Would be nice to see a video on how to adjust the airsuspension leveling system via the diagnostic tool, can’t find anything about this on the internet. Great videos!
Alex Awesomesauce Beaudry, Non at the moment, just bought an f11 and currently researching obd tools and programs for it. If you guys have any recomandations i’ll gladly hear them!
Having to code a battery is a joke...coding was pretty much the germans way of getting money out of folk after OBD access became widely available to the public at large via cheap scanners...be coding air freshmers and tyre next 🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄
Just bought the same charger... I think mine might be on the way out. That or just the occasional use and short trips. Still I was going to suggest you link up an Amazon page listing products you’ve bought or found useful. Get some kick backs 👍🏻
In addition to this you should always code the new battery to the car. And crucial step before coding is to make sure your that car is programmed for the correct battery specifications (battery type and specs). That's where ISTA comes handy.
Sorry for being late to this train, but I have a question. Do I have to code anything if I will try to charge my battery using battery charger and connecting it through the ports under the hood? (I do not want to replace battery)
@@xxGrandaSxx for charging you dont have to code anything. Coding is necessary when replacing the battery which has different parameters from your current battery. (80AH to 100AH for example) Registration is necessary when replacing the old battery with new identical battery (80AH to 80AH for example)
I use a Ctek mxs 5.0 on my M5 which yes has stop start lol , also to note when you get the exact battery you also have to code it to the car so that the car knows how much to ask the alternator to charge the battery.
My E65 still has its original AGM battery. The date code (underneath) is in 2004. About once a year I charge it with a continous 13.5 volts for about a week. That brings the voltage back to over 12.5. The car often sits for weeks and has never failed to start.
So what is an AGM battery and why are manufacturers using them? BMW also say the battery has to be calibrated or coded to the car. Are you aware of this?
Yes, perhaps I should have talked about that too. It doesn’t need ‘coding’ as such... but a new battery needs to be ‘registered’ with the car. This tells the vehicle the battery details (eg. 100Ah, 950CCA, date installed), and the point is so that the car can charge it most effectively. I believe an older battery, perhaps with every so slightly different parameters, would need a different rate of charge to keep it up to scratch versus a new battery. That’s the theory as I understand it anyway 👍
Most PSA cars use a standard lead acid battery as PSA cars have included an ultra-capacitor instead, to reduce wear and tear on the battery. It might have been added in by a previous owner.
You're probably my best source of DIY work on the F10 model. QQ, does this vehicle only have the under carriage ground cable or is there another one in the engine compartment?
The chain broke at 166k (miles) and no I’m not really racey, but not slow either. I was doing a steady 40mph when it actually went. I do wonder if the stop/start engine function adds to the chain stress each time the starter motor activates... It’s probably not a bad idea to at least start thinking about your timing chain if you’re around 150k perhaps? 🤔
Does anybody knows if the Engine in BMW g30 - 530d - diesel engine, is it better than F10 = 530d engine? IS there improvement or same shit? Can someone explain, which one is better?
Hello, I have the same model and I have a problem with refueling when I drive up to the distributor I want to refuel with fuel but the gun shoots as if I had a full tank and it is not, because I do not know what is happening and there is no fuel and I can not refuel only when she pressed gently and I fill it slowly so I can otherwise suck the fuel back if I have a clogged vent
The old chargers that looks like they were made in the 70s should be BINNED! OK? Don't use them. It is that easy. Buy a new one with short-circuit protection etc. and which handles modern batteries like AGMs etc. CTek 7000 f.ex. is a good model.
Good video. Let us know how you get on with the OB2 reader and it’s functionality. I noticed you coded the battery via software. I’m debating between buying an OB2 or just going down the OEM software laptop / tablet route.
Well I wanted a small, robust tool to use on a wide range of vehicles. However, for BMW’s you might as well use an ENET cable + ISTA D which you can download off the web. This gives you a very powerful range of diagnostics & coding possibilities. I’ll do a quick video showing what the OBDII tool can do soon, however in this instance ISTA is waaaay more powerful.
Was that 90Ah as before? Here in FIN my F11 came with 105Ah and I replaced it with the same sized. Needed some coding with the car to make it "learn" it had a new battery, well went by when I serviced the car.
