I had a Subaru 2.0 litre and used it for my business, it was a subaru Legacy 2,0 estate and it had dine 80,000 miles when i bought it i used it as a service vehicle, and when i sold it it had done 220,000 miles plus and was still running well, the only problem i had with it was a worn rear offside wheel bearing, other than that with regular sevicing it passed many MOT's, and served me well. it certainly earned its money, It was used as a refrigeration and air conditioning vehicle carrying all the welding and braizing equipment, plus all the different refrig gas bottlles, plus tools, it was the most reliable vehicle i had.
As a mechanic. You can see it’s leaking on the up pipe flange close to the heat shield. I’d say that flange is warped as well. You can see it’s dark and sooty. Also the heat shield looks sooty. No good putting two gaskets on there and that assembly paste is useless. High temp, o2 sensor safe, silicone works much better. Honestly, the best thing to do is replace both pipes and you won’t have anymore problen]ms with it.
Just a thought here, Isaac. Check to see if the engine mounts are worn. If the mounts are worn, the engine will rock excessively and transfer the movement to the joints in the exhaust and break the seal. I would also check that the main exhaust hangers and ensure they are still flexible and the the exhaust can move around. The join between the exhaust and the manifolds is the weakest point if the engine is moving too much or there is not enough movement in the main exhaust hangers. I hope this helps and I have enjoyed the video mate!
That is a great point. Mounts are good (no excessive play) but still fairly old. May look further into this tho as it could definitely be breaking the seal!
Like that you think your way through things. Correct decision on the single gasket. AXLE STANDS !!! I had a saying for mechanics in my shops " Don't worry about axles , I've got a good pressure washer to clean the blood up after it falls on you."
Andy Hensman commenting from Missouri, USA, an English citizen who has lived in the US for almost 35 years. Great Videos! Regarding your exhaust blowing issue on the Suby. Have you considered Copper gaskets? Properly annealed copper gaskets can overcome things like uneven joint surfaces. When annealed, copper not only expands, it becomes quite soft and will squish down and conform to the uneven mating surfaces,. and you can coat the gasket surfaces with copper cement for extra sealing. I used to drag race bikes at SantaPod many years ago and we used copper gaskets, coated with copper sealant as head gaskets and they never blew. Even when pumping in 65+ psi of turbo pressure. Great thing about copper gaskets is they are re-usable. Just anneal them again and they expand up and become soft again. I did a quick search on the internet and saw Summit Racing sells copper exhaust gaskets that look a lot like yours. Good luck and thanks for all the videos
I can’t offer any advice Isaac but I enjoy watching you working things out logically. As for the small chips In the windscreen you mentioned previously there are cheap kits on EBay to make small repairs yourself. If you’ve got windscreen cover on your insurance you might find that small chips can be done for free, it’s worth checking. Anyway best wishes with your project, looking forward to seeing the next episode. Bob M. South Wales
I had a same problem on mine leaking turbo pipe to manifold my cure was to weld a brace to both sides on the widest parts on the v sides drilled to take an extra nut/bolt easy as plenty of room that extra clamping helped.
In addition to my copper gasket suggestion. Please take a gander at Alan Millyard's UA-cam videos about rebuilding the Norton Genesis V8 motorcycle. In episode 13, he uses his filing technique for leveling and evening the exhaust manifolds for this prototype motorcycle engine. It may help
If you are on a budget and have the time, then try the following suggestion. Remove the exhaust again, machine up 3 copies of the distorted flanges from thicker steel, bolt the 3 new flanges in place using 3 gaskets, cut the 3 bad flanges from the manifold and remove heat shielded if its restricting access, offer up the pipework only to the engine and up pipe, securely tack weld the pipework to the 3 new flanges, remove manifold and fully weld up on the bench paying attention with heat so as not to distort alignment. I have replaced distorted flanges this way for years with 100% success.
Find some grade 8 or 12.9 metric fender washers and trim to fit as needed. They'll be much thicker than a standard grade one. Also, I'd suggest replacing the fasteners with flanged bolts & nuts. In combination the clamping force will be spread out over a greater area of the flange.
i put a used engine from japan in my xt outback 2008 I used all the japanese exhaust and turbo. not the stuff for usa . I didn't touch any of it/ no unbolting it has been a year now ! maybe you can get used exhaust manifold's from japan??? but I am here in usa and we have a ton of the used engines from japan good luck
Hi. In your video you did not use axles stands. Plus on your own at work. Very dangerous. If hydraulic jack failed you could been killed. Your boss and College should be explaining safety in the work place
Use bigger diameter bolts on the up pipe flange. Even it you have to drill the holes slightly bigger. Use bigger washers on both sides even if you have to grind one edge for clearance to fit.
