Hand Plane Skills Playlist: ua-cam.com/video/JBFfFhQzkhY/v-deo.html TOOLS USED IN THIS VIDEO Diamond Stones: amzn.to/2UwxIyP Water Stones: amzn.to/2L7426I Honing Guide: bit.ly/2G6P1mC Polishing Compound: amzn.to/2L7426I Veg Tan Med Leather Strop Material: amzn.to/2XB5weH
I just got a new standard hand plane, (well relitively new since it was in an antique shop it was in great condition), and after buying it I noticed something off about the blade edge. It is a diamond edge. And my questions for you are, can I sharpen a diamond edge on my whetstones and strap, do I ever actually have to sharpen it, what do I do with something like this?
@@katzmosestools So, Diamond Edge is the strictly brand apparently. However the blade for it was apparently replaced at some point and the edge was extremely hard and very difficult to sharpen, so for awhile I thought it was actually diamond edged like some tools I've used in the past.
@@pignewton9840 i didnt even have any adrenaline when it happened, i just felt a chip peel off, looked at my hand, and there was just blood pouring out.
I absolutely love what you do bud!! I literally went from having no clue how to sharpen chisels and planer irons to basically using my planer iron as a mirror and shaving my face with my chissel. You literally make learning new skills effortless and super easy to understand and follow. Between binge watching tutorials from Matt Eslea and yourself, I really feel like in a few years time I will be close your level of expertise!! Sincerely from the bottom of my heart I really appreciate what you do pal!! Keep up the greatness!!
Jonathon, I've been an educator at the university level for more than 35 years. Your presentation/teaching style exemplifies among the best that I've seen in all my career. Your teaching is clear, easy to follow, and quite thorough. Bravo to you and your channel. I can see why you have over 475K subscribers. Keep doing what you do so well!
A great video! Superbly explained and with crystal clear visuals. So deeply appreciate this. Thank you, Jonathan! 🙏 A huge thank you too, for NO MUSIC!!! What joy. I needed to hear the sharpening sounds too, that was educational.🥰❤
My old man, who was a boat builder said, "If you can shave your arm with the blade, it's sharp enough." Also, if there are no dings in it, stropping the blade often keeps it fresh.
I bought a cheap horrible genetic branded no.4 a few years back when getting into working on the house and woodworking. Put me off hand planes. But then one day I came across a couple of old Stanley's now I've got a small collection. Sharpening then right was such a big part of the enjoyment of using them.
Wow, I’ve never put a micro-bevel on the back of a plane iron before. I’ve always tried to keep the back mirror bright and flat. Will give this a go. Thank you Matt- love your quality tools and enthusiasm. I thought I knew about sharpening but ended up watching your video several times.
I'm a fan of Matt Estlea and by you mentioning him positively in your video talks a lot about your great ethics my friend, thanks for your great video and I'm happily subscribing to your channel
Some people have to climb a mountain & speak to a wise man to make sense of this world, I just need to watch tools being cared for and I find inner peace. Cheers from a shed in England. (Well I'm not a shed, that would be really weird, but you know)
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Hi Jonathan, great video. I cant seem to achieve anywhere near this with a double sided oil stone. I must be doing something wrong lol! I will keep trying though
I enjoy to sharpen my tools and take my time to do it. In the beginning I spent a lot of time to restore the blades of old tools, later I spent a lot of time to correct my mistakes, because the stones I used weren’t flat. So keep your stones flat and enjoy the process of sharpening. First improve your results than the speed.
Something I did not see you do on the video but I figure you do it anyway. When you wipe off the blade between grits wipe off the roller, too. Just as you can transfer larger pieces of grit from the coarse stones to the finer stones via the blade you can transfer even more on the roller. Second point is locking your wrists. I lock them against my stomach and strop the blade while moving my entire body sideways. Of course the strop is oriented sideways, also.
Hi! I really like your videos, because your tips are really simple. Also I like that your videos are 4k quality, so that we can really see all the details and thats very important for me. Cheers from Slovenija.
Wow. I so regret taking my brand new plane and attacking my 'scraping on my kitchen floor', door now. I guess it gives me the chance to practice my ninja blade sharpening technique. Just getting into working with wood. You make me realise how far there is to go. Great vid, mate.
