It also helps to have a dark instrument cluster before turning the key to switch on/off the maintenance mode. I had trouble getting maintenance mode off because I didn’t do the procedure correctly the first time, it wouldn’t work until I waited and let the dash go dark before attempting again.
Side note, not sure if anyone else mentioned this but you CAN turn the key off once it's in maintenance mode, you can take the key out and lock the doors if you want, it will remind you it's still in service mode when you turn the key back on. Just FYI
Watching this while sitting at a ford dealership for a recall. Just watched some pensioner get quoted 1700 for full brake job and break line flush. I imagine many people feel pressured to get a new vehical before warranty expires simply to avoid maintenance costs. Keeps people consuming and it aint right. Thank you for your content, helps people save a buck and get off the consumer hamster wheel.
For anyone coming here because you screwed up and forgot to put the parking brake in maintenance mode, then tried to put it in maintenance mode and accidentally fully extended the caliper pistons you have come to the right place. Do not panic. I screwed up and fixed it myself. To fix all you need to do is follow these steps: 1. carefully remove the piston seal from the caliper. 2. remove piston and seal from caliper and place in a clean area. 3. Under the piston there is an ebrake screw and 'spindle'. Screw it all the way down to the base manually with your fingers. You will lose brake fluid so place a rag underneath the caliper. 4. Clean with brake cleaner, then coat with new brake fluid, and Place the piston and seal carefully back on the caliper/spindle. firmly push the seal back onto the caliper. If you tear the seal like I did the replacement part is Raybestos WK3495 5. Compress the piston all the way down with a C clamp 6. Reinstall the caliper 7. bleed brakes 8. run the parking brake on/off a few times, drive around the block, run parking brake a couple times again and the parking brake malfunction error should go away on its own.
wish i would have seen this video and comment b4 i replaced the caliper. now i have to take the caliper back off so that i can reset it and then do the maintenance mode thing so i can do the other side
Just got home from dealer with caliper.. with I saw this before I got it…. Ripped the seal no one has rebuild kit near by. My guy. best comment of the year thank you very much
Like so many people said: thank you very much for the video! The electronic e-brake is definitely a new thing to me. There’s absolutely no way that I would have been able to figure that out without guidance
Great video, Shop wanted to charge $900 for rear brakes, bought the parts for $328 and followed your steps, worked perfectly. From putting down my coffee to cleaning off my tools and putting them away, 1.5 hours. An hour of my time is worth less than $550, so this was well worth it. I'll put some of that towards a ribeye tonight! Thanks
The pads alone are 70 to 90 bucks oem direct fit Motorcraft. I got the same truck just did my rear brakes yesterday something just isn't right with that
@aaron Shorter yes sir that's not right for them to charge that. I work at a Ford dealership been there 10 years and never heard of it being that high. 145 for labor plus parts should never charge higher than that. What state are you in? If you don't mind me asking?
Great vid. 5am here and getting ready to work on the F150. Last electronic parking brake I worked on was a Subaru and it was a terrible set up. Was thinking the F150 would be bad too, but your vid proves me wrong. Thanks
Helped a ton. Thanks. What one thing that I didn't see was replacing the caliper which is what I had to do. Took a little bit of researching but I was able to get it done after finding the part with the electronic braking system but this video did help a ton.
This worked on our 2018 F150. Took the pads off and the piston wouldn't retract, but putting it in maintenance mode fixed it immediately. Just make sure to hold the parking brake button down through the whole process. 👍
Also since the bolt is smaller the torque spec is 27 ft lbs rather than the 35 ft lbs mentioned in the video. Have a 2019 F150 as well and this video made it cake to change the brakes.
Thought my caliper was seized.. Did not know about "maintenance mode." Gonna try again tomorrow and see if I can return these new calipers, thanks! Awesome vid!
Great video. My old friend asked me to do this job for him. I told him no. Now I can call him and tell him yes. I worked as a mech. for many years and was worried about the computer.
