How to Replace Rear Wheel Bearing 10-14 Subaru Outback
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
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New Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASH...
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a worn out, vibrating or groaning wheel bearing hub. This video is applicable to the 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, Subaru Outback.
🔧 List of tools used:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/ofj/1AX...
• 14mm Wrench 1aau.to/okw/1AX...
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/oJc/1AX...
• 14mm Socket 1aau.to/oPr/1AX...
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/om2/1AX...
• 32mm Socket 1aau.to/oL/1AAS...
• Blowtorch
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oia/1AX...
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oia/1AX...
• Side Cutters
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/ohD/1AX...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oZ7/1AX...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/oPr/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/op9/1AX...
• Rust Penetrant
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/ooA/1AX...
• Hammer 1aau.to/ohV/1AX...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/ooK/1AX...
• Rubber Mallet 1aau.to/o9/1AXA...
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/bFu/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. - Авто та транспорт
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As far as instruction video goes, this one can not be made better. It is about wheel bearing replacement, but it is so much more than that! It covers unforeseen obstacles and ways to deal with those scenarios. Len is not only clear and thorough, his humor cracked me up!
Although I am a Certified UA-cam Automotive Mechanic, this video helped me realize that based on my time constraints, this isn’t a job I’m going to attempt myself today. Well done.
Glad someone finally showed battling rust. Too many of these how-to videos are with rust-free cars. Thank you for also listing torque specs in the video as well.
Doing this job was THE most nightmarish car repair I’ve ever done. I tried an 8 lb hammer, rented a slide hammer, and finally had to heat it cherry red. I was pretty sure it was going to beat me, but I finally won.
I wish this video was up last year. Great job. By the way, I used a cheap bearing and it is now rumbling like hell. I’m replacing it tomorrow. Bummer!
I really appreciate the attention to detail for the repair with respect to torque specs; use of anti seize, cleaners, lubricants, etc. Also impressive is his commitment to safety, wearing all appropriate protective equipment and precautions taken to avoid any collateral damage. Demonstrating the ability to make the repair with common tools rather than power or air tools is especially helpful for backyard mechanics without access to the professional shop tools.
+Mark Logan Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Not only are these videos super helpful and thorough, the guys in them always have great screen presence. It always feels like I'm hanging out with a buddy who's delighted to show me how to fix my car.
One of the best mechanics I have seen on UA-cam. I had a bearing that was extremely hard to get out and thought it was pressed in. I went "Babe Ruth" on it and got it done! Thanks!
+Real Life Church Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Thank you so much. My axle was frozen in there and I had to borrow a hub puller from AutoZone and it came loose easily. The hub was really stuck. I beat on it for at least a half hour and it finally came loose. You video is sooo informative! It made the rest of my job much easier. I did both of my rear wheel bearings and it took me close to 7 hours. It is a time consuming job. But I’m glad I did it myself knowing you gave excellent instruction. 👍🏻👍🏻
thank you for your car fixing in real life. most of the video never showed the problems people could encounter in real situation.
+Charles L Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I just did both rears and one front on my 2011 outback in New Jersey yesterday. Took me quite a long time cuz those things were really seized in there. Another idea similar to what you were doing at the 10-minute mark is to pop the studs out of the bearing you are replacing, grind a bit off and clean the threads on the end, and thread them into the bearing from the front into the hub itself. Then I ground a 7/16 bolt down for clearance put it in the back of the hub and beat against the bolts that were inserted from the front. Instead of using the air hammer on the original bolts and possibly screwing them up, I was able to use a sledgehammer and a long grade 5 bolt as a drift to beat the bearing out from the back.
Watching him finally get that wheel bearing off and I almost jumped outta my seat. It was like watching a batter constantly foul off pitches in the bottom of the 9th, 2 outs and the go ahead run on 3rd. Definitely the best “how-to video” I’ve ever watched.
So did this job today. Hammering on the hub sucked. So I went and got the 3 jaw hub puller. Tightened it down as much as I could. 2 whacks popped off like champagne. Highly recommend this method. Good luck.
