I’ve always believed that putting down chemicals as a easy fix is a big no, no for me , I’ve been looking for a long time for a product to fix these fungal problem naturally and now all I need is to know where to buy it . Good to know & thanks for the info😎👍🏽
@@papagreen7127 We have the same belief, use only organic inputs whenever possible. You can learn more about our products at www.johnandbobs.com Thanks for the comment :)
I used to have a gorgeous lawn until we brought our Sheepadoodle, Mickey home as a part of our family. Mickey loves playing with his neighbor friend, Kosi outside & ever since, our lawn has taken a major hit. Dead spots where they urinate, & now it looks like a different grass growing back in spots around these multiple areas. Also many dead, brown dirt patch type areas. We,be had a rainy month here in Michigan so thankfully grass looks green now, but it’s not a healthy looking lawn like it was. Any suggestions?
@Leah Watts It's possible. Moss is usually caused by a combination of poor soil, lack of light & lack of adequate air circulation. Check out "Mole Scram", an organic product that has impressed me with its effectiveness in reducing/eliminating mole activity.
@@hollykornachuk8365 Yes, I'd start with basics which are covered in our recent UA-cam video titled "Summer Lawn Care" (ua-cam.com/video/lfS5GqydWvQ/v-deo.html). Watch that, then apply 10lbs per 1,000sq ft of our Nourish Biosol. 3 weeks after applying send me a couple photos of your lawn and we'll go from there. Happy to help :) You can send the photos here: www.johnandbobs.com/pages/customer-service
Everything that I have seen and read by you makes a lot of sense. I’m in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area, and I am dealing with Bermuda grass with a fungus issue, the challenge is addressing the watering in the heat of the summer and utilizing quality products as you offer, but being in a fixed income situation and needing to be as economical as possible. I’m not sure there is an answer to my dilemma, but I appreciate the wisdom shared in your videos. Thanks.
I have been experiencing with a homemade fungal control of environmentally friendly dish soap, baking soda, and liquid kelp. I had some problems earlier in the season and I think It might have helped. However, as this video says, the key to healthy grass is good soil. That lessens the stress on grass when heat and humidity roll in.
Summer in south Florida means a combination of high heat and daily thunderstorms which led to brown patch in my St Augustine. I made a mix of sand and compost to cover them up and grass came back.
My biggest lawn frustration has been not knowing what the real problems my lawn had. I live in Chicago suburban area. My back yard is on a slope about 30-degree down. I have been fighting with "brown spots" (and eventually turned into "bare spots") in the area since I moved in 10 years ago. I have tried keeping fertilization plans, water more often, grub control, reseeding in early spring or fall, and even having the whole back yard replaced with new sods two years ago. However, it seemed nothing really worked. I am hoping I know what the real problems my lawn have and how to fix it. Thanks for your channel and films.
just subscribed...been a lawn maintenance guy for over 30 years....thanks for the tip....great info...my first year my lawn was LITERALLY perfect...the last 2 summers I have been getting fungus lat year it disappear until end of July ...this year it's already here in June
Welcome! 😀 I realized quite awhile back that it doesn't make sense to further damage soil w/ fungicides while trying to eradicate destructive fungus. I have focused on what can be done to improve soil while eradicating fungus. Let's pursue a long term, self sustaining solution.
John, I have been dealing with lawn problems for the last 4 or 5 years. It started out with what I believe was brown patch. I tried several different products without any improvement. Now I have areas of dirt without any grass at all. On top of that I also have some areas with moss and areas that do not have brown patches but small patches of dirt where there is no grass at all. After watching your video on healthy soil that seems to be the problem. I live in the Chicago area, and we do get 90 degree days with high humidity.
Bob, I visited Chicago recently - fabulous River Cruise and loved the developing River Trail! This would be a good time or close to a good time to overseed your lawn if you are growing a cool season grass, which I suspect you are. Send me a photo of your lawn and problem areas. Do you have a lot of shade? Prior to seeing your lawn and learning a few more details here are my thoughts. Mow the existing lawn very low and hard rake the bare spots and the mossy area - try to physically remove the moss and open up the area to air circulation and light, if possible. Check out this week's video to be posted tomorrow on Spring overseeding. Apply an improved fescue seed blend like RTF by Barenbrug at 10lbs per 1,000sq ft and then apply our 'Blend' at 20lbs per 1,000sq ft and spray our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller over the Blend and seed at 8oz per 1,000sqft w/ lots of water. Then apply about 1/8" of a wood based mulch like Amend by Kellogg or composted manure or Redwood Topper or equal. Then water appropriately daily to keep seed moist. After first mowing of newly germinated lawn apply 10lbs per 1,000sq ft of our plant based, anti fungal, soil building organic fertilizer 'Nourish Biosol'. Three weeks after applying send me photos and let's monitor. You can send me photos at customerservice@johnandbobs.com 🌻🌱😃
I didn’t have a issue with fungus until I had a Maple tree in my front yard cut down and filled the void with topsoil and shade/sun seed mixture in that area.
I use magnesium on my zoysia and before the summers out, it turned back about 90% green from being a yellow and brown look in a 4‘ x 10‘ patch on the driveway
I’m in Utah where we are in the throws of a multi year severe drought. Lawn watering is voluntarily restricted but it is looking possible fines may be imposed. My front yard was completely re-done with rocks, trees, and water conserving plants. It was close to $30K including excavation, professionally designed by landscape architect, labor and materials. It looks amazing and is water wise. Lethal as a play area (because either my grandchildren will fall on sharp rocks or I may kill them if they disturb my plants) I just put humate (humic acid) at 10 lbs per 1000 sq ft and watered it in well as directed. My lawn has patches of gray/brown virtually overnight. Looks like fungus. The turf is firm as in I can’t easily pull it up in clumps like I would expect. I’ve done some small patches over seeded with drought resistant seed mix but those spots are over run with birds feasting on the seeds despite pinwheels and peat moss cover. I’d love some advice. thank you Mark
If your lawn is cool season like fescue, even without the birds it is difficult to germinate from seed when weather is warm. If you have fungal disease concerns I would apply an excellent relatively new organic fungicide that doesn't damage soil like synthetic fungicides. It's called "Howler" and is available online from Arbico Organics. Also, besides an organic fungicide, we infuse susceptible lawn with soil life and soil life builders by applying 20lbs per 1,000 sq ft of our Blend and spraying over the top of the Blend with 8oz per 1,000sqft of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller. Then 1week after that application I would apply about 8lbs per 1,000 sqft of our anti fungal organic soil building fertilizer "Nourish Biosol". Then monitor closely and send me photos if you need help. (you can end photos to customerservice@johnandbobs.com)
I have had a problem with brown and rusty colored areas. First I thought it lacked enough water from my sprinkler system and added watering with hose. When that didn’t work I tried disease Ex by Scott’s and that didn’t help. Then I used Fungicide which also didn’t help. Now I found your channel and want to try your products as directed. Please recommend what I should do. I started taking care of lawn since teenage years as a help to my parents. Now I am back full time as a 67 yr old female trying to learn through you tube channels. I had a landscaper for a while and they were cutting to short and said they could not cut high. So now I took over and it looks much better except for these brown areas.starting to cool off in Bronx NY now so I know that will help. I also have a circular area about a foot by 1.5 ft that started to sink after having a problem with going hogs. They are no longer a problem, but every time I add topsoil there to plant seeds it continues to sink. Any suggestions how to repair? Ty
Sounds like you are making some progress. I would apply 10lbs per 1,000 sq ft of our anti-fungal soil building plant based organic fertilizer called Nourish-Biosol ASAP. Apply Rabbit & Groundhog Repellent from Amazon in your problem area and backfill with sand and a little compost. 3 weeks after applying the Nourish-Biosol take a few photos, send them to me and we can decide your best strategy from then. You can send photos to me at customerservice@johnandbobs.com
@@donnarizzo3510 If the fill amount needed is very thin (1/4" or less), then sand is appropriate. I would level/fill with sand, then seed, then our Blend over the seed, and then use compost or Amend like product over the seed w/ thin 1/8" thick layer or so. If the fill amount is more than 1/4", I would fill/level with top soil, then seed, our Blend on top of seed, then compost or Amend like product over the seed about 1/8" thick.
I have two spots of dead lawn and will treat them with your organic fertilizer. I normally use your fertilizer for potted plants and for my small vegetable garden.
Thank you for your support! Let us know how the turf treatments work out. If not successful, send us a photo to our website (johnandbobs.com) and we'll help you solve the problem.
Focus on building life in your lawn's soil. Beneficial bacteria, fungi, protozoa, good nematodes are way stronger than the destructive fungus currently plaguing your lawn. It works!
Thats a great point! Removing the causes is a much better strategy. 😂 im using a fungicide in my back yard today but mostly as a learning tool. In 10 years of doing residential lawns we have never applied a fungicide instead we focus on cultural practices like youve mentioned.
@@JohnandBobs ive never used any fungicides. Im curious to see how quickly they work. Im most likely going into the golf industry soon and I know its pretty common practice. My lawn is only about 5k sq ft. I only applied to 1k that was having issues with brown patch.
@@JohnandBobs i spoke to a few friends today and I think we are all in agreement that cultural practices are your best bet in controlling a residential lawn. I see why golf courses do it because theres a lot at stake. Im pretty sure i couldve solid tined aerated, added some organic matter, maybe some bio stimulants like kelp and have equally or better results.
I am in New Mexico and added 1600 sq ft of Sod to supplement a large are my dogs had trampled. I think I may have overwatered as after a few weeks I got some areas where the grass started turning grayish blue and became brittle then turned brown. But now it has started to spread to my old healthy lawn attacking it in the same way. From watching your videos I believe it is a fungus
I have a brown spot and I’m glad I didn’t put down fungicide after watching your video. Could you elaborate on using compost to fight brown spot? I’m not experienced but could one put a bit of perlite on the damp areas of lawn to help control moisture? Also my biggest lawn issue now is moles!
Perlite won't help with fungal disease. Good quality compost does help or the isolated active ingredients in compost that is in our Blend (Optimize, Maximize, Nourish-Biosol). Or products like kelp and earthworm castings to infuse your soil with microbial life. Those beneficial microbes will be way stronger than the fungal disease and will eradicate it. For your moles search "Mole Scram" online. It's organic and I have found it to be effective.
My new back yard is COVERED in brown patch, so much so that you can smell the rotting grass. But this year, I've not watered it one time, and it hasn't gotten above 82 degrees yet this year. What I USED to use was Beyleton. When I would use that once, it would break the fungus ' cycle, and it wouldn't come back again. These newer fungicieds don't seem to be as effective.
I'm not a fan of fungicides because over the years I haven't had good results. I prefer to build beneficial fungal activity in the turf with our Nourish-Biosol, Blend and Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller. I've been able to get faster and permanent results by building life in the soil rather than the chemical fungicide approach of killing fungus (which also kills good fungi). While doing this I search for cultural changes that might contribute to the fungus such as less supplemental water, or more supplemental water in some cases, or more soil building inputs and less chemical inputs. It can be very frustrating, but I've had good success by building complex soil life.
Every year I go through the same cycle with my tall fescue lawn in the back yard. I live in Charlotte NC, have a tall fescue lawn and in May we get lots of rain. In early June the brown spots start in the area closest to our concrete patio which gets direct sun in the early morning hours and is then shaded from about 11am. The spots continue to appear and get larger merging into larger brown areas. My dogs then start sniffing at the area like there is something wrong with it and start to pee and poop on it. Normally they do their business elsewhere but once the brown areas start growing, they abandon their usual places for the area in front of the patio. By the end of July, an area about 10 feet from the patio and almost the full width of the yard is completely dead. Come the fall. I try to rake up as much of the dead grass as I can and we aerate and overseed. In the last few years, I’ve asked my lawn guy to put down top soil while he’s aerating, in hopes of improving the soil quality but the top soil he puts down is of questionable quality at best, as it contains lots of wood bits and in some cases some really funky looking insects. Most times the seed takes, but on a few occasions it hasn’t so we’ve had sod put down instead. Then the cycle begins again.
I’m pretty sure the problem is fungus growing because the affected area is not drying out like the other parts of the lawn after the days of rain. So I’ve tried fungicides, which I think are applied too late (after the spots start to appear) and they don’t seem to be able to stop the spread of the brown spots.
