Complete Guide to Carabiners - Shapes, Styles & How they Fail | Ep.2
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 чер 2024
- Detailed Class on Carabiners. You will learn why there are so many different Shapes / Sizes & Styles of the Carabiners. How to choose & use them Safely and all the ways a Carabiner could Fail on loads lower than what they are rated for (kN on the spine of the Carabiner) and how to avoid that.
⏩ NEXT:
• Slings vs Lanyards vs ...
⏪ PREVIOUS:
• Become a Belayer I can...
🔗 FULL PLAYLIST:
• Belay Masterclass
00:00 Intro
00:44 Aluminium Alloy
01:34 Steel
01:54 Hot-Forged
02:48 Shapes - Oval vs D
03:55 Shapes - HMS (Pear)
05:08 Shapes - Belay carabiners
06:52 Shapes - QuickLink
07:43 Gate - Non-Locking
08:59 Gate - How to Correctly use 2 non-locking carabiners?
10:22 Gate - Screw gate
11:17 Gate - Auto-Locking
13:24 Size - Is smaller better?
14:57 Strength - What matters in real world?
18:08 Strength - Can you break Cross-Loaded carabiner?
19:44 Strength - Nose Hook - Dangerous!
20:59 Strength - Carabiner bent over the edge
22:10 Strength - Triload
24:08 When to Retire your carabiner?
25:43 Microfractures - Can you Drop your carabiner?
27:20 Bonus question
� Choosing Guide for Beginners
For bolted single pitch climbing:
1x Belay Device Carabiner:
Mammut Bionic Cross Lock - bit.ly/3AagrPT
Mammut Smart HMS - bit.ly/3AdgcmS
Black Diamond Grid Lock
EDELRID HMS Bulletproof
1-2x small size, D shape, autolocker or screw gate for Tether / Lanyard or other use cases (having multifunctional carabiners is always handy):
Nordwand Micro Lock: bit.ly/37m9zSQ
The fastests screw gate I've ever tried, but most of them work fine, so choose whatever is pretty to you.
For bolted multipitches you might want to add:
2x small, D shape screw gate for connecting anchor to bolts:
Nordwand Micro Lock: bit.ly/37m9zSQ
1x bigger, screw or autolocker for Master point:
Workhorse HMS: bit.ly/3jmlNRh
* Above links might be affiliate and give me small benefit.
❤ If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me
hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and allows me to do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben
❤ Special Thanks For Mammut for helping me to create this episode!
� Additional resources:
Corrosion in Climbing Carabiners rockclimbingcompany.blogspot....
Forces at work in a real fall
www.petzl.com/BE/en/Sport/For...
Black Diamond QC LAB: WEAKNESS OF NOSE-HOOKED CARABINERS
www.blackdiamondequipment.com...
DMM Nose Hooked tests
dmmwales.com/knowledge/may-20... - Спорт
Thanks to multiple comments - Little correction: Heat Treated Aluminium that is used in Climbing 7000 series T6 is actually much more brittle than Steel (Opposite of what I said in the video).
However I still wouldn't panic about Microfractures - based on how rare we see a broken carabiner or old carabiner breaking under its Ratings.
2:18
I have exactly the same mammut
To open a three-stroke carabiner with one hand, you need to place and press your little finger on the bottom of the carabiner, and your thumb, middle and ring fingers on the gate, which you can lift and turn
Yes, the heat treatment will induce internal stress in the aluminium which makes it more brittle. But it also makes it stronger (some types of tempered aluminium are stronger than mild steel). I would worry more about microfractures with aluminium because no aluminium can undergo an infinite amount of cycling loading as (stainless) steel can (if properly overdimensioned). Nevertheless you would probably not be able to do this many cyclic loads in your entire lifetime. Your advice to listen to the manufacturer is probably the best advice anyone could give.
Thanks for the update. I think you can and should pin your comment to the top!
the microfractures myth is known to go back to titanium carabiners which could have such an issue. But they are completely off the table by now. Great video!
Yes, and 7000 series T6 will corrode too whereas 6061-T6 will not. Microfractures will eventually happen because aluminum does not have a load below which fatigue will not occurr. Any climbing carabiner will have a load rating of 2x the rope to prevent fatigue from happening in the average climber's lifetime. This all assumes normal load direction. Bending loads will cause a failure at a fraction of the capacity.
