Intermediate Climbing Footwork Technique: Inside & Outside Edging, Toes and Heels

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  • Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
  • In this video, we have Tom moving into the zone of "intermediate" footwork techniques. These are methods and skills for using your feet that will really help you progress faster through those middle grades - especially once you've mastered the basics of climbing footwork!
    As promised in last week's video, we've got the details of inside and outside edging (moving away from that "powerpoint") combined with knowledge around the all-important toe hook. Whilst the toe hook is a technique that's been around for decades, we've really seen a big change in the standards of application in this - also the route setting styles - in the last 5 years. They're cropping up all over the place!
    Finally, the heel-toe cam and heel-plant get the rundown from Tom, including a few demos on the wall. Don't forget that with all of these techniques, it's not just the way in which you apply your foot to the wall, it's also about how you position your body around it and the way in which you apply force. Getting all of these areas to perfection takes years and years.... and even then you'll probably find yourself realising there's more to learn! Take those baby steps, one at a time. Immerse yourself in the process of improving and you'll not regret the massive impact you're going to have on climbing performance.
    Intro: (0:00)
    Inside and outside edging: (0:40)
    Toe hooks: (4:32)
    Heel-toe cam: (8:25)
    Heel-plant: (11:19)
    Outro: (14:01)
    If you'd like to get more feedback on these topics in a 1:1 manner with our coaches, then have a look at our Lattice 365 membership - join the 100s of other people learning and improving their climbing!
    Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetraining.com/plans/
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 91

  • @bernhardlangers778
    @bernhardlangers778 3 роки тому +163

    Just a note, but one of the best ways I improved my climbing was a guy telling me to slow down. I used to rush up the wall since stamina is one of my rather big downsides. This advice got me way further than I had been and did a lot for my climbing.

    • @hansmuller7507
      @hansmuller7507 3 роки тому +24

      Thats funny, one of the best tips I got for sport climbing was to climb faster😂😂😂

    • @shakeysugar4382
      @shakeysugar4382 3 роки тому +16

      Slow down to learn the correct technique, then speed up while maintaining good technique, and you'll be good to go ✌️ definitely worth experimenting with different speeds and styles, fast flowy dynamic Vs slow and steady static climbing

  • @yandrabouteflika39
    @yandrabouteflika39 3 роки тому +222

    Lattice training has the best, most concise explanations of climbing techniques on youtube, hands down.
    Keep up the great content!

    • @LatticeTraining
      @LatticeTraining  3 роки тому +13

      yandra bouteflika thanks so much!!! We’ll keep trying to do our best!!

  • @mw5360
    @mw5360 3 роки тому +97

    This isn't the kind on 'edging' i normally watch on the internet.....
    That being said, this is also such great content. Nice one lads.

    • @LatticeTraining
      @LatticeTraining  3 роки тому +34

      m w hate to think what that’s all about but there’s no way we’re googling what that means 😅

  • @jordansobolew1661
    @jordansobolew1661 2 роки тому +34

    Love the explanations and demonstrations in this video. Please consider making a public playlist of just the technique videos. They are a bit difficult to find among all the training vids.

  • @fuzz6263
    @fuzz6263 3 роки тому +37

    I love how you focus on having your hips close to the wall. Once I started focusing on that, most other techniques (that I had never heard about) just came to me naturally. I did hit my hip bone on the wall pretty badly once though.

    • @chaosengine4597
      @chaosengine4597 3 роки тому +3

      some pain is part of a proper session usually :D

  • @MiguelOliveira87
    @MiguelOliveira87 3 роки тому

    Brilliant video. Thank you. Hope your channel continues to grow as it deserves!

  • @zraybroske2416
    @zraybroske2416 3 роки тому

    Such an excellent teacher.

  • @BzAdt
    @BzAdt 3 роки тому +1

    Brilliant! Great teaching--as usual!

  • @danielfry8097
    @danielfry8097 3 роки тому

    Love these intermediate/more advanced technique videos

  • @Paydrohhh
    @Paydrohhh 3 роки тому

    Incredibly helpful and informative. Thanks for uploading!

