Is The NEW Valvoline VR1 A Good Oil? A Certified Lubrication Specialist Reveals The Results!
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- Опубліковано 12 чер 2024
- Valvoline VR1 is the oldest and best selling Racing Oil on the market, but does that mean it is any good? Lake Speed Jr, a world renowned Tribologist, reveals the changes to the Valvoline VR1 formula to the API SP spec and how that has impacted the wear protection of this oil.
Oils across the globe have been changing due to the advent of the API SP and GM dexos 1 engine oil specs, and Lake gets into the chemistry changes behind these specs. Hint: it has to do with Low Speed Pre-Ignition and the Calcium detergent levels.
Here's a link to another video specifically about LSPI:
• How To Prevent LSPI Fr...
To get started with oil analysis, visit www.speediagnostix.com
Valvoline products are available at amzn.to/3t5ZJmE
Here's a link to a video with additional information about API SP oils: • Oil Problem? When You ...
This post contains affiliates links (that at no cost to you) I may earn a teeny tiny commission if you choose to purchase them.
#oilanalysis #motoroil - Авто та транспорт
Your father was one heck of a driver and champion! One of my dad's favorite drivers as well!
Thanks!
Good breakdown of the VR1. It's great that oil companies are still making old style oils for flat tappet cams etc.
Thanks!
How does the Synthetic VR1 version compare?
@@dr.john-markcain4946it's BLUE 🔵💙🔵💙
I use it in my '68 Ford F-100 with a427 stroker.
I've been running the VR1 in 10 30 in my sbc for years. Its kept it alive.
Thanks, Lake, for sharing your insight and experience with these oils and their performance in engines.
Very much appreciate these technical videos. Thank you Lake!
My pleasure!
Simple. Straightforward. Just the info I needed for deciding synthetic oil for my '70 Challenger big block. Appreciate the effort in a timely manner.
Thank you!
Good to see Lake Jr.! He's a huge expert on oil, piston rings and all parts of v8 performance!
Thanks!
Great video, Lake.
Technical, clear and well presented. Nice one!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video! Puts a bit of "unknown" to rest. I've been using it in my race engines and doing so was based on an older test on valvoline and several other "top" engine oils. VR1 was on top of the game then, and glad to see it's even better than it was. Awesome 👏🏼
I’m glad you liked the video!
Ol' Mitch Stapleton brought me here, and I'm so thankful!! Learning a lot from you and I truly appreciate it!!
Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek keep up the awesome content!!
Great news Lake, thanks for covering this oil and the comparison with M1 15-50.
I use the M1 in the turbo Peugeot and the VR1 in the 60s Alfa and 3.2 911. Good to hear the reassure g news.
THANKS
We are happy to help!
Thanks for the video. Look forward to more motor oil reviews in the future.
More to come!
Been using it exclusively for 40 yrs,great oil ,never had a oil failure issue using it
Thanks for the info. I have a Golen 383 LT1 (460hp/440 ft lb) in my 4th Gen Camaro. He recommended Valvoline VR1 20W50 which I use. I run the engine hard to its 6,500 rpm redline at the track and autocross without any problems for about 5 years now.
Thanks!
Very very interesting. Love the numbers talk and the science behind it.
Thanks!
thanks for the info. all my amc race engines run valvoline vr1 . glad to hear this
Works great in small air-cooled engines as well. It saved my portable generator when it had to run in 100 degree weather. Several of my neighbors burned up theirs using regular 10W30. Don't take chances. Use VR1 in those hot running screamers.
Kendall is better. in the old days we compared it to Castrol and Kendall and it didnt even compare. Now they say its good......I dont trust them. they were selling smoke and mirrors for years on that detergent rich garbage. Breaks down in a very short period on an air cooled. Try Kendall.
After 33 years using straight 30 VR1 in a sbc in a 70 Monte Carlo the engine
is just as clean as the day it was installed.
Thank you for the information.
I look forward to hearing you speak at your seminar at the PRI show
Thanks! See you there!
I can't stop watching your videos. So interesting. I took an oil analysis class at centralia community college in 2019 so I feel like I have a slightly better understanding comprehending your videos! I've been buying vr1 for 6+ years. I've been teeder tottering trying out Diesel truck Engine oils to save cost also to get 10w40 instead of rocking 10w 30 I've been running in Florida state.
