Rob I fully agree with free hand sharpening rather than aides to help sharpen or make things. I get more satisfaction out of freehand making than using machinery etc. I notice the jig you showed for sharpening with my brother gave me the exact same one. I'm using it but holding the blade like I was doing freehand but only using the guide to help me get the correct feel of angle on my wrists and trying not to rely on the jig so I can get back to freehand sharpening. I love jointing freehand but of course the older way was much better with joints not the lazy way today with screws and nails. You're a true carpenter and star thanks Rob and also to your team
I love the final words. So many people focus on the wrong things. It’s always the love of the process first. Great breakdown Rob. Thank you for what you do.
Thanks Rob for putting into words and video my lifelong belief that learning a skill is worth more than just the skill itself, but rather the cathartic pleasure of a whole bunch of creative processes which are a journey on the way to a finished project. Learning to sharpen freehand has saved me huge amounts of time, ensures I never work with a dull tool, and allowed me to achieved some projects I never thought would be possible just 5 years ago. A massive thankyou to you and your team for all your videos and infectious enthusiasm to aim for the best one can strive to achieve.
I followed what you teach, with the same stones and technique, amazing results! Thank You for sharing and providing the knowledge to keep the woodworking community alive and strong.
For diamond plate, personally I use car glass cleaner bottle. This is not expensive, metal particle float and dont make the plate rust, just have to wipe with a towel at the end to remove metal dust. Otherwise, my experience is to use only diamond plate and finish with a lapping wax compound on a piece of lather glue on a wood board. This create a mirror finish and the cutting is fantastic. Its somgreat to se other method, and clearly I have to spend some money on a bench grinder for saving time. Thank you for your great teaching skill, very great to follow you and learn each week.
Nice video Rob. I sharpen free hand but I do use my Veritas jig for a few things such as my 1/8” chisel and skew plane blade. But yes definitely best to practice and learn the skill
Rob I've been having trouble putting my plane back together but having trouble hocking and sticking in wood and the blade didn't appear sharp enough to me from what I remember 50 yes ago in school. But thanks to your tips I made a discovery in sharpening blade better. Today I added a secondary bevel and a little bit more firmly on blade not strong but firm and feeling the the edge of blade it is feeling much sharper going back to shed to put plane together. If I get a fairly good plane not as good as yours I know I'm on the right track. I don't think putting plane together was full problem if better working I will work on fine tuning to good thin shave like or near yours. It's an old plane so good to learn with before I get new ones. Thanks a million Rob on your great tuition and great for elderly to understand you
Very informative video! This is a how to manual for sharpening! The demonstration of the grip of the plane blade was very well explained and great to see up close. Excellent video thank you for sharing. Take care.
The thing that's always drawn me to your sharpening method is the speed you can get back to sharp. I've used the jigs and various other methods and while they work fine, it always seems like a such a chore to drag everything out, set it all up, go through the process, put the stuff away and finally get back to work. When sharpening becomes a project in itself, it leads to using tools that are duller than they should be and that's never good. I've purchased the Shapton 16000 and the Trend plate but still need to set up a permanent sharpening station which is key in my mind.
I like Frank's Workbench's concept of keeping the secondary bevel from growing. He sharpens the secondary and then goes back and sharpens the primary to keep the secondary from getting too big
That adds additional time to each sharpening. Its takes so little time to re-establish the primary bevel if you are using a CBN wheel I think I prefer to use the grinder
I enjoyed the entire video, and the instruction provided. But your last answer was the best. Learning a new skill is part of our journey thru this craft. And, for me anyway, the journey is as satisfying as the resulting project. Thanks for the insight.
I fall into that category a lot. So many irons In The fire. So many deadline lines. Ugh. Just glad I’m not the only one feeling overwhelmed. Keep up the good work. I hope y’all meet your goals. Pickles!
