After preparing your plane it’s time to sharpen the blade. Watch my how to sharpen a plane blade in 32 seconds video here: ua-cam.com/video/okLIEoz00v0/v-deo.html
Just got my new Wood River 5 1/2 day before yesterday. Beautiful!! Except for the quarter to half dollar size area of serious rust on the right side of it. :( Not happy. I called Woodcraft. It took all of about ONE minute for them to say they would send me a new one ASAP. No recording or choosing this number or that one. A real person answered the phone, very nice lady, looked up my order, said a new one would be shipped immediately, and that I would get a email in 24 to 48 hours with a return label to send the old one back. Just like clockwork that happened. I received an email from UPS, with a tracking number, saying the new one was en route. I'm in shock!!! I haven't experienced customer service like that in .......sheesh.....a long time. Consider me a fan of Wood Craft!!!!
I wanted a Lie-Nielsen but couldn’t justify it w/my budget so I bought a WoodRiver #6. It’s well made. Not an LN but for the price difference (savings) I’m pleased. Got the WR on sale, 257 USD delivered.
After 10 years of woodworking I finally purchased this wood river. I followed robs advice out of the package and it totally changed the way I wood work. I know some people love Stanley but please save your money and follow this advice. It’s worth the money and time.
Unheated, dank workshop expert here. Simply keeping precision and edged tools free of dust and storing them in a simple cabinet cabinet of drawers makes a big difference. If it’s raining out, I won’t leave a plane or calipers on the bench over night. Chisels I sharpen enough and have enough of a patina that it doesn’t matter. Gouges, though, I want to protect that inner flute so they always go away.
Of course, that goes for Western Oregon. If you’re in Michigan or Florida you need to watch out in the summer. For us, it’s the winter. If you’re in Brazil, good luck.
This video has helped me finally resolve my planing problems - no tearout with or without the grain in soft and hardwood...and no more tearing out my hair wondering why my neither a cheap or an expensive handplane seems to work for me!! Thanks for all the great videos, Rob.
Your videos are always excellent! While I’ve been a serious woodworking hobbiest for over 40 years, it is not uncommon for me to learn something watching you. One thought: you put a heck of a lot of work into the plane before you checked the flatness of the sole. At about 23:46 into the vid, you stated that if the sole did not pass the flatness check, you should return the plane. Wouldn’t that be the FIRST thing to check? 😁 Also, I have lapped soles very flat on diamond plates. That is an option too…. A VERY time consuming one, but still an option. Lastly, it would be great if you had discussed setting the gap between the blade and the front of the mouth. Keep up the great work! As a retired USN vet with over 30 years of service, I very highly commend your support of the troops from both our countries!!! Bravo!!!
Just wow. You are so concise and quick, yet easy to follow. Having your UA-cam videos has given me a new confidence that I can get into handtool woodworking.
You motivated me to buy a (Luban) jack plane and use a shooting board. Unfortunately the sides aren't square. It's about 0,3 mm (12/1000 inch) of on the max. Did you make a video teaching us to solve that problem? I couldn't find it.
Thanks Rob, I'm 58 with zero woodworking experience and after building a roubo split top bench from UA-cam guidance I needed to start with the hand tools, today I copied your low angle 62 plane setup, my new one is quangsheng so very similar, I got out the whetstones and within 30 minutes was cutting see thru full width beech shavings, I'm thrilled and grateful for your advice
I just tuned up my new Woodriver 5 1/2. The lever cap was way out of flat. I had to go at it with a file for about twenty minutes and then finish it on the 300 diamond stone. The blade was the second worst option: twisted. I spent quite a while on the 1000 diamond. Probably should have used the 300 side to get it closer. Ended up with about 5/16 polished on one side to get 3/32 on the other. The chip breaker was high on both ends but comparatively easy to flatten in a few minutes. All the rest was easy. Between the blade and the lever cap perhaps I should have sent it back and rolled the dice on a new one. But it’s done now. And a good learning experience. This was probably about the worst it could be without it being so bad as to just return it. It’s always useful to learn in the fire since it only gets easier from there.
I’ve used this great info for a couple of new bench planes (a Lie-Nielsen #4 and a WoodRiver #6) as well as three vintage Stanleys. Wonderful info! Thank you.
Tool prep and maintenance is the key of a master craftsmen and also the difficult part to master. The actual craft seems to be side effect, though it sounds like undermining the craft itself.
Thanks Rob! I really appreciate how your videos show the whole process in detail without hand waving or cutting corners. They make for a timeless reference with most questions already anticipated and addressed.
Rob, love your videos. I live near the coast and surface rust is an issue on tools. If one does not mind having their tools secreted away, placing a container of muscle rub with menthol in the cabinet will keep your tools rust free. Just to assure there is no "thaw-the-chicken" issue here, remove the cap from the menthol source.
Just picked up a new woodriver 51/2 today couldn't be more excited, took your advice for my first plane. Ill spend some time getting it set up and get to work with it. Thanks for doing what you do.
I love my WR 5 1/2, and I never would have considered WR until I saw that Rob used it in his own shop. I had never used a hand plane before, but after watching his videos I have it set up so that it can take a one thou shaving. It turned out to be a wonderful plane, and I since have purchased two other WR planes -the low angle block plane and the medium shoulder plane. I also installed the Adjustar on the 5 1/2 which is a great improvement. I have learned a ton this past year from Rob’s videos.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking how about a box joint video? I made a jig that works on the table saw with a sled but I would like to try them with a back saw so I can use my cosman fret saw. Is this even possible? Thanks! John
Merry Christmas Rob, Rob's family and all the people who support his works and especially those who support the Purple Heart Foundation. Rob, for me you've had a heck of a year. You've taken me from being a wood butcher to making furniture that people want in their house. I've started a process towards making items for your charity and really hope I can contribute early in the new year. Sincerely, thank you.
Just unpacked my Stanley jackplane. Had to follow your helpful tutorial - ("the Stanley products my grandad had was far superior to the shonky crap they sell today, so the remedial work was necessary). Many thanks
Waiting for the mail to come to get my first ever plane. I went with a Stanley Sweetheart 62 as a happy medium between price and quality. I am really excited and nervous. I hope the sole is flat and I don't have to deal with returns. I'm also nervous about my first ever time trying to sharpen a blade, but Rob has lots of good videos that I think will really help. Cheers, and thanks for all the info, Rob.
I know this is an old comment but to anyone else who can relate, don’t be worried about sharpening. Whether it’s the plane edge or a chisels secondary and tertiary bevels you’re only ever sharpening a small amount of metal. If you don’t get it right you can just do it again. It’s not that difficult to get a cutting edge even if it’s not up to Cosman standards. Over time you’ll get better and better. Allow it to be fun, don’t stress. Woodworking should be a source of peace not negativity. You have to get to the point where you enjoy the process, not simply because you want a coffee table.
Another incredible video. So much detail and such minor details to make the difference. Cant wait to do this to my plane. Also, tha ks you so much for helping veternas.
Hi Rob. I bought this exact plane based on a few viewings of this video. I did exactly what you’ve done here. Overall, I’m very satisfied with the performance of this plane. I do run into a problem I haven’t been able to figure out. Every now and then, the adjustment knob seems to get tight when advancing the iron. This usually happens after I remove it to sharpen it.
Great video, I have used my new WR 5 1/2 for about a month and love working with it, I followed one of your earlier video's on this subject to tune up the plane, it works great but I need more practice sharpening.
Absolutely mesmerized by the shavings you get Rob! I got my WR 5.5 and it's still in the box sitting with my German planes. Plan on getting it set up to your video specs after the 1st. I got one more turning gift (threaded trick hidden box) to get done tomorrow and gonna take a break from the shop for a couple weeks . Merry Christmas to you all!
Great video as always. So much useful information, and explained clearly, simply, and plainly (maybe I should say "planely"). Thank you for all you do, and keep it coming!
Just tested mine and can't even fit the narrowest shim! Not even the .0015 thousandths shim! I was expecting it to be close, but that's crazy good. Wood River for the win!
@@scott8351 I have no direct evidence of this, but based on the videos I’ve seen, the Quangsheng 5 1/2 looks identical to the WoodRiver 5 1/2, except for the lever cap not having a logo on the Quangsheng. My suspicion is that they’re the same plane, branding aside.
Thanks again Rob for an educational video on hand plane setup. I am now going to check the setup of my woodriver planes after watching this video. Merry Christmas.
While I love you Rob, and have learned a ton from you. And I should also note, I only have one Woodriver hand plane (i.e. Low Angle Block Plane) so maybe all this filing work is necessary on them? My plane collection primarily consists of Lie Nielson, Veritas and Bridge City and I've never needed to do any filing anywhere on any of my planes, and they all have worked beautifully for years. Even my Woodriver has only had a secondary bevel put on the iron and it performs wonderfully. You are obviously on another level than most of us, and I would just caution others on taking a file to expensive, precision tools that shouldn't need it. Not to mention the very real risk for ruining the tool. Just my two cents - love your content and knowledge!
I would caution anyone who can’t be trusted to use a file to keep their hands away from any planes unless an adult is in the shop supervising them. And who says that any plane “shouldn’t” need fine tuning? What do they base that opinion on? The naive and reprehensible belief that if one has the money to buy the best tools they ought to be able to skip learning the basics of evaluating their condition and optimizing them and maintaining them for use as a craftsman? And what kind of trust-fund baby buys a Lie Nielsen hand plane before he’s even acquired the skills necessary to use a $7 mill file? That’s like giving a kid a Lamborghini for his 16th birthday before he’s even learned how to check the oil, change a tire or parallel park! And I know what you’re thinking: “We’re rich! He can just pay the valet to park it and call the dealership to send someone out with a new tire when necessary. We paid for the extended warranty too, so if he runs it out of oil we ‘shouldn’t have to’ worry about anything.” But with that mindset why even bother having woodworking tools at all? Just buy the finest furniture available in Beverly Hills and leave all that work to the working class? Those poor guys have to pay their dues with years of apprenticeship and blood and sweat. They can’t just pull out their American Express card and buy the status of a highly skilled and experienced craftsman.
A lot of important details in one video that are not easy to find elsewhere. Thank you. One thing, the sole is sometimes not flat, even on new high quality planes like Lie Nielsen or Veritas. So it is worth to check. How would you flatten the sole? Wouldn’t the plane run smoother with a high polished sole?
No need to polish the sole. If you get it brand new and its not within tolerance take it back. If howeverits beyond retrhn adhrere some 150,180 and 200 snad paper to a knowe flat surface (MDF or table saw for example) then with even pressure sand the bottom flat through the different grits
A Lie Nielson, Veritas or Woodriver (Woodriver maybe) should never need their soles flattened out of the box. If the sole isn't perfectly flat, you are well with your rights to send it back - and you should!
Jonathan Rutherford , in Germany I am lucky enough to have Lie Nielsen and Veritas planes. Nowadays it is almost impossible to buy new ones in Europe, so I won’t send them back. I will polish them to flatness.
A lot of this will apply for me while restoring my dad's old no. 5 and 5 1/2 planes I've had sitting in my shop for decades. Do you have any videos on doing that?
Well, except for the return it to the store part, I imagine it is pretty much the same, basically. If the bottom is out of flat, spray adhesive some 120-220 grit sand paper to a true flat surface (glass, marble/granite, tablesaw bed, etc...) and make them flat again, then up to 400 grit if you wish, then file the edges, toe, and heal. If Stanley, then you have frog screws instead of pins, and a press-formed chip-breaker instead of one that resembles another iron. There are many channels out there with restoration videos, and some go as far as driving out retaining pins and replacing the Japanning (black paint like finish) as well. Have fun with it, and remember to oil or wax any metal that is not painted if your shop is not 100% climate controlled.