Incredibly useful video I'll be honest mine is not as beautiful especially without guide, and I still stuggle to set up the hand planer. BUT I progressed a lot in a short time thanks to this channel 😄
I am having a plane blade with carbide tip. Having tough time to put it for first use. Only diamond stones are able to remove material from the plane. I don’t yet have whetstones higher than 170 grit. I will be getting 400 and 1000 grit diamond whetstones which may help to get better finish than now. But I seriously doubt if I will be able to successfully strop this carbide tip plane. I would really appreciate a guidance on carbide tipped plane.
If you are sharpening routinely, how do you store your stones? My understanding is that storing whetstones in water long term isn't great for them. But, I find myself not good at timing my sharpening needs and knowing when to fill the bin with water to start the soak.
That Veritas jig must be the most uncomfortable and cumbersome one out there. Their parallel jaw offering is way better, more so than the LN if I may say so. I've tried every method of sharpening under the sun and always gone back to a jig for repeatability and precision. Just don't push it forward (rounds the edge) or strop (rounds the edge). Start on diamond stone(s) and finish on a fine water stone with a small micro bevel up another couple of degrees. Keep the iron dead flat or use the Charlesworth ruler trick. Job done.
hey love your video, at the 8:27 you said about checking that it's still square, if it's not how and what would be the best way to square it off again before you carry on sharpening?
Hi there great video. I am about to buy some water stones to sharpen my block stanley no 4 plane. What stone grades did you say use for this purpose? Thank you in advance, Chris
For me as a metal person it is very interesting to see these planes. Honestly I have never seen a "standard" low angle plane" before. I did not even know they existed. I actually never held a plane made from steel in my hands. It really seems as if german carpentership is somewhat behind in that field. All I am used to is those nasty wooden planes that no one expect a zen master can set up right.
My great grandfather and grandfather both were farmers and part time black smith. My father remember that at home there was about 30 different home made plane, every one for different job. Now one router bit = one plane.
A woodworker using metal planes instead of wooden shows a basic distrust in his own trade. Those inverted blade low angle planes need a tight opening and are a pain if you try to plane unfinished wood.
So I’m knew to all this and I have a kobalt trimming plane. All I’m doing is shaving some small 1 in branches to make them have a little bit of a flat side. Anyways I can’t seem to get this thing set right and I’m not real sure how to sharpen it. Would I sharpen it like one in this video.
Legend has it that Jonathon Katz-Moses's tools are so scared of losing social media feuds that the come alive like they're in Toy Story and sharpen themselves...
Is this for minor repair because my blades need to at least start at 220 grit due to chips in the steal. Usually this is from me planning only two sides of a board. Watching everyone makes me feel I need better blades.
Hullo young man. Now when I watched the first video I gained super knowledge to hone (get it) my skills especially using the jig you have. I was the other type. Now I said at the time that the cost of all the sharpening equipment that you were using was for us in the UK was very expensive. now I am not one to repeat myself, I say repeat myself, but are you not repeating yourself. Read this out in your voice.
I just got an old Stanley no 2 wood plane that’s in really good shape but I am still soaking it in rust remover and getting everything in order before I use it
Works great. Use mylar backed abrasive such as used for polishing the ends of fiber optic cable. The abrasive lasts a long time, and using a little water keeps it clear. Use diamond stones for coarse work. My sheet abrasives start at 25um and go down to 0.3um, no stropping required.
I would LOVE some input on a situation: A great-grandfather had an oddly shaped grindstone that I think is quite emotional to me, but should I let someone cut it so I can sharpen my kitchen knifes on it? It's shaped like a stone-age rough sledgehammer without a hole, but he sharpened his blades on one half of the curved nside. An architect and furniture carpenter, working his planes to the core. I have a stack of different exotic wood pieces from the 1800s (his dad's), a pristine teak leveller with brass adjustable labelles, a hand-saw with beautiful carved teak handle, and tools and nick-nacks and so-forths. But that grindstone speaks to me, it's hold so much history. But leave it be, or let someone cut it straight? I could not be more torn between the options. It's so much used It would not wonder me if it was from the early 1700s. I've seen an old tool or two in my life. I know how to sharpen knives pretty well, I've done it by hand for 20 years at work and at home. I'm very confident in it, I would never do this man wrong. I'm doing 32.5 degrees at P2000 now. (Guess which line of family who thaught me that when I was 11 years old 🙂). I'm second to last in line for these things, I'll tell my niece about the significance when she grows up. Cut, or no cut?
