Here are the tools I used in this video! Brake Caliper Hooks: amzn.to/3TUO7eO Brake Caliper Compression Tool: amzn.to/3zTqrjj CRC Brake Caliper Grease: amzn.to/3JYlA44 Brake Pads: amzn.to/3d8qCyj Brake Rotor: amzn.to/3L67wWj As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
You should always cross references the part numbers with your specific truck. Depending on which package you have, they may be different part numbers. Which part numbers do you see in the description? They match what I ordered for my truck.
Doing my rears this weekend. Took a look just as a refresher, and boy I would have never tossed the ebrake into maintenance mode. I didn't even know that was a thing! Thank you for this!
I want to thank you for having this great video on here. It helped me out greatly. Although I had found a little short cut. Before I took off the top caliper bolt, I used a 12 inch wood clamp on the caliper to push the piston in. Then I only took the top bolt off, and the caliper will move back, pivoting on the still attached bottom bolt, exposing the brake pads. Thanks again for helping me with this.
2021 F-150: Great video by the way, thank you. With my 2021 F-150, there’s an extra step to get it OUT OF MAINTENANCE MODE. 1. Push ignition button once for accessory mode 2. Push accelerator all the way down 3. Pull up on e-brake lever 4. PRESS ON BRAKE PEDAL FOR AT LEAST ONE SECOND WHILE HOLDING GAS DOWN AND EBRAKE UP 5. Release brake pedal (still holding down gas and pulling ebrake) 6. Turn car off 7. Within 5 seconds turn car back on (all while holding down gas and pulling up on e-brake) I was missing the foot on brake step and it wouldn’t get out of maintenance mode.
Appreciate the video man. My rotors are FUSED lol. I tried everything short of the torch to get them off...not happening. That's a project for another day lol, new pads are on and down the road I go. Thanks for the tip about the e brake, I would have never figured that out on my own.
No way haha my 2019's odo just clocked 52k as well. Went in for an oil change (to show proof/record of maintenance) and they rotated my tires, told me rear pads are nearly metal to metal. Ordered pads as soon as I got home. She worked hard her first half of her life, towing a 9,000 lbs travel trailer. But now I have a class C RV and she's retired from pulling anything, just my daily now. Thanks for the great vid!!!!
Yep! Pulling trailers will definitely wear out these brakes much quicker than trucks that are commuters. Having a class C RV must have made a big quality of life improvement. My slides went on my front brakes around that mileage. Worth checking those out when you take it apart. Thanks for watching!
Great video and very helpful as I changed my rear brakes today. One thing I would add is the old rotors can get rusted tight on the axle. It took a lot of very careful hammering to get the old rotor off. I did put grease on for easier removal next time. Thanks again!
I did need a small sledgehammer. Hit very carefully with the caliper off, from the back, but NOT on the thin protective shield behind most of the rotor. For the record, my 2018 Lariat had about 49,500 miles on it and the passenger side rear pad was completely worn down to metal. @@SmackeysGarage Thanks again, great video!
Fantastic. Glad I watched it. I've done brakes in the past bit didn't know about the park brake maybe mode. The tutorial was complete and accurate. Thanks
Funny, I just did this same thing on my 2016 F150. Mine lasted for just over 92,000 miles but a lot of that was highway It took me forever to get the right steps figured out for getting into maintenance mode. I had to watch three different UA-cam videos to put it all together. Wish your video had been out. Putting it in maintenance mode is what allows you to compress the rear caliper. I thought about recording a video myself. Sadly I just needed to get the job done. Ran into the same issue with the 7 MM wrench being too big to fit and also used vice grips to keep it from spinning. Another issue I ran into was the lug nuts on my rear wheels had swollen. The ones on the driver's side were so bad that I had to take it to a shop to remove and put on new ones I had bought from a parts store. Lug nuts were about $10 each. I would recommend folks check their lugs when they have their tires rotated. I would not rely on shops to tell you if there are issues. I had new tires put on recently and the shop did not say a thing about the lugs.