Thanks For another informative video Professor Cos. In Michigan humidity changes alot, I use charcoal briquettes in buckets around my shop, about 600 sq. ft. Also use those little packs of silica that come in shoe boxes, clothing and the like, in my tool cabinets. Nor rust on anything in the past 20 yrs. Merry Xmas to you and yours Sir. Semper Fi.
Omg brilliant, did not know about charcoal briquettes, thank you. Any suggestions how to protect machinery, like table saw and sliding compund mitre saw? Table saw not here yet but I dont want to ruin it when it arrives, like mitre saw, 2 sliders on it are getting surface rust on exposed part after a year and wd40 aint helping. I will insulate the roof next spring but I am not sure that alone will be a complete solution.
@@bluewanderer9903 Since I have used charcoal around my shop there hasn't been any rust on my equipment. Few times during the year I will clean all machinery and use paste wax on surfaces. Good Luck
Great tips as always Rob. For the life of me, I still can’t get shavings like you get. I do the setup you outline here, and only difference is I used the Veritas jig to sharpen up to 6k and then some 10k 3M stuff. And after all that still doesn’t plane like yours does here
There is a big difference between 10K and 16 K, Th ejig wont make a difference in edge just a little slowerthan free hand. So my guess is it's stopping at 10K and likely a little bit technique
Could be the highest grit stone you are using, could be the angle you are getting with the jig vs Rob's hand sharpening, could be the chip-breaker clearence back from the iron's edge, or how heavy of a cut you are trying to take, or the opening of the mouth of your plane. Maybe the geometry of the edge of your iron doesn't have any camber/curve with the jig. Are you hitting the shaving straight on or with the plane slightly canted/angled to the side? Try pulling the blade all the way in, like Rob did in this video, and only advancing it just a partial hair at a time. Keep practicing. Sooner or later, something will fall into place. Pay attention to the feel and sounds of what is going on, both when sharpening and when planing. When it is just right, try to repeat those feels and sounds.
Merry ChristmasRob. I am about to go pick up my first wood river plane today. Thank you sir for this valuable info!! Thank you a million times over.💯💯👏
I plan to purchase a 5 1/2 Jack plane this year. Your video is very helpful in making my decision. The Wood River is on the list, but since I'm going to put $300 into a lifetime purchase I'm why not go for the Lie Nielsen. How does the Lie Nielsen stack up to the Wood River? Thanks again for your Channel.
Outstanding video! And on a good quality, new plane. I shudder to think what I might find on my inherited planes. Thanks for the video! And have a safe and happy holiday.
Would you please tell me what screwdrivers you use on the WR 5 1/2 plane? I need some new screwdrivers and want to make sure I don't mar the brass screws. Thanks
Merry Christmas Rob. Been watching and learning from your videos off and on for years. One of the first was were you were showing the process for making your dovetail saws in an older lower ceilinged shop. This video reminds me I have the same plane in nearly new condition (still in plastic in the box) that was given to me a couple years ago. Problem is the blade is pretty badly nicked and needs reground before I can do anything-been putting it off. I might go ahead and start the work on the body while I'm waiting for a glue up tomorrow. I didn't know there was that much that needed to be done before using a new one-all my planes are either hand me downs or I've purchased used and worked well after sharpening. Thanks for the tutorial!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'd like to see more on the wood hinges. They intrigue me and I'd like to work them into a project that ordinarily would use a metal hinge.
So, instead of spending the time to flatten the sole, just return the plane? Then why not test that first, before doing all of that other work? Seems like if that is a major failing point, then that should be the first test, before you do anything else. Nice run through of all the other new plane set up procedures though, thanks. P.S. Will they take it back after you filed the mouth and sole edges?
I’ve done up 100’s of these and maybe close to 1000. Haven’t had a sole out of flat (within working tolerance) yet so I assume it is good. They will take it back regardless.
So how do you fix when your only picking up the 2 ends on a sub .001 shaving. Ive done these things to my LN 6 and 7 and when sharpening the blade i even tried feathering the edges like youve suggested in videos. Still no luck
Hi Rob maybe I missed it, but I don't recall you discussing exactly how to position/adjust the frog. I have a Stanley G12-204 plane, and the frog has slots that allow the frog position to be adjusted front-to-back. But what is the correct position?
Great explanation and tutorial for the beginner. Thank you Rob. If I just purchased a new 1,000/250 stone. Would that be similar to 1000/300 or should I consider a 1,000/300?
Not Rob, but there isn’t anything magical about the number 300 (or 1,000, or 16,000) for the grit. His 30-second sharpening method doesn’t even use that side of the stone.
I just watched this video, great refresher course for all woodworkers. I notice you use some kind of wax stick on the plane's sole. I've always used Johnson's paste wax. Any thoughts on this and what is that wax? Thanks
Bit late to this, but good video detailing what you need to do to most new planes, I'd guess. ON that "I'd guess" thing, I'm wondering, if this was a Lie Neilson (about 40% more expensive), would you need to still go through as much prep and is that extra 40% really worth it for maybe tighter tolerances in fit and machining if you know that you'll have the plane for the rest of your life?
Rob does this prep to all planes including Lie Nielsen. People in the comments will tell you that you don’t have to do this with LN but you also don’t have to do it with WoodRiver. It depends how picky you are. Some people upgrade their cars. Most people don’t. Is LN going to have better tolerances? Probably. Does that mean it will work like a Cosman tuned WoodRiver right out of the box? No. Will it be easier to tune up? Perhaps but there is still individual variance in each tool maybe less variance the more money you spend. Is it worth an extra $125? Probably makes no difference over the course of your life. Just don’t make the mistake of thinking the LN is perfect out of the box, or that the WoodRiver is unusable out of the box. Neither is correct. Both are useable out of the box and both need work to get to Cosman standards.