That is awesome!
i love VR1. i used it forever in my aircooled porsches and also in my Harley
Wait. Your Harley, what about the wet clutch?
I use VR1 in my hotrod Harley too. Love it
@@mandytuningI run VR1 in my 1957 KR 750 Harley with a wet clutch. I race it flat track and it’s great.
I was hoping I wasn't going to hear bad news about my oil. Turns out it's EXCELLENT news! Thanks for doing this video.
Thank you!
@@themotoroilgeek Hello, on the VR1 20w-50 I saw 1 quart that said Full Synthetic and another that just said Synthetic. If it doesnt say "Full Syn" does that mean its just a part semi blend??? Both were black bottles Ty
I have two classic Hi Po cars and I use VR1 / Great Oil.
GREAT News!
I Still have about 40 Quarts from 2018 to go through.
It's all I USE.
Solid Roller Cam.
Love your videos brother and learning so much. I have read that there are several different versions of ZDDP used in oils now and something about longer lasting chemical ability. Can you sometime in a video explain this?
Thank you! And yes, there are several different types of ZDDP. They don't all act the same, so I will do a video about that sometime. Too many good ideas and not enough time...
I have been always using this in my Harley.
Thank you for this info. Very helpfully.
👍👍👍
Love this content! Question, is the centistoke test the measure of flow in both test temperatures measured in seconds? Is it a measure of time? Keep this stuff coming Mr Speed!!
Centistokes is a flow measurement using time as the standard, so the higher the number the slower the flow (i.e. higher viscosity). Put another way, viscosity is another way of saying "resistance to flow". The higher the viscosity, the more resistance to flow.
Thanks for your very clear explanation🙂
Thanks for the comment.
Use this in my 73 Mach 1 351C. It was recommended when I bought the car two years ago.
I’ve got an old Buick 455 still decent at almost 140k miles. Definitely switching to this oil
Currently using this VR1 in my 95’ Toyota Supra
Built motor making over 800hp
When I saw Valvoline 20W50 I thought you were going to say they changed it for the worse. I have used this oil for over 25 years in my E30 325IS and have been very pleased. And am glad its better now. Thanks for the knowledge.
Thank you!
It is too thick for that engine.
@@V8Lenny not if you race... Also depends on climate, for 15+ C° it's fine on cold starts also
@@514aam it is. You want flow, not restriction.
I use that in my old E30 with M10 too. It’s good oil.
Thanks Lake, you da best!
Thanks Brian! I appreciate your support!
I only use Valvoline VR1 in my 6 classic cars. I am bias as Dad had one job after he graduated college..... Ashland/Valvoline. He was Valvoline racing director 1960-1970. But I know that Ashland does make a good product (Valvoline is spun off now) so I'd use it anyway.
I just found your channel when it came up in my feed. GREAT info!!!
BTW I had a NASCAR vendor license 1983-1999 and had a few dealings with your Dad. Nice guy to work with. Last product was a Pruex Ford model T bank!!! Crazy days of NASCAR!! Thanks
That is awesome! Speaking of the Purex car, check this out: ua-cam.com/video/NcPgD1-PppQ/v-deo.htmlsi=vruwgy0cw6fRHWUr
Love your videos, always great info. Would the vr1 10w30 have same additive package??
Yes, it will.
Good breakdown, good that despite their super strong brand recognition,
Valvoline is still making VR1 high quality relative to the price
Thanks!
I use VR1 in my race car that has Rotary engine using Methanol at 10,000rpms and it holds oil pressure between 80 to 100psi, when I open the engine to re-fresh the internal parts look great, definitely a great product.
the old stuff was terrible. I wont ever use it again. Ruined several race engines. Now Kendall Or castrol synthetic is ok
Good info. Seems like most thought the new API rating would be bad for this old school oil.
Thanks. There has been speculation that SP is a step backwards, but it is actually a good step forward.
Would Love to see you do a review on Redline Ester Based Line of Products.
I use VR1 synthetic on my 2jzgte vvti running 25psi of boost. That is the engine from the Toyota Supra turbo making a little over 500hp. The 2j community loves this oil.
Thanks for sharing!
I've used it in my sbc that has worn bearings and somewhat low oil pressure. 10-30 oil pressure drops to about 5psi when hot at idle. 20-50 drops to 15 hot. Helps the mind more than the engine.
The thicker viscosity will help with the looser bearing clearances.
