As always, awesome video! One thing to keep im mind with the 2-lock (or3-lock) carabiners is, to always check, if it's really closed. Especially outside, dust can prevent the lock from turning properly, turning your locking-carabiner into a simple "snap"-carabiner. Happened to me twice with my belaying carabiner, caught the mistake during partnercheck, but the same happened to a friend, and they only noticed it after the climb...
Love the carabiner videos you guys put out. This one is like the spiritual (and maybe literal) successor to the episode on DMM ‘biners, where Matt says he doesn’t believe belay specific carabiners are necessary on the rack.
Just because the wikipedia article doesn't point it out fully: The literal translation of "Halbmastwurfsicherung" is indeed "half clove hitch belay", but the knot used is actually the munter hitch, which in itself is known as the "Halbmastwurf" (literally "half clove hitch") in german.
I still use HMS to belay on multipitch routes as regular tubers won't bite if the rope pulls down instead of up (climber falling before the first bolt/cam). Also I only do multipitch with a pair of ropes (so I can retreat the full length at once if I need to) and the Smart Alpin is kinda akward to use.
Camp used to make the worst HMSs. They got stuck a lot, dirt would catch in the open spaces. Even screwing in the gate felt like something was wrong with it. I still have one, but I leave it home. I havent seen these before, they look way better.
Great new products and videos as always, but, it would be nice to clarify that for any belay device, such an ATC, where the rope goes in the binner, it's very important to use HMS locking carabiners, instead of the D shape ones, becouse they have that wider profile and shape so the rope can run smoothly. Especially when it comes to rappelling. greetings from Argentina
8:06 The Nimbus does not use a round-stock construction because of the strength! Odd that this claim would be made when other well-known HMS biners with I-beam construction have essentially the same strength ratings. Further, the CAMP orange HMS corelock and the belay lock have the same construction from earlier in the video, yet no similar comment was made... The real reason for this construction is FRICTION! A round-stock biner has way less friction than an I-beam biner, especially once the rope is weighted. In fact, the Nimbus was made specifically to fill the niche that was left open by the discontinuation of the original round-stock Petzl Attahce. It is mean to belay with, rappel with, throw a munter on, etc... Any round-stock biner is meant to have a rope running over it (I call these "action carabiners"). I-beam biners are not meant to have a rope running over them (unless that is required for a particular reason, e.g. heavier climber), but are great for holding secure hitches (I call these "connector carabiners"). The currently popular Petzl Attache HMS I-beam biners are great for clove hitching to the anchor, since it has this high-friction geometry. However they are not great for belaying with e.g. a plaquette device, simply because the friction is too high; this is not what they are designed for. This is why the OG round-stock Attache's can go for $$$ on Mountain Project, and why some peolpe wonder why Petzl stopped producing them. The Nimbus was a response to this loss (though of course many other similar biners do exist). Other than being sized similarly to the original Petzl Attache, it's design is no different than the other CAMP corelock HMS solid stock biners.
I do love the old Camp carabiner line - Orbit, Photon lock but the update has spoiled the grip of the lock. What was before the best carabiners for use in gloves and winter conditions has become an indoor and summer use only as the new ones are much less grippy. And there's a whole lot other brands for that - Petzl, CT. Too sad, maybe they'll change their mind and luckily I've made a stock of old ones.
As a belaying carabineer, what do you think of the twin gate locking mechanism from grivel? I use one for sports climbing and once you get the hang of it it feels so good to use. Do you feel it's as safe for outdoor climbing?
So far i have the grivel clepsydra twingate in size L & they're fantastic i use mine for keeping my keys 🔑 it's always fastened to a belt loop on my jeans......more recently I've got the ocun eagle in both screwgate & triple autolock (the triple autolock is more fidgety because it requires pulling upwards before twisting to open otherwise it seems like a logical & safer step up from the screwgate) I've not yet tried any of these camp carabiners because there's only a few types available from my local shop
I only use skrewgate karabiners because you can clip the rope with one hand. Especialy when you build up an belay. Biner in the bolt rope in the biner all with one hand. Next is the one hand Clive hitch. This is not possible with an autolock biner.
