St Augustine Grass Disease Fungus Identification - TARR Take All Patch Crown Rot in North Texas
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- turfgrassscien... This is a short walk through a Frisco neighborhood, with lawns appearing to show signs of #TakeAllRootRot #TARR #TakeAllPatch. Soil-borne diseases are not fungus grass diseases, and they must be confirmed via a lab test. Further, this is not a DIY self-help video w/ magic cures and homeopathic tricks, like throwing out peat moss on top of the grass. There are no homeopathic cures for soil-borne diseases nor one magic fungicide. The super-majority of soil-borne diseases are made unmanageable due to improper cultural practices at the property: lack of photosynthesis for the variety planted, overplanted trees, poor drainage, improper mowing heights and incorrect irrigation schedules.
Grass consultant services to Plano, Dallas, Carrollton, Ft Worth, Farmers Branch, Mckinney, Prosper, Allen, Denton, Little Elm, Sherman, Richardson, Fort Worth, Grapevine, Flowermound, Lewisville, Denton, Waco, Sherman, Tyler, Wichita Falls, Grandbury, Hillsboro, Colleyville, Euless, Coppell, Southlake, Roanoke, Rockwall, Garland, Richardson, etc.
#CrownRot #Blight #StAugustineDiseaseIdentification #StAugustineGrassDiseasesPictures #LawnSpecialist #LandscapeConsultant
Finally my answer!! I couldn't figure out what destroyed my whole front lawn it was very healthy then quickly started declining and it went dormant thru winter when spring came out looked exactly like this my and my neighbor down the street i had to resod
I live in frisco, My home's backyard was had some small patch of grass that would yellow earlier than the rest, now a whole chunk of bermuda and St Augustine is now a dirt patch with cyanobacteria. We also have Phymatotrichopsis omnivora in our neighborhood that seems to kill certain trees.
How do you know you have cyanobacteria? Did you have lab tests done or are you comparing from pictures online? Regardless, blue algae does not kill turfgrass. It is like saying that weeds kill turfgrass; it is the effect, not the cause. Customers in DFW overwater in the Spring, Winter, and Fall, then drastically underwater in the Summer. The majority of trackhomes also have no drainage installed, the water from gutters just dumps out and sits in the lawn. Lastly, the soil is alkaline and trees are overplanted in most properties. None of these cultural practice issues help warm-season turfgrass to live, let along thrive. Photosynthesis is the key to all plant life.
plantdiseasehandbook.tamu.edu/landscaping/lawn-turf/sorted-by-names-of-diseases/algal-scum/
@@dfwturfgrassscience In an area of our backyard that had completely died out and is now bare dirt has taken on a greenish color and when it gets dry, the green layer peels off the dirt. In a different part of our yard we have /Nostoc commune/ growing out of a patch of small rocks. As for the Phymatotrichopsis onmivora, it turns out the land i am on used to be a cotton farm. Though I don’t know if Texas Root Rot kills grass.
I just recently purchased 3336 f fungicide in having problems with gray leaf and yellowing of crown i live in lake charles Louisiana
The information that you have provided seems to say the best course of action is to switch to a different grass such as zoysia sod. Do you agree?
You have to identify the exact diseases, then treat the exact diseases, then fix photosynthesis issues, THEN switch to Zoysia. Paying lawn crews to weed eat St. Augustine stubble down to the dirt and throwing Zoysia on top is malpractice. Yet, that is what 99% of homeowners are doing. 50% of the calls we receive now are from people who resodded with Zoysia in the last 1-2 years and it is 80% dead/rotted.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Living east of Ft. Worth, with a St. Augustine lawn, your insight is enlightening.
I have performed a water analysis of my tap water. This quarterly evaluation assist me in balancing my pool water.
Now onto my question:
My tap water pH is 8+.
My thought is, no matter what I do to get to a pH of 7 or lower in my soil, every time I irrigate my yard, I’m increasing the pH.
Do you agree?
Is there a viable solution to maintain a 7 or lower pH?
Thank you in advance for your thoughts on this issue.
Very smart question. Yes, our water quality is very poor in most of the metroplex (and some cities actually raise the PH on purpose, thinking alkaline water is helping our health).