Your advocacy of freehand sharpening inspired me to try it out. What a liberating experience! Now, where do I sell my $100 Lie Nielsen honing guide and accessory jaws? Seriously, this was the best advice I ever took. Now, may I ask you for more advice regarding chipbreaker prep? Besides the slight back bevel to make it fit seamlessly onto the blade, what do you think of David Charlesworth’s procedure of also increasing the main bevel on the chipbreaker to 45 degrees so that the shavings extract more easily? Is it worth my effort to do, or is it unnecessary?
Although I don't always agree with you 100%, you absolutely provide the most complete explanations of sharpening (and woodworking in general) of anyone out there. I do sharpening both with a honing jig and by freehand. That's where I veer away from your "don't use a jig" philosophy a bit. I don't consider it a handicap to ever use a jig. I consider using a jig a way to get the edge back to a pristine condition to be able to freehand the blade in between using the jig. It's just another tool. One factor of freehand sharpening I think is overlooked (or at least not mentioned) by anyone is that by the very act of freehand sharpening you manage to get a slightly more homogeneous edge due to the circular motion employed. Using a jig it's more likely to have straight scratches going perpendicular to the edge, and then those scratches being parallel to the motion of the plane. Now I realize those scratches are miniscule and may not amount to enough to cause any problems, but they are there nonetheless. Looking at the edge under magnification it's pretty obvious. Quite possibly I'm stretching reality a bit here, but try it and I'd be interested in your take on that.
To comment on the scratch patterns between jigs and freehand, the only potential benefit between the two would be edge retention. As mentioned in the video, the edge obtained by freehand sharpening cannot be improved upon as it relates to the surface of the wood. I’m pretty sure this would be considered splitting hairs though.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I've been told that my superpower is splitting hairs. :-) Thanks for listening, and the edge retention is another aspect to consider. The scratch pattern is potentially more important for those who don't sharpen to higher grits - possibly.
Great movie again. Thanks. I’m wandering, a lot of other people also use a leather strap with polish for the last step. Would that make sense after the 16000 grit stone? Or maybe a 8000 grit with the leather polos he so save a bit of money?
If a sharpening jig helps someone keep his blades sharp, that's good. If one has the patience to learn sharpening freehand, even better, I guess. Thanks for the video, Rob!
Rob, I got your phone message. I am enjoying all the things that I have purchased from your store. Top Quality. i am 80 years old and a Vietnam Vet. Keep up the good work!
Good Job Rob! Always enjoy your post and learn something each time! When you referenced sandpaper rolling you did not state on the way the paper was held done with water, tape, or glue or nothing! I fully agree with your adage to better tools make easier work and better results overall, but some of your tools are just too expensive for a weekend woodworker or not even necessary for some types of wood working. You are a business and not everyone is sponsored or can write off tooling cause you're a business. This also should be taken into consideration. I do paper on glass (glued down) and red and green rough, and I can get gloss level cuts by pairing no problem free hand. Sometimes I think you forget on the small shop guys that can't afford all the toys you have for the points stated. The other this is this ruler method on the back side? if you can do your secondary freehand then why can't you do your back the same way? It comes back to skill factor! To me that ruler is a crutch also! Again, I do like your videos methods and learnings just can't do everything the way you do, otherwise I would need to hand a shingle also! Columbus Michigan
I hear ya. I still advocate getting the best you can afford one tool at a time. I would do the back bevel by hand but i cannot figure out a way to hold a 1 degree angle. I can hold a 25 degree angle by hand, thats easy. Cannot hold a 1 degree angle by hand
Regarding the ruler trick, quick tip, get a set of feeler gauges rather than the ruler. You can get a set of feeler gauges for cheaper than the cosman ruler, they have no etching, and you only take one out and you then also have a whole set of feeler gauges.
And finally got me some real stones instead of sandpaper, 3 shapton glass stones. Here's a question, what can I use to flatten them besides shaptons 400$ flattening stone???