I guess I was a week too late! I actually ended up parking the truck for a week since I couldn't get pads and rotors for it.. Everyone is sold out but I finally found the stock ones at RockAuto.I hear you about the lug nuts. I had an 11 F150 and the lug nuts also got swollen. If you end up with a flat on the side of the road, the wrench that comes with the truck is NOT taking them off. I've learned to check mine once a year after my flat tire. I ended up replacing the last trucks lug nuts with one piece ones, I believe from Gorilla.
Just had Walmart to put on 4 new tires on my 2019 f150, funny thing is most of my lug nuts are swollen. I had rotated my tire a couple of times before with no problem. Go figure😢
Excellent video. Just a heads up for anyone out there, a really usefull tool to own is a milled face crescent wrench such as, Channellock - 8 Xtra Slim Jaw Adj Wrench It has proven invaluable in many instances where a thin wrench has been needed.
Just did my rear brakes and just push the piston in I crack the bleeder and use a spreader with a plate similar to yours everywhere I was saying online said that they have to be rotated but I just pushed mine in so I'm glad I watched your video I have an 18 as well and you said that it says in the manual not to twist them so I feel better about not twisting them now That's the only thing that I wasn't sure about
I got this from AllData. I was using the pumpkin to lift my truck like others. I saw this now I'm afraid to go that way anymore. NOTICE: Do not use the differential housing as a lift point. Leaks or damage to the rear axle cover and adjoining differential housing surface may occur if a floor jack or any lifting device is allowed to contact the cover at any point where the cover joins the housing.
You do have a good point. I always ensure the jack is not touching the rear cover. I believe the rear cover is RTV'd as a gasket. I would also NEVER use the scissor jack supplied with the truck as a jack on the rear pumpkin.
I like all the information you shared on this video, I just think if you grease the pines every time you replace the brake pads it is to work better. Thanks
Thanks for the info, you process to put the truck in brake maintenance mode, was the spot on, other folks hold the button before turning on the key, which gives you more steps Thanks again
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but my truck is not going into service mode. Truck on (not running), push brake button down, accelerator down, (do I keep them pressed when turning the truck off & back on within 5 seconds?)
Great video. Just want to make sure the pads and rotors you have listed are the right ones for my 2018 F-150 XLT 2.7L V6. Do you have other suggestions besides the pads and rotors you have listed? I see many choices and I'm not sure which one to pick... Again, great video and well explained and demonstrated.
Really depends what packages are on the truck. I'd use Tasca ford to cross reference the Motorcraft parts if you go that way. www.tascaparts.com/v-2018-ford-f-150--xlt--2-7l-v6-gas/brakes--rear-brakes Otherwise, I've heard good things about PowerStop brakes on trucks. I haven't tried any brands other than those two on my truck.
Id either lock your exposure in manual mode "M", or use your phone. Your phone will fix focus issues, but you can't lock your exposure. Your exposure will be all over the place when filming something dark, like this. Anyway, way take off the rotors? I've never done a break job but my 2019 f150 breaks just started to grind at 57k miles in Michigan (I saw your UofM shirt in a different vid). Thanks.
Your camera tips are good. I've definitely gotten better since I've been making this video. You can see a lot of the better quality in more recent videos. Ahh Michigan! Yea I did go to UofM but am in New England now. You're experiencing the same as I do with these trucks and rust. To get the rotors off I use a small 3-5lb sledge hammer. I've always been able to get them off my Fords with that.
Great information, clear sound and video without loud annoying music. What brand of rotors and pads have you used for front and rear?, can you put down a link? Thanks
Hey Fatos Fanaj, the links are in the description of the video. I used all OEM Motorcraft parts when doing the replacement. I also have a video on the front brakes (I'll make sure the links are there as well). Glad to hear you liked the video. That is what I was going for. Clear sound/video and cutting the video "fat" out.
Really appreciate this real-time like video. I have 2018 F150 and I think mine need replacement. Was there any tool that you can suggest that would help instead of the wise grip?
Brake Caliper Compression tool is a must, linked in the description. I would also make sure you can get the truck into and out of service mode for the emergency brake if you have the electronic one. If you aren't able to get that to work, you will need a tool to get it into service mode.
