A public comment. This is one of the best axle mod videos on youtube. Ive trussed about 20 AAM front Dodge diesel axles and even on the new bare housings the dimensions are all over the place. I used a fixture that preloaded them 1/4 inch.But I kept them in the fixture during the whole welding process because those axles seem to flex alot more than a solid housing.
I've watched a number of videos on different ford 9" modifications. By far this video most clearly shows the details involved in this particular process. The videography was great, and you explained why and how each step was performed. Great Job!
Good job and well thought out plan. Planning out your method of attack and executing with precision led to a top quality piece. No matter how long it takes I never compromise the integrity of my finished product. Can't say it enough.....GOOD JOB!
Tim, while you're there (or next time you're there) you should talk to Dan and see if you can do a detailed video tour of RuffStuff's facility. I would think that would make for a great video. I'd love to see their processes, from design to prototyping, manufacturing, and shipping. I've bought tons of parts from them over the years, and I think if other people could see what goes into their products they might realize what a bargain RuffStuff's products are.
I narrow alot of housings in race car chassis shop, I think factory used robot welders on them housings, have had 2grind weld even off back covers and reweld them, great job on brace, we do middle last also!
This is a super cool project to build a nice, solid, garage built HD axle housing. The only thing I would do differently (as an expert keyboard wheeling enthusiast) is put the drain plug in a location where it won't get scraped over rocks and mashed
Great Video! Obviously your method worked, but what I was curious about was, when preloading and tacking the truss, I figured the truss would not offer much resistance gve the 2 cuts in it to form around the banjo housing.
If Bleepin Jeep could teach me how to tie a tie and not say fuck in church or when I'm talking to the in laws I really don't think I would have any use for the rest of the UA-cam
Thanks for the question! This particular table has height adjusters at the base of each leg. You can check the table top for flatness by using a large straight edge on end. If the table is twisted for some reason it can be corrected with the feet adjusters.
I'm just doing some research since I plan to do some welding on a solid axle and I've never worked with solid axles before. Im just curious, what's the purpose of a truss? is it mainly for off roading to protect the axle from rocks and stuff?
I assume you're going to cap the ends of the axle truss? Also, I'd add a strip of metal over the lower section of the housing where the ring gear is to prevent denting the housing into it.
all materials ultimately have a cycle to failure. some are very high like good old american steel. that's why those poor welds were sufficient. I see the same poor craftsmanship on old ford parts but they never stopped the vehicle. even bad frame welds that never mattered and the truck was in use. Never fails to amaze me how far you can run a ford. Great Vid thanks and be well!
troytree guy poor welds are overlooked unless it's structural. I build 60 ton cranes for a living and I can tell you that if my weld has one spot of porosity, the whole seam would have to be cut out and redone.
this is the same thing, mild steel and short circuit mig. you obviously dont know what youre talking about. also usually if they warp. and they will always warp to some extent. its never enough to really cause an issue
That was impressive, I just don't like the way the kits work for disk brakes. In my area I need the emergency brakes to work, and I don't see how yours could work? Maybe adapting Ford 8.8 brackets?
I have been looking in to this. Depending on the housing ends, you can use the Ford 8.8 backing plates and brakes. If you have the Late Big Bearing / Torino ends then you can bolt on the brakes.
I have a 2013 mustang gt with both rear tires worn more from outer half than inner half. The wear from outside to inner is gradual. Is this sign of bent axle housing?
Great job, but a little bit of a overkill with the preload. Clamp it, weld it, let it cool; unless it's stainless or another steel alloy, it should warp very little.
Cool videos! I have a ranch property off of a dirt road 20 miles to the nearest town. What used 4x4 pickup truck would you recommend for driving in heavy mud/snow for every day commuting to town. I want to spend about $4,000. max. This truck will be used heavily everyday so I don't want a expensive new one.
Hey Jerome! Go find your self an older 3/4 ton or 1 ton 4x4 pickup with a healthy V8. Doesn't matter which brand they all had their strengths and weaknesses.The simple V8 should be reliable and easy to fix and the solid front axle will handle most of the abuse you would throw at it as a ranch rig! A manual trans will also simplify things!
Hey Tim, wondering what you guys did with the breather hole. I got my truss from Ruffstuff recently and was mocking it up and realized that the truss covers up the factory breather. Did you drill and tap another one? Any insight you can give would be great.
BleepinJeep Thanks Matt. Can you give any idea where you placed it? I might just have to wait and see as I also have an upper truss and 4 link mounts to go on as well as the backbone. Appreciate the quick reply!
newer cars today don't have drain plugs on things like this. It's nothing new really. I just guess back then they figured most of those vehicles would never see the mileage needed to change out the lubricant.
I just pulled the 9in out of my 78 bronco because the leaf perches sheared. and same damn thing, passenger side perch weld was full of porosity and the other side was the same deal. almost as if there was no argon on the mig . also, it seams like the opposite sides of each perch the welds had zero penetration to the the axle tubing. so basically the perches were only held on by 1 weld each.. and the weld was worm holed all to fuck. I thought a previous owner might have done it but, judging by how the axle came out, I could tell no one had ever taken it apart... so those shirty welds are factory... WHAT IN THE LITERAL FUCK!!!!
Uhmmm.... Lost me. Most people truss across the top because flex up and down is common when the wheel hits an obstacle. Anyhow - you're correct that the weld is airy. In those years hand welded arc was more common. Also many of these axles were reused time and time again. Therefore the brackets were likely re-welded and possibly repositioned unless you know the donor vehicle was all original. I like the idea of the added drain. The factory left that out to lower production costs, just like most transmissions as well. Unfortunately placing a drain on one of the axles strong points was the original issue. Also you lower the center toward the scrub line. I wonder if the back truss absorbs any up-down motion as well?
A public comment. This is one of the best axle mod videos on youtube. Ive trussed about 20 AAM front Dodge diesel axles and even on the new bare housings the dimensions are all over the place. I used a fixture that preloaded them 1/4 inch.But I kept them in the fixture during the whole welding process because those axles seem to flex alot more than a solid housing.
Glad to see you coming back around more often on the channel.
That has got to be some of the neatest beads I have seen.
Looks 'factory'. Great job!
I've watched a number of videos on different ford 9" modifications. By far this video most clearly shows the details involved in this particular process. The videography was great, and you explained why and how each step was performed. Great Job!
Love the welding videos! Patient welding process definitely pays off.
Good job and well thought out plan. Planning out your method of attack and executing with precision led to a top quality piece. No matter how long it takes I never compromise the integrity of my finished product. Can't say it enough.....GOOD JOB!
That's some quality welding. Congratulations!
Tim we need more of your videos!! you are so thorough and detailed which for XJ's is amazing. Keep them up
Thanks you! - Tim
I knew your preload would be perfect (unchanged) because you took exactly the right approach. Perfect method = perfect results.
Wow! Nice addition to your team Matt. Welcome.e aboard Tim. I look forward to more. 🤘
Really looking forward to watching this build play out. Considering a similar build myself.
I can't wait to see the jeep when it is all done!
I wish I could put down a bead as nice as yours:) Great video buddy
Just takes some practice, like most things haha
Tim, while you're there (or next time you're there) you should talk to Dan and see if you can do a detailed video tour of RuffStuff's facility. I would think that would make for a great video. I'd love to see their processes, from design to prototyping, manufacturing, and shipping. I've bought tons of parts from them over the years, and I think if other people could see what goes into their products they might realize what a bargain RuffStuff's products are.
Chris Parrish meh
Great idea Chris! We should definitely do something like that!
craftsmanship is impeccable
just picked up my 44 and 9 inch outta a 78 supercab, just started tearing into them. nice idea about the drain hole didn't think of that
I narrow alot of housings in race car chassis shop, I think factory used robot welders on them housings, have had 2grind weld even off back covers and reweld them, great job on brace, we do middle last also!
I've got some serious bead envy going on right now. Great video! Well made and easy to follow.
Great info. Great teacher. Keep it up brother.
Damn you’re good! That looks beautiful!
Extremely thorough, thank you
Those barstools are sick!!!!!
This is a super cool project to build a nice, solid, garage built HD axle housing. The only thing I would do differently (as an expert keyboard wheeling enthusiast) is put the drain plug in a location where it won't get scraped over rocks and mashed
Great Video! Obviously your method worked, but what I was curious about was, when preloading and tacking the truss, I figured the truss would not offer much resistance gve the 2 cuts in it to form around the banjo housing.
Best mig weld bead ive ever seen
Outstanding. Keep up the good work.
Nice work Tim
Those are some pretty welds.
Like Davinci with those welds! Awesome job!!!
want more videos like this keep it up
awesome welding job
Very good job.
Great video, very informative and helpful. Thank you!
Very good welding
god damn thats one beautiful piece
Great video man
Great Job bro
Great video... Thank you.
I'm in awe.
Great info.. and video.. very informative.
Great information presented professionally. Question, why are some trusses on top and some on the back like yours?
If Bleepin Jeep could teach me how to tie a tie and not say fuck in church or when I'm talking to the in laws I really don't think I would have any use for the rest of the UA-cam
great video!
Nice video
Great job
Awesome video, this is not just the drugs talking ;)
very nice job on the vid.
MADE IN THE USA.. love that..
What did you do about the housing vent ?
Wow, awesome. Beautiful work. How do you ensure your table is 100% flat?
Thