Your bolt trick was the solution we needed. Nothing else we tried worked. We did end up removing 3 lug bolts and using 3 hardened bolts for the removal. That allowed us to quickly distribute the load as we were pulling it off. We were working on a 2012 Ford Flex. The galvanic corrosion between the aluminum knuckle and the steel bearing is terrible here in Michigan. Thank you.
Great method, I'll use it next time I do this job and the hub is hard to move. One thing though, when I got my first car as a teenager, my dad taught me to never use a carpenter's hammer on auto work as they're designed to drive soft nails only. He advised me to buy a set of quality engineers ball pein hammers, which I did and they're still going strong 55 years later. Just new handles on a couple.
I am very happy to report that this method works - and my 2006 GM vehicle (rear-wheel drive) has 120,000 Chicagoland miles. It also has an aluminum suspension knuckle that had a ferocious grip on the hub assembly/wheel bearing. I had PB Blasted it and beat it with a sledge and driven a couple flat head screwdrivers into the few spots where the hub wasn't melded to the dust shield - all to no avail. Then I tried this Bolt Trick. A crack opened on top; rotated outer hub ~180 degrees and cranked down the pusher bolt again and another crack opened; banged on the hub's backside with a small slege and that SOB popped out! To other newbies reading this, there's 3 key factors, per my experience: 1. Use a *hardened* (grade 8) bolt and nut, as GoProGuy said (3:30- 7:45 in the video). 2. Use a 6-point impact socket. 3. Use a breaker bar (mine was ~14") P.S. My hub already had an open hole, so I didn't have to remove any studs before starting. Muchas Gracias Amigo!
This Vedio was meant for me to see, I'm in the process of trying to remove a front wheel bearing off of a 2003 Ford Taurus . I've seen some other methods, but, this the most smoothes, and sensible way to do the Job . Thank You !
Appreciate the video here sir. I currently own a 2006 Expedition that is having wheel bearing issues so I will be doing this very job in the near future. Well done sir! And many thanks for an instructional video.
Great video ! 2001 GMC Sierra with 350K miles and both front hubs were badly rusted in place. This method worked in just a few minutes (after getting grade 8 bolts). Lots of cleanup inside knuckle to make sure new ones fit properly but this was a lifesaver. Thank you for the info.
Just used your method (bolt and the larger spacer nut) on a 6 year old salt belt Ford Explorer front hub. Worked where beating it to death with a hammer never would have. Cheers and thanks!
Was having a hell of a time trying to get mine off I tried everything beeting the hell out of it I even went to auto zone to rent a tool and that didn't work either I seen ur video got an old nut and built of of shed and I'll be godamed if that dam thing just didn't pop right off lol it truly helped me for sure and many others thank you
Fantastic ! Tremendous camera shots , clear concise descriptions , perfect pace . Definitely a valuable resource you produced for us ! Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge !! 👊🏼🔥
I tried all kinds of other tips to get the hub off - and none of them worked. But this one did! I had to remove 2 studs and use 2 bolts to make it work. I used 3"-long, 1/2"-diameter, grade 5 bolts from Home Depot. Thanks!
Used grade 8 hardened bolts and nuts + plenty of PB Blaster. NEVER EVER came loose that easily. And yes the steering knuckles were aluminum. Cannot believe how aluminum corrosion “locks” that wheel bearing in place. Been doing this for years. Tried heat, slide hammer and a home made buster tool. ALWAYS A PITA JOB !!!
@@Kiddro22 They can be useless with the standard sized hammer, but can be made very effective if you upsize the weights.. Still, the jackscrew method is much better.
it worked FANTASTICLY. I pretty darn sure i could have beat on the assembly for a month and still it wouldn't come off. In fact I'd probably have bent the shield plate in to a ball, and have only removed the assembly chip by chip. 7/16" GRADE 8 bolt x around 2" long and Grade 8 nut fit in nicely (with the larger bolt as a spacer). It took quite a while to little by little break things loose as i moved the bolt around to wherever i could find an available flat spot (only 2 spots, barely found a 3rd). Had to move around to the different spots about 4 times each and spray in rust/corrosion penetrant constantly, and then could hit with heavy hammer to break things more loose, then a couple bangs on the spindle ..... FINALLY it came off. Thank you for the tip!!
So glad it worked! Would have loved to see your face when it started moving. I know I've had moments of epiphany when things finally worked the way they're supposed to also!