@SmackeysGarage we've put 60k mostly highway miles. Unsure about the 1st 30k. Having major issues with vvt sensors at this point, rpm fluctuations at idle, stall at red lights. Very frustrating, warranty is gone. Been a problem with the coyote since 2011, Ford still can't fix it. The oil pressure drops to 12 psi when its "hunting" for proper air fuel mixture. We need a proper vvt delete. Replacing the sensors last only so long. The micro filters get clogged and starve the motor. It's literally killing itself for no reason.
Don't know if this will help ya but just to my truck into the shop and it ended up being rear parking brakes being stuck. Ending up needed to replace the whole rear parking brake assembly on both sides, including the hardware and shoes.
Hello question I’m a bit confused for the electric break reset, for the break turn on mantienen mode do you released the gas pedal when turn the key off or you keep it pressing on till get in break mantenimiento mode?
I believe I was holding it until it was in maintenance mode. Here is some written out instructions. ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/ford-electronic-parking-brake-service-mode/
Are you holding the gas pedal down the entire time your setting the truck's electronic parking brake in maintance mode? If so, is that going to flood the truck with gasoline?
You do hold the accelerator pedal down during the process. It won’t flood the engine with gasoline in a EFI truck. A carburetor will pump in fuel with a full press of the accelerator. An EFI system is looking at more than just throttle position. I also believe the engine won’t do anything until the engine starts turning over. If you have FORSCAN and an OBD link you can put the parking brake in service mode without going through these steps
Do you need to do anything with the parking break that doesn’t have the electronic parking brake? Or is just the same procedure as front pads, just compress the pistons?
I haven't worked on one of those. I'd check to see how the caliper activates using the manual parking brake. I'd guess it is a lever and is spring actuated.
I don’t do too much towing and it’s only lighter stuff like snowmobiles and jet skis. I’d say 50k miles seems to be the norm among people who have responded. My truck did have life left in the pads and rotors when I replaced them, but a slide was frozen.
I may have missed it, but did you pull off the caliper pins and booties and check the pins for rust and the booties for holes, if no rust clean um up, lube um and reinstall pins/booties? Or just get new pins and booties?
I typically pull them and clean them up and regrease them as you said. The rear brakes on my truck that's how it went. On the front, I had a stuck pin and had to replace them.
Rear brake pads but didn’t put E brake in maintenance mode so now I have a piston that’s stuck engaged and when I push it back in just pushes fluid out so not sure what to do next
Did you try and push it back in with a c-clamp or a tool? I would not do that if you haven't already... Without the parking brake in maintenance mode you risk damaging the e-brake motor.
Read the answer here. Might provide more clarification for a 2018: www.justanswer.com/car/hlhak-2018-ford-f150-rear-brakes-electronic-parking-brake-put.html
Hey, quick question about this and your rotor confirmed it. I put new pads on my rears and the new pad is much wider than the old one's were. Is this by design? Braking from interstate speeds causes bad shudder and we can see the new pads eating more of the unused rotor that the old pads did not touch.
I hear ya. This was the first vehicle I've done this job on with an electric parking brake. I did not bleed the brakes because I did not disconnect the caliper or open any of the lines.
This. Put it in maintenance mode. I don't actually know. I'm guessing pushing the brake caliper in could get it out of calibration or it could be a safety thing.
Dad took the rotor&everything off then put it into maintenance mode. Instead of retracting into the caliper,it extended&never would retract back. Ended up just spending $220 getting new ones then putting the new parts on my truck
I’m not sure. I would try calling a dealer for some advice on this one. They may tell you to disconnect the battery for ten minutes and then check it but I have no idea.
replacing my rears at 32k. Pads wore uneven, inside of rear rotors are a rusted nightmare with minimal contact patch on rotor. Fronts look good. Not replacing them.
Explain to me how jacking a truck up from the center of the rear axle (which is designed to support the weight of the rear plus a safety limit over maximum payload capacity is bad for the truck?
@@garypic4083 I know, but I would argue that the casting is strong enough to support the weight of the rear end until jack stand can be placed underneath.
Not sure. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with that step. If you download FORScan and get an OBDLink cable, you can enter in service mode that way as well.
