Sharpening Hand Plane Blades - (On a budget !)
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2020
- Sharpening Hand Plane Blades on a budget. Just starting out and can't afford a full set of sharpening gear? Rob shows you a solution for sharpening hand plane blades on a budget and still get a respectable edge. Over time you can add to this sharpening kit and take your sharpening to the next level.
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* VIDEOS ROB MENTIONS:
- Sharpen a Hand Plane Blade (32 Seconds to Sharp): • Sharpening A Plane Bla...
- Hand Plane Adjust for Super Thin Savings: • Hand Plane Adjustment ...
* TOOLS ROB USES:
- Trend 300/1000 Diamond Stone: robcosman.com/collections/sha...
- Sharpening Rule: robcosman.com/collections/sha...
- Hand Plane Screwdriver: robcosman.com/collections/pla...
- Palne Wax: robcosman.com/collections/pla...
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Rob, thank you so much for being on UA-cam! Your objectivity and insight is extremely helpful and demystifies so much of the process of setting up and using a plane. You're clear, concise and tell us WHY (for the love of all things holy) we're doing what we're doing. Body mechanics, feel, supplies, parts selection--sir, you cover everything and make me go further down the rabbit hole by referencing and linking to other relevant content. Thank you. Thank you. Thank YOU!
Thanks Rob, I really appreciated this, Sharpening is one on the most important things to know. It is also fairly confusing for weekend garage shop woodworkers like me. You rock. And as a vet, but not combat vet, I do really appreciate what you do for our wounded veterans. I've promoted your work to others.
I've watched you do this many times and I never get bored, just waiting for the dust to settle and some events to open up so I can sell some of my projects, so I can afford either one of those great stones. As of now I'm using your method but on some really cheap imitation diamond plates from a major tool store. Even then with your process I can get close to good shavings and finish so thanks a bunch for all you do. I am a vet, not combat wounded thank God and in my mid 70's learning from great people like you. Keep on smiling.
Thanks for your service. Glad my method is helping. Once you upgrade stones you will see a huge difference
You are an absolute legend Mr Cosman, thank you for teaching me ! 👍🏻
Hi Rob, used this method for months before I purchased an additional 10k ceramic stone. Best thing I've bought yet, not quite as fine, but fine enough for me, so thank you for the information you provide. Nice voice break at 2:01 too lol
I just got my first box of your tools yesterday, and I got more coming Friday. I work in a small cabinet shop and have done countless dovetail drawers with a router. Now I'm super stoked make them your way. Not for the shop but for fun.
Thanks for all your videos you are a great teacher and great person for what you all do for the vets.
Thanks, and thanks for watching
Thank you! Newbie here and I want to learn how to use the tools correctly.
Great video Rob, I liked it, sharpening doesn't have to be so complicated.
Another superb tutorial - always an eye out for the beginner with basic tools, equipping them with enough skills to get started effectively and therefore more likely to continue. We;; done. Rob - really useful.
thanks for watching and commenting
Good stuff Rob. Thanks for your time!
thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks Rob, now getting smooth to the touch wood. Cheers. Seriously thinking about the Shapton stone next.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Great video 👍🏻
i do sharpening service . you are excellent teacher Good job....
Great lesson Rob, as always it was full of good information. Thanks for sharing it...
Thanks for watching and commenting
I do think, I can ever get that sound of plane that you do.
But I keep doing my best. And , you are the best.
Greetings from California.
Thank you. It’s such a pleasure to use a truly sharp plane.
you got to love what you can do with a sharp blade
Thank you sir for sharing your thoughts
Awesome as usual
After many decades in woodwork, I thought your wax trick was bunk, but had some in my kit that I used for stiffening line and lubricating screws and gave it a try. Wow! I am sold. It especially reduced chatter on the ends of legs when leveling.
Wax- 1 Bunk - 0 !!!!!
It was a real surprise and pleasure to discover your wonderful videos on UA-cam. I remember seeing you at the Toronto Woodworking Show I am guessing some 35 years back. You were just starting out then (I think} with Lie Neilsen but your talent and skill was very evident. Needless to add you have continued to impress and entertain. I can still see you doing dovetails at the show stand with your wife assisting. Congratulations on the complete professionalism now so evident in your presentations.
Will continue to follow and recommend !
