Is The NEW Valvoline VR1 A Good Oil? A Certified Lubrication Specialist Reveals The Results!
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- Valvoline VR1 is the oldest and best selling Racing Oil on the market, but does that mean it is any good? Lake Speed Jr, a world renowned Tribologist, reveals the changes to the Valvoline VR1 formula to the API SP spec and how that has impacted the wear protection of this oil.
Oils across the globe have been changing due to the advent of the API SP and GM dexos 1 engine oil specs, and Lake gets into the chemistry changes behind these specs. Hint: it has to do with Low Speed Pre-Ignition and the Calcium detergent levels.
Here's a link to another video specifically about LSPI:
• How To Prevent LSPI Fr...
To get started with oil analysis, visit www.speediagnostix.com
Valvoline products are available at amzn.to/3t5ZJmE
Here's a link to a video with additional information about API SP oils: • Oil Problem? When You ...
This post contains affiliates links (that at no cost to you) I may earn a teeny tiny commission if you choose to purchase them.
#oilanalysis #motoroil - Авто та транспорт
Your father was one heck of a driver and champion! One of my dad's favorite drivers as well!
Thanks!
I've been running the VR1 in 10 30 in my sbc for years. Its kept it alive.
Good breakdown of the VR1. It's great that oil companies are still making old style oils for flat tappet cams etc.
Thanks!
How does the Synthetic VR1 version compare?
@@dr.john-markcain4946it's BLUE 🔵💙🔵💙
I use it in my '68 Ford F-100 with a427 stroker.
Been using it exclusively for 40 yrs,great oil ,never had a oil failure issue using it
Thanks, Lake, for sharing your insight and experience with these oils and their performance in engines.
Simple. Straightforward. Just the info I needed for deciding synthetic oil for my '70 Challenger big block. Appreciate the effort in a timely manner.
Thank you!
Good to see Lake Jr.! He's a huge expert on oil, piston rings and all parts of v8 performance!
Thanks!
Works great in small air-cooled engines as well. It saved my portable generator when it had to run in 100 degree weather. Several of my neighbors burned up theirs using regular 10W30. Don't take chances. Use VR1 in those hot running screamers.
Kendall is better. in the old days we compared it to Castrol and Kendall and it didnt even compare. Now they say its good......I dont trust them. they were selling smoke and mirrors for years on that detergent rich garbage. Breaks down in a very short period on an air cooled. Try Kendall.
After 33 years using straight 30 VR1 in a sbc in a 70 Monte Carlo the engine
is just as clean as the day it was installed.
Thanks for the video. Look forward to more motor oil reviews in the future.
More to come!
Ol' Mitch Stapleton brought me here, and I'm so thankful!! Learning a lot from you and I truly appreciate it!!
Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek keep up the awesome content!!
i love VR1. i used it forever in my aircooled porsches and also in my Harley
Wait. Your Harley, what about the wet clutch?
I use VR1 in my hotrod Harley too. Love it
@@mandytuningI run VR1 in my 1957 KR 750 Harley with a wet clutch. I race it flat track and it’s great.
Thank you so much for this video! Puts a bit of "unknown" to rest. I've been using it in my race engines and doing so was based on an older test on valvoline and several other "top" engine oils. VR1 was on top of the game then, and glad to see it's even better than it was. Awesome 👏🏼
I’m glad you liked the video!
Very much appreciate these technical videos. Thank you Lake!
My pleasure!
Great news Lake, thanks for covering this oil and the comparison with M1 15-50.
I use the M1 in the turbo Peugeot and the VR1 in the 60s Alfa and 3.2 911. Good to hear the reassure g news.
THANKS
We are happy to help!
I was hoping I wasn't going to hear bad news about my oil. Turns out it's EXCELLENT news! Thanks for doing this video.
Thank you!
@@themotoroilgeek Hello, on the VR1 20w-50 I saw 1 quart that said Full Synthetic and another that just said Synthetic. If it doesnt say "Full Syn" does that mean its just a part semi blend??? Both were black bottles Ty
Great video, Lake.
