A Day Of Route Setting
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- Опубліковано 20 чер 2021
- The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/emilabrahamsson12201
In this episode we take a few steps away from regular try-hard climbing and instead focus on what a day of route setting looks like. I set two boulders with a "coordination style" theme to them, and we go into the process of how these two climbs were set.
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Heyo everybody!
I know it's been a while since the last video, I would love to make more but I've been keeping busy with other stuff for the past few weeks and now I'm off to Innsbruck for the WC. After that, believe you me, there'll be a ton of good stuff coming up!
On the other hand, this'll be a great week for climbing UA-cam. Mellow is dropping ROTSW tomorrrow AND there'll be streams of the comps. I'm psyched as hell for all of it :-)
Psyched with you man! Have a good one!
Great video Emil. Thanks for sharing.
I was wondering few things regarding the route setting process.
Do you ever come to the gym with a boulder in mind for that day for the specific wall/angle you will do routesetting?
Do you compare outdoor grades and moves with indoor? Or this is only when you do projects?
How would you grade the boulders indoor compared to outdoor, how much of a difference would you say there is? Thank you.
ROTSW is dropping today I think! 21/06 no?
@@DanielChavez-mt7xq hot diggity dang you're right!
A.M + american time from dwoods story got me confused. Today it is!
@@EmilAbrahamsson just two hours left if I've done my timezone maths right ;)
Another well put together video Emil. Nice shots with the camera...I can learn from this 😀🤙
Good luck in innsbruck, let's hope for some stacks for you 😎
Ahh yes, waking up and immediately looking at your fingertips :) the life of a boulderer…
Fucking A
Seamless transistion into the Skillshare ad haha
0:57 probably the greatest transition move Emil has set
Good to see you here! Sorry to hear about the cancelled videos, that was truly a bummer.
@@EmilAbrahamsson omg Emil watches my videos? :D UA-cam is tough but we chalk up and climb on!
I mentioned this on Eric’s video too, but routesetting videos are always some of my favorites. Love seeing the thought process that goes into creating routes.
P.S. Good luck at Innsbruck! I’ll be rooting for you from here. :)
Those green holds are crispppp :)
Fellow route setter here. You have been a huge inspiration for me! Started climbing two years ago and between my community here and you and Eric, the support and inspiration got me my dream job. Just wanted to let you know your psych and enthusiasm for the sport is a giant part of what pushed me to go for this so hard! Also Tokyo Remora's are the best forerunning shoe, good taste. Keep being awesome!
It seems you sort of think about this video as something of a throwaway or not your main content, probably because it's the bread and button of your life, but I would love to see more of this kind of stuff. As a regular climber who doesn't set routes, I always enjoy getting to see and understand the thinking behind why routes are set the way they are. If anything, I would love even more insight into the creative process behind the initial concept and design of a boulder too. Like, what are your goals and aims when putting up a new route, and what makes, in your opinion, a good, hard, or interesting problem, e.g. you want intense coordination moves to start, or want something very finger-y. Honestly, I hope this can be more of a series or something for this channel!
Who else would like to see a training video with tips on what to workout for climbing? I.e. biceps, back muscles, training for imbalances with chest/triceps/shoulders, etc...?
taking holds of the wall and washing them was my job for about a year in a bouldering gym =)
thats amazing content. I'd love to see more of this in the future
I'd love to get more of this route setting content !!
The most underrated climbing content:)
I've been climbing indoors less than 2 months & fortunate to have made buddies with our route setters who come in weekly. So valuable!!!
Getting the beta and jumping in with the group after to test all the new routes. Really cool stuff and I get to learn from them since they're all better/more experienced.
And I see the drain they go through...hard work for sure!!!
Dude that transition was absolutely amazing
Haha thanks
@@EmilAbrahamsson And best of luck with the worldcup dude! You can crush this 💪
Interesting video. I was actually wondering on how a regular route setting day of you and the others looks like. Good luck in Innsbruck!
Great content!
Finally a new vid!!! so hype
It would be super interesting to view tour entire warm Up!
one of the best product placement (skillshare) i have seen on youtube in a while nice job emil!
you know what.
that transition is definitely worth it
By far the best climbing content on UA-cam, keep it up man!
Thanks a ton mate!
Great video. Thanks. It looks like hold washers are like dish washers in a restaurant - at the bottom of the ladder
Yaaay! Been impatient the last few days :D
Haha I'm happy to hear that ;)
Would love to see your friends hop on those nice boulders
The green problem is sick! Broke the start but haven't finished it, it's hard 😅 Nice video as always! 👌💪
Rooting for you in Innsbruck!
More routesetting would be awesome. Especially how you plan the day and time frame per boulder, the arrangement, how do you get feedback or decide what style to do, how many boulders, ... What infos do you get from the head route setter?
mooooore routesetting videos!!!
Good luck in Innsbrook!!
I know this video is old but I just want to say it’s one of my favorites. More setting stuff please
i'd love to see your boulders from the qualifiers in Innsbruck (assuming you're competing) i never manage to find anywhere to watch the qualifiers
beautiful transition into the advertisement xd
Awesome look into the life of a routesetter. Also love the pride month shirt Emil! Rock on!
Gonna move to Sweden just to climb at this gym, problems look incredible!
i was thinking the same thing!!! my sightseeing of stockholm will be the climbing gyms!