What happens if your adjuster nut comes off and won't go back on? Edit: I finally looked at the threads and realized they were lefty tighty not righty tighty.
Hi Rob, thanks for the video. I set up my WoodRiver 5 1/2 as you showed. After a few weeks of use I have noticed that the lever cap creeps back when I retract the blade. I have set the screw relatively loose, super tight, and everything in between, but it continues to creep. A quick google search showed several other people have had the same issue, but I haven’t found a solution. What do you recommend?
Thanks Rob. I bought my first new plane back in October which seems like a long time ago now. I got a woodriver #6 which I really enjoy. I was feeling good about myself up until you started flattening the lever cap and chip breaker. I will have to do that tomorrow. But it must be fairly close because it does perform well as long as I keep the blade sharp. Thanks for the video training and encouragement!
As Rob says in the video, this "setup"-procedure turns out the last 2 perCent of the plane's performance. I think the procedure helps as well to make the plane work stabile and keeping the settings even better (longer time). For example the blade naturally "likes" the chip-breaker to be definitlely straight at its edge. And removing the sharp edges on the body - improves the handling sigificantly: Maybe just that difference makes more then 2% improving! I am waiting for delivery of my WR 51/2 (to germany, OMG) and am looking foward to these steps of setup. Until now i am only used to handle classical wooden planes.
I have set up my planes like this from earlier videos. I'm assuming I still don't have sharpening down really well. I'm planing some poplar for a painted cabinet, frame and panel. I can get them flat, but looking at a raking light, the light reflections shows marks on the board, that I can't really feel (but I have some neuropathy, so...). I think it's either something in the blade I'm not feeling when sharpening or burrs/rough edges of the sole. But I've re-filed those. I'm just not sure how to get the polished raking like without the marks. Closest I get is with my 4 1/2 barely taking anything off - almost dust, but even then I'll see something. Is that normal, something in technique, other? As always - great instruction, just wish I had the in-person to course correct my results. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and safety for you and your family!
Six of one, half a dozen of the other. Depends on who you ask, and what finishing steps and final finish you plan to use. Also, what type of oils or waxes you use. Rob uses that wax stick and he has 40 years experience, but Paul Sellers uses some type of oil-soaked rag in a can to wipe across his planes and saws, and he has been woodworking for over 50 years, so, it is a matter of opinion and personal experience, I suppose. Also, if one or the other will interfere with your chosen oil, wax, polyurethane, varnish, or whatever finish you decide to use. If you are going straight off the plane or sanding before the finish...etc....
Hi Rob. i have been cleaning up an old plane i was given. The grip will twist left and right. There is a small bump on the plane body that fits into a hole on the underside of the grip. I assume wear over many years has caused it to enlarge. Should this be a tight fit? Many thanks
After preparing your plane it’s time to sharpen the blade. Watch my how to sharpen a plane blade in 32 seconds video here: ua-cam.com/video/okLIEoz00v0/v-deo.html
I was wondering if there are any other steps taken or modified for a low angle jack. I dont think there would be, but im very new to this world.
This has to be the most Canadian man on earth. A thick accent, good teacher, and wicked good at woodworking.
Just got my new Wood River 5 1/2 day before yesterday. Beautiful!! Except for the quarter to half dollar size area of serious rust on the right side of it. :( Not happy. I called Woodcraft. It took all of about ONE minute for them to say they would send me a new one ASAP. No recording or choosing this number or that one. A real person answered the phone, very nice lady, looked up my order, said a new one would be shipped immediately, and that I would get a email in 24 to 48 hours with a return label to send the old one back. Just like clockwork that happened. I received an email from UPS, with a tracking number, saying the new one was en route. I'm in shock!!! I haven't experienced customer service like that in .......sheesh.....a long time. Consider me a fan of Wood Craft!!!!
I wanted a Lie-Nielsen but couldn’t justify it w/my budget so I bought a WoodRiver #6. It’s well made. Not an LN but for the price difference (savings) I’m pleased. Got the WR on sale, 257 USD delivered.
After 10 years of woodworking I finally purchased this wood river. I followed robs advice out of the package and it totally changed the way I wood work. I know some people love Stanley but please save your money and follow this advice. It’s worth the money and time.
Unheated, dank workshop expert here. Simply keeping precision and edged tools free of dust and storing them in a simple cabinet cabinet of drawers makes a big difference. If it’s raining out, I won’t leave a plane or calipers on the bench over night. Chisels I sharpen enough and have enough of a patina that it doesn’t matter. Gouges, though, I want to protect that inner flute so they always go away.
Of course, that goes for Western Oregon. If you’re in Michigan or Florida you need to watch out in the summer. For us, it’s the winter. If you’re in Brazil, good luck.
Luther lives in rainy Seattle and has an unheated workshop and does the same
This video has helped me finally resolve my planing problems - no tearout with or without the grain in soft and hardwood...and no more tearing out my hair wondering why my neither a cheap or an expensive handplane seems to work for me!! Thanks for all the great videos, Rob.
Your videos are always excellent! While I’ve been a serious woodworking hobbiest for over 40 years, it is not uncommon for me to learn something watching you.
One thought: you put a heck of a lot of work into the plane before you checked the flatness of the sole. At about 23:46 into the vid, you stated that if the sole did not pass the flatness check, you should return the plane. Wouldn’t that be the FIRST thing to check? 😁
Also, I have lapped soles very flat on diamond plates. That is an option too…. A VERY time consuming one, but still an option.
Lastly, it would be great if you had discussed setting the gap between the blade and the front of the mouth.
Keep up the great work! As a retired USN vet with over 30 years of service, I very highly commend your support of the troops from both our countries!!! Bravo!!!
Just wow. You are so concise and quick, yet easy to follow. Having your UA-cam videos has given me a new confidence that I can get into handtool woodworking.
You motivated me to buy a (Luban) jack plane and use a shooting board. Unfortunately the sides aren't square. It's about 0,3 mm (12/1000 inch) of on the max.