Technical, clear and well presented. Nice one!
Thank you!
GREAT News!
I Still have about 40 Quarts from 2018 to go through.
It's all I USE.
Solid Roller Cam.
thanks for the info. all my amc race engines run valvoline vr1 . glad to hear this
Thanks for the info. I have a Golen 383 LT1 (460hp/440 ft lb) in my 4th Gen Camaro. He recommended Valvoline VR1 20W50 which I use. I run the engine hard to its 6,500 rpm redline at the track and autocross without any problems for about 5 years now.
Thanks!
same here - golen 416 supercharged (900+hp) recently switched from lucas to vr1 - both great but the VR1 is much easier to get and much easier on the wallet... no ill effect.
Thank you for the information.
I look forward to hearing you speak at your seminar at the PRI show
Thanks! See you there!
Good breakdown, good that despite their super strong brand recognition,
Valvoline is still making VR1 high quality relative to the price
Thanks!
I have two classic Hi Po cars and I use VR1 / Great Oil.
When I saw Valvoline 20W50 I thought you were going to say they changed it for the worse. I have used this oil for over 25 years in my E30 325IS and have been very pleased. And am glad its better now. Thanks for the knowledge.
Thank you!
It is too thick for that engine.
@@V8Lenny not if you race... Also depends on climate, for 15+ C° it's fine on cold starts also
@@514aam it is. You want flow, not restriction.
I use that in my old E30 with M10 too. It’s good oil.
Currently using this VR1 in my 95’ Toyota Supra
Built motor making over 800hp
I use it, still, in my old Jeep 4.0. Then my 6500 GMC dump truck with the 427 tall deck loves VR1.
Very very interesting. Love the numbers talk and the science behind it.
Thanks!
Pretty sure this shit saved my engine. Got an old Triumph Bonneville T140 that was all original, the old gaskets started leaking bad from being heat cycled after sitting for 4 decades. Sprung one so bad that I lost oil pressure, and didn't see the light right away. Tore it down to fix the leaks and check the bottom end, and despite almost running the oil out, it prevented damage and now she's back together and holding oil pressure better than she did when I bought her.
Valvoline says it's not recommended for wet clutches, but there's tons of people that run it in these vintage Triumphs without issues.
I can't stop watching your videos. So interesting. I took an oil analysis class at centralia community college in 2019 so I feel like I have a slightly better understanding comprehending your videos! I've been buying vr1 for 6+ years. I've been teeder tottering trying out Diesel truck Engine oils to save cost also to get 10w40 instead of rocking 10w 30 I've been running in Florida state.
That is awesome!
I use VR1 in my race car that has Rotary engine using Methanol at 10,000rpms and it holds oil pressure between 80 to 100psi, when I open the engine to re-fresh the internal parts look great, definitely a great product.
the old stuff was terrible. I wont ever use it again. Ruined several race engines. Now Kendall Or castrol synthetic is ok
I'd like to hear your opinion on the Kendall competition 20w50
Good info. Seems like most thought the new API rating would be bad for this old school oil.
Thanks. There has been speculation that SP is a step backwards, but it is actually a good step forward.
Thanks Lake, you da best!
Thanks Brian! I appreciate your support!
I’ve got an old Buick 455 still decent at almost 140k miles. Definitely switching to this oil
I have been always using this in my Harley.
Thanks for your very clear explanation🙂
Thanks for the comment.
Use this in my 73 Mach 1 351C. It was recommended when I bought the car two years ago.
Love your videos brother and learning so much. I have read that there are several different versions of ZDDP used in oils now and something about longer lasting chemical ability. Can you sometime in a video explain this?
Thank you! And yes, there are several different types of ZDDP. They don't all act the same, so I will do a video about that sometime. Too many good ideas and not enough time...
I only use Valvoline VR1 in my 6 classic cars. I am bias as Dad had one job after he graduated college..... Ashland/Valvoline. He was Valvoline racing director 1960-1970. But I know that Ashland does make a good product (Valvoline is spun off now) so I'd use it anyway.
I just found your channel when it came up in my feed. GREAT info!!!