@@anamariadukic2649 You should do it ;-) The route setting in Solna is really cool. A small gym but good route setting.
sick vid as always
Thanks homie!
Great video. I am always curious about setting easier routes. Do you ever have issues setting the differences between lower grades, setting interesting moves while still being an easier grade?
Good luck in Innsbruck!
I have a hunch you could maybe break your first boulder (green) by sorta mantling over the two starting holds and reaching for the top?
Will you meet Stasa and/or Sofia in Innsbruck? I would looove an Episode with the two of them!
Also really nice video!
What magnet tool is that? I'm a setter and that would be so useful!
Wow really great editing and video! Out of interest, how much time does it take to set two boulders, such as these? Does it vary much from boulder to boulder?
Best skill share ad on UA-cam
Good luck for the worldcup!
Good luck in Innsbruck. Entered in lead as well as boulder! Have you ever done a route before? :)
I tried climbing this boulder statically, no wonder it seemed impossible
I tried it dynamically but the sloper after the stand start one is really not that great :-D At least not for me as an average kind of boulderer :-D Did you try the stand start too?
So interesting. Do you ever sketch boulders first, or is it always straight onto the wall?
where’d that magnetic baton at 3:22 come from? looks clutch
Great video. Sometimes you set routes, other times they set you.
7:40 CORDELIA
Hey Emil, this video is a bit old now but I want to comment as a regular at Solna. I was wondering, what about the beginers and intermediate climbers? It seems to me that you put a lot of time and effort to set the 7-range routes and then you just fill the wall with the rest 4 to 6C+ problems. For me this explains why there are big differences between problems of the same or similar grade as everything in this range is flashable, campus, even no hands level for you. Like this purple here which is super hard even to start it and the black next to it (in my humble opinion they do not belong in the 6-range).
Normally, on a newly set wall there is a warm-up level 6A, then a challenging 6B-6B+ and then one or two 6C-6C+ which can be from really hard to impossible for intermediate climbers. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy climbing at Solna but sometimes a new wall has nothing for me to work on, like the current A4 wall: flashable 6A (blue), challenging 6B+ (pink) and then a 6C and a 6C+ which I couldn't even start (yellow) and overall seem impossible to me. I mean, seriously single-finger pocket on a 6C? That's brutal man! haha
I like your shirt while setting
9:23 is a beautiful shot
Hey emil, what impact bits do you use? I believe you have a magnetic one. Im also a setter at my local gym and we only have standard ones!
you can magnetise ktx bits
How was the way that you start as route setting?
How long does it typically take you to set one boulder? I've started setting at my local gym and(at least over v2/3) it feels like it takes several hours to get all the moves to feel good and work as intended.
Emil “So to speak” Abrahamsson
Do you have to climb a certain level such as 7A or above to be a routesetter? Also, how's your compensation/salary of being a routesetter comparing to working in CS field?
Interesting that you actually strip the wall and wash the holds yourself when you set... I think all the gyms I know have separate employees for that. Seems like it would make the setting process much more efficient when the setters get to focus their time and energy on the new boulders.
how long to set them?
in general, how many boulders do you set in how many hours of work on average? like is it 1 per hour or?
your shirt is inside out thats crazy
What gym do you set for?
early for once. love the content
Welcome to the early squad my friend
*that face doe* : Noticed.
Meme stats: +5
Bigbrain Magnet tool use: +69
Nice video man!
do you re-use screws/bolts??
Yupp! We always have
I dont understand why setters are setting so much dynamic stuff... The days i go to the gym and see that the entire new section has running or jumping/coordination starts are the ones i am the saddest. From my experience the most people in the gym do not like the overly dynamics styles, although it is fun to watch.
What do you guys think?
PS: I am trying to remember if you set a delicate static boulder in one of your videos, but i cant recall. Maybe its a video idea for the future?
Keep up the good content! :)
Hello everybody, I would like some route setting advice. If it is too much to ask just don't read the rest / don't hate on me please :)
I want to introduce figure 4 and 9 to my fellow climbers at our local gym. We have the perfect place to set it up and I am thinking of the following sequence. Dyno to a super good jug, from which you go into either figure 4 to a gaston, or a figure 9 to a sidepull. Since it is meant to encourage people to try those moves I want to set the route as "easy" as I can while trying to keep it a certain consistency to the level of the route. So my questions would be around which level can I reasonably expect climbers to be able to perform those moves once they have been demonstrated and explained ?
PS : I know it is extremely difficult to "force" those moves, and I fully expect stronger climbers to campus that section, but I don't really mind. It is meant as an introduction to these cool moves.
60kg curls for reps... you a sexy beast
Damn, what a cool vid!! Next one gonna be you crushing "Return of the Sleepwalker" right?? :D
Looks like you could easily break the green one by just going straight up - just saying!
I actually thought the same thing after setting, but for me it felt quite difficult that way! Depends on your strengths though I believe, for me the jump was easier :-)
Watching from the US! I'm also a routesetter and I was wondering how intense the work over in Europe is. How many days a week are you setting and do you have to meet a quota of boulders/ropes?
Always great to see the process of others being shown and the level of artistic and physical demand required in this skill-based job. Keep up the great content!
first (plus 18)!!!!!
second
Also legend!
First!
Legend!
Wouldn't your life be easier with a tool belt to drop the screws and bolts rather then have to grab them all after?
A t-shirt with a message 🏳️🌈? 👊