Here are the tools I used in this video!
Brake Caliper Hooks: amzn.to/3TUO7eO
Brake Caliper Compression Tool: amzn.to/3zTqrjj
CRC Brake Caliper Grease: amzn.to/3JYlA44
Brake Pads: amzn.to/3d8qCyj
Brake Rotor: amzn.to/3L67wWj
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
why are the brake pads in the description different from the video?
You should always cross references the part numbers with your specific truck. Depending on which package you have, they may be different part numbers. Which part numbers do you see in the description? They match what I ordered for my truck.
Doing my rears this weekend. Took a look just as a refresher, and boy I would have never tossed the ebrake into maintenance mode. I didn't even know that was a thing! Thank you for this!
No problem! It’s an important step
My brother jacked up his truck because he didn’t put his truck in maintenance mode now going to pay about 1k in parts for damages I guess
Same here! Been 15 years since I’ve changed brakes. New tech!
I want to thank you for having this great video on here. It helped me out greatly.
Although I had found a little short cut. Before I took off the top caliper bolt, I used a 12 inch wood clamp on the caliper to push the piston in. Then I only took the top bolt off, and the caliper will move back, pivoting on the still attached bottom bolt, exposing the brake pads.
Thanks again for helping me with this.
No prob! That's a good idea to leave that bottom bolt out and being able to pivot the caliper. Didn't think about that, but great tip!
2021 F-150: Great video by the way, thank you. With my 2021 F-150, there’s an extra step to get it OUT OF MAINTENANCE MODE.
1. Push ignition button once for accessory mode
2. Push accelerator all the way down
3. Pull up on e-brake lever
4. PRESS ON BRAKE PEDAL FOR AT LEAST ONE SECOND WHILE HOLDING GAS DOWN AND EBRAKE UP
5. Release brake pedal (still holding down gas and pulling ebrake)
6. Turn car off
7. Within 5 seconds turn car back on (all while holding down gas and pulling up on e-brake)
I was missing the foot on brake step and it wouldn’t get out of maintenance mode.
Interesting it changed on the later vehicles. Thanks for sharing!
thanks!! it didnt work for me doing exactly on the video , F150 Lauriat hybrid 2020 here
Thanks for the video! Never would’ve guessed you needed to do something with the parking brake!
No problem! Yep, without doing that step you could damage your parking brake mechanism! Thanks for watching.
Appreciate the video man. My rotors are FUSED lol. I tried everything short of the torch to get them off...not happening.
That's a project for another day lol, new pads are on and down the road I go. Thanks for the tip about the e brake, I would have never figured that out on my own.
When and if you do get them off make sure you put any seas on both sides so that the rotor doesn't seize again or the wheel seizeto the rotor
No way haha my 2019's odo just clocked 52k as well. Went in for an oil change (to show proof/record of maintenance) and they rotated my tires, told me rear pads are nearly metal to metal. Ordered pads as soon as I got home.
She worked hard her first half of her life, towing a 9,000 lbs travel trailer. But now I have a class C RV and she's retired from pulling anything, just my daily now.
Thanks for the great vid!!!!
Yep! Pulling trailers will definitely wear out these brakes much quicker than trucks that are commuters. Having a class C RV must have made a big quality of life improvement. My slides went on my front brakes around that mileage. Worth checking those out when you take it apart. Thanks for watching!
@SmackeysGarage thanks for the tip! Did my rears last night and it was a breeze thanks to your vid! Thanks!!! I should look at my fronts now...
Great video and very helpful as I changed my rear brakes today. One thing I would add is the old rotors can get rusted tight on the axle. It took a lot of very careful hammering to get the old rotor off. I did put grease on for easier removal next time. Thanks again!
That's a good tip. Did you end up using a small sledgehammer to get them off? I've had times where it took a lot of hammering to remove them.
I did need a small sledgehammer. Hit very carefully with the caliper off, from the back, but NOT on the thin protective shield behind most of the rotor.
For the record, my 2018 Lariat had about 49,500 miles on it and the passenger side rear pad was completely worn down to metal.
@@SmackeysGarage Thanks again, great video!