Definitely worked. Bought two bolts but only used one. The down side is the 10 minutes it took to grind off a bolt on the old hub (which is why I only used one of the bolts, and spun the wheel around to the opposite side). On my wife's Ford Edge, the margins were tight, and the knuckle is covered by a sheet metal dust cover (I just targeted a position on the cover next to the small bolts holding that cover in place, i.e. it's a hard point, put the end of the grade 8 bolt right next to it). Difficult to fit the grade 8 bolt,washers, spacing bolt, and grade 8 nut (used 3/8") in place between the hub and knuckle. But no comparison to the effort of removing that hub without that bolt and nut, or a proper press. Oh, and I used an air impact wrench to crank the bolt in on the outside, and a boxed end wrench to hold the bearing nut in place behind the hub wheel. Made very short work of it. (I tried the other trick of using a towing receiver without the ball, but no luck. Mine was probably too short for proper leverage.)
Thank you so much that has to be one of the best videos I've ever seen on UA-cam about a wheel bearing Awesome mechanic skills!! Ty. The most effective video!
Thanks, I used this method on an Opel Astra J front bearing, and it works. I forgot to buy hardened bolts, so I broke three 10 mm normal bolts, but I took only 30 minutes to remove the old bearing.
I have seen videos of people hammering away like mad at the seized wheel bearing. Must be definitely doing damage to the car. Your method is meticulous but better. 👍
I'm glad I found your video today. Took me three days of heating that damnit thing up with a mixture of transmission fluid and acetone (listening to ChrisFix🤫) After seeing the way you tackled that job with confidence and not even using anti-seize gave me a huge jolt of confidence. Thank you 😊
You could also finish off the rotor and brake caliper with Red Rustoleum primer to galvanize, cure the rust and make it look good; works on all surface rusts similar! :)
Your neat trick worked for me today. The hub was rusted into place but I modified a steering wheel puller to act like the bolt/nut combo in your video. When enough strain was on the side of the bolt I had to use a screwdriver on the other side, driven into the crack with an 8 pound sledge. Alternately tightening the bolt and pounding with the screwdriver/sledge got the hub moving and in a few minutes it was out!
This worked awesome on a old sierra! Really saved me a lot of time. My 4lb sledge hammer didn't have a chance. I used a socket as a spacer and a 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt.
Good video and thanks for posting. I have some constructive feedback for you. @1:29 you say to pound on the nut and not the shaft. This is an easy way to destroy the threads on the shaft. The shaft is actually designed to take a beating. If you look at @2:30 you will see the first millimeter does not have thread and that section is actually tapered inward. This is to accommodate any slight mushrooming. The best way is to use a pointed chisel with a hammer or air hammer. The dimple in the center of the shaft is to accept that chisels point. Again, great job.
An air hammer is great, but I didn't have a compressor. I've seen plenty of axle shafts mushroom right past the blank 5mm. I recommend keeping the nut on. Don't hit that axle shaft without a nut on it - or you'll learn fast when you then need to replace an otherwise perfectly good CV joint because you can't thread a new axle nut onto it!
@@goproguy7844 If I have hit the axle shaft, I usually keep the bolt on and put a small section of 2 x 4 lumber on it and hit that to avoid damage... but this may not work on every car because shaft has to be sticking out a bit.
I would recommend removing at least 2-3 of the studs and use those holes as well. The reason is by merely rotating the wheel bearing and using the same hole you aren't truly pulling evenly in the bearing. All the force is still concentrated in the same area of the bearing. 3 stud holes would be the best.
@sexiewasd - that's the way we like it!!! The rear ones on Ford Explorers are the absolute worst hubs to try to get off. Even when the things were under warranty, they were hell to remove especially for the 0.7 hours it paid.
Also, don't use antiseize, if anything use locktite. You don't want it coming off easier. Wheel bearings as of about 2005s'ish are designed to last 100k miles. Ever which, you'll need to replace them again. So yes, you'll replace it again, so why locktite, because you don't want the axle nut to loosen as you drive. The rotor and wheel could come off while driving, and antiseize would make it easier to happen. By the time you hear symptoms of a bad bearing occuring it may be too late. Locktite will make sure that bearing stays on even if it full seized. What happens if a bearing fails? Two things: it either locks your wheel up. That left or right tire stops turning while the others do. The bearing stops rotating but doesn't break apart or come out. Or the second thing is the bearing seized, stops rotating but it slides along the axle, shoving the nut out the way and there goes your wheel. Antiseize can make the route of pushing the nut off easier than stopping the wheel. A lot of factors come into play here. A lot. You could damage CV joints, CV axles, transmission gear/syncos, damage from wheel bearings damage other suspension and steering components etc etc This video is great! Just I personally, and highly recommend not using antiseize in this situation. Your life or your transmission?
@@ChipperTheChipster I think he’s only talking about putting antiseize on the surface where the knuckle and bearing housing meet. That way they are less likely to be stuck on when replacing in the future. He did mention putting loctite on all the bolts though. The antiseize on the outside of the bearing housing has nothing to do with the bolts holding it in place, so there is no danger at all.
Great video! Can I offer a suggestion? Next time you get a new car, use lanolin grease (Woolwax is the best) and spray the bottom of your car once or twice a year. It takes about 8 cans but really stops rust from forming.
This looks like the winner. Hoping to transfer my not-so-old bearing to a new steering knuckle. I know the old one came out in one piece (and that was rusted, and abused out)
love how all these UA-cam videos are working on cars with clean bolts and bearing. mine were rusted and stripped very easily. need a northern cold weather salted roads version lol
Rusty NY is probably just as bad as rusty OH! I know your pain brother. It will work! Read the comments of all the successful removals. When all else fails, you'll wish you had tried this hours before!
@@goproguy7844 It didn't work. When I tightened the bolt, it split the bearing. The lug part fell off. The back piece was stuck on. I had an awful time. I spent hours. I finally drove wood chisels in the cracks. When they were wide enough, I hammered in a cold chisel and pry bar. I worked my way around until it finally popped out. What a nightmare that turned out to be.
The "plate" is the dust shield. Just keeps brake dust from interacting with brake parts. This will vary by manufacturer, or in some cases not even exist.
I wouldn't use any abrasive wheel like that on that wheel bearing housing. It can slightly change dimensions ever so slightly. Wire brush is fine but not abrasion dremmel or rotary tools. Same with ball joint housings.
If you haven't got the tow bar to screw over the wheel stud for the final removal of the bearing then you can bolt the wheel back on and wiggle the wheel, it comes off with ease. That's how I do it.
Good Job my man!!!! I replaced one on a 2003 Dodge Ram and I swear I beat on that thing with a sledge hammer until I was blue in the face. I eventually got it off. So I really learned something watching this video........ Fantastic Job!!!!!!!!!
Tried this for the first time on my Subaru Outback, rear wheels, no luck. No place where the bolt wasn't landing on the hubs own flange or at such a bad angle it just wasn't cutting it. Had to go to the welding table and make a hub buster from an old brake rotor and a piece of 2.5x heavy wall square tube. This probably would have worked on the front wheels.
This trick doesn't always work. I tried it to remove a stuck rotor. Two bolts pushing and a four-pound coaxing hammer couldn't get it loose. A gear and bearing puller set is $35 at Harbor Freight, and that made short work of it. Well worth the investment.
Maybe I got super lucky but my process was not this complicated. I put a pipe wrench on the top of the bearing and dropped a sledge hammer straight down onto the wrench handle. Came out in one try, maybe I got lucky but the thing was covered in rust and has been for almost 20 years
Neat trick but this guy is not good at repairing vehicles. First of all he should use a real hammer. Probably wouldn't have needed to use the bolt trick. Second, he should torque the axle nut to manufacturer's spec. The bearings need the proper preload for longevity.
I have used a slide hammer just because I had one laying around. It was a little slow, but it worked. Much better than a sledgehammer that you never seem to be able to swing good underneath a car.
@@edwardashley6688 - sledge hammers work much better if the vehicle is on a lift. It's a real pain to use it while on the ground. Especially at my age.
Good question! 2" may work, 3" will probably work for every application. There's no harm in having a little longer bolt. Take a lug nut to the hardware store - make sure your HARDENED bolt (& nut) is smaller diameter than your wheel studs. So the bolt you buy needs to fit through the lug nut without hitting threads. That doesn't mean an 1/8" bolt will work. Make sure it's as wide as possible - but still needs to fit through the stud hole in your bearing / hub assembly. Good luck!
Once you get that initial break loose you can often hammer a flathead screwdriver in between the hub and knuckle and break it loose that way. Or simply do what the pros do and take an air hammer to it.
Or use a 4 lbs sledge hammer on the hub face and save your flatheads to break elsewhere. I work in the rustbelt and some of these hubs are a real MF'er to get out of the knuckles.
I tried removing the large nut at the end of the shaft once and noticed it had an area where it looked like it was “punched” into a recess. Does that sound familiar? And how to you go about that? Is it an optical illusion, does it need punched or knocked back to round or does the rotation take care of it? Definitely a different model vehicle but your removal of that nut reminded me of my previous issue. Thanks.
That's a safety feature to stop the nut unwinding. When installing, once the nut is tight you use a punch to bend the tabs into the recesses. When removing the nut you do the reverse so you can remove the nut.
Nice! People if you are going to work on your own vehicles get yourself a strong and good impact wrench and a 5 pound sledge hammer!!! It's save soooo much time!! You can change one of those bearings in half the time!!! Work smarter not harder...