Two and Three stage locking is always better if a little more "fiddly". The screw gate rolls down against a climbing surface or other ropes and unlocks. The situation is called ROLL-OUT DETACHMENT.
Only takes one time in Red Rocks asking a large group which has sat on a line for hours about the queue, and them be polite enough to let you in to relead on their gear, only to find magnetrons on rope side which you spend five minutes fighting with since you refused to personal in or grab the anchor for pride of the onsight and neglected to bring any other gear with because what is the worst that can happen... that you realize autolockers don’t give you a choice like screwgates.
Has anyone had a screwgate biner seize up because of grit or dirt in the system. had it happen guiding and had to cut the rope out of the system. Very embarrassing.
Carry a little leatherman and use pliers to open them up. Have had it happen a few times when biners freeze shut ice or alpine climbing. Also works for grit
ALMOST nailed the pronunciation on Halbmastwurfsicherung ;)
Almost 10%😅 lg
Haha :D, the end especially
He started off well and got my hopes up, but then it took a sharp turn :D
...and yet we're not talking about dougi-whats-athing? Seriously :)
.. Sheeerung...
As always, awesome video! One thing to keep im mind with the 2-lock (or3-lock) carabiners is, to always check, if it's really closed. Especially outside, dust can prevent the lock from turning properly, turning your locking-carabiner into a simple "snap"-carabiner. Happened to me twice with my belaying carabiner, caught the mistake during partnercheck, but the same happened to a friend, and they only noticed it after the climb...
Love the carabiner videos you guys put out. This one is like the spiritual (and maybe literal) successor to the episode on DMM ‘biners, where Matt says he doesn’t believe belay specific carabiners are necessary on the rack.
Just because the wikipedia article doesn't point it out fully: The literal translation of "Halbmastwurfsicherung" is indeed "half clove hitch belay", but the knot used is actually the munter hitch, which in itself is known as the "Halbmastwurf" (literally "half clove hitch") in german.
0:58 if that snapgate carabiner was normal, we'd all be dead.
EpicTV borrowing a page from Justbombergear
You didn't mention oval carabiners, but they still exist, and can be better than standard carabiners used with some ascenders or pulleys.
Matt, couch & straight to the point.
Today I learned you can use your leg loops for biners. Huh. Cheers Matt!
Love the detailed analysis. Thanks and keep up the good work, Matt!
I still use HMS to belay on multipitch routes as regular tubers won't bite if the rope pulls down instead of up (climber falling before the first bolt/cam). Also I only do multipitch with a pair of ropes (so I can retreat the full length at once if I need to) and the Smart Alpin is kinda akward to use.
Camp used to make the worst HMSs. They got stuck a lot, dirt would catch in the open spaces. Even screwing in the gate felt like something was wrong with it. I still have one, but I leave it home. I havent seen these before, they look way better.
Great new products and videos as always, but, it would be nice to clarify that for any belay device, such an ATC, where the rope goes in the binner, it's very important to use HMS locking carabiners, instead of the D shape ones, becouse they have that wider profile and shape so the rope can run smoothly. Especially when it comes to rappelling. greetings from Argentina
6:07 with the dmm belaymaster or the mammut smart hms you can use it as a regular carabiner when not belaying
I'm not a climber nor an outdoor person but I love these things.
Perhaps it is time to become one. There is enough room for anyone.
8:06 The Nimbus does not use a round-stock construction because of the strength! Odd that this claim would be made when other well-known HMS biners with I-beam construction have essentially the same strength ratings. Further, the CAMP orange HMS corelock and the belay lock have the same construction from earlier in the video, yet no similar comment was made... The real reason for this construction is FRICTION! A round-stock biner has way less friction than an I-beam biner, especially once the rope is weighted. In fact, the Nimbus was made specifically to fill the niche that was left open by the discontinuation of the original round-stock Petzl Attahce. It is mean to belay with, rappel with, throw a munter on, etc...