I like the bracket design on this truck don’t even need to take it off to change the rotor!
Definitely agree with you there! The front I had to take it off, but the rear was nice and easy.
Fantastic. Glad I watched it. I've done brakes in the past bit didn't know about the park brake maybe mode. The tutorial was complete and accurate. Thanks
Glad it helped! You are welcome!
Funny, I just did this same thing on my 2016 F150. Mine lasted for just over 92,000 miles but a lot of that was highway It took me forever to get the right steps figured out for getting into maintenance mode. I had to watch three different UA-cam videos to put it all together. Wish your video had been out. Putting it in maintenance mode is what allows you to compress the rear caliper. I thought about recording a video myself. Sadly I just needed to get the job done. Ran into the same issue with the 7 MM wrench being too big to fit and also used vice grips to keep it from spinning. Another issue I ran into was the lug nuts on my rear wheels had swollen. The ones on the driver's side were so bad that I had to take it to a shop to remove and put on new ones I had bought from a parts store. Lug nuts were about $10 each. I would recommend folks check their lugs when they have their tires rotated. I would not rely on shops to tell you if there are issues. I had new tires put on recently and the shop did not say a thing about the lugs.
I guess I was a week too late! I actually ended up parking the truck for a week since I couldn't get pads and rotors for it.. Everyone is sold out but I finally found the stock ones at RockAuto.I hear you about the lug nuts. I had an 11 F150 and the lug nuts also got swollen. If you end up with a flat on the side of the road, the wrench that comes with the truck is NOT taking them off. I've learned to check mine once a year after my flat tire. I ended up replacing the last trucks lug nuts with one piece ones, I believe from Gorilla.
Just had Walmart to put on 4 new tires on my 2019 f150, funny thing is most of my lug nuts are swollen. I had rotated my tire a couple of times before with no problem. Go figure😢
@angusblack9900 Mine do the same after a few years. Worth upgrading them.
Your video was perfect instructions to replace pads and easy to follow. Thanks.
Glad it helped!
Excellent video. Just a heads up for anyone out there, a really usefull tool to own is a milled face crescent wrench such as, Channellock - 8 Xtra Slim Jaw Adj Wrench
It has proven invaluable in many instances where a thin wrench has been needed.
I’ll have to pick up that tool and try it out. Thanks!
no fancy clamp required .. a welding clamp works great .. cheep . harb freight.. and thanks for the vid
Yep. Not needed. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the vid I used this today to change my rear brakes and rotors
Thanks for this. I've done this job before, but I needed a refresher course :)
No problem Pancho. Glad this was able to help!
Just did my rear brakes and just push the piston in I crack the bleeder and use a spreader with a plate similar to yours everywhere I was saying online said that they have to be rotated but I just pushed mine in so I'm glad I watched your video I have an 18 as well and you said that it says in the manual not to twist them so I feel better about not twisting them now That's the only thing that I wasn't sure about
Great video, and I love the fact that you got her involved.
I got this from AllData. I was using the pumpkin to lift my truck like others. I saw this now I'm afraid to go that way anymore.
NOTICE: Do not use the differential housing as a lift point. Leaks or damage to the rear axle cover and adjoining differential housing surface may occur if a floor jack or any lifting device is allowed to contact the cover at any point where the cover joins the housing.
You do have a good point. I always ensure the jack is not touching the rear cover. I believe the rear cover is RTV'd as a gasket. I would also NEVER use the scissor jack supplied with the truck as a jack on the rear pumpkin.
Where do u suggest for lift point to lift up rear of f150 ? Thanks
@Che Izaguirre I too, noticed all the "Don't do it this way" but nothing about how to "Do it this way" 🤔
This video was great. Walked me right through doing it on my own. Easy to understand!
Glad it helped!
Thank you. Your video gave me the confidence to do the job
I like all the information you shared on this video,
I just think if you grease the pines every time you replace the brake pads it is to work better. Thanks
Thank you so much for your video I was able to replaced the rear rotors and break pads without issues. As gratitude I also subscribed to your channel.
Glad it helped!
Thanks a million man. Very informative. Appreciate it
You are welcome!
