Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) 2002 Dodge Dakota 3.9 Stalling
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- Опубліковано 19 тра 2012
- Stalling in low idle conditions, shifting from forward to reverse or from park to drive, etc. is typically caused by the IAC. Replacing it is fairly straight forward.
This is one of those conditions that the on board diagnostics (the engine light) or an OBD reader does no usually detect (because it typically only detects a complete failure condition and not intermittent problems)
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just did it myself and you saved me money lol . took it to this mechanic and dude was trying to charge me 170 i started laughing . ending up buying the tools and did it in half an hour .. thank you
I had the same issue, replaced both and now I am starting and ideling EVERY time!!!! Thank you for all the posts here!!
I bought a 2002 Dakota 3 years ago, a couple months after my purchase the truck was running like crap and stalling. I watched this video and purchased the IAC valve (aftermarket) it worked ok but never seemed to idle smoothly. About 3 weeks ago it started stalling again. Long story short. Watched your video again and took your advice to buy mopar. I replaced the IAC today and the truck is running beautifully. Thanks for making this video.
How much was the Mopar version of the part? And did you have to get it at a dealer or any local auto shop has them?
1998 Dodge Dakota V6 magnum same problem...Replaced IAC...fixed the problem...thanks for the video
Thank you! Folks like you make UA-cam great! I can always find a method for auto maintenance or repairs on here! Thanks again!
Every time you replace any sensor, don’t forget to disconnect the battery to reset the computer, otherwise new sensor not going to communicate with vehicle computer
I did not know this and did not do it. After replacing the TPS and IAC 1993 Dakota was still throwing the same codes. Did what you said and put about 50 miles on the engine. Codes cleared and problem has not returned.
@@centaurus777 what he said is incorrect, the computer isn’t that smart that it recognizes a new sensor it just checks for a sensor period. What happened when you disconnected the battery cable was you killed power to the computer and after a few minutes the capacitors inside discharge an the computer resets itself. All that does is a memory wipe to clear codes. The same thing happens on its own after a few drive cycles with the fixed part but it takes longer to self reset then disconnecting the battery an forcing it. Which is why you had the same codes with the new parts right after install.
I know your comments like a year old I just figured I would explain what actually happened so you’re not misinformed.
-professional mechanic of 5 years
Good point, thanks for contributing!
I should have read on 😁 thanks for clarifying
These were EXCELLENT instructions! I completed the task just a few minutes, the old one was super nasty. THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH!
Thanks for sharing...this really helps out a lot easier...God bless!
Thanks for posting this video , I have a 2000 Dodge dakota and having the symptom you have talked about in this video. Great picture video and thanks for saving me some Money!
I have 99 dodge dakota and its idles like crap and when im driving its cutting out almost like its not getting fuel are these the symptoms you had?
@@_Disturbance_ did you get your truck fixed yet?
Work for me. I just hit the sensor with the back of the screwdriver a few times when I couldn't get the bolts loose. It's running great now!
Nice closeup of removal thank you
nice... it make seems easy for my kid to install Thank you!
I may not have unhooked it here, but you DEFINITELY should. I have been lacks over the years but a recent comment to one of my other videos reminded me how dangerous it can be. So please be safe a disconnect the negative cable
Would have no clue how to w/o this, thanks.
Note: the IAC removed is stuck in the extended/closed position, just like mine. The new part normal unpowered position is retracted. No wonder not working right.
I would add: the aperture where this fits is big enough to get a finger into. I used a rag w/solvent to reach in and clean out a LOT of carbon and gunk. I recommend it, should help the new part last longer.
Had the same issue mine even start stalling in the middle of me driving . I sprayed the throttle body directly with some throttle body cleaner and it solved the problem.
Mine stalls while driving! Any pointers?
@@valleybuilt8979 get some throttle body cleaner and spray it
The entire throttle bottle? Inside obviously but you’re talking right at/around the throttle flap
@@valleybuilt8979 just spray the flap it don't take much
Just curious, Wondering why you didn't clean the IAC mounting hole before installing the new one. Your old IAC looked quite coated with crud. Thanks and thanks for sharing this info.
I may have missed that, so good tip, thanks for taking the time to post!
To everyone who has the typical stalling issue, let me help you out it's not the iac, tps, map, iat, crank sensor, pick up coil, or cat. It's your upstream heated oxygen sensor. That will fix it. Oh btw.. Aftermarket sensors work just fine. Also check you intake manifold. If there is oil in there disconnect the pcv valve and block port on intake. Use a breather cap for the pcv.
Funny you should mention that, this fix DID work for my stalling issue. However, the two systems definitely relate because several months after this fix I started getting a warning light for that oxygen sensor. You can see that video here: ua-cam.com/video/WT6mwP2_WqE/v-deo.html
Also, to clarify what I've said many times about OEM sensors. A friend of mine from many years ago worked for a well-known Chrysler supplier that produced many of their solid state parts and various sensors. I can't give you the whole story here, but the long and short of it is that aftermarket designers do not have the benefit of the design specs that Chrysler has. (or any other auto manufacturer for that matter) So what they do is program and test their devices based on known conditions that may change as manufacturing cycles progress. This is what causes aftermarket parts (parts not made by an integrated supplier) not to interface well with systems in the vehicle. In addition, aftermarket parts may not have the lifespan or be manufactured to the same Quality Controls.
Now, that doesn't mean that some aftermarket parts aren't sufficient. As a matter of fact, if you’re lucky, you will purchase an aftermarket part that was actually made with updated specs and maybe even by the original supplier! Often times they simply "label slap" a different brand name on them to sell them to various outlets, but it’s all the same part.
However, it’s still a gamble. On the flip side, sometimes even the OEM suppliers cut corners.
I’m just telling you what my experience has been and the knowledge I’ve gained from working directly in electronics and industrial manufacturing for 12 years and for the last 15 years in the IT industry.
The bottom line? The choice is yours based on your needs.
I have all aftermarket parts on mine, and mine runs perfect. I had the typical stalling issues on my 3.9 and replace everything initially, and guess what the upstream 02 sensor was the culprit. Granted I bought NTK oxygen sensors, at rockauto, but I pulled a Bosch out of my upstream, that had been in there for 5 years. Oil was being sucked through the pcv valve into the Intake and burn causing damage to my oxygen sensor. My truck had no codes BTW, being I'm a mechanic, and don't have a lot of time to work on my own stuff I didn't initially see oil in the intake, but once I did I knew exactly what the problem was.
rdvalla I parked mine because of this issue and got a new to me 04 dakota. Replaced everything with Mopar junk yard parts for diagnosis. No codes just idols down and stops running. I'll take a look at the 02 sensor when I get a chance would like to sell the 01 durango as a running truck for more money.
Heated oxygen sensor - is that the O2 sensor? If so which one would the Upstream be?
Thanks for the info. Having the same issue
On a 2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7 the island air control valve are there an adjustment on that or why do they put it on a set screw
My 03 had once die and always feel like it will stall when I shift it in to reverse.
I have a question for you or anyone that can answer. Where does the hose coming off the front of the throttle body by MAP sensor go? Mines is just laying unplugged and I don't see where it could connect to and if you could show picture of where it connects. Thanks to anyone that can help!
I have an 02 Dalota 3.9. Every once in a while I get a 'clicking' sound from the engine bay area accompanied by some hesitation in time with the clicking. Not throwing any codes though. Sometimes it stalls while sitting at a light, but starts right up. Anyone have any ideas what may be causing this? THANKS!
Fuel Supply, Vacuum leak, or possible timing issue, though normally that (timing off) should throw a code. However, IAC shouldn't really effect the engine while running, only in idle.
The IAC on my 91model is different from yours; the parts store has my 1991 listed as an 'idle speed control motor'. Do they both have the same function? Could my 91 version still be cleanable? Thank you!
Thanks for the effort. All aftermarket IAC's I have
seen do not fit. Plunger is too short to seal. One
guy says I didn't "initialize" it. Mopar is Not cheap.
$140. Old valve works fine until motor gets hot.
I think not cleaning the throttle body is a mistake
as there was a lot of carbon everywhere, literally
cakes falling off of plunger.
So did he say how to "initialize" the IAC? Thanks! Paul
What size torx bit screw?
no its not the AIC valve thats always everyones first assumption or fuel
pump ect.....the problem your having is stuck valves that are not
opening up...u need to get a bottle of oil and put some lube on those
springs and valve stems and bang on all of them with a hammer do this
on each piston at the bottom of the cynlinder so u dont damage the
valves or piston heads, hit them real good until they break loose and
they get well lubricated...very common with old engines with alot of
miles....i perferrably use bar oil in the valve stems cuz it works so
well...once u bang out all of them continuously they should all break
free...this will fix your idle problem..also wouldnt hurt to pull the
intake manifold off then take a look at the camshaft for wear..sticking
valves will cause the cam to go bad because lifters are not doing there
job due to the valve restriction.....hope this helps.