  • @QuincelSC
    @QuincelSC 2 місяці тому

    The precision in this description is so helpful. Outside edge sounds like the pinky toe (opposite of the big toe), but it's not! It's all the other toes so you still have strength in the foot. Massively underexplained point which I didn't get for ages!

  • @NotPMHarper
    @NotPMHarper 2 роки тому +4

    I hadn't heard of a heel plant before but I definitely started doing that intuitively + seeing other people doing it early into climbing. Great explanation of all of these techniques!

  • @onemooreday
    @onemooreday 3 роки тому +7

    One of the most technical videos and well explained. Looking forward to the advanced one. The work in the background looks well on its way in the lockup.....

  • @LarsStuggitown
    @LarsStuggitown 2 роки тому +2

    You are explaining extremely well, this is very helpful, thank you so much!!!

  • @davidsimpson3885
    @davidsimpson3885 3 роки тому +5

    The heel plant is amazing if you can get it in, allows so much weight to get taken of the fingers and always great to get an interim rest in somewhere where you would otherwise be having to be pull very hard. Best tip of the Video. Cannot wait for the advanced Video.

  • @Wisdy
    @Wisdy 3 роки тому +10

    I've been looking for ways to train my technique and this is very helpful, thanks!

  • @skinnypolish6701
    @skinnypolish6701 3 роки тому

    This guy is legendary!

  • @sishacar
    @sishacar 3 роки тому +33

    Great video! But now I need the advanced version!

    • @BrunoAxhausen
      @BrunoAxhausen 3 роки тому +3

      Tom Randall Cool! One general thing I‘ve been thinking about: how about an episode sometime where you really try to go above most people‘s head in terms of high end tips / ideas? I‘ve often found to profit a lot from suggestions that I didn‘t understand at first, but which stuck in my head until I learned to appreciate them in time... (if that makes any sense...)
      thanks for all the great content, it‘s much appreciated!!

    • @chaosengine4597
      @chaosengine4597 3 роки тому +2

      @@BrunoAxhausen like for me it was "apply body tension!" and me thinking "what do they talk about?" ;)

  • @snefansson
    @snefansson 3 роки тому +2

    By far the best instructions I've seen for foot work! I'm garbage at toe hooks and I thought I had nailed the foot plant(apparently not) so I have loads of fun stuff to improve now! Thanks, great vid!

  • @christopherkwasny5333
    @christopherkwasny5333 2 роки тому

    Absolutely awesome

  • @chrisrhodes7178
    @chrisrhodes7178 3 роки тому

    Really like how well your explanations are very good video to help build technique this is very helpful to someone like me who doesn’t have a climbing facility nearby

  • @nathan88274
    @nathan88274 3 роки тому

    Thanks so much! I can't believe this is free

  • @publicalways
    @publicalways 7 місяців тому

    love how you were using the shoes to explain and illustrate the technique before demonstrating the moves on the wall. helps a great deal 👍👍👍

  • @XAVAIC
    @XAVAIC 3 роки тому

    Great explanation, thanks!

  • @ASNIV_
    @ASNIV_ 3 роки тому +18

    You’re an awesome instructor, Tom!

  • @Nele511
    @Nele511 Рік тому

    Thanks for these great explanations 😍

  • @marianagrebler3737
    @marianagrebler3737 3 роки тому

    Best video so far

  • @aaroncowan8475
    @aaroncowan8475 Рік тому

    This guy is a great coach!

  • @79GDawg
    @79GDawg 2 роки тому

    Awesome video Mate. Thank you 😀👍

  • @nomdesign9543
    @nomdesign9543 3 роки тому

    Another great video!

  • @abliviax
    @abliviax 3 роки тому +1

    Really like these technique vids

  • @phill1304
    @phill1304 2 роки тому

    Amazing video thank you!

  • @assaqwwq
    @assaqwwq 3 роки тому

    Woohoo! Thank you guys!

  • @nazaninmanhoobi5978
    @nazaninmanhoobi5978 2 роки тому

    You are the best coach

  • @ernesthow3795
    @ernesthow3795 3 роки тому +5

    Always love the intro. Thanks for this session! I can already see many past climbs that would have benefitted from this :)

  • @riccokane
    @riccokane 3 роки тому +4

    Another. Great. Video!

