Hey Brian. I saw that buffing smile. Lol. You can't fool a 40+ year combination man. Your sanding method is solid. Well sanded 😢3000 with water and an interface will leave a surface finish that is easily brought up with a white 3m waffle pad and white 3m clear coat rubbing compound. A thorough cleaning with soap and water removes the compound residue. A black 3m waffle pad and 3m perfect it works for me to polish it out. There is some blue compound called Clean Cut that is even better than the 3m compound. My local supplier dropped it. I went back to 3m. Everyone has a process that works for their clear, shop conditions and quality standards. All of which are different from shop to shop. Sometimes from job to job. You are a great painter. You're also a good teacher. Keep them coming.
47 and that's how I learned to buff same products and method ....3m white waffle wash and polish with black pad ....guy who taught me how to paint would not let me touch a paint gun until I had this method down .....lots of water 1500 200 2500 and if need be 3000 ....no finger tips ....black 3m sanding pad preferably .....interface pads were used as well but mostly a lot of hand sanding .......
@@donaldwilcoxjr.5212 My father started in 1960 doing collision repair and refinishing. In 1977 he and I started our shop. We worked together from then until his death in 2007. We used lacquer and clear lacquer over metallics. Mostly PPG products. We color sanded with 600 and water, buffed with a wool pad, and polished with something called Pink Polish. It was silicone free. No wax in the body shop. No Armor All either. We seldom had a fish eye. Our biggest problem in those days was repairing something that had been repainted with enamel. Especially air dried enamel. It would wrinkle up like the Rocky Mts. Lol.
I also use a full rotary buffing system with 3m. For all colors other than black we use white and a wool the go to blue and waffle. For dark colors that are less “swirl resistant” we use the full 3 step. Can get absolute glass with that system and have never had issues with swirls if I do my job right and don’t get in a rush
I agree. If you need to sand and polish 2000 should be the coarsest grit used. Follow with 3000, then cut and polish. These steps will remove about 30 microns of your clearcoat which is already paper thin - typically only 60-80 μm from the factory. If you burn through it you'll have to repaint. Sandpaper grit size in microns: 1000 = 18.55 μm 1500 = 12.65 μm 2000 = 9.64 μm 2500 = 7.81 μm 3000 = 6.57 μm
I know these little honda's are nothing special, I had a red 95 D16 5speed. But I always liked the way they look. Especially this one, you guys did a spectacular job on the paint!
This may seem like a crazy method to some, but for showcar finishes from my own substandard workshop, I have found that a very light guide coat (specific dry coat formula in spraycan which has no build) applied after the clear has cured and before any unmasking, shows up every imperfection, & shows me exactly how much paint/clearcoat needs to be removed in the cutting process. I’ve used this method to successfully remove runs & highly recommend this technique for anyone who sprays in their garage or homemade booth.
Hey Brian, just wanted to give you a shout out for this video. I did an extensive paint job on my son's car (my first ever paint job) and was less than happy with the final shine I achieved. Turns out I was too shy with the wet sand process. This video gave me confidence to wet sand the panels again and the car now looks awesome. Thanks mate! 👍
Another great option i use to wet sand polish is my forced rotation Flex 3401 polisher or my Makita forced rotation DA. I use the Mirka DA sanders with Trizact paper or Norton Dry Ice, exceptional results.
Thank YOU!!!!!!!!!!! As usual, super informative. if I can compare orange peel to mountains and valleys (mountains being the peaks of the orange peel, and valleys the lowest points); then, removing orange peel, but stopping at the valleys, means the car is not loosing any real protection. The valleys are the weakest points of the clearcoat; but that is where we stopped. To remove the mountains is easy. Simply sand a little and check if mountains have disappeared (I try to count the sanding passes and use that to remove all mountains on the surface).
I love that the rear wheel wells got the rubber trim back on the pinch weld. These little details... And even the driver door panel looks good, they are all caved in just above the elbow area.
Well you were true to your word. One more video before Christmas. Awesome job!! I’ve been doing body work, painting and detailing cars for a long time. Back in the day that’s all we did. Wet sand, cut and buff with a rotary. Random orbital changed the game. Your project came out exceptionally. Glass like finish. This stuff never gets old. Enjoy your Christmas and some much deserved time off.