Michael Rundle where do i find the springs and valve heads
Julius B gotta pull the valve covers off and break free the valves with a hammer... the cylinder heads are on each side of the engine block take the covers off and break loose the valves with a hammer and make sure each cylinder is at the bottom of the stroke while doing this u don't want to break the valves or damage the piston heads if the idle problem still persists then there could be a bad intake or exhaust valve seat which can lose compression in whatever cylinder...u can find this out with a compression tester
Julius B what I did was clean my aic with wd40 and sand the little metal part and change my spark plug and also clean the throttle disc that open and close with wd40...I have to say it save me over almost 1000$ I bought some motorcraft apart plug for $1.00 ...I get the best of acceleration and best of quick start.
In my case when Idle problems occur i just disconnect the battery clean the poles and when i start it back up works like charm
My 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7/V8 is doing the same thing! i"m going to AutozZone to pick up a new sensor after I've installed some new ignition coils, that another story.
Somebody know how test the iac with voltmeter in a 4.7 engine?
thank you this really helped
Would this also cause it not go into, Overdrive? I changed the,TCC inside the transmission and it still won't go into Overdrive. Can anyone give me some input
Question, why did you not blow out the hole where this part went into?? I would feel that there would be dirt, trash and others thing to keep it from sealing up tight?? From the way the old one looked, it looked as if that area was very dirty. Thanks for the video...
There is no reason to clean it out, as it's just a stepper motor with a arm pushing on a plate to adjust idle position, no vacuums leaks will ever occur in that location.
OK Thank you...
Ok . I have heard enough about aftermarket parts. I usually buy my parts at a Napa Auto parts store. They usually have two grades of parts with two different prices I do not buy the cheaper parts from them You get what you pay for.Cheaper is not always bad. Depends on your budget. And expensive is NOT always that much better then cheaper.
Well said
Great video! Anyone know what size torx bit is needed to get the valve itself off? Thanks!
t20 i think
@@MrClubfoot90 T20 or a T25.
T25 for Throttle body sensor , which needed to be replaced on my truck.
But after seeing this video I'm going to replace the IAC too.
Should solve my issues completely.
Thanks for this video!
Part reminds me of a Toyota truck water pump.
I am having the same issue with my 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. Is this just as simple to change out on the caravan? The problem has been happeneing for almost a year now. The van has started to make a foghorn like sound after the engine warms up. I can make the noise stop my gently depressing the gas pedal, but as soon as I release, it make the noise again. I think this IAC is the issue.
I bought my boy a 2001 v-6 dodge dakota and all the sudden when he starts it after its been sitting awhile it idles very rough, like skipping kinda like it wants to stall, after it running for 2 or 3 minutes its smooth out and is fine, it only does it when it first started, is this similar to what yours was doing?? any thoughts or help from any one would be great.
Mike, I know this is a couple of years old, but did you ever find out what it was? I've got a 96 that does the same thing.
Charles or anyone, please tell me if this or anyother fix solved this issue. I have the 2001 Durango R/T 5.9L it is the vehicle I use for work and kids and everything, I absolutly love it, I don't want to cause long term dammage. I have taken it to the shop a few times to fix other things and always ask them to look into this and I get "we don't see a problem" or "we don't know what to do to fix it". PLEASE HELP!
very informative video,but my question is..i have 3.9litre engine in my dakota and it has a hesitstion when i give some gas to it.,i press the gas and it goes ..but not the way i believe it should it has hesitation to get the revs up...do you think the I A C has something to do with it or what else could it be?...thanx.
brent lee TPS !
I have a 1997 dodge dakota sport v8 5.2 I'm put it in reverse and drive if i don't keep it above 1000 to 1500 rpms it will die is it the same problem that u were talking about in your video
This is what my 99 Durango is currently doing. Did you ever solve your problem? I could use some advice. Thanks.
I have the same truck and need to know do I have to recalibrate the throttle???after replacing tps and iac my rpms are not steady and the engine hesitates
Your TPS needs to be recalibrated using a multimeter.