Thank you for sharing this! My scanner doesn't support this function though it claimed to when I bought it. And thx also to Ford for the foresight. Sure beats Audi and Mercedes.
@@abelmontesdeoca6774 WTH Abel! What a dang crook. Bought Pad and rotors turned at O'reileys for $90. So easy to do, I dont understand why someone would ever pay $800 or even $400.
Changed mine at 55,000 as the state inspection said they were boarder line. Could maybe get another 10k but they were pretty worn. Fronts still have over half left. Thanks for the video. IOU an adult beverage of your choice.
Thank you so much The only thing I do differently is open the bleeder valve as I push the caliper piston. This allows any sediment to push out of the bleeder and not back into the master cylinder . I used a partially filled with brake fluid bottle and a hose connected to the bleeder valve and then submerged into the fluid .
Just take the top off the master cylinder. That'll do it. Makes room for the brake fluid back to master cylinder. Just make sure no dust will get in. I just move the cap slightly to the side when it loosened and cover it all with a clean rag. If you topped up your brake fluid before that now it might be over the "max". Just adjust it. Cheers
I got a 2018 expedition, not a F150, but they are the same engine and maybe the same brake system, I need to replace the brake pads soon, hope that your steps can help me to do it next year
Great video I was looking for scanner, rear brake pads wear out faster especially if your using cruise control it slows you down especially going down hill
Great! Thank you so much for this video! Would of struggled with the parking brake for sure! Mine is a 2019 should be the same... I will find out when i do it tomorrow. 😎
Thank you for the help, just did the rear pads and rotors . Thank goodness for the guidance with “park brake maintainance “ made, life saver for sure. Thanks again and take care 👍🇨🇦
The rears can wear out faster on these trucks because they have the hill climb assist witch basically holds the e brake until you hit the gas. In my area of upstate new York this feature is honestly one of my favorites because there is alot of steep hills I start on.
Very helpful... But during the 'take it out of maintenance mode' section @1:35 or so you stop at 'turn the engine off.' I had to watch your shorter vid specific to just 'in and out of M mode' to realize why it wasn't coming out. Should be... 'Ignition on, hold button up (PB on), press and hold gas peddle, turn ignition off - then back on. Release all.' I just did the one side tonight. 4 hrs... Why 4 hrs you might ask? Both rear tire/rims were rusted on. After a solid hour of beating on them with a mallet and stuff... UA-cam to the rescue. Loosened all the lugs to 1/2 a turn freer than finger tight. Drove a figure 8 at the church parking lot down the block. Free and easy when I got back. Then, I had released the PB but not known about maintenance mode for caliper retraction. Once I hit a reasonable force with my C-clamp I knew something was wrong so again... UA-cam to the rescue. And that you very much. Luckily I can wait till tomorrow morning to finish the job.
Great video Aaron. one question. i watched another video showing that it is necessary to twist the caliper piston before compressing it in. is that not the case? an old school caliper compression tool is all that is needed?
I have the same issue. The dealer started telling me that my rear pads were wearing faster than my front. Now, at 48k my rear pads need to be replaced. My front pads are close but the rear are wearing faster than the front. They actually did a check of my calipers on the rear before my warranty ran out to make sure there wasn't an issue so I could get them replaced but claimed that they didn't find anything wrong. Still curious to me.
I'm in Canada, and mine were done at 40k, km. I think it's a corrosion issue here in the rust belt, the rears never get hot enough to burn off salt and moisture, always rusting. I also noticed the stock pads were an extremely tight fit on the stainless clips, had to tap them out of the caliper. The new Raybestos pads were almost as tight so I filed a little more clearance into the ears of the pads. Now they float easily like they're supposed to.
Great video. It helped me a lot. Only thing different is that my 2015 had 13 mm bolts holding the caliper on. Thank you for your time to put this together.
Well dont use grease on silde pins it will make those rubber insert sleeves on the pin swell and seize. There is a specific lube just for the pins called sil-glyde just for the pins and is avalibe at any parts store.