Its a bit strange. Since I own my F11 - 3 and half years now I was using standard charger to charge the battery. I would say 5 times maybe more I charged it. I believe it is AGM but will double check. Never had any issue though. When connected to istaD I do get code battery faulty or worn out but its been like this since I bought the car
The battery on my F31 started to get lazy. I have a Yuassa smart charger that has a desulfate function. I ran this mode on the battery and bang, the life is back in the battery. Starts like a new battery now. The function is meant to run when a battery is a year old
Alas this is the problem with modern cars, and I’m sorry to hear of your woes after so much effort, for modern DIYers the biggest issue is becoming the availability of data and general information. Even with diagnostic tools, you need wiring diagrams and you also need to understand how the systems work and interact, which data is normal and which is not - the efforts to decrease emissions means more cars have shorter lifespans, in my opinion (which is worthless) as they become to complex and expensive to diagnose and fix.
Basically every stop start car will have an AGM or EFB battery also many of this cars after fitting a new battery you need to program the battery to the car
@@TheGerry53 some cars you need to plug In an OBD tool for example Halfords uses one called iMat some other cars like some VAG products turning the wheel full lock from side to side will clear the errors from a battery change so it really depends on the car
Not all, Peugeot / Citroen uses an Ultracapcitor to reduce cycle loads. I have no idea why other car manufacturers don't use it as it is a lifetime part and then you can use standard lead acid batteries
I really wonder what all that work youve done so far would have cost you in a bmw shop with original parts and labor time.... maybe you can guess that :)
I never did in the end. I don’t think it really makes a big difference. I’m sure a BMW fanboy will come along and tell me it’s a catastrophic mistake... 😂🙄
@@Nut_Job. I've had a few BMWs over the years e39s e46 e60 and e65 and for the later ones found the registration necessary. Anyway I have the change battery message, does that clear when you replace it?
Ignition wouldn’t stay on. It refused to try cranking on pressing the start button. The two persistent faults which wouldn’t go away were ‘starter relay sticking’ and an open circuit on all 6 glow plugs... I ended up replacing 3 different relays & also my glow plug controller. I also replaced the battery, tried disconnecting my IBS sensor.... and eventually the car sparked into life! I’m still not completely convinced I’ve solved the underlying issue, but I’m fairly certain I knackered my battery in the process, so I thought I’d share what I found out in case it helps someone 👍
@@Nut_Job. Your starter relay is non replaceable. it's soldered onto the PCB of the CAS module under your dash, driver side. You can actually get away with using a standard lead-acid battery if you code the car. change the VO of the car to contain a lead-acid battery of the right capacity instead of an AGM and then code the CAS module and do the battery initialisation again. The problem lies in the fact that AGM battery's can withstand more peak load over longer periods of time. Lead-acid battery's don't but if you code the car for a lead-acid battery it will adapt the usage of electrical systems, thus the load on the battery, to the point where it won't cause any issues.
Would be nice to see a video on how to adjust the airsuspension leveling system via the diagnostic tool, can’t find anything about this on the internet.
Great videos!
NCS expert for the win
Alex Awesomesauce Beaudry, Non at the moment, just bought an f11 and currently researching obd tools and programs for it. If you guys have any recomandations i’ll gladly hear them!
af_prod you can use inpa to lower the car
Wow so useful. Messed with cars for years and never come across this issue. This is a learning point - thank you.
Sorry to hear this mate hopefully your troubles are over
And registering the battery in the system
Having to code a battery is a joke...coding was pretty much the germans way of getting money out of folk after OBD access became widely available to the public at large via cheap scanners...be coding air freshmers and tyre next 🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄
I know... 🤣🤣
This is the case on any car that comes with AGM and you can still DIY if you download carly and use a carly obd2 bluetooth scanner
Most cars with stop/start use these these AGM batteries and have to be programmed to the car too
Just bought the same charger... I think mine might be on the way out. That or just the occasional use and short trips. Still I was going to suggest you link up an Amazon page listing products you’ve bought or found useful. Get some kick backs 👍🏻
In addition to this you should always code the new battery to the car. And crucial step before coding is to make sure your that car is programmed for the correct battery specifications (battery type and specs). That's where ISTA comes handy.
Yes, this is very important for the long term health of the battery 👍
@@Nut_Job. i have a question.....the e38 must be programed to ...when changing battery ? 🙄🙄🙄🙄
@@TheRazvy1990 no, you don't have to program/code battery on E38/E39/E46, they dont have battery management systems (IBS) like newer models
Sorry for being late to this train, but I have a question. Do I have to code anything if I will try to charge my battery using battery charger and connecting it through the ports under the hood? (I do not want to replace battery)
@@xxGrandaSxx for charging you dont have to code anything.