I'd like to hear your opinion on the Kendall competition 20w50
Great video man. I ride harley twin cam bikes. Usually I'll use Lucas syn oil, until I heard about tribodyn. I'd love to see you review tribodyn 20/50 oil, as well as Lucas 20/50....thanks..
I subscribed to your channel man.
Gonna start using VR1 in my FE and my IH engines.
Loving the channel! Any plans on reviewing the full synthetic VR1 10w30? Debating using it for track days in my C5 corvette. I fear the 20w50 may be too thick.
The 10W-30 synthetic has the same additive package as the 20W-50 conventional, but for a C5 Vette, I'd go with the Mobil 1 0W-40 Supercar oil instead.
Thanks for all you do buddy. Just wondering what you think about Lucas oil treatment. I've used it for years and no issues but just wanted your opinion of it. Thanks again
good news i use this all the time thanks.🤩
Thanks!
Hey Lake i've watched a bunch of your videos on oil. I beleive you have some very good information and points.
In my opinion what everyone seems to miss is that water cooled engines pretty much run in a controled environment , except for the start up/warm up period.
My thinking is in a warmer climate like southern US a straight 30w is sufficient. No need for all the additive to change the viscosity. Auto mfg's are going to this 5k - 10k between oil changes that's bs. I have have always told my customers the best oil is fresh clean oil recomended for your vehicle/engine. An oil filter will never get all the particles out of dirty oil. Then oil filters have bypasses so only a portion gets filtered. The micrscopic particles get impregnated in the pores of metal and never unlodged.
Just my 2 cents worth well with inflation that's $ .002 worth ha!
Thanks for the comment and for watching! I agree that long oil drain intervals are not good for engine wear. Clean oil and fresh filters do a world of good.
Thanks. Interesting how additives compete with each other on surfaces.
I also got my first SPEEDDIAGNOSTIX kit results and am really impressed how easy the report is to understand.👍
Thanks! We appreciate the support!
Thanks for the great detailed video on this “special oil”.
I love learning from your expertise on this channel!
I usually put Pennzoil Platinum high mileage full synthetic or Valvoline high mileage full synthetic both in my ‘95 Crown Victoria with 230,000 miles on the odometer.
Runs great, smooth and quiet but “burns” too much with 5W30 so I upgraded to 10W30 and it is better, factory recommendations are 5 or 10w30.
Would VR1 20W50 be better suited or would it definitely be too thick?
Thanks ;)
Top vids by the way it’s golden info for the price! Lol I’m no expert but Vr1 definitely is pretty good oil! I’d use it more often but like so many better oils it’s just a bit pricey here! I used it in the past when the Oil I normally use wasn’t available and I can’t complain about it! my setup is hard on oil often running rich also with two pumps and very high pressure for the application!(my dodgy way to gain crank stability) and plus the turbo in hot climate! recently bought some gulf western comp to try as it’s widely used in competition locally, my measurements for oil quality go as far as monitoring it’s ability to resist degradation in time and it’s ability to hold good high temperature pressure and regular dismantling and inspection of the engine internally although it’s a daily drive it’s still stripped at least twice a year! Also after just watching another of your vids gave me an idea that another reason some oils might struggle in my turbo v6 is I will often run octane booster and I’ll have to check the ingredients but it’s probably a contributing factor why some oil struggled to last
Fuel quality certainly makes a difference!
Hey Junior can you please do a video anylsis epsiode comparing different Valvoline engine oils! 😃
I wonder how Brad Penn 20w50 compares to VR1 I have Ran them both but the Brad Penn has shown absolutely incredible wear results at least in my experience
Would love to see a review/test on Neo Synthetic oils.
I use VR1 in my small engine shop. Most don't understand that there needs to be an increased zinc package in the air cooled Briggs, Kohler, Kawi etc. The factory labeled oils do have a zinc package, I think the VR1 does better. have started using Amsoil small engine and have seen very good results.
Yes, the small engines need a more robust ZDDP (Zinc) package, so the VR1 and other higher ZDDP oils are a better choice for small engines than regular passenger car engine oils.
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks!
Thank you for your comment. Have been researching if I could use Vr1 10w-30 on my zero turns Kohler 7000 series engines, because at my local Napa Vr1 is $6 a quart while Kohler oil is damn $12!
Pretty sure this shit saved my engine. Got an old Triumph Bonneville T140 that was all original, the old gaskets started leaking bad from being heat cycled after sitting for 4 decades. Sprung one so bad that I lost oil pressure, and didn't see the light right away. Tore it down to fix the leaks and check the bottom end, and despite almost running the oil out, it prevented damage and now she's back together and holding oil pressure better than she did when I bought her.
Valvoline says it's not recommended for wet clutches, but there's tons of people that run it in these vintage Triumphs without issues.
I'd love to know how much synthetics is added to this VR1 Conventional oils, so it can carry the SP donut on the label. We know that a pure mineral is hard to pass SP requirements and most blender use a little synthetic and refrain to call it semisynthetic, because its getting less than 10%. By the oxidation levei is nil in POE, but coukd have some G-III.
Hello Mr. Lake. I found your channel after seeing you on stapleton42s videos! Love the info.
Have you had a chance to compare diesel oil brands?
Thanks. Check out this video Diesel Oils DON’T Always Have MORE ZDDP? Let's take a look!
ua-cam.com/video/7gkegS8wM88/v-deo.html
I have a ‘70 Buick 455 motor that’s been rebuilt .030 over with a mild TA hydraulic flat tappet cam. It was broken in on conventional Valvoline 10W30 and Lucas TB Zinc-Plus. On my last oil change I went with FS VR1 10w30. Im in Northern California and rarely drive this car and am about to do the yearly oil change. Few Q’s for ya.
-Would I benefit going to to another FS like Mobil1 0w40, 5w30, 15w50 or VR1 20w50?
I just saw your other video of the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which looks great as well!
Thanks in advance!
Thompson Motorsports built the Supercharged LS427 in my CTS-V. They recommended Valvoline VR1 20W50 and I add Motorkote friction reducer .....excellent wear protection for my 1000hp street car.
Thanks for sharing
I'm surprised an engine builder suggested a conventional oil for something that radical.
Wish you would do a test on shell rotella t4 on the zinc level and any wear capability
Hello, this is cool that you are actually answering questions in the comments!
When were these changes made in the production VR1 oils?
I am looking at one of my bottles of VR1 20w-50 Full Synthetic and it doesn't mention SP at all. It says "Exceeds API service SL" and that's all. Why don't they say exceeds SP? I bought that oil in December of 2022. Thanks!
I’m happy to help. That must be old stock as the SP rating went into effect in May of 2020.
@@themotoroilgeek OMG. The "Valvoline Store" on Amazon was selling it for $7.50 a quart for over a year, all through 2022. Maybe that's why it was so cheap. Now all of a sudden I see the price on the same page is $10.44 per qt if you buy a 6-pack. So they probably ran out of old stock and now it's the more expected price for synthetic. Sheesh. The pics shown on that page, you can read the back of the bottle which is good, but what I see is it still says "SL" on the back. Well it's pretty typical for Amazon sellers to not keep their pics up to date. But one thing that should be up to date is the latest Valvoline Product Information sheet for this oil which is dated March 3 2023, and it doesn't say anything about any API service class! No mention of SP, SL or any other classification! Good grief! Now I know they don't get these oils actually certified by API because it is racing oil. But the "meets" such and such is still valuable info and they should give it somewhere. Well if there's anything you can do to get the Valvoline guys to be more forthcoming about it, that would be extra cool. Thanks!
Would love to see regular valvoline examined.
Great suggestion!
I would like to see some videos on rotella t4 15w40 new formulation that's synthetic blend. Also the castrol edge 5w30 A3B4 oil. Maybe even quaker states 5w40 a3b4 Api sp oil as well.
We will add them to our list!
Can you look at Rotella 15 40 and see how it compares to older oils and vr1
Nice review. I have used this oil in my commercial Kawasaki FS600V and the oil analysis came back just as good as did the Amsoil 20W-50 I had been using.
How about the VR1 20W-50 in the black bottle that is "Full Synthetic" any better or worse than the silver bottle?
Thanks. The synthetic has the same additive package.
I hope you could go over more Valvoline products?
Coming soon...
I run the 10w-30 VR1 , same additives as the 20w-50 in a my 1993 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 , it's really good oil. Pennzoil ultra platinum in my wife's Hyundai Accent
Just put a new top end on a Harley V twin. It was suggested to me to try the VR1 so put it in today. Can't find much online about using it in Harleys. I like the Zn amount, especially in a new engine. Do you have any thoughts on the subject Lake?
