REAL Motor Oil Wear Testing - Actual Laboratory Results
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2023
- Zinc (AKA ZDDP) is an anti-wear in motor oils, but the amount of ZDDP in motor oil varies. As such, there is much debate as to how important the levels of ZDDP are to engine protection, so we've put ZDDP to the test at the world's leading motor oil research laboratory. Utilizing actual engine parts, the wear test method accurately replicates actual engine wear.
In this video STLE Certified Lubrication Specialist Lake Speed Jr provides the results!
For more from the Motor Oil Geek, check out • Motor Oil & Lubrication
Here's the link to the Mobil 1 15W-50 Video: • 15W-50 MOBIL1 Reviewed...
Here's the link to the Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 Video: • Is The NEW Valvoline V...
Here's part one of this video series: • Is more ZINC better? C...
Here's a link to more test results from Southwest Research: • What The Heck Happened...
#motoroil #zinc #engine #wear - Авто та транспорт
Another fantastic video. I've learned more about motor oil in the last week watching your videos than I had amassed through 40 years of trial and error. And there were some pretty catastrophic errors !
Had the engine in my 58 cadillac rebuilt for the 1st time a few years ago. Excessive blow by....I know it was the 1st time as my parents bought the car in 1960. When i picked it up they told me it had Castrol Gtx 20 50 in it. I was surprised about the heavy oil, but the fellow who did the job was 72 years old and had been rebuilding engines for almost 50 years. Anyway I changed it to castrol 10 40 and all has been well, except I worry about low zddp numbers in modern oil. I definitely will Try this though. I'm in Southern California so temp here is no issue for this weight oil. It did seem to run fine on the 20 50 oil he put in it. I have a 94 trans am I bought new, at around 250.000 miles i noticed at idle the oil pressure Was lower than usual. I took it to my mechanic, he said put 20 50 wt in it. So i did, and pressure improved significantly. This was about 10 years ago. Still running 20 50 in it, it still running great, sounds fine, uses no oil , its always been changed every 3000 miles. Castrol GTX. 338.000 miles now! Engine never been touched, Still has the original timing chain.
Cool content, thanks for bringing clarification to this subject.
absolutely love this type information, thanks so much for your time and effort to put it all together.
Content like this is what we all want to see. How about some RP HPS oil next time would really love to hear more about this oil. Also the Lucus 30 Plus oil
Always clear concise explanation. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation. Very useful insight. Cheers
Thanks for watching!
Zinc is not the lubricant, it is the phosphate that coats the iron oxide and prevented metal-to-metal contact. Once the phosphate is transferred to iron, zinc becomes a contaminant that forms a white sludge in the oil pan. Blow-by and water vapors form acids with the freed zinc.
That is correct Zinc itself is not providing antiwear protection, it is the Phosphorus in the ZDDP additive that does. However, the vast majority of people don’t know that, but they have heard that “Zinc” is an important additive.
Isn't it the calcium sulphate that coats and casts against wear?
@@themotoroilgeekso the zinc will become a contaminant and leave a white sludge in the oil pan? Not good.
Thanks for giving us all this great information
My pleasure
@@themotoroilgeekhence the reason why I use Mineral HD diesel oil ( rated for construction machinery) 15w40 like the Castrol CRB for my 3kw petrol genset. Diesel engine oils are renowned for their superior protection and high zinc content
Fantastic info. I've been waiting on this. I'm soo glad to see a AFFORDABLE old school oil become soo readily available. Thanx lake
Glad it was helpful!
Love the work you do. Looks like I'm👍 doing the right steps.
Thanks 👍
Years ago I looked at engine oil as an oily liquid that has some Zinc in it and other additives and more additives = better. Thats all I knew and nobody told me any better.
Your content really helps me and others understand that engine oil is a lot more than that.
I did not know how carefully engineered modern engine oils really are and how there are multiple additves in it with different purposes and some work together in synergy like ZDDP and Molybdenum and others actually work against each other in a way like Calcium and ZDDP.
Surface competition was unknown to me until a few weeks ago.
These videos are an amazing way to educate the layman about engine oil in an understandable way.
The GTX Classic also has a bit more Moly in it than the standard GTX (124ppm vs. 75ppm). Is that enough to make a difference?
Thanks for the comment. I'm glad the videos are helpful. In regards to the Moly level difference, 50ppm is not significant.
This is an awesome comparison of new vs old oil and how much it has changed due to emissions standards of today. Would love to see a test like this on Royal Purple or Redline or Amsoil. Thanks for your hard work and analysis testing.
Great suggestion!
This testing would have me on every episode if you did an episode of all the big hitters. How penzoil ultra platinum compares to mobile 1, to redline, amsoil,motul, Quaker state and others.
Amsoil does very high on all the testing I have seen
Thanks for the video and results, Lake. I like the ring-on-liner test as it's a real world simulation. I would like to emphasize that this only looks at abrasive wear but not all engine wear is abrasive wear, that corrosive wear is also a big factor. Especially with older engines, like the classic is designed for, likely aren't tuned the best with out of the box or old carburetors, don't have that great of ring seal with old and worn (or no longer existent) hones and thick rings, and thus issues from blow-by gases and fuel and water dilution are more present. Strong acids like hydrochloric acid can form which will corrode the iron liner. This is likely why there's such as high amount of calcium-based detergent in the classic compared to the regular GTX, on top of not having to worry about LSPI issues even though the high amount of ZDDP would likely counter and quench any LSPI. For some viewers wondering, why not just eliminate the detergent and let ZDDP do its thing, because you can't for an engine that sees continuous street use as corrosive wear could get out of control pretty quickly. For break-in or a race engine that's high load, short duration use, absolutely, which is the philosophy behind Driven's BR Break-in and XP racing oils.
While watching, I was curious of differences in the approach to the detergent chemistry. For example, if instead of removing the magnesium and going all in on calcium at 3000 ppm (basically old school API SJ add pack), what if the calcium is held constant in the regular GTX and magnesium is top treated up to 2000 ppm to give the same total detergent content (ppm wise) but spread out differently, with ZDDP top treatment to 1200-1300 ppm accordingly. Would we likely see a similar result? Maybe mixing hard and soft base detergents at different ratios to see if the anti-wear is related more closely to the total detergent content or related to the alkalinity (TBN) from those detergents, see if wear goes up with more TBN even if the detergent content in PPM goes down. Might be worth testing in the future. There's some calcium-based chemistry that provides an anti-wear benefit as well.
Break in oil and race oil are vastly different. Break in oil promotes wear because the piston rings need to wear some to properly seal to the cylinder walls. Modern oil often have such good anti wear properties that they can completely prevent piston rings from sealing, so you use a break in oil to get them to seal quick then change it out with a regular oil. This is also why you don't put assembly lube on your cylinder walls, only engine oil. Race oils don't need as much detergents since the engines don't stay together long enough to accumulate carbon build up, so they can reduce them to reduce the competition between anti wear agents and the detergents. No one should ever use a break in oil thinking it has superior wear protection to regular oil, it's the exact opposite.
Thank you very much for a excellent good oil info, The Motor Oil Geek.
Our pleasure!
Great test! I've been waiting for the results and they aren't what I expected at all. These results make me wonder how much protection we are giving up in modern oils for the sake of emissions and protecting catalytic converters. From this test, it seems like possibly quite a bit.
Fortunately, a different modern oil beat both of these.
If cars didn´t have Catalytic Converters then the quastion of ZDDP would not come up.
Exactly what function does the CC have other than cutting power to the engine by acting as an resister? It has nothing too do with emision control as seen here in the Swedish State Vehicle Inspection Stations. You can get a passing grade on an old 1960 VOLVO AMAZON without a CC unit as with a factory new VOLVO S90 with a CC and all the other crap they put on cars and trucks.
It would be nice too get an explanation from the auto enginers.