This technique is worth a try but for stubborn one, it will likely just pull it apart. I had to take the steering knuckle off and beat the hell out of it get it out. Ideally a hydraulic press would have been ideal, but I don’t have one.
The bolt holding the rotor on can be easily removed with a 3/8" drive impact driver. It keeps from damaging them and the socket when removing them. Oh yeah, and a little penetrating oil goes a long way too. lol Tekton part number 2905 is the tool. Best 20 bucks you will spend.
Bolt and nut idea works great IF you have a good surface to push against, much better to use High quality FINE thread bolt and nut with plenty of Moly Lubricant on the threads
I have a 2015 Ford transit I have the same problem but the rotor does not come off unless the hub assembly is off first. I do not know what to do any help will be great.
I tried everything just before i gave up I just put the rotor back on for leverage and put a 2/6 piece of wood cut to size to the frame and rotor turned on the car and turned the wheel till it popped and did the other side of the rotor till that popped and it came right off
How big was the hole you made in the soft aluminium steering knuckle not to mention the dust shield, if the bearing is stuck very bad the hub will pull out of the bearing and you will end up with the bearing still stuck in the steering knuckle also the this method pull on one side and might crack the steering knuckle.
Even for the most stuck hubs, the bolt may make an 1/8" or so imprint dimple, but it won't be significant. The video recommends pulling from multiple sides to balance the extraction angle. And yes - the bearing could pull out of the hub with the hub stuck in the knuckle - but you'd have that problem no matter what method you planned to remove it. If that happens, the hub has to be tapped, cut or pressed out of the knuckle (or replace the entire knuckle).
Your bolt trick was the solution we needed. Nothing else we tried worked. We did end up removing 3 lug bolts and using 3 hardened bolts for the removal. That allowed us to quickly distribute the load as we were pulling it off. We were working on a 2012 Ford Flex. The galvanic corrosion between the aluminum knuckle and the steel bearing is terrible here in Michigan. Thank you.
Yup - I'm a neighbor to your south. The struggle is real!
Great method, I'll use it next time I do this job and the hub is hard to move. One thing though, when I got my first car as a teenager, my dad taught me to never use a carpenter's hammer on auto work as they're designed to drive soft nails only. He advised me to buy a set of quality engineers ball pein hammers, which I did and they're still going strong 55 years later. Just new handles on a couple.
We have enough lock tight in Canada, it’s called road salt. All bolts are always locked tight! 🤣
Yup, never used lock tight on salt belt cars, especially Quebec.
I am very happy to report that this method works - and my 2006 GM vehicle (rear-wheel drive) has 120,000 Chicagoland miles. It also has an aluminum suspension knuckle that had a ferocious grip on the hub assembly/wheel bearing. I had PB Blasted it and beat it with a sledge and driven a couple flat head screwdrivers into the few spots where the hub wasn't melded to the dust shield - all to no avail.
Then I tried this Bolt Trick. A crack opened on top; rotated outer hub ~180 degrees and cranked down the pusher bolt again and another crack opened; banged on the hub's backside with a small slege and that SOB popped out!
To other newbies reading this, there's 3 key factors, per my experience:
1. Use a *hardened* (grade 8) bolt and nut, as GoProGuy
said (3:30- 7:45 in the video).
2. Use a 6-point impact socket.
3. Use a breaker bar (mine was ~14")
P.S. My hub already had an open hole, so I didn't have to remove any studs before starting.
Muchas Gracias Amigo!
De nada!! YESSSSS! Another win! Yeah - it really works! Glad this video added to your success!
This Vedio was meant for me to see, I'm in the process of trying to remove a front wheel bearing off of a 2003 Ford Taurus . I've seen some other methods, but, this the most smoothes, and sensible way to do the Job . Thank You !
Appreciate the video here sir. I currently own a 2006 Expedition that is having wheel bearing issues so I will be doing this very job in the near future. Well done sir! And many thanks for an instructional video.
Great video ! 2001 GMC Sierra with 350K miles and both front hubs were badly rusted in place. This method worked in just a few minutes (after getting grade 8 bolts). Lots of cleanup inside knuckle to make sure new ones fit properly but this was a lifesaver. Thank you for the info.
This was an absolute awesome video! Thanks for sharing and making our lives easier with this trick! 🤘😎
Glad to share the knowledge and save your neighbors from an ear full of obscenities. I had plenty of those flying around until I figured this out.
don't put lock tight on the bolts
Just used your method (bolt and the larger spacer nut) on a 6 year old salt belt Ford Explorer front hub. Worked where beating it to death with a hammer never would have. Cheers and thanks!
Great instructional video and excellent filming. Well done sir!