I think i should get my friend at the head stone mason to cut it lenghtwise, p1000 on one side, maybe p2200 on the other one. So all the sharpening through history is still there, and I'll give it all to my niece whens she's established.
Thanks for the videos. Is it possible to use a blade bevel-down on a low-plane block? So as to get a cutting angle of only 12 degrees? I get that you'd have to grind the blade down, so maybe that would weaken it too much?
I just cannot sharpen my plane blade. Do I need something more than 1000/3000 grit, or should that get it to a decent edge? There’s almost no progress to show for 100+ strokes on each grit. There is a polished bevel now, but when I test it, it’s barely sharp. Help!
Thanks--v. helpful. Assuming that no one has unlimited fund$, what grit stones should a beginner start with? I.e., if you can afford only two, what should they be? And what should be third? fourth? (&c.). Thanks again!
F..... s...... took me 3 days to get that ( just started woodworking) ,thanks for video all perfect now! Tip: if u starting with not high quality tools check for accuracy ,coz my jig for sharpening probably randomly placed 30 degrees on scale! Get yourself a good one!
I've been reluctant to buy a decent hand plane other than a $10 one from the big box store. I can't afford to epically mess up during the sharpening process. But your videos lately have been very educational in that area. Not ready to pull the trigger yet but I'm getting there. :) Thanks for all your help.
my hand plane is like stuttering over a wood 2x4 gouging the wood. ive no experience with hand planers and found it in a barn and cleaned off its rust. it seemed pretty sharp as it can cut the sides of the 2x4 but going along the widthier part of the 2x4, it cant shave wood. is it not sharp enough or something? my hand plane is a stanley almost exactly like the old school one youre using except the frog is adjustable by two screws to move it forward or backward
@@katzmosestools wow thanks for the response! (and quick at that!). I will give sharpening a go and also will try it on hard wood after. yea it was a douglas fir 2x4 i think. im trying to make bows and arrows lool
Another thing you might check is to see if the plane is flat. Use a straight edge on the bottom of the plane. If you see any light along the edge, you'll have to flatten the bottom. Use a piece of tempered glass and some lapping compound and a bit of elbow grease. Work it until you have a clean, smooth bottom. Then wipe on just a little polish. When complete, it will glide over the wood with very little effort.
That video delivered only and exactly what I wanted to see and info I was looking for, edited nicely, and to the point (couldn't avoid that pun, sorry). Well done. Gonna go sharpen with this technique rather than read the idiot commenters who disagree with this. Go do something.
Some of the links (water stones, polishing compound, and leather strop) are either not working or the item is “unavailable.” Do you have some alternative links or alternative item suggestions for those?
After almost 30 years as a turner, I am getting into this phase of woodworking. Little to no experience with water stones. I did find out that DMT now makes 4000 and 8000 grit lapping plates. Waiting for them to arrive, but I won't have to mess with the water bath part, which is rather messy.... Funny thing about the stropping compounds. They are all different, and color has nothing to do with grit. ARGH!!!! Going with another DMT product, their polishing pastes, up to 16000 grit or 1 micron.
Hand Plane Skills Playlist: ua-cam.com/video/JBFfFhQzkhY/v-deo.html
TOOLS USED IN THIS VIDEO
Diamond Stones: amzn.to/2UwxIyP
Water Stones: amzn.to/2L7426I
Honing Guide: bit.ly/2G6P1mC
Polishing Compound: amzn.to/2L7426I
Veg Tan Med Leather Strop Material: amzn.to/2XB5weH
I just got a new standard hand plane, (well relitively new since it was in an antique shop it was in great condition), and after buying it I noticed something off about the blade edge. It is a diamond edge. And my questions for you are, can I sharpen a diamond edge on my whetstones and strap, do I ever actually have to sharpen it, what do I do with something like this?
Anubis Pup
9(.
@@RockinChairGoblin I've never even heard of that type of blade
@@katzmosestools So, Diamond Edge is the strictly brand apparently. However the blade for it was apparently replaced at some point and the edge was extremely hard and very difficult to sharpen, so for awhile I thought it was actually diamond edged like some tools I've used in the past.