@@markwarnberg9504 Are you sure that a 1960 Volvo will be held to the exact same emissions standards as a brand new Volvo? And do you have any emissions test results showing that the 1960 Volvo doesn't pollute any more than the new one? I don't know anything about emissions tests in Sweden, but here in America, classic cars get exemptions because they do pollute so much more than modern cars and it wouldn't be reasonable to hold a decades old car to emissions standards that didn't even exist when it was made.
@@averyalexander2303 Every year cars without C Cs pass the same inspection.
@@markwarnberg9504you're talking out of your ass, brother. Know how I know? Tens of thousands of emissions tests under my belt.
Lake, awesome job, I wish you would do that to some diesel oils like delo vs shell T4. Delo has half the zinc and less than half of the detergents of T4.
Exactly. A lot of guys like running Rotella T4 in older gas engines for the added zinc which is supposed to help protect flat tappet camshafts. It would be nice to see the scientific side of this.
Id love to see a classic car oil breakdown. Modern oil with zddp additive, vs rottela diesel oil, vs the classic gtx. Ect
Great idea!
Can you please do shell rotella T6. I love these videos 👏🏻
Great suggestion!
Rotella T6 is extremely popular in the VW community. It has no VW specific certifications. However, UOA shows it often outperforms VW certified oils in non-DPF diesels.
Stop talking about Rotella! If you let the secret out I’ll never be able to find it on shelf lol!
@@stacksmasher I always could get it in Walmart. I remember back in 2002, it was the one readily available 5w40. I used it in my VW Jetta 1.8T.
@@skylinefever I use it in everything from my dirt bike to the lawn mower lol!
The problem with too much zinc, molybdenum, or other metal elements, is that they can oxidize and foul oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. Any engine burns a certain amount of oil, whether it carries over through the PVC system, comes past the piston rings or is drawn through the intake valve guides. When burnt, the oxides of those metals forms an ash with very high melting points, which exceed the withstand temperatures of those components. The reason for reducing the additives is not to make more profit on the oil, but rather to protect very expensive emission control systems. The "Classic" oil is much better in older engines with no emission controls, and poor metallurgy. The newer oil is more suited to engines that don't need as much wear protection, but have sophisticated emission control systems that are highly susceptible to contamination.(The main reason lead tetra ethylene anti-knock compounds were removed from gasoline "unleaded")
Great video!! Do a test with Motul Classic 20W/50 since it has more zinc and phosphorus than Castrol Classic.
An interesting test would be to take one oil, and add ZDDP at different PPM's and do wear tests. This would help minimize the influence of other additives, and give a more definitive picture.
We have done that before during the R&D process, but those oils are not publicly available. That's why we focused these tests on commercially available oils.
@@themotoroilgeek Sorry I meant, using one commercial oil as basis of the test. Thank you for the reply!
@@themotoroilgeek hey there. Just stumbled onto your channel. Just trying to research which break in oil I should use and then which oil I should change to after the break in period. It’s a rebuilt 6.4 Hemi. Thanks
@@djknight5536 thanks for the comment. The Driven BR 10W-40 would be good for your 6.4 HEMI.
can you recommend buying additives like zddp? they do exist@@themotoroilgeek
Hey there: I really enjoyed this video series comparing Castrol GTX motor oils...good job. I also watched your video series comparing the different Pennzoil full synthetic oils, and this too was a really good series. Based upon these videos, I would like to suggest that you consider doing a video series on the Castrol lineup of full synthetic oils: Castrol GTX Full Synthetic, Castrol Edge, and Castrol Edge Extended Performance. Again, thanks for making these videos because they are very educational.
Great suggestion!
Wow. Surprising the huge difference that makes. Would a moly additive have similar results? Or boron? Thanks!
Would love to see some additional testing on folks who would take this info and say, "lets use a zinc additive with the high level zinc oil". Does that equal more protection???
Great video Lake! Love seeing these empirical results!
Great suggestion! We need to do that.