BTW I had a NASCAR vendor license 1983-1999 and had a few dealings with your Dad. Nice guy to work with. Last product was a Pruex Ford model T bank!!! Crazy days of NASCAR!! Thanks
That is awesome! Speaking of the Purex car, check this out: ua-cam.com/video/NcPgD1-PppQ/v-deo.htmlsi=vruwgy0cw6fRHWUr
Thank you for this info. Very helpfully.
👍👍👍
It’s what i run in my Harley Davidson.
Excellent.. this was a top level information presentation..excellent
Today's word of the day is "Synchronicity": Literally took delivery of 10 litres (I'm in YooRope ;) ) of this stuff yesterday for my SBC350 '71 Camaro. UA-cam suggested a Stapleton42 video and that led me here :)
Too cool!
good news i use this all the time thanks.🤩
Thanks!
Love this content! Question, is the centistoke test the measure of flow in both test temperatures measured in seconds? Is it a measure of time? Keep this stuff coming Mr Speed!!
Centistokes is a flow measurement using time as the standard, so the higher the number the slower the flow (i.e. higher viscosity). Put another way, viscosity is another way of saying "resistance to flow". The higher the viscosity, the more resistance to flow.
Hey Lake i've watched a bunch of your videos on oil. I beleive you have some very good information and points.
In my opinion what everyone seems to miss is that water cooled engines pretty much run in a controled environment , except for the start up/warm up period.
My thinking is in a warmer climate like southern US a straight 30w is sufficient. No need for all the additive to change the viscosity. Auto mfg's are going to this 5k - 10k between oil changes that's bs. I have have always told my customers the best oil is fresh clean oil recomended for your vehicle/engine. An oil filter will never get all the particles out of dirty oil. Then oil filters have bypasses so only a portion gets filtered. The micrscopic particles get impregnated in the pores of metal and never unlodged.
Just my 2 cents worth well with inflation that's $ .002 worth ha!
Thanks for the comment and for watching! I agree that long oil drain intervals are not good for engine wear. Clean oil and fresh filters do a world of good.
I've used it in my sbc that has worn bearings and somewhat low oil pressure. 10-30 oil pressure drops to about 5psi when hot at idle. 20-50 drops to 15 hot. Helps the mind more than the engine.
The thicker viscosity will help with the looser bearing clearances.
Would Love to see you do a review on Redline Ester Based Line of Products.
Top vids by the way it’s golden info for the price! Lol I’m no expert but Vr1 definitely is pretty good oil! I’d use it more often but like so many better oils it’s just a bit pricey here! I used it in the past when the Oil I normally use wasn’t available and I can’t complain about it! my setup is hard on oil often running rich also with two pumps and very high pressure for the application!(my dodgy way to gain crank stability) and plus the turbo in hot climate! recently bought some gulf western comp to try as it’s widely used in competition locally, my measurements for oil quality go as far as monitoring it’s ability to resist degradation in time and it’s ability to hold good high temperature pressure and regular dismantling and inspection of the engine internally although it’s a daily drive it’s still stripped at least twice a year! Also after just watching another of your vids gave me an idea that another reason some oils might struggle in my turbo v6 is I will often run octane booster and I’ll have to check the ingredients but it’s probably a contributing factor why some oil struggled to last
Fuel quality certainly makes a difference!
I use VR1 synthetic on my 2jzgte vvti running 25psi of boost. That is the engine from the Toyota Supra turbo making a little over 500hp. The 2j community loves this oil.
Thanks for sharing!
@@themotoroilgeek I’m guessing the synthetic VR1 is good like the conventional? I don’t like to guess tho, hint hint! Lol
Gonna start using VR1 in my FE and my IH engines.
Great video man. I ride harley twin cam bikes. Usually I'll use Lucas syn oil, until I heard about tribodyn. I'd love to see you review tribodyn 20/50 oil, as well as Lucas 20/50....thanks..
I subscribed to your channel man.
Loving the channel! Any plans on reviewing the full synthetic VR1 10w30? Debating using it for track days in my C5 corvette. I fear the 20w50 may be too thick.