Howdy from western Colorado! I have been using Castrol Edge 5-50 in my flat tappet vehicles. What do you think of it?
Good videos. Thoughts about a flat tappet friendly oil for those of us that drive year round? Seems everything geared to flat tappets is 20w50, which isn't something I want in my engine when its -20C. Even my 'loose' engine wasn't happy starting in late fall when the temperatures started kissing the freezing point overnight with 15w50 and it reminded me it was time to get 10w30 or 5w30 in it for the upcoming winter season.
VR1 is available in 10w30
@@Ricky-js7vy At ridiculously inflated prices here in Canada, if you can even find it. 20w50? No problem. Personally, I find it ironic that here in Canada where we get below freezing temperatures that something as benign as a decent oil is hard to find in a 10w30 and that 20w50, and 15w40 dominate the shelves for oils that are not modern mainstream low zddp oils.
VR1 Synthetic is good too. Thanks , Lake.
Yes, same additive package.
Today's word of the day is "Synchronicity": Literally took delivery of 10 litres (I'm in YooRope ;) ) of this stuff yesterday for my SBC350 '71 Camaro. UA-cam suggested a Stapleton42 video and that led me here :)
Too cool!
I'll give it a try.
I'm an Amsoil user though, it'll be tough switching permanently.
It’s all about the chemistry and not the brands. If Amsoil has an oil with similar chemistry, give it a go as well.
@@themotoroilgeek 👍
I've been using Amsoil for 15 years. At the time, I figured if going to use synthetic oil, I might as well go with the ones who invented it.
Please do shell rotella T6. I use it in my Nissan 350z helps with burning oil and cleans the engine really good
We can add that one to our list.
It’s what i run in my Harley Davidson.
Hi Lake,
Because all of the SP oils have less detergents in the oil do you need to change them more frequently to prevent sludge from forming? Thanks for all you do.
Actually not. The SP oils have excellent anti-oxidant properties, so they live just as long as the previous oils.
Just found you a few days ago and subscribed! I have always been interested in this kind of stuff and you explain in it the best. I have several diesel trucks that I am always looking for oil with a high zddp. Can this oil be run in a 1995 ford 7.3 liter Powerstroke, a 1997 dodge 5.9 liter 12 valve cummins and a 2011 dodge 6.7 litter cummins?
Thanks for the comment and the kind words. This oil is not appropriate for diesel engines as it lacks the correct dispersant package. For a diesel, the oil really needs the API diesel rating.
@SPEEDiagnostix
Thanks for the reply! Makes sense! I know diesels need a high detergent to keep them clean! Is there any oil that you would recommend for the older diesel engines?
This is the oil I use in my Fox body mustang 351w always have
looks like a badass add pack to me.
It is definitely better than the old API SM package with all that Sodium.
@@themotoroilgeek valvoline and castrol blew sodium off years ago. that was the old api sm and sl add pack.
Hope there is a supercomputer or a lot of videos on one video information with v6.
Hi Lake, great video. I'm currently running driven hr2 recommended by the engine builder in my hydraulic roller 500hp 347 windsor that only gets driven every other weekend. Do you think it's a good choice? How would it compare to the VR1?
Thanks for the comment! The Driven GP-1 would be my recommendation. It provides even better protection than either the HR2 or VR1.
Awesome thanks for the reply 👍
I've been watching these videos with great information.
On my bmws that I track/street drive at 150k/160k miles I'm using either redline, valveline, motul racing oils and used penzoil in the past. Haven't had any issues so far....
Now on my 2004 Acura tsx I put in whatever synthetic cheaper engine oil I have around (mobil 1, amazon basics, castrol, partial used oil from hybrid cars etc 😅) 5w 30, 0w 30, 5w 40, diesel oil 5w 30 oil and it's at 260k miles now....
At what point or mileage do I know which oil is better when the honda motor k24 with whatever I put in it most likely outlast the other engines?
Would this be an appropriate oil for a pre vortec 5.7 gm marine engine- it’s a flat tappet martinized gm 350 that runs at a consistent 34-3800 rpm. Appreciate your informative videos!
I was worried as I saw the "too much zinc" video the other day and was wondering about this. It's have VR-1 since the build in 2017, and I was hoping to not have to change that.
Thanks for the great vids!!!
That said, would you have any recommendations if I wanted to go to a synthetic oil?