Having mastered this, I no longer need to shave. I just plane my face....
I planed off a piece of my hand once, made a human version of a potato chip with the base of my thumb, lol.
@@atomicwinter31 no
@@pignewton9840 i didnt even have any adrenaline when it happened, i just felt a chip peel off, looked at my hand, and there was just blood pouring out.
@@atomicwinter31 no just no
Do NOT try this on your balls.
I absolutely love what you do bud!! I literally went from having no clue how to sharpen chisels and planer irons to basically using my planer iron as a mirror and shaving my face with my chissel. You literally make learning new skills effortless and super easy to understand and follow. Between binge watching tutorials from Matt Eslea and yourself, I really feel like in a few years time I will be close your level of expertise!! Sincerely from the bottom of my heart I really appreciate what you do pal!! Keep up the greatness!!
I really appreciate the kind words bud
checking in a few years later, any progress?
Ha ha ha! Funny. Chisel shaving, new concept. You can save a lot on razors now.
fyi CHISEL, not CHISSEL.
Jonathon, I've been an educator at the university level for more than 35 years. Your presentation/teaching style exemplifies among the best that I've seen in all my career. Your teaching is clear, easy to follow, and quite thorough. Bravo to you and your channel. I can see why you have over 475K subscribers. Keep doing what you do so well!
First time woodworker, and got a great result from this method!
A great video! Superbly explained and with crystal clear visuals. So deeply appreciate this. Thank you, Jonathan! 🙏
A huge thank you too, for NO MUSIC!!! What joy. I needed to hear the sharpening sounds too, that was educational.🥰❤
Best sharping video I’ve seen on UA-cam hands down
Thank you for this! Wife walked in during a close up and wanted to know why I'm getting sharpening advice from Patton Oswald.
He the smartest tool in that shed!!
Jon you are such an enjoyable person to watch/listen to......thanks for always sharing
I inherited a set of really nice hand planes and now I know how to keep them sharp, thank you!
Holy cow am I grateful I can freehand sharpen
This works, sharpened 6 planes yesterday, thank you.
My old man, who was a boat builder said, "If you can shave your arm with the blade, it's sharp enough." Also, if there are no dings in it, stropping the blade often keeps it fresh.
I bought a cheap horrible genetic branded no.4 a few years back when getting into working on the house and woodworking. Put me off hand planes. But then one day I came across a couple of old Stanley's now I've got a small collection. Sharpening then right was such a big part of the enjoyment of using them.
Wow, I’ve never put a micro-bevel on the back of a plane iron before. I’ve always tried to keep the back mirror bright and flat. Will give this a go.
Thank you Matt- love your quality tools and enthusiasm. I thought I knew about sharpening but ended up watching your video several times.
Thank you!
Great demonstration !
Good sharpening is not about good luck. It is about the right tools & know-how.
Jonathan Katz-Moses : THANK YOU SIR FOR YOUR TIME AND SHARING YOUR TALENTS .
I'm a fan of Matt Estlea and by you mentioning him positively in your video talks a lot about your great ethics my friend, thanks for your great video and I'm happily subscribing to your channel
wow thats wicked sharp. i was just gonna hit ut with the bench grinder 😅thanks for sharing !!
Some people have to climb a mountain & speak to a wise man to make sense of this world, I just need to watch tools being cared for and I find inner peace. Cheers from a shed in England. (Well I'm not a shed, that would be really weird, but you know)
here in my shed, sharpening my lovely tools..... its a sad story...
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Very helpful. Thank you for sharing.
Learned a lot of things I didn't know I didn't know.
I learned, I learned that I learned a lot
Thank you, I appreciate your valuable information
Great video. I'm restoring a 1920s Stanley #3 and this def just answered alot of questions I had about sharpening and how it works
That upside down writing just earned you a subscriber! Thank you sir!
I learned a lot thank you.
Excellent video Jonathan. I was wondering how sharp the blade would be before the strop? Does the strop really give the edge the best sharpness?