Thanks for the info, you process to put the truck in brake maintenance mode, was the spot on, other folks hold the button before turning on the key, which gives you more steps
Thanks again
No problem! Glad you found it helpful.
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but my truck is not going into service mode. Truck on (not running), push brake button down, accelerator down, (do I keep them pressed when turning the truck off & back on within 5 seconds?)
Great video thank you for the step by step 💯
You are welcome!
Thank you for the video , it was a great help......saved me a lot of headache😅
Glad to help!
Thanks for posting. Made it easy. Auto Zone rents the caliper brake piston tool.
That is a good point. Easy to rent if you don’t want to buy one. Thanks!
Saved my Saturday thank you!
Glad to hear!
Thanks for putting this out there!
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video, Smackey!
Thanks for watching David!
Very good explanation great job
Thanks!
Great tutorial. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Thank you sir! This video was great. Super helpful. Especially how to do the parking brake.
57000
You’re welcome! Glad it helped you.
Great video. Just want to make sure the pads and rotors you have listed are the right ones for my 2018 F-150 XLT 2.7L V6. Do you have other suggestions besides the pads and rotors you have listed? I see many choices and I'm not sure which one to pick... Again, great video and well explained and demonstrated.
Really depends what packages are on the truck. I'd use Tasca ford to cross reference the Motorcraft parts if you go that way.
www.tascaparts.com/v-2018-ford-f-150--xlt--2-7l-v6-gas/brakes--rear-brakes
Otherwise, I've heard good things about PowerStop brakes on trucks. I haven't tried any brands other than those two on my truck.
Great video very helpful 😁👍
Glad it was helpful!
Sincerely appreciate the video!!
Id either lock your exposure in manual mode "M", or use your phone. Your phone will fix focus issues, but you can't lock your exposure. Your exposure will be all over the place when filming something dark, like this.
Anyway, way take off the rotors? I've never done a break job but my 2019 f150 breaks just started to grind at 57k miles in Michigan (I saw your UofM shirt in a different vid).
Thanks.
Your camera tips are good. I've definitely gotten better since I've been making this video. You can see a lot of the better quality in more recent videos.
Ahh Michigan! Yea I did go to UofM but am in New England now. You're experiencing the same as I do with these trucks and rust. To get the rotors off I use a small 3-5lb sledge hammer. I've always been able to get them off my Fords with that.
Great information, clear sound and video without loud annoying music. What brand of rotors and pads have you used for front and rear?, can you put down a link?
Thanks
Hey Fatos Fanaj, the links are in the description of the video. I used all OEM Motorcraft parts when doing the replacement. I also have a video on the front brakes (I'll make sure the links are there as well). Glad to hear you liked the video. That is what I was going for. Clear sound/video and cutting the video "fat" out.
Overall not bad brother throw some anti size at the hub , get a wire wheel and clean where those slides go better
Thanks!
Really appreciate this real-time like video. I have 2018 F150 and I think mine need replacement. Was there any tool that you can suggest that would help instead of the wise grip?
Brake Caliper Compression tool is a must, linked in the description.
I would also make sure you can get the truck into and out of service mode for the emergency brake if you have the electronic one. If you aren't able to get that to work, you will need a tool to get it into service mode.
Just hit 151000 on a 2016 f150 4x4 rotor on rear going. I'm going back with oem. It lasted 150,000. I'm expressed
That’s a long time! Definitely the longest I’ve seen or heard. Nice!
I'm at 90k miles. Driver rear pad went 1st yesterday, getting into the rotor.
@coreysharp9794 that’s really good. Drove mostly highway miles?
@SmackeysGarage we've put 60k mostly highway miles. Unsure about the 1st 30k. Having major issues with vvt sensors at this point, rpm fluctuations at idle, stall at red lights. Very frustrating, warranty is gone. Been a problem with the coyote since 2011, Ford still can't fix it. The oil pressure drops to 12 psi when its "hunting" for proper air fuel mixture. We need a proper vvt delete. Replacing the sensors last only so long. The micro filters get clogged and starve the motor. It's literally killing itself for no reason.
thank ya and grab a wire wheel on your drill to clean the slider clips on easier
That’s a good tip. Thanks for sharing!