Why don't you make a bridging piece with 3 holes in it to clamp between the 2 bolt holes as a backing plate. follow the profile of the exhaust flanges and fit it in the middle of the V. makes sense in my head but maybe confusing to you. Not sure if you'd have enough space to do it but,it would increase the clamping force on the gasket. would be great if I could upload a CAD drawing of my idea
Just a thought. Could you put a short length of stainless steel tube which has a external diameter that matches the internal diameter of the pipe ports, between the two pipes when connecting them using the same gaskets. Though it would reduce the flow of the exhaust gases by a small amount.
Check your exhaust temp as it warms up with a digital thermometer because you might be running lean on one cylinder like loose injector plug or wire or plugged injector I know you tested but? Lean cylinders burn pistons. Just look for temp coming all up the same and should be the same when warm and running exact temp don't matter 600 700f I don't know c but as long as they are 20 or 30 deg the same or one isn't 25% hotter, right? Or crack on?
If you think it is going to take replacing the up pipe to get things to seal. Why don't you first pull that up pipe and file it flat as well. I know it's a pain but if you replace you'll be doing it as well. Seems like a cheap way (labor and gaskets) to give it one more go before spending the 700.
I was told in the past with perfect surface you do not need a gasket. so check your parts and when not flat buy new. And yes non surface are perfect. In the Netherlands we have a fraice "wie mooi will zijn , moet pijn lijden. Translated. if you want to be beautiful, you have to suffer.
The 3.8 buick v6 doesn't use gaskets get rid of the fnnnn thing and get a car that only has one head I don't see what people see in Subaru's ok thay go good but so does a rocket and thay are only one use to
mate thats a pants manifold welds on the inside of the down pipes create restrictions ... the flange to downpipe should have been welded on the outside ... no wonder its blowing like a steam train whistle
Those flanges on the pipes are ridiculous, material too thin, and a daft shape for the stresses involved. 3 bolts doing a job that needs 6. A job for that good old company, Hackit and Weld methinks!
Hey up mate nice work but that manifold is a pretty shit design spend the dosh or maybe do a cut and shut on it, surprised your boss couldn't give help
Willy Messerschmidt said in german ,,, Maschinelemente teaching to his small mechanics. Many small, long bolts . .. to understand your problems I compare to my vw Polo ... Young man.. you are missing a hole. You have 3 holes to tighten that flange. You should have had 4 like VW .. In terms I think 6 would have been much better... Thats your mechanical issue .. ( I had the Sherif of Nothingham in ) CES and Mechanical Engineering... and David Ascroft was from UK and Notthingham.. SO ... 5 stars ... you have to think out of the box to get a better tight flat surface. I would consider another way of pressing all of thing togehter... same gasket as you use.. but some other way to do it ... more flange holes and more bolts. 5 stars
with you being so young what's the insurance gioing cost with 300 hp ..that would be my worry ,.,,no way woud i pay..it would stay as it is, the rates they are charged for young people these days is nuts
Is it worth spending another 700 on a performance manifold and have it done and dusted. With improved performance. As you’re chipping it as well? Just a thought, big money £660 from Roger Clarke Motorsports. but peace of mind.
I had a Subaru 2.0 litre and used it for my business, it was a subaru Legacy 2,0 estate and it had dine 80,000 miles when i bought it i used it as a service vehicle, and when i sold it it had done 220,000 miles plus and was still running well, the only problem i had with it was a worn rear offside wheel bearing, other than that with regular sevicing it passed many MOT's, and served me well. it certainly earned its money, It was used as a refrigeration and air conditioning vehicle carrying all the welding and braizing equipment, plus all the different refrig gas bottlles, plus tools, it was the most reliable vehicle i had.
As a mechanic. You can see it’s leaking on the up pipe flange close to the heat shield. I’d say that flange is warped as well. You can see it’s dark and sooty. Also the heat shield looks sooty. No good putting two gaskets on there and that assembly paste is useless. High temp, o2 sensor safe, silicone works much better. Honestly, the best thing to do is replace both pipes and you won’t have anymore problen]ms with it.
Just a thought here, Isaac. Check to see if the engine mounts are worn. If the mounts are worn, the engine will rock excessively and transfer the movement to the joints in the exhaust and break the seal. I would also check that the main exhaust hangers and ensure they are still flexible and the the exhaust can move around. The join between the exhaust and the manifolds is the weakest point if the engine is moving too much or there is not enough movement in the main exhaust hangers. I hope this helps and I have enjoyed the video mate!