Coding is necessary when replacing the battery which has different parameters from your current battery.
(80AH to 100AH for example)
Registration is necessary when replacing the old battery with new identical battery (80AH to 80AH for example)
I use a Ctek mxs 5.0 on my M5 which yes has stop start lol , also to note when you get the exact battery you also have to code it to the car so that the car knows how much to ask the alternator to charge the battery.
Hi mate can you please make a video with auxiliary battery on 530d
My E65 still has its original AGM battery. The date code (underneath) is in 2004. About once a year I charge it with a continous 13.5 volts for about a week. That brings the voltage back to over 12.5. The car often sits for weeks and has never failed to start.
That’s brilliant 👍
E65 is a v12 bi turbo? 1000nm? 626bhp?
So what is an AGM battery and why are manufacturers using them? BMW also say the battery has to be calibrated or coded to the car. Are you aware of this?
Yes, perhaps I should have talked about that too. It doesn’t need ‘coding’ as such... but a new battery needs to be ‘registered’ with the car. This tells the vehicle the battery details (eg. 100Ah, 950CCA, date installed), and the point is so that the car can charge it most effectively. I believe an older battery, perhaps with every so slightly different parameters, would need a different rate of charge to keep it up to scratch versus a new battery.
That’s the theory as I understand it anyway 👍
just go buy a bike, you spent a fortune on parts, thanks God you at least repair them by yourself.
My wee pug has it, stop start engine, very temperamental, interesting to know though if your battery did go flat over the winter.
Most PSA cars use a standard lead acid battery as PSA cars have included an ultra-capacitor instead, to reduce wear and tear on the battery. It might have been added in by a previous owner.
Thanks for posting this.
You're probably my best source of DIY work on the F10 model. QQ, does this vehicle only have the under carriage ground cable or is there another one in the engine compartment?
I think there’s another big ground in the boot/trunk area, but I think that’s the only main one to the right hand side of the gearbox 👍
Very usefull thanks
Question, How many miles were you at when time chain broke? Do you consider yourself a racy driver? Thanks
The chain broke at 166k (miles) and no I’m not really racey, but not slow either. I was doing a steady 40mph when it actually went. I do wonder if the stop/start engine function adds to the chain stress each time the starter motor activates...
It’s probably not a bad idea to at least start thinking about your timing chain if you’re around 150k perhaps? 🤔
Nut Job I appreciate your insight!
thanks for the video
Does anybody knows if the Engine in BMW g30 - 530d - diesel engine, is it better than F10 = 530d engine? IS there improvement or same shit? Can someone explain, which one is better?
thank you for all your amazing videos, im using them when im fixing my f11 535dt here in norway!
Awesome 😎👍
@@Nut_Job. are you on facebook? i have a couple of fault codes on my car i would like to ask your opion on..
Hello, I have the same model and I have a problem with refueling when I drive up to the distributor I want to refuel with fuel but the gun shoots as if I had a full tank and it is not, because I do not know what is happening and there is no fuel and I can not refuel only when she pressed gently and I fill it slowly so I can otherwise suck the fuel back if I have a clogged vent
The old chargers that looks like they were made in the 70s should be BINNED! OK? Don't use them. It is that easy. Buy a new one with short-circuit protection etc. and which handles modern batteries like AGMs etc. CTek 7000 f.ex. is a good model.
Do you know where the f11 sos battery is located
Sorry, I’ve never heard of that?
I need a new battery as well. What exactly did you use pls
Another excellent informative video Thanks
Good video. Let us know how you get on with the OB2 reader and it’s functionality. I noticed you coded the battery via software. I’m debating between buying an OB2 or just going down the OEM software laptop / tablet route.
Well I wanted a small, robust tool to use on a wide range of vehicles. However, for BMW’s you might as well use an ENET cable + ISTA D which you can download off the web. This gives you a very powerful range of diagnostics & coding possibilities.
I’ll do a quick video showing what the OBDII tool can do soon, however in this instance ISTA is waaaay more powerful.
@@Nut_Job. is ista d free of charge? What's the best cable to buy to use with it please?
Great content, jolly good show. Thank you for making the mistakes before I do, on my 530d f11.
Was that 90Ah as before? Here in FIN my F11 came with 105Ah and I replaced it with the same sized. Needed some coding with the car to make it "learn" it had a new battery, well went by when I serviced the car.