I was not able to compress the caliper on my 2016 F150 using a large C clamp like I've always done on older trucks. Went to a parts store and they said there's a tool to screw the piston back inside using a rachet and extension on this special tool I rented but haven't used yet. The piston has three notches on it. Now I see you just used a tool to compress it. I'm not having luck compressing it, so do I use a tool to screw the piston inside? I gotta do the brake job this weekend.Please help in this conundrum. THUMBS UP!!!
Love how your rotor pops loose with a couple licks of the hammer. I've never been able to break mine loose without a bottle jack between the leaf spring and rotor. I suspect the mag chloride used here causes corrosion bonding.
Great video and info. I am going to be buying a used 2018 f150 soon and was a little worried about servicing thees new brake systems. Nice to see ford has a way for people to do this with out having an expensive scan tool.
Great vid very detailed ,I was just curious about electronic brake ,my truck needed rear rotors I found a pair from market place at 25 dollars 💵 drilled and sloted not my type but who cares nobody beats 25 dollars rotors lol ,this guy bought them but didn't work for him bc his is electronic ,my is 2013 also will soon be replacing my friends his are electronic I learned alot from this vid thanks
what's up friend. I had a problem with one of those same fords in an oversight the pistons came out, you can put them back in their place but now I get a message that says bad parking brake. I thank you in advance for your help, greetings from Honduras
Very good and precise video! Did you replace the pad hardware as it states? Why did you replace the rotors? They looked good and you could have turned them for cheap. Would have like to see the pad install into the clips-hardware. Got my pads and hardware yesterday at O'reily's. What is the difference in E-brake pads opposed to standard park brake pads.?? Thank you.
I should have watched this before doing my break job. Did not go to maintenance mode so the cylinder would not compress. Took the drive off and screwed it in the put the drive back on. No I have a limit switch warning light for my emergency breaks that I can’t clear.
Aaron, Excellent video! The only correction is you don't want ever use a petroleum base grease or lubricant on rubber brake parts, especially slide pins. Petroleum base products including anti-seize will make the rubber swell up & cause the slide pin to drag or size up. You only want to use silicone grease.
Hey guy, everything you said was right except the lube you put on the slides. Can't use wheel bearing grease, it can't take the heat of brakes. Folks should use brake lube. Sil glyde is the best, but the black dedicated brake grease works as well.
Good vid, thanks! One thing thou. They're 13mm bolts - not 14 - that hold the caliper. The rust makes it hard for the 13 to fit but with the 14 you might strip the bolt. Just use a wire brush to clean it and the 13 will be on it solid. Cheers
thank you the powerford place here in abq nm wants to charge me 980.00 plus tax to do my front and rear brakes! thank you. now i can do if for half of that price
Great video but you really need to use a quality high temp silicone/graphite lube for your guide pins not just any type of grease. regular grease melts out.
Lotta help thank you definitely hold the parking brake and gas through the whole process of turning the maintenance mode on or off
Thank you!
I have a key fob lariat 2018 2.7 and it didn't work had to use the computer attachment I may or may not have done it correctly
It also helps to have a dark instrument cluster before turning the key to switch on/off the maintenance mode. I had trouble getting maintenance mode off because I didn’t do the procedure correctly the first time, it wouldn’t work until I waited and let the dash go dark before attempting again.
@@AaronHinesAuto push the gas pedal or brake pedal?
No they're because he used the wrong tool to compress the piston
Side note, not sure if anyone else mentioned this but you CAN turn the key off once it's in maintenance mode, you can take the key out and lock the doors if you want, it will remind you it's still in service mode when you turn the key back on. Just FYI
What is maintenance mode and why you can’t just take the parking brake off and change the pads and rotors?
@@kennethdefreitas3120 Its for truck with the electronic parking brake
Thanks man, I like your video because you don’t spend 30 minutes telling what everything is. Right to the point and got me out of the 100 degree temp!
You are the only video that talked about putting the brakes in service mode, you literally saved our day. THANK YOU SO MUCH
Glad to hear! Thank you!