I'm an engineer, so a little bit about microfractures - your friend tested it with static load - i.e. he pulled until it broke. There's something called dynamic load, which is basically a fancy term for when the load changes over time (for example, you load the carabiner, then unload, then load, then unload, which is what happens to every carabiner in normal use). When something goes through many load-unload cycles, it can break below it's rated load. I.e. if something is rated at 20 kN, and you load and unload it repeatedly at 15 kN, at one point it might break. That's called material fatigue. It is theorized that these load fluctuations expand the microfractures to the point of breaking.
It especially affects aluminum. Steel can be designed for infinite life under dynamic load, but aluminum has no infinite fatigue limit.
So, microfractures will not affect a carabiner in static load scenario, but it might affect the amount of load-unload cycles it can take before it breaks.
But whether dropping the carabiner on the ground actually does anything to the microfractures or whether you can introduce enough load-unload cycles to the carabiner during normal use to break it (in machine design, engineers usually talk about hundreds of thousands of cycles), I don't know. But probably not.
We have always used two rotated steel binas with bungy jumping... does anyone recommend alloy instead and why?
That is true.
Also Al alloys would be slightly more brittle than any steel.
But a proper mechanical metallurgy study would have to be performed. I wonder if the manufacturer did it.
Fatigue is definitely a bigger issue than micro-fractures. I'm a bit skeptical they occur on such low energy impacts. All can be tested.
There's also the fact that steel can be hardened which makes it stronger but more brittle and rope wear on steel would happen much more slowly than on aluminum. So, there's a lot to consider when it comes to metals.
Almost 30 years ago, I excecuted a similar experiment as the above, after throwing aluminium alloy carabiners against a cement wall, for about 80 times. Then compared their breaking strength with same type ones, in unused condition. The result as I remember, was a reduction of strength around 15-17%.@@paulojacobsilva3018
Wöhler curve for Al alloy says that when falling with 6 kN (i.e. very hard, unusual fall - approx. 315 MPa used), it survives 10^5=100 000 cycles. So you would have to hard fall hundred thousand times to fail the carabiner due to fatigue. I would say, that your spine breaks first
Dude, you deserve a lot of compliments for what you are doing with this channel. The way you explain is phenomenally clear and pleasant to follow, even if you aren't an English native speaker. Keep up with this amazing, educational work!
From a german : This was probaly one of the best pronouciations of a hard german word ive heard from an english speaker. Also i just learned that hms means something german😂
This answers every question I did and did not have about carabiners. Great amount of detail and lovely to see test results used as a source of information rather than some pass-me-down knowledge. Keep up the good work!
Quick tip for the screw gates from an industrial climber: do not screw lock it under load. The screw can easily get stuck (just like when you have sand in there). If you do get it stuck, put the carabiner under load and try unscrewing then. Usually does the trick.
More of a concern with older carabiners and steel ones, no? I've always thought the ones that have some wiggle when locked up (click click when you test it) are less prone to seizing up like this. Though it's definitely still something to keep in mind.
@@joshuacilliers2723 exactly. In every screw gate i've ever seen the screwing bit is only ever threaded to the gate itself and doesn't really make contact with the nose.
As alpine climber, I do want to carry a quick link on my harness. It comes in smaller and lighter shapes than the one shown. The advantages are the the weight, cost and lockability of the quick link compared to a normal carabiner. Also, the HMS (munter hitch) is of a much greater importance in the alpine environment. You save time and potentially the weight of the belay device (I do still bring the MegaJul or plate). Make sure to always keep the strands in parallel to avoid twisting of the rope due to the HMS.
Ben, I feel like this course is missing one really critical video: How do you actually belay?!
What’s the ideal (or really just your) technique for top rope, sport and lead?
Love the channel dude, keep it up.
Hey, thank you so much for your support, I'm working on actual belaying videos, I have them filmed, but I want to launch few important videos about belay devices first and then will jump into action, so coming really soon
Well, this is one of the greatest UA-cam classes on Climbing, I have ever seen! Carry on with what you're doing, it's amazing! Looking forward to the next videos! Would love to see a complete class/playlist for complete beginners covering all the essentials all the way up to "I'm autonomously going to pack what I need and head on a sport climbing trip with my buddy" - to show to newbies in advance real life beginner courses.
I never climbed in my life, yet I spend last 2h watching you. Amazing, I want lose weigth and start climbing.
I have been climbing for a very long time (decades actually). And over that time I have come to be aware of most of this. But it is very nice to see it all in one place and very well explained. Thank you! Good job! I will forward it to one of my old friends. I think he'll appreciate it too.