Its a bit strange. Since I own my F11 - 3 and half years now I was using standard charger to charge the battery. I would say 5 times maybe more I charged it. I believe it is AGM but will double check. Never had any issue though. When connected to istaD I do get code battery faulty or worn out but its been like this since I bought the car
I've still got the original battery from when it left the factory quite some years ago and never charged it. It's still at 85% capacity
Thanks for info. It helps a lot.
CTEK will solve with AGR Mode💪✌️
The battery on my F31 started to get lazy. I have a Yuassa smart charger that has a desulfate function. I ran this mode on the battery and bang, the life is back in the battery. Starts like a new battery now. The function is meant to run when a battery is a year old
Greetings from finland. Great video !!!
How about get rid of the AGM & just put a quality regular battery on
It won’t cope with the engine start/stop system.
@@Nut_Job. wow that was quick oh right that makes sense I've never had stop start just wauldent want it to be honest
I always turned mine off because I hated it… but the battery system is designed to monitor/maintain charge for it.
@@Nut_Job. never had a car with it on I'm to old school E39 e60
Thanks! very informative.
Thanks for the great knowledge share once again thanks
Alas this is the problem with modern cars, and I’m sorry to hear of your woes after so much effort, for modern DIYers the biggest issue is becoming the availability of data and general information. Even with diagnostic tools, you need wiring diagrams and you also need to understand how the systems work and interact, which data is normal and which is not - the efforts to decrease emissions means more cars have shorter lifespans, in my opinion (which is worthless) as they become to complex and expensive to diagnose and fix.
You hit the nail on the head there Rob 👍
All cars with stop/start are AGM, not just bmws
I presume you had to register (program the car) to tell it you changed the battery?
Yes, via my laptop + ISTA D 👍
Nut Job would make for a good video that!
Basically every stop start car will have an AGM or EFB battery also many of this cars after fitting a new battery you need to program the battery to the car
yes it would be nice to know how to register the battery to the car ....
@@TheGerry53 some cars you need to plug In an OBD tool for example Halfords uses one called iMat some other cars like some VAG products turning the wheel full lock from side to side will clear the errors from a battery change so it really depends on the car
Not all, Peugeot / Citroen uses an Ultracapcitor to reduce cycle loads. I have no idea why other car manufacturers don't use it as it is a lifetime part and then you can use standard lead acid batteries
@@TheGerry53 BMW you can code battery using Carly app but in full version
I really wonder what all that work youve done so far would have cost you in a bmw shop with original parts and labor time.... maybe you can guess that :)
My calculator doesn’t have enough digits for that! 🤣
@@Nut_Job. hahah good one :D
Thought you said long story short ? ZZZZZZZZZ
can be expensive mistake...
AGM for start/stop vehicles. No jumping either with another car while running. AGM batts don’t like the high Amp charging.
How did you register your battery?
I never did in the end. I don’t think it really makes a big difference. I’m sure a BMW fanboy will come along and tell me it’s a catastrophic mistake... 😂🙄
@@Nut_Job. I've had a few BMWs over the years e39s e46 e60 and e65 and for the later ones found the registration necessary. Anyway I have the change battery message, does that clear when you replace it?
What problems did It give you ?
Ignition wouldn’t stay on. It refused to try cranking on pressing the start button. The two persistent faults which wouldn’t go away were ‘starter relay sticking’ and an open circuit on all 6 glow plugs... I ended up replacing 3 different relays & also my glow plug controller. I also replaced the battery, tried disconnecting my IBS sensor.... and eventually the car sparked into life! I’m still not completely convinced I’ve solved the underlying issue, but I’m fairly certain I knackered my battery in the process, so I thought I’d share what I found out in case it helps someone 👍
@@Nut_Job. Your starter relay is non replaceable. it's soldered onto the PCB of the CAS module under your dash, driver side.
You can actually get away with using a standard lead-acid battery if you code the car. change the VO of the car to contain a lead-acid battery of the right capacity instead of an AGM and then code the CAS module and do the battery initialisation again. The problem lies in the fact that AGM battery's can withstand more peak load over longer periods of time. Lead-acid battery's don't but if you code the car for a lead-acid battery it will adapt the usage of electrical systems, thus the load on the battery, to the point where it won't cause any issues.
@@arnobruynen6073 And add a ventilation hose and fan to remove any gases that could cause fire