The 10W-30 synthetic has the same additive package as the 20W-50 conventional, but for a C5 Vette, I'd go with the Mobil 1 0W-40 Supercar oil instead.
I wonder how Brad Penn 20w50 compares to VR1 I have Ran them both but the Brad Penn has shown absolutely incredible wear results at least in my experience
Good video!
VR1 Synthetic is good too. Thanks , Lake.
Yes, same additive package.
Hey Junior can you please do a video anylsis epsiode comparing different Valvoline engine oils! 😃
I use VR1 in my small engine shop. Most don't understand that there needs to be an increased zinc package in the air cooled Briggs, Kohler, Kawi etc. The factory labeled oils do have a zinc package, I think the VR1 does better. have started using Amsoil small engine and have seen very good results.
Yes, the small engines need a more robust ZDDP (Zinc) package, so the VR1 and other higher ZDDP oils are a better choice for small engines than regular passenger car engine oils.
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks!
Thank you for your comment. Have been researching if I could use Vr1 10w-30 on my zero turns Kohler 7000 series engines, because at my local Napa Vr1 is $6 a quart while Kohler oil is damn $12!
I'll give it a try.
I'm an Amsoil user though, it'll be tough switching permanently.
It’s all about the chemistry and not the brands. If Amsoil has an oil with similar chemistry, give it a go as well.
@@themotoroilgeek 👍
I've been using Amsoil for 15 years. At the time, I figured if going to use synthetic oil, I might as well go with the ones who invented it.
Love your videos, always great info. Would the vr1 10w30 have same additive package??
Yes, it will.
Would love to see regular valvoline examined.
Great suggestion!
Hello, this is cool that you are actually answering questions in the comments!
When were these changes made in the production VR1 oils?
I am looking at one of my bottles of VR1 20w-50 Full Synthetic and it doesn't mention SP at all. It says "Exceeds API service SL" and that's all. Why don't they say exceeds SP? I bought that oil in December of 2022. Thanks!
I’m happy to help. That must be old stock as the SP rating went into effect in May of 2020.
@@themotoroilgeek OMG. The "Valvoline Store" on Amazon was selling it for $7.50 a quart for over a year, all through 2022. Maybe that's why it was so cheap. Now all of a sudden I see the price on the same page is $10.44 per qt if you buy a 6-pack. So they probably ran out of old stock and now it's the more expected price for synthetic. Sheesh. The pics shown on that page, you can read the back of the bottle which is good, but what I see is it still says "SL" on the back. Well it's pretty typical for Amazon sellers to not keep their pics up to date. But one thing that should be up to date is the latest Valvoline Product Information sheet for this oil which is dated March 3 2023, and it doesn't say anything about any API service class! No mention of SP, SL or any other classification! Good grief! Now I know they don't get these oils actually certified by API because it is racing oil. But the "meets" such and such is still valuable info and they should give it somewhere. Well if there's anything you can do to get the Valvoline guys to be more forthcoming about it, that would be extra cool. Thanks!
looks like a badass add pack to me.
It is definitely better than the old API SM package with all that Sodium.
@@themotoroilgeek valvoline and castrol blew sodium off years ago. that was the old api sm and sl add pack.
I would like to see some videos on rotella t4 15w40 new formulation that's synthetic blend. Also the castrol edge 5w30 A3B4 oil. Maybe even quaker states 5w40 a3b4 Api sp oil as well.
We will add them to our list!
Hello Mr. Lake. I found your channel after seeing you on stapleton42s videos! Love the info.
Have you had a chance to compare diesel oil brands?
Thanks. Check out this video Diesel Oils DON’T Always Have MORE ZDDP? Let's take a look!
ua-cam.com/video/7gkegS8wM88/v-deo.html
I build drag racing engines. This is my go to oil for engines with .0025-.0035’ bearing clearances. For the super loose stuff .004” or so I use dominator straight 60.
Thompson Motorsports built the Supercharged LS427 in my CTS-V. They recommended Valvoline VR1 20W50 and I add Motorkote friction reducer .....excellent wear protection for my 1000hp street car.