Your giving the next generation of new climbers a huge help in understanding the real basics in gear use that is not taught in many classes ! Your clear and informative,thanks also to sponsor’s! Back in my day most of this was information was not talked about , just trial and error! Thanks for your time I don’t climb anymore but I do take the grandkids to the climbing gym so they can explore a great activity I in joyed!
I needed this video in the 80's :-) Just wanted to say this series is amazing, the best content on the web. Educational, fun to watch, great content,...everyone who's considering taking up climbing - and some 'belayers' here at the local gym - should watch your channel!
This is great, thank you so much.
Being a new top-rope climber, edging towards lead climbing, it is extremely nice to know what you can expect and how you can trust the equipment, which is half the battle for me. :-)
Slow and steady is the best - also Climbing with more experienced people and or take a course - helps a lot
man this is exactly what I was looking for. thanks so much for this series. can't wait for the next episodes. will definitely donate to you in some way.
one carabiner related detail you forgot to mention - always clip your screwgate with gate facing down, esp when its left unattended(ie when building your anchor or for top-rope masterpoint) so when jiggled it closes itself under gravity, not opens.
It really works - even if you forget to close the gate it will screw itself tight after some time
It's also easier to clip the rope / sling to upside down carabiner ;)
Holy wow, this is fantastic! Can't wait for the rest of the series. The balance between entertainment, storytelling, and technical information is top notch. Kudos, Ben
Hey guys, just wanted to add a note about microfractures. The way I understood it from the materials science & metallurgy classes from my mechanical engineering program, is that once a microfracture is present, it grows under time as a consequence of experiencing fatigue. Presumably, the engineers working for these rock climbing companies are responsible for fatigue testing these carabiners, and have determined that you should retire your carabiners after dropping them on solid surfaces as a result of their fatigue testing.
Basically the more times you load the carabiners after a microfracture is present (e.g. from taking lead falls), the more the microfracture grows. This is why those carabiners that his friend Rian tested didn't show abnormal signs of failure immediately after his drop tests. However, given a half year to a year of use, then he would probably see failure from testing those same carabiners at lower levels of loading. It could take one month, one year, or one decade, but you can rest assured that a dropped carabiner (with a microfracture) will fail at much lower load levels that an intact carabiner.
TL DR: It's safer to retire your carabiners after dropping them because of potential microfractures that may be present. The dropped carabiners won't fail immediately after, but they'll assuredly fail at lower load levels in the distant future.
Stay safe guys
Thanks for sharing, super interesting...
What loads do you think are required to grow microcracture? We rarely load carabiners anywhere close to what might stress them to much....
Do you know any testing done to demonstrate your theory?
@@HardIsEasy You're welcome! I don't know of any fatigue testing data on these carabiners-- I wish the climbing companies would make some of those readily available to the public. They'd be interesting to review.
I would wager a guess that a microfracture would grow at loads roughly a 1/3 of the material's ultimate tensile strength. As far as I know, the engineers for these climbing companies are required to run fatigue tests with cyclic loading at a much lower strength than the material's tensile strength to simulate lead falls. I'd suppose they test at a big simulated load fall of around 4 kN, but they'd also test a bit higher to account for a factor of safety. They'd run the cyclic loading on both the minor and major axes of the carabiners. I'm guessing they determined that carabiners with microfractures should be retired based on the strength rating of the biner's minor axis, but that's just a guess.
I theory, it wouldn't be safe to use dropped carabiners for very long if you suspect they have experienced heavy impact. Especially if you throw them into the granite on top of Yosemite :-). The bigger the microfractures present, the more vulnerable the carabiner.
Btw, I love your videos! Thank you for putting in so much love and care into them. I've learn a lot in each episode! And the Fear of Falling episodes are super inspiring and relatable. Made a humble student donation to show my support. Keep up the excellent work!
@@HardIsEasy Also, I reviewed my metallurgy textbook's sections about environmental stresses that also cause crack propagation, like from corrosion (stress corrosion cracking) as mentioned in your videos. Like you said, if the carabiners get salty water on them, then you should wash them off-- because corrosion will cause the microfractures to propagate from the tips of the microfractures. In addition, you should also wash the carabiners off if they ever get dirty or gunky outside because of additional chemical reactions that might occur from the different elements present in the gunk and aluminum alloy, especially if you're climbing when it's hot outside.