We have a diamond plate double sided. We use the 300 grit side to flatten the shaptons. We high grade the stones when they come in, the really flat stones (better than .0015) are $20 more. Lot less than the shapton lapping plate.
DMT diamond stones use a stainless steel base. Would that make it OK to use a water based fluid? I've noticed the problem with wet & dry & chisels - moving on to a flat diamond stone shows this with it taking longer to remove enough material to reach the corners.
Hey Rob, I've always wondered something about the "ruler trick" I have the extra-wide diamond plates, so they're 4.5 inches wide instead of 3.5 inches wide. Would I still be good with putting the back of the plane iron within 1/4inch of the edge of the 4.5inch diamond plate? Thanks!
Adam, I’m sure Rob will answer too, but based on geometry, yes, in fact the further out you go from the edge of the ruler the better because it decreases the angle of incidence to nearly zero. You can even polish the back without the ruler but then the entire surface is in contact and you have to remove a lot more metal when really all you need polished is the edge. If you get the edge too close to the ruler then you start to increase the angle of incidence which begins to lessen the effectiveness of the blade back as a flat reference surface. Essentially any amount you raise it greater than zero and less than .5 degrees will get the results you’re seeking. Moving it out to 4.5 niches is almost the same as reducing the thickness of the ruler by about 1/3. In fact instead of using the long edge of my 3.5” wide plate I usually slide my iron along the short axis which extend the distance from the ruler to about 6 inches. There is still a slight angle of incidence and my strokes are much shorter which means it takes a few seconds longer, but it keeps the back bevel closer to flat without the work of being flat.
@@eodeberhard1066 hello sir. Thank you very much for the detailed reply and assurance that the width of the diamond stone doesn't matter. I'm also wondering, when you're polishing the back of the iron, how many times are you rubbing the plane iron back and forth? And I mean this in a scenario where you were doing it the normal width way, instead of the rotation that you decibed that results in a shorter width to use. I feel like I've seen some videos of guys only rubbing back and forth one time, and then some videos where people are rubbing back and forth a lot.
It depends on wether it’s the first time or not. The first time you do it may take a lot more effort to get the factory grinding striations and any other inconsistencies out of tge blade. After the first time you just need to do it long enough to remove the micro thin hairline of metal that was hanging on from shaping the primary/secondary/tertiary bevels on the opposite side. I don’t usually spend more than 8-10 seconds on the back side to get it “scary sharp”. If your blade has a concave back (like a Japanese style chisel) from the factory you may have to work a little harder, and if it’s convex, it’s not worth the effort and headache it would take to flatten it. Cheaper processes and materials in manufacturing can lead to sharpening nightmares.
I can manage a great edge... with a jig. The time is just too much. I have been utterly failing at keeping the darn blade even when trying to free hand, so frustrating.
I'm good at keeping the angle, it's just the side to side pressure I guess? Always gets more on one side and have to re-establish the edge. Also having a hard time with the bending over, my back is no good, I can handle a minute or so but the time to practice is brutal.
Try using three fingers on the blade edge instead of four - take away your pinky. It could be that you just cannot put enough pressure through your pinky to get a consist pressure across the blade.
I finally managed it, so grateful for your teaching. After getting it to work, it's almost unbelievable how fast and adequately it works. This has greatly improved my joy of woodworking. I used to take 20 minutes minimum to sharpen, thank God for Rob Cosman.
Depends on what you’re planing. If you’re just removing mill marks, you don’t need to have a flawless edge, but if you’re making the final passes before applying the finish, a perfect edge is best. There’s no harm in sharpening too often though.
I use to sail back in the 70's and 80's. Paper chart, hand bearing compass, binoculars etc. Hand steered with a tiller and frequently adjusted sail trim. Needed some learned skills. Recently we bought a powerboat. Has GPS, radar, sonar. The chartplotter- pick two points and the route is calculated for you taking into account your draft, speed, fuel use etc. Engage the autopilot and you're off. Just watch out for logs and other boats. Feels like cheating.Need more computer skills than sailing skills. Much less satisfying. Sound familiar.