Thank you Robert. Not quite 35 years, did my first Toronto show in 2000, the year I started representing LN. Glad you are enjoying the videos, we try to release two a week. cheers
Rob
A couple of weeks ago I went through and sharpened all my planes and chisels using your hand sharpening method. It did not take long and the repetition of sharpening by hand became easier and easier. It is pleasure to work with the hand tools now, thanks. I would much rather make shavings than dust.
I couldn't agree more. Congrats on learning to freehand....now tell your friends.
Thanks for another great video. Hope the cold gets better soon....
I hope so too. Thanks for commenting
Thanks Rob and team, I use your system on all my planes and chisels. I am currently building a walnut table with hand cut mortises and tenons. It is such a good feeling knowing I can finish the project without day's of sanding.
Got to love no sanding....And fresh air
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Fresh air, you can say that again, until the lacquer.
Hi Rob
How did you grind your primary bevel back to 25° ?
Nice Videos
Also, wish someone had told me this a long time ago, great video Rob! I started with a mix of scary sharp and a 600 EZ Lap stone.
deciding on your sharpening system is such a hard thing to do. There is just way to many methods out there and if you are inexperienced you just don't know who to listen to
Makes me want to buy a plane, some chisels and your sharpening kit. Looks fun.
Rob, this is what I've been looking for, I can't afford the 16k stone. This will do me perfectly. Thank-you.
Glad it helped Ross!
You’ve seen me comment before. But I have to say just teaching and not selling is why I have become a huge fan.I have purchased quite a few of the things you recommend and have to say my woodworking has elevated to a new level I never knew I was lacking. It has been fun trying the tecnics you should and when you try them you will become hooked.i added a shapton 16000, I built two shooting books , bought a 5-1/2 .i am set for now. Except bench chisels. This will elevate any new woodworkers ability to use a hand plane and find its not intimidating.
Its great when things click isn't it? glad you find our videos helpful. Thanks for watching and please keep commenting
You are an amazing teacher and I LOVE all these new videos on your channel. I met you a few years ago (in a Woodcraft store empty of other shoppers) and you took me through the whole sharpening routine. I bought all the good stuff but have yet to master it. I don’t recognize when to stop and my blade is always lopsided. Even with an angle jig. 😂 (May have even ruined the tip of my beautiful 1/4” IBC chisel. And don’t own a grinder to rescue it 😖).
But time has gone by and I am trying the hand tool thing again- this time with more woodworking experience and confidence. Thank you again!
Hi Cindy, slow and steady wins the race. Better to do a little and check frequently, this allows you to make corrections before you have gone too far. Hang in there.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks!
Great stuff Rob. I use the Veritas jig, it only takes a second to set up, but I definitely want that Trend stone as I hate waiting 15 minutes for my water stones to prep
trend is a great stone
Very interresting method, I'm going to give it a try. Just a tip for honing the back side of the blade: instead of a ruler you may use a strip of 'feeler gauge shim roll', found it in lenghts of 5m and 10m, width as the ruler, carbon steel and (more useful) stainless steel, and thicknesses from 0.02mm up to 1mm. If you are in contact with a metal worker, ask him for a short strip.
I’ve been saving up for your stone. Hopefully I’ll grab one eventually. Thanks for making an idiot like me able to do this!
Not an idiot, you just need to be shown how. Glad to help. Keep the comments coming
Have always used a honing guide for sharping, never had much luck free hand sharpening, but as you mention I have been doing it on the bench so probably at the wrong height. Will certainly give this ago this week and see how I get on. Do you have any tips for sharpening carving gouges? I’m ok with my turning gouges as I use a Tormek system which I admit though expensive was a very worthwhile investment.
I like the previous person who commented have watched this video many times, I have just bought the trend 300/1000 stone and I'm going to try it, I'm a diyer and I like using hand tools, unfortunately being a pensioner I can't afford to buy Woodriver planes or Stanley higher numbered planes, the only plane I have is the stanley No 4 but it does what I need it for.
Great video! While I already have both the Trend and Shapton 16K stone and definitely recommend it if you can afford it, I can see the benefit of this budget friendlier sharpening method, and would have appreciated it when starting out.
Thanks for sharing! That's why we made it, lots of folks can't afford the whole kit to start out with.
