How to change your transmission oil and mechatronics seals on a ZF 6 speed - BMW- Detailed
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- Опубліковано 13 чер 2018
- How to change your transmission oil and mechatronics seals on a ZF 6 speed - BMW- Detailed
This is a complete DIY showing that this repair can be done at your home with regular tools.
Calibration shown here: • How to reset and calib...
For an E65 and E66 your series of videos are my absolute favorite.
Fantastic work. Very clearly shown. Thank you!
Very good description of the steps to remove and replace. Thanks
Thank you for this. I watch it every time I do this for my F02.
I just finished it. That was a dirty but rewarding job. Million thanks for your videos👍
Thanks great BMW trans rebuilt video...... Did it myself..... Really is easy with your help. Stay organized.... Do things in steps.... Parts come off easily,... and easy sequence to install new parts readily available on line😁
Sir, you are a great Teacher making the servicing of this ZF a breeze. I have leak around Mech Sleeve (730Li 2005 Left hand drive car). Im not a mechanic but do these type of works during my free time. My last DIY transmission repair was on 2000 VW jetta 2.0 replaced the wiring that connects to the solenoids (inside) to the TCM/ECU (outside). Again your work was precisely clear. From my humble experience, ZF transmissions are great with the only prob being the leaks. Else they dont break (physically) like the ones on Ford and GMs do.
thanks for your comment
Very nicely done and thank you for sharing. I've done this job myself a few times and I use an electric battery operated pump which makes the job a little simpler. Watching you do it with the bottles only, I give you much respect!
appreciate the comment.
@@ecologicaltime bro get you self a LITTLE pump from Halfords 25 POUNDS cool
the terminator is now doing car work tutorials
Too old to run away from the t1000. Gotta make that chedda still
Arnold is from Austria not South Africa lmao
Foul 🤣🤣
Wow.. this guy confuses Austrian with African 🤣🤣
@@jonny_exotic2575 I thought he was French LOL
Good Job. A tip for removing the tube seals is to insert a pair of circlip pliers and rotate the seals back and forth as you pull them out.
I THANK GOD FORE PEOPLE LIKE YOU !!!
Great information. Thank you!
This is the best video I’ve found to do this on my 730d. Thanks!
Awesome video. Thank you!
Awesome!! Going to do this job on two BMW e60s once it’s not too cold in Chicago. Thanks for the tips.
Do can you do this job on my e65? I live in Chicago I just need it done I feel my transmission slipping a bit so ya.
Thank you. Excellent video.
Cheers. I couldn't get sleeve plug clip in, your vid helped!!
Great diligence , Thanks.
Genius, I'm going to be working on it this weekend
Really cool video MAN i got to do my x6 td SAME GEARBOX 3.0 engines
12:20 a nice tip for next time (or anyone else): Take the pliers, get a grip straight on and then twist the pliers. It will make the rubber collapse inside of itself which will reduce the resistance of the material to come out. Or you can use some angled hooks to get it out (or support the pliers so you don't have all the force on one spot).
Around 32:00 you are racing against the clock... or the temperature to be more precise :) next time get yourself a garden spray pump. Depending on what you buy they hold around 5-9 liters of any fluid you put in and when you pump pressure in it then all you have to do is to press the lever on the other end and let physics do the filling for you. Usually those things have a rubber hose with a plastic handle that ends with a brass tube. Cut off the hose so you have only as much as you need to maximise pressure and thus oilflow and cut off the brass tube so you have only as much as you need. Additionally bend the brass tube so it becomes a hook and you can leave it hooked in the filler hole. If you want to take it further you can also fix your release handle with a rubber band and it will do the filling completely without you. All excessive oil that will leak out eventually will be catched by your clean plastic container under the filler hole. With this setup you can wait for it to overfill and then just get in the car and go trough all your gears while your gearbox is constantly being fed with oil :) bonus tip: Use a mirror to see under the car while you are inside OR connect any WiFi camera to your phone, tablet or whatever and point the camera towards the filler hole so you can see live what is happening.
A point to the gearbox filling itself: ZF has 3 methods of filling the 5HP/6HP transmission. You have to turn AC and any other loads off In all versions (not on).
*Version A* wants you to go to from P to R and then D and then to 3rd gear while waiting 3 seconds in each gear.