Did you make a video teaching us to solve that problem? I couldn't find it.
Thanks Rob, I'm 58 with zero woodworking experience and after building a roubo split top bench from UA-cam guidance I needed to start with the hand tools, today I copied your low angle 62 plane setup, my new one is quangsheng so very similar, I got out the whetstones and within 30 minutes was cutting see thru full width beech shavings, I'm thrilled and grateful for your advice
Great job. I recommend watching our entire series on hand plane basics
I just tuned up my new Woodriver 5 1/2. The lever cap was way out of flat. I had to go at it with a file for about twenty minutes and then finish it on the 300 diamond stone.
The blade was the second worst option: twisted. I spent quite a while on the 1000 diamond. Probably should have used the 300 side to get it closer. Ended up with about 5/16 polished on one side to get 3/32 on the other.
The chip breaker was high on both ends but comparatively easy to flatten in a few minutes. All the rest was easy.
Between the blade and the lever cap perhaps I should have sent it back and rolled the dice on a new one. But it’s done now. And a good learning experience. This was probably about the worst it could be without it being so bad as to just return it.
It’s always useful to learn in the fire since it only gets easier from there.
Thanks. I thought I already knew how to do all of this, but I never thought of lapping the lever cap.
I’ve used this great info for a couple of new bench planes (a Lie-Nielsen #4 and a WoodRiver #6) as well as three vintage Stanleys. Wonderful info! Thank you.
Tool prep and maintenance is the key of a master craftsmen and also the difficult part to master. The actual craft seems to be side effect, though it sounds like undermining the craft itself.
I am always looking how to get the most out of the tool
Thanks Rob! I really appreciate how your videos show the whole process in detail without hand waving or cutting corners. They make for a timeless reference with most questions already anticipated and addressed.
Thats our intent, to stand out from the crowd also having a cameraman not just a camera on a tripod
Rob, love your videos. I live near the coast and surface rust is an issue on tools. If one does not mind having their tools secreted away, placing a container of muscle rub with menthol in the cabinet will keep your tools rust free. Just to assure there is no "thaw-the-chicken" issue here, remove the cap from the menthol source.
Just picked up a new woodriver 51/2 today couldn't be more excited, took your advice for my first plane. Ill spend some time getting it set up and get to work with it. Thanks for doing what you do.
I love my WR 5 1/2, and I never would have considered WR until I saw that Rob used it in his own shop. I had never used a hand plane before, but after watching his videos I have it set up so that it can take a one thou shaving. It turned out to be a wonderful plane, and I since have purchased two other WR planes -the low angle block plane and the medium shoulder plane. I also installed the Adjustar on the 5 1/2 which is a great improvement. I have learned a ton this past year from Rob’s videos.
keep watch and we will keep making them. What video do you want us to make next?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking how about a box joint video? I made a jig that works on the table saw with a sled but I would like to try them with a back saw so I can use my cosman fret saw. Is this even possible?
Thanks!
John
@@RobCosmanWoodworking maybe a video showing you making a wedged tenon.
Merry Christmas Rob, Rob's family and all the people who support his works and especially those who support the Purple Heart Foundation. Rob, for me you've had a heck of a year. You've taken me from being a wood butcher to making furniture that people want in their house. I've started a process towards making items for your charity and really hope I can contribute early in the new year. Sincerely, thank you.
What a great story, keep working and keep imrpoving. Luther is going to add a galery to the website soon
Excellent. Now to go bond with the planes I haven't checked in a while.
Happy bonding
I’m an amateur woodworker and after watching this and the other on how to sharpen a plane I think I’ll stick to sanding. Way over my pay grade!
Love watching his other u-tubes though. Great teacher!
This vid came in just in time.
I knew you needed it so I made it !!!!!!
Hi Rob, Great video, please can you tell me, on a Woodriver 5 1/2, what should the tolerance for flatness be across the sole?
Just unpacked my Stanley jackplane. Had to follow your helpful tutorial - ("the Stanley products my grandad had was far superior to the shonky crap they sell today, so the remedial work was necessary). Many thanks
You are the god of wood working 😂 vary happy to understand ❤
What a wonderful video. I now know how to get the chip breaker correctly prepared. This solves that problem. Thank you.
Waiting for the mail to come to get my first ever plane. I went with a Stanley Sweetheart 62 as a happy medium between price and quality. I am really excited and nervous. I hope the sole is flat and I don't have to deal with returns. I'm also nervous about my first ever time trying to sharpen a blade, but Rob has lots of good videos that I think will really help. Cheers, and thanks for all the info, Rob.
I know this is an old comment but to anyone else who can relate, don’t be worried about sharpening. Whether it’s the plane edge or a chisels secondary and tertiary bevels you’re only ever sharpening a small amount of metal. If you don’t get it right you can just do it again. It’s not that difficult to get a cutting edge even if it’s not up to Cosman standards. Over time you’ll get better and better. Allow it to be fun, don’t stress. Woodworking should be a source of peace not negativity. You have to get to the point where you enjoy the process, not simply because you want a coffee table.
Brilliant. Watched all your other plane videos and still learned something with this one. Excellent reinforcement. Quality stuff - thanks.
Many thanks!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all! 🎅🏻
Happy holidays!
Merry Christmas to all the Cosmans!
Thank you and looking forward to the new year with you!!
Another incredible video. So much detail and such minor details to make the difference. Cant wait to do this to my plane. Also, tha ks you so much for helping veternas.
Hi Rob. I bought this exact plane based on a few viewings of this video. I did exactly what you’ve done here. Overall, I’m very satisfied with the performance of this plane. I do run into a problem I haven’t been able to figure out. Every now and then, the adjustment knob seems to get tight when advancing the iron. This usually happens after I remove it to sharpen it.
Thanks Rob, that was really informative and helpful. I just bought a new 5 1/2 so this a huge help. Thanks again.