Thanks for sharing
I'm surprised an engine builder suggested a conventional oil for something that radical.
Would love to see a review/test on Neo Synthetic oils.
I hope you could go over more Valvoline products?
Coming soon...
I would love to see how AMSOil Z-Rod series compared to VR-1 based on the amsoil being a 100% synthetic
30 wt. In my stock VW Bug. Happy with it.
GeneBerg always recommended Valvoline 30wt for Beetle engines as his testing showed the best results.
I'd love to know how much synthetics is added to this VR1 Conventional oils, so it can carry the SP donut on the label. We know that a pure mineral is hard to pass SP requirements and most blender use a little synthetic and refrain to call it semisynthetic, because its getting less than 10%. By the oxidation levei is nil in POE, but coukd have some G-III.
Im assuming you mean .0003 Dia on the old formula so .00015 R. New formula .0001 Dia so .00005 R. Im a machinist on my day job and most will not understand how small that is but that's quite amazing from the old formula to the new. Great video 🍻
Thanks for the comment. It is actually Radius. The Adcole machine measures cam lobe lift from the base circle to the nose of the cam lobe. Because that is all on one side of the cam, it is the difference in radius that we measured from before the test to after the test.
Like you said, small numbers but really big differences in reality.
@@themotoroilgeek thank you for your comment back. I learned something today. Thank you.
Thanks for the great detailed video on this “special oil”.
I love learning from your expertise on this channel!
I usually put Pennzoil Platinum high mileage full synthetic or Valvoline high mileage full synthetic both in my ‘95 Crown Victoria with 230,000 miles on the odometer.
Runs great, smooth and quiet but “burns” too much with 5W30 so I upgraded to 10W30 and it is better, factory recommendations are 5 or 10w30.
Would VR1 20W50 be better suited or would it definitely be too thick?
Thanks ;)
Wish you would do a test on shell rotella t4 on the zinc level and any wear capability
Thanks for all you do buddy. Just wondering what you think about Lucas oil treatment. I've used it for years and no issues but just wanted your opinion of it. Thanks again
Please do shell rotella T6. I use it in my Nissan 350z helps with burning oil and cleans the engine really good
We can add that one to our list.
As you know, VR1 is available in monogrades and multigrades in mineral formulas. VR1 Synthetic is a 10W-30 or 20W-50 multigrade in the United States ( Europe and Australia have other multigrades available ).
I'd like to see you do a video on the best oil to use in air-cooled engines and compare the different brands of oil search as Kohler brand and Kawasaki brand and I think amsoil has their own formulated oil for air cooled engines
I run VR1 10W-30 in my Oldsmobile; I hope the 10W-30 is as good as the 20W-50 in regards to the updated additive package.
It is the same additive package.
@@themotoroilgeek thanks Lake!
I've always hoped it was okay to use in my stock HO 330 65 Olds Cutlass, which requires premium.
@@OtayBuckwheatIn 1975 on my 16th birthday, my parents gave me a 64 olds F85 cutlass. It was in near mint condition, had just a little over 50.000 miles on it. Even the AC BLEW NICE AND COLD.Had the 330 engine. Ran great! I loved it Metalic blue with a nice blue interior. Drove it 2 years, no serious issues, sold it in 1977 and bought a very nice 68 Mustang from the original owner. 289 automatic, power steering, factory AC etc..still have it, lifelong Southern California car, in great shape, still on the road. 😊
@@johnfranklin5277
Just buttoned up the passenger side front, lowered the jack and worked the brakes a little. Installed new everything from hose, clip, wheel cylinder, bolts, links and all spring and adjuster parts, wheel seal, etc. Tomorrow I'll take the driver's side down to the spindle and backing plate.. and repeat the same procedure.
My convertible was a northern car so there's no AC, but the actual mileage is under 68,000.
The valve train sewing machine hum is pretty loud so I'll probably put it on the ramps and change the oil and filter tomorrow since I have a case of VR-1 10/30 and two or three oil filters.