*Version B* wants you to do the same except to go up to the 4th gear.
*Version C* wants you to go from P to R and to D AND to shift all gears while waiting 10 seconds in each gear while keeping RPM at 2000.
Version C is used to fill the torque converter. However the original manual DOES NOT describe A and B precisely. If you have to skip straight to 3rd or 4th gear and then wait 3 seconds (which the manual somehow implies) OR wait 3 seconds in all gears (which I usually do). The manual also DOES NOT describe if you should stay on the brake the whole time (which I usually do) or let the wheels spin (which the manual somehow lets you think that way). All this and more can be found in the "ZF Originalanleitung - Olwechsel ENG" pdf. Google the name I put in brackets and it should point you to a site for download :) In my long time experience it is not really bad if you have a little bit more oil. Not like a liter but more like about 50ml or less. So if you reach 40 degrees and you just don't want to repeat all of that then push in some extra oil and close the fill hole as lightning fast as you can. This tip is only usefull for people that have done it several times and they can tell by feel they've done right. If this applies to anyone who is about to do this the 1st time and/or you are not comfortable with stepping "halfway over the line" then stop and let the whole thing cool down and repeat it later. You don't need to hit the threads instantly it is enough when you can plug the hole with the screw. At this point you can calm down and take your time to hit the threads correctly.
BONUS: If you are living in a place where you have summer and winter then you might consider doing this job on a cold day. It will give you more time to do this job as the outside temerature will keep everything colder for a longer time. I wouldn't do it as I hate working in winter and cold weather generally but it is an option to consider :) Also having a regular fan pointed to your workspace might help a bit to get rid of the exhaust heat. Not much but if you are sensitive to this kind of heat a fan may help you.
BTW Mercedes used to have TWO dipsticks in the engine bay. One for the engine oil and one for the transmission oil. Back in the days you could fill the gearbox with room temperature oil with a funnel standing on your feet and the dipstick would instantly tell you if you are okay or not. What a pity this idea got lost over the years....
Hope this helped anyone :)
Great job!
Excellent video thankyou
Great job with this video! I just completed this job myself. A shop wanted $600 just to change the fluid and filter! To those who view this, the mechatronic sleeve came out easily using a large flat-head screwdriver to twist it out. But it was a bear to replace! My advice? First, make sure you have the tab lined up before attempting to push the sleeve in. You don't want to risk bending or at worse, breaking a pin in the mechatronics. Unlike what you see in other videos online, YOU WILL NOT be able to push the sleeve in by hand or with a screwdriver. Use a long bar, (I used a breaker bar), to leverage that sleeve back in. You will not be able to lock it in place unless it is fully seated. And use vaseline to lube the sleeve o-rings. ATF is not thick enough. Finally, use a pump to replace the fluid. It will be easier than trying to use the short tube on the bottles around the hot exhaust. Sorry guy. I am not the beast you are with the bottles.
thanks for the tips, not sure why you needed the breaker bar though for the sleeve.
I had quite a hard time with the sleeve too. Eventually I swopped out the o-rings from the new one onto the old one and re-used the old sleeve.
@@MoNag786 New sleeve was too large diameter.
Possible reasons:
1. Different plastic.
2. Different humidity or temp. during molding.
3. Who knows? And those engineers get paid too much to tell us.
4. O-rings on the Space Shuttle.
Great work...
Great video, I used a little hook awl to pull out the 4 little rubber hoses. And mine weren't even flush,, they were shorter than the surface
This helped me a lot to do this on my Genesis with the same transmission.
I made a 12v pump with a battery lead and a momentary on/off switch. 👍
i was stressed the hole time!!! but good work
Thanks for the video. One of the best tutorials. I completed this job this weekend, with all the seals and solenoids. Car has 103k miles and driving great after the change. I didn’t reset adaptations.
recommended not required. give it couple days for the trans to relearn on it own again.
Just did my x6 its a bit harder got a gear box mount,,cradle to take of and support the gearbox and it's a big heavy gearbox and had difficulties with electronic harness sleeve but sorted it in the end
Well done bro
Thank you so very kindly for the video but there are no links in the info area.