  • @BeGravity4
    @BeGravity4 3 роки тому

    Well done video

  • @JordanSullivanadventures
    @JordanSullivanadventures Рік тому

    This is so freaking helpful

  • @tylerb7795
    @tylerb7795 Рік тому

    Thank you

  • @xalingding
    @xalingding 3 роки тому

    Great video as always, can you also cover ways to weight much smaller holds and climb hard slabs?

  • @jerryshine3106
    @jerryshine3106 3 роки тому

    Great!

  • @NJoint
    @NJoint Рік тому

    Edging can be very frustrating, but after t doing it for a while, the end result is so satisfying ;)

  • @user-ji1ue5pw2i
    @user-ji1ue5pw2i 3 роки тому +3

    Good video!I can climb V4+ ,my goal is V5 next year.

  • @Veingod999
    @Veingod999 Місяць тому +1

    So edging is goated

  • @ras906
    @ras906 3 роки тому +1

    Have yall already done a video on exercises to strengthen heeling hook pulling?

  • @cillijed4291
    @cillijed4291 3 роки тому

    bro bent leg toe hooks are great use them all the time

  • @Will-kt5jk
    @Will-kt5jk Рік тому

    11:12 - could do with a bit of advice on ensuring you can release a heel-toe jam (particularly when the sole is towards the wall) - I always find it a bit sketchy when I have that much torque through my knee, spend up avoiding it if I’m not sure I can release on the next move.

  • @domkolarova
    @domkolarova 3 роки тому

    Great video thanks for sharing! Could you do a grit specific footwork video? Thank you

    • @grahamemacmullen7731
      @grahamemacmullen7731 3 роки тому

      Excellent video - thank you. Clear and concise with great demonstrations!

  • @carsythe
    @carsythe Рік тому

    Any advise for how to engage really slabby, flat footholds? Like when its basically a flat pancake that you can't edge on (at least I can't) ? Id love to see a video about how to properly utilize them.

  • @SnowmansApartment
    @SnowmansApartment 3 роки тому

    watching this because i miss climbing so much...

  • @chaosengine4597
    @chaosengine4597 3 роки тому +3

    ok, I see. Masterclass will be THE KNEEBAR :)
    +1 for the safety advise :*

  • @BecauseVikingsCan
    @BecauseVikingsCan 3 роки тому +2

    Madlad here, but you can train your toehooks on a bike, by pulling with your toes instead of pressing with your feet. It's a bit awkward, but it kind-of works

  • @Martin-ll9sy
    @Martin-ll9sy 3 роки тому +1

    Very good video! I realized I have been using heel toe jams and side heel rollup without knowing the technique. But be careful with both as I have a history of cross ligament rupture you shouldn't fall or slip on these moves ;)

  • @Franzstick
    @Franzstick 3 роки тому +1

    Thanks for the video!! The details are amazing as always!
    What about the context in which to use a heelhook rather than a toehook and viceversa? (Speaking as a default-heelhooking kind of guy)

    • @LatticeTraining
      @LatticeTraining  3 роки тому +1

      We'll see if we can cover this in future episodes!

  • @fredrikaxelson8079
    @fredrikaxelson8079 3 роки тому +1

    How do you remove the foot at the toe-heel lock if you fall? Got the shivers at 11.16. how can you apply it without risking your knee?

  • @ericwilliam868
    @ericwilliam868 3 роки тому +2

    Hey guys, I love the content.
    Just have one semi related question regarding your 7/3 x6 x10 protocol for building up aerobic base. Do you suggest getting to the point where you can add weight, or do the program twice in a row? I've had amazing progress in my endurance for it so far. Currently I do it twice in a row, once on ice tools with added weight, and then again on the 20mm edge with a bit of weight taken off.
    Appreciate it!

    • @LatticeTraining
      @LatticeTraining  3 роки тому +1

      Eric William normally you would look to increase volume on this one, unless you were in peak phase.