What size torx bit do you need for the screws?
I just did mine and it took a T25.
Do you unhook the battery or ground wire to the battery before doing this or not needed to unhook?
Personally I would not.
Yes so the computer can read the new sensor
hey man i have a 2000 dodge dakota and this morning it was the first morning it was really cold outside like 25 degrees well when i started my truck it started well but it kept shutting off because it was not idleing at all i would start it and it would shut off idk what it could be i had to rev up the enginge and just hall ass lol plz help me solve this problem.
Ha anyone had their IAC cause stalling and cranking but no start?
i fixed mine by removing air control . and plugging the hole with a rubber stopper. and block it with the air controller. and unplug the idle speed screw. and use that to control the idle RPM.
Did it actually work though lol
mreinsmith HELP...I have a 01 Dodge Dakota 3.9 Magnum engine...Runs GREAT! NOW on occasion after you've ran it, you go to restart it and it just cranks. BUT if you put the gas pedal to the floor, it starts right over. It does this randomly. Could you please help me out on this one? I used to be a mechanic in the 80s and 90s so I should understand what you have for me. Thanks in advance..You can message me any advice to.
Oy vey, my first thought was the IAC but it seems like you thought of that, I'll check the forums when I get a chance
***** I haven't replaced that no.
Sounds like your fuel pump if you have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it
What kind of air filter setup is that? I've been looking to get on for my 2001 dakota 3.9l but can't find one at all.
AIRAID (airaid.com)
mreinsmith does it run much better with it? Do you have a link or video to take the old intake off? I looked but don't know how to take the old box off
Instructions come with it, you should definitely have a service manual (I suggest alldatadiy.com)
mreinsmith thank you. How much better does the truck run with the aftermarket filter compared to the stock?
That is something that is debated far and wide, and I'll wager that my comment here will create another debate. However, In my case I felt that throttle response was much, much better, and the sound of the engine was great. As far as gas mileage I couldn't say. But for the throttle response improvement I would buy one again (in fact I did for my current truck with the same improvement) I'm told the bigger throttle plate also improves the response.
I like you video📹📹📹📹📹📹📹📹
I recently bought a 2002 Dakota Sport Club cab with the 3.9. I live in NC and bought the truck from my Dad, he lives in MI. I flew home to pick up the truck. Upon driving 750 miles back to NC the engine light came on. My neighbor has a scanner and was coming back with random misfire on 1,3 and 5 and misfire for each cylinder. I have changed Dist cap/rotor, plugs and wires, Ign coil, and PCV. Reset PCM and truck ran perfect no errors for about 20 minutes. Engine light came back on and at idle feels like it is going to stall.... Any ideas on whats next? I really appreciate it!
With misfires I would try troubleshooting in this order - map sensor (which helps control engine load, ignition advance and injector pulse) then O2 sensors, and MAYBE the IAC (but I kinda doubt it)
***** Before I changed the PCV, I removed the hose from the PCV and the engine went from 600 RPM to around 900 and stays strong at 900. The PCV was a very cheap part and the guy at O'riley's said I would be back in a week to get another one as the part is cheap and not made well.
Yep that hsppens, did you go get another?
No. Haven't even had the code scanned again but engine feels same as before. Very rough at idle...
I would take it back, if the parts store has another recommendation then go with that, with inexpensive parts like that the chances of getting a bad one right off the shelf are higher, you'll find that a lot with thermostats which is why I always test them first, hard to do that with a PCV
My truck went to 6000rpm and made a blow off sound like a turbo. Then it drove normally and through a car code. What could that be?
Holy shit
What size is the tork screw you use
Can I just clean off the Idle air control valve or should i just replace it?
I would think the sensor gets fried over time, but it would only cost time to try it
If it ohms out good, it's probably worth a shot since it's easy enough to replace.
oh i have the same exact problem right now, it turned out to be a mopar.
Where do you get the mopar parts for these truck's.
there are several good official dealers online, this one is in NY for example: moparonlineparts.com
or find the part number and try eBay or Amazon
Im having this same issue with my 2001 dodge durango, only difference mine wont start unless i press the gas peddle and hold it or it dies(wont idle). My brother in law told me to replace the IAC which i plan on doing later today. Should i also replace the Throttle Position Sensor? is there any way to know if these are nonfunctional? The auto body shop wants to charge me a non refundable non reducible service fee of $97.93 just to see what the issue is. Again no check engine light?