@ecologicaltime great detailed Vid, however my tech level is about 4 out of 10 so not ready to tackle this , any advice on where i can get this job done in JHB
Excellent video! Can you share where you got your mechatronics seals AND where you got the paper you were holding that appears to be a ZF procedure manual or something.
Is this the same procedure for an N54 535?
1st I want to say great tutorial it was very in-depth and straight to the point. I have run into an issue when putting everything back together, recently I did a solenoid replacement to my mechatronics valve body. After I installed it and filled fluid, I tried to turn the car on to do the fluid cycle sequence and my neutral light was blinking and key went unresponsive/not recognized. I jumped the car, it started but got an error message saying Transmission Position P May not be Possible and could not go into reverse only Drive and Neutral. The car revs but does not move when I try driving it neither does the neutral pull release. I do not know what I have done wrong when installing everything back. the car shows close to 14v of operating voltage and N flashing on dash when turned on. when I scan the car for codes on INPA I get [ CF07 Communication Error:PT-CAN , 507B EGS: Parking ger sensors implausible ]
Before starting fill until a few drops come out. Put in plug but still loose. Start engine until 40 degrees. Remove plug and fill rest until slight drip comes out. Run through the gears slowly. Turn off. Turn on again and check plug stream at 40 degrees. Done. Same on Land Rover. Just don't overfill as the oil will expand as temp rises under driving conditions.
At 8:28 - how do you release that emergency brake? It is just shown when its pointing directly down.
Is you transmission in P at the start of the entire process?
So when you initially start filling, engine is off which is well understood - you get the fluid to leak out, you then start the engine - in P or N?
Then you open the fill plug again, fill it until it starts leaking again and engine is running, then you go through the gears, then go back underneath the car and re-check the fluid level and temperatures. This time you left the transmission in N for that last check.
Do I really need to reprogrammed car after mechatronic kit. Wouldn't it be able to relearn everything after couple days?..planning on doing theses weekend..what do you suggest about battery being connected or disconnected if it fact i don't have for the reprogrammed. Would it help to relearn faster if I leave battery connected?? Any advise would be gladly appreciated..great content btw!!!
Good video. Wish u went with OEM filter tray
the generics are fine, this is my third filter.
Where did you place the jack stand in the rear . The hardest part is to jack up both front and the rear. What is the sequence to lift both ends.
Just did mine take the drain fill plug out first. I could not get mine off with a 8mm allen key it was bending but i was able to make a allen T with a welder and that worked. But if i had done that last I would have had a car with a new pan and no trans fluid in it and no way to get it in there. You will be covered in oil head to toe just face it and cover up the floor.
Question how long was the car running until it reach 40degrees c? I don’t have any temp scanners
Sir . Thank you
if you do it on a colder day, its much easier or else chill or refrigerate fluid prior to buy more time.
Great video, can you add a link to the Mechtronic Body tightening sequence please
Its OK Found it
www.zftranspart.com/images/custom/mecha.pdf
@@00Highlanda00 Thank you!
As the transmission has 200 000 klm on it, was there any reason you did not change out the soleniod valves ?
With regard to filling the transmission, I use a cheap garden hand pump sprayer from a hardware store and fit some clear hose of the nozzle.
What was the outward manifestation that indicated you needed to do this? Is there a DIY way to read the clutch pressure adaptions first and then to reset? I am getting a little bump on roll out from second gear to first in my 2005 Jaguar XK8. Very well done video. I really think putting the fluid in a pan and using an electric pump would be easier.
good question. If you wait until there are symptoms, its late. These transmissions need oil change every 60000km. When doing oil change you inspect the seals etc and stop any symptoms, then in that case you have trouble free for more than 250kkms. Symptoms include difficult gear change, limp mode, slow or delayed gear change, bumpy gear change as you mentioned. Sometimes bumpy gear change from 1st to second and visa versa is the flex joint gotten worn. Yes oil pump is good
Any links to zf manual?
What are the premium liquid brands? What is the cheapest you would recommend? I would love to see your video of changing transmission oil in discovery III. There is a tricky situation with the space for removing plastic pan.
ZF6 brand fluid only
Can I use Pro ATF +4 for my BMW 525 2007 e61?
Why would anyone in their right mind reuse the old pan/filter again ? You also convinced me about ever doing this job without a lift . I'd rather pay an indi or trany shop very familiar with the ZF trans procedure to do this job for me ....worth every penny imho
How many bottles of fluid did you use?