I did one of these nightmares on a 2015 Outback. Mine pulled apart with a slide hammer. Ive read, remove the speed sensor with penetrate first, and leave the axle nut on while using the slide hammer and it wont pull apart... worthwhile tip. I finally resorted to removing the knucke from the car, put it in a 20 ton press, had to heat it with a torch around the hub, and then hitbit with an air impact on several sides before the thing would budge. What a nightmare this design is. Good luck to anyone living in a salt area and doing this at home.
Great video! Encountered every problem along the way as did I. Made my job a little less frustrating. He walked me through it all the way. Bought my wheel bearing from 1A because of this video. Thank you!
+Mark Helms Thanks for the feedback!
Many thanks and applauds to the guys at 1A Auto!
After watching this video, I bought a set of rear bearing hubs, and in less than 3 hours in my home garage, saved myself $560 that local shops wanted to charge me for this!
Awesome work gentlemen!
I appreciate your struggles in this. Way more valuable than a video where everything goes right.
+@user-em6td3xj1w Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
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Often these repair videos show a "best case scenario" so it was nice to see more of a real world example of how the car can give you a hard time. It should be mentioned that when changing brakes to do both sides of the car
+Matt Thanks for the feedback!
it showed that this subie is a rust bucket.
Real repair work. Sometimes it get ugly.
Persistence!
The only suggestion is used a Dremel to clean up the rusty knuckle.
Without a doubt, the best automotive how to video I have seen on UA-cam. Kudos.
One thing, when I saw you hitting with that hammer I knew it was too small, I learned to just grab the 10lb sledge when doing the ball joints on my F250 Power stroke.
I used it on the wife's Sube, and knocked it free in two blows.
Exactly what i needed, thanks for going through even the tiny steps which many Tubers miss and they are often the details we need to see.
Just replaced one of mine today. Couldn’t have done it without this video! Mine was not as rusted on As yours but I took everything off preemptively knowing that it was going to be tough. Also definitely just beat the tar out of it with a hammer to get it off
Appreciate the video. Replaced the rear bearing in my kid's car
after watching your video. Took 30 minutes of sledge hammer
aerobics to get it out. Video is good to go and appreciate it.
+f d Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
When it comes time to do the other side, use a slid hammer and hub puller attachment. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the bearing assembly, put the slide hammer on the hub and give it a solid wack, it usually takes 2-3 hits and the bearing assembly pops right out. If you don’t have a slide hammer you can barrow on from your local auto parts store.
@@michaeljacques7336 Good tip Michael. I plan on using a hub puller/slide hammer loaner when I try this on my 2016 Forester. The car has 75k and has been driven in a state that salts the roads (Connecticut). Is the slide hammer likely going to break the hub free of the knuckle or just separate the bearing?
I really enjoyed this presentation. Actually showed real time issues that always seem to come up when doing these type of jobs. Wow.. I liked this guys presentation, he explained each step of the process and more importantly how to worked through each issue that came up. Plus, he also shared the torque specs which many "how to" videos do not. Great Job.. Bud" Thank You A1 Auto
+Ernesto Hinojosa Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
As a flag rate technician, I am taking the time to sit down and write this comment during the work day.
This video gave me so much hope and inspiration to just hammer the s*** out of the hub. My whole assembly fell apart and the part with the studs came apart so just the mounting portion was stuck. Just taking a hammer to the hub I ended up getting it out, but it came with a cost….let us all take a moment of silence for Betsy (my 7lb sledgehammer) who sacrificed herself for this job to get done. Thank you TRQ for the “if I can do it, you can too” video. Truly an inspiration
Greatly appreciate the full disclosure regarding what it takes to get a badly rusted bearing off. Once I got the hammer out I was able to get some success. I did soak the area heavily with rust penetration fluid. As soon as it moved ever so slightly and the penetration fluid got a chance to get in behind the bearing, a few blows got the bearing out. After surface cleaning reassembly with the new bearing took minutes.
+Michael Zinnikas Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Thanks for seeing this through to the end Len! This project is typical for those of us who live in the Rust Belt.