Any round-stock biner is meant to have a rope running over it (I call these "action carabiners"). I-beam biners are not meant to have a rope running over them (unless that is required for a particular reason, e.g. heavier climber), but are great for holding secure hitches (I call these "connector carabiners").
The currently popular Petzl Attache HMS I-beam biners are great for clove hitching to the anchor, since it has this high-friction geometry. However they are not great for belaying with e.g. a plaquette device, simply because the friction is too high; this is not what they are designed for. This is why the OG round-stock Attache's can go for $$$ on Mountain Project, and why some peolpe wonder why Petzl stopped producing them. The Nimbus was a response to this loss (though of course many other similar biners do exist). Other than being sized similarly to the original Petzl Attache, it's design is no different than the other CAMP corelock HMS solid stock biners.
Great promotional video for camp 👍
Just in time as I was researching to start racking up gear for outdoor climbing!
I do love the old Camp carabiner line - Orbit, Photon lock but the update has spoiled the grip of the lock. What was before the best carabiners for use in gloves and winter conditions has become an indoor and summer use only as the new ones are much less grippy. And there's a whole lot other brands for that - Petzl, CT. Too sad, maybe they'll change their mind and luckily I've made a stock of old ones.
As a belaying carabineer, what do you think of the twin gate locking mechanism from grivel?
I use one for sports climbing and once you get the hang of it it feels so good to use.
Do you feel it's as safe for outdoor climbing?
So far i have the grivel clepsydra twingate in size L & they're fantastic i use mine for keeping my keys 🔑 it's always fastened to a belt loop on my jeans......more recently I've got the ocun eagle in both screwgate & triple autolock (the triple autolock is more fidgety because it requires pulling upwards before twisting to open otherwise it seems like a logical & safer step up from the screwgate) I've not yet tried any of these camp carabiners because there's only a few types available from my local shop
I only use skrewgate karabiners because you can clip the rope with one hand. Especialy when you build up an belay. Biner in the bolt rope in the biner all with one hand. Next is the one hand Clive hitch. This is not possible with an autolock biner.
Two and Three stage locking is always better if a little more "fiddly". The screw gate rolls down against a climbing surface or other ropes and unlocks. The situation is called ROLL-OUT DETACHMENT.
Wouldn't you still be able to use the belay specific HMS binner as a master point if you clip it to a sling anchor?
Only takes one time in Red Rocks asking a large group which has sat on a line for hours about the queue, and them be polite enough to let you in to relead on their gear, only to find magnetrons on rope side which you spend five minutes fighting with since you refused to personal in or grab the anchor for pride of the onsight and neglected to bring any other gear with because what is the worst that can happen... that you realize autolockers don’t give you a choice like screwgates.
Sicherung 😂😂😂. Sry but the pronunciation was absolutely amazing.
Did that wire gate not close properly?
His thumb was in the way it looks like.
huh... I always thought HMS stood for "hemispherical". Shows what I know.
Do-ji-whatsit definitely using that.
Whipping with biners clipped to the back of your leg loops is a great way to suffer.
you shouldn't be whipping in the alpine though....
Wow! Completely forgot about climbing daily haven't watched it in ages. The longer format is just insane!
Who has time to watch these every day?
Has anyone had a screwgate biner seize up because of grit or dirt in the system. had it happen guiding and had to cut the rope out of the system. Very embarrassing.
Carry a little leatherman and use pliers to open them up. Have had it happen a few times when biners freeze shut ice or alpine climbing. Also works for grit
👌
Get Ondra and Magnus to do a video together
You were already on the google translation page and couldn't take LITERALLY one second to press the listen button for the german pronunciation???
Relax bro nothing in the world changes if he pronounces that correctly or not
Here is a link for better gemran pronunciation: ua-cam.com/video/uQGYnTF4c34/v-deo.html
I don't like my life depending on a bend pice of Aluminium made in China
I guess you were hibernated somewhere for last 20 years? China has all technologies and can produce quality stuff.
HMS Her Majesty SERVICE ,an you knew what it meant come on ur a Brit
First