Was having a hell of a time trying to get mine off I tried everything beeting the hell out of it I even went to auto zone to rent a tool and that didn't work either I seen ur video got an old nut and built of of shed and I'll be godamed if that dam thing just didn't pop right off lol it truly helped me for sure and many others thank you
Fantastic ! Tremendous camera shots , clear concise descriptions , perfect pace . Definitely a valuable resource you produced for us ! Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge !! 👊🏼🔥
Glad the video helped. Best wishes.
Great idea, will give it a try now. Tried most everything else already. Thanks!
I tried all kinds of other tips to get the hub off - and none of them worked. But this one did! I had to remove 2 studs and use 2 bolts to make it work. I used 3"-long, 1/2"-diameter, grade 5 bolts from Home Depot. Thanks!
Thanks, GoPro Guy.
This video was helpful and also well crafted.
Amazing old school trick that I totally forgot about. Thank you
Used grade 8 hardened bolts and nuts + plenty of PB Blaster. NEVER EVER came loose that easily. And yes the steering knuckles were aluminum. Cannot believe how aluminum corrosion “locks” that wheel bearing in place. Been doing this for years. Tried heat, slide hammer and a home made buster tool. ALWAYS A PITA JOB !!!
Slide hammer is worthless when it comes to aluminum corrosion.
@@Kiddro22
They can be useless with the standard sized hammer, but can be made very effective if you upsize the weights..
Still, the jackscrew method is much better.
it worked FANTASTICLY. I pretty darn sure i could have beat on the assembly for a month and still it wouldn't come off. In fact I'd probably have bent the shield plate in to a ball, and have only removed the assembly chip by chip. 7/16" GRADE 8 bolt x around 2" long and Grade 8 nut fit in nicely (with the larger bolt as a spacer). It took quite a while to little by little break things loose as i moved the bolt around to wherever i could find an available flat spot (only 2 spots, barely found a 3rd). Had to move around to the different spots about 4 times each and spray in rust/corrosion penetrant constantly, and then could hit with heavy hammer to break things more loose, then a couple bangs on the spindle ..... FINALLY it came off. Thank you for the tip!!
So glad it worked! Would have loved to see your face when it started moving. I know I've had moments of epiphany when things finally worked the way they're supposed to also!
Definitely worked. Bought two bolts but only used one. The down side is the 10 minutes it took to grind off a bolt on the old hub (which is why I only used one of the bolts, and spun the wheel around to the opposite side). On my wife's Ford Edge, the margins were tight, and the knuckle is covered by a sheet metal dust cover (I just targeted a position on the cover next to the small bolts holding that cover in place, i.e. it's a hard point, put the end of the grade 8 bolt right next to it). Difficult to fit the grade 8 bolt,washers, spacing bolt, and grade 8 nut (used 3/8") in place between the hub and knuckle. But no comparison to the effort of removing that hub without that bolt and nut, or a proper press. Oh, and I used an air impact wrench to crank the bolt in on the outside, and a boxed end wrench to hold the bearing nut in place behind the hub wheel. Made very short work of it. (I tried the other trick of using a towing receiver without the ball, but no luck. Mine was probably too short for proper leverage.)
Glad it worked! Hardest part is running to the store to get a proper sized grade 8 bolt, nut & washers.
Good vid, thumbs up here, if your planning on replacing the rotors you can bolt one one backwards to give a large surface to whack on.
Underrated comment !
Great video thank you. Keep them videos rolling. Well explained and showed every step.
Goodness!!
🍔🍔
Great tip. Worked super well. I did two bolts opposite and tightened back and forth. Slipped right out after a satisfying pop
What size bolt did you use
Thanks for this video, this worked when nothing else did.
Very clear and well shown. Nice video.
Thank you so much that has to be one of the best videos I've ever seen on UA-cam about a wheel bearing
Awesome mechanic skills!! Ty. The most effective video!
Glad it helped
Thanks, I used this method on an Opel Astra J front bearing, and it works. I forgot to buy hardened bolts, so I broke three 10 mm normal bolts, but I took only 30 minutes to remove the old bearing.
Glad it worked! Hardened bolts make a substantial difference.
Great idea to use a hitch. I suppose if you attached it so it sits on tighter, you could use the leverage of the long end.
I have seen videos of people hammering away like mad at the seized wheel bearing. Must be definitely doing damage to the car.
Your method is meticulous but better. 👍
Super well done and an excellent cheat! Will be be changing the two front bearings on my 2012 Dodge Ram 1500.
I'm glad I found your video today. Took me three days of heating that damnit thing up with a mixture of transmission fluid and acetone (listening to ChrisFix🤫)
After seeing the way you tackled that job with confidence and not even using anti-seize gave me a huge jolt of confidence. Thank you 😊
Glad it helped!