I watched a lot of wheel bearing removal videos and this is the method that finally worked. Tried the bolt through the lug nut hole but just ended up starting to pull the wheel bearing apart and deforming the expensive high strength bolt. Finally just pounded enough with a sledge hammer like in the video and it came free. Thanks!
This is one of the best videos I have ever watched, not only for the detail but the laughing factor, too bad you can't double or trickle like.
I really like that you kept this real! Thanks.
Thank you! I was able to get both rear hubs out and new ones installed. It took FIVE DAYS.
Thansk Len - Awesome video!
Perfect level of information & encouragement along the way!
You are my new best friend after watching this 5 - 6 times.
Thanks for the little bits of humor, personality and encouragement throughout.
My Vermont bearings on a 2012 Outback battlewagon were locked up really tight.
I was pounding for a hour with a tiny 1 pounder, and an air hammer for about an hour the first day.
After letting the PB blaster sit overnight, I took off the lug bolts and rigged up a box channel at perpendicular to the hub surface with a bolt thru it and went "Babe Ruth" with a 3lb sledge hammer.
Bearings came out with some addition wiggling.
And thanks for the torque specs during reassembly.
+Brett Philips this is excellent feedback, thank you! We're happy this video was able to get you through your install, this is why we do it! We're always making new videos, so keep stopping by for more.
Great tutorial. I like how you worked through the problems. Gives me the confidence to work through it.
Huge help for our 2012 Impreza. Glad I had a lot less hammer work than you! Four blows with a 10lb BFH Dust shield came off with just a wiggle by hand.
+Christian C Thanks for checking us out!
The most "sincere" video in the net..nothing was easy but he showed us how to succeed.. Also The constant safety reminders (with humor) and reinforcing fundamental knowledge is commendable, taking nothing for granted....
+Grampy Meyer Thanks for checking us out and the positive feedback! 1AAuto.com
You saved my dad $100s if not over a grand. Thank you. I'm not a mechanic, but I replaced half of his suspension
All videos should be this good. Perfect instruction. Thank you!
This video saved my a#@ big time. Got the wheel bearing off no problem but transferring the new parking brake hardware over to my new backing plate was a nightmare until I watched this. Great video. Nobody is showing this in such great detail., especially the parking brake parts and springs. Thanks.
PRO TIP 2 - If the backer plate comes off with the hub still in it, and you are working on the ground, you can take a couple of 4x4s or a couple 6x6s and set the hub in between those with the lugs down and then pound on the back with a hammer. It makes it a lot easier. Also use a deadblow hammer.
Damn man, that's perseverance! I'd rec ordering the backing plate too and replacing it just so you don't have to fight it as well. But, GREAT video to show how hard a job it really is. That's why shops charge five hondo to do it.
+Angel Negron Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
So happy he added in how to put the brake shoe back on, I really needed that.
+TheSuperSaiyanGoku1 Thanks for checking us out!
Great instruction in explaining the step by step process with the possible issues that may arise. Thanks Len. Good job! Stay Safe.
Excellent video. Strange thing, this is the bearing I just did on my ‘06 OB. Great videos thanks very much.
Ok... that was excellent!! Now I know what to do with the wife's car. I'll be looking for more videos from your mechanic. Thanks again!
+Ghost Roach Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Very good video showing real world challenges. Enough that I decided this job not for me but that’s cool too.
Man after seeing what you went through im scared to try on mine in a regular garage with no specialty tools... Great job of muscling through it and not refilming it and showing the struggle is real!
1A auto iiiiiiiis my proffessional mechanic!
one of the best informational videos i have come across, thanks.
You the man. I have been dreading replacing my kids bearings. the all have Subaru's.
Thank you. I will be doing my wife's 2012 legacy this weekend. Very informative. 👍
Beautiful instructions, clear and to the point!
Thank you for confirming I'm just gonna pay to have this done. Great presentation.
He said your enjoying this arent you right as I started to giggle. Made me laugh more.
Love the video. A real world application especially if your subie resides on the northeast, expect to be doing some whacking!
This is the best A1 video ever.