Now I know what I am doing tomorrow. Awesome video for new to planes people. Ty
Glad it was helpful!
Pura vida Rob thats true those planes become without the final set up in order to be ready to use
Been waiting for my 5 1/2 for 3 months! Great info, thanks for sharing.
Great video, I have used my new WR 5 1/2 for about a month and love working with it, I followed one of your earlier video's on this subject to tune up the plane, it works great but I need more practice sharpening.
Sharpening is the key skill
Thank you for sharing the knowledge.
The one thumbs down was probably thinking it was supposed to be a power planer! ONLY DECENT REASON LOL, TKS ROB!
Merry Christmas and a good New Year
Excellent, simply from a true pro👍🙏🏼,
Tks a lot . All the best
Nice refresher Rob, thanks. Can't wait for my Adjust Star to get here.
I just learned so much on this one tool
So well explained and learned a few things of how to get my planes closer to yours. Thank you and merry Christmas.
Absolutely mesmerized by the shavings you get Rob! I got my WR 5.5 and it's still in the box sitting with my German planes. Plan on getting it set up to your video specs after the 1st. I got one more turning gift (threaded trick hidden box) to get done tomorrow and gonna take a break from the shop for a couple weeks .
Merry Christmas to you all!
Great video as always. So much useful information, and explained clearly, simply, and plainly (maybe I should say "planely"). Thank you for all you do, and keep it coming!
yes that was planely said !!!! Merry Christmas
thank you now i will go buy 1
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas Rob, Family and PHP crew! Thanks for all you do !
I found this video extremely helpful. Thank you so much!
Thanks Rob, a Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Same to you....
Just tested mine and can't even fit the narrowest shim! Not even the .0015 thousandths shim! I was expecting it to be close, but that's crazy good. Wood River for the win!
Fantastic timing. Just received my Quangsheng 5 1/2 from Workshop Heaven and I need to go through this process. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Do the prep then watch my howto sharpen video and get your blade all set up
Can you get that plane in the US?
@@scott8351 I have no direct evidence of this, but based on the videos I’ve seen, the Quangsheng 5 1/2 looks identical to the WoodRiver 5 1/2, except for the lever cap not having a logo on the Quangsheng. My suspicion is that they’re the same plane, branding aside.
Sure wish you shipped the prepped Woodriver planes to the US. Thanks for the very informative videos. Have a great (& safe) New Year.
So do I!
Thank you Rob, Merry Christmas to you and yours, and Semper Fidelis my brother.
“smooth is fast, Fast is smooth”
Merry Christmas Chief,,,,,,Ooh-Rah
Thanks again Rob for an educational video on hand plane setup. I am now going to check the setup of my woodriver planes after watching this video. Merry Christmas.
Glad you found it useful
While I love you Rob, and have learned a ton from you. And I should also note, I only have one Woodriver hand plane (i.e. Low Angle Block Plane) so maybe all this filing work is necessary on them?
My plane collection primarily consists of Lie Nielson, Veritas and Bridge City and I've never needed to do any filing anywhere on any of my planes, and they all have worked beautifully for years. Even my Woodriver has only had a secondary bevel put on the iron and it performs wonderfully.
You are obviously on another level than most of us, and I would just caution others on taking a file to expensive, precision tools that shouldn't need it. Not to mention the very real risk for ruining the tool.
Just my two cents - love your content and knowledge!
I do this prep on all my planes
I question how mechanically unskilled a woodworker would have to be to FUBAR their plane putting a light chamfer on the edge with a mill file.
I would caution anyone who can’t be trusted to use a file to keep their hands away from any planes unless an adult is in the shop supervising them. And who says that any plane “shouldn’t” need fine tuning? What do they base that opinion on? The naive and reprehensible belief that if one has the money to buy the best tools they ought to be able to skip learning the basics of evaluating their condition and optimizing them and maintaining them for use as a craftsman? And what kind of trust-fund baby buys a Lie Nielsen hand plane before he’s even acquired the skills necessary to use a $7 mill file? That’s like giving a kid a Lamborghini for his 16th birthday before he’s even learned how to check the oil, change a tire or parallel park! And I know what you’re thinking: “We’re rich! He can just pay the valet to park it and call the dealership to send someone out with a new tire when necessary. We paid for the extended warranty too, so if he runs it out of oil we ‘shouldn’t have to’ worry about anything.” But with that mindset why even bother having woodworking tools at all? Just buy the finest furniture available in Beverly Hills and leave all that work to the working class? Those poor guys have to pay their dues with years of apprenticeship and blood and sweat. They can’t just pull out their American Express card and buy the status of a highly skilled and experienced craftsman.
A lot of important details in one video that are not easy to find elsewhere. Thank you.
One thing, the sole is sometimes not flat, even on new high quality planes like Lie Nielsen or Veritas. So it is worth to check.
How would you flatten the sole? Wouldn’t the plane run smoother with a high polished sole?
No need to polish the sole. If you get it brand new and its not within tolerance take it back. If howeverits beyond retrhn adhrere some 150,180 and 200 snad paper to a knowe flat surface (MDF or table saw for example) then with even pressure sand the bottom flat through the different grits
A Lie Nielson, Veritas or Woodriver (Woodriver maybe) should never need their soles flattened out of the box. If the sole isn't perfectly flat, you are well with your rights to send it back - and you should!
Jonathan Rutherford , in Germany I am lucky enough to have Lie Nielsen and Veritas planes. Nowadays it is almost impossible to buy new ones in Europe, so I won’t send them back. I will polish them to flatness.
@@spagati That's a bummer they weren't flat, and sending them back is so difficult. Best of luck with the flattening!
A lot of this will apply for me while restoring my dad's old no. 5 and 5 1/2 planes I've had sitting in my shop for decades. Do you have any videos on doing that?
Well, except for the return it to the store part, I imagine it is pretty much the same, basically.