A huge part of the problem people 40 years ago in a lot of areas were planting K31 in their yards. Then we went to more beautiful, much greener grass with very thin blades. K31 is tough as nails,I had it in my yard for at least 20 years before I changed to fine fescue and NEVER had a brown patch problem no matter how much I watered. But alas...K31 is never that deep green color (neither is golf course) that we all want. I did commercial mowing from 1988-1993 (had 75+ residential lawns,apt complex's etc..) and believe me brown patch was NEVER a problem then but it is now. Add to that temps that keep increasing and crazy humidly (which I never heard mentioned here) that's off the charts even in the Midwest. It used to be just hot in the summer here but fairly low humidity. It was 103 here yesterday with humidity in the 40-50% range most of the day. Fungus spores which are ALWAYS in you lawn and always will be is just waiting for conditions like yesterday to explode. Every year I say I'm going back to K31 but I never pull the trigger.
Thanks for the video. Could you please clarify how using anti-fungal amendments is different from using fungicides, and how it allows the "good fungus" to remain? This reminds me of people taking antibiotics to kill the bad bacteria in their gut, then needing to take probiotics to build the good bacteria back up.
Ralph, All of our products and the products I recommend either provide beneficial microbes or feed and attract beneficial soil microbes that are way stronger than the problem ones. So, the "good fungus" not only remains, but it's more fully developed so that the beneficial bacteria, fungi, protozoa and good nematodes eradicate or essentially "eat" the bad players. Thanks for the question and comment! - J&B's
Really would like to try out some of these products, even though herbicides and fungicides are illegal to use in Sweden I would still not use them even if they were legal. I like to keep it organic and adress the root cause and not just the symptoms. Been looking all over to see if these are available in Sweden but unfortunately it doesn't seem to be. Hope you grow and expand to Europe at some point :)
Do you offer out of state consults over phone or video consults? Just subscribed and I like your wholistic approach. I may have fungus in my front lawn strip under a crab apple tree. This spring out of the blue there is a large !' wide x 10' long patch of dead grass spanning from apple tree to driveway edge. Tugged on dead grass it has some resistance so prop not grub damage. We've had rain and snow in Colorado the past month. I avoided around the tree but on the remaining grass I applied crabgrass and spurge control 3/7/24. The rest of the grass is green and growing. I guess it's fungus causing the dead area. I guess I'll try your recommendations and treat the lawn.
Send me a photo along with the size of your lawn, type of lawn if you know and I will provide you my recommendations. You can email us at: customerservice@johnandbobs.com
Going to try this. I have several brown spots in my grass and I do have that green fungus on the ground under the grass I can see. I also now have mushrooms popping up in the yard. I know I water way to often and its hot in Texas.
Keep us posted on how the treatments work out for you! You can always email us (and send pictures of your lawn) if you need any guidance along the way. Our email is customerservice@johnandbobs.com
We put in all new sod about six years ago. We have used a professional lawn care service since we put in the new sod. Last year, we had a small problem with fungus, but this year it is overtaking the yard. They recommended antifungal spray, but they have also admitted it will never completely go away. We are interested in a cure and not just a seasonal treatment. We also have a problem with chinch bugs that seems to be recurring. We are going to try your products, just need to know how often and how much to use.
I would start with our Blend at 25lbs per 1,000 sq ft and 8oz per 1,000sq ft Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller. Then, I'd like to see photos of the lawn. Most likely I will recommend 4 weeks after the Blend/Penetrate application to apply 12lbs per 1,000sq ft Nourish-Biosol. Then we monitor and assess. You can send photos to us at: customerservice@johnandbobs.com :)
Hah! Not really, just determined to do things well. 🌱 Obviously, there are much worse things in the world...but this video is specifically made for those trying to help their lawn be healthy! Thanks for the comment.👍
Am having serious lawn problems it is spreading now to my back yard. I don't know what I can do to stop it spreading I live here in San Leon on the bay
Letitia, we get excellent results by infusing soil with life via 25lbs per 1,000sqft of our 'Blend', then spray over the top of the Blend with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at 8oz per 1,000sqft; then 1week later apply our anti-fungal soil building organic fertilizer "Nourish Biosol at 12lbs per 1,000sqft. I also like to use a new bacteria based, organic fungicide called "Howler" that improves your soil and increases soil life (unlike typical synthetic fungicides) while eradicating fungal disease. It's available from domyown.com and/or from Arbico Organics and works great in conjunction with our products. Feel free to contact us at customerservice@johnandbobs.com you can send us photos of the issues you are having for further clarity and aid. Thanks for the comment, and good luck! - J&B's
John applied 80lbs. of blend in Southern NJ 5000 sq feet of turf. Is that enough and when or what to apply next trying to defeat fungus I get every year..Thanks love these videos.
That is about the right amount of Blend and for fungal problems I like to apply about 32oz of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller right over the Blend or over the area you applied the Blend. I recommend repeating both again in early Spring and again in very late Spring or early Summer. Then 1 week after applying the late Spring Blend&Penetrate, apply 50lbs of our Nourish Biosol. Then we monitor carefully as we get close to your traditional Fungus time-send me photos. Best, John
I live in Texas. My yard looks good with the exception of of a few bare spots that did not come back from winter. I added Ammonium sulfate and Elemental sulfur as a result of my soil test and advice from my county Extension office. I have St. Augustine grass. What do you suggest to address the bare spots?
Thanks for sharing tips … I stay in Washington… and I am facing sod issue… there is fungus on my new sod . It looks like web strings everywhere on my grass . It is visible in sun light.I am in stress as I don’t know the exact solution for it. And i have put new sod before 2 months.Please Can you guide me??
I would apply only our Soil Optimizer ("Optimize") now at about 4lbs per 1,000sqft and make sure you don't overwater. Then in early Spring, apply 20lbs per 1,000sqft of our "Blend" and spray over the top of Blend with 8oz per 1,000sqft of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller with lots of water. 3 weeks after the Blend apply 10lbs per 1,000sqft of our Nourish Biosol. Also, it would be helpful to see photos of your lawn now and then we can follow your progress as we treat it. Thank you for your interest! -John
Preventing and defeating bad fungus is the same everywhere for all turf types. Infuse your soil w/ complex beneficial soil life. This is a self sustaining strategy that is way more effective than using fungicides. Good fungi is way stronger than bad. Every time you fertilize, do so with an organic fertilizer that builds soil life such as our Nourish-Biosol. At least twice per year use products like our Maximize, Optimize & Nourish Biosol or other soil building products like Earth Worm Castings. Water properly, keeping the soil slightly dry, but moist enough for the liking of the St Augustine.
I keep having to bring back or regrow dead grass due to mole tunnels and mounds. What is your solution for getting rid of moles? I’m more for deterring the little guys, rather than ending them.
Yikes! I'm a fan of Mole Scram or Gopher Scram. I haven't had 100% success, but I've been pleased with the impact of this product on minimizing the problem. - John Valentino
I've had recurring large patch. I live in Atlanta and have Zeon Zoysia. I only just realized it's a fungus. I thought deer were peeing in the yard, since it was perfect circles. 🤭I used Headway G Fungicide and the circles all disappeared within 2 weeks. It recommended a second app after 28 days, which I did. I have lots of worm castings and use mostly organic fertilizers and Carbon Pro G monthly. I'd like to be able to avoid using fungicide, but don't want large patch to run rampant all over my lawn.
You're in a good situation in that the fungicide worked, so you have a great fallback position. My main problem with fungicides on lawn is they don't work quickly and they don't result in a stronger, more resistant lawn. Yours worked, so use it if necessary. Knowing you have that option you can focus all your attention on inputs to build soil and lawn that is fully fortified with life so you won't need a fungicide. Use your castings, the Lesco carbon product, good soil building organic fertilizers like our Nourish-Biosol, our Maximize & Optimize, etc, etc to build complex soil life with lots of healthy fungi that are stronger than the bad fungus you have experienced. Keep building that soil; if you get the fungus again, use the fungicide since it worked, but focus on a future where you will have no need for the fungicide.
Not fungus related, but I have St. Augustine invading my Zoysia. It it's spreading like wildfire. I mow low, .75", trying to knock it back. Doesn't seem to affect it at all. Do you have any ideas about what could kill it without killing the zoysia? Thank you!
@@sbender9518 You are on the right track. Keep mowing low - 3/4" is good and should be too low for St Augustine to thrive, but great for Zoysia. Also, water as little as possible to keep the Zoysia looking good - Zoysia can thrive with much less water than St Augustine. Last resort if you want to consider a chemical solution is Fusilade 2, which I have not used but have been told by others will kill St Augustine without killing Zoysia.
My lawn looks exactly like the pictures you showed. I ordered one of your products but should have asked questions. I live in Michigan and my backyard was looking pretty good but now it's changing like my front lawn. Disease and brown looking grass. Can you recommend the products I need, please?
You need to spray/soak with mezotrion (spelling) then go buy a potassium rich fertilizer. And correct ph if needed. Then when its under control aerate then get a 5 gallon bucket order lawn spores for your lawn. There are many places that sell these cultures. Like 20 bucks and after you mezotrione apps are a month old you ad a 5 gallon bucket of your culure. Then you are gonna be good. And its cheap less then 100 bucks and you now have future of defense. This guy wants to sell you his product. Look up growing mushroom aqueous cultures. Its like 1 bucket is 50 bags of this guys stuff
Yes, because the chemical fungicides will kill the good fungi you are trying to build up so you have to stop all at once. I would recommend beginning right after you usually experience the most fungus issues, so you can attempt to build up good fungi before the issues come up again.
I live in Long Island NY and 2+ years ago i had a Kentucky bluegrass sod lawn put in. The first year or so everything was great. The lawn was thick and green and there were no problems. Towards the end of last summer the lawn began to thin in one area to the point of bare spots and is now spreading to the rest of the lawn. I don't know if this is a fungus or i have a bug problem. Also i have intermittent clover trying to take root which i have been cutting out by hand. Can you recommend a treatment plan for these problems. Thank you.
It would be very helpful to know the size of your lawn, which would allow me to make specific recommendations with quantities. In general I recommend overlooking clover problems for now and focus on feeding your soil and your lawn properly with our Nourish Biosol, Blend and Penetrate Liquid Biotiller. Focus on doing everything properly in terms of mowing, watering & feeding your soil/lawn properly in order to create a dense, resilient turf that can out compete pests, disease & weeds. After 6-12 months of this focus, if problems persist we can formulate a custom targeted solution. Thank you for your interest!
@@JohnandBobs Thank you very much for your quick response. I just ordered some of the products you recommended and in addition watched your overseeding video which I found very helpful. I think I have a plan now and will keep you posted. Thanks again!
Can't find answers to these 2 questions. Read university papers and watched UA-cam... For cool season tall fescue, when you have Grey Leaf Spot and Brown patch; ... 1) is it OK to apply Nitrogen in low dosage? I am due for Milorganite at 0.4lb of N per 1k. Right now lawn is effected by fungus that I am treating with curative rate of Azoxy and Propiconazole. Ok to apply Milorganite? 2) since dew point is crazy high and humidity as well, I am trying not to water the lawn, but we've been having 95 degree days in the past 2-3 days and 2 more days coming up. How do you balance watering and fungus when DEW point is so high and it seems like leaves never dry up, but lawn does look like it can use some water? ... though still greener than most neighbors around for the most part. Thank you./
My inclination is to water in the scenario you describe because the goal is to keep the soil and turf as healthy as possible. You will want to water as little as possible, but as much as is needed. I believe it is good to fertilize in your situation with an anti-fungal organic soil building fertilizer, which I believe Milorganite would qualify as. Products like our Nourish-Biosol (and I believe Milorganite) are anti-fungal because they feed and encourage beneficial fungi that are way stronger than the destructive fungi plaguing you now. Hope that helps! :)
I have had a brown dead spot on my lawn for 2 years now that I can not for the life of me get rid of. I'm really getting tempted to just buy a thing of fungicide and dump the entire thing on it and see what happens.
Fungicide won't work in the long run. Try overseeding the spot in early Spring (about now) and then feed the soil there and all around with our Blend and Penetrate Liquid Biotiller as per our video so that the soil will have beneficial microbes that can eat destructive fungus.
I ordered a bag of "Nourish Biosol", "Maximuze", and "Blend" but am unsure in which order to apply them to help with brown spots. I also bought some Kentucky Bluegrass seed. I live in northeast Colorado and the lawn sees a lot of sunshine. We did notice that in the area we are having patchy brown spots that we also occasionally get these mushrooms coming up. I water three times a week for 30 minutes each time which I don't think is excessive.
Hello Charles, Almost always there is nothing bad about mushrooms, only that they are a nuisance, but not a sign of fungal disease. Best to seed asap and apply all 3 of our products right over the seed all at once and water appropriately to keep the seed moist during the day. If practical, apply about 1/8"thick wood based mulch or compost over the seed and our products and then start daily watering for best germination. Please feel free to keep us updated on your grass! -John
I gat fungus every year located in Southern New Jersey..Clay type soil. I apply fungicide thought out the summer. Have been using milorganite for a couple of years however my phosphorous is through the roof 37.83 I have 6000 sq feet of turf mix of several grass types.. Which one of your products would you recommend??