Another professionally completed job. You’re amazing man. Godbless and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
+J F Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks. Helped me a lot with my repair today. Just like to mention that the "wheel bearing" is actually a hub replacement. With a seized hub flange 25 mm into the knuckle you are not going to get to replace the the bearing.Take off the e brake shoes? Of course. I had to do some hammering. Just a 3 lb. Better to alternate blows top, bottom, left and right to slowly work the hub out of the knuckle. The old hub was not reusable.
Save time and effort by not removing the caliper. Just take off the bracket with the caliper. Just grease for anti seize. Thanks.
+Gary Martin Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Very helpful video. Changed mine after watching. Luckily the hub assembly came right off on my 2014.
+Nick Brock Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
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Good job. Surely makes it look easy. Thanks for the help.
PRO TIP - If the hub is stuck, which it probably is, you can use a cold chisel to wedge in between the knuckle and the back plate. You have to be careful but this works really well. If you can work it out just a hair first it works even better.
It was worth the catharsis of watching someone else bash away on one of these f**king hubs.
In my case, some bashing got me to the point where I could twist the backing plate a little, so the through holes in the backing plate no longer aligned with the threaded holes in the hub. At that point, I inserted the four mounting bolts in the hub from the outside, and used them like jack screws to force the hub out. It's similar to the way you can use jack screws to back out a drum that's stuck on.
By the way, one of the approaches I also tried was using a slide hammer attached to the lug studs. Unfortunately, that ends up disassembling the two halves of the hub, instead of pulling the entire hub out. Once I was in that situation, I got some two long M12 bolts to try use the slide hammer on the back portion of the hub to pull it out of the knuckle. No luck.
After my experience, I would say the best approach is to use the four mounting bolts as jack screws, like I mentioned above. That only works if you can free things up enough to rotate either the hub or the backing plate so the holes no longer line up, however.
Best of luck to anyone else doing this job.
Great video! I now understand why it cost so much.... And worth the cost to pay someone to do the job!
Great video, as everyone else has said. Lets hear it for the camera guy too!!
+Philip Squire Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Thanks for the video A1! Will be doing business with you in the future. Len, I hope you had a couple of cold ones after that. 😄 Nice job man
+Jason Goodwin Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Damn, these part looks the same as for my Forester 2011. I have to do this procedure but on the ground and both side. I just hope it goes a bit easier without fire. Thanks for this video, it gets me a sleepless night.
I found it much easier to extract old bearing assembly from the knuckle by driving a small chisel between the brake backing plate and the knuckle n two opposite places.
Bearing housing came right out with only moderate hammer blows on the chisel.
That was one heck of a stuck bearing, I'll try to do it myself untill a torch is needed (hopefully not too bad to remove). Great step by step video with poom poom booh uh ooh uh sound effects 😂😂😂
+Chencho Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
On my 2014 Impreza I used a 1/4 NPT tap on holes after removing the bolt. Be sure to thread the tap almost all the way in for strong threads The hole is the right size for tapping.
Then install four 1/4 NPT plugs. Finally I used bolts from the front to jack the hub out. I had some 3/8x3/4 pins to put in the holes so I could use the mounting bolts. Take your time and turn each bolt a little at a time. And I used a slide hammer to remove the flanges first. But with the right length bolts you can leave the flanges in. Before you get the bearing housing completely out use a 3/8 punch to loosen the backing plates some.
Have not tried one yet, but there are some hub shocker removal tools on the market that might come in handy for this job.
Just discovered this page after watching nothing but Scotty!!! I love the step by step stuff and some of the "top 5 problems" videos.... Also, is this why mechanics don't have windows to their shop space? they're just playing T-ball with your car parts? haha... great video
Great video !!!....Was just quoted a price from Subaru on my 2013 Outback for this job. $1400.00 bucks. Ouch !!LOL... Oh..I am in L.I. New York BTW
Tip for the guys without a lift and the plate stuck on the hub... the backing plate sits perfectly on a 5gallon bucket to knock the hub assembly out. Soak it with some PB before
Excellent, thank you!