I used one of those long razor blades to cut 3” thick memory form. Sharpened it with you hand technique. It was tricky because it’s not a solid blade (it’s flexible) but sharpened it and kept cutting more foam like butter.
wow thats great. I never tried that. thanks for commenting
I'm totally new to woodworking, and having seen a fairfew UA-cam video's in the past year or so I have often heard many of these youtuber's mention you by name!!!.
Having just watched a couple of your video's I can totally understand why!!.
That said I have just subscribed to your channel and look forward to learning many new things as to say I'm a novice would be kind to say the very least!!!.
💯% 👍🇬🇧
Welcome to the channel...What videos do you think we should make next?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking now that's a question I wasn't expecting, not too sure i shall give it some thought and hopefully let you know my answer after watching next week's episode 👍🇬🇧
Hi rob, I agree with most things you showed in this video, I personally don't use second bevels and I still feel a little iffy about the back bevel because the chipbreaker has to refference against such a small line of flatness, which really doesn't give you much room to play (for example: a plane with a close to the edge chipbreaker grants you less tearout, but is harder to push, a chip breaker that is further away from the edge is easier to push which is better for large amounts of stock removal, but because that part is not flat you run the risk of shavings getting stuck.) But I digress..
I am unsure if everyone is going to start off with a plane like a woodriver, I think starting off with an old beat up fleamarket stanley plane is more realistic.. and I would love to see how you would go about restoring one! Eventhough I know you prefer and reccommend starting off with a new mid-range plane like your woodriver planes
As for honing oils and fluids, I am still trying to find out what works best for me. I have been using mostly the Trend Lapping fluid. It resurrected a 30 year old set of DMT stones that I had. I was chatting with DMT about fluids, and the tech commented that you have to be careful with oils. Too thick of an oil, like 3 in 1, can actually have enough thickness to interfere with the sharpening, and this is a problem on the finer grit stones. Strangest one I heard of was auto glass cleaner, which is very thin. Knowing how sharp these things can get, I would never suggest using the palm of your hand. Leather strop would be far safer. There are diamond paste compounds down to 1 micron, which is about 16000 grit.
I have been teaching woodworking since 78, I saw some diamond stones on temu 22 bucks for 6 grits with rubber pad on back 300-2000 each grit on one plate. so you don't have to flip side. I did one blade on trend and one on temu. they cut the same, all your out is 22 bucks , check it out
Even less expensive would be a double-sided India oil stone like the Norton, and a homemade strop. I maintain my blades with the tan side of the Norton and a leather strop which gives a shaving edge. The planed surfaces are glassy and ready for finish. For my planes I am going to adopt Rob's ruler trick and the focus on just the cutting edges, which is brilliant.
I don not prefer oils stones nor strops. I prefer Shapton stones for their high quality, speed of cut, that hey can use water as a lubricant instead of oil, and I don't like stropping, I find stones easier and faster.
Learned so much from you about sharpening, plane use and setup, and generally just great stuff. One question, just out of curiosity, why the honing oil this time, as you have always (as far as I know) used water? Is it because of just using the diamond plate, as I know not to use oil on waterstones.
You are correct on all accounts.
I can do it. Thx
Do you have saw sharpening videos? I'm on the hunt for tenon and dovetail saws. And would love to have some insight on reconditioning them. Like. 002 set on dovetail saws
Yes I have ua-cam.com/video/shVEYJ3gW9M/v-deo.html
Is the sharpening method the same for block plane blades? Those blades are used the opposite of a hand plane blade if I am thinking correctly. You mention this will work fairly well on softer woods. Where would you rank hemlock, paper birch, and oak? I appreciate the simple technique found here and have purchased the budget items and hope the shipping won't take too long. Thank you for sharing your experience.
I use the plane occasionally. What sharpening stones do I need?
Hello Rob. I have a question, why can't we regrind our blades at 30 degrees instead of adding a secondary bevel on the primary 25 degrees bevel? Is there a scientific reason that requires us to keep the 25 primary and 30 secondary bevels?
can you aply the same technique for sharpening chisels? first with the this stone and later upgrading by buying the 16000grid stone?
