How to Remove & Wrap Your Exhaust Manifold with DEI Titanium Wrap | Supercharging the MX5 Miata Ep16
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- In this Episode I'm wrapping the exhaust manifold / headers of my 2001 Mazda MX5 with DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap in an attempt to minimise engine bay temperatures. This is especially important in my case as I intend to mount the MP45 Mini Cooper S Supercharger on the 'hot side' of the engine, directly above the exhaust manifold. If this exhaust wrap can reduce the amount of heat getting to the supercharger it will be beneficial for many reasons (cooler operating temps, lower IATs etc). To get this job done this I need to remove the exhaust manifold from the car, hack off some unwanted brackets, wrap the pipes then secure it in place with some stainless steel zip ties. After this is done it's just a case of re installation and away we go.
🚨 BUDGET TRACKER 🚨
DEI WRAP 2X15FT ROLLS - £35.96
STAINLESS STEEL ZIP TIES - £3.50
EPISODE TOTAL - £39.46
RUNNING TOTAL - £1044.42
The car in this video is my 2001 Mazda MX5 - the latest Fast Rust project car. Fun & reliable daily driver is my goal for this iconic sports car. If you want to follow along with my 'Miata Journey’, check out this playlist: • Mazda MX5 / MIATA - ...
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► Background Beat : Instrumental produced by Chuki / chukimusic - Авто та транспорт
Can’t believe I’ve only just found this channel! Loving the content mate, subbed! 👍🏻
Cheers. Welcome along!
I generally avoid exhaust wrap personally. Most wraps are absorbant and can retain water causing corrosion. The wrap also containing heat without it being able to dissipate it evenly could also over heat the exhaust and cause premature failures.
That being said it definitely does its job to retain heat and reduce under bonnet temps.
I think the general consensus is to ceramic coat exhausts now.
I bought a TDR heat blanket which sort of just lays on top and reduces under bonnet temps etc, but not so much keeps the heat within the exhaust
I don't disagree, but wrap was far cheaper than all other options (including the ones you mention) hence the decision. I will see how it performs in the short term and update if there are any issues.
@@FastRust I suppose yeah. Don't get me wrong it works very well for it's intended purpose. I think with the fact it's an mx5 you may not put a whole too much heat into the manifold to cause the cracking etc from heat wrap
Thank you for the video, I was thinking of buying some exhaust wrap. Do you think 30 feet is just enough or i'm better off buying one 50 feet roll ?
If it's an MX5 manifold like mine you will get away with 30ft. However, if it's any longer go 50, it's surprising how fast it disappears!
Another great vid James! Cheers. How's the 221? have you had a remote tune or are you still running on the base map + auto tune?
Cheers! 221 working fine but is still on the basemap. I ended up disabling the auto tune on advice from ME (not ideal on a basemap apparently), and had to mildly tinker with the VE table to get it through MOT. Not ideal tbh but the car is off the road now whilst I get the charger on. As soon as it's ready to go again I'll get a remote tune done.
@@FastRust ah good to know, my 221 should be going back in this weekend. 🤞
Nice one. What setup are you running?
@@FastRust well coincidently, pretty much a carbon copy of your build. 😁
However I have gone for the Ed kellet diy induction kit.
good job! btw, what happened to the link you mentioned about tightening the ss hose clips?
Thanks. Not filmed it yet 🙄 Will get round to it soon.
@@FastRust another question.
Why didn't you just apply copper RTV instead of reusing the gasket?
Copper rtv with no gasket will not form a durable seal between an exhaust manifold and cylinder head. It can work sometimes if smeared on an old gasket but I'd only ever use it as a temporary fix.
Gasket were fine by the way. All sealed back up perfectly 👍🏻
Hi mate, love the build, im doing the same with my headers but im having troubles with the downpipe bolts, i can get two easy but the one who is the nearest of the wheel i don’t have the space to unbolt it, (i was trying from under the car and the wheel arch) how did you remove it?
That's the worst one. I managed it using a long ratchet extension with one of those 'UJ' style adaptors on the end. The other method is to get it with a spanner through the wheel arch.
@@FastRust thanks mate this weekend i will win my fight with that bolt 😂
Good luck. I have a little propane blowtorch I use if something is really stubborn. Get it glowing, crash cool it with water then try again. Saved my ass a few times.
10:18
Where is the link?
4:57
Will one broken stud really give problems?
Not finished that video yet, sorry. Yes 1 broken stud will cause an exhaust leak, trust me!