Excellent video, greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Wheel hub bolts: 48 ft lbs
Axle nut: 177 ft lbs
Caliper bracket bolts: 48.7 ft lbs (or 49 ft lbs)
Caliper bolts: 20 ft lbs
Posting this for my own notation but hope y'all find it helpful
Well done. Just curious, how about a slide hammer to pull the bearing out?
Yes, I was convinced this is not a job I want to do in my cold garage, with no air tools.😮
Appreciate the video, however the most important step that was missed was cleaning the rust from within the bore where hub backend sits in. The new bearing should literally go in and should be able to rotate the base freely in the bore, until then you've not cleaned the rust. After that you clean the bore and the hub rear with brake cleaner and rag and apply anti-seize on the mating surfaces.
How do I know this? I have replaced the bearings on my Outback 3 times in its lifetime. The first was difficult and then the following 2 hub pulls were as easy as if I had installed them a week before removal. This step is missed by many experienced techs 🙂
Thanks, very helpfull.
I simply rested the wheel bearing on a jack stand with all of the weight of the vehicle on it. I did keep another jack stand under the frame of course for safety. Lots of penetrait and big hammer was all it took.
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
he should have his own show
Great video...very helpful for my own repair!
+NicholasCenname Thank you for your feedback! We are happy we could help.
Why didn’t you use a hub puller? Wouldn’t it be less damaging and easier
Its a 2 piece
I was wondering that, too. The axle had a dimple made specifically for a hub puller to be used.
would not have worked, doing the puller would have just pulled in hub portion out and not the whole assembly.
if you have an old brake disc, put it on inside out with a few washers for spacers . Fasten the wheel nuts , this will give you at least 4 inches clearance from the backplate and you will have room to hit it with a hammer without doing any damage. It worked well for me, hit it first on the back then on the front.
Thank you!
Boy this one is really on there 😂
I’m doing my rears on my 14 Sti at work & I swear no Subaru bearing has came out nice without a new backing plate 😂
I’ve soaked mine now for a few weeks but I’m gonna smash the ears of the bearings with a 40z hammer & 18oz
I really don’t wanna heat anything but the shoes are gonna come off right away haha ps Canadian car
one trick for this job is after the brake rotor is off, re-install the wheel and kick the heck out of it, the hub will loosen up (and yes the backing plate always will come off!) and then you can easily whack the bearing out from the rear. Just dont tighten the wheel nuts too much so that the wheel bonds to the loose hub!
Makes me super-glad that I don't live in the rust belt. I might have felt emboldened to reattach the wheel to that stubborn hub, hoping the added weight/leverage might help me rock it free.
If my wheel hub is stuck I put a jack stand under the hub and lower the car down onto it without completely letting the car down incase the hub let’s loose. It usually is enough pressure to jack it back up and wack it a few times and the hub pops right out
Thread the hub bolts in half way and use an air hammer to push the hub out of the knuckle.
« Turn down for what » 😂😂
hahaha I'm so used to watching these videos and they're straight forward, but of course it was a subaru wheel bearing that turned this into a 49 minute video
Yep. Gonna pay someone to do this one.
Your video helped me a lot, I spent three days trying to get my wheel bearing removed. After watching your video I had both off in 20 minutes, really had to bang the wheel bearing. I was wondering @23:20 what is the name of the part you threw out, and is it required for the new wheel bearing or can I just install the new bearing without it?
That extra ring you threw into recycle bin appeared to be the abs ring which is why the light remained on after repair.
Would a slide hammer have made the hub separate from the knuckle any easier than your methods? Or do you think it would have just separated the bearing/hub assembly?
Hey, I just noticed that ring behind the bearing. I have one on mine and need to know if it goes back? I didn't see yours go back on. Am I missing something?
It goes back on. It's a seal. Keeps moisture and dirt out. You're not supposed to throw it away. OEM part.
Wow, now my confidence on getting this done is shattered 🤣🤣
Really good video, excellent presentation and trust me I know as I watch a lot of videos. Anyway why not try a slide hammer? I would think you would get some good impact with one of those or am I not thinking about it right in comparison to the air impact tool you used.
+Kartboarder22G Thanks for the feedback!
Ty so much. Just gotta get mad at it!