William, For that size lawn it can be expensive, but here's what I would do in order to grow a sustainable lawn that doesn't get fungal disease every year. Immediately suspend any and all chemical fungicide applications. Sometimes it takes more than one year to permanently eradicate the fungus. ASAP I would apply 50lbs of our Nourish Biosol and spray 32oz of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller right over the Nourish Biosol. 7-10days later I'd apply 80lbs of our "Blend" and 32oz of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller over the Blend. Then I would monitor and send me photos. As we see how your lawn responds I'd also consider applying one of the new organic, beneficial bacteria fungicides from Arbico Organics like "Howler", which is very complementary with our products. There are others also, I've experimented only with Howler with pretty good results. However, I've always used it with our products and I've also had excellent results without the Howler. Thank you for your interest! -John
Had a patio installed. Contractor brought in several load of back fill. I now have horrendous brown patch. Yardn went from green to blah. Get the improve the soil concept. This is just very expensive. Found lawn to be scidic. Started lowering pH. What are your thoughts.
It can be expensive, especially if your lawn is large. How many sqft is your lawn? If your soil is acidic, that means your pH is low and we want to raise it with limestone. Do you know your pH? Provide a little more information, including type of lawn and city/State and I'll recommend the most affordable solution. -John
Hi. Happy I came across your video. I'm in Northeast Ohio. Soil here has a lot of clay. Last summer and this summer, I believe I'm dealing with brown patch. In both instances, it occurred once we got high temps and little rain. What's the best way to determine a treatment plan? Should I start with getting a soil analysis done at the Penn State Extension Center? Thx.
Hi, Love this video!! I Get dollar spot every summer, and last summer not as bad as it was a dry summer and I would irrigate early in the morning but wow this summer I have it bad, its been a weird summer thus far, I know I have a lot of thatch, I sodded this lawn back in 2009 and it's very very thick...what would you recommend? I know dollar spot is not detrimental to the grass it only effects the blades not the crown/roots and usually abates in late August/september but I would Love to not have to deal with this every summer
I'm not sure what you currently do for fertilization and soil improvement, but that is the key to address your dollar spot if you are interested in a permanent and self sustaining solution. Whenever you fertilize use our anti-fungal organic fertilizer Nourish-Biosol or equal and once or twice per year apply our Blend at about 20-25lbs per 1,000sqft. Monitor results and consider adding to the regimen once per year our Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller. If you have further questions, send us a couple photos of your lawn and specifically of the trouble spots. You can send the photos to customerservice@johnandbobs.com
dollar spot is prevalent in lawns that are low in nitrogen and potassium levels in the soil so make sure you fertilize regularly, dethatching and aerating the lawn can help prevent dollar spot as well. You can also try Bayer Advanced Fungus Control, comes in granules and a spray that you can purchase at Home Depot, Lowe's etc. put it down as a preventative BEFORE you see signs of dollar spot, in early summer right before it starts getting hot & humid in your area. You will likely need to apply it every 4 weeks up until fall when temperature and humidity levels are low.
@@2001eskimo You are correct. Interestingly, the regimen we advocate in the video will make aerifying/dethatching obsolete and unnecessary because the complex, beneficial soil microbes will aerify and dethatch on an ongoing basis. Soil life is remarkable!
Many seeds won't germinate or are difficult to germinate in Summer-better in Spring&Fall. For fungal disease in turf we use our Blend at 20lbs per 1,000sqft and spray our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller over the Blend at 8oz per 1,000sqft. Two weeks later we apply our Nourish Biosol at 10lbs per 1,000sqft. If problem persists, send me photos of your lawn.
Love these products... Anyone have ideas to apply penetrate? I use an ortho hose end sprayer to apply but not sure its the best wat too much water? 6000 sq feet of lawn...
We're so glad! So, there really is no such thing as too much water with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller. You could use a half gallon or 100 gallons of water - the water is just a carrier to spread the appropriate amount of product over the appropriate amount of area. An Ortho Hose End sprayer is an excellent and convenient way to do that regardless how much or little water you use. Thank you for the comment, and support! -J&B's
we have a fungus problem and mites is what true green told us I want to treat it myself because they wanted to charge us $500 to treat it when I said I can't afford it they brought the price down to $340. where can I get these products. We live in North Carolina along the border of SC . The weather has been really hot along with some rain.
Joanne, You can order from our online store. I'd start with a simple application of our Nourish Biosol at 10lbs per 1,000 sqft and spray over the top of our Nourish Biosol with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at 8oz per 1,000 sqft. Then 2weeks later apply Beneficial Nematodes from Arbico Organics (available online). Next Spring send me photos of your lawn and we can recommend a maintenance program. This is much different than a True Green approach which treats the problem only - ours treats the cause of the problem and creates a more sustainable lawn without constant intervention. - John & Bob's
I started a 1st time garden next to a hackberry tree (not my decision). We live in a sand/dirt area in A TX. Saw fungus on tomatoes. Trying to save all the while the hackberry leaves caught the fungus. Which was yellow spots. Sadly, we also planted young willow trees. One is dead and the other is fighting, but with the wind, this fungus spread to EVERYTHING!!!! I couldn't reach top of hackberry with spray. So small garden investment or $100 turned into hundreds of dollars saving and still failed. Can you please tell me what sprayer (reach 30' high trees) and what I can use for entire acre (we don't have grass) to stop the disease!?!?
What a frustrating and sad story - I am sorry that happened 😣 Our products can help prevent fungus in the future and spraying our Penetrate on the leaves of trees can aid in fungus & pest prevention!
Hilary, thanks for reaching out. I start with an application of our "Blend" at 15-20lbs per1,000sqft depending on severity of the fungal disease and then I spray over the top of the Blend w/ our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at about 8oz per 1,000sqft. 5-8 days later I apply our Nourish Biosol at about 8lbs per 1,000sqft. All these products are anti-fungal while feeding your soil and lawn. -John
Unfortunately, our products are not available in Australia at this time. We have a video for our friends in other countries who would like to mimic the effects of our products with ingredients you can find in your country. Check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/_kk2-es9i9o/v-deo.html
What time of day do you recommend watering? I live in Fresno and I have been told that it’s best to water very early in the morning (3-6 am) during the summer. Do you have a guide for watering times and duration throughout the year for fescue? Thanks.
What you have heard is correct, the thinking being you want to apply water with the least amount of evaporation and the best conditions for the water to soak in. Then you want the sun to come out immediately so that the surface water dries quickly and doesn't sit around and increase chance of fungal disease. The exception is when you are germinating lawn seed or watering newly planted sod. In those cases for a week or two you would want to do frequent surface watering during the day when the sun is out.
Great question. It depends how much damage the fungus has done and what type of grass you have. Bermuda will come back with products. Types like blue grass and fescue you would need to reseed also.
Nice video, but I live in Nebraska and we have Kentucky bluegrass which is a cool season grass and I don’t know why it’s used in Nebraska but it is. But every year I have fungus in my yard and it is extremely bad this year, To the point where it’s big brown patches almost where the grass is completely rotted now. Lots of rain this year hot and humid. Is it OK to seed my Lawn before I would use your anti-fungicide or would I wait until after? What’s the best time to use your product in the fall or in the spring? Thanks, Eric Hansen
It sounds like you are planning to do some fall overseeding of your lawn. If so, the best time to start applying our products is in conjunction with your overseeding. Prepare your turf area, apply your cool season grass seed at 10-12lbs per 1,000sqft, then apply our Blend (proportional mixture of Optimize, Nourish-Biosol, Maximize) at about 20lbs per 1,000 sq ft right over the top of the seed. If you are using a top dress mulch, apply it over the Blend and grass seed at about 1/8" thick and then apply our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller over the top dress mulch. If no top dress, apply the Penetrate Liquid Biotiller right over the Blend and grass seed. Then next Spring we'll evaluate (send me photos) and apply products appropriately to continue building soil life - your best sustainable defense against destructive lawn fungal disease. We just made a new video about fall seeding/overseeding if you want to check that out for more detailed info: ua-cam.com/video/4l-sNMFDJnE/v-deo.html :)
Unfortunately our products aren’t available in Canada. However, we made a video about this exact situation! We share what products you can use that are very similar to ours: ua-cam.com/video/_kk2-es9i9o/v-deo.htmlsi=ZiDiOkPy3SWAixUE
@@JohnandBobs thank you so much. Do I do this now that the grass is started to change to green. I have brown spots and there are weird looking leaves. Also I think my trees are getting infected.
Blastomyces is naturally occurring in moist soil w/ lots of decaying wood and organic matter. It's not advisable or practical to kill Blastomyces in soil, but rather it is best to encourage overall healthy soil with complex soil life. Proper aeration and ventilation is desirable. Furthermore, it's not productive to test soil for Blastomyces because it might not be a problem when it tests positive and it can still be problematic even when soil tests are negative. It's not an issue that can be addressed from a soil management perspective.
Moss is encouraged by poor drainage and/or acid soil. The next time it rains, check those mossy areas to see if they are more water soaked or more moist than other areas, or if you have standing water. Also, if you have a local extension service, contact them, take a soil sample, and have them analyze it for PH level. If the soil is too acidic, they may recommend a limestone application rate to lessen acidity. There are also products that will kill the moss, but that will not solve whatever underlying problem you may have. Good luck.
Usually moss is caused by a combination of poor, depleted soil and an absence of light and good air circulation. I would apply our Blend at 20lbs per 1,000sq ft and combine that with tree/shrub thinning or removal to open up the area to more light.
Without intervention lawns gradually recover from fungal disease when seasonal weather changes. We have successfully made the recovery as short as possible by infusing the lawn w/ organic nutrition, beneficial soil life, food for life and attractants for life. These additions are also key to not getting fungus in succeeding years.
Hello John. Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us. I live in Michigan and bought a newly built home last year. Sod was installed on top of a sandy median soil. Had really hard time keeping the lawn green and being inexperienced, was watering my lawn every other day and in combination with high humidity fungus developed. Yesterday I saw a peace of my lawn has developed Powdery Mildew and a couple of mushrooms. It’s killing me. Can you please help?
Our protocol is be diligent about applying water evenly and as little as possible to meet your lawn's needs-this might require careful analysis of your irrigation system or whatever you use to apply the water. Then we infuse the soil with beneficial soil life by initially applying, at least, 20lbs per 1,000sqft of our 'Blend' and then spray right over the top of the Blend with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at 8oz per 1,000sqft. One month after, apply 10lbs per 1,000sqft of our organic anti-fungal soil building fertilizer 'Nourish Biosol'. Then take some photos and send them to me. Also, there is a relatively new organic, beneficial bacterial fungicide called 'Howler' that doesn't degrade beneficial soil life while killing destructive fungal diseases. You can order that online from Arbico Organics. Mushrooms are not a sign of any disease problem at all - just a nuisance that can be physically removed. It just means your soil/turf has abundant organic matter.
Can your product be used in clearwater Florida? My professional lawn spraying company said they’ve never seen anything like it. They have me watering 4 days a week for 1 hour each time starting at 1am. They’ve used all sorts of fertilizer and fungicide and nothing helps
Yes, our products work in Clearwater - all over the world really, but we only sell them in the US at this time. Ours is a completely different approach than what traditional lawn spraying companies are used to. We use the power of soil microbiological life instead of chemicals that wipe out beneficial life. We believe complex soil life represents our best hope for sustainable, healthy lawns/gardens, landscapes. If you tell me the size and type of your lawn, I'd be happy to make a recommendation. Thank you for your interest! -John
My lawn is only a few months old and I am showing signs of fungal problems. Is it to early to use any product on it? I am in Hollister CA, the heat has been higher than normal but our evenings are always a lot cooler.
Nick, It's never too early to infuse your soil with life! That beneficial soil life is the best way to protect and defend against destructive fungal diseases. I would apply 20lbs per 1,000sqft of our Blend and spray over the top of the Blend with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at 8oz per 1,000sqft. - J&B's
I just put new grass on my back yard and I noticed stops that are getting about white color and the grass dry in that spot. Can I use those products since grass has been there only for 2 weeks ?
Yes, 2 weeks isn't an issue. In fact, you can use our Blend and Penetrate right before and/or immediately after sod installation. It's organic and gentle, yet powerful at the same time. Absolutely won't burn!
My KBG lawn is experiencing brown/yellow spots. It is fall in Rhode Island and has been rainy lately but not overly cool yet. This was new sod, established for about 3 months. I have dethatched it, cut it high and bagged clippings, and used Scott's Turf Builder Winterguard Fall Lawn food. The spots are not improving. Would your product be helpful? I am concerned that adding more product may over fertilize the lawn.