I've watched a few of your videos and have learned a lot. I don't know if you see responses to older videos but I'll ask a question anyway. In your 1000 vs 16000 grit video from 2014, your sharpening setup is the same as it is in your 2020 videos. Except for your earlier video having no patches on your apron. Are you still using the same Trend 300/1000 and Shapton 16000 grit stones from 2014? I bought the Trend 300/1000 diamond plate for $85 on Amazon and the Shapton 16000 grit glass stone is $136. So before I spend that kind of money, I was wondering how long these stones last, taking into consideration the frequency that someone sharpens their blades.
The advice at around 08:00 mins, to prepare a new Trend Diamond plate is quite critical, I didn't do that and it ruined my 8000 Shapton stone.
I've got a 1000 and 160000 shapton stones and a cheap (but flat) coarse diamond plate for flattening would you suggest getting the trend diamond plate or wait until I've fully worn out my shapton first?
I've got the Trend 300/1000 plate and it's very nice. But if your diamond plate is flat and getting the job done, you might as well keep using it.
I really dig having a 1000 diamond that's always perfectly flat and never wears out though.
I use similar, just add strop with green compound to add a bit of polish. For anything that needs full on truly sharp, I have a cheap 10000 grit water stone pre strop.
The 16000 shapton will come one day when that water stone wears out haha
there are so many videos out there with respected woodworkers telling people that are starting out to start with scary sharp, oil or wetstones that would simply have to be replaced by the viewer when they decided to upgrade and that wastes a ton of money in the long run. starting with the trend stone and building upon it ,however, is perfect advice. it is wise to save your money and buy the right tool rather than some cheap version that you will always be unhappy with. i really wish i had gotten advice like this when i was first starting out. great video rob and try not to scream so much when you are playing hockey. real quick side question, is there any way, outside of facebook, that i can get some of manoli xios's music? i really dig that original song he played the last two live streams.
No he only has Facebook at this time
I build my sharpening system based on your recommendation: instead of using 16000 grit, I use 8000 grit stone from the same company, and then do the final polishing with leather strop and honing compound. Although I haven’t done any comparison, I believe I can get very similar results, and the 8000 stone costs about half the price of 16000
Good deal. I prefer the speed of a two stone method. I find that many of my students find it hard to use a strop. But if you have a system that works for you stick with it and perfect it.
Rob, I’ve tried to find some of your videos that cover finishes, but I wasn’t successful. Would you consider doing a video talking about different finishes and which ones you use/prefer?
I use only two: A tung oil finish and sprayed on lacquer. Finishes is a deep rabbit hole. I just keep it simple with these two
RobCosman.com which finish is appropriate for what types of projects though?
Can I use Olive Oil?
damn good video thanks
Thanks. I think so too
Love
enough said
When you get a new blade do you prefer O1 steel or A2? I know that you can get a keener edge with O1 but A2 is more durable. Or do you use A2 for removing a lot of material and then O1 on a smoother to get the perfect surface?
I don’t believe any of that about 0-1. When you can sharpen an A-2 in 30 seconds and it cuts such that you cannot determine room for improvement, and it lasts! Why would anyone choose O-1?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you! It is valuable info to have coming from a working professional such as yourself.
Would a 12k finishing stone be just as good as 16k? I'm looking at a 12k stone for 60 bucks, but the 16k would cost me 180 after taxes, three times the price. I'm wondering how much I'd really be missing out going for the 12k.
Do you typically run blades straight like that without a camber or even easing the corner?
Sorry if that’s a dumb question. I’m pretty new to this.
He definitely does explain that in the 30 second sharpening video
What Charlie says! I prefer straight blades to camberred I do ease the corner in my full sharpening method. CHeck out my video 32 seconds to sharp and you will see me explain it
Help! Every time I sharpen my blades and start trying to take a shaving I only get shavings on the sides of the blade and there is nothing in the center. What am I doing wrong? I always focus on the outside edges at the end as you have described. I am using water stones or sandpaper. Just received my 16000 grit Shapton today and would like to get a cleaner shaving.
1-stones must be flat and kept flat
2-pressure from your fingers needs to be evenly distributed and light to moderate
3-review 1 and 2
I’ve heard that a Japanese style plane is better for soft woods and a western style is better for hardwoods - why, exactly, would that be? Body, base, blade, angle?
What do you set the stone(s) on so they don't slide around while sharpening? The surface in this video looks flat; it is rubber, or what?