I got off my butt today and finished editing lol. I had to one up my buddy kandy man before the holiday! Random orbital polishers have saved my paint work! Merry christmas !
Having done this quite a few times, as an educated hobbiest, I see you, and acknowledge your teachings, I would imagine this is only one of the reasons the lazy, will just paint some hooptie flat black.
I refinished pianos for a few years. Did all my gloss finishes like this. Lots of hand polishing and stuff and it can take months to finish. Its always a beautiful thing to finish the work. Also yes you can use a rotary to get swirl free results. Im old enough to have had to figure it out
Brian thank you so much this help me out so much after paint cars for over 25 years now able to do my own buff and wax paint correction fixes very appreciated
I watched a couple of videos about cutting clear coat . They suggested starting with 800 . Im sure glad I found your video . 800 would have created a lot of work . Thanx Brian
Fantastic video Brian. If I make a couple suggestions from things I learned trying to chase a true show quality SEMA finish. I let the clear harden a minimum of two weeks, especially in the south Fl sun and then I would open it up slightly with 800g to just let the rest of the solvents gas out. Most I spoke to in the restoration/show car world would wait a minimum of 2-3 months before fully going at it. Also, only using long hard blocks, no small rubbery soft blocks, I made that mistake for years and didn't know. A lot of the top restoration guys are using long acrylic blocks from body work all the way to polishing. I like Linear blocks because its an acrylic and also has a slight flexion. Kounts Customs, Kindig Designs, Charley Hutton I know to name a few. Now when you are ready to continue with your 800g, guide coat it with powder, I know it might sound strange to most, but I learnt from them doing this will show your highs and lows in the clear the naked eye will never be able to see. Then when you sanded all that guide coat, use waterborne cleaner between each step and clean your panel from the clear residue and repeat the same process all the way to 2000g all with a long hard block. Then of course finish it with 3000 grit on the Trizact to make buffing easier. Seen these guys finishes under a florescent light and it's absolutely next level of flat. The light reflection that bounces off is laser straight across the panel. Small things I learn from them that make a substantially huge difference in the overall finish. Also learned from them not to use Ceramic coating until a minimum of a month plus so the paint is fully cured, because if done early, the chemical will trap the remaining solvents gassing out and the clear will start shrinking, costing you more time on your work.
I don't have any air tools but I want to buy an air powered DA sander and the materials you have listed to get my paint looking better. My friend did lay down a phenomenal job but there's some smoothing and dirt nibs to be removed. He laid down 2 coats of clear and I'm thinking to use a paint meter to ensure the 2 coats are fine throughout! Really appreciate your videos.
Hi Brian I will be spraying my van next month it’s a red van and has always had problems with fading paint will doing this increase the chances of it fading again in the long term and will it need constant up keep and regular buffing? Thanks
Nice appreciate the tips and tricks u the man keep it coming I'm almost sure u have pissed alot of shops off now everybody is painting there own cars thanks to u
I’ve been wanting to get into painting but not ready to start on my car yet so want to take it slow to learn properly on something else. I heard another thing one could practice with is sheet metal idk if that’s accurate or not but if you have any more advice on what one could use to practice on I would appreciate it thank you keep up the great content!
Not that you need it, but I give y'all a shout out in an upcoming video where I repainted my silver Vic and it came out really great... my best yet. Not sure when I'll edit it... those paint videos are tough to film and edit.
HI! I really appricated your work! Can you make a video about matt clear coat and the proceed? I got a motorcycle to paint with graphite black and matt clear , some few tricks will be appreciate! Tanks in advance!
nice work. I have found you can jewel it to same level with a rotary but the DA makes it much easier for those less familiar with rotary. Great results again and info provided.
1st time painter here. I’m in pa. I work in a garage with propane heat. Temps are gonna be in the 40s. I can heat area to 70-80 but when I start to paint I would turn heat off so I don’t blow up. I have applied high build and sanded to 400. Do you think I should paint with this type of weather or do you feel I should wait until 70-80 weather. I’m not sure if paint will cure properly. I plan 3 base 2 clear.
Coming from buffing mostly Audi's and Porsches at a high end shop for the past 10 years, it's nice seeing other people's procedures and listening on their strategies and tips. There's always something new to learn or try. Great results! That Honda is looking mighty shiny. Btw, how are you liking that battery powered Milwaukee polisher? I have the DeWalt equivalent and it's great for polishing but does seem to go through a couple of 4ah batteries on large, heavy duty buff jobs.
So COOL you showed WET SANDING WITH A DA nobody ever shows that, nice job. QUESTION: Brian, does it matter if we use a regular Dewalt/Milwaukee 5in orbital electric sander or is it better to use my Rupes DA polisher, which one will give the best results? thank you, and thanks for your channel. You give details and are more specific than most, we appreciate that.
The video that was a game changer form me was when you introduced me to Kovax dry paper. That stuff is absolutely nuts. How come you dont use it all the time?
I want to shave the door side moldings on my integra by properly welding them. Should I looks for a body shop or a welder/fabricator to perform the work?
I’m doing a motorcycle and I have spots I can’t get a DA into. What do you suggest I do? I know this video is a few months old so this is a long shot but thanks for your time anyhow.
On that 6" random orbital do you prefer the g9 or g15? Looks like he used several pads- orange, green, and white. Could you have gotten by with only orange for this car? What chemical did you use between polishing stages for wiping?
You mentioned it could take forever to cut/polish if you were to only use a DA. If you did want to only use a DA, what about following up the 3000 trizact wet, with 8000 trizact wet, would that allow you to do all the cut/polish using only a DA in a more reasonable amount of time?
I have a 2016black f150 . The clear coat scratches so easy it drives me nuts. Would this be a water based paint. I'm afraid to sand and buff it. Because I have no idea how much clear the factory put on it. Also is there a different way to mix and shot water based paint. Would love to know more about it.
Hi Brian! I've been doing what you recommend in your videos about buffing and polishing.I always have this problem: I paint the panel, I color sand it wet, starting with 2000 then 2500, 3000, 4000 and finishing with 5000.When I start polishing with the Menzerna 1000 compound( but this happens even using other professional polishes) I can always see some straight scratches...I can't understand why. They're difficult to remove because they're quite deep and I don't want to risk burning through the paint.The pads I use are new, clean and wet. I always clean the surface with a wet microfiber cloth beforehand, in order to remove any possible particles of dust.I just can't understand why the pads of the rotary or orbital machines are turning but the scratches they produce are straight...help me if you can... thanks!
Hello sir, I own a '99 Torch Red Corvette, with minor scratches from the previous owner that I cannot remove with every compound on Earth. Would you recommend wet sanding? They are located on the deck lid and hood. Thank you and Merry Christmas!!
@@PaintSociety That Honda paint turned out gorgeous. I have an '89 (red) Corvette. The clear coat is failing and flaking off in places. If I use the method you show in this video, could I achieve good results without respraying another clear coat on it? Thank you in advance for your answer.
I have a lowrider we are working on.. gonna hate to polish this thing. We will have plenty of clear to work with but we will be blocking it using hard blocks, 800,1200,2000,then da 3000 before starting the polish. Using guide coat on the first 2 steps
hey! so i painted my bumper(first time) and i got these cloudeness on it, i figured it out that it apeared from cold wind after i opened garage doors, i can fix it without repainting it?
Got a question... I know you can wet flat and polish orange peel out, after a respray... BUT... Ive got an old 2010 car, That is looking a little tatty, paint wise. Many micro scratches, from car keys as you open the door etc. also, factory finish has very noticeable orange peel, and i dislike it... So wondered if its possible to flat sand factory paint with a DA, and then shoot some fresh clear over it? For new-look shine, and no orange peel?!?! or can you only do that, On freshly painted cars? cheers
28 years of bodywork tells me that the painter needs to buff his OWN work. Doing so forces the painter to produce jobs that don't need to be sanded and buffed. I speak from experience, so don't try to argue. I've been doing this since 1995, and if the job is CLEAN before you paint, you'll have clean paintjobs. One should develop consistency as long as one CAN BE consistent. The products don't matter, it's the application process.