It's not possible to over fertilize with our products or with ours and others combined. But, sometimes as we get deeper into fall immediate improvements are subtle. Right now to address the spots I would use our Nourish-Biosol at about 10lbs per 1,000sqft and then monitor and send me photos in early Spring so we can recommend a protocol to prevent/defeat future spots. You can send photos to customerservice@johnandbobs.com 😀
When I had a bluegrass lawn I had brown spots or dead spots I figured it was the cat or grub worms, scratched around couldn't find any grubs. May have been fungal wasn't sure, I just reseeded
Sometimes it can be hard to figure out what is the direct cause of the problem. One of the reasons I like our products, you don't necessarily need to know the specific cause of an issue to fix it!
Even without disease I recommend using products that build lively soil with complex soil life because that's important for ongoing long term turf health and because that is an excellent way to feed lawn for great color/appearance. I recommend using our Nourish Biosol or our Value Rich, at least, twice per year on lawns.
@@JohnandBobs I put down humichar 3x a year for the soil. I agreed that a healthy soil is key to a healthy lawn. I do a soil test once a year. I’ll have to read up on the 2 products you have mentioned. Thanx for your response and I enjoy your informative videos.
Hello I have a clover lawn. It's browning. Some areas show gray spots, others turning yellow and brown spots. Is this over watering? I'm in Texas, heat is high, I do have some mushrooms popping out in the morning. I stopped then it's gone but clovers continue to die. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you
Difficult to say categorically. Based on your location, my guess is overwatering is a factor combined with your high heat and humidity. The way to grow the most pest/disease resistant clover is to infuse your soil with beneficial soil life. Good bacteria and fungi are way stronger than destructive microbes. Build your soil to include complex, beneficial soil life - it's really powerful!
Hello John , thanks for this video, I’m having the brown spots all over my lawn , can I have the names of these products to shop for to fight this problem..thanks
I would first apply generously our Blend (proportional mixture Optimize, Maximize, Nourish Biosol) at 20-25lbs per 1,000sq ft; then spray our Penetrate Liquid-Biotiller over the top of the Blend on the same day. One week later I would apply about 12lbs per 1,000 sq ft our Nourish-Biosol. Take photos before applying Blend and 3 weeks after applying Nourish Biosol and send to me. We'll then monitor and analyze. You can send pictures to customerservice@johnandbobs.com
I have the saddest grass (and maybe it's crab grass) and no idea what is happening to it. Can I send pictures? We are in California so subject to hot weather and drought. Do I email or chat in UA-cam?
I have fungus problem in some new tall fescue sod I installed in April down here in Bakersfield, CA. I believe the water is sitting on top of the sod (not penetrating). Applied a fungicide. Any thoughts on how I can correct? Thanks
My preferred method for preventing and defeating fungus in turf starts with not using a fungicide. Fungicides kill beneficial fungi, which are our best hope for keeping our lawn disease free year after year. Second priority is to dry out the lawn as much as possible while still providing just enough moisture. Third, I generously apply our Blend and our Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller to infuse the soil with beneficial soil microbes. Don't over water, regular, proper mowing (use mulching mower) and build lively soil are all key to preventing/defeating fungus and all other pests and diseases.
Difficult to tell without seeing a photo. Send me a photo or two and I might be able to provide a better diagnosis. Your description here makes me think there is insufficient soil and too many roots or tree remains to properly support healthy grass. I recommend you dig out that high spot, grade it properly with soil and then either let your existing grass spread into that area or re-plant new grass. You can send me photos here: www.johnandbobs.com/pages/customer-service
I have a fungus this year and i have shut my water off. When i get down close to the lawn it is brown under the green blades which is not thatch yet it seems very moist and wet. But my question is can you plug 3" the lawn if you have fungus? How can i get rid of the fungus? I have been cutting my cool season grass at 4-1/2" to almost 5" and i have been thinking to slowly cut that down to 2" to help with it drying out. would that be a good idea? the grass is green but the entire yard has a light green yellow look to it. Last year and the year before that the yard was very green and looked good but it did look like it may have had thatch so we de-thatched and yard has looked this way. I put down a lot of nitrogen and the grass does get greener but grows like mad and when i cut it the yellowish look is shown. Need help please
As weather cools it is a good idea to reduce mowing height to 2.5 or 3". Keep moisture on the light side, but you will probably have to water some. Apply our Blend and Nourish Biosol generously to infuse your soil with beneficial soil life. This time of the year you can begin to "plug" weak spots in your lawn. - John
You helped me determine the brown spots in my otherwise still green yard as brown patch, but where I’m confused is, they didn’t start showing up until fall. It’s cool enough in central Texas to stay below 80, but the patches are getting worse. Will your products help here?
I have light brown spots...orangish brown color...and large round dead grass spots on my lawn. My yard was treated once by a friend with weed and feed....but now my lawn is worse. I dont blame anyone...its just error 😔. I also have fungi and pest disease I think. Please HELP. I need to know what to put in my lawn...to get it back healthy. I live on the East of the country (US). Its the beginning of summer...June so what can I do to correct all this.
I recommend you topically apply 10lbs per 1,000 sq of our Nourish-Biosol, then two weeks after application take 2 or 3 photos and send them to me at customerservice@johnandbobs.com . We will then analyze and determine if you need to take further action to address your fungal issues and overall turf health.
I live on Shields and Locan, noticed you guys were on highland. Do you sell the nourish biosol anywhere in town where I can pick up? Or is it online orders only? In urgent need starting to experience fungal issue on my new construction tall fescue.
Mike - Belmont Nursery, Green Hills Nursery & Riverside Nursery sell some of our products, but I don't know if any of them sell our Nourish Biosol. You can buy it directly from us if you call our office in advance 559-291-4419 and set it up with Austin. Thank you for your interest and support!
I’m in central Florida and laid Saint Augustine Pro Vista last October and as far as I know I think I got dollar spot twice so far .what do you recommend for me to use
I like to use our Blend and our Penetrate together and then follow 3 weeks later with our Nourish Biosol. If you can pinpoint the time of the year the dollar spot is most prevalent, consider using a new, organic fungicide made from beneficial bacteria about 2 weeks before. It's called 'Howler' and its available from Arbico Organics online. It doesn't damage soil like chemical fungicides.
@@williamvankessel7775 Our Blend is called "Blend"- it is 1 part Optimize, 2 parts Nourish Biosol, 3 parts Maximize. Our Penetrate full name is Penetrate Liquid Biotiller.
We live in South Texas, have St Augustine grass. We have fungus. I just purchased the blend to apply as well as the fertilizer. How soon after putting the blend down for the fungus problems can I put the fertilizer down? I am trying to bring back a lawn that was 80% weeds two years ago, it is about 50% weeds now, so it is getting better. I just don't really know what I am doing lol
Michelle, We just noticed that you bought Value Rich (not Nourish Biosol), which is fine. The same timing applies to the Value Rich after Blend. - J&B's
I am just outside of Houston where is gets hot and we get times of too much rain or too little. I have a lot of mature trees So mostly shade with some areas getting sun most of the day Every summer we get fungus we have Sandy soil and moles. We have dogs so worry about pesticides Any suggestions?
I recommend you start by applying our organic anti-fungal fertilizer/soil builder Nourish Biosol at 10-12lbs per 1,000sq ft. Monitor for 3-4 weeks after application and see if improvements occur. Send me photos after 4 weeks and then we can determine next steps. You can find Nourish-Biosol here: www.johnandbobs.com/products/nourish You can send me photos here: www.johnandbobs.com/pages/customer-service
Thank you! I did not get a notification but just saw this and while we didn’t get that in we did last year I still have some fungus just starting in areas I have been using natural products and we always have tons of worms ( even with the moles) Will take some before and after pics and send thank you!
We have moss growing over the entire yard…and some sort of black fungus. What would you recommend? I hear different opinions on moss, some people say it’s better than grass, some argue with that. I personally don’t mind it, but just wondering if we need to get rid of it or if it’s causing the black fungus.
The black fungus sounds like slime mold caused by extended wetness / poor drainage. Moss can be caused by excessive shade, compact soils, and poorly drained soils….so more than likely the two are connected. If you don’t care about keeping the moss then I would recommend you prune plants/trees to let as much light to the area as possible. Aerate the soil by removing the moss, then ripping or tilling the area to improve the exchange of air and water. Then use our John & Bob’s Blend and Penetrate Liquid Bio-tiller to infuse the soil with beneficial life. Avoid stagnation of water to prevent it from reoccurring.
It will work in the South if it's a year long endeavor and the heart&soul of all your gardening/landscape practices. Focus on your soil, make it full of complex micro-biological life! -John
Good morning, the lawn has it's weed defense's in place however I have knotweed that jus will not go away. If I add the antifungal treatment am I feeding the pesky knotweed? As well as how do I get rid of the knotweed
Feed your lawn with our anti fungal fertilizers and soil builders and that will not invigorate the knotweed. Make your lawn and soil just as strong and vibrant as possible to put up a good fight against the knotweed. Combine that with frequent mowing and that's the best way to manage the knotweed ( although it won't eradicate it). Knotweed is very difficult to eradicate. The best way to completely eradicate it is with 3 or 4 applications of glyphosate (Roundup or equal) each 2 weeks apart. That will kill the knotweed and the lawn. Then you you will need to remove and re-sod or re-seed.
@@JohnandBobs thank you young sir for the quick response. I will certainly send results your way .thank you for your page, and videos. Such amazing work
What are your biggest lawn frustrations? Let us know in the comments & we will try to help you find a solution :)
I’ve always believed that putting down chemicals as a easy fix is a big no, no for me , I’ve been looking for a long time for a product to fix these fungal problem naturally and now all I need is to know where to buy it . Good to know & thanks for the info😎👍🏽
@@papagreen7127 We have the same belief, use only organic inputs whenever possible. You can learn more about our products at www.johnandbobs.com Thanks for the comment :)
I used to have a gorgeous lawn until we brought our Sheepadoodle, Mickey home as a part of our family. Mickey loves playing with his neighbor friend, Kosi outside & ever since, our lawn has taken a major hit. Dead spots where they urinate, & now it looks like a different grass growing back in spots around these multiple areas. Also many dead, brown dirt patch type areas. We,be had a rainy month here in Michigan so thankfully grass looks green now, but it’s not a healthy looking lawn like it was. Any suggestions?
@Leah Watts It's possible. Moss is usually caused by a combination of poor soil, lack of light & lack of adequate air circulation. Check out "Mole Scram", an organic product that has impressed me with its effectiveness in reducing/eliminating mole activity.
@@hollykornachuk8365 Yes, I'd start with basics which are covered in our recent UA-cam video titled "Summer Lawn Care" (ua-cam.com/video/lfS5GqydWvQ/v-deo.html). Watch that, then apply 10lbs per 1,000sq ft of our Nourish Biosol. 3 weeks after applying send me a couple photos of your lawn and we'll go from there. Happy to help :)
You can send the photos here: www.johnandbobs.com/pages/customer-service
Everything that I have seen and read by you makes a lot of sense. I’m in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area, and I am dealing with Bermuda grass with a fungus issue, the challenge is addressing the watering in the heat of the summer and utilizing quality products as you offer, but being in a fixed income situation and needing to be as economical as possible. I’m not sure there is an answer to my dilemma, but I appreciate the wisdom shared in your videos. Thanks.
I have been experiencing with a homemade fungal control of environmentally friendly dish soap, baking soda, and liquid kelp. I had some problems earlier in the season and I think It might have helped. However, as this video says, the key to healthy grass is good soil. That lessens the stress on grass when heat and humidity roll in.
Summer in south Florida means a combination of high heat and daily thunderstorms which led to brown patch in my St Augustine. I made a mix of sand and compost to cover them up and grass came back.
I love this man (no h*mo) Listen to John and especially Chip and take notes. Thanks again Mr. John.
You're welcome! Much love from Chip and I 💚🐶💚
My biggest lawn frustration has been not knowing what the real problems my lawn had. I live in Chicago suburban area. My back yard is on a
slope about 30-degree down. I have been fighting with "brown spots" (and eventually turned into "bare spots") in the area since I moved in 10 years ago. I have tried keeping fertilization plans, water more often, grub control, reseeding in early spring or fall, and even having the whole back yard replaced with new sods two years ago. However, it seemed nothing really worked. I am hoping I know what the real problems my lawn have and how to fix it. Thanks for your channel and films.
Reiterating our video, try to make every input on your lawn good for your lawn and your soil. Glad you find them helpful & thanks for watching :)
@@JohnandBobs Thanks. Do you have any suggestion for the lawn on the slope? It seems those area are much harder to take care of.
@@cyhung9716 Have you considered a lawn substitute like Kurapia?