They didn't have the high quality (harder) metals we have today meaning they didn't need as hard cutting abrasives in their sharpening gear. They would have used natural sharpening stones mined from quarries, such as Arkansas stones or Belgium stones
36 year old amateur wood worker, and this is by far my favorite Chanel to build on my skill set. Just want to say thank you.
Rob I fully agree with free hand sharpening rather than aides to help sharpen or make things. I get more satisfaction out of freehand making than using machinery etc. I notice the jig you showed for sharpening with my brother gave me the exact same one. I'm using it but holding the blade like I was doing freehand but only using the guide to help me get the correct feel of angle on my wrists and trying not to rely on the jig so I can get back to freehand sharpening. I love jointing freehand but of course the older way was much better with joints not the lazy way today with screws and nails. You're a true carpenter and star thanks Rob and also to your team
I love the final words. So many people focus on the wrong things. It’s always the love of the process first. Great breakdown Rob. Thank you for what you do.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks Rob for putting into words and video my lifelong belief that learning a skill is worth more than just the skill itself, but rather the cathartic pleasure of a whole bunch of creative processes which are a journey on the way to a finished project.
Learning to sharpen freehand has saved me huge amounts of time, ensures I never work with a dull tool, and allowed me to achieved some projects I never thought would be possible just 5 years ago.
A massive thankyou to you and your team for all your videos and infectious enthusiasm to aim for the best one can strive to achieve.
Great story...keep on learning
I followed what you teach, with the same stones and technique, amazing results! Thank You for sharing and providing the knowledge to keep the woodworking community alive and strong.
Thanks for watching and following
For diamond plate, personally I use car glass cleaner bottle. This is not expensive, metal particle float and dont make the plate rust, just have to wipe with a towel at the end to remove metal dust. Otherwise, my experience is to use only diamond plate and finish with a lapping wax compound on a piece of lather glue on a wood board. This create a mirror finish and the cutting is fantastic. Its somgreat to se other method, and clearly I have to spend some money on a bench grinder for saving time. Thank you for your great teaching skill, very great to follow you and learn each week.
Nice video Rob. I sharpen free hand but I do use my Veritas jig for a few things such as my 1/8” chisel and skew plane blade. But yes definitely best to practice and learn the skill
The thin chisels are more difficult to keep square when free hand sharpening
Thanks Rob, Luther and Jake well done always great to have a refresher on why we do what we do
Thanks for watching and commenting
Rob I've been having trouble putting my plane back together but having trouble hocking and sticking in wood and the blade didn't appear sharp enough to me from what I remember 50 yes ago in school. But thanks to your tips I made a discovery in sharpening blade better. Today I added a secondary bevel and a little bit more firmly on blade not strong but firm and feeling the the edge of blade it is feeling much sharper going back to shed to put plane together. If I get a fairly good plane not as good as yours I know I'm on the right track. I don't think putting plane together was full problem if better working I will work on fine tuning to good thin shave like or near yours. It's an old plane so good to learn with before I get new ones. Thanks a million Rob on your great tuition and great for elderly to understand you
Very informative video! This is a how to manual for sharpening! The demonstration of the grip of the plane blade was very well explained and great to see up close. Excellent video thank you for sharing. Take care.
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative and your answer to number one question says it all
The thing that's always drawn me to your sharpening method is the speed you can get back to sharp. I've used the jigs and various other methods and while they work fine, it always seems like a such a chore to drag everything out, set it all up, go through the process, put the stuff away and finally get back to work. When sharpening becomes a project in itself, it leads to using tools that are duller than they should be and that's never good. I've purchased the Shapton 16000 and the Trend plate but still need to set up a permanent sharpening station which is key in my mind.
Beautifully said. You get the final word!
