How to Train and IMPROVE your Technique: 6 SIMPLE ways
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2019
- I share a bouldering climbing session where I strictly focus on technique. 6 Things I focus on when climbing to improve technique and skill.
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music by:
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Michael Flury - Easy Tales
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Hello friends! Hope you're having a beautiful day today. Question, Which technique move are you currently working on? How's it going?
Dynos for me! Your videos are really helpful, keep at it!
Thank you, Dynos are fun to work on!
Headed to the gym right now to work on more crimps after taking a break from them after one of my pulleys was hurting :(
My wife and I really appreciate your insight and videos! Just realized I hadn't subbed yet. You got me now though!
Be careful out there and have fun! But remember to go easy on your body.
Thanks for subscribing. Much love!
I have a few technique focus', I spend 20 mins per session on one of the following;
Controlled cut loose and recover, 10 reps with 3 mins rest.
Slope holds, hang from them and then smear up the wall until I lose traction to work out what it takes for my grip to fail on different holds
Footwork, traversing whole walls, up to 40 mtrs focusing on putting my weight through my feet, using toes, toe hooks and pivoting all the way. Aiming for small to medium footholds.
All of which are also a great core or shoulder workout.
"focus on climbs 2 or 3 grades below my max level" - okay but where can I find negative grades?
Just climb backwards ✌️
Haha right in the feels
V negative: Climb in zero gravity
Was wondering the same 😆
😂😂same . Hang in there. No pun intended. We will get there 💪🏽🧗♂️
Quick note on something I've discovered training: don't just do a problem twice, do it until it until you dial in the beta so tight that the climb is easy. That might be one additional send and it might be five, but moving from hard to flow/easy makes for huge increases in the techniques that went into that climb
Yes! Love this. Thanks for sharing.
Exactly this, once a project is finished, get some repetitions out of it and ingrain it!
Remember, an amateur will practice something until they get it right. A pro will practice something until they can't get it wrong.
@@Allegedlies-YTP Brilliant! I'm keeping that one.
I agree, refining technique and your form will make any power you have go that much further! Plus it never hurts to toughen the hands and toes some more from repetition
One thing that I've just recently started doing is not worrying about sending and just focusing 100% of my attention on the move that I'm on. Becoming completely submersed in a single move is a big change in perspective and makes my sessions much more enjoyable. I noticed that worrying about if I was going to complete the route was starting to take the fun out of climbing. Now, every successful move is like a mini send. And because I'm focusing so much attention to even the simplest of moves, I'm picking up so much more detail than I used to and I feel like my mind and body retain the movements better.
1- 0:52 Visualization
2- 1:34 Down Climb
3- 2:06 Silent Feet
4- 2:48 Avoid Re-Adjusting
5- 3:20 Flow
6- 5:02 Technical Move
My game changer: repeat routes multiple times. Reflect about good, smooth, dynamic and as effortless as possible movement. In difficult routes look for different solutions of other climbers, but first try to find the beta on your own.
Ah yes! Love this. Thanks for sharing my friend. Appreciate you!
Downclimb #1 tip
tbh all of this tips are excellent and should be mind blowers for beginners.
Ever since I focused on technique my climbing ability has risen. Technique is everything. Great video! Thanks for all the tips!
Awesome, Glad you liked it!
Can you help me out with my techniek? ua-cam.com/video/vu6tm880Ojg/v-deo.html
That silent feet is crucial! It Improved my climbing so much bro! I remembered you mentioned that a while back and I always focus on it. Thanks man!
In my experience i've found that the ability to repeat boulder problems exactly the same or even better than before is crucial particularly for better lead climbing. That's why i don't have that much strenght but i can usually climb better in lead than many stronger boulderers. If you can memorize the tiny details of your body position and such you can usually replicate exactly what you did and complete your projects faster. Anyway great content as always, yours is slowly becoming one of the better climbing channels on youtube.
For real, the downclimbing is an excellent tip. It's also really handy if you're trying to baby your ankle after a bad landing
I will try all of this tomorrow in my session! Some things I'm already doing. Great video
Your videos have been really helping me work on technique in the gym. Always quality content.
Just finished a really frustrating session today and needed this advice and encouragement. Thank you!
Your videos are so helpful! Especially for new climbers! Thanks so much for these videos!
So much love for this video. You've earned yourself a new liker and subscriber. I'm also sharing this video to all my boulder friends. Keep up the good work!
I always do hard routes at least three times, because first time it was luck, second time it was done, third time it was mastered ^^ Like you said, doing it multiple times improves your flow and understanding of the route so much!
All of your tips are really well explained, keep going!