I have seen test results online showing that adding various ZDDP additives ended up reducing the oil's wear protection, presumably by disturbing the carefully balanced additive package.
Thanks for the great video! In the early 2000s I worked for a shop that resurrected Oldsmobiles. A customer was talking about the lack of ZDDP in the current engine oils at the time. He ran a certain additive to replace the ZDDP. My understanding, in layman's terms, was that zinc was removed from motors oils due to catalytic converters. Zinc supposedly was not compatible and was said to harm converters. I always ran Castrol GTX in all my equipment. I never had a catalytic converter failure.
I agree. I aslo saw this in my career a as a car mechanic for years. The industry told that the higher saps oil “kills” the catalyst converter. With higher amount zddp into the oil in those day’s my experience was that there where less trouble with engines nowadays with premature wear and oul consumption. But in my opinion the wear start to increase in these days with the downsized engines and these oils with lower saps. I guess that the industry know that premature wear cause that people buy new cars more frequent. I use for a longer time with this knowledge a full synthetic 10W40 for our 3.2L Audi A6.
It's the phosporous component of ZDDP that can poison catalytic converters over time.
Great video. I mix 50-50 M1 15w50 and Castrol Classic in my antique straight six engines.
Have you done used oil analysis to measure engine wear with your blend?
Why?
Oil, not so simple as once thought it to be! Good stuff!
Please post more videos. Love your content
Working on it!
Thanks Speed for the video! Been waiting to see this one.
I’d love to see a follow up of the same test using the high zinc GTX but with a 2 and 5% fuel dilution and see the wear difference. Direct injection engines today this is a real problem with car manufacturers recommending 10k mile oil drain intervals.
That sounds like a really good idea
Great suggestion!
I like it, because I would often smell gasoline in bothe VW TGDI engines and carb engines. Obviously that can't tell me how much fuel contamination there is. However, I do know it has to be higher than MPFI engines.
I use the Castro classic in my daughters 68 F250
Knowledge of subject matter + ability to clearly communicate = great videos-thank you! Like myself, others will look for ways to increase their oils zddp content. Perhaps you could make a video of different zddp additives using lab tests to compare zddp levels. I just added rislone zddp formula to my oil and would love to know it’s content. There are no videos that I am aware of that performs such a thing. I think you would receive many many views if you were to do it.
Thanks for the kind words. I will address the ZDDP issue in a future video. I can say now that I prefer oils that already have the correct level and type of ZDDP rather than using a ZDDP additive.
@@themotoroilgeek - just thought you’d be interested to hear that the zddp additive has had an amazing impact on cold start up. My overhead cam flat tappet engine used to sound like death warmed over on a cold morning start, but today it’s almost completely silent. Last winter I tried stp and mmo to quiet the engine but they had no noticeable effect. I like zddp!
Great video. Ive been using Castrol Edge 5w30 here in Australia for many years. Its only api SL rated becsuse they didn't want to adhere to the limit on zddp. I feel like hoarding even more of this oil now I've seen this video 😂
Time to stock up!
@@themotoroilgeek But only five years worth, right? After than it starts separating, doesn't it?
Will the Zinc negatively affect catalytic converters? At what temperature does the zinc begin to coat the metal? Do normal engine parts reach this temperature? Great video!
Cool👍🏻😎I did all deez oils. Tested Blackstone. I just ended up doing Mobil Delvac Super 1300. Half the cost of Shell Rotella 🤷♂️.
My 2017 3.6 pentastar says use 5w 20, my 2021 says use 0w 20. What oil should i use? I know even earlier pentastar says use 5w 30. Seems like an epa change rather than whats best for my engine
Finally i pushed Castrol gtx 5.30 for My 1.6 16v 99' ..i hope your opinión between two Castrols.....great canal
What are your thoughts on royal purple ? Would love to see a video comparing it to mobile 1 or Pennzoil
Very informative! It lends one to think that achieving a desired outcome can be very complex, and likewise confusing for the consumer.