They brought it up to a show car quality finish, much better than the OEM orange peel look. Don’t think you can get that level of finish straight out of the gun. It requires sanding, compounding and polishing.
@@Patrick94GSR indeed, but working in a production shop requires more discretion into how much work goes into any job. Time is money, hours spent on unnecessary processes is wasted money. If a job doesn't need to be buffed, why do it?
A professional painter doesn't need to cut and buff the whole paintjob. De-nib, and go. If you want a show-car finish, cut your paintjob with 800, and re-clear it, then block it out. Not every car has to look like glass. Use your best judgement job to job as to what looks right.
@@averagejoe6971 I understand all that. I was referring to this car specifically, a show car grade restoration project over on the Acura Honda Classic channel. Huge time and money was put into the project over the span of 3 years.
Show quality and production quality are opposite ends of the spectrum... Not every body shop is going to give out showcar results, especially when the time, products and labor to achieve desired results exceeds the cost of the overhead costs. A customer should expect to get what is paid for, nothing more. Let's keep it real. If you have any experience painting, as i do, you would know the difference.
Makes like Benz and bmw have enough clear to sand with this method. Toyota Honda and Hyundai Subaru basically any other generic brand have very thin clear and I wouldn’t attempt. Even if you don’t burn through, the material left will be so thin the sun will eat through it depending where you live
Would always happen to me as well but I learned to mist first coat and let it tack for 10-15 minutes depending on temperature and the other coats hammer on but from farther distance than usual
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome Project! Thank you for the opportunity!
Please check out the turbo wax website fellas! Juan came over special just to help me out. Let’s help him sell out of products!
@@PaintSociety I will be place my order soon!!!
Hey Brian. I saw that buffing smile. Lol. You can't fool a 40+ year combination man. Your sanding method is solid. Well sanded 😢3000 with water and an interface will leave a surface finish that is easily brought up with a white 3m waffle pad and white 3m clear coat rubbing compound. A thorough cleaning with soap and water removes the compound residue. A black 3m waffle pad and 3m perfect it works for me to polish it out. There is some blue compound called Clean Cut that is even better than the 3m compound. My local supplier dropped it. I went back to 3m. Everyone has a process that works for their clear, shop conditions and quality standards. All of which are different from shop to shop. Sometimes from job to job. You are a great painter. You're also a good teacher. Keep them coming.
47 and that's how I learned to buff same products and method ....3m white waffle wash and polish with black pad ....guy who taught me how to paint would not let me touch a paint gun until I had this method down .....lots of water 1500 200 2500 and if need be 3000 ....no finger tips ....black 3m sanding pad preferably .....interface pads were used as well but mostly a lot of hand sanding .......
@@donaldwilcoxjr.5212 My father started in 1960 doing collision repair and refinishing. In 1977 he and I started our shop. We worked together from then until his death in 2007. We used lacquer and clear lacquer over metallics. Mostly PPG products. We color sanded with 600 and water, buffed with a wool pad, and polished with something called Pink Polish. It was silicone free. No wax in the body shop. No Armor All either. We seldom had a fish eye. Our biggest problem in those days was repairing something that had been repainted with enamel. Especially air dried enamel. It would wrinkle up like the Rocky Mts. Lol.
I also use a full rotary buffing system with 3m. For all colors other than black we use white and a wool the go to blue and waffle. For dark colors that are less “swirl resistant” we use the full 3 step. Can get absolute glass with that system and have never had issues with swirls if I do my job right and don’t get in a rush
I agree. If you need to sand and polish 2000 should be the coarsest grit used. Follow with 3000, then cut and polish. These steps will remove about 30 microns of your clearcoat which is already paper thin - typically only 60-80 μm from the factory. If you burn through it you'll have to repaint.
Sandpaper grit size in microns:
1000 = 18.55 μm
1500 = 12.65 μm
2000 = 9.64 μm
2500 = 7.81 μm
3000 = 6.57 μm
For a diy person without a paint booth this step is basically a must 😅
This is the step I’m at now. I’ll start again in spring once I’ve learned what I need to learn.