Great advise. New climbers in my gym get so excited about progressing through the grades that they don't climb the easier stuff to focus on technique. I'll be throwing your name out there on this one :)
Ah man... This means a lot to me. Appreciate the support my friend. Thank you ;)
Quality teaching. I’m newer to climbing but have in-depth experience in teaching physical crafts. You do an eloquent job at explaining the concept and intention behind your tips. Thank you
Down climbing is an absolute game changer. I didn't put as much emphasis on it until recently but it has massively sped up my progress. Definitely something worth putting the time into
Thanks for teaching. You inspire me to become a much better climber. I climb in Hamburg since this may an began to change my climbin style from absolute beginner to slightly advanced. I've so much fun with your videos. Thank you very much. Greetings! Andreas
Watched this in Jan/Feb and was really encouraged to work on footwork & down-climbing.
Gym closed March-Sept due to lockdown, so invested in a pad and have started doing some outdoor work (struggling up some local V0- boulders!)
Super-encouraged by watching this again and the advice to try indoor routes/moves that you can do again and again with goal of flow/understanding and the application of an outdoor project.
It's turning bouldering from something that's a fun challenge for me into something I can generate progression on. :-)
Duuude you’ll get it for sure your soo good. Love your videos, sooooo helpful
Silent feet is so underrated also for not destroying your 100$ shoes in 2 months
And it helps your technique a ton!
Wow, this video was one of the best I've watched so far on technique! Its really helpfull, especially seeing you doing the things youre talking about over and over again! Gonna check out your other videos! :)
Thank you! Hope you enjoy watching the rest of the content ;)
Another great video! Thank you so much for your detailed instruction videos. 💛👍🏽
Great tips brother! Down-climbing is a very important aspect of climbing, especially if you ever plan to boulder outside! Sometime them down-climbs are scarier than the up-climb! Great video, keep it up! :)
Thanks brotha! remember this... Flying Circus will be ours.
Useful is quite the understatement. Great video !
I’m really new to this and have not watched any educational content. This was a great video, thank you so much for the great tips. Will try them tonight!
all these can be incorporated into 1 exercise that can be done once a week: CIRCUITS. its a similar concept, pick 4 problems 2-3 grades below your max grade. run them 4x with good rest in between each climb. every time you reach for a hold, hover your hand over that hold for 5 seconds. this forces you to work on everything covered in video and some other things. it forces you to find the most efficient way to climb the route. if your footwork or body position is bad, your arms will get way too tired to hold yourself up especially on bigger movements. optimizing footwork and body position will help maintain body tensions and reduce the amount of energy used to hold each movement. it gives you time on the wall improving endurance and strength. it forces you to maintain technique even when exhausted (this is really crucial when trying projects and in comps). when your doing this, technique should always be your focus so things like silent feet and avoiding readjusting should be incorporated. it also forces you to do problems more than once which improves muscle memory. i've been doing these for a month and already noticing significant improvements.
When I go climbing after watching your videos I always have a great session. Your videos have really helped for foot work and body positioning. Thank-you!
This makes me happy. Great feeling to know that I’m helping others with this lovely sport. Thank you.
Me too. ☺
Anthony Khoury-Hanold Me too!
I dont climb much, but your videos are inspiring relaxing minimal and really helpful. Keep it up!
I love the shot at 4:01! Thanks as always for the amazing content-you’ve helped me improve my climbing a lot. I’ve been climbing for a year, and I can now do v4s and 5s 🧗♀️
Congrats on your progress! keep at it and thanks for the support!
i have enjoyed every single one of your video. so much tips and info were shared. thanks.
5: Flow was my biggest take away on this. Dope. Thank you
What a great wrap up! I just come back from the climbing gym, those staffs you talking about is just exactly what I have been doing these days! They are fun and effective! Great video bro!
Awesome!
Just started to learning how to climb, all your tips were so useful. Great video man! Liked and subbed 🙏
My climbing as improved tremendously since I started watching your videos. I've been devoting most of my time at the gym on technique only. The results speak for themselves on days I just work on sending difficult routes. Thanks for all the tips and encouragement!
Awesome! Keep at it my friend. Thank you.
Great video! Really useful! Taking these tips to the gym!
Thanks for producing these videos. This is a seriously good channel, especially the climbing tips you do. These are great tips for improving technique. The only other thing I'd add is doing moves on traverse walls really helped for me, because they help with things like flagging and doing hard moves but not high on the wall so there is no fear of falling. That and books like self coached climber and rock climbing technique by Kettle have useful drills that you can do to improve technique and turn it into habit. These drills take patience and are less fun than climbing hard, but it pays off in the long run.