These are super careful precautions, but I guess it only takes 1 failed carabiner to ruin your climbing day/life. ;-)
This course is awesome. I consider myself a relatively experienced climber, but these videos go into tons of detail and I find myself learning tons! So thanks for the great content and information!
Incredible series, not been able to find this level of detail all in the same place anywhere else!
DMM rhino carabiner is by far my favorite for preventing cross loading. Just has a little horn to prevent a gri gri from slipping around but doesn’t involve messing with the little spring clip mechanisms. Quick, effective, and sturdy!
Thank you so much for this channel. This is just 10 times clearer than any other climbing video I've seen or book I've read!
Dude. You seem totally chill and cool. Plus caring about the people.
Thanks for making all these masterclasses, I’ve just been getting into sport climbing more and after watching a lot of your videos I feel like I have the knowledge to be much more aware of mine and others safety out on the crag!
So much information packed in here with straightforward explanations and demonstrations. Answering the "why" of lots of these features will allow people to make better decisions for themselves in the future. Thanks so much.
Looking forward to watch next episodes!! Great work!
This video was super good. Really enjoyed getting to know the different reasons for the carabiner shapes in more depth. Thanks for the quality content!
I have been climbing for 50 years and this is some of the best information I have ever seen. Thank you. Well done!
Thank you so much for this series! Very useful and I am sure you will save a couple of lives by this.
Great content as always! I think these videos are amazing for a lot of climbers of varying experience and I always direct people I have done climbing courses for to your videos for tons of extra but useful info.
Absolute best instructional and informational video on the subject anywhere! Thanks for all your effort and expertise!
I love this type of videos, very well explained and much detailed. Good job, Ben, can't wait for next informations and experiments!
Wow I just started this series and I'm already obsessed! Learning so much.
Great video… after 10 years of doing industrial rope access and now beginning my journey into climbing, I learnt something new about krabs.
amazingly thorough and helpful. this is a great primer for all climbers.
Thank you for these super awesome videos! Scared me a bit when i saw the bad examples in the beginning and realise how grateful i am of this free education.
This is really good. So many questions answered.. So many things i would never think of.. Ill start the basic climbing course in September where ill probably learn all of this, but until that i feel i can climb safer after this video
Great production value. Exactly as much as is needed. Love it
This series is gonna be awesome. As always: Really nice produced! Im looking forward to the next episode!
Thanks, next episode on Wed ;)
Love you're videos. Are very useful to have someone who can explain how climbing works
Love these videos! Such good information and very well explained. Thanks for making these and helping spread the knowledge man!
amazing content man.
I've been climbing for a few years and I find the whole gear environment so hard to navigate.
It's so difficult to find people who know what they're talking about and it often feels like everyone has a different take on everything.
As I often say, there seems to be as many theory about what's the right gear or belaying techniques to use as there are rock climbers.
This video series seems to be very well done and I get a feeling that you've got an engineering background. You explain the "why" behind stuff and that makes stuff so much easier to remember and make sense of.
The fact is that there are many right ways to do things in climbing and lots of arguments between experts... which sometimes lead to safer solutions, but sometimes also ego clashes.
What I wish that people understand the basics enough to be able to make safety judgments them selves
Thanks for this video. Straight forward, very informative & fun to watch. I will definitely share it with my climbing community, and my peers at work.
This was so great! Thank you so much for all the work you put into making this video. Looking forward to future videos!
Can’t think you enough for these videos man. Really educational for a newbie
I really appreciate your efforts to make such great and informative videos. It's always a pleasure to donate to such content maker. Thank you!
Great content. Very thorough indeed. I'd just point out that hot forging (@ 2:20 ~ ) isn't just about giving shape to a piece of metal, more important than shaping is that forging produces a very refined microstructure which contributes very much to attain those UIAA mechanical properties with minimal cross section. E.g. a machined (nobody actually does this ok, just for the sake of the argument) carabiner with the same alloy and exact same dimensions should fail at much lower levels than the forged one.
Well without hot forging you would have to have heavier carabiner to be able to sell them for climbing... ;)
Thank you so much for starting this series. UA-cam needs more climbing safety videos!
Yo man, u really helped me to work more safely, I rig motors for luminar/sound/video structure for events n stuff like this , where the standard are high in security already but all your little tips aid me to be a guy that my team tend to lean on cause I always have your decisive information to ensure safer ways to make our day or just have a topic to discuss on pause n that is why I love your Chanel n all usefull info that It offers :)
Thank you for this video series! This video was super informative. I'll be watching every episode that comes out! (:
Little correction: the forging process is done not because of the shape or design you want to achieve (the same shape you could achieve also with casting, for example), but in order to improve the microstructure of the metal, the grain flow and as a result to increase the strength and fatigue resistance of the component.