You could also finish off the rotor and brake caliper with Red Rustoleum primer to galvanize, cure the rust and make it look good; works on all surface rusts similar! :)
Awesome! I had a Porsche cayenne the other day that gave me hell with the rear wheel bearing, this would of most likely made my day easier.
ANYTHING Porsche is a pta to work on.
Your neat trick worked for me today. The hub was rusted into place but I modified a steering wheel puller to act like the bolt/nut combo in your video. When enough strain was on the side of the bolt I had to use a screwdriver on the other side, driven into the crack with an 8 pound sledge. Alternately tightening the bolt and pounding with the screwdriver/sledge got the hub moving and in a few minutes it was out!
Already subscribed. Hope you can teach us more tricks . Amazing job .
This worked awesome on a old sierra! Really saved me a lot of time. My 4lb sledge hammer didn't have a chance. I used a socket as a spacer and a 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt.
Another victory! Glad it worked!!!
Good video and thanks for posting. I have some constructive feedback for you. @1:29 you say to pound on the nut and not the shaft. This is an easy way to destroy the threads on the shaft. The shaft is actually designed to take a beating. If you look at @2:30 you will see the first millimeter does not have thread and that section is actually tapered inward. This is to accommodate any slight mushrooming. The best way is to use a pointed chisel with a hammer or air hammer. The dimple in the center of the shaft is to accept that chisels point.
Again, great job.
An air hammer is great, but I didn't have a compressor. I've seen plenty of axle shafts mushroom right past the blank 5mm. I recommend keeping the nut on. Don't hit that axle shaft without a nut on it - or you'll learn fast when you then need to replace an otherwise perfectly good CV joint because you can't thread a new axle nut onto it!
@@goproguy7844 If I have hit the axle shaft, I usually keep the bolt on and put a small section of 2 x 4 lumber on it and hit that to avoid damage... but this may not work on every car because shaft has to be sticking out a bit.
Saved the day! Worked for me on a rust belt Subaru Impreza
Put the rotor back on backwards after spraying down with break free. Use the rotor and the extra leverage it applies to strike with a sledge.
I would recommend removing at least 2-3 of the studs and use those holes as well. The reason is by merely rotating the wheel bearing and using the same hole you aren't truly pulling evenly in the bearing. All the force is still concentrated in the same area of the bearing. 3 stud holes would be the best.
The stuck part doesn't rotate. So it is valid to rotate the wheel to pull at different spots.
@sexiewasd - that's the way we like it!!! The rear ones on Ford Explorers are the absolute worst hubs to try to get off. Even when the things were under warranty, they were hell to remove especially for the 0.7 hours it paid.
Also, don't use antiseize, if anything use locktite. You don't want it coming off easier. Wheel bearings as of about 2005s'ish are designed to last 100k miles. Ever which, you'll need to replace them again. So yes, you'll replace it again, so why locktite, because you don't want the axle nut to loosen as you drive. The rotor and wheel could come off while driving, and antiseize would make it easier to happen. By the time you hear symptoms of a bad bearing occuring it may be too late. Locktite will make sure that bearing stays on even if it full seized.
What happens if a bearing fails? Two things: it either locks your wheel up. That left or right tire stops turning while the others do. The bearing stops rotating but doesn't break apart or come out. Or the second thing is the bearing seized, stops rotating but it slides along the axle, shoving the nut out the way and there goes your wheel. Antiseize can make the route of pushing the nut off easier than stopping the wheel.
A lot of factors come into play here. A lot. You could damage CV joints, CV axles, transmission gear/syncos, damage from wheel bearings damage other suspension and steering components etc etc
This video is great! Just I personally, and highly recommend not using antiseize in this situation.
Your life or your transmission?
@@ChipperTheChipster I think he’s only talking about putting antiseize on the surface where the knuckle and bearing housing meet. That way they are less likely to be stuck on when replacing in the future. He did mention putting loctite on all the bolts though. The antiseize on the outside of the bearing housing has nothing to do with the bolts holding it in place, so there is no danger at all.
The old bearing is being tossed, so not pulling evenly is not an issue since damaging a useless part has no consequences.
Best wheel bearing vid. by far !"
great instruction.
great instructor ..
Thanks for the kind words!
Thank you much! Never have seen this approach but it worked great!!
Wow! Just wow. I will be trying this weekend for sure
Nicely done. The only thing I might add is spend the couple extra bucks and buy two more hardened bolts and take out 3 studs. Saves time.
Thank you very much what a good video you made it very clear and easy job to do, thank you, thank you!