I don't know how uniform testing on lubricants actually is, from some things I've read it sounds as if there isn't really as much as, say I, the consumer, would expect. I mean, reading a claim which states: Provides "X%" better wear protection using test "Y" says they picked and chose a test which produced the results most favorable to their marketing department. Perhaps I'm wrong, but it would be awesome to know we could compare product claims all based on the same methods for each brand. I know, I might be asking for the impossible.
It just would be nice to know that all claims were backed by the exact same test methods and based off of one set standard for each grade and composition; whether that be fully crude based, crude/synthetic blend, or full synthetic. This way, regardless of formulation we could feel we're making more of an apples to apples comparison.
You are spot on. Many oil marketers are “liars” in the sense that they “test” on methods that will show their product to be “better”, despite the fact that most laboratory bench tests don’t correlate that well to the real world. That’s why used oil analysis is so important. It applies science to separate the facts from the marketing.
I would love to see a video on how different zddp additives that are available on the market (ie. Rislone, Lucas) would affect the wear/protection in an engine, especially on high performance cars (ie. Audi R8's, Porsche 911 Turbo's, Nissan GTR's, and older engines such as the Toyota Supra 2JZGTE).
Since in your video, you've stated more zinc with more detergent is still much better than lower zinc with lower detergent, hence, I would love to see what happens if I artificially added more zinc to the oil vwith an zddp additive while the detergent level remains unchanged. There are whole bunch of theories and speculations out there, from manufacturer claiming it works to people saying it increases acidity to the oil which is bad for an engine, to the zddp additive actually doesn't dissolve in the oil hence rendering it useless.
Would love to see your results and hear your conclusion.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I'm no expert, however when I added ZDDP at 2100ppm then used 20% Marvel's Mystery Oil to neutralize Zinc Pitting I was Happy with the Blackstone wear results and the 2100 ZDDP levels actually showed up on the test. This was on a AFM engine.
Where does the difference between fully synthetic and semi-synthetic fit into the scheme of things? Are they totally different "soups"?
Great question! That would be another variable.
Test Valvoline maxlife high mileage full synthetic. I always thought with better detergents, antiwear and seal conditioner, why wait till 75K to switch to this oil when all oils should be like this.
Also we need your thoughts and a video on the highly debated topic of new vehicle break in period and are frequent oil changes really better during this critical period of the engine life. I also say avoid short trips in a new vehicle until at least 3000 miles.
I also think you should pick 1 oil and stick with it for the life of the vehicle, when ever you change oil formulas, you change wear patterns and that's not good.
Would you be able to do head to head comparisons of Amsoil, Royal purple, and the penzoil ultra platinum?
Would you please do a test on which extra heavy duty oil is the best? I have two uses of my own for extra heavy duty oil. One is a side-by-side four wheeler Can-Am that in our hilly area is constantly revving in the 3500 to 4000 RPM range. And the other is my 454 Merc cruiser 27 foot boat that revs around the same 3500 and above when cruising. I’ve been using 15-50 mobile one but after reading your other tests I’ve been considering using O-40 ultra Penzoil platinum. please test some of these heavy oils and let us know what would be best. Thanks a ton for your great work.
Thanks for the suggestion
Castrol is good too
I see the third test for the break-in oil with almost zero detergent & a bit more ZDDP returned a 20ppm iron wear number. Maybe that would be indicative of higher ZDDP/lower detergent results?
A popular high end Ester based oil is Redline. Plz do a review, API rating and dexos comparison on their oils. Thx!
Also the most important factor in engine oils is this, check what the OEM specs are as per OEM, then you should be ok, just be sure that you check with what the average temps are in the various regions you might be driving though the year, most 0w weight oils are made to make sure the oil runs through the engine at very low outside temps like well below 0 in C degrees, but if you live in hotter climates then you should be going for a oil which is oem spec, but go just one rank higher, so if oem is 0 w 30, you can go to 0w/40 that way you have better temp friction protection at higher outside temps.
At least thats what have been doing, stay with in the oem spec ,but go higher or lower, depending on what the average weather temps are in your region etc.