I know these little honda's are nothing special, I had a red 95 D16 5speed. But I always liked the way they look. Especially this one, you guys did a spectacular job on the paint!
This may seem like a crazy method to some, but for showcar finishes from my own substandard workshop, I have found that a very light guide coat (specific dry coat formula in spraycan which has no build) applied after the clear has cured and before any unmasking, shows up every imperfection, & shows me exactly how much paint/clearcoat needs to be removed in the cutting process. I’ve used this method to successfully remove runs & highly recommend this technique for anyone who sprays in their garage or homemade booth.
Hey Brian, just wanted to give you a shout out for this video.
I did an extensive paint job on my son's car (my first ever paint job) and was less than happy with the final shine I achieved. Turns out I was too shy with the wet sand process. This video gave me confidence to wet sand the panels again and the car now looks awesome. Thanks mate! 👍
That's awesome that you bagged your first paint job AND hooked up your son with a sweet ride. Great job!! 👍
This car is absolutely gorgeous. An incredible build. So damn clean. I wouldn’t change a thing!
Yeah I love seeing these EM1 cars getting love
I actually like buffing...watching that shine come through after sanding is like magic
Another great option i use to wet sand polish is my forced rotation Flex 3401 polisher or my Makita forced rotation DA. I use the Mirka DA sanders with Trizact paper or Norton Dry Ice, exceptional results.
Thank YOU!!!!!!!!!!! As usual, super informative. if I can compare orange peel to mountains and valleys (mountains being the peaks of the orange peel, and valleys the lowest points); then, removing orange peel, but stopping at the valleys, means the car is not loosing any real protection. The valleys are the weakest points of the clearcoat; but that is where we stopped. To remove the mountains is easy. Simply sand a little and check if mountains have disappeared (I try to count the sanding passes and use that to remove all mountains on the surface).
I love that the rear wheel wells got the rubber trim back on the pinch weld. These little details...
And even the driver door panel looks good, they are all caved in just above the elbow area.
Well you were true to your word. One more video before Christmas. Awesome job!! I’ve been doing body work, painting and detailing cars for a long time. Back in the day that’s all we did. Wet sand, cut and buff with a rotary. Random orbital changed the game. Your project came out exceptionally. Glass like finish. This stuff never gets old. Enjoy your Christmas and some much deserved time off.
I got off my butt today and finished editing lol. I had to one up my buddy kandy man before the holiday! Random orbital polishers have saved my paint work! Merry christmas !
Having done this quite a few times, as an educated hobbiest, I see you, and acknowledge your teachings, I would imagine this is only one of the reasons the lazy, will just paint some hooptie flat black.
I refinished pianos for a few years. Did all my gloss finishes like this. Lots of hand polishing and stuff and it can take months to finish. Its always a beautiful thing to finish the work. Also yes you can use a rotary to get swirl free results. Im old enough to have had to figure it out
Brian thank you so much this help me out so much after paint cars for over 25 years now able to do my own buff and wax paint correction fixes very appreciated
Absolutely beautiful . One of my favorite cars of all time. You guys did it justice. Congrats, merry Christmas, and best wishes in the new year!
I watched a couple of videos about cutting clear coat .
They suggested starting with 800 . Im sure glad I found your video . 800 would have created a lot of work .
Thanx Brian
800 is way too harsh
Brian - I should have have had you paint my 1999 Civic Si! But here I am watching all your videos trying to learn to do this myself.
Fantastic video Brian.
If I make a couple suggestions from things I learned trying to chase a true show quality SEMA finish.
I let the clear harden a minimum of two weeks, especially in the south Fl sun and then I would open it up slightly with 800g to just let the rest of the solvents gas out. Most I spoke to in the restoration/show car world would wait a minimum of 2-3 months before fully going at it. Also, only using long hard blocks, no small rubbery soft blocks, I made that mistake for years and didn't know. A lot of the top restoration guys are using long acrylic blocks from body work all the way to polishing. I like Linear blocks because its an acrylic and also has a slight flexion. Kounts Customs, Kindig Designs, Charley Hutton I know to name a few.