If the bottom is out of flat, spray adhesive some 120-220 grit sand paper to a true flat surface (glass, marble/granite, tablesaw bed, etc...) and make them flat again, then up to 400 grit if you wish, then file the edges, toe, and heal. If Stanley, then you have frog screws instead of pins, and a press-formed chip-breaker instead of one that resembles another iron.
There are many channels out there with restoration videos, and some go as far as driving out retaining pins and replacing the Japanning (black paint like finish) as well. Have fun with it, and remember to oil or wax any metal that is not painted if your shop is not 100% climate controlled.
@@thomasarussellsr thanks!
Thanks For another informative video Professor Cos. In Michigan humidity changes alot, I use
charcoal briquettes in buckets around my shop, about 600 sq. ft. Also use those little packs of silica that come in shoe boxes, clothing and the like, in my tool cabinets. Nor rust on anything in the past 20 yrs. Merry Xmas to you and yours Sir. Semper Fi.
Omg brilliant, did not know about charcoal briquettes, thank you.
Any suggestions how to protect machinery, like table saw and sliding compund mitre saw?
Table saw not here yet but I dont want to ruin it when it arrives, like mitre saw, 2 sliders on it are getting surface rust on exposed part after a year and wd40 aint helping.
I will insulate the roof next spring but I am not sure that alone will be a complete solution.
@@bluewanderer9903 Since I have used charcoal around my shop there hasn't been any rust on my equipment. Few times during the year I will clean all machinery and use paste wax on surfaces. Good Luck
@@bluewanderer9903 Forgot this, INSULATE, walls, ceiling, and I also have platform over concrete floor that is insulated. Again good luck
@@williamshaffer2562 good to hear that it can be done, thanks
Love the charcoal brickets idea. How often do you change them out
Thanks for the video. Merry Christmas to all of you and a Happy New Year!
Merry christmas
Great tips as always Rob. For the life of me, I still can’t get shavings like you get. I do the setup you outline here, and only difference is I used the Veritas jig to sharpen up to 6k and then some 10k 3M stuff. And after all that still doesn’t plane like yours does here
There is a big difference between 10K and 16 K, Th ejig wont make a difference in edge just a little slowerthan free hand. So my guess is it's stopping at 10K and likely a little bit technique
Could be the highest grit stone you are using, could be the angle you are getting with the jig vs Rob's hand sharpening, could be the chip-breaker clearence back from the iron's edge, or how heavy of a cut you are trying to take, or the opening of the mouth of your plane. Maybe the geometry of the edge of your iron doesn't have any camber/curve with the jig. Are you hitting the shaving straight on or with the plane slightly canted/angled to the side?
Try pulling the blade all the way in, like Rob did in this video, and only advancing it just a partial hair at a time. Keep practicing. Sooner or later, something will fall into place. Pay attention to the feel and sounds of what is going on, both when sharpening and when planing. When it is just right, try to repeat those feels and sounds.
Merry ChristmasRob. I am about to go pick up my first wood river plane today. Thank you sir for this valuable info!! Thank you a million times over.💯💯👏
Glad its helpful. Good luck with your new plane
Thanks Rob. Love your videos. Wishing you a very Merry Christmas and safe and happy holidays.
WoodRiver is like a Juumas planes (with slight differences). Merry Christmas Rob 💫!
Ok, but how fid you like the video?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking A very good tutorial for beginners. Regardless of the brand, these planes are handled in the same way.
Great info. Rob! Thanks again.
Excellent Material - thanks
I plan to purchase a 5 1/2 Jack plane this year. Your video is very helpful in making my decision. The Wood River is on the list, but since I'm going to put $300 into a lifetime purchase I'm why not go for the Lie Nielsen. How does the Lie Nielsen stack up to the Wood River? Thanks again for your Channel.
You make it look so easy to fix and then plane like that. I wish.
You can do it too. Sharpening is the key
As always, thank you.
You bet
Outstanding video! And on a good quality, new plane. I shudder to think what I might find on my inherited planes. Thanks for the video! And have a safe and happy holiday.
Merry Christmas to you
Would you please tell me what screwdrivers you use on the WR 5 1/2 plane? I need some new screwdrivers and want to make sure I don't mar the brass screws. Thanks
Maybe if I buy a plane sock and hang it over the fireplace, someone will take the hint.
Good idea
lol
Merry Christmas Rob.
Been watching and learning from your videos off and on for years. One of the first was were you were showing the process for making your dovetail saws in an older lower ceilinged shop.
This video reminds me I have the same plane in nearly new condition (still in plastic in the box) that was given to me a couple years ago. Problem is the blade is pretty badly nicked and needs reground before I can do anything-been putting it off. I might go ahead and start the work on the body while I'm waiting for a glue up tomorrow. I didn't know there was that much that needed to be done before using a new one-all my planes are either hand me downs or I've purchased used and worked well after sharpening. Thanks for the tutorial!
Thanks for watching. What video would you like to see next?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'd like to see more on the wood hinges. They intrigue me and I'd like to work them into a project that ordinarily would use a metal hinge.
So, instead of spending the time to flatten the sole, just return the plane? Then why not test that first, before doing all of that other work? Seems like if that is a major failing point, then that should be the first test, before you do anything else.
Nice run through of all the other new plane set up procedures though, thanks.
P.S. Will they take it back after you filed the mouth and sole edges?
I’ve done up 100’s of these and maybe close to 1000. Haven’t had a sole out of flat (within working tolerance) yet so I assume it is good. They will take it back regardless.
thank you
Thank you very much!!!
What video should we do next?
Merry Christmas Rob and team thank you for everything. Your videos are very helpful.
Thanks for watching and YOU have a Merry Christmas
Thanks for sharing that
My pleasure!!
had to watch this a few times coz i was distracted by the patches on your apron :D i hope we can hear you share the stories behind them one day
Go to our site, robcosman.com, check out the PHP and read all the info there.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks!
Hi, what distance are trying for: chip breaker to edge and edge to front of the mouth?