Great suggestions! thanks for sharing and for the support. Much love!
Been focusing on that downclimb tip for a few weeks since seeing it in one of your older videos and managed to send my first 6c! Great videos 👌
Congrats on your send! Keep that progress going. Thank you!
Great content, really relaxing fibe almost like as in the kliming hall. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
i watched ur whole climbing tips playlist over the last 4 days and today i went to the gym and of course my technique is not perfect now, but i really noticed that im climbing differently. i tried to visualize first, watched my feet more and tried flagging. in the end i tried a new color level and i really sent some. so thx man keep it up :)
Love it! Thanks for sharing and glad the playlist has been very helpful.
Thank you so much for all your tips! I'm a beginner and I've already learned so much from your channel. Thank you!
Happy to help!
Great video, dude. All these tips are great. I've been working down climbs, no readjustments, and flow on all of my warm up climbs for a while and they've all helped a ton.
I've been working on my lock off strength recently. I'm already pretty good at lock offs, but I've hit a couple tough climbs where having it even stronger would be a godsend.
Lock off strength is going to help you so MUCH in your progress. I include negative lock offs to my training just do a couple of reps slowly coming down from a lock off, you should give it a try ;) It'll make you stronger for sure.
Thanks rockentry👍
Hi from the UK. Another great video, cheers man 🤛🏻
Cheers my friend! Thank you!
Cool! I'll give it a try. Thank you for sharing :)
Great video, I'll definitely be using some of these for my own training routine!
Awesome!
That was amazing tips you don't usually hear. Thanks
Thanks for this video! It was really helpful
Love your vids, bro. Thank you!
Very nice video man! Love the style of these videos. Also like the tips of course :)
Glad you enjoyed!
So knowledgeable and helpful, thanks for making this video and I appreciate all that you do :)
I appreciate your support my friend. Thank you!
Awesome man! Thank you for sharing!!!
Thanks for the tips! One thing that has helped me a lot is actually recording myself climb! I don't do it often because I like being focussed with the climbing, but if I'm not with friends and when the gym isn't too busy, I like to pull the phone out. I think it's one thing to try out a problem, but when I go back and watch myself climb, it's always super interesting to see my thought process, look at what beta works/doesn't work, and overall positioning.
For example, there was a problem where I had to flag a lot. I knew I was doing it but after rewatching myself do the problem a couple times, I realized my back was sagging, a lot. It made me realize I wasn't actually engaging my core as much as I could, so on the subsequent tries, I really tried to engage my core and what felt like "exaggerating" some of the movements, actually made everything way, way more stable. I could also reach way further and it honestly really surprised me.
Any ways, this also kinda goes into what I'm working on -- core! I couldn't hold a toe hook the other day and I realized my issue was more so a lack of core engagement. It's not technique per se, but I'm trying to be more conscious of how to use it (and to breathe!!), and I think will help me a lot with other things (like flagging and toe hooks). And with that said, I totally agree with isolating specific moves and figuring out what works. When you're not so worried about sending you can just think "CORE CORE ENGAGE CORE NO SAG NO SAG!!" haha.
As always, thanks for the vids! Cheers.
Just love the fact that you do what ever you can to progress. You're a smart climber and the fact that you are identifying your mistakes/weaknesses and working them will take you far! I find reading this really motivating I really appreciate you sharing your journey with us all. Keep at it and you will continue to be a strong overall climber. Thank you for the love and support!
Hi, I really appreciate your suggestions. Thanks a lot to share with us ;-)
very very informative and knowledgeable video...thanks a lot....
Even 2 years on this video holds up so well. You may not be the fastest climber, but your technique is second to none.
i am so relaxed with you, thanks
Love your videos, they are helping me immensely!
Thank you for taking time out of your day to watch my videos. Much love!
Same here. I watched a bunch of his vids and applied the tips to my climbing and progressed so fast. His vid on smearing was one of my favs.
I am so happy to see your body mouvement it's really helpfull
You video are so helpful for me . I'm appreciate you☺
and I appreciate you for watching.
thank you so much for this video!
Awesome. Love it!
exactly what i needed, thx :)
No clue why anyone would give this thumbs down. Great video and good suggestions. Will try.
A true technician. 👏🏼
Wish I could give multiple thumbs up per video. Lots of good advice, thanks again man
Much love man, Appreciate your support!
Great video man, hope there's more
Lots more and I've just uploaded a new video!