Where did you got the manual of the ZF?
Interesting that you reused the sump with integral filter, which I presume was a financial consideration.
I have same ZF 6HP26 transmission in my recently acquired Jaguar, which I intend to maintain as best I can on a budget.
As a precaution I intent to do the Mechatronic, plug and valve seals as you do in this video, but have bought the metal sump with separate filter.
That way each time I do just a fluid change, I can get a new filter and gasket for under £20 in UK, which is around a 75% saving over a plastic ZF sump with integral filter.
Fantastic video you made here, giving me more confidence going into the job, as I've never delved in to an automatic transmission before.
Thank you.
thank you, good luck. Yes i had changed the sump quite recently, but also showing how to get around the generic sump with the nut that does not work properly...
Hi, great video, I'm doing same thing now and following your video. I am debating whether to replace the mechatronic unit or just the solenoids. Are all of the (accumulator?) pistons supposed to push in and out via spring action? On my ZF6HP19 mechatronic, some pistons don't move at all. Specifically, in my unit, there are 5 pistons with cotter pins on the underside (assuming top side is where one can see the solenoids), 3 of them facing the right, 2 facing the left. The smaller 2 of the 3 facing the right, push in and out with spring action pushing them back out. The third, being the bigger one, with a bigger radius, is stuck, does not move. The other 2 pistons, facing the left are stuck, do not move. Looking at the edge of the mechatronic, opposite to the edge where the solenoid valves are, there are 6 pistons with cotter pins, 2 on the longer part that's protruding, they both push in and spring back out (one of them is deeper in, but still can be pushed with a finger), and there are 4 on the shorter part, by the tab that reads 1068327179. Out of these 4, the 2 smaller ones, to the left, push in and spring back out. The 2 to the right, with bigger radius, are stuck. Is this normal, or the pistons that are stuck are bad and I need a new mechatronic unit? Thank you very much for your time.
sorry i cannot answer your question, would have to examine it myself. If you had no gear changing problems i would leave it.
Please can you tell me sherry dis you vêt INPA for tour BMW ? Than you and excellent vidéo 🙂
please ask your question again, i could not understand
could you post parts number for everything u used?
Perdón mi ignorancia, pero que es lo que se le cambia debajo del cuerpo de válvulas??? Quiero saber si es por algo en especial mi caja está pegando una patada de tercera a segunda marcha , y se encendió el testigo de falla de cambio y ahora se apago
Will changing my fluid stop my gearbox slipping?
I have a bmw x1 jerking when changing from second to third, I noticed a pressure spike in the transmission readings
Nice job 😉 do you have a link for the torque data and the correct tightening order?
thanks. sorry I dont have a link.
ecologicaltime where did you find the information from?
@@bimmerladuk7287 media.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15119/ZF_Transmissions_with_Mechatronics.pdf
Brother I've a 320i 2006 with the ZF-6 auto transmission... It's mileage is 78,000 km.
Nowadays it gives a jerk while changing the gear in auto mode. Is it because of the mechatronic or needs the oil change?
In manual/ step tronic mode the jerks won't be there.
Can u plz guide me to either change the oil only or the mechatronic as well?
Regards
Can somebody to tell me for what is this adaptor at 11:00 min. and what happen if is broken. I have Jaguar XF 2012 with ZF8 gearbox and There is a shaking when changing gears. I changed the oil and the filter on the gearbox but the problem was not solved. And I doubt it is a mount (pad) on the gearbox or this plastic adapter will be broken
Hey man, my 550i shifts 1-2-3 on startup, then goes into limp mode. should i do the solenoids? or could replacing the mechatronics seals and cleaning the valve body/solenoids, and replacing the fluid and filter possibly fix the problem?
can be both. I would first do the easier one and test. Also check the errors that the car throws out using INPA
You can always just look at the transmission body when replacing the seal tubes, it is curved and the seals start from roughly the middle and then off to one side so you can see which is the longest, next longest and then the two which are the same size. 👍
I turkey Istanbul from you I have a tool that will be a question of protons brand, model 1998 Mitsubishi vehicle with the engine automatic transmission's my problem means I'm running but not moving is doing a very slow start automatic transmission I made new, but the car cıktı solenoid problem spot is not coming up, how do we solve, you must help me
any idea what would cause a blinking dash with power cut on an E66? thanks
check your fuses in the glove box.