I think there's a video of it uploaded
On Valvoline’s website, they list VR1 at only 1100 ppm zinc.
I find it interesting that you specifically talk about the 20W-50 in this video. I've been using Valvoline VR1 10W-30 in my cars because I don't like to run 20W-50 in an engine that runs 60 psi of oil pressure at 3,000 rpm with 10W-40. They offer many other viscocities, which I'm sure you're aware of.
I've been looking for VR1 10W40 and they only sell it in that viscosity overseas, I found Australian websites that sell in other viscosities like 5w30, 10w40 as well as the 10w30 and 20w50 that we get here
I have a ‘70 Buick 455 motor that’s been rebuilt .030 over with a mild TA hydraulic flat tappet cam. It was broken in on conventional Valvoline 10W30 and Lucas TB Zinc-Plus. On my last oil change I went with FS VR1 10w30. Im in Northern California and rarely drive this car and am about to do the yearly oil change. Few Q’s for ya.
-Would I benefit going to to another FS like Mobil1 0w40, 5w30, 15w50 or VR1 20w50?
I just saw your other video of the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which looks great as well!
Thanks in advance!
What's interesting is the bottles are still marked API SL in the stores. On their website, if you look closely on the reverse of the bottle the SL is there as well. This is both for the regular and the synthetic versions. I don't understand why if they have reformulated to the SP spec they're not labeling the bottle that way?
I am from Sri Lanka and a member of Sri Lankan Suzuki Swift club.I have been using Valvoline 5W30 Fully synthetic engine oil since 2 years.
My and my friends vehicle model is the 2017 Suzuki Swift ZC13S (GLX Turbo/Boosterjet 1.0) which has a GDI Direct injection engine.The mileage of my vehicle is currently 29,000km.I am not a frequent car user.But I use Valvoline 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, so even after 6 months my mileage is around 1,200km-2000km.But I change engine oil every 6 months.But my friends drive between 3,500km-5,000km by 6 months.The mileage of their vehicles is between 40,000 km-50,000km.They also use Valvoline 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, and they also change the engine oil every 6 months.They say that when they drive after exceeding 3500km-5,000km, their engine oil burns a little and the smoothness of the engine is a little lacking.But they say that when Mobil 5w30 fully synthetic engine oil is used, the engine oil does not burn like that and even after exceeding 3,500km-5,000km, there is no change in the engine smoothness.Is Valvoline 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil a good engine oil?Some people say that by using fully synthetic engine oil, if the vehicle is not used often, the engine oil can become sludge.Is there any truth to that?When I use the vehicle, a distance of about 23 km is driven one way, and to come home, a distance of 23 km is driven, which means a distance of about 46 km.Short distance goes very rarely.Anyway, I change the engine oil every 6 months even though it is fully synthetic engine oil.Valvoline 5W30 engine oil made in Singapore is imported to our country.In case of Mobil engine oil, there is an app for Mobil oil itself to check the engine oil genuineness.And as customers, how to know the genuineness of Valvoline engine oil?Even now, there are various disagreements about this engine oil.Sorry for typing so long to explain. Because I am also afraid of what people say about engine oil. If you give answers for these questions it will greatly appreciated and I can inform and aware them regarding this engine oil to many people of my country as well.
Can you look at Rotella 15 40 and see how it compares to older oils and vr1
Nice review. I have used this oil in my commercial Kawasaki FS600V and the oil analysis came back just as good as did the Amsoil 20W-50 I had been using.
How about the VR1 20W-50 in the black bottle that is "Full Synthetic" any better or worse than the silver bottle?
Thanks. The synthetic has the same additive package.
This is the oil I use in my Fox body mustang 351w always have
Good videos. Thoughts about a flat tappet friendly oil for those of us that drive year round? Seems everything geared to flat tappets is 20w50, which isn't something I want in my engine when its -20C. Even my 'loose' engine wasn't happy starting in late fall when the temperatures started kissing the freezing point overnight with 15w50 and it reminded me it was time to get 10w30 or 5w30 in it for the upcoming winter season.