Super helpful thanks 😊
I hadn't climbed in a good while, i was at the climbing gym nothing major but I was moving up at the time so I was pretty decent, well I went after like two years in a way it was like riding a bike, and then I got down and realized i forgot to breathe properly, I was light headed lol practice makes perfect that's why these guys are on another level respect 💪
Really informative, thank you :)
This is everything I need, thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Just wanted to tell u I love you before you become too famous
hahaha Thank you. I will forever remember this moment ;)
Oops he stole my line b4 I am going to say that HAHAHAHA
Love your content
Can always take something away from your videos. thanks. keep it up!
Thank you!
Love your videos dude!
Thank you!
Thank you love your ambition and finesse
Thank you for watching!
thank you!
Thanks!!
Love the vid mate! Also, where about did you get your climbing jeans?
Hey, whats the song in the first portion of the video? I really like it and would love to find it. Also great video as usual keep it up.
Very nice!!
dude, you're killing those sends
Thank you!
thank you
this guy has good advice
One thing I’m working on is finding a climb that I feel very comfortable with and then trying moves I don’t feel super comfortable with,like back flags,smearing and heel hooks :)
Great Tipps and nice Technique :) Greetings Tom
Great vid, super helpful as always!! (:
Also where is the gym that you go to?? Looks amazing
I go to Cliffs of ID or LA Boulders located in Los Angeles. Great gyms!
Smashed it again
flawless technique ;)
My boy Brian!!
It's interesting to me that you can somehow learn to do something better by just repetition while not even really understanding what you're doing. Once you get a certain move right after trial and error, you can probably do that move better (or even automatically) the next time, without knowing exactly how you moved each arm and leg.
Great things as always and fundamental skills. An element of “time compression” (on your own-like a self made competition) is doing the whole cycle in under 4 minutes? Also, repeat climbs (which you had a vid) is so important; this is why I always repeat 2-3 times in the session to confirm I have the skill. I did two roof climbs (V5) 5 times consecutive in a row and 10 times. So fun. 😝🤘 You’ll get that Stoney dead point prob soon-looked right on for the dead point. 👍
Ah interesting! Time compression is one I’d have to try. Thanks for sharing!
thanks for the tips.🐱👤👍
Could you please do a video on how to train for climbing without a gym or outdoor wall? I have weights and a portable hangboard though..
Hey man great video! I will absolutely try this on my next session. How about improving specific technique like when's appropriate to flag, stepback, dropknee... Any tips?
Best way to improve a technique is to practice it on the wall my friend. Best thing ever!
Hi , great video thanks. Any chance you can do a video on how to fall. Im very new to the climbing thing and how to fall advice would really help. Thanks
I’ll see what I can do. Thank you!
Awesome video! I can visualize my hand moves, but I find it really hard to work out where my feet should go until I am actually on the wall. Do you have any advice? Thanks,
I found him after Michelle Khare’s video. He’s such a good instructor! He is gifted in communication and making people not feel dumb. He’s not overly wordy, but he doesn’t lack either. Such a solid instructor and seems like a great guy overall! Thanks for all your excellent videos and the quality!
Great vid, man. U continue to inspire:) Quick question: I've been bouldering just under a year now & have feel like I've progressed a fair bit but lately I keep banging my shins (quite badly) when on walls sloping away (ie opposite of an overhang). As a result of this I'm now a tad paranoid about these walls (that I used to think were easier) in preference for overhangs. Any advice / tips?!
@Tim Long hey, I just started climbing a few months ago and just curious about how much improvement you've seen over the first year. I feel as though the first 2 months I was really getting better, but then it's slowed down a bit now (still love it though!!). Any tips for the next stage?
Hhhmmm... It's really difficult to give advice without watching you climb. One advice I could give is to always be aware of your surrounding when climbing, look how your body is going to swing when you're planing to do a dynamic move and such.
Also, If there is a climb where you notice a patter of you getting hit in the same spot I would either change beta or move on to another climb. Hope this helps and climb safe out there!
@Morgan yeah, everyone improves heaps early on then hits the dreaded plateau. I feel like I improved steadily for 6 months upto about v4 as my finger & upper body strength / flexibility improved & can now do overhangs etc I couldn't have dreamed of doing early on. However, to get to the next level I really need to focus on technique. I'm fairly done after 60-80 mins & seeing someone breeze up a route I've just sweated my guts out can do u in! The only answer I guess is to get back on & practise, practise, practise!
@Morgan in terms of tips though keeping the right level of challenge / motivation is important. I'm a determined (stubborn) S.O.B. & always try to send at least one new, challenging route each time I go to my local boulder wall & at least make some progress on a few others. I'll focus on the unfinished projects first the next time I go & make damn sure I've done them before the routes change! 👍