The 99 down votes are service departments that couldn't get the money to do the brakes. Thanks a ton this helped tremendously!
No kidding, on a whim I decided to let my dealership do my brakes (pads rotors all around) $1400...never again lol
Watching this while sitting at a ford dealership for a recall. Just watched some pensioner get quoted 1700 for full brake job and break line flush. I imagine many people feel pressured to get a new vehical before warranty expires simply to avoid maintenance costs. Keeps people consuming and it aint right. Thank you for your content, helps people save a buck and get off the consumer hamster wheel.
My quite was $500 for each set of brakes. On 2 cars. They would cut me a small deal if I did all 4 sets at once. Lol a-holes.
For anyone coming here because you screwed up and forgot to put the parking brake in maintenance mode, then tried to put it in maintenance mode and accidentally fully extended the caliper pistons you have come to the right place. Do not panic. I screwed up and fixed it myself. To fix all you need to do is follow these steps: 1. carefully remove the piston seal from the caliper. 2. remove piston and seal from caliper and place in a clean area. 3. Under the piston there is an ebrake screw and 'spindle'. Screw it all the way down to the base manually with your fingers. You will lose brake fluid so place a rag underneath the caliper. 4. Clean with brake cleaner, then coat with new brake fluid, and Place the piston and seal carefully back on the caliper/spindle. firmly push the seal back onto the caliper. If you tear the seal like I did the replacement part is Raybestos WK3495 5. Compress the piston all the way down with a C clamp 6. Reinstall the caliper 7. bleed brakes 8. run the parking brake on/off a few times, drive around the block, run parking brake a couple times again and the parking brake malfunction error should go away on its own.
wish i would have seen this video and comment b4 i replaced the caliper. now i have to take the caliper back off so that i can reset it and then do the maintenance mode thing so i can do the other side
Just got home from dealer with caliper.. with I saw this before I got it…. Ripped the seal no one has rebuild kit near by. My guy. best comment of the year thank you very much
Did you still put the breaks in service mode after you messed up or just change the calipers?
65000 miles need changed says inspection guy. But they need change
Make a video lol
Like so many people said: thank you very much for the video! The electronic e-brake is definitely a new thing to me. There’s absolutely no way that I would have been able to figure that out without guidance
Thanks for this. Had no idea about the maintenance mode and went to Orielly to get the tool. All four wheels done in a driveway in 90 mins.
Great video, Shop wanted to charge $900 for rear brakes, bought the parts for $328 and followed your steps, worked perfectly. From putting down my coffee to cleaning off my tools and putting them away, 1.5 hours. An hour of my time is worth less than $550, so this was well worth it. I'll put some of that towards a ribeye tonight! Thanks
Shops get brake pads for half the price you do as well, and if you paid 330 dollars for rear brakes you got scammed
Wait what!! 900$ man they are scamming forsure I work at a dealership our rear brake job is 145.00 plus parts and tax. They need to be reported
The pads alone are 70 to 90 bucks oem direct fit Motorcraft. I got the same truck just did my rear brakes yesterday something just isn't right with that
@@coreylehr1883 I was quoted $650 on rears only at dealership.
@aaron Shorter yes sir that's not right for them to charge that. I work at a Ford dealership been there 10 years and never heard of it being that high. 145 for labor plus parts should never charge higher than that. What state are you in? If you don't mind me asking?
The only one online willing to share the frigging elect brake maintenance BS procedure... Thank you a million times for this.
One of the best videos I’ve seen. To the point and clear instructions. No rambling to get your ten minutes in. Love it man thank you very helpful
You saved my day with the service mode tip. I felt defeated with that piston not going back in. I was determined to save $450.
Thank you, been doing my own brakes for over 47 yrs, this made it easier!