I like Frank's Workbench's concept of keeping the secondary bevel from growing. He sharpens the secondary and then goes back and sharpens the primary to keep the secondary from getting too big
That adds additional time to each sharpening. Its takes so little time to re-establish the primary bevel if you are using a CBN wheel I think I prefer to use the grinder
I enjoyed the entire video, and the instruction provided. But your last answer was the best. Learning a new skill is part of our journey thru this craft. And, for me anyway, the journey is as satisfying as the resulting project. Thanks for the insight.
Great point!
This is a very informative video. Thanks.
You bet
Thanks for clarifying all these questions
Any time!
Fantastic video Rob, thank you!
Thanks for looking and commenting
I fall into that category a lot. So many irons In The fire. So many deadline lines. Ugh. Just glad I’m not the only one feeling overwhelmed. Keep up the good work. I hope y’all meet your goals. Pickles!
Tell me about it
Great video Rob, spot on!!!!!
Your advocacy of freehand sharpening inspired me to try it out. What a liberating experience! Now, where do I sell my $100 Lie Nielsen honing guide and accessory jaws? Seriously, this was the best advice I ever took. Now, may I ask you for more advice regarding chipbreaker prep? Besides the slight back bevel to make it fit seamlessly onto the blade, what do you think of David Charlesworth’s procedure of also increasing the main bevel on the chipbreaker to 45 degrees so that the shavings extract more easily? Is it worth my effort to do, or is it unnecessary?
I hope to see more videos like this! Great content as always.
I'm 100% with you on that, especially the last point. I'm currently in Japan, and will scout for a Shapton hoping it's less expensive here...
They are manufactured there so they have to be
Brilliant video Rob
Glad you liked it
Thanks for sharing those tips!
Our pleasure!
Great video!!! Do more refresher videos on all Hand Tool Woodworking. Planeing, Chiseling, Dovetail. All worth doing! Rob needs a haircut really bad!
I am going through a phase
@@RobCosmanWoodworking if Robs hair keeps growing out like it now I am fully expecting a banjo to come out :P
Although I don't always agree with you 100%, you absolutely provide the most complete explanations of sharpening (and woodworking in general) of anyone out there. I do sharpening both with a honing jig and by freehand. That's where I veer away from your "don't use a jig" philosophy a bit. I don't consider it a handicap to ever use a jig. I consider using a jig a way to get the edge back to a pristine condition to be able to freehand the blade in between using the jig. It's just another tool.
One factor of freehand sharpening I think is overlooked (or at least not mentioned) by anyone is that by the very act of freehand sharpening you manage to get a slightly more homogeneous edge due to the circular motion employed. Using a jig it's more likely to have straight scratches going perpendicular to the edge, and then those scratches being parallel to the motion of the plane. Now I realize those scratches are miniscule and may not amount to enough to cause any problems, but they are there nonetheless. Looking at the edge under magnification it's pretty obvious. Quite possibly I'm stretching reality a bit here, but try it and I'd be interested in your take on that.
To comment on the scratch patterns between jigs and freehand, the only potential benefit between the two would be edge retention. As mentioned in the video, the edge obtained by freehand sharpening cannot be improved upon as it relates to the surface of the wood. I’m pretty sure this would be considered splitting hairs though.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I've been told that my superpower is splitting hairs. :-) Thanks for listening, and the edge retention is another aspect to consider. The scratch pattern is potentially more important for those who don't sharpen to higher grits - possibly.
Great movie again. Thanks.
I’m wandering, a lot of other people also use a leather strap with polish for the last step. Would that make sense after the 16000 grit stone? Or maybe a 8000 grit with the leather polos he so save a bit of money?
You rock Rob!
thanks...I like rocks!!!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking haha I mean, if it wasn’t for rocks how would we even have sharpening stones?
If a sharpening jig helps someone keep his blades sharp, that's good. If one has the patience to learn sharpening freehand, even better, I guess.
Thanks for the video, Rob!
you bet
Hi Rob - how about a video on sharpening razors and hair cutting scissors?
Can’t, the cancer organisation needs it to be minimum 9” in length.
Thanks fantastic video 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
Rob, I got your phone message. I am enjoying all the things that I have purchased from your store. Top Quality. i am 80 years old and a Vietnam Vet. Keep up the good work!
You too! Thanks for commenting
Good Job Rob! Always enjoy your post and learn something each time! When you referenced sandpaper rolling you did not state on the way the paper was held done with water, tape, or glue or nothing! I fully agree with your adage to better tools make easier work and better results overall, but some of your tools are just too expensive for a weekend woodworker or not even necessary for some types of wood working. You are a business and not everyone is sponsored or can write off tooling cause you're a business.
This also should be taken into consideration. I do paper on glass (glued down) and red and green rough, and I can get gloss level cuts by pairing no problem free hand. Sometimes I think you forget on the small shop guys that can't afford all the toys you have for the points stated.
The other this is this ruler method on the back side? if you can do your secondary freehand then why can't you do your back the same way? It comes back to skill factor! To me that ruler is a crutch also!
Again, I do like your videos methods and learnings just can't do everything the way you do, otherwise I would need to hand a shingle also! Columbus Michigan
I hear ya. I still advocate getting the best you can afford one tool at a time. I would do the back bevel by hand but i cannot figure out a way to hold a 1 degree angle. I can hold a 25 degree angle by hand, thats easy. Cannot hold a 1 degree angle by hand
Hi Rob, any thoughts on the use of stropping for the final polish?
No need. I get a perfect, mirrored edge from my stones, plus, I know that my edge is straight from side to side.
Regarding the ruler trick, quick tip, get a set of feeler gauges rather than the ruler. You can get a set of feeler gauges for cheaper than the cosman ruler, they have no etching, and you only take one out and you then also have a whole set of feeler gauges.
Boy aren’t you the white knight!
Very informative. Sound quality was very low.
Yes, not sure what happened on the sound
We started with Wicked Sharp, then we went to Scary Sharp and now we have the pinnacle of all sharpenings, Cosman Sharp. 🤪
I like it
And finally got me some real stones instead of sandpaper, 3 shapton glass stones. Here's a question, what can I use to flatten them besides shaptons 400$ flattening stone???
We have a diamond plate double sided. We use the 300 grit side to flatten the shaptons. We high grade the stones when they come in, the really flat stones (better than .0015) are $20 more. Lot less than the shapton lapping plate.
DMT diamond stones use a stainless steel base. Would that make it OK to use a water based fluid?
I've noticed the problem with wet & dry & chisels - moving on to a flat diamond stone shows this with it taking longer to remove enough material to reach the corners.
If you are referring to there Dia-sharp line DMT states on their webpage "No oil needed, sharpen dry or with water"
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That's the ones I was considering. Thanks
Hey Rob, I've always wondered something about the "ruler trick" I have the extra-wide diamond plates, so they're 4.5 inches wide instead of 3.5 inches wide. Would I still be good with putting the back of the plane iron within 1/4inch of the edge of the 4.5inch diamond plate? Thanks!
Adam, I’m sure Rob will answer too, but based on geometry, yes, in fact the further out you go from the edge of the ruler the better because it decreases the angle of incidence to nearly zero. You can even polish the back without the ruler but then the entire surface is in contact and you have to remove a lot more metal when really all you need polished is the edge. If you get the edge too close to the ruler then you start to increase the angle of incidence which begins to lessen the effectiveness of the blade back as a flat reference surface. Essentially any amount you raise it greater than zero and less than .5 degrees will get the results you’re seeking. Moving it out to 4.5 niches is almost the same as reducing the thickness of the ruler by about 1/3. In fact instead of using the long edge of my 3.5” wide plate I usually slide my iron along the short axis which extend the distance from the ruler to about 6 inches. There is still a slight angle of incidence and my strokes are much shorter which means it takes a few seconds longer, but it keeps the back bevel closer to flat without the work of being flat.
@@eodeberhard1066 hello sir. Thank you very much for the detailed reply and assurance that the width of the diamond stone doesn't matter.
I'm also wondering, when you're polishing the back of the iron, how many times are you rubbing the plane iron back and forth? And I mean this in a scenario where you were doing it the normal width way, instead of the rotation that you decibed that results in a shorter width to use. I feel like I've seen some videos of guys only rubbing back and forth one time, and then some videos where people are rubbing back and forth a lot.
It depends on wether it’s the first time or not. The first time you do it may take a lot more effort to get the factory grinding striations and any other inconsistencies out of tge blade. After the first time you just need to do it long enough to remove the micro thin hairline of metal that was hanging on from shaping the primary/secondary/tertiary bevels on the opposite side. I don’t usually spend more than 8-10 seconds on the back side to get it “scary sharp”. If your blade has a concave back (like a Japanese style chisel) from the factory you may have to work a little harder, and if it’s convex, it’s not worth the effort and headache it would take to flatten it. Cheaper processes and materials in manufacturing can lead to sharpening nightmares.
I can manage a great edge... with a jig. The time is just too much. I have been utterly failing at keeping the darn blade even when trying to free hand, so frustrating.
Steven....whats the issue you are utterly failing at lets see if we can fix that.
I'm good at keeping the angle, it's just the side to side pressure I guess? Always gets more on one side and have to re-establish the edge. Also having a hard time with the bending over, my back is no good, I can handle a minute or so but the time to practice is brutal.
Try using three fingers on the blade edge instead of four - take away your pinky. It could be that you just cannot put enough pressure through your pinky to get a consist pressure across the blade.
I'll try that thanks for your time.
I finally managed it, so grateful for your teaching. After getting it to work, it's almost unbelievable how fast and adequately it works. This has greatly improved my joy of woodworking. I used to take 20 minutes minimum to sharpen, thank God for Rob Cosman.
My biggest issue is reestablishing the primary bevel without a grinding wheel
You can do it with one of those very inexpensive jigs (around $15) and a coarse (250-300) grit diamond stone
Woah Rob, your barber pass away or???
Thinking it will improve my game!
Do you think you can sharpen too often, or is going with the 'when in doubt sharpen' attitude better?
Depends on what you’re planing. If you’re just removing mill marks, you don’t need to have a flawless edge, but if you’re making the final passes before applying the finish, a perfect edge is best. There’s no harm in sharpening too often though.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
👍
Support your local barber.
There is an electrical shortage here so I am trying to do my part to save on electricity !!!!!
Worth the wait! Thx Rob and crew! I need to go re-do planes' blades again (when I get free time!).
Free time? Whats that?
I use to sail back in the 70's and 80's. Paper chart, hand bearing compass, binoculars etc. Hand steered with a tiller and frequently adjusted sail trim. Needed some learned skills. Recently we bought a powerboat. Has GPS, radar, sonar. The chartplotter- pick two points and the route is calculated for you taking into account your draft, speed, fuel use etc. Engage the autopilot and you're off. Just watch out for logs and other boats. Feels like cheating.Need more computer skills than sailing skills. Much less satisfying. Sound familiar.
Sure does. What happens if the GPS takes a crap? Better know your charts
Now I have to go buy grapes. Lol
And you can have a snack while sharpening
🅿🆁🅾🅼🅾🆂🅼 🎊
I wonder what sharpening method was used by the great furniture builders of the 18th and 19th centuries.
They didn't have the high quality (harder) metals we have today meaning they didn't need as hard cutting abrasives in their sharpening gear. They would have used natural sharpening stones mined from quarries, such as Arkansas stones or Belgium stones
Dude you need a hair cut LOL another informative vid.
Its a new phase I am going through