Plus people the oils we have now compared to say 15 20 years ago and the massive hi tolerances in engine builds, the oils are going to be ISLAC. SAE 0w10 0W15 weight oils because of so much hybrid engines etc. Turbo small capacity engines with hi power outputs and also lets not forget GF-6 oils coming in mid 2024?
Thanks for the video, I would like to see a test with castrol edge5w50 vs other 5 w50s on the market.
Thanks for the suggestion!
I’m using 5w50 in one of my cars since it’s recently been turbocharged and I have to say it’s really impressive how the viscosity barely changes with temperature. Truly an impressive oil and it also smells like cake batter for some reason
Very useful information. can i ask what is a good rule when buying the oil, maybe what you would recommend a brand to buy? thank you.
Hello, what do you think about PAO based oils? For example, one of my car came with Castrol gtx 5w30 and i want to change it with a PAO based oil ( same viscosity, same ACEA C3); it doesnt have my car`s direct approval but my car manufacturer says i can also use a C3 5w30 oil. The PAO oil has better approvals according to Lubrizol tool and exceeds my car direct approval....
Do you think any dammage will occur to the engine, ive heard myths about PAO oils destroying engine gaskets but it never happened when i used it in other cars.
Thank you !
Sounds like you have wear tests data in reserve those would make really interesting videos! I think thats why we're all here in search of an oil that protects our investments the best with the least wear possible. I guess my question is...with all your knowledge so far. Lake Speed Jr. what oil do you use in your cars?Because thats what i wanna use too!😊
I’ve been running as per manual, 10w40 cycle specific four stroke oil in our Rm250 two stroke gearboxes. We run from an air cooled 1978.5 , 1996 and a 2001. Recently , I tried tractor trans hydraulic fluid, and I added a zinc additive. The clutch and shifting action was surprisingly smoother. We almost always run for about a 4 lap moto at a time. I do wonder if I’m risking damage by the decreased viscosity , though I’ve known some who used ATF with success and it’s about what , 10-15 wt ?
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸
thank you
Thanks for watching!
For more zinc I use the old standby......STP Oil treatment. Casite Motor Honey, Wynns Friction proofing etc., is also good to prevent wear.
Stp doesn’t have very much zinc in it anymore
Old cars high levels of Zinc is preferred but in modern cars that would cause havoc with the Catalytic Converters, I guess we have to pay the piper one way or another. good video, just saw your video about the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum that's were I'm heading next, I would guess more uniform Molecules & that should be better.
Would be nice to see these tests with oils that are utilized in modern engines. 20/50 is rarely if ever used in modern vehicles. Yes classics will run it and I get that point, but would love to see these tests with 0/20, 5/20 or even the 0/16 oils that many modern engines use.
I agree the most common standard oils are 0w30, 5w30 and the new super thin 0w20 and even 0w16.
The 40 weights like 5w40 or 0w40 are still relevant though.
@@alouisschafer7212 yes depends most cars run 5/20 or 0/20 these days not even 5/30 anymore. Some higher end sports cars may still run a 40w+ but the average consumer family vehicle runs a 20w.
I agree. I'd like to see this tested with higher end synthetic oils also. By today's standards, Castrol GTX is a very basic oil and I suspect a more modern and higher performing synthetic oil with more advanced chemistry may not rely on the ZDDP as much as a basic conventional oil, but that's just a theory.
Thompson Motorsports built the Supercharged LS427 in my 2013 Cadillac CTS-V, and they recommend Valvoline VR1 20W50 conventional.
@@johnallen7230 understandable from a performance car perspective. I'm referring to what the other 90% of daily drivers are. Most consumer cars these days run a 20w weight oil.
Oil has come a long way as well. As proven by this channel and it's content.
Lake, great content! What would you recommend for a inline 6 like the jeep 4.0? Diesel oil is popular in the jeep community.. not sure that’s too safe..
Thanks! Since those ar flat tappet engines, an oil with a little extra ZDDP would be great. The Valvoline VR-1 would be better than a Diesel oil.