That is a great point. Mounts are good (no excessive play) but still fairly old. May look further into this tho as it could definitely be breaking the seal!
It shouldn’t move as it goes between the heads and the turbo. The weakest point is the exhaust outlet from the turbo to the exhaust pipe.
Basically you need to replace that part of the exhaust. Really should be done before you get it remapped.
Like that you think your way through things. Correct decision on the single gasket. AXLE STANDS !!! I had a saying for mechanics in my shops " Don't worry about axles , I've got a good pressure washer to clean the blood up after it falls on you."
Andy Hensman commenting from Missouri, USA, an English citizen who has lived in the US for almost 35 years. Great Videos!
Regarding your exhaust blowing issue on the Suby.
Have you considered Copper gaskets?
Properly annealed copper gaskets can overcome things like uneven joint surfaces. When annealed, copper not only expands, it becomes quite soft and will squish down and conform to the uneven mating surfaces,.
and you can coat the gasket surfaces with copper cement for extra sealing.
I used to drag race bikes at SantaPod many years ago and we used copper gaskets, coated with copper sealant as head gaskets and they never blew. Even when pumping in 65+ psi of turbo pressure.
Great thing about copper gaskets is they are re-usable. Just anneal them again and they expand up and become soft again.
I did a quick search on the internet and saw Summit Racing sells copper exhaust gaskets that look a lot like yours.
Good luck and thanks for all the videos
another thing loosen the turbo from the engine tighten the down pipe to the turbo then tighten the turbo to the engine
I can’t offer any advice Isaac but I enjoy watching you working things out logically. As for the small chips In the windscreen you mentioned previously there are cheap kits on EBay to make small repairs yourself. If you’ve got windscreen cover on your insurance you might find that small chips can be done for free, it’s worth checking. Anyway best wishes with your project, looking forward to seeing the next episode. Bob M. South Wales
This is why us old people get Nissan Micra`s. Take the seats out and 0-60 in 3.5 seconds. :) :)
I had a same problem on mine leaking turbo pipe to manifold my cure was to weld a brace to both sides on the widest parts on the v sides drilled to take an extra nut/bolt easy as plenty of room that extra clamping helped.
Suggestion: torque the manifold to the head first, then the manifold to the up-pipe, then the up-pipe to the turbo, in that order
In addition to my copper gasket suggestion. Please take a gander at Alan Millyard's UA-cam videos about rebuilding the Norton Genesis V8 motorcycle. In episode 13, he uses his filing technique for leveling and evening the exhaust manifolds for this prototype motorcycle engine.
It may help
If you are on a budget and have the time, then try the following suggestion. Remove the exhaust again, machine up 3 copies of the distorted flanges from thicker steel, bolt the 3 new flanges in place using 3 gaskets, cut the 3 bad flanges from the manifold and remove heat shielded if its restricting access, offer up the pipework only to the engine and up pipe, securely tack weld the pipework to the 3 new flanges, remove manifold and fully weld up on the bench paying attention with heat so as not to distort alignment. I have replaced distorted flanges this way for years with 100% success.
Find some grade 8 or 12.9 metric fender washers and trim to fit as needed. They'll be much thicker than a standard grade one. Also, I'd suggest replacing the fasteners with flanged bolts & nuts. In combination the clamping force will be spread out over a greater area of the flange.
Loving the vids and content Isaac, keep it up 👍
i put a used engine from japan in my xt outback 2008 I used all the japanese exhaust and turbo. not the stuff for usa . I didn't touch any of it/ no unbolting it has been a year now ! maybe you can get used exhaust manifold's from japan??? but I am here in usa and we have a ton of the used engines from japan good luck
Hi. In your video you did not use axles stands. Plus on your own at work. Very dangerous. If hydraulic jack failed you could been killed. Your boss and College should be explaining safety in the work place
Use bigger diameter bolts on the up pipe flange. Even it you have to drill the holes slightly bigger. Use bigger washers on both sides even if you have to grind one edge for clearance to fit.
I wonder if there is back pressure in the exhaust system causing gases to force out past gaskets . ?
fingers crossed that's the solution. Double gasket not a good plan IMHO. Just gonna leak between the gaskets.
Why don't you make a bridging piece with 3 holes in it to clamp between the 2 bolt holes as a backing plate. follow the profile of the exhaust flanges
and fit it in the middle of the V. makes sense in my head but maybe confusing to you. Not sure if you'd have enough space to do it but,it would increase the clamping force on the gasket. would be great if I could upload a CAD drawing of my idea
fitting twin gackets could solve the problem? worth a try from past experience
Nut and bolt upgrade to the best tensile that’ll get through the holes.