Always remove the ABS sensor probe from the housing or you risk damaging it and your ABS light will come on.
Exactly!!! In a rush I forgot to do so and now I have to replace my abs sensor. Dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree.
Agreed! That’s a good point!
depends on the type of hub it has.
Dude has a sweet Dremel kit and not afraid to use it
Excellent. Thank you for the video.
Awesome teaching. Thanks.
Great video! Can I offer a suggestion? Next time you get a new car, use lanolin grease (Woolwax is the best) and spray the bottom of your car once or twice a year. It takes about 8 cans but really stops rust from forming.
Unfortunately, I bought this one when it was 12 years old and full of salty rust underneath. Body is still fine though!
Super video and trick...thanks for sharing!
This looks like the winner. Hoping to transfer my not-so-old bearing to a new steering knuckle. I know the old one came out in one piece (and that was rusted, and abused out)
love how all these UA-cam videos are working on cars with clean bolts and bearing. mine were rusted and stripped very easily. need a northern cold weather salted roads version lol
This one was NE Ohio. Lots of rust on this and the bolts were certainly not clean! Look at the old bearing / hub - a rust belt standard!
I got a completely frozen wheel hub and did everything to get the MF off. This is the only trick that worked! Thanks so much
Glad it helped!
Very nice presentation. Thank you!
Very nice. I hope mine comes off as easy as yours in rusty NY. Good tips.
Rusty NY is probably just as bad as rusty OH! I know your pain brother. It will work! Read the comments of all the successful removals. When all else fails, you'll wish you had tried this hours before!
@@goproguy7844 It didn't work. When I tightened the bolt, it split the bearing. The lug part fell off. The back piece was stuck on. I had an awful time. I spent hours. I finally drove wood chisels in the cracks. When they were wide enough, I hammered in a cold chisel and pry bar. I worked my way around until it finally popped out. What a nightmare that turned out to be.
Well done. Good Jack of All Trades info here. much appreciated.
Thank you for a very detailed video! What is the other rusty piece that looks like a part of a plate?
The "plate" is the dust shield. Just keeps brake dust from interacting with brake parts. This will vary by manufacturer, or in some cases not even exist.
That's so informative I love your instructions it's straight forward in step by step how to make it a bit simpler thanks.
Glad I could help!!
I wouldn't use any abrasive wheel like that on that wheel bearing housing. It can slightly change dimensions ever so slightly. Wire brush is fine but not abrasion dremmel or rotary tools. Same with ball joint housings.
If you haven't got the tow bar to screw over the wheel stud for the final removal of the bearing then you can bolt the wheel back on and wiggle the wheel, it comes off with ease. That's how I do it.
You’re a life saver! Thank you! ❤🎉😂
Genius !"
Thank you FRIEND!"
Worked like a charm on Toyota Prius rear. Thanks!!!
Great to hear!
It worked!!!!! Cracked the knuckle in the process. Which is my fault. But it worked great…
Very smart! Thanks for sharing
Good Job my man!!!! I replaced one on a 2003 Dodge Ram and I swear I beat on that thing with a sledge hammer until I was blue in the face. I eventually got it off. So I really learned something watching this video........ Fantastic Job!!!!!!!!!
Those thing are a pain in the rear.
Tried this for the first time on my Subaru Outback, rear wheels, no luck. No place where the bolt wasn't landing on the hubs own flange or at such a bad angle it just wasn't cutting it. Had to go to the welding table and make a hub buster from an old brake rotor and a piece of 2.5x heavy wall square tube. This probably would have worked on the front wheels.
This trick doesn't always work. I tried it to remove a stuck rotor. Two bolts pushing and a four-pound coaxing hammer couldn't get it loose. A gear and bearing puller set is $35 at Harbor Freight, and that made short work of it. Well worth the investment.
Need a video on this
puller works great would never use the bolt trick against alloy components , bolt idea pulls uneven $35. well worth it.
Great video. Thanks!
Maybe I got super lucky but my process was not this complicated. I put a pipe wrench on the top of the bearing and dropped a sledge hammer straight down onto the wrench handle. Came out in one try, maybe I got lucky but the thing was covered in rust and has been for almost 20 years
You know someone doesn't work on cars for a living when they're using a claw hammer on a vehicle 😂
left my dead blow hammer at work. I'm a carpenter too, so that had to do at the time. I'm guilty of using inappropriate tools for jobs too often!
This saved my A** well done & thank you.
Why would anyone thumbs down this? Good video.
Neat trick but this guy is not good at repairing vehicles. First of all he should use a real hammer. Probably wouldn't have needed to use the bolt trick. Second, he should torque the axle nut to manufacturer's spec. The bearings need the proper preload for longevity.