Lake, thanks! I used to work at comp cams hope you are well!
@@johnpecoraro1720 ❤️❤️❤️
Hello Speed, and thanks for the test! Should I run high ZDDP oil in my 2003 Toyota highlander with the 3.0 engine?
Thanks for the question. No, high ZDDP oils are not good for modern engines with catalytic converters, so you don’t need a high ZDDP oil in your 2003 Highlander.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you, sir!
Which oils have tested best in this ring wear category?? I wanna know what oils were testing as low as 10/20ppm
castrol edge next? i think Castrol Edge 0w40 euro vs Mobil 1 0w40 euro would be a good test, and/or just castrol edge 0w40 euro test.
Thanks for the suggestion
What oil and weight would you recommend for my 85 Mustang Gt Solid lift cam aluminum heads? I tried Shell Rotella 10w30 and just recently put Lucas High Zinc Classic car and hot rod 10w30 and seems to run fine on both but heard the high Zinc is not recommended for solid lift cams? Other mechanics told me use regular Castrol Gtx 10w30..
Whats is your opinion on friction modifiers like liqui moly ceratec?
We are going to make a video about that!
I wish you would do a video on the best 5w-30 oil for a car with 150k miles on them, that is what most of us are running and would really like to know what can help our older engines.
What’s the best oil for a 103 ci Harley air cooled engine ? In Australia we have penrite oil. Have you done testing on that oil … thanks
We need to answer the question of what level of zddp is right for small engines like lawnmowers , riding mowers I.E. Briggs and Stratton and Kawasaki 20hp twin cylinder engines. Does it make a difference in synthetic to conventional oils. Most recommend 10w30
Please do a comparison of LiquiMoly oil next!!
Please make a video about upper cylinder carbon. And why crankcase oil can’t reach it or if it can reach but is lacking
great test.......one question isnt the 20w-50 a little too thick?. I have a 1975 Lincoln with 460 and factory flat tappet, I am thinking of using this oil but am concerned 20w-50 might be too thick.....thoughts?
20W-50 is not too thick for an older engine in a warmer climate.
@@themotoroilgeek thanks
Great videos! Would you be willing to give some insights for oil in a turbo race motor for road racing/dune buggy/etc where the motor will run longer than the few minutes of a typical drag car?
Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. For turbo engines, a synthetic oil will handle that better. A proper race only synthetic would be the way to go.
Someone tell me... I always thought zinc was a protection against metal to metal wear like putting a zinc coating on copper pennies. is more zinc better for a 200k+ car? is less zinc better for a new car?
Is there a difference between "synthetic" and "synthetic based"?
My UOA iron results for 3000 miles is 5 ppm up to 7 ppm. It's an old 2005 4x4 iron block turbo diesel 6 cyl 256 ci cam chain engine with 215k miles on it.
Is this level of iron for these many miles good or not?
I use the old school Amsoil AME 15W-40 diesel oil which is both high detergent hight zddp.
Always less than 2% fuel dilution.
thank you for your time and energy , it was great. i just want to ask that can i add zinc oxide powder to my oil because i cant find good oil , how much grams for 5 liters of oil? thank you
Thanks. Don’t add anything to your oil.
@@themotoroilgeek i have a modified m102 mercedes engine and oils around my country are very bad , what can i add to my oil for less friction?
Does all this change when you have a supercharged engine? Does 5w20 still work in a 700 hp just as well as in a stock engine?
That’s why I run T4 diesel in all my engines!
So would this be the oil to use in a 1970's British sportscar. Especially with the detergent.
I have a 63 Impala with a 283cid engine with 200k plus. I use Castrol Classic 20w-50 with zinc but would love to also turn this oil into a high mileage oil with a simple high mileage additive. Anyone have any ideas?
Heat and load matters too
Yes it does.