Great vid. 5am here and getting ready to work on the F150. Last electronic parking brake I worked on was a Subaru and it was a terrible set up. Was thinking the F150 would be bad too, but your vid proves me wrong. Thanks
Hey Aaron, just wanted to say thanks! Replaced the rear pads on my 2018 today and your video came in clutch on the maintenance mode procedure. 🤙
Helped a ton. Thanks. What one thing that I didn't see was replacing the caliper which is what I had to do. Took a little bit of researching but I was able to get it done after finding the part with the electronic braking system but this video did help a ton.
your videos made it super easy to do the brakes on my f-150 from start to finish, thanks a lot man
Thanks! Glad to hear
This worked on our 2018 F150. Took the pads off and the piston wouldn't retract, but putting it in maintenance mode fixed it immediately. Just make sure to hold the parking brake button down through the whole process. 👍
Thank you for posting this video. It’s a big help.
On my 2019 it was a 13mm not a 14mm (for anyone who comes across this with a 2019) but very great video worked great for me , thank you
Also since the bolt is smaller the torque spec is 27 ft lbs rather than the 35 ft lbs mentioned in the video. Have a 2019 F150 as well and this video made it cake to change the brakes.
I have a 2018 f150 that had stuck rear rotors, this is the video that saved my day. Thanks bud
Worked great!!!! Saved me lots of money! Thank you!!
Great job thanks for showing us the right way you talked to us clear and not like we were mechanics good job
Thank god you showed how to get it into service mode saved me so much time and Probadly a caliper. I miss working on old chevys
2nd time needing this video at work. thank you for the straight forward procedure.
Excellent summary. Best I've seen.
Thanks so much for this video, very nice of you sharing it! Good Job!
You the man, thank you, short and to the point.
Thanks for your help and the time you saved me!
Thought my caliper was seized.. Did not know about "maintenance mode." Gonna try again tomorrow and see if I can return these new calipers, thanks! Awesome vid!
Excellent demonstration on how to.
Thanks for your videos, totally helpful.
Excellent job with this video well explained for dummies like me thank you
Great video. My old friend asked me to do this job for him. I told him no. Now I can call him and tell him yes. I worked as a mech. for many years and was worried about the computer.
Thanks for the tip on the maintenance mode. I told my local shop about this and they were unaware of that. Maybe time to find a new shop? LOL
Thank you for sharing this! My scanner doesn't support this function though it claimed to when I bought it. And thx also to Ford for the foresight. Sure beats Audi and Mercedes.
Thank you so much for this video!!! You literally saved my life with it!!!
I knew it had to be something goofy like this preventing compression. Thank you!
I wish you were around when I was doing my brakes. I had a hell of a time.
Ya first time I did these brakes I was confused on how to release the caliper
Thanks for the excellent video! Got mine done in around 30 minutes. Beats the hell out of a $200 break shop job!
My shop wanted $350 for the rears lol. So easy, even a cave man can do this.
@@robertclymer6948 $800 plus is what the tire guy offered, I laughed.
@@abelmontesdeoca6774 WTH Abel! What a dang crook. Bought Pad and rotors turned at O'reileys for $90. So easy to do, I dont understand why someone would ever pay $800 or even $400.
Omg buddy thank you. Gladly appreciate it. !!
I bet bud:)
thank you so much, i did my brakes in no time
Your video was a big help. Thank you
Changed mine at 55,000 as the state inspection said they were boarder line. Could maybe get another 10k but they were pretty worn. Fronts still have over half left. Thanks for the video. IOU an adult beverage of your choice.
Thank you so much for such awesome instructions!
Great help thank you. My 2015 was 13mm caliper bolts, and hold the ebrake button and throttle through the procedures, and was golden.
2018 is 13mm caliper bolts too
Thanks my friend you help me a lot with this tips 👍
Best video for this issue by far. Saved me a headache!
Thanks for the info , would never have thought of that of the electric e brake. Save me from dealing with dealership 👍.
Thank you so much
The only thing I do differently is open the bleeder valve as I push the caliper piston. This allows any sediment to push out of the bleeder and not back into the master cylinder . I used a partially filled with brake fluid bottle and a hose connected to the bleeder valve and then submerged into the fluid .