Now when you are ready to continue with your 800g, guide coat it with powder, I know it might sound strange to most, but I learnt from them doing this will show your highs and lows in the clear the naked eye will never be able to see. Then when you sanded all that guide coat, use waterborne cleaner between each step and clean your panel from the clear residue and repeat the same process all the way to 2000g all with a long hard block.
Then of course finish it with 3000 grit on the Trizact to make buffing easier.
Seen these guys finishes under a florescent light and it's absolutely next level of flat. The light reflection that bounces off is laser straight across the panel.
Small things I learn from them that make a substantially huge difference in the overall finish.
Also learned from them not to use Ceramic coating until a minimum of a month plus so the paint is fully cured, because if done early, the chemical will trap the remaining solvents gassing out and the clear will start shrinking, costing you more time on your work.
This came out great.Question: Is it the same process with a single stage paintjob?
I don't have any air tools but I want to buy an air powered DA sander and the materials you have listed to get my paint looking better. My friend did lay down a phenomenal job but there's some smoothing and dirt nibs to be removed. He laid down 2 coats of clear and I'm thinking to use a paint meter to ensure the 2 coats are fine throughout! Really appreciate your videos.
My god! Is the best civic build ever!! Very good job guys!
Wow. These cars were the hit when I was a teenager.
Great video Brian , thanks for sharing your knowledge . The car turned out great . Have a good Christmas greetings from Australia 🇦🇺
Merry christmas !
Excellent Brian, I’m now searching for a good swirl remover polish in addition to my normal (U.K. ) T-cut compound..
All i use with the turbowax one
This is the video I've been waiting to see. I know I've mentioned it several times. Ty for making it ❤
Guys, that's a work of art!
Hi Brian I will be spraying my van next month it’s a red van and has always had problems with fading paint will doing this increase the chances of it fading again in the long term and will it need constant up keep and regular buffing? Thanks
Nice appreciate the tips and tricks u the man keep it coming I'm almost sure u have pissed alot of shops off now everybody is painting there own cars thanks to u
Is it advisable to apply ceramic coating to recently painted cars?
I’ve been wanting to get into painting but not ready to start on my car yet so want to take it slow to learn properly on something else. I heard another thing one could practice with is sheet metal idk if that’s accurate or not but if you have any more advice on what one could use to practice on I would appreciate it thank you keep up the great content!
Love your videos, why not flow coat in this case?
I always learn something from you and Mario. Thank you both
Our pleasure!
Not that you need it, but I give y'all a shout out in an upcoming video where I repainted my silver Vic and it came out really great... my best yet. Not sure when I'll edit it... those paint videos are tough to film and edit.
HI! I really appricated your work! Can you make a video about matt clear coat and the proceed? I got a motorcycle to paint with graphite black and matt clear , some few tricks will be appreciate! Tanks in advance!
what about wet sand and buff on a single stage paint job?
Sir, you are a master in this area! has down to you!
nice work. I have found you can jewel it to same level with a rotary but the DA makes it much easier for those less familiar with rotary. Great results again and info provided.
1st time painter here. I’m in pa. I work in a garage with propane heat. Temps are gonna be in the 40s. I can heat area to 70-80 but when I start to paint I would turn heat off so I don’t blow up. I have applied high build and sanded to 400. Do you think I should paint with this type of weather or do you feel I should wait until 70-80 weather. I’m not sure if paint will cure properly. I plan 3 base 2 clear.
Thank you for the awesome video! I notice that you have facial hair, do you feel like there is a certain mask that seals best with facial hair?
Any idea what base this was? Looks amazing, may want it for my "gm bright red" repaint
Beautiful! At what speed did you use the rotary machine?
Coming from buffing mostly Audi's and Porsches at a high end shop for the past 10 years, it's nice seeing other people's procedures and listening on their strategies and tips. There's always something new to learn or try. Great results! That Honda is looking mighty shiny.
Btw, how are you liking that battery powered Milwaukee polisher? I have the DeWalt equivalent and it's great for polishing but does seem to go through a couple of 4ah batteries on large, heavy duty buff jobs.
I love it but i ran it hard the other day and it started smoking lol.