Many thanks for this very useful and well explained test. Please let me know if an oil (TRIAX 5w-50) with 1980 ZDDP is good for a diesel engine TDI PD (A4). How much ZDDP is too much and what are the adverse effects? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the question. When the ZDDP go above 2,000 ppm wear begins to increase. Also, diesel engines require a specific type of dispersant.
@@themotoroilgeek Much appreciating your response. You definitely deserve more subscribers and views, because you have great content.
@@mevio4665 thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek Can you name the dispersant? Also, running HDEO in gasoline engines is getting quite popular.
@@lexusguy9127 Dispersants don't typically show up in oil analysis reports because they don't contain metals. The exception are Borated dispersants which show up as Boron on the report.
What about testing Amsoil 5w30?
I'm wondering if you can do test on
New quaker state 0w20. Rated for 20 thousand miles....advertised on bottle..
And do test on. O'reilly syntec 0w20.
Blue bottle...see witch one is better.
That new castrol gtx. That replaced magnatec...can't find it anywhere in Walmart stores. But can find in quarts at auto stores...
Thanks for the questions. Unfortunately, these tests are quite expensive, so we can’t run them on many different oils.
Can you test Amsoil 15w40 heavy duty diesel Marine vs there Signature 15w40 . They claim the signature series is a upgrade . Thanks
I get the rated Deez oil for my rigs. I never had an engine failure before the truck or tractor turned to rust. Change it and filters on schedule. Air filters matter as much.
Filters matter a ton!
I’ld like to see you do a review on Tribodyne products
Penzoil compared to castrol GTX. ? Anyone?
I saw them all excellent videos, but what is the oil that in the tests showed between 20-10 (ppm) of wear? Valvoline VR-1? By using less detergent?
The lower wear oil did have less detergent and it had molybdenum.
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks for your response, I was reading that Lucas Hot Road 20w/50 oil also has a high zinc and phosphorus content, but it has not been tested. Thank you
If you do not have a roller cam you need Zinc.
are detergents what keeps the engine clean? if so are the new oils doing a good job of keeping the engine clean? when the detergents are lowered what effect does that have on the engine?
Stay tuned for more about that.
I've read that zinc is not catalytic converter friendly, and is the reason for the lower ppm in today's oil. Which makes you wonder, how much oil was their test subject burning?
Lake, I have been using Castrol lubricants 53 years and have neve had a failed engine part. I would like to see a comparison or synthetic oils such as Castrol Syntec if it's possible.
Thanks for the suggestion
@@themotoroilgeek . . but especdially Castrol oils are a little bit outdated (see internet) There are so much better Oils (MOBIL, SHELL, LIQUI MOLY etc. pp)
@@AL_THOMAS_777338.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am LT1 engine, I bought it new. Nothing but Castrol GTX been used since factory drain. Engine has never been touched, even the timing chain is original. Still runs like new.
So what oil had 10ppm!? I'd love to see the results for basically every oil in this test lol.
And I've Herd quaker state 0w20 is same as pennzoil 0w20....just different color bottle...?
So I have a flat tappet cam engine. Toyota 22r. It’s a new engine so how can I get a high enough zddp content without going to a thick oil? Seems like 15-30 would be too thick for a fresh build. 🤷🏼♂️
I would have thought a classic oil would automatically have lower detergency because that’s what they had back in the day
Are surface finish parameters Mr1, Mr2, Rpk and Rvk used on cylinder wall machining values?
What oil would you recommend for an *BA Flathead. Word is it needs zinc and low detergent. But which oil?
8BA
I thought it was going to be closer between the two oils because modern GTX had the reduced level of detergent and the addition of Boron. But no, it wasn't even close. ZDDP rules! Mandated lower levels of Phosphorous to save catalytic converters is causing more engine wear. Come on, man! Engines are expensive, catalytic converters are (relatively) cheap.
aside from the friction requirements set in JASO MAx or MB, are there any differences between gasoline car engine oil and motorcycle oil? (specifically for motorcycles with dry clutches)
Great question. For a dry clutch motorcycle engine, the same oil could be used for both a car engine and motorcycle engine.