Just take the top off the master cylinder. That'll do it. Makes room for the brake fluid back to master cylinder. Just make sure no dust will get in. I just move the cap slightly to the side when it loosened and cover it all with a clean rag. If you topped up your brake fluid before that now it might be over the "max". Just adjust it. Cheers
Can i do this inside of putting a tube over the bleeder screw? Any tips help ? Thanks
Awesome help with the electronic brake system!!!!!!!
Great video. Thanks for the info. Saved lots of headaches and $$$!!!
I got a 2018 expedition, not a F150, but they are the same engine and maybe the same brake system, I need to replace the brake pads soon, hope that your steps can help me to do it next year
Thank you for posting this!
Great video I was looking for scanner, rear brake pads wear out faster especially if your using cruise control it slows you down especially going down hill
Didn’t know that! Thanks!
Great! Thank you so much for this video! Would of struggled with the parking brake for sure! Mine is a 2019 should be the same... I will find out when i do it tomorrow. 😎
Very professional and good details. Thanks.
That was a big help. Thank you
Perfect...I'm doing the rear brakes on my 2015 F-150 on Saturday.....
Thank you for the help, just did the rear pads and rotors .
Thank goodness for the guidance with “park brake maintainance “ made, life saver for sure.
Thanks again and take care
👍🇨🇦
What if you turned the piston in and didn't put the car in maintenance mode
Much appreciated for this video just did mines 🤙🏽
Excellent video, very well explained. Thanks!
The rears can wear out faster on these trucks because they have the hill climb assist witch basically holds the e brake until you hit the gas. In my area of upstate new York this feature is honestly one of my favorites because there is alot of steep hills I start on.
Very helpful... But during the 'take it out of maintenance mode' section @1:35 or so you stop at 'turn the engine off.' I had to watch your shorter vid specific to just 'in and out of M mode' to realize why it wasn't coming out.
Should be... 'Ignition on, hold button up (PB on), press and hold gas peddle, turn ignition off - then back on. Release all.'
I just did the one side tonight. 4 hrs... Why 4 hrs you might ask?
Both rear tire/rims were rusted on. After a solid hour of beating on them with a mallet and stuff... UA-cam to the rescue.
Loosened all the lugs to 1/2 a turn freer than finger tight. Drove a figure 8 at the church parking lot down the block. Free and easy when I got back.
Then, I had released the PB but not known about maintenance mode for caliper retraction. Once I hit a reasonable force with my C-clamp I knew something was wrong so again... UA-cam to the rescue. And that you very much.
Luckily I can wait till tomorrow morning to finish the job.
Great video Aaron. one question. i watched another video showing that it is necessary to twist the caliper piston before compressing it in. is that not the case? an old school caliper compression tool is all that is needed?
Great video, This will help me
Awesome and easy helpful video
Great video simply great for everyday guy
went to dealer today. I have a 2017 F150 2wd with 23,500 mi and they said my rears are at 1mm pad left.
Crazy !!!
Thanks for posting the video
U bet bud. It is crazy, never have I seen a vehicle wear the rear brakes before the front! Glad the video helped you out!
Derek B. Miller I have the exact same vehicle with the same problem at 25k miles. There is def something wrong with this model!!! 😫
I have the same issue. The dealer started telling me that my rear pads were wearing faster than my front. Now, at 48k my rear pads need to be replaced. My front pads are close but the rear are wearing faster than the front. They actually did a check of my calipers on the rear before my warranty ran out to make sure there wasn't an issue so I could get them replaced but claimed that they didn't find anything wrong. Still curious to me.
I’m up here in Canada. 2017 f150 with 19,000 km. (About 12,000 miles) back brakes and rotors needed replacement.
I'm in Canada, and mine were done at 40k, km. I think it's a corrosion issue here in the rust belt, the rears never get hot enough to burn off salt and moisture, always rusting. I also noticed the stock pads were an extremely tight fit on the stainless clips, had to tap them out of the caliper. The new Raybestos pads were almost as tight so I filed a little more clearance into the ears of the pads. Now they float easily like they're supposed to.