Don't know if this will help ya but just to my truck into the shop and it ended up being rear parking brakes being stuck. Ending up needed to replace the whole rear parking brake assembly on both sides, including the hardware and shoes.
Any idea what caused them to be stuck?
You didn’t apply grease to the caliper slide guides!
Thanks good man 👍
Hello question I’m a bit confused for the electric break reset, for the break turn on mantienen mode do you released the gas pedal when turn the key off or you keep it pressing on till get in break mantenimiento mode?
I believe I was holding it until it was in maintenance mode.
Here is some written out instructions.
ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/ford-electronic-parking-brake-service-mode/
@@SmackeysGarage thank you
Why didn’t you replace some bolts on the rear like you did to the front?
The slides were not stuck. You can take them apart and lubricate them if they are still moving and there is no boot damage
Are you holding the gas pedal down the entire time your setting the truck's electronic parking brake in maintance mode? If so, is that going to flood the truck with gasoline?
You do hold the accelerator pedal down during the process. It won’t flood the engine with gasoline in a EFI truck. A carburetor will pump in fuel with a full press of the accelerator. An EFI system is looking at more than just throttle position. I also believe the engine won’t do anything until the engine starts turning over.
If you have FORSCAN and an OBD link you can put the parking brake in service mode without going through these steps
Do you need to do anything with the parking break that doesn’t have the electronic parking brake? Or is just the same procedure as front pads, just compress the pistons?
I haven't worked on one of those. I'd check to see how the caliper activates using the manual parking brake. I'd guess it is a lever and is spring actuated.
You drive different than me. I had more break pads after 160k miles 😂
I really must! My front slides were frozen at 50
Great information!👍
Thanks Mitch!
I am wondering if I only want to change the brake pads only, do I still need to set the parking brake to service mode?
Yes you do. You need to push the pads back into the caliper.
Great info!
Thanks Buff!
do you do alot of towing or is 50k miles normal for brakes
I don’t do too much towing and it’s only lighter stuff like snowmobiles and jet skis. I’d say 50k miles seems to be the norm among people who have responded. My truck did have life left in the pads and rotors when I replaced them, but a slide was frozen.
What kind of pads did you use?
I used all OEM parts. So they were stock replacement.
Did you block off the front wheels or can you put it in 4wd and it wont roll when lifting the rear?
I typically block off the front wheels.
You will also notice I did only one wheel at a time, so three wheels were always in contact with the ground.
YES use wheel chocks on front tires! Otherwise the truck may roll forward when you elevate the truck rear. Ask me how I know 😂
I may have missed it, but did you pull off the caliper pins and booties and check the pins for rust and the booties for holes, if no rust clean um up, lube um and reinstall pins/booties? Or just get new pins and booties?
I typically pull them and clean them up and regrease them as you said. The rear brakes on my truck that's how it went. On the front, I had a stuck pin and had to replace them.
Rear brake pads but didn’t put E brake in maintenance mode so now I have a piston that’s stuck engaged and when I push it back in just pushes fluid out so not sure what to do next
Did you try and push it back in with a c-clamp or a tool? I would not do that if you haven't already... Without the parking brake in maintenance mode you risk damaging the e-brake motor.
In taking the parking break out of maintenance mode, you state....put your foot to the floor. What do you mean?
Read the answer here. Might provide more clarification for a 2018: www.justanswer.com/car/hlhak-2018-ford-f150-rear-brakes-electronic-parking-brake-put.html
@@SmackeysGarage thank you.
Hey, quick question about this and your rotor confirmed it. I put new pads on my rears and the new pad is much wider than the old one's were. Is this by design? Braking from interstate speeds causes bad shudder and we can see the new pads eating more of the unused rotor that the old pads did not touch.
What part numbers are you using? OEM parts?
Thank you!!!
You’re welcome!
Right on man thank you so much
No problem!
Is it not necessary to flush the brake fluid?
The brake fluid has a different service interval than the brakes themselves.
What happens if u don’t put in maintenance mode first? Can u still change it?