Is there a gasket between the mechatronics and the gearbox? the screws are Tx 40, right? the others are smaller? Thank you
i dont recall there being a gasket.
Did this today, what a mission!! , and I was doing a simple flush without dropping pan. The temp reading was a problem. The start temp reported by ista was 53 degrees, seems implausible as pan was cold and car had not even been started yet.Followed procedure as best I could despite the temp reading. Shifts are smooth, hope I got the correct level in . You South African as well ? Cannot miss the accent
thanks, yes SA
ecologicaltime i saw you used Liqui Moly instead of ZF Lifeguard 8, have you had any problems? im in Canada and ZF fluid is very expensive here
no problems, been using it for years. Good oil.
How easy if you use the pump.
como sabe que o carro esta nivelado? é a minha grande duvida
It was a preventive seal replacement or there was some specific behavior of automatic transmission that make you change those seals? Great tutorial btw.
routine maint
Ah yes. Bolt head snapping. Something I never tire of……..
hi Ecologicaltime think I heard a good South African Accent >>>? Mate Great Work Just one Question can you post a link to the parts you bought to service it ( Amazon or Ebay or what not ) My BMW is stuck in gear think its Solenoids and or Dirty oil so its my understanding that I need to change rubber tubes, oil , trans filter and maybe a few solenoids... Awesome video keep it up !!!! cheers
thank you. I purchased originals from BMW dealer. Here is the website for the part numbers:
www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=HL82-EUR-02-2006-E65-BMW-750i&mg=24
www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HL82-EUR-02-2006-E65-BMW-750i&diagId=24_1014
www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HL82-EUR-02-2006-E65-BMW-750i&diagId=24_1009
The filter i used was from Amazon. If i recall it was a Beck Arnley but i no longer see it on Amazon.
Great video. Thanks. Why isnt it as easy as replacing the same amount oil that came out instead of all the extra procedures?
you could do that but its inaccurate as the viscosity of the oil changes as the oil degrades, not only from temp change, but also from degradation. Thus as the oil heats up its particles separate further apart, this separation is different for an old used oil versus a new oil.
@@ecologicaltime thanks so much my friend!
Did you used all 9L? How much left? I am asking as ZF gearbox kit only offers 7L together with the pan/filter. Thnx
no, i think its about 7l
Great video my question is do you know why my car won’t start now and the dash gearbox keeps blinking after doing this
it sounds like the plug is not in correctly
did u fill it back up with oil
11jeepwrangler did you figure it out?
How'd you fix it?
Check that the park lever is aligned on the side of the mechatronic unit. If not, the car doesn't register that it is in P and it will not start.
Couldnt find mechatronic sleeve kit for 8hp55. Do you know where to find one
this is not expensive, dealer should have.
could probably use a tap or screw of the right size to bite the rubber enough to pull them out.
Hello 👋 there!
Where can I find the PDF to tight the screw’s ?? Thnx a lot in advance 🙏👍
Hey mate, did you find it? Looking for it also
I have my torque wrench set to 8ng but I feel like the screws keep turning even after it feels tight. I’m worried I’ll break something.
what is ng?
Very nice. Several questions...maybe dumb questions, just curious
1. Why does the bolt install pattern matter?
2. How does that whole 40 degree deal matter - can you not fill it above 40?
1. tightening of covers, bodies, etc often must be completed in a certain order to stop torsional forces on the body which could crack the body. By following the tightening sequence you distribute the force evenly as you tighten the unit.
2. Oil changes viscosity as its temp changes. If i fill my oil with engine off in Siberia and you fill in Dubai, our fill amount swill be different as the ambient temp is different. Then also the oil must circulate in the transmission so i guess they selected a reference point at 40 which they have calibrated with the volume of the transmission
@@ecologicaltime awesome explanation even I can understand...thanks!
i would suggest cleaning thoroughly area around connector before removing it. this should lower chance any debris will get into tranny when reinserting adapter.
hi, I did not understand exactly how to proceed with the cleaning of the valve unit. Is it essential or only recommended? thank you and greetings !
not essential, just easier to work with while doing service.