The surface on my sharpening station is a rubber dog food mat, but the Trend Diamond stones come with a small rubber placemat the size of the stone.
Hey Rob, whats the fluid you use in the blue bottle? ive heard that window cleaner and water can cause rust on the stone, are you using some kind of oil because it looks thicker than water.
It’s known as a Honing Fluid
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks! Do you wich brand it is. Is it better as window cleaner?
Hi Rob, I've heard you can't use the "Charlesworth trick" (little back bevel with ruler) on bevel up planes, because the back should be completely flat. I've spent hours trying to flatten the whole back :-( Any thoughts?
Yes you can. The bevel up blade back is still angled at presentation to the wood, so as long as your back bevel doesn’t exceed your frog angle, the back bevel still works.
One thing I do with the back of a new blade is to flatten the edge about 1/8 to 1/4 inch wide. 2 reasons. That way I know for sure the edge of the chip breaker is on a flat surface on the top of the blade. Also, when it becomes necessary to grind or hone the primary bevel I don't have to reflatten the back.
That works. means you spend a lot more time setting up a new plane blade, but not as much as flattening the whole back
Aspin is a hardwood?
Aspen, sheds its leaves in the fall and grows new ones in the spring.
I found a 25$ diamond stone on Amazon similar to the trend. It is monocrystaline and uses electroplating which is what is used in the trend. Is this a good deal or a trick to take me away from my money?
Vane, I am telling you there is no way to manufacture quality monocrystalline diamonds, and electroplate them (using nichel) on a highly flat (+/1 .005) solid piece of thick metal and sell them for $25. It is just not possible. DMT cant do it. Trend cant do it. And they are the industry leaders and have the advantage of high sales and very efficient production. Something is fishy someplace...trust me.
I was also very suspicious and some of the reviews even mentioned the stone became dull after use. Thanks for clarifying!
Water or oil?
Is that a new type of adjustment knob on your plane? Will you be selling them?
Very soon!
In your regular sharpening technique You apply more pressure to the right then left side of the blade for a couple of seconds to ease the corners. Should you do the same with this technique?
Yes you can but the issue is its a much coarser stone so you will remove more metal, that's why I don't do it. If you choose to do it go for 2 seconds only
I am using this method since since last march as I couldn't manage to get the 16000 stone. The result of using 1200 Dimond stone is fine but still not getting the continue shaving as you do.
Yes I know. you really have to get up into the 16K grit with a good stone. I use to go 1000 to 30K on a shapton but the 30 K stone is VERY expensive the 16K is the next best to get great shavings
Will do, thanks
This video does raise the issue of what lubricant/honing fluid to use on a diamond stone. Trend sells its own fluid that's hugely expensive and claims that WD40 is too thick, making the blade skip over the stone. The Smith's Honing Oil you're using does look to be pretty viscous - it certainly doesn't immediately spread out on the stone like Trend's product does - but looks to be working just fine. What's the true story here? The "on a budget" aspect of using only the diamond stone could include not using the very expensive Trend product.
Any light oil works.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I've heard some people use window cleaner as it provides decent particle suspension and doesn't oxidize the metal. Have you ever tried or heard that?
I understand the 13 seconds on a new blade but what if you have a old (25 to 30 year old) rusty blade?
Well once you get it unrusted and prepped its all the same
Ok. I was hoping to get some advice on the cleanup but thank you
I wore away my skin on the 1000 side on the tip of my little finger. He's right, you can't feel it at the time . You will after though!!
I'm wondering if that's why I keep ending up with a little bit of a flat middle finger after trying to sharpen my blades. Hm!
Well structured, detailed, simple, memorable lesson. What happened to the mountain man look. Second thought's? Too many kids?
Wife told me to shave
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Tired of sleeping next to Grizzly.
💎💎💎💎💎
When adding a 10$ strop or some cheap scary sharp papers this will be fine for hardwood aswell.
I prefer a Shapton 16K stone, I find it much better than a strop and my students find it much easier to use.
I thought you said “on a budget”??!! Those items are not “budget”. Alternatives?
That low bench is just stupid, it's gonna kill your back eventually
Hasn’t killed it yet, 30 years going strong.
He's not spending hours bent down either.
No Money and no time to work what are you doing in woodwork Go Home buy Ikea ready to go Chris Schmidt