Great, comprehensive video! Thank you for your effort to demystify the range of carabiner types. I'll be sharing this course/channel with my climbing partners.
This is really well done. Thank you for this outstanding course. I will be using it to deepen my children's understanding of climbing safely.
Took a break from climbing and decided to go through basics again. Glad I did, as I'm learning things I wasn't fully aware of. Thank you for making this video series! Hopefully, everyone can set their egos down, continue learning, and climb safer.
You are a great communicator! Your channel is undoubtedly one of the best in its field.
Incredibly helpful video! And that goes for all of yours!
You’re making some really fantastic videos and I appreciate so much what you’re doing. Keep up the great work!
One of the best Chanel to educate basics about climbing , thanks .
Thanks for all these videos dude. Really helping me demystify everything that goes into rope climbing! I started bouldering half a year ago but really want to get outside and climb high stuff with some cool views!
Very clear and complete ! Thank for that, I already wait the other videos with excitement
coming in few days
Excellent and highly technical. You are helping a lots of people like me through these video!
This is gold! Thank you for all the work that went into these videos!
I love this series. thank you for putting all this together
You are most likely saving countless lives... thank you!
This was way more educational than I expected. Good Video!
A year after posting, and with 17 years of trusting my life to these things, I learned a lot. Thank you.
Such a great video. Thanks for starting this series!
Been going through and freshening up on your master classes. Thank you again!
Definitely earned my subscription. This is such a well made and informative video. Thank you for your efforts, it really helps new climbers like me!!
Great video! So excited for more!
Great video with clear and useful information. Thanks!
The first episode of the series got me through my belay class like a boss good looks 💪🏾
Complete new guy and this is amazing info. Thanks brother
Very nicely done. Thorough and competent.
Loving your videos, have learned A LOT👍. Awesome series!
Thank you for doing these videos! I really enjoyed the learning to fall series.
So many kinds of carabiners. Nice to see such a detailed comparison.
Man....we really appreciate!! Sending love and best wishes from Costa Rica!!
Incredibly helpful and informative. Thank you!
Thanks for making these videos! I’ve climbed off and on for many years. As a result, I’ve taken a number of indoor and outdoor beginner’s classes. Though I’ve quite enjoyed climbing, I’ve not made time to progress past the top roping stage. Your videos are motivating me to start again and develop Sport climbing skills.
Give it a try, with suitable trained company.
Great job as always. Solid info and a professional presentation. Keep it up!
Thanks for the great video 😀... The triload thing where the carabiner breaks earlier on the wide side is, in my opinion, based on the much higher leverage which is created
I have no climbing friends yet (started my beginners course last week) but I sure will be recommending your channel whenever I can! This is gold!! 😀 especially when you are new to the sport and you have to go and buy your own gear and remember all the names of techniques and knots and devices and you are massively overwhelmed 🤣
I'm getting addicted already.. whoops 🤭
Great video, looking forward to the rest of the series. Thank you for producing such quality content, will be happy to support you
Thank You so much
This was a brilliant video. I’ve only recently started climbing and it was super useful. You explain things really well! Subscribed!
This is the best video ever. Many thanks to share your knowledge. A warm hug from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
thank you. informative, precise, and easy for me to understand.
FASCINATING. I have no idea how I ended up here, but I'm glad I did.
Thank u so much for this episodes!!! They were necessary!! 👏💪🏽😍
Amazingly detailed video and it answered all my questions and more. :D Thank you
Great educational content. I really like how calm an collected you present all the information.
Thank you so much for this series! Really enjoyed the video 👏💪
Thank you Ben, another superb, informative video! 😊
Really good and informative video! Thanks for sharing!
Incredible quality video and really clear explanations. Keep up the great work. I would just mention that anyone who wishes to climb should still take a proper course in situ.
Looking forward to this series!
wow, your channel is great! so clear and fun to watch
you answered every question I was thinking about, thank you so much
This video was amazing my friend. Thank you so much !!!
I've enjoyed a lot of your other videos, but this is a really excellent tutorial series! I've just subscribed to the Patreon to support it. Keep up the great work!
Ahh thank you for supporting - super helpful!