WOW you are a great help Thanks!!!
Great Information Thanks for posting!!!!
Great video. It helped me a lot. Only thing different is that my 2015 had 13 mm bolts holding the caliper on. Thank you for your time to put this together.
same here on my 19
Well dont use grease on silde pins it will make those rubber insert sleeves on the pin swell and seize. There is a specific lube just for the pins called sil-glyde just for the pins and is avalibe at any parts store.
Amazing! Thanks man !
My man!!!!! You just save me $1200. Thank you so much.!!!
I was not able to compress the caliper on my 2016 F150 using a large C clamp like I've always done on older trucks. Went to a parts store and they said there's a tool to screw the piston back inside using a rachet and extension on this special tool I rented but haven't used yet. The piston has three notches on it. Now I see you just used a tool to compress it. I'm not having luck compressing it, so do I use a tool to screw the piston inside? I gotta do the brake job this weekend.Please help in this conundrum. THUMBS UP!!!
Love how your rotor pops loose with a couple licks of the hammer. I've never been able to break mine loose without a bottle jack between the leaf spring and rotor. I suspect the mag chloride used here causes corrosion bonding.
Thanks your video really helped.
damn i guess i have a manual parking break i dont have that little switch very informative video i have a 2015
Great video and info. I am going to be buying a used 2018 f150 soon and was a little worried about servicing thees new brake systems. Nice to see ford has a way for people to do this with out having an expensive scan tool.
Great vid very detailed ,I was just curious about electronic brake ,my truck needed rear rotors I found a pair from market place at 25 dollars 💵 drilled and sloted not my type but who cares nobody beats 25 dollars rotors lol ,this guy bought them but didn't work for him bc his is electronic ,my is 2013 also will soon be replacing my friends his are electronic I learned alot from this vid thanks
what's up friend. I had a problem with one of those same fords in an oversight the pistons came out, you can put them back in their place but now I get a message that says bad parking brake. I thank you in advance for your help, greetings from Honduras
Very Good Video Thanks
Very good and precise video! Did you replace the pad hardware as it states? Why did you replace the rotors? They looked good and you could have turned them for cheap. Would have like to see the pad install into the clips-hardware. Got my pads and hardware yesterday at O'reily's. What is the difference in E-brake pads opposed to standard park brake pads.??
Thank you.
I should have watched this before doing my break job. Did not go to maintenance mode so the cylinder would not compress. Took the drive off and screwed it in the put the drive back on. No I have a limit switch warning light for my emergency breaks that I can’t clear.
Very helpful Thank you.
Aaron, Excellent video! The only correction is you don't want ever use a petroleum base grease or lubricant on rubber brake parts, especially slide pins. Petroleum base products including anti-seize will make the rubber swell up & cause the slide pin to drag or size up. You only want to use silicone grease.
Hey guy, everything you said was right except the lube you put on the slides. Can't use wheel bearing grease, it can't take the heat of brakes. Folks should use brake lube. Sil glyde is the best, but the black dedicated brake grease works as well.
Thanks for video!
Thankyou man this helps
Awesome 👏🏼 thanks
Great job.. not clear if the key is left on while you work on brakes after you place in maintenance mode.
Good vid, thanks! One thing thou. They're 13mm bolts - not 14 - that hold the caliper. The rust makes it hard for the 13 to fit but with the 14 you might strip the bolt. Just use a wire brush to clean it and the 13 will be on it solid. Cheers
If you’re replacing the calipers as well would you still put the emergency brake into service mode? Or does it not matter?
Great job done
Is it possible to do brake system maintenance mode by scanner ?
Thanks
Thank you!!
thank you the powerford place here in abq nm wants to charge me 980.00 plus tax to do my front and rear brakes! thank you. now i can do if for half of that price
Great video but you really need to use a quality high temp silicone/graphite lube for your guide pins not just any type of grease. regular grease melts out.
Harry Palmer yup silicone paste not bearing grease as stated in vid
Thanks very helpful