@@JohnandBobs Thanks for the suggestion. No, I have not tried Kurapia yet. I'll give it a try starting from a small area.
just subscribed...been a lawn maintenance guy for over 30 years....thanks for the tip....great info...my first year my lawn was LITERALLY perfect...the last 2 summers I have been getting fungus
lat year it disappear until end of July ...this year it's already here in June
Welcome! 😀 I realized quite awhile back that it doesn't make sense to further damage soil w/ fungicides while trying to eradicate destructive fungus. I have focused on what can be done to improve soil while eradicating fungus. Let's pursue a long term, self sustaining solution.
John, I have been dealing with lawn problems for the last 4 or 5 years. It started out with what I believe was brown patch. I tried several different products without any improvement. Now I have areas of dirt without any grass at all. On top of that I also have some areas with moss and areas that do not have brown patches but small patches of dirt where there is no grass at all. After watching your video on healthy soil that seems to be the problem. I live in the Chicago area, and we do get 90 degree days with high humidity.
Bob, I visited Chicago recently - fabulous River Cruise and loved the developing River Trail! This would be a good time or close to a good time to overseed your lawn if you are growing a cool season grass, which I suspect you are. Send me a photo of your lawn and problem areas. Do you have a lot of shade? Prior to seeing your lawn and learning a few more details here are my thoughts. Mow the existing lawn very low and hard rake the bare spots and the mossy area - try to physically remove the moss and open up the area to air circulation and light, if possible. Check out this week's video to be posted tomorrow on Spring overseeding. Apply an improved fescue seed blend like RTF by Barenbrug at 10lbs per 1,000sq ft and then apply our 'Blend' at 20lbs per 1,000sq ft and spray our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller over the Blend and seed at 8oz per 1,000sqft w/ lots of water. Then apply about 1/8" of a wood based mulch like Amend by Kellogg or composted manure or Redwood Topper or equal. Then water appropriately daily to keep seed moist. After first mowing of newly germinated lawn apply 10lbs per 1,000sq ft of our plant based, anti fungal, soil building organic fertilizer 'Nourish Biosol'. Three weeks after applying send me photos and let's monitor.
You can send me photos at customerservice@johnandbobs.com 🌻🌱😃
Bill bugs
I didn’t have a issue with fungus until I had a Maple tree in my front yard cut down and filled the void with topsoil and shade/sun seed mixture in that area.
I use magnesium on my zoysia and before the summers out, it turned back about 90% green from being a yellow and brown look in a 4‘ x 10‘ patch on the driveway
I’m in Utah where we are in the throws of a multi year severe drought. Lawn watering is voluntarily restricted but it is looking possible fines may be imposed. My front yard was completely re-done with rocks, trees, and water conserving plants. It was close to $30K including excavation, professionally designed by landscape architect, labor and materials. It looks amazing and is water wise. Lethal as a play area (because either my grandchildren will fall on sharp rocks or I may kill them if they disturb my plants) I just put humate (humic acid) at 10 lbs per 1000 sq ft and watered it in well as directed. My lawn has patches of gray/brown virtually overnight. Looks like fungus. The turf is firm as in I can’t easily pull it up in clumps like I would expect. I’ve done some small patches over seeded with drought resistant seed mix but those spots are over run with birds feasting on the seeds despite pinwheels and peat moss cover. I’d love some advice. thank you
Mark
If your lawn is cool season like fescue, even without the birds it is difficult to germinate from seed when weather is warm. If you have fungal disease concerns I would apply an excellent relatively new organic fungicide that doesn't damage soil like synthetic fungicides. It's called "Howler" and is available online from Arbico Organics. Also, besides an organic fungicide, we infuse susceptible lawn with soil life and soil life builders by applying 20lbs per 1,000 sq ft of our Blend and spraying over the top of the Blend with 8oz per 1,000sqft of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller. Then 1week after that application I would apply about 8lbs per 1,000 sqft of our anti fungal organic soil building fertilizer "Nourish Biosol". Then monitor closely and send me photos if you need help. (you can end photos to customerservice@johnandbobs.com)
I have had a problem with brown and rusty colored areas. First I thought it lacked enough water from my sprinkler system and added watering with hose. When that didn’t work I tried disease Ex by Scott’s and that didn’t help. Then I used Fungicide which also didn’t help. Now I found your channel and want to try your products as directed. Please recommend what I should do. I started taking care of lawn since teenage years as a help to my parents. Now I am back full time as a 67 yr old female trying to learn through you tube channels. I had a landscaper for a while and they were cutting to short and said they could not cut high. So now I took over and it looks much better except for these brown areas.starting to cool off in Bronx NY now so I know that will help. I also have a circular area about a foot by 1.5 ft that started to sink after having a problem with going hogs. They are no longer a problem, but every time I add topsoil there to plant seeds it continues to sink. Any suggestions how to repair? Ty
Sounds like you are making some progress. I would apply 10lbs per 1,000 sq ft of our anti-fungal soil building plant based organic fertilizer called Nourish-Biosol ASAP. Apply Rabbit & Groundhog Repellent from Amazon in your problem area and backfill with sand and a little compost. 3 weeks after applying the Nourish-Biosol take a few photos, send them to me and we can decide your best strategy from then. You can send photos to me at customerservice@johnandbobs.com
@@JohnandBobs do I put sand right on top of the topsoil and then place compost and seed?
@@donnarizzo3510 If the fill amount needed is very thin (1/4" or less), then sand is appropriate. I would level/fill with sand, then seed, then our Blend over the seed, and then use compost or Amend like product over the seed w/ thin 1/8" thick layer or so. If the fill amount is more than 1/4", I would fill/level with top soil, then seed, our Blend on top of seed, then compost or Amend like product over the seed about 1/8" thick.
I have two spots of dead lawn and will treat them with your organic fertilizer. I normally use your fertilizer for potted plants and for my small vegetable garden.
Thank you for your support! Let us know how the turf treatments work out. If not successful, send us a photo to our website (johnandbobs.com) and we'll help you solve the problem.
My lawn has the same issue .hope this will work for me
Focus on building life in your lawn's soil. Beneficial bacteria, fungi, protozoa, good nematodes are way stronger than the destructive fungus currently plaguing your lawn. It works!
@@JohnandBobs yesterday i added cow and goat waste ,shall I add good soil on the top ? As I have grown my grass on sand
Thats a great point! Removing the causes is a much better strategy. 😂 im using a fungicide in my back yard today but mostly as a learning tool. In 10 years of doing residential lawns we have never applied a fungicide instead we focus on cultural practices like youve mentioned.
What are you hoping to learn from using a fungicide? I'm intrigued. 🤔
@@JohnandBobs ive never used any fungicides. Im curious to see how quickly they work. Im most likely going into the golf industry soon and I know its pretty common practice. My lawn is only about 5k sq ft. I only applied to 1k that was having issues with brown patch.
Let us know your results!
@@JohnandBobs i spoke to a few friends today and I think we are all in agreement that cultural practices are your best bet in controlling a residential lawn. I see why golf courses do it because theres a lot at stake. Im pretty sure i couldve solid tined aerated, added some organic matter, maybe some bio stimulants like kelp and have equally or better results.
I am in New Mexico and added 1600 sq ft of Sod to supplement a large are my dogs had trampled. I think I may have overwatered as after a few weeks I got some areas where the grass started turning grayish blue and became brittle then turned brown. But now it has started to spread to my old healthy lawn attacking it in the same way. From watching your videos I believe it is a fungus
I’m just not sure how to attack, I am preparing to purchase your products but wanted to comment first.
Send some pictures of your lawn to customerservice@johnandbobs.com and reiterate your problem and we will recommend the best course of action! :)
I have a brown spot and I’m glad I didn’t put down fungicide after watching your video. Could you elaborate on using compost to fight brown spot? I’m not experienced but could one put a bit of perlite on the damp areas of lawn to help control moisture? Also my biggest lawn issue now is moles!
Perlite won't help with fungal disease. Good quality compost does help or the isolated active ingredients in compost that is in our Blend (Optimize, Maximize, Nourish-Biosol). Or products like kelp and earthworm castings to infuse your soil with microbial life. Those beneficial microbes will be way stronger than the fungal disease and will eradicate it. For your moles search "Mole Scram" online. It's organic and I have found it to be effective.
My new back yard is COVERED in brown patch, so much so that you can smell the rotting grass. But this year, I've not watered it one time, and it hasn't gotten above 82 degrees yet this year. What I USED to use was Beyleton. When I would use that once, it would break the fungus ' cycle, and it wouldn't come back again. These newer fungicieds don't seem to be as effective.
I'm not a fan of fungicides because over the years I haven't had good results. I prefer to build beneficial fungal activity in the turf with our Nourish-Biosol, Blend and Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller. I've been able to get faster and permanent results by building life in the soil rather than the chemical fungicide approach of killing fungus (which also kills good fungi). While doing this I search for cultural changes that might contribute to the fungus such as less supplemental water, or more supplemental water in some cases, or more soil building inputs and less chemical inputs. It can be very frustrating, but I've had good success by building complex soil life.
Pray
Im in Vegas, and yes still have a lawn because I love a good lawn. I have large brown spots, I water, and did fertilize, now I wonder if I have fungus
Hey Samantha, feel free to send pictures to customerservice@johnandbobs.com - we can help analyze the issue! 🌱
Every year I go through the same cycle with my tall fescue lawn in the back yard. I live in Charlotte NC, have a tall fescue lawn and in May we get lots of rain. In early June the brown spots start in the area closest to our concrete patio which gets direct sun in the early morning hours and is then shaded from about 11am. The spots continue to appear and get larger merging into larger brown areas. My dogs then start sniffing at the area like there is something wrong with it and start to pee and poop on it. Normally they do their business elsewhere but once the brown areas start growing, they abandon their usual places for the area in front of the patio. By the end of July, an area about 10 feet from the patio and almost the full width of the yard is completely dead.
Come the fall. I try to rake up as much of the dead grass as I can and we aerate and overseed. In the last few years, I’ve asked my lawn guy to put down top soil while he’s aerating, in hopes of improving the soil quality but the top soil he puts down is of questionable quality at best, as it contains lots of wood bits and in some cases some really funky looking insects. Most times the seed takes, but on a few occasions it hasn’t so we’ve had sod put down instead. Then the cycle begins again.
I’m pretty sure the problem is fungus growing because the affected area is not drying out like the other parts of the lawn after the days of rain. So I’ve tried fungicides, which I think are applied too late (after the spots start to appear) and they don’t seem to be able to stop the spread of the brown spots.
This makes so much sense. Thank you.
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching 😀
A huge part of the problem people 40 years ago in a lot of areas were planting K31 in their yards. Then we went to more beautiful, much greener grass with very thin blades. K31 is tough as nails,I had it in my yard for at least 20 years before I changed to fine fescue and NEVER had a brown patch problem no matter how much I watered. But alas...K31 is never that deep green color (neither is golf course) that we all want. I did commercial mowing from 1988-1993 (had 75+ residential lawns,apt complex's etc..) and believe me brown patch was NEVER a problem then but it is now. Add to that temps that keep increasing and crazy humidly (which I never heard mentioned here) that's off the charts even in the Midwest. It used to be just hot in the summer here but fairly low humidity. It was 103 here yesterday with humidity in the 40-50% range most of the day. Fungus spores which are ALWAYS in you lawn and always will be is just waiting for conditions like yesterday to explode. Every year I say I'm going back to K31 but I never pull the trigger.
Thanks for the video. Could you please clarify how using anti-fungal amendments is different from using fungicides, and how it allows the "good fungus" to remain?
This reminds me of people taking antibiotics to kill the bad bacteria in their gut, then needing to take probiotics to build the good bacteria back up.
Ralph,
All of our products and the products I recommend either provide beneficial microbes or feed and attract beneficial soil microbes that are way stronger than the problem ones. So, the "good fungus" not only remains, but it's more fully developed so that the beneficial bacteria, fungi, protozoa and good nematodes eradicate or essentially "eat" the bad players. Thanks for the question and comment! - J&B's
Really would like to try out some of these products, even though herbicides and fungicides are illegal to use in Sweden I would still not use them even if they were legal. I like to keep it organic and adress the root cause and not just the symptoms. Been looking all over to see if these are available in Sweden but unfortunately it doesn't seem to be. Hope you grow and expand to Europe at some point :)
Thank you, maybe someday! - J&B's
9.36 my lawn same .. so use biosol , blend , citral blast for fungus
Also, be generous with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller right over the top of the Nourish Biosol and Blend applications. -John
Do you offer out of state consults over phone or video consults? Just subscribed and I like your wholistic approach. I may have fungus in my front lawn strip under a crab apple tree. This spring out of the blue there is a large !' wide x 10' long patch of dead grass spanning from apple tree to driveway edge. Tugged on dead grass it has some resistance so prop not grub damage. We've had rain and snow in Colorado the past month. I avoided around the tree but on the remaining grass I applied crabgrass and spurge control 3/7/24. The rest of the grass is green and growing. I guess it's fungus causing the dead area. I guess I'll try your recommendations and treat the lawn.