How thick is the exhaust flange? If it’s thin it could be warping when it’s hot.
Axle stands please
Looking forward to the mapping day video!
Beware which manifold you get, some are 💩and hinder flow.
If you have2 go for the ss option, that’s the same amount of work as removing the original item and filing it flat like you have the others?
Just a thought. Could you put a short length of stainless steel tube which has a external diameter that matches the internal diameter of the pipe ports, between the two pipes when connecting them using the same gaskets. Though it would reduce the flow of the exhaust gases by a small amount.
Check your exhaust temp as it warms up with a digital thermometer because you might be running lean on one cylinder like loose injector plug or wire or plugged injector I know you tested but? Lean cylinders burn pistons. Just look for temp coming all up the same and should be the same when warm and running exact temp don't matter 600 700f I don't know c but as long as they are 20 or 30 deg the same or one isn't 25% hotter, right? Or crack on?
What happens with your insurance when you get your engine mapped and increase horse power output?
Answer: Your premium goes up.
Oh geez Isaac, that really sucks!! Is there room under the head of the bolts of the up-pipe to distribute the fastener load across its flange?
Admire your determination Isaac but if this don’t work this time you will have to bite the bullet and buy a new manifold👍
Not the exhaust manifolds then......or its the turbo flange.
If you think it is going to take replacing the up pipe to get things to seal. Why don't you first pull that up pipe and file it flat as well. I know it's a pain but if you replace you'll be doing it as well. Seems like a cheap way (labor and gaskets) to give it one more go before spending the 700.
Probably what I’m gonna have to do!
I was told in the past with perfect surface you do not need a gasket. so check your parts and when not flat buy new.
And yes non surface are perfect.
In the Netherlands we have a fraice "wie mooi will zijn , moet pijn lijden. Translated.
if you want to be beautiful, you have to suffer.
The 3.8 buick v6 doesn't use gaskets get rid of the fnnnn thing and get a car that only has one head I don't see what people see in Subaru's ok thay go good but so does a rocket and thay are only one use to
Grimmspeed do thicker gaskets check out what you can get
Thank you🙏 going to have a look now!!
mate thats a pants manifold welds on the inside of the down pipes create restrictions ... the flange to downpipe should have been welded on the outside ... no wonder its blowing like a steam train whistle
Did you get your bonnet sorted out --- it did look as if person had dropped something on it .
Only Three times? , welcome to owning modified performance cars dude. onec you start shelling out you have to keep on or it goes to waste
Those flanges on the pipes are ridiculous, material too thin, and a daft shape for the stresses involved. 3 bolts doing a job that needs 6. A job for that good old company, Hackit and Weld methinks!
Hey up mate nice work but that manifold is a pretty shit design spend the dosh or maybe do a cut and shut on it, surprised your boss couldn't give help
Put on a 4 gas analyser look at live readings etc.
Before ye burn some valves.just a taugh.wp.
Is there no scuby lads out there that can point isac in the right direction.come on if it was ford he have no problem. We're ye all.🇨🇮
Use proper subaru gaskets
Never had an issue
Don't use those items as they are crap
Willy Messerschmidt said in german ,,, Maschinelemente teaching to his small mechanics. Many small, long bolts . .. to understand your problems I compare to my vw Polo ... Young man.. you are missing a hole. You have 3 holes to tighten that flange. You should have had 4 like VW .. In terms I think 6 would have been much better... Thats your mechanical issue .. ( I had the Sherif of Nothingham in ) CES and Mechanical Engineering... and David Ascroft was from UK and Notthingham.. SO ... 5 stars ... you have to think out of the box to get a better tight flat surface. I would consider another way of pressing all of thing togehter... same gasket as you use.. but some other way to do it ... more flange holes and more bolts. 5 stars
I would let that thing go
Is this channel always going to be about the Subaru now
with you being so young what's the insurance gioing cost with 300 hp ..that would be my worry ,.,,no way woud i pay..it would stay as it is, the rates they are charged for young people these days is nuts
I would have thought in the event of a serious claim the insurance would be void, resulting in potentially a court case and a sentence/ban.
My son is similar age with similar cars. It's pretty expensive, but if it's your passion, you just swallow the costs and carry on.
Just post the video
Is it worth spending another 700 on a performance manifold and have it done and dusted. With improved performance. As you’re chipping it as well? Just a thought, big money £660 from Roger Clarke Motorsports. but peace of mind.