Beautiful job Brian.
great video and channel. thanks for all your work and sharing the info
So COOL you showed WET SANDING WITH A DA nobody ever shows that, nice job. QUESTION: Brian, does it matter if we use a regular Dewalt/Milwaukee 5in orbital electric sander or is it better to use my Rupes DA polisher, which one will give the best results? thank you, and thanks for your channel. You give details and are more specific than most, we appreciate that.
Use the polisher. Also you must use water with 3000 3m trizact
Your work is awesome. So inspiring.
Absolutely loved this buddy!
Thanks a ton!
The video that was a game changer form me was when you introduced me to Kovax dry paper. That stuff is absolutely nuts. How come you dont use it all the time?
Hi great video, what pad did you use for final polish please
I want to shave the door side moldings on my integra by properly welding them. Should I looks for a body shop or a welder/fabricator to perform the work?
I’m doing a motorcycle and I have spots I can’t get a DA into. What do you suggest I do? I know this video is a few months old so this is a long shot but thanks for your time anyhow.
would you do this for single stage black job?
That looks amazing. Good job!
On that 6" random orbital do you prefer the g9 or g15? Looks like he used several pads- orange, green, and white. Could you have gotten by with only orange for this car? What chemical did you use between polishing stages for wiping?
Hey Brian just wanted to know how long after you painted did you wet sand and buff?
V nice info thank you very much for sharing 🙏Can you please give redcolor name ,code, paint Brand used on this
Juan is awesome!
You mentioned it could take forever to cut/polish if you were to only use a DA. If you did want to only use a DA, what about following up the 3000 trizact wet, with 8000 trizact wet, would that allow you to do all the cut/polish using only a DA in a more reasonable amount of time?
greetings brian 👍👍👏great job thanks for sharing
Great series. Definitely can refine with the rotary ❤
That car looks amazing!!!
I have a 2016black f150 . The clear coat scratches so easy it drives me nuts. Would this be a water based paint. I'm afraid to sand and buff it. Because I have no idea how much clear the factory put on it. Also is there a different way to mix and shot water based paint. Would love to know more about it.
Is Liquid Ebony still out there? We use to use it after wet sanding.
Nice EM1
Do you have to wait 1 month before doing this if painted at home with out bake ?
48 hrs
1-2 days after is the best. After that the clear hardens pretty good and harder to cut and buff
Hi Brian! I've been doing what you recommend in your videos about buffing and polishing.I always have this problem: I paint the panel, I color sand it wet, starting with 2000 then 2500, 3000, 4000 and finishing with 5000.When I start polishing with the Menzerna 1000 compound( but this happens even using other professional polishes) I can always see some straight scratches...I can't understand why. They're difficult to remove because they're quite deep and I don't want to risk burning through the paint.The pads I use are new, clean and wet. I always clean the surface with a wet microfiber cloth beforehand, in order to remove any possible particles of dust.I just can't understand why the pads of the rotary or orbital machines are turning but the scratches they produce are straight...help me if you can... thanks!
On your first step using the orbital polisher did you use a microfiber pad or foam pad ?
Foam
Bro thanks wow makes my job easy
Hello sir, I own a '99 Torch Red Corvette, with minor scratches from the previous owner that I cannot remove with every compound on Earth. Would you recommend wet sanding? They are located on the deck lid and hood. Thank you and Merry Christmas!!
Try first with 2000 then polish but be careful
They you for your advice and valuable time!@@PaintSociety
@@PaintSociety
That Honda paint turned out gorgeous.
I have an '89 (red) Corvette. The clear coat is failing and flaking off in places.
If I use the method you show in this video,
could I achieve good results without respraying another clear coat on it?
Thank you in advance for your answer.
Absolutely beautiful!
I have a lowrider we are working on.. gonna hate to polish this thing. We will have plenty of clear to work with but we will be blocking it using hard blocks, 800,1200,2000,then da 3000 before starting the polish. Using guide coat on the first 2 steps
You need a hand? I will send juan over 😂😂
Nice job bro!!
The quality of clear is also a factor on a deep gloss and shine you get also
hey! so i painted my bumper(first time) and i got these cloudeness on it, i figured it out that it apeared from cold wind after i opened garage doors, i can fix it without repainting it?