Send me a photo along with the size of your lawn, type of lawn if you know and I will provide you my recommendations. You can email us at: customerservice@johnandbobs.com
I have brown spots pop up in my lawn. I use a fertilizer but was wondering which of your products I should go with?
Hey Kevin, we answered you via chat/email. Let us know if you need more info!
same .. what did u buy ?
Going to try this. I have several brown spots in my grass and I do have that green fungus on the ground under the grass I can see. I also now have mushrooms popping up in the yard. I know I water way to often and its hot in Texas.
Keep us posted on how the treatments work out for you! You can always email us (and send pictures of your lawn) if you need any guidance along the way. Our email is customerservice@johnandbobs.com
@@JohnandBobs Thank you very much, once I get the product I will reach back out to make sure I apply it correctly. Thank you once again.
RIP, John! You will be missed 😢
John is still alive and well!
Hello John. I was very impressed with your video. I was wondering if there's a way to send you pics of my lawn and get some of your advice.
Certainly. I'd be happy to look at photos of your lawn. Please send them to: customerservice@johnandbobs.com
We put in all new sod about six years ago. We have used a professional lawn care service since we put in the new sod. Last year, we had a small problem with fungus, but this year it is overtaking the yard. They recommended antifungal spray, but they have also admitted it will never completely go away. We are interested in a cure and not just a seasonal treatment. We also have a problem with chinch bugs that seems to be recurring. We are going to try your products, just need to know how often and how much to use.
I would start with our Blend at 25lbs per 1,000 sq ft and 8oz per 1,000sq ft Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller. Then, I'd like to see photos of the lawn. Most likely I will recommend 4 weeks after the Blend/Penetrate application to apply 12lbs per 1,000sq ft Nourish-Biosol. Then we monitor and assess. You can send photos to us at: customerservice@johnandbobs.com :)
"There is nothing more frustrating than when your lawn isn't green" - DAMN, you must have lead a really privileged life.
Hah! Not really, just determined to do things well. 🌱
Obviously, there are much worse things in the world...but this video is specifically made for those trying to help their lawn be healthy!
Thanks for the comment.👍
Am having serious lawn problems it is spreading now to my back yard. I don't know what I can do to stop it spreading I live here in San Leon on the bay
Looks to be brown path also the grass is dead. Except where my trees are it's green. I order a soil kit from yard masters so I hope that helps
Letitia, we get excellent results by infusing soil with life via 25lbs per 1,000sqft of our 'Blend', then spray over the top of the Blend with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at 8oz per 1,000sqft; then 1week later apply our anti-fungal soil building organic fertilizer "Nourish Biosol at 12lbs per 1,000sqft. I also like to use a new bacteria based, organic fungicide called "Howler" that improves your soil and increases soil life (unlike typical synthetic fungicides) while eradicating fungal disease. It's available from domyown.com and/or from Arbico Organics and works great in conjunction with our products. Feel free to contact us at customerservice@johnandbobs.com you can send us photos of the issues you are having for further clarity and aid. Thanks for the comment, and good luck! - J&B's
John applied 80lbs. of blend in Southern NJ 5000 sq feet of turf. Is that enough and when or what to apply next trying to defeat fungus I get every year..Thanks love these videos.
That is about the right amount of Blend and for fungal problems I like to apply about 32oz of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller right over the Blend or over the area you applied the Blend. I recommend repeating both again in early Spring and again in very late Spring or early Summer. Then 1 week after applying the late Spring Blend&Penetrate, apply 50lbs of our Nourish Biosol. Then we monitor carefully as we get close to your traditional Fungus time-send me photos.
Best, John
Thanks John@@JohnandBobs
I live in Texas. My yard looks good with the exception of of a few bare spots that did not come back from winter. I added Ammonium sulfate and Elemental sulfur as a result of my soil test and advice from my county Extension office. I have St. Augustine grass. What do you suggest to address the bare spots?
I have fungi problems every year, couple of years ago it killed all my lawn. its been an uphill battle.
Consider a different approach. No fungicides, instead infuse your soil with life, as well as food and attractants for life. It works!
Thanks for sharing tips … I stay in Washington… and I am facing sod issue… there is fungus on my new sod . It looks like web strings everywhere on my grass . It is visible in sun light.I am in stress as I don’t know the exact solution for it. And i have put new sod before 2 months.Please Can you guide me??
I would apply only our Soil Optimizer ("Optimize") now at about 4lbs per 1,000sqft and make sure you don't overwater. Then in early Spring, apply 20lbs per 1,000sqft of our "Blend" and spray over the top of Blend with 8oz per 1,000sqft of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller with lots of water. 3 weeks after the Blend apply 10lbs per 1,000sqft of our Nourish Biosol. Also, it would be helpful to see photos of your lawn now and then we can follow your progress as we treat it. Thank you for your interest! -John
WE HAVE A BAD FUNGUS (First Year 2021)St. Augustine SOD….NEED HELP IN LOUISIANA HEAT
Preventing and defeating bad fungus is the same everywhere for all turf types. Infuse your soil w/ complex beneficial soil life. This is a self sustaining strategy that is way more effective than using fungicides. Good fungi is way stronger than bad. Every time you fertilize, do so with an organic fertilizer that builds soil life such as our Nourish-Biosol. At least twice per year use products like our Maximize, Optimize & Nourish Biosol or other soil building products like Earth Worm Castings. Water properly, keeping the soil slightly dry, but moist enough for the liking of the St Augustine.
I keep having to bring back or regrow dead grass due to mole tunnels and mounds. What is your solution for getting rid of moles? I’m more for deterring the little guys, rather than ending them.
Yikes! I'm a fan of Mole Scram or Gopher Scram. I haven't had 100% success, but I've been pleased with the impact of this product on minimizing the problem. - John Valentino
Thank you. We have a bunch of springtails in our yard. Must be a fungus
You are welcome! Focusing on boosting & feeding complex soil life should help your yard 💚
I've had recurring large patch. I live in Atlanta and have Zeon Zoysia. I only just realized it's a fungus. I thought deer were peeing in the yard, since it was perfect circles. 🤭I used Headway G Fungicide and the circles all disappeared within 2 weeks. It recommended a second app after 28 days, which I did. I have lots of worm castings and use mostly organic fertilizers and Carbon Pro G monthly. I'd like to be able to avoid using fungicide, but don't want large patch to run rampant all over my lawn.
You're in a good situation in that the fungicide worked, so you have a great fallback position. My main problem with fungicides on lawn is they don't work quickly and they don't result in a stronger, more resistant lawn. Yours worked, so use it if necessary. Knowing you have that option you can focus all your attention on inputs to build soil and lawn that is fully fortified with life so you won't need a fungicide. Use your castings, the Lesco carbon product, good soil building organic fertilizers like our Nourish-Biosol, our Maximize & Optimize, etc, etc to build complex soil life with lots of healthy fungi that are stronger than the bad fungus you have experienced. Keep building that soil; if you get the fungus again, use the fungicide since it worked, but focus on a future where you will have no need for the fungicide.
@@JohnandBobs Thank you!
Not fungus related, but I have St. Augustine invading my Zoysia. It it's spreading like wildfire. I mow low, .75", trying to knock it back. Doesn't seem to affect it at all. Do you have any ideas about what could kill it without killing the zoysia? Thank you!
@@sbender9518 You are on the right track. Keep mowing low - 3/4" is good and should be too low for St Augustine to thrive, but great for Zoysia. Also, water as little as possible to keep the Zoysia looking good - Zoysia can thrive with much less water than St Augustine. Last resort if you want to consider a chemical solution is Fusilade 2, which I have not used but have been told by others will kill St Augustine without killing Zoysia.
@@JohnandBobs Thank you so much!
My lawn looks exactly like the pictures you showed. I ordered one of your products but should have asked questions. I live in Michigan and my backyard was looking pretty good but now it's changing like my front lawn. Disease and brown looking grass. Can you recommend the products I need, please?
You need to spray/soak with mezotrion (spelling) then go buy a potassium rich fertilizer. And correct ph if needed. Then when its under control aerate then get a 5 gallon bucket order lawn spores for your lawn. There are many places that sell these cultures. Like 20 bucks and after you mezotrione apps are a month old you ad a 5 gallon bucket of your culure. Then you are gonna be good. And its cheap less then 100 bucks and you now have future of defense. This guy wants to sell you his product. Look up growing mushroom aqueous cultures. Its like 1 bucket is 50 bags of this guys stuff
@@dekonfrost7 Thank you! I'm looking for it now
So how do I go from applying fungicides to doing this naturally? Do I just stop fungicides altogether at once? Then start natural product like yours?
Yes, because the chemical fungicides will kill the good fungi you are trying to build up so you have to stop all at once. I would recommend beginning right after you usually experience the most fungus issues, so you can attempt to build up good fungi before the issues come up again.
I live in Fresno too!
🙌 😎
I live in Long Island NY and 2+ years ago i had a Kentucky bluegrass sod lawn put in. The first year or so everything was great. The lawn was thick and green and there were no problems. Towards the end of last summer the lawn began to thin in one area to the point of bare spots and is now spreading to the rest of the lawn. I don't know if this is a fungus or i have a bug problem. Also i have intermittent clover trying to take root which i have been cutting out by hand. Can you recommend a treatment plan for these problems. Thank you.
It would be very helpful to know the size of your lawn, which would allow me to make specific recommendations with quantities. In general I recommend overlooking clover problems for now and focus on feeding your soil and your lawn properly with our Nourish Biosol, Blend and Penetrate Liquid Biotiller. Focus on doing everything properly in terms of mowing, watering & feeding your soil/lawn properly in order to create a dense, resilient turf that can out compete pests, disease & weeds. After 6-12 months of this focus, if problems persist we can formulate a custom targeted solution. Thank you for your interest!
@@JohnandBobs Thank you very much for your quick response. I just ordered some of the products you recommended and in addition watched your overseeding video which I found very helpful. I think I have a plan now and will keep you posted. Thanks again!
@@anthonyspina5723 Please do keep us updated! We are happy to help. 🌱
Can't find answers to these 2 questions. Read university papers and watched UA-cam... For cool season tall fescue, when you have Grey Leaf Spot and Brown patch; ...
1) is it OK to apply Nitrogen in low dosage? I am due for Milorganite at 0.4lb of N per 1k. Right now lawn is effected by fungus that I am treating with curative rate of Azoxy and Propiconazole. Ok to apply Milorganite?
2) since dew point is crazy high and humidity as well, I am trying not to water the lawn, but we've been having 95 degree days in the past 2-3 days and 2 more days coming up. How do you balance watering and fungus when DEW point is so high and it seems like leaves never dry up, but lawn does look like it can use some water? ... though still greener than most neighbors around for the most part.
Thank you./
My inclination is to water in the scenario you describe because the goal is to keep the soil and turf as healthy as possible. You will want to water as little as possible, but as much as is needed. I believe it is good to fertilize in your situation with an anti-fungal organic soil building fertilizer, which I believe Milorganite would qualify as. Products like our Nourish-Biosol (and I believe Milorganite) are anti-fungal because they feed and encourage beneficial fungi that are way stronger than the destructive fungi plaguing you now. Hope that helps! :)
@@JohnandBobs thank you
I have had a brown dead spot on my lawn for 2 years now that I can not for the life of me get rid of. I'm really getting tempted to just buy a thing of fungicide and dump the entire thing on it and see what happens.
Fungicide won't work in the long run. Try overseeding the spot in early Spring (about now) and then feed the soil there and all around with our Blend and Penetrate Liquid Biotiller as per our video so that the soil will have beneficial microbes that can eat destructive fungus.
I ordered a bag of "Nourish Biosol", "Maximuze", and "Blend" but am unsure in which order to apply them to help with brown spots. I also bought some Kentucky Bluegrass seed. I live in northeast Colorado and the lawn sees a lot of sunshine. We did notice that in the area we are having patchy brown spots that we also occasionally get these mushrooms coming up. I water three times a week for 30 minutes each time which I don't think is excessive.
Hello Charles,
Almost always there is nothing bad about mushrooms, only that they are a nuisance, but not a sign of fungal disease. Best to seed asap and apply all 3 of our products right over the seed all at once and water appropriately to keep the seed moist during the day. If practical, apply about 1/8"thick wood based mulch or compost over the seed and our products and then start daily watering for best germination. Please feel free to keep us updated on your grass!