Mines doing the same thing. What did you end up doing?
@@ethansmith8813 I replaced the IAC if I remember correctly
@@CharlesLang676 thanks. Ill check my owm and see if i can clean it
Why didn't you just clean the old part?
I admit, only because I didn't want to spend the time on the chance it didn't work. That's where my experience with Mopar electronics may have jaded me. The part isn't expensive but every penny counts so it's worth a shot
I admit, only because I didn't want to spend the time on the chance it didn't work. That's where my experience with Mopar electronics may have jaded me. The part isn't expensive but every penny counts so it's worth a shot
Hey my be you can helpn me I hope my truck is a 99 3.9 1500 it idles real rough has a miss to it but it codes loss of camcrank sensor so I changed it and the crank sensor rebuilt the ecm put in a new distributor cap button wires plugs and it still codes the same with the same miss and problem what could be wrong with it can you help me please
Can you clean the IACV ?
Yes I sprayed my throttle body with cleaner and it solved my issues.
@@rlthomas what cleaner did you use i heard people on here using brake cleaner
More than likely I used the special Throttle Body spray just to be safe. But I can't remember for sure.
Carb cleaner kinda makes sense though. As long as there isn't too much plastic around it
I chose the throttle body spray and it worked like a charm.
Awesome! Thanks for posting your result
cool one thing put tape over carb hate to drop anything in it makes for a bad day im clumbsy
me too, great tip! thanks
what is the size of the torque bits screw?
T25
My problem is it dies when i drive it, it idles great until it obviously runs out of gas but ive changed literally everything and still nothing has changed
Did you test it with an OBD tester, if so is it throwing any codes? You can take it to a retail parts store to have It tested.
I'm not saying that will be the final answer, but it should point you in the right direction.
@@mreinsmith it read the computer not reading the column right, I don't remember the code but I changed the column as well as the column harness and still nothing
Do you mean you were getting a code on a steering column sensor? Or do you mean the reader?
@@mreinsmith I'm not sure it didn't specify
Well maybe the parts store's reader would work? Let me know what you get
did it fix it ? you never say so ?
Yes it did, but I've noticed in previous comments that it doesn't always. I have to look in the comments but there are other things that contribute to this issue, but this is a quick and inexpensive place to start
@@mreinsmith i recently changed my Throttle position sensor last night due to it powering off while switching gears and also hesitating when in park.. but it still hesitates like the rpms go high, now im thinking this can also be the problem a iac??
super low audio.
Is the IAC adjustable?
Not that I know of
@@mreinsmith I over heard two Dodge techs talking about adjusting the the IAC on a Dodge Dakota. One tech was telling another tech to turn out the crome valve 3-4 turns if the cold start idle is to low because it was loading up on cold start and fouling out the plugs. He said that the IAC was set for air fuel flow at cold start. He also said that if someone had turned it all the way in that it would give to much air and the computer would allow to much gas and foul out the plugs. So i started checking into it, and sure enough the IAC is adjustable on my 2001 Dodge Dakota 3.9L. And a few videos came up on adjusting the IAC. Some different vehicles have an adjustment screw on them, but dodge does not. You just have to take off IAC and turn the chrome tip manually to adjust it. Anyway it worked for me.
Wow, you learn to something new everyday, I have to look at my 1500 and see if that is the ssme
You should make your own video to get more of that message out there
If you do make your own send it to me and I'll put the link up in mine
But what you're forgetting to tell everybody while you're changing that I act or IA c or idle valve control is that you have to measure your old part with the new part?So that when you do fire, the vehicle up, it doesn't race away.Trying to suck in air that it thinks that it's missing.So you're not being totally honest with everybody when you go to put the new part in
That's a good point, but I wasn't aware of that. That's the exact reason why I recommend using OEM parts.
NOT a matter of honesty!
Or you could just clean it
Most numb nuts post these videos with no update on whether the problem was fixed, then thousands go and buy these parts, which is good for the parts stores ,but never fixes the problem . Cam sensor, crank sensor, maf sensor, isc sensor, ect. Parts changers has revolutionized the UA-cam industry.
Chasing sensors as usual. It's not always going to be this one or any of them. It's "one" of many things. same symptoms also. Don't bank on this being the resolve. Could be an INTAKE manifold gasket leak as well. Think about all the possibilities.
Great point, thanks for commenting!