Awesome stuff Rob.👍🥂
So how do you fix when your only picking up the 2 ends on a sub .001 shaving. Ive done these things to my LN 6 and 7 and when sharpening the blade i even tried feathering the edges like youve suggested in videos. Still no luck
Hi Rob maybe I missed it, but I don't recall you discussing exactly how to position/adjust the frog. I have a Stanley G12-204 plane, and the frog has slots that allow the frog position to be adjusted front-to-back. But what is the correct position?
Hi Rob, I have an out of swuare plane how to swuare it?- thanks
You know this guys Canadian when you see he tapes his screwdrivers like a hockey stick handle
If my plane is .006" out of square, should I return it. It's on the side I would use it on the shooting borad.
Yes.
Great explanation and tutorial for the beginner. Thank you Rob. If I just purchased a new 1,000/250 stone. Would that be similar to 1000/300 or should I consider a 1,000/300?
Not Rob, but there isn’t anything magical about the number 300 (or 1,000, or 16,000) for the grit. His 30-second sharpening method doesn’t even use that side of the stone.
I just watched this video, great refresher course for all woodworkers. I notice you use some kind of wax stick on the plane's sole. I've always used Johnson's paste wax. Any thoughts on this and what is that wax? Thanks
He sells the wax stick on his website.
Great video Rob ,Jake and the team merry Christmas 🎅 🎄 have a fantastic day
you too
What is the position of the golden frog adjuster knob before putting in the blade? Mid, all in, all out?
Bit late to this, but good video detailing what you need to do to most new planes, I'd guess. ON that "I'd guess" thing, I'm wondering, if this was a Lie Neilson (about 40% more expensive), would you need to still go through as much prep and is that extra 40% really worth it for maybe tighter tolerances in fit and machining if you know that you'll have the plane for the rest of your life?
Rob does this prep to all planes including Lie Nielsen. People in the comments will tell you that you don’t have to do this with LN but you also don’t have to do it with WoodRiver. It depends how picky you are. Some people upgrade their cars. Most people don’t. Is LN going to have better tolerances? Probably. Does that mean it will work like a Cosman tuned WoodRiver right out of the box? No. Will it be easier to tune up? Perhaps but there is still individual variance in each tool maybe less variance the more money you spend. Is it worth an extra $125? Probably makes no difference over the course of your life.
Just don’t make the mistake of thinking the LN is perfect out of the box, or that the WoodRiver is unusable out of the box. Neither is correct. Both are useable out of the box and both need work to get to Cosman standards.
What happens if your adjuster nut comes off and won't go back on?
Edit: I finally looked at the threads and realized they were lefty tighty not righty tighty.
Hi Rob, thanks for the video. I set up my WoodRiver 5 1/2 as you showed. After a few weeks of use I have noticed that the lever cap creeps back when I retract the blade. I have set the screw relatively loose, super tight, and everything in between, but it continues to creep. A quick google search showed several other people have had the same issue, but I haven’t found a solution. What do you recommend?
A screw with a slight taper on the underside, the bevel will bite into the lever cap slot and hold.
Try putting your screw in a drill and filing a bevel on the underside.
With enough time spent on a hand plane it can be the best tool in the shop.
I totally agree
Thanks Rob. I bought my first new plane back in October which seems like a long time ago now. I got a woodriver #6 which I really enjoy. I was feeling good about myself up until you started flattening the lever cap and chip breaker. I will have to do that tomorrow. But it must be fairly close because it does perform well as long as I keep the blade sharp. Thanks for the video training and encouragement!
Oh, I got your ajustar and plane sock too. You should have a plug about your ajustar.
Yes do it and you will see some improvement
As Rob says in the video, this "setup"-procedure turns out the last 2 perCent of the plane's performance. I think the procedure helps as well to make the plane work stabile and keeping the settings even better (longer time). For example the blade naturally "likes" the chip-breaker to be definitlely straight at its edge. And removing the sharp edges on the body - improves the handling sigificantly: Maybe just that difference makes more then 2% improving! I am waiting for delivery of my WR 51/2 (to germany, OMG) and am looking foward to these steps of setup. Until now i am only used to handle classical wooden planes.
I have set up my planes like this from earlier videos. I'm assuming I still don't have sharpening down really well. I'm planing some poplar for a painted cabinet, frame and panel. I can get them flat, but looking at a raking light, the light reflections shows marks on the board, that I can't really feel (but I have some neuropathy, so...). I think it's either something in the blade I'm not feeling when sharpening or burrs/rough edges of the sole. But I've re-filed those. I'm just not sure how to get the polished raking like without the marks. Closest I get is with my 4 1/2 barely taking anything off - almost dust, but even then I'll see something. Is that normal, something in technique, other? As always - great instruction, just wish I had the in-person to course correct my results.
Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and safety for you and your family!
Do you feather the edges of your iron like he says in his sharpening video?
@@CarlYota I do, what I see are not plane tracks from the edge digging in.
Rob, should we do the chamfer on our smaller planes?
sharp edges are uncomfortable to work with and susceptible to damage so yes.
Hi Rob, wax or oil on the sole of the plane, what's the better choice and why is it so?
Six of one, half a dozen of the other. Depends on who you ask, and what finishing steps and final finish you plan to use. Also, what type of oils or waxes you use. Rob uses that wax stick and he has 40 years experience, but Paul Sellers uses some type of oil-soaked rag in a can to wipe across his planes and saws, and he has been woodworking for over 50 years, so, it is a matter of opinion and personal experience, I suppose. Also, if one or the other will interfere with your chosen oil, wax, polyurethane, varnish, or whatever finish you decide to use. If you are going straight off the plane or sanding before the finish...etc....
Hi Rob. i have been cleaning up an old plane i was given. The grip will twist left and right. There is a small bump on the plane body that fits into a hole on the underside of the grip. I assume wear over many years has caused it to enlarge. Should this be a tight fit? Many thanks