-John
I gat fungus every year located in Southern New Jersey..Clay type soil. I apply fungicide thought out the summer.
Have been using milorganite for a couple of years however my phosphorous is through the roof 37.83
I have 6000 sq feet of turf mix of several grass types.. Which one of your products would you recommend??
William, For that size lawn it can be expensive, but here's what I would do in order to grow a sustainable lawn that doesn't get fungal disease every year. Immediately suspend any and all chemical fungicide applications. Sometimes it takes more than one year to permanently eradicate the fungus. ASAP I would apply 50lbs of our Nourish Biosol and spray 32oz of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller right over the Nourish Biosol. 7-10days later I'd apply 80lbs of our "Blend" and 32oz of our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller over the Blend. Then I would monitor and send me photos. As we see how your lawn responds I'd also consider applying one of the new organic, beneficial bacteria fungicides from Arbico Organics like "Howler", which is very complementary with our products. There are others also, I've experimented only with Howler with pretty good results. However, I've always used it with our products and I've also had excellent results without the Howler. Thank you for your interest! -John
Is that product pet safe? Also our soil is a bit of top soil over rock.
Yes! All of our products are 100% pet & people safe 🐶💚
Had a patio installed. Contractor brought in several load of back fill. I now have horrendous brown patch. Yardn went from green to blah. Get the improve the soil concept. This is just very expensive. Found lawn to be scidic. Started lowering pH. What are your thoughts.
It can be expensive, especially if your lawn is large. How many sqft is your lawn? If your soil is acidic, that means your pH is low and we want to raise it with limestone. Do you know your pH? Provide a little more information, including type of lawn and city/State and I'll recommend the most affordable solution. -John
Yes I have fungus problem
Hi. Happy I came across your video. I'm in Northeast Ohio. Soil here has a lot of clay. Last summer and this summer, I believe I'm dealing with brown patch. In both instances, it occurred once we got high temps and little rain. What's the best way to determine a treatment plan? Should I start with getting a soil analysis done at the Penn State Extension Center? Thx.
I'm in NY and I have a lot of clay as well. How did you make out? What did you do? Thanks
Are these good combinations to treat dollar spot? My 5,000 Sq ft lawn is totally infested with it.
Hi, Love this video!! I Get dollar spot every summer, and last summer not as bad as it was a dry summer and I would irrigate early in the morning but wow this summer I have it bad, its been a weird summer thus far, I know I have a lot of thatch, I sodded this lawn back in 2009 and it's very very thick...what would you recommend? I know dollar spot is not detrimental to the grass it only effects the blades not the crown/roots and usually abates in late August/september but I would Love to not have to deal with this every summer
I'm not sure what you currently do for fertilization and soil improvement, but that is the key to address your dollar spot if you are interested in a permanent and self sustaining solution. Whenever you fertilize use our anti-fungal organic fertilizer Nourish-Biosol or equal and once or twice per year apply our Blend at about 20-25lbs per 1,000sqft. Monitor results and consider adding to the regimen once per year our Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller. If you have further questions, send us a couple photos of your lawn and specifically of the trouble spots. You can send the photos to customerservice@johnandbobs.com
dollar spot is prevalent in lawns that are low in nitrogen and potassium levels in the soil so make sure you fertilize regularly, dethatching and aerating the lawn can help prevent dollar spot as well. You can also try Bayer Advanced Fungus Control, comes in granules and a spray that you can purchase at Home Depot, Lowe's etc. put it down as a preventative BEFORE you see signs of dollar spot, in early summer right before it starts getting hot & humid in your area. You will likely need to apply it every 4 weeks up until fall when temperature and humidity levels are low.
@@2001eskimo You are correct. Interestingly, the regimen we advocate in the video will make aerifying/dethatching obsolete and unnecessary because the complex, beneficial soil microbes will aerify and dethatch on an ongoing basis. Soil life is remarkable!
I have a fungal problem in my lawn. I had brown spots. Clean out the brown spots and planted grass seeds. However my grass is not growing 😢
Many seeds won't germinate or are difficult to germinate in Summer-better in Spring&Fall. For fungal disease in turf we use our Blend at 20lbs per 1,000sqft and spray our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller over the Blend at 8oz per 1,000sqft. Two weeks later we apply our Nourish Biosol at 10lbs per 1,000sqft. If problem persists, send me photos of your lawn.
Love these products... Anyone have ideas to apply penetrate? I use an ortho hose end sprayer to apply but not sure its the best wat too much water? 6000 sq feet of lawn...
We're so glad!
So, there really is no such thing as too much water with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller. You could use a half gallon or 100 gallons of water - the water is just a carrier to spread the appropriate amount of product over the appropriate amount of area. An Ortho Hose End sprayer is an excellent and convenient way to do that regardless how much or little water you use. Thank you for the comment, and support! -J&B's
we have a fungus problem and mites is what true green told us I want to treat it myself because they wanted to charge us $500 to treat it when I said I can't afford it they brought the price down to $340. where can I get these products. We live in North Carolina along the border of SC . The weather has been really hot along with some rain.
Joanne, You can order from our online store. I'd start with a simple application of our Nourish Biosol at 10lbs per 1,000 sqft and spray over the top of our Nourish Biosol with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at 8oz per 1,000 sqft. Then 2weeks later apply Beneficial Nematodes from Arbico Organics (available online). Next Spring send me photos of your lawn and we can recommend a maintenance program. This is much different than a True Green approach which treats the problem only - ours treats the cause of the problem and creates a more sustainable lawn without constant intervention. - John & Bob's
I started a 1st time garden next to a hackberry tree (not my decision). We live in a sand/dirt area in A TX. Saw fungus on tomatoes. Trying to save all the while the hackberry leaves caught the fungus. Which was yellow spots. Sadly, we also planted young willow trees. One is dead and the other is fighting, but with the wind, this fungus spread to EVERYTHING!!!! I couldn't reach top of hackberry with spray. So small garden investment or $100 turned into hundreds of dollars saving and still failed. Can you please tell me what sprayer (reach 30' high trees) and what I can use for entire acre (we don't have grass) to stop the disease!?!?
What a frustrating and sad story - I am sorry that happened 😣 Our products can help prevent fungus in the future and spraying our Penetrate on the leaves of trees can aid in fungus & pest prevention!
We've had massive rains followed by very hot weather. All this on my newly seeded lawn. Now my baby grass has fluffy fungus. 😢😢😢 Help, please.
Hilary, thanks for reaching out. I start with an application of our "Blend" at 15-20lbs per1,000sqft depending on severity of the fungal disease and then I spray over the top of the Blend w/ our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at about 8oz per 1,000sqft. 5-8 days later I apply our Nourish Biosol at about 8lbs per 1,000sqft. All these products are anti-fungal while feeding your soil and lawn. -John
I am doing organics with Microlife products.
Are your products available in Australia. Love watching your channel thank you
Unfortunately, our products are not available in Australia at this time. We have a video for our friends in other countries who would like to mimic the effects of our products with ingredients you can find in your country. Check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/_kk2-es9i9o/v-deo.html
@@JohnandBobs Thanks John for your reply I will check that out. Chip is adorable!!
What time of day do you recommend watering? I live in Fresno and I have been told that it’s best to water very early in the morning (3-6 am) during the summer. Do you have a guide for watering times and duration throughout the year for fescue? Thanks.
What you have heard is correct, the thinking being you want to apply water with the least amount of evaporation and the best conditions for the water to soak in. Then you want the sun to come out immediately so that the surface water dries quickly and doesn't sit around and increase chance of fungal disease. The exception is when you are germinating lawn seed or watering newly planted sod. In those cases for a week or two you would want to do frequent surface watering during the day when the sun is out.
With your products, do the affected grass plants recover on their own? or have you been reseeding those areas?
Great question. It depends how much damage the fungus has done and what type of grass you have. Bermuda will come back with products. Types like blue grass and fescue you would need to reseed also.
Nice video, but I live in Nebraska and we have Kentucky bluegrass which is a cool season grass and I don’t know why it’s used in Nebraska but it is. But every year I have fungus in my yard and it is extremely bad this year, To the point where it’s big brown patches almost where the grass is completely rotted now. Lots of rain this year hot and humid. Is it OK to seed my Lawn before I would use your anti-fungicide or would I wait until after? What’s the best time to use your product in the fall or in the spring? Thanks, Eric Hansen
It sounds like you are planning to do some fall overseeding of your lawn. If so, the best time to start applying our products is in conjunction with your overseeding. Prepare your turf area, apply your cool season grass seed at 10-12lbs per 1,000sqft, then apply our Blend (proportional mixture of Optimize, Nourish-Biosol, Maximize) at about 20lbs per 1,000 sq ft right over the top of the seed. If you are using a top dress mulch, apply it over the Blend and grass seed at about 1/8" thick and then apply our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller over the top dress mulch. If no top dress, apply the Penetrate Liquid Biotiller right over the Blend and grass seed. Then next Spring we'll evaluate (send me photos) and apply products appropriately to continue building soil life - your best sustainable defense against destructive lawn fungal disease. We just made a new video about fall seeding/overseeding if you want to check that out for more detailed info: ua-cam.com/video/4l-sNMFDJnE/v-deo.html :)
I have a big problem of red thread.. based on NZ
Try generous applications of our Nourish Biosol. We've had good success in parts of the country plagued by red thread.
Hello Sir.. Iam from India..
Do you deliver your products internationally also or in US only??
Thank you for your interest! Unfortunately, at this time we only sell in the U.S. 😥
I have fungal disease now, yellow dust on my shoes and mower. Question, are the spores dangerous to breath?
No, the spores aren't dangerous to breathe. But they do result in a very depressing looking lawn.
How do I get these mixtures. Do you sell them? I'm in Canada
Unfortunately our products aren’t available in Canada. However, we made a video about this exact situation! We share what products you can use that are very similar to ours: ua-cam.com/video/_kk2-es9i9o/v-deo.htmlsi=ZiDiOkPy3SWAixUE
@@JohnandBobs thank you so much. Do I do this now that the grass is started to change to green. I have brown spots and there are weird looking leaves. Also I think my trees are getting infected.
@@higherholistic4857 you’re welcome! Yes, you can apply now. Spring is an excellent time.
Any thought on killing blastomyces in the soil?
Blastomyces is naturally occurring in moist soil w/ lots of decaying wood and organic matter. It's not advisable or practical to kill Blastomyces in soil, but rather it is best to encourage overall healthy soil with complex soil life. Proper aeration and ventilation is desirable. Furthermore, it's not productive to test soil for Blastomyces because it might not be a problem when it tests positive and it can still be problematic even when soil tests are negative. It's not an issue that can be addressed from a soil management perspective.
I have a moss appearing issue with my lawn. Very sandy soil. I think it needs some better top soil but who am I. Looking for treatment
Moss is encouraged by poor drainage and/or acid soil. The next time it rains, check those mossy areas to see if they are more water soaked or more moist than other areas, or if you have standing water. Also, if you have a local extension service, contact them, take a soil sample, and have them analyze it for PH level. If the soil is too acidic, they may recommend a limestone application rate to lessen acidity. There are also products that will kill the moss, but that will not solve whatever underlying problem you may have. Good luck.
Usually moss is caused by a combination of poor, depleted soil and an absence of light and good air circulation. I would apply our Blend at 20lbs per 1,000sq ft and combine that with tree/shrub thinning or removal to open up the area to more light.
Will my lawn come back after a fungus? Large brown areas ...grass looks burnt and dead..
Without intervention lawns gradually recover from fungal disease when seasonal weather changes. We have successfully made the recovery as short as possible by infusing the lawn w/ organic nutrition, beneficial soil life, food for life and attractants for life. These additions are also key to not getting fungus in succeeding years.
Hello John. Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us. I live in Michigan and bought a newly built home last year. Sod was installed on top of a sandy median soil. Had really hard time keeping the lawn green and being inexperienced, was watering my lawn every other day and in combination with high humidity fungus developed. Yesterday I saw a peace of my lawn has developed Powdery Mildew and a couple of mushrooms. It’s killing me. Can you please help?
Our protocol is be diligent about applying water evenly and as little as possible to meet your lawn's needs-this might require careful analysis of your irrigation system or whatever you use to apply the water. Then we infuse the soil with beneficial soil life by initially applying, at least, 20lbs per 1,000sqft of our 'Blend' and then spray right over the top of the Blend with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at 8oz per 1,000sqft. One month after, apply 10lbs per 1,000sqft of our organic anti-fungal soil building fertilizer 'Nourish Biosol'. Then take some photos and send them to me. Also, there is a relatively new organic, beneficial bacterial fungicide called 'Howler' that doesn't degrade beneficial soil life while killing destructive fungal diseases. You can order that online from Arbico Organics. Mushrooms are not a sign of any disease problem at all - just a nuisance that can be physically removed. It just means your soil/turf has abundant organic matter.