That said, there are more than a dozen different soil profiles in DFW and more than 250 in TX. Which is why the "Texas blend" fertilizers are a huge scam, and a big reason why people have disease issues in DFW (as they have big nutrient deficiencies, which starts the broken cycle of the turfgrass being sickly). There is no "Texas blend." And the lawn fertilizer services that spray the same blend at your house, without soil testing, are nearly as bad as the big box store taking advantage of people's nostalgia for Texas. So, there is no one answer to your question. There are areas around Flowermound and Lewisville that have sandy loam soil profiles. And even though though the water's PH is bad you can keep the PH down around 6.5-7.0 with regular sulphur applications. But if your soil profile is alkaline black clay there is almost no chance to get the PH down into the 6's, unless you continually modify the soil profile via aeration service and topdressing: turfgrassscience.com/aerator-lawn-aeration-service-plano-frisco-allen-the-colony-mckinney-lewisville-prosper-carrollton/
That said, you don't have to have a soil testing PH of 7.0 or lower to put TARR in remission. I consult for commercial lawn service accounts and for residential accounts with starting PHs at 7.8 in Plano, Frisco, Dallas, Allen, etc. And even with a PH that high they have already achieved 40-70% recovery from TARR since March, by using the proper mix of lawn treatment fungicides. And they are now looking at plugging selective dead (totally) areas rather than resodding everything again (and for most people it has already been 2-4X).
In closing, I raise Blueberries for my kids, at a 5.5 soil PH. It's in a 3ft raised bed, sulphured every month, and hand watered with vinegar water in the spring (before it is hot and its too much work to water by hand). It is a huge pain in the butt, but I do it because it makes the kids smile and they are learning life lessons about growing produce and taking care of things. So, almost anything is possible in life; it just depends on someone's passion for the subject and where they find value spending their money.
@@dfwturfgrassscience Dennis, thank you for your response. I just recently aerated my lawn. (Approximately 5000 sq. ft.). What a workout and in my opinion $120 - $150 is a bargain. I shared the rental with my neighbor and he feels the same way. Even though the $90.00 rental was equally shared, we won’t be doing that ever again.
The tap water pH issue has me concerned along with the fine line of lower the pH with various commercial products.
Again thank you for your video and reply. Especially on a National Holiday.
So since re sodding does not guarantee root root to go away what can be done prior to re sodding? My St. Augustine has disappeared 95%. I blame it on my tree that covered the entire lawn. I just trimmed it big time.
The only thing guaranteed to happen if you resod with TARR or root rot, is that the new sod will 100% die. TARR is a "Soil borne" disease. Putting new sod over it is like putting lipstick on a dead pig, or putting paint over black mold on sheetrock, or whatever other analogy you want to come up with. You need to hire someone qualified to start treatment. And Home Depot does not = "qualified." turfgrassscience.com/tarr-st-augustine-disease-identification-take-all-root-rot-take-all-patch-crown-rot-in-north-texas/
@@dfwturfgrassscience I started using organics Microlife Multi use Fertilizer, Hybrid Fertilizer, Microgrow, Humates Plus, Brown Patch and recently Alfalfa pellets. So far it is growing and greening up including some bare areas are beginning to fill in. Before I applied all this I could not get anything to grow. The same areas with new sod would die. Treating the soil with good microbes is the way to go.
We put out a Tweet about this a couple of days ago: twitter.com/lawntreatment_/status/1681685480771923969
With respects, not testing the stolons and rhizomes to see what fungus or lawn diseases you actually have, then simply applying a potion mix you hope works is not the way to go (for anyone, not just you). I can put down 1.5 pounds of ammonium sulphate fertilizer per 1000sft and it will quickly look amazing, bright green with a ton of growth. But it is just more lipstick on a dead pig if you don't know the exact list of sicknesses your turfgrass has. The only way to PERMANENTLY fix all of these problems is to soil test and disease test, separately. Then set a plan for soil correction, based on the test results.
There are no quick fixes to these lawn disease problems in north Texas.
You talk about tar, but 5 minutes in, you haven't yet.explainef what tar is, or what causes it. Or the other diseases of St. Augustine grass
Hi. I'm a solo, turfgrass consultant in north Texas. I have no video crew, no script, and no marketing team. The videos are as honest as possible based on my experience in the field. TARR was discussed at the end of the video along with some of the homeopathic cures that won't work long term (at least in heavy clay in north TX). That said, if you want to see a more formal written text about TARR and Take All Patch, along with some citations to various university publications you can see it on the actual website page where the video is. Click this link: turfgrassscience.com/tarr-st-augustine-disease-identification-take-all-root-rot-take-all-patch-crown-rot-in-north-texas
No help
Did you read the written description? It's not a self help video.