Beautiful 🤩
Got a question... I know you can wet flat and polish orange peel out, after a respray...
BUT... Ive got an old 2010 car, That is looking a little tatty, paint wise. Many micro scratches, from car keys as you open the door etc. also, factory finish has very noticeable orange peel, and i dislike it...
So wondered if its possible to flat sand factory paint with a DA, and then shoot some fresh clear over it?
For new-look shine, and no orange peel?!?!
or can you only do that, On freshly painted cars?
cheers
How long should you wait after painting a car to apply the ceramic coating?
I got overspray on my ceramic coating how do I take it off without affecting my ceramic coating underneath the overspray
Nice, really nice.
Hi Brian, my compressor is not powerful enough for a da.. would you go electric?
Yes 100%
How long can we buffing the car after new paint
witch pads is best for the swirls and holograms removal ?
Check the description I listed the orange ones
Love your videos , always teaching me something . Merry Christmas Brian !!
thanks again, every time ive used a random orbital polisher ive ended up scratching it to death, or it just dosnt work. thanks again
Now you have an idea why
28 years of bodywork tells me that the painter needs to buff his OWN work. Doing so forces the painter to produce jobs that don't need to be sanded and buffed.
I speak from experience, so don't try to argue. I've been doing this since 1995, and if the job is CLEAN before you paint, you'll have clean paintjobs. One should develop consistency as long as one CAN BE consistent. The products don't matter, it's the application process.
They brought it up to a show car quality finish, much better than the OEM orange peel look. Don’t think you can get that level of finish straight out of the gun. It requires sanding, compounding and polishing.
@@Patrick94GSR indeed, but working in a production shop requires more discretion into how much work goes into any job. Time is money, hours spent on unnecessary processes is wasted money. If a job doesn't need to be buffed, why do it?
A professional painter doesn't need to cut and buff the whole paintjob. De-nib, and go. If you want a show-car finish, cut your paintjob with 800, and re-clear it, then block it out. Not every car has to look like glass. Use your best judgement job to job as to what looks right.
@@averagejoe6971 I understand all that. I was referring to this car specifically, a show car grade restoration project over on the Acura Honda Classic channel. Huge time and money was put into the project over the span of 3 years.
Show quality and production quality are opposite ends of the spectrum...
Not every body shop is going to give out showcar results, especially when the time, products and labor to achieve desired results exceeds the cost of the overhead costs. A customer should expect to get what is paid for, nothing more.
Let's keep it real.
If you have any experience painting, as i do, you would know the difference.
A MONTH? Id hate to get the bill for this paint job. I couldn't afford the 3000 grit paper, let alone the 8000 grit.
Brilliant work. The car looks like it should be kept in a glass box 😅.
Anyone know what those wheels are plz let me know.
Any chance I can come to work for you for the experience
Love to see the process for a car with no clear coat.
I know you probably baked the clear how long did you waiting to start cut and polish ?
Its not that we intended to wait but this was a 3 year project so we buffed after like a month
Do you need this this 2k clear?
Wow thsnks
That turned out gorgeous!
All that time, products & labor.....
Too bad it was wasted on a Honda. 😉
Lol.
Does ceramic coating impact your ability to do future paint work on a car
No not at all
Any of those products have fillers in them?
No
What model is the car
if you do this on factory paint, it's probably too thin? for 2000 ? asking for my car that i think has only one stage paint on ?
Makes like Benz and bmw have enough clear to sand with this method. Toyota Honda and Hyundai Subaru basically any other generic brand have very thin clear and I wouldn’t attempt. Even if you don’t burn through, the material left will be so thin the sun will eat through it depending where you live
@@randoms71 benz a,b,c class, 1er,2er,3er bmw is crap clearcoat.
@@miauzkater6745 I’ve wet sanded lots of both they have a decent amount. More than any other everyday makes. I paint for a living
Great work but my understanding is ceramic coating does not prevent swirls at all that’s why people PPF
Sadly, I have a sag or two in my single stage urethane. Solid color.
Would always happen to me as well but I learned to mist first coat and let it tack for 10-15 minutes depending on temperature and the other coats hammer on but from farther distance than usual