Can your product be used in clearwater Florida? My professional lawn spraying company said they’ve never seen anything like it. They have me watering 4 days a week for 1 hour each time starting at 1am. They’ve used all sorts of fertilizer and fungicide and nothing helps
Yes, our products work in Clearwater - all over the world really, but we only sell them in the US at this time. Ours is a completely different approach than what traditional lawn spraying companies are used to.
We use the power of soil microbiological life instead of chemicals that wipe out beneficial life. We believe complex soil life represents our best hope for sustainable, healthy lawns/gardens, landscapes. If you tell me the size and type of your lawn, I'd be happy to make a recommendation.
Thank you for your interest! -John
My lawn is only a few months old and I am showing signs of fungal problems. Is it to early to use any product on it? I am in Hollister CA, the heat has been higher than normal but our evenings are always a lot cooler.
Nick,
It's never too early to infuse your soil with life! That beneficial soil life is the best way to protect and defend against destructive fungal diseases. I would apply 20lbs per 1,000sqft of our Blend and spray over the top of the Blend with our Penetrate Liquid Biotiller at 8oz per 1,000sqft. - J&B's
I just put new grass on my back yard and I noticed stops that are getting about white color and the grass dry in that spot. Can I use those products since grass has been there only for 2 weeks ?
Yes, 2 weeks isn't an issue. In fact, you can use our Blend and Penetrate right before and/or immediately after sod installation. It's organic and gentle, yet powerful at the same time. Absolutely won't burn!
I have the same problem. Can you please send me the name of the products?
We recommend using our Blend and Penetrate. You can find them on our website: www.johnandbobs.com
My KBG lawn is experiencing brown/yellow spots. It is fall in Rhode Island and has been rainy lately but not overly cool yet. This was new sod, established for about 3 months. I have dethatched it, cut it high and bagged clippings, and used Scott's Turf Builder Winterguard Fall Lawn food. The spots are not improving. Would your product be helpful? I am concerned that adding more product may over fertilize the lawn.
It's not possible to over fertilize with our products or with ours and others combined. But, sometimes as we get deeper into fall immediate improvements are subtle. Right now to address the spots I would use our Nourish-Biosol at about 10lbs per 1,000sqft and then monitor and send me photos in early Spring so we can recommend a protocol to prevent/defeat future spots. You can send photos to customerservice@johnandbobs.com 😀
When I had a bluegrass lawn I had brown spots or dead spots I figured it was the cat or grub worms, scratched around couldn't find any grubs. May have been fungal wasn't sure, I just reseeded
Sometimes it can be hard to figure out what is the direct cause of the problem. One of the reasons I like our products, you don't necessarily need to know the specific cause of an issue to fix it!
No problems with disease so should I still put down something as a precaution?
Even without disease I recommend using products that build lively soil with complex soil life because that's important for ongoing long term turf health and because that is an excellent way to feed lawn for great color/appearance. I recommend using our Nourish Biosol or our Value Rich, at least, twice per year on lawns.
@@JohnandBobs I put down humichar 3x a year for the soil. I agreed that a healthy soil is key to a healthy lawn. I do a soil test once a year. I’ll have to read up on the 2 products you have mentioned. Thanx for your response and I enjoy your informative videos.
Hello I have a clover lawn. It's browning. Some areas show gray spots, others turning yellow and brown spots. Is this over watering? I'm in Texas, heat is high, I do have some mushrooms popping out in the morning. I stopped then it's gone but clovers continue to die. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you
Difficult to say categorically. Based on your location, my guess is overwatering is a factor combined with your high heat and humidity. The way to grow the most pest/disease resistant clover is to infuse your soil with beneficial soil life. Good bacteria and fungi are way stronger than destructive microbes. Build your soil to include complex, beneficial soil life - it's really powerful!
looking to rid lawn of fungal disease for good
Focusing on soil health is one of the most effective ways to rid your lawn of fungal disease!
Hello John , thanks for this video, I’m having the brown spots all over my lawn , can I have the names of these products to shop for to fight this problem..thanks
I would first apply generously our Blend (proportional mixture Optimize, Maximize, Nourish Biosol) at 20-25lbs per 1,000sq ft; then spray our Penetrate Liquid-Biotiller over the top of the Blend on the same day. One week later I would apply about 12lbs per 1,000 sq ft our Nourish-Biosol. Take photos before applying Blend and 3 weeks after applying Nourish Biosol and send to me. We'll then monitor and analyze. You can send pictures to customerservice@johnandbobs.com
I have the saddest grass (and maybe it's crab grass) and no idea what is happening to it. Can I send pictures? We are in California so subject to hot weather and drought. Do I email or chat in UA-cam?
Yes, send me photos and I'll direct you appropriately. Send via email to customerservice@johnandbobs.com !
I have fungus problem in some new tall fescue sod I installed in April down here in Bakersfield, CA. I believe the water is sitting on top of the sod (not penetrating). Applied a fungicide. Any thoughts
on how I can correct? Thanks
My preferred method for preventing and defeating fungus in turf starts with not using a fungicide. Fungicides kill beneficial fungi, which are our best hope for keeping our lawn disease free year after year. Second priority is to dry out the lawn as much as possible while still providing just enough moisture. Third, I generously apply our Blend and our Penetrate-Liquid Biotiller to infuse the soil with beneficial soil microbes. Don't over water, regular, proper mowing (use mulching mower) and build lively soil are all key to preventing/defeating fungus and all other pests and diseases.
From Bakersfield too,
Thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching :)
I get brown spots in the summer. It’s in a spot that a tree stood at one time. The spot is mounded up a little. What can I do to it?
Difficult to tell without seeing a photo. Send me a photo or two and I might be able to provide a better diagnosis. Your description here makes me think there is insufficient soil and too many roots or tree remains to properly support healthy grass. I recommend you dig out that high spot, grade it properly with soil and then either let your existing grass spread into that area or re-plant new grass.
You can send me photos here: www.johnandbobs.com/pages/customer-service
I have a fungus this year and i have shut my water off. When i get down close to the lawn it is brown under the green blades which is not thatch yet it seems very moist and wet. But my question is can you plug 3" the lawn if you have fungus? How can i get rid of the fungus? I have been cutting my cool season grass at 4-1/2" to almost 5" and i have been thinking to slowly cut that down to 2" to help with it drying out. would that be a good idea? the grass is green but the entire yard has a light green yellow look to it. Last year and the year before that the yard was very green and looked good but it did look like it may have had thatch so we de-thatched and yard has looked this way. I put down a lot of nitrogen and the grass does get greener but grows like mad and when i cut it the yellowish look is shown. Need help please
As weather cools it is a good idea to reduce mowing height to 2.5 or 3". Keep moisture on the light side, but you will probably have to water some. Apply our Blend and Nourish Biosol generously to infuse your soil with beneficial soil life. This time of the year you can begin to "plug" weak spots in your lawn. - John
You helped me determine the brown spots in my otherwise still green yard as brown patch, but where I’m confused is, they didn’t start showing up until fall. It’s cool enough in central Texas to stay below 80, but the patches are getting worse. Will your products help here?
I have light brown spots...orangish brown color...and large round dead grass spots on my lawn. My yard was treated once by a friend with weed and feed....but now my lawn is worse. I dont blame anyone...its just error 😔. I also have fungi and pest disease I think. Please HELP. I need to know what to put in my lawn...to get it back healthy. I live on the East of the country (US). Its the beginning of summer...June so what can I do to correct all this.
I recommend you topically apply 10lbs per 1,000 sq of our Nourish-Biosol, then two weeks after application take 2 or 3 photos and send them to me at customerservice@johnandbobs.com . We will then analyze and determine if you need to take further action to address your fungal issues and overall turf health.
I live on Shields and Locan, noticed you guys were on highland. Do you sell the nourish biosol anywhere in town where I can pick up? Or is it online orders only? In urgent need starting to experience fungal issue on my new construction tall fescue.
Mike - Belmont Nursery, Green Hills Nursery & Riverside Nursery sell some of our products, but I don't know if any of them sell our Nourish Biosol. You can buy it directly from us if you call our office in advance 559-291-4419 and set it up with Austin.
Thank you for your interest and support!
I’m in central Florida and laid Saint Augustine Pro Vista last October and as far as I know I think I got dollar spot twice so far .what do you recommend for me to use
I like to use our Blend and our Penetrate together and then follow 3 weeks later with our Nourish Biosol. If you can pinpoint the time of the year the dollar spot is most prevalent, consider using a new, organic fungicide made from beneficial bacteria about 2 weeks before. It's called 'Howler' and its available from Arbico Organics online. It doesn't damage soil like chemical fungicides.
@@JohnandBobs so what is the name of your blend and penetrate
@@williamvankessel7775 Our Blend is called "Blend"- it is 1 part Optimize, 2 parts Nourish Biosol, 3 parts Maximize. Our Penetrate full name is Penetrate Liquid Biotiller.
We live in South Texas, have St Augustine grass. We have fungus. I just purchased the blend to apply as well as the fertilizer. How soon after putting the blend down for the fungus problems can I put the fertilizer down? I am trying to bring back a lawn that was 80% weeds two years ago, it is about 50% weeds now, so it is getting better. I just don't really know what I am doing lol
Michelle, We just noticed that you bought Value Rich (not Nourish Biosol), which is fine. The same timing applies to the Value Rich after Blend.
- J&B's
oh no! Can the order be changed and you switch it out for the correct product?
@@michellewilson1221 Michelle - we have switched it out! 😊
If the only cure for a destructive fungus is a protective one, then it’s contradictory to call your lawn supplement “anti-fungal”.
That is a valid point....maybe we should call it "anti-bad-fungal" 🤔
tycox : Nope, sh/be Lawn Fungal Vaccine
I am just outside of Houston where is gets hot and we get times of too much rain or too little. I have a lot of mature trees So mostly shade with some areas getting sun most of the day Every summer we get fungus we have Sandy soil and moles. We have dogs so worry about pesticides Any suggestions?
I recommend you start by applying our organic anti-fungal fertilizer/soil builder Nourish Biosol at 10-12lbs per 1,000sq ft. Monitor for 3-4 weeks after application and see if improvements occur. Send me photos after 4 weeks and then we can determine next steps. You can find Nourish-Biosol here: www.johnandbobs.com/products/nourish
You can send me photos here: www.johnandbobs.com/pages/customer-service
Thank you! I did not get a notification but just saw this and while we didn’t get that in we did last year I still have some fungus just starting in areas I have been using natural products and we always have tons of worms ( even with the moles) Will take some before and after pics and send thank you!
We have moss growing over the entire yard…and some sort of black fungus. What would you recommend? I hear different opinions on moss, some people say it’s better than grass, some argue with that. I personally don’t mind it, but just wondering if we need to get rid of it or if it’s causing the black fungus.
The black fungus sounds like slime mold caused by extended wetness / poor drainage. Moss can be caused by excessive shade, compact soils, and poorly drained soils….so more than likely the two are connected. If you don’t care about keeping the moss then I would recommend you prune plants/trees to let as much light to the area as possible. Aerate the soil by removing the moss, then ripping or tilling the area to improve the exchange of air and water. Then use our John & Bob’s Blend and Penetrate Liquid Bio-tiller to infuse the soil with beneficial life. Avoid stagnation of water to prevent it from reoccurring.
Well that doesnt work in the south with 100+ temps and 80% humidity :(
It will work in the South if it's a year long endeavor and the heart&soul of all your gardening/landscape practices. Focus on your soil, make it full of complex micro-biological life! -John
Are you in the north?
Hi there! Our main site is based out of Fresno, California - so really, we're right in the middle. (Central California)
Thanks for the comment, J&B's
I started out with big brown patches and now they look burnt
Good morning, the lawn has it's weed defense's in place however I have knotweed that jus will not go away. If I add the antifungal treatment am I feeding the pesky knotweed? As well as how do I get rid of the knotweed
Feed your lawn with our anti fungal fertilizers and soil builders and that will not invigorate the knotweed. Make your lawn and soil just as strong and vibrant as possible to put up a good fight against the knotweed. Combine that with frequent mowing and that's the best way to manage the knotweed ( although it won't eradicate it). Knotweed is very difficult to eradicate. The best way to completely eradicate it is with 3 or 4 applications of glyphosate (Roundup or equal) each 2 weeks apart. That will kill the knotweed and the lawn. Then you you will need to remove and re-sod or re-seed.
@@JohnandBobs thank you young sir for the quick response. I will certainly send results your way .thank you for your page, and videos. Such amazing work
@@adalbertojulia3448 You are most welcome! We are happy to help :)