    • @ericwilliam868
      @ericwilliam868 3 роки тому

      @@LatticeTraining appreciate it! That program has been incredible for me. Thanks for you all you guys do for the climbing community.

  • @ilyanikitin6248
    @ilyanikitin6248 2 роки тому

    my current project has a heel plant but its not on a vertical wall its on a overhang, right on a lip of it. So when my right foot is planted my left leg is just hanging in the air which sucks.

  • @alexanderteng5584
    @alexanderteng5584 3 роки тому +3

    Unintentionally been using some of these techniques because I'm short and the only way I can reach holds is to push my hips closer to the wall

  • @jacoboblanco1555
    @jacoboblanco1555 10 місяців тому

    I’m watching this much later because I’m struggling with a toe hook start move and it occurs to me that I would find this video more helpful if they had an intermediate climber present to teach the technique. Tom is a crack climber and probably has good shin strength, so having a climber I can relate to would help me get more out of the video.

  • @boulderfighters2590
    @boulderfighters2590 3 роки тому

    Hey Tom, really nice video. I have a question though. Don't you need to be a bit careful when positioning your heel the way you showed it at the end? I once worked on a heel hook problem where I had my heel/foot in such a position but not just for a brief moment but a bit longer. And it felt like I had quite some body weight on it. In the end my heel started hurting quite a lot after I tried the problem several times so that I could not heel hook properly for a few days. Maybe I just executed it poorly but I was wondering whether maybe in general you need to be a bit careful about how long you are in this position and how much weight you apply on your heel in this position. Thanks in advance.

    • @LatticeTraining
      @LatticeTraining  3 роки тому +1

      Yup it's definitely a technique that requires some care and understanding of climbing as a whole. It's a technique we'd recommend using more once you progress from beginner stage of climbing. Like many things in climbing, it comes with a level of risk! Take it easy, only go as far as you are confident and have an exit plan!!

  • @riesenpurzel
    @riesenpurzel 9 місяців тому

    I am 2m (6.7 ft) tall and live in asia. I always feel that i am super crunched when toe hooking, either because i need to flex knees or hips because the distance between holds is just too short for me where the short asians have extended joints. Is there a technical way to compensate for the height difference? Sometimes i can use a heel hook instead but the angles of the hold dont always allow for it.

  • @MarkWetzler32
    @MarkWetzler32 3 роки тому

    Lovely accent you have there. New Jersey?

  • @c1safely1
    @c1safely1 3 роки тому +3

    Tom, what is that sweet looking teal shoe you are toe hooking with?

  • @cartermichaelmcmillan3105
    @cartermichaelmcmillan3105 3 роки тому

    #climbing

  • @KyleLanmon
    @KyleLanmon 3 роки тому +5

    Be careful with the last technique. I tore my meniscus in a position like that...

    • @chaosengine4597
      @chaosengine4597 3 роки тому

      you should definetely already have some climbing experience and regular exercise before you move into the more "brutal" heel plants. But then - oh boy - they can be glorious.

  • @jonnes__4657
    @jonnes__4657 3 роки тому +1

    🐱‍👤The heel-toe-jam looks a bit scary for me.
    .

    • @Tam3n
      @Tam3n 3 роки тому +1

      Yep, if you fall and your foot is stuck...

    • @LatticeTraining
      @LatticeTraining  3 роки тому +2

      Jonnes __ yup, you’ve got to be really careful with this one. Get a nice strong spotter and don’t lock it in too hard when first starting!

  • @jhy8191
    @jhy8191 3 роки тому

    Are drop knees considered an advanced technique?

    • @LatticeTraining
      @LatticeTraining  3 роки тому

      Depends how deep! In a way, it’s a technique that goes across the entire spectrum. We’ve covered the drop knee / twisting in our 5.12/7a video but we’ll definitely aim to do more!

  • @picklerick7731
    @picklerick7731 3 роки тому +1

    Sub

  • @lipczan
    @lipczan Рік тому

    and almost no crack xD

  • @ctg
    @ctg 3 роки тому

    👨‍🏫🐒

  • @chadrogers69
    @chadrogers69 Рік тому

    @7:06 that's racist