VR1 is available in 10w30
@@Ricky-js7vy At ridiculously inflated prices here in Canada, if you can even find it. 20w50? No problem. Personally, I find it ironic that here in Canada where we get below freezing temperatures that something as benign as a decent oil is hard to find in a 10w30 and that 20w50, and 15w40 dominate the shelves for oils that are not modern mainstream low zddp oils.
Great video!! But why the sole focus on the mineral 20w50? They make other weights too for tighter bearing clearances and/or less extreme applications. There is also a synthetic version. I would be curious to know more about the whole spectrum. For example I run 10w30 mineral VR1 on my small block Mopar.
The family of VR1 products all use the same additive package, so the positive changes to the 20W-50 conventional VR1 apply to the other viscosity grades of VR1 (both conventional and synthetic).
@@themotoroilgeek Awesome, thank you!
@@bigboreracing356 now no one serious cares about your juvenile opinion.
@themotoroilgeek Ahhh, thanks for that. Been scrolling the comments to find this answer. Mopar guy, use VR1 for 3 decades now, was wondering if their straight 30wt had the same improvements. After rear main changing more than once years ago, I realized I didn't need even 40wt. Pressure is still plenty with 30.
Thank you so much for your efforts. I sort of geek out on this stuff too!
I would be interested in seeing you compare the VR1 conventional vs the VR1 full synthetic to see if there is much more to be had for the extra money between the two.
The additive package is the same, so the difference is the base oils, which is a significant difference.
@@themotoroilgeek synthetic base oil being significantly better? Or significantly worse than the conventional base oil? I use both the 10w30 vr1 and 20w-50 vr1 in 2 different vehicles so just curious if the synthetic would be a worthwhile upgrade for the added cost.
@@themotoroilgeekSo is the VR-1 synthetic a superior oil vs the conventional one? Considering for a high output marine application
I have a 2013 Ford Focus st and I did a oil change full synthetic 10w30 oil change and a week later my turbo eat up the oil and almost went dry I since changed the oil and went with the vr1 racing oil 20/50 and great results since I have better idle and running better .
Ever since i rebuilt my mgb 1800 engine i have only used valvoline vr1 20-50
Just found you a few days ago and subscribed! I have always been interested in this kind of stuff and you explain in it the best. I have several diesel trucks that I am always looking for oil with a high zddp. Can this oil be run in a 1995 ford 7.3 liter Powerstroke, a 1997 dodge 5.9 liter 12 valve cummins and a 2011 dodge 6.7 litter cummins?
Thanks for the comment and the kind words. This oil is not appropriate for diesel engines as it lacks the correct dispersant package. For a diesel, the oil really needs the API diesel rating.
@SPEEDiagnostix
Thanks for the reply! Makes sense! I know diesels need a high detergent to keep them clean! Is there any oil that you would recommend for the older diesel engines?
Even though it's a racing oil does the lower amount of detergent effect the the change intervals... for those of use running it in a street application
Great question.
Looking forward to your video on engine oil types best suitable for GDI turbo engines and oil change interval recommendations.
Thanks. We have so many video requests it might be a bit before we can get to all of them, but it is great to see how many people are interested.
@@themotoroilgeek thanks. But i hope you will give priority to this topic since GDI engines are very common now and many owners use unsuitable oils and long drain intervals as with port fuel injected engines. It would be most useful to have an experts opinion on this.
@speediagnostix any chance you could test mobil delvac 1630? Its a 30w rated api cf/sf with a 11.5 cst, 12 tbn, and 1.4% ash. Curious how the zddp and detergent package is as its 1/2 the price of vr1.
Hope there is a supercomputer or a lot of videos on one video information with v6.
Two questions, is the VR one 20w50 racing oil good to use in a 2016 Corvette Direct Injection supercharged LT 4 engine ...? Also, is that good to use in my big block Chevy? That is a Solid Roller Camshaft...?
Hi Lake,
Because all of the SP oils have less detergents in the oil do you need to change them more frequently to prevent sludge from forming? Thanks for all you do.
Actually not. The SP oils have excellent anti-oxidant properties, so they live just as long as the previous oils.