I wanted an easy way to map out dog holes in my workbench and couldn't draw a grid because of a finished surface, so I decided to make a jig. I had a couple failures when trying to make a jig sandwich in the corner instead of only having a front-guide. I realized it would be easier with a single guide. This is similar to a rocker product except I didn't want to spend money on a one or two time use jig. I used the Milescraft handheld drill press attachment but an alternative would be a router pattern bit of some sort. The size of the jig and spacing of each hole will of course vary depending on your workbench. Most people base the sizing off the max extension of their pony vise. Here are dimensions of my jig: top plate: - 14" long - 12" wide - 5" front to center hole spacing - 4" side and rear center hole spacing - 3" spacing between holes edge guide: - 14" long - 1" wide
My bench top is just stained. Maybe you could use a Forstner to start and come back afterwards to finish it with an auger or spade. I’m not sure what would chip laminate or not. Another option would be starting with a router. I’ve seen people trim laminate with routers so that’s probably the cleanest option. You may have to make a laminate test piece or test an inconspicuous corner.
By measuring from the edges. The jig has square edges after being cut on the miter saw so measuring from the edges will make the holes aligned with each other.
I’m not sure why an ingenious method is needed to measure the grid on the jig. By making a jig with square edges, all you need to do is measure distance from the edges for the jig holes. The point of the jig is to have consistent measurements between holes on a workbench without drawing a grid on the workbench.
@@fangerwoodworking one of the holes being out by a fraction of a millimeter renders the dog holes usless for the purposes of square cross cuts using a fence and tracksaw, which is something I am looking to add to my workbench. If you don't require this accuracy, that's fine, but it doesn't change the fact I left disappointed when you showed no accurate way of spacing and aligning the jigs holes.
If that’s the case, you should look at investing in a shaper origin because you can use machine and computer accuracy to perfectly cut the grid across your workbench. I don’t think a jig would be the right approach - because even if the jig was perfect, any play in the drill bit size or dog size will compound across the workbench as you drill holes.
James is correct. This a just dog holes with no real purpose without accuracy. You never even demonstrated how square the holes lined up. There are better ways using the 3, 4 , 5 exact triangle (Peter Parf) or buying a CNC cut jig. These can be purchased for £50 here in the UK
@@Selkian That's incorrect. The purpose of the dog holes, in my use case, is to allow for dog hole clamps and prevent items from sliding while using a domino or biscuit joiner, but keeping them consistent on spacing and distance from edges. Buying a dog hole jig would be a great option because they have machine accuracy on spacing and squareness so you don't have to worry about that. This video shows how to easily make a simple jig with scraps if you just want to add consistently spaced dog holes to a bench without spending money on a jig. Not everyone requires the accuracy, for dog holes, that you two are describing, so this video is meant for them.
It’s curious why some presenters, who would dearly like viewers to subscribe, choose a earsplitting soundtrack that is nothing but noise and completely detracts from content, content that might otherwise be appealing. Once the noise began….I bailed!
I wanted an easy way to map out dog holes in my workbench and couldn't draw a grid because of a finished surface, so I decided to make a jig. I had a couple failures when trying to make a jig sandwich in the corner instead of only having a front-guide. I realized it would be easier with a single guide. This is similar to a rocker product except I didn't want to spend money on a one or two time use jig. I used the Milescraft handheld drill press attachment but an alternative would be a router pattern bit of some sort.
The size of the jig and spacing of each hole will of course vary depending on your workbench. Most people base the sizing off the max extension of their pony vise.
Here are dimensions of my jig:
top plate:
- 14" long
- 12" wide
- 5" front to center hole spacing
- 4" side and rear center hole spacing
- 3" spacing between holes
edge guide:
- 14" long
- 1" wide
Simple, accurate and cheap. Great job
Really useful, thanks! Quick question, is it formica laminate? Wondering if I use an auger bit instead of forstner, would it chip out laminate?
My bench top is just stained. Maybe you could use a Forstner to start and come back afterwards to finish it with an auger or spade. I’m not sure what would chip laminate or not. Another option would be starting with a router. I’ve seen people trim laminate with routers so that’s probably the cleanest option. You may have to make a laminate test piece or test an inconspicuous corner.
@@fangerwoodworkingyes, probably will consider a router first. Thanks for the advice!
You should space the holes at 96 or 100mm. Most accessories are made following that standard.
No such accessories are made to that standard. Accessories are adjustable to any size especially for MFT tables.
Nice video but for my ears it is harder to hear what you are saying w the music playing.
Horrible, loud music and no explanation of how you managed to drill the holes in the guide on center.
By measuring from the edges. The jig has square edges after being cut on the miter saw so measuring from the edges will make the holes aligned with each other.
Came hoping to see an ingenious way of drilling the holes in the jig at perfect centres and in perfect alignment, left disappointed.
I’m not sure why an ingenious method is needed to measure the grid on the jig. By making a jig with square edges, all you need to do is measure distance from the edges for the jig holes. The point of the jig is to have consistent measurements between holes on a workbench without drawing a grid on the workbench.
@@fangerwoodworking one of the holes being out by a fraction of a millimeter renders the dog holes usless for the purposes of square cross cuts using a fence and tracksaw, which is something I am looking to add to my workbench. If you don't require this accuracy, that's fine, but it doesn't change the fact I left disappointed when you showed no accurate way of spacing and aligning the jigs holes.
If that’s the case, you should look at investing in a shaper origin because you can use machine and computer accuracy to perfectly cut the grid across your workbench. I don’t think a jig would be the right approach - because even if the jig was perfect, any play in the drill bit size or dog size will compound across the workbench as you drill holes.
James is correct. This a just dog holes with no real purpose without accuracy. You never even demonstrated how square the holes lined up. There are better ways using the 3, 4 , 5 exact triangle (Peter Parf) or buying a CNC cut jig. These can be purchased for £50 here in the UK
@@Selkian That's incorrect. The purpose of the dog holes, in my use case, is to allow for dog hole clamps and prevent items from sliding while using a domino or biscuit joiner, but keeping them consistent on spacing and distance from edges. Buying a dog hole jig would be a great option because they have machine accuracy on spacing and squareness so you don't have to worry about that. This video shows how to easily make a simple jig with scraps if you just want to add consistently spaced dog holes to a bench without spending money on a jig. Not everyone requires the accuracy, for dog holes, that you two are describing, so this video is meant for them.
Promo SM 😑
It’s curious why some presenters, who would dearly like viewers to subscribe, choose a earsplitting soundtrack that is nothing but noise and completely detracts from content, content that might otherwise be appealing.
Once the noise began….I bailed!