@@meabob and you can see he has cheap tools, Always should have impact sockets
Whiners you do a video
Great video , very helpful
Awesome thanks I really appreciate the help 👍
That's how I get rotors off if they're really stuck and I'm not replacing the rotors. For some reason, I never even thought to use it for hubs!
I would have put anti seize on axle splines as well, Great Video, Great Idea.
I think he did
I would have used triple the amount he used
I use that stuff like most people use lotion. Keeps my skin supple and shiny. Cheers.
looks like the best method of all i seen on UA-cam University
... did you ever try a slide hammer?
I have used a slide hammer just because I had one laying around. It was a little slow, but it worked. Much better than a sledgehammer that you never seem to be able to swing good underneath a car.
@@edwardashley6688 - sledge hammers work much better if the vehicle is on a lift. It's a real pain to use it while on the ground. Especially at my age.
Thank you for sharing! Great video…. Obviously you are very skilled!!!
awesome- thank you
Glad I found this video. What length bolt are you using? I may need to go to this method tomorrow.
Good question! 2" may work, 3" will probably work for every application. There's no harm in having a little longer bolt. Take a lug nut to the hardware store - make sure your HARDENED bolt (& nut) is smaller diameter than your wheel studs. So the bolt you buy needs to fit through the lug nut without hitting threads. That doesn't mean an 1/8" bolt will work. Make sure it's as wide as possible - but still needs to fit through the stud hole in your bearing / hub assembly. Good luck!
Thanks for the great advise
Once you get that initial break loose you can often hammer a flathead screwdriver in between the hub and knuckle and break it loose that way. Or simply do what the pros do and take an air hammer to it.
Or use a 4 lbs sledge hammer on the hub face and save your flatheads to break elsewhere. I work in the rustbelt and some of these hubs are a real MF'er to get out of the knuckles.
I tried removing the large nut at the end of the shaft once and noticed it had an area where it looked like it was “punched” into a recess. Does that sound familiar? And how to you go about that? Is it an optical illusion, does it need punched or knocked back to round or does the rotation take care of it? Definitely a different model vehicle but your removal of that nut reminded me of my previous issue. Thanks.
That's a safety feature to stop the nut unwinding. When installing, once the nut is tight you use a punch to bend the tabs into the recesses. When removing the nut you do the reverse so you can remove the nut.
What size is the screw you have driving in with the nut?
Great idea.
Nice job! Use an impact gun instead of a rachet. It zips it off.
Nice! People if you are going to work on your own vehicles get yourself a strong and good impact wrench and a 5 pound sledge hammer!!! It's save soooo much time!!
You can change one of those bearings in half the time!!!
Work smarter not harder...
This technique is worth a try but for stubborn one, it will likely just pull it apart. I had to take the steering knuckle off and beat the hell out of it get it out. Ideally a hydraulic press would have been ideal, but I don’t have one.
Great video. You saved my life
Yes! Another victory! Glad it worked! Thanks for the comment!
excellent job ✌✌✌✌
The bolt holding the rotor on can be easily removed with a 3/8" drive impact driver. It keeps from damaging them and the socket when removing them. Oh yeah, and a little penetrating oil goes a long way too. lol Tekton part number 2905 is the tool. Best 20 bucks you will spend.
Bolt and nut idea works great IF you have a good surface to push against, much better to use High quality FINE thread bolt and nut with plenty of Moly Lubricant on the threads
I have a 2015 Ford transit I have the same problem but the rotor does not come off unless the hub assembly is off first. I do not know what to do any help will be great.
That would have come out with some love taps with a BFH
There you go! Now you have a damaged anti splash guard!
Always spin ir new bearing make sure its free and smooth
There is NO SUCH SIZE called a T-31 .....
It is either a T for Torx 27, 30, or 35
I tried everything just before i gave up I just put the rotor back on for leverage and put a 2/6 piece of wood cut to size to the frame and rotor turned on the car and turned the wheel till it popped and did the other side of the rotor till that popped and it came right off
How big was the hole you made in the soft aluminium steering knuckle not to mention the dust shield, if the bearing is stuck very bad the hub will pull out of the bearing and you will end up with the bearing still stuck in the steering knuckle also the this method pull on one side and might crack the steering knuckle.
Even for the most stuck hubs, the bolt may make an 1/8" or so imprint dimple, but it won't be significant. The video recommends pulling from multiple sides to balance the extraction angle. And yes - the bearing could pull out of the hub with the hub stuck in the knuckle - but you'd have that problem no matter what method you planned to remove it. If that happens, the hub has to be tapped, cut or pressed out of the knuckle (or replace the entire knuckle).