Thank you
Hi Jonathan, great video. I cant seem to achieve anywhere near this with a double sided oil stone. I must be doing something wrong lol! I will keep trying though
I've been doing it all wrong. Thanks for the lesson
Excellent
Thanks
Autentic work wonderfull good job🙋👍
I enjoy to sharpen my tools and take my time to do it. In the beginning I spent a lot of time to restore the blades of old tools, later I spent a lot of time to correct my mistakes, because the stones I used weren’t flat. So keep your stones flat and enjoy the process of sharpening. First improve your results than the speed.
I did the same... ahahahahahah ;-)
Thanks. Now i can make an old plane work again.
Something I did not see you do on the video but I figure you do it anyway. When you wipe off the blade between grits wipe off the roller, too. Just as you can transfer larger pieces of grit from the coarse stones to the finer stones via the blade you can transfer even more on the roller. Second point is locking your wrists. I lock them against my stomach and strop the blade while moving my entire body sideways. Of course the strop is oriented sideways, also.
Hi!
I really like your videos, because your tips are really simple.
Also I like that your videos are 4k quality, so that we can really see all the details and thats very important for me.
Cheers from Slovenija.
Very educational
Do you push the iron down on the stone while I using it away from you or pulling it back towards you? Thanknyou.
Wow. I so regret taking my brand new plane and attacking my 'scraping on my kitchen floor', door now. I guess it gives me the chance to practice my ninja blade sharpening technique. Just getting into working with wood. You make me realise how far there is to go. Great vid, mate.
Awesome, thanks
Incredibly useful video
I'll be honest mine is not as beautiful especially without guide, and I still stuggle to set up the hand planer. BUT I progressed a lot in a short time thanks to this channel 😄
I am having a plane blade with carbide tip. Having tough time to put it for first use. Only diamond stones are able to remove material from the plane. I don’t yet have whetstones higher than 170 grit. I will be getting 400 and 1000 grit diamond whetstones which may help to get better finish than now. But I seriously doubt if I will be able to successfully strop this carbide tip plane. I would really appreciate a guidance on carbide tipped plane.
Fantastic--super clear. All the stuff I sort of knew, but didn't really. Thx much!!
Thank you. Fantastic video. I bought waterstones but haven't had the confidence to get them out and have a go. Now I do :)
If you are sharpening routinely, how do you store your stones? My understanding is that storing whetstones in water long term isn't great for them. But, I find myself not good at timing my sharpening needs and knowing when to fill the bin with water to start the soak.
Great video, thank you for sharing
I'd like to ask, can I use a sharpening stone from Harbor Freight? It's the price range I need. Will it suffice?
90 seconds…hell yeah!😂😂😂
Great video thank for sharing.
Finally got scary sharp thanks to this video - BTW, you link for the polishing compound is the same as the link for the stones.
That Veritas jig must be the most uncomfortable and cumbersome one out there. Their parallel jaw offering is way better, more so than the LN if I may say so. I've tried every method of sharpening under the sun and always gone back to a jig for repeatability and precision. Just don't push it forward (rounds the edge) or strop (rounds the edge). Start on diamond stone(s) and finish on a fine water stone with a small micro bevel up another couple of degrees. Keep the iron dead flat or use the Charlesworth ruler trick. Job done.
Always absolutely blown away by the detail you show in your how to vids. Great tips here.
hey love your video, at the 8:27 you said about checking that it's still square, if it's not how and what would be the best way to square it off again before you carry on sharpening?
I don't even own an plane, only came here because I find this do therapeutic 😌
Hi there great video. I am about to buy some water stones to sharpen my block stanley no 4 plane. What stone grades did you say use for this purpose? Thank you in advance, Chris
One thing I learned from Paul Sellers is to be sure I don't lift up on the back end of the blade throughout the strop stroke.
Great advice
Why not?
@@RQFLS because not maintaining the angle while stropping can dull the edge that we worked so hard for. Even if on a minuscule level.
@@RQFLS edited the original content to clarify a little more.
Very true. For me I find the pressure JKM is using is more than needed. Maybe it’s the strop, or leather, as I make my strops.
Whats the strawp for? Or does
do ou have a link to the veratas jig?
Nice demonstration. Thanks Jonathan.
For me as a metal person it is very interesting to see these planes. Honestly I have never seen a "standard" low angle plane" before. I did not even know they existed. I actually never held a plane made from steel in my hands. It really seems as if german carpentership is somewhat behind in that field. All I am used to is those nasty wooden planes that no one expect a zen master can set up right.