No. You can’t get the rear brake piston in. You won’t be able to fit newer pads
How many miles were you at where your rear brakes needed to be replaced?
2019 2.7L and rears needed to be done about 48k miles
my 2019 3.5 needed rears at 52,000mi.
26000 on my $70k POS - I will not be buying a Ford again!
2018 F150 2.7 STX 52,000. Just like you!
75k mi. on mine
Do you still need to bleed the rear brakes? These electrical parts on these newer vehicles are confusing the hell out of me. Lol
I hear ya. This was the first vehicle I've done this job on with an electric parking brake. I did not bleed the brakes because I did not disconnect the caliper or open any of the lines.
Gotcha! Thank you
What happens if you don’t put it in maintenance mode 1st?
Rip
This. Put it in maintenance mode.
I don't actually know. I'm guessing pushing the brake caliper in could get it out of calibration or it could be a safety thing.
Dad took the rotor&everything off then put it into maintenance mode. Instead of retracting into the caliper,it extended&never would retract back. Ended up just spending $220 getting new ones then putting the new parts on my truck
What if u forget to put it on brake safe mode and you get a failure sign
I’m not sure. I would try calling a dealer for some advice on this one. They may tell you to disconnect the battery for ten minutes and then check it but I have no idea.
Uhhhh.... some 2018's don't have ignition cylinders, just a Start/Stop button.
For those models, you have to get a bi-directional scan tool.
I have a 2018 with the shitty e brake and it does not go into maintenance mode.
Ah, that's annoying. I've done the brakes on another F150 that didn't go into maintenance mode and I had to use FORScan to enable it.
my 2016 f150 rear inside passenger goes to bare metal its happened twice
How many miles are on the truck?
@@SmackeysGaragemine did the same with my 19’. 45k on the truck.
Are the slides free moving? That's about the same mileage when mine had to be replaced.
The vise grips make me sad :( lol
Haha. I didn't feel like grinding my new Tekton open end to get it to fit.
I just recently find out why the gold brake pads have a lifetime warranty😅
Because you have to replace them so often? 😇
NO LUBE???
The slide plates and back of the pads need lube!
Lube was used in the video.
Less than 30k and rotors are shot! The pads are like new. Rotors must have been made in Mexico.
That’s pretty quick. We’re they warped?
@@SmackeysGarage front was not rear.
replacing my rears at 32k. Pads wore uneven, inside of rear rotors are a rusted nightmare with minimal contact patch on rotor. Fronts look good. Not replacing them.
This does not work with keyless ignition
You might have to use Forscan to put it in service mode then.
Wheres the grease boy!
I might not have called it out, but there is definitely some on there! Usually use CRC's brake caliper grease.
I have 54000 on my f150 and my back are not even close to yours.. You must be a hard braker....
Towing and a lot of traffic I guess
I tow a 3000 lb boat in the summer but no city driving though. I guess thats a big help.
@@SmackeysGarage
That would make sense. I’m in two hours of stop and go traffic a few days a week
😢jacking up the truck using the rear gear pumpkin DUMB
Explain to me how jacking a truck up from the center of the rear axle (which is designed to support the weight of the rear plus a safety limit over maximum payload capacity is bad for the truck?
@@nickserafine6345
The pumpkin doesnt hold any weigh the axle were the rear leaf spring holds the weigh not the pumpkin
@@garypic4083 I know, but I would argue that the casting is strong enough to support the weight of the rear end until jack stand can be placed underneath.
@@nickserafine6345
Well good luck, remember all those clowns on TV aren't paying any money out of thier pockets
@@garypic4083 I have no idea what that you mean by this comment. clowns on TV? We never had any problems with it at my shop.
Im trying this maintenance mode right now and I can’t get it to release……maybe I’m retarded
Can’t get it into or out of maintenance mode?
I have a 2016 w/electric parking brakes and your trick didn't work. Did I do something incorrectly?
Not sure. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with that step. If you download FORScan and get an OBDLink cable, you can enter in service mode that way as well.
@@SmackeysGarage I figured it out, I was doing it incorrectly. Thank you for replying, brother.
@@RagnarDanneskjold-Pirateanytime! Thanks for watching