427 FE ford motor. Mild build.
The synthetic VR1 is great stuff.
I would be interested in seeing you compare the VR1 conventional vs the VR1 full synthetic to see if there is much more to be had for the extra money between the two.
The additive package is the same, so the difference is the base oils, which is a significant difference.
@@themotoroilgeek synthetic base oil being significantly better? Or significantly worse than the conventional base oil? I use both the 10w30 vr1 and 20w-50 vr1 in 2 different vehicles so just curious if the synthetic would be a worthwhile upgrade for the added cost.
I think you are making a case for using a VR 1 or a similar product in classic pushrod cast iron engines. It might have just enough zinc to protect the cam lobes. I just did my speed research. In a forum I saw, one poster called VR 1 a street oil labeled as a racing oil. They also said that Valvoline made other racing oils labeled as not street legal because their levels of zinc would damage the catalytic converters. But Postwar vehicles from the 50s through the mid-70s did not have catalytic converters. Still, full racing oil might be too much for them. Right or wrong?
Would you recommend VR1 synthetic version for high performance Audi engines like RS3 which has direct and port injection.
I'd like to see you do a video on the best oil to use in air-cooled engines and compare the different brands of oil search as Kohler brand and Kawasaki brand and I think amsoil has their own formulated oil for air cooled engines
Hello Sir, what are your thoughts about lighter weight oils in marine applications. I have an LS1 in my ski boat it the caps say use 15w40 - if this engine was in a car it would be 5w30 - do you think sticking with the heavier oil still is valid or is 5w30 better? We boat in 50-90 degree days and typically run 3000-4000 rpm. If this was a SBC 350 i wouldn't think much about it but i have always wondered what an expert thought about 5w30 in marine applications.
Great video!! But why the sole focus on the mineral 20w50? They make other weights too for tighter bearing clearances and/or less extreme applications. There is also a synthetic version. I would be curious to know more about the whole spectrum. For example I run 10w30 mineral VR1 on my small block Mopar.
The family of VR1 products all use the same additive package, so the positive changes to the 20W-50 conventional VR1 apply to the other viscosity grades of VR1 (both conventional and synthetic).
@@themotoroilgeek Awesome, thank you!
@@bigboreracing356 now no one serious cares about your juvenile opinion.
@themotoroilgeek Ahhh, thanks for that. Been scrolling the comments to find this answer. Mopar guy, use VR1 for 3 decades now, was wondering if their straight 30wt had the same improvements. After rear main changing more than once years ago, I realized I didn't need even 40wt. Pressure is still plenty with 30.
Thank you so much for your efforts. I sort of geek out on this stuff too!
How about the straight wt, I use 60 weight VR1 in my old Harley.
@speediagnostix any chance you could test mobil delvac 1630? Its a 30w rated api cf/sf with a 11.5 cst, 12 tbn, and 1.4% ash. Curious how the zddp and detergent package is as its 1/2 the price of vr1.
30 wt. In my stock VW Bug. Happy with it.
GeneBerg always recommended Valvoline 30wt for Beetle engines as his testing showed the best results.
Yay! Valvoline eliminated the Sodium from their additive package.
Do you know if the same additive package is used in the 10w30 version?
Two questions, is the VR one 20w50 racing oil good to use in a 2016 Corvette Direct Injection supercharged LT 4 engine ...? Also, is that good to use in my big block Chevy? That is a Solid Roller Camshaft...?
I considered the old formulation to be very similar to the older versions HDEO's such as Delo or Rotella .
Would you consider the newer versions of these Diesel oils to also be similar to the new Valvoline VR1 ?
Thanks for the question. No, the new formula features more friction modifiers and less detergent than typical diesel oils, which is why the performance of the oil has increased with this formula change.
Would your recommend using 10w30 vr1 in s2000 thats catless? Its used for street and occasional track / canyon racing
How does this new formulation compare to Driven GP-1? I have an old Corvette with an aggressive mechanical flat-tappet cam. Back when you worked for Driven, we spoke about oils for flat-tappet cams. You said GP-1 was the best for wear and performance. I was running VR1 at the time, but I have been running 10W-30 GP-1 since.
The Driven GP-1 has even better wear protection than the reformulated VR1. While the VR1 produced .0001 wear per cam lobe, the GP-1 produced .00002 wear per cam lobe, so it was substantially better.