My great grandfather and grandfather both were farmers and part time black smith. My father remember that at home there was about 30 different home made plane, every one for different job. Now one router bit = one plane.
A woodworker using metal planes instead of wooden shows a basic distrust in his own trade. Those inverted blade low angle planes need a tight opening and are a pain if you try to plane unfinished wood.
Please tell me the brand of the wet stone . Having trouble finding a similar one here in Australia. Great tutorial.
So I’m knew to all this and I have a kobalt trimming plane. All I’m doing is shaving some small 1 in branches to make them have a little bit of a flat side. Anyways I can’t seem to get this thing set right and I’m not real sure how to sharpen it. Would I sharpen it like one in this video.
Happy Passover from Chicago ❤️
Mazel!
Legend has it that Jonathon Katz-Moses's tools are so scared of losing social media feuds that the come alive like they're in Toy Story and sharpen themselves...
Hahaha yep
A sharp tutorial haha thanks Katz.
Very punny
@@katzmosestools thanks for noticing Junior ;0)
Excellent
Thank you for sharing
Is this for minor repair because my blades need to at least start at 220 grit due to chips in the steal. Usually this is from me planning only two sides of a board. Watching everyone makes me feel I need better blades.
Sir my question is my blade is easy gone the sharp what kind of blade are you using it my is stanley 2" wide but easy remove the sharpness what can do
Hullo young man. Now when I watched the first video I gained super knowledge to hone (get it) my skills especially using the jig you have. I was the other type. Now I said at the time that the cost of all the sharpening equipment that you were using was for us in the UK was very expensive. now I am not one to repeat myself, I say repeat myself, but are you not repeating yourself. Read this out in your voice.
"Just the tip..." "GENTLEMEN....." There. Fixed it.
Just the tip.... but I lied.
Great video.
"I use my angle grinder..."
Said every woodworking psychopath out there
it gets through the rusty bits quicker
I just got an old Stanley no 2 wood plane that’s in really good shape but I am still soaking it in rust remover and getting everything in order before I use it
Thoughts on using abrasive sheets on float glass such as the scary sharp technique from Matthew Platt at Workshop Heaven?
Whatever works but sandpaper wears pretty quickly when wet and without moisture it would get clogged quickly
Works great. Use mylar backed abrasive such as used for polishing the ends of fiber optic cable. The abrasive lasts a long time, and using a little water keeps it clear. Use diamond stones for coarse work. My sheet abrasives start at 25um and go down to 0.3um, no stropping required.
That last step doing the back; could stropping take care of that burr the same way?
I would LOVE some input on a situation: A great-grandfather had an oddly shaped grindstone that I think is quite emotional to me, but should I let someone cut it so I can sharpen my kitchen knifes on it? It's shaped like a stone-age rough sledgehammer without a hole, but he sharpened his blades on one half of the curved nside. An architect and furniture carpenter, working his planes to the core. I have a stack of different exotic wood pieces from the 1800s (his dad's), a pristine teak leveller with brass adjustable labelles, a hand-saw with beautiful carved teak handle, and tools and nick-nacks and so-forths. But that grindstone speaks to me, it's hold so much history. But leave it be, or let someone cut it straight? I could not be more torn between the options. It's so much used It would not wonder me if it was from the early 1700s. I've seen an old tool or two in my life.
I know how to sharpen knives pretty well, I've done it by hand for 20 years at work and at home. I'm very confident in it, I would never do this man wrong. I'm doing 32.5 degrees at P2000 now. (Guess which line of family who thaught me that when I was 11 years old 🙂). I'm second to last in line for these things, I'll tell my niece about the significance when she grows up. Cut, or no cut?
I think i should get my friend at the head stone mason to cut it lenghtwise, p1000 on one side, maybe p2200 on the other one. So all the sharpening through history is still there, and I'll give it all to my niece whens she's established.
What is the strop doing to the iron exactly?
Thanks for the videos. Is it possible to use a blade bevel-down on a low-plane block? So as to get a cutting angle of only 12 degrees? I get that you'd have to grind the blade down, so maybe that would weaken it too much?