Which how many Nm I must tighten the mechatronics screws (Tx 40)? Where did you find the instructions? Which program do you have to control the temperature? Thanks
i used INPA. There are some instructions on www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e65-750i-lim/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-12-cylinder-head-with-lid/
All torque settings are there. I didnt follow the manual though so you may find it differs from my video
@@ecologicaltime Thank you and good luck!
Sorry, i am no expert or anything but i have studied about this greatly and as far as I understand you should not have a full stream flow and close it immediately, because it would be overfilled and that will cause problems specially going in park gear. If you have no drip, you need to top it up. The correct time to close the cap is when you should have a mild constant dripping flow.
Any thoughts?
its fine the way it was shown. the difference is minor, not even 50ml. done this plenty
Please can you tell why we need to change seals?
the rubber gets compressed and loose their full thickness getting shorter over the years. Some of the plastic seals crack and result in rough gear change.
What symptoms did you had? Or have you done it prophylactic?
had some hesitation on low gear changes and sometimes a jerk 1 to 2.
Thanks for the video, I have some question and hope you can feedback as I do DYI my own car. When you remove the electrical connector and removed the valve body assembly. Do we need to removed the battery connection first? . After completing all job , Do we expect error code /error alrm in the car that requires reset?
no, and no. Done it many times and never had error codes.
Thanks heaps @@ecologicaltime
Hello,
by any chance you know a part number or a link to a website to get an input speed sensor for a BMW 750I 2009. plan to do some DIY on the transmission but i recently got an error about " Transmission Fault Code: 400626 - Turbine speed sensor short circuit to ground or
open circuit"
sorry i dont
Thomas Whittaker speed sensors only can change with complete mechatronic !
Hey man, I'd like to ask your opinion: My 'box is in an e60 already way over 200k, ZF kempton did a rebuild on the clutches already but even after that there's what sounds like a slip between 3 and 4 (harsh noise not dissimilar to sawing wood and a slight hesitation at times). Don't trust ZF dudes anymore so.... could these seals be causing this? Or is it more likely to be the solenoids? Due to the rebuild I highly doubt the clutches/torque converter(replaced) could be the problem. Even if you don't know, any advice would be appreciated. Even if it's the name of a shop that could help me out or a pointer to someone knowledgable who can just listen to it. The people at ZF just seem to be rehearsing a script when you talk to them. It's very frustrating not being able to find real help.
hi, these boxes should easily go over 200k if they have had regular services like oil changes.There is a seal in the box which can also cause what you describe. If you have not recently opened the box, if i were you i would open the transmission and inspect the unit. Check the seals. If seals are all fine or you change them all and new oil and it still doing what you describe, consider new solenoids. You can get them as a kit. This site is helpful www.bmwlogicseven.com/?page_id=4013
In terms of rebuilds for transmissions, i think ZF simply swap them as they are reconditioned in Germany. Clutches i am not sure about their process.
@@ecologicaltime Thanks a lot for the info. Before I open it up I'm going to have to get basic stuff like obd, etc. But I guess it's about time. Think while I'm there I'll do seals and as you said solenoids if it still struggles. These cars are so bulletproof I'd hate to have to dispose of it just for this. Great videos!
I changed my valve body do I have to reset my transmission with a computer of some kind? It’s giving me a problem with getting out of park
i dont think so. what i think is, while refitting your new valvebody, they could not align the gear lever cable correctly.
i have a problem with getting out of park also on a cold start especially. it needs few minutes and then it shift fine. and why did you change your valve body btw?
GOOD JOB , BUT WHY NOT TO CHANGE THE FILTER TOO ?
How oftrn do u have to change the mechatronic seal?
usually lasts longer than 8 years
Hi, I did the same procedure on my bmw 550i recently. Unfortunetly, I did something wrong and my car won't go into park. I'm thinking it may have to do with the E-brake. -I didn't use cable ties to hold the lever in please prior to putting it back together. Do you think I would need to realign it with the e-brake lever in a certain location? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!
the park lever is not in place.
Snapped the #1 bolt holding up the mechatronics unit. Will it still work😞
yes. Try get another one
@@ecologicaltime I went ahead and finished the job and it seems to be running great, all hard shifts and over revs are gone so hopefully it won't affect it.😁
Same zf that is in the 2011 335i?