I just cannot sharpen my plane blade. Do I need something more than 1000/3000 grit, or should that get it to a decent edge? There’s almost no progress to show for 100+ strokes on each grit. There is a polished bevel now, but when I test it, it’s barely sharp. Help!
You should watch the sharpening test we published earlier this year. It’s really good and answers all these questions
Thanks!@@katzmosestools
You make it look so easy but it’s not for a beginner, too complicated
Would you feather the edges on a block plane as well?
Sure.
All planes except maybe some specialty ones
Jonathan Katz-Moses thanks
Am I to understand that on a low angle plane you would put a primary bevel of 20 and a micro of 25?
I'd like to see how that blade does on pine endgrain.
Why is that? I’m a newb and I just got my first hand plane. Pine is pretty soft no?
@@assnapkined9295 It is, and that's the issue. It will crush before it cuts if the iron isn't sharp enough.
Thanks--v. helpful. Assuming that no one has unlimited fund$, what grit stones should a beginner start with? I.e., if you can afford only two, what should they be? And what should be third? fourth? (&c.). Thanks again!
I saw rob cosman do the same back bevel. He calls it the will walker ruler trick..... guy must be good 😝
No he doesn't! He calls it correctly the David Charlesworth ruler trick 😃
Robert Amsbury shoosh! 😉😝
The David Charlesworth ruler trick :)
Give credit where it is due!
F..... s...... took me 3 days to get that ( just started woodworking) ,thanks for video all perfect now! Tip: if u starting with not high quality tools check for accuracy ,coz my jig for sharpening probably randomly placed 30 degrees on scale! Get yourself a good one!
I've been reluctant to buy a decent hand plane other than a $10 one from the big box store. I can't afford to epically mess up during the sharpening process. But your videos lately have been very educational in that area. Not ready to pull the trigger yet but I'm getting there. :) Thanks for all your help.
my hand plane is like stuttering over a wood 2x4 gouging the wood. ive no experience with hand planers and found it in a barn and cleaned off its rust. it seemed pretty sharp as it can cut the sides of the 2x4 but going along the widthier part of the 2x4, it cant shave wood. is it not sharp enough or something? my hand plane is a stanley almost exactly like the old school one youre using except the frog is adjustable by two screws to move it forward or backward
Sounds like you need to plane the other way (grain direction) and/or sharpen it (most likely). Also hardwood is much easier to plane than soft wood.
@@katzmosestools wow thanks for the response! (and quick at that!). I will give sharpening a go and also will try it on hard wood after. yea it was a douglas fir 2x4 i think. im trying to make bows and arrows lool
Another thing you might check is to see if the plane is flat. Use a straight edge on the bottom of the plane. If you see any light along the edge, you'll have to flatten the bottom. Use a piece of tempered glass and some lapping compound and a bit of elbow grease. Work it until you have a clean, smooth bottom. Then wipe on just a little polish. When complete, it will glide over the wood with very little effort.
@@carlbruschnigjr1757 ok thank you!
Soviless99 use regular float glass; it’s flatter! Tempered glass warps during the tempering process.
That video delivered only and exactly what I wanted to see and info I was looking for, edited nicely, and to the point (couldn't avoid that pun, sorry). Well done. Gonna go sharpen with this technique rather than read the idiot commenters who disagree with this. Go do something.
Some of the links (water stones, polishing compound, and leather strop) are either not working or the item is “unavailable.” Do you have some alternative links or alternative item suggestions for those?
Woodcraft.com
After almost 30 years as a turner, I am getting into this phase of woodworking. Little to no experience with water stones. I did find out that DMT now makes 4000 and 8000 grit lapping plates. Waiting for them to arrive, but I won't have to mess with the water bath part, which is rather messy.... Funny thing about the stropping compounds. They are all different, and color has nothing to do with grit. ARGH!!!! Going with another DMT product, their polishing pastes, up to 16000 grit or 1 micron.
I was thinking wouldn’t a magnetic honing guide be much easier to use and work well? Maybe a product you could work your Katz Magic
You'd be surprised how many plane owners install the blade upside down after 'sharpening'. It works better if it's installed as designed.
So many degrees! 98 degrees was my fav pop band...who is with me!?
heck yeah :)
Mr Harrison says hello, Jonathan Katz-Moses.
I just wore out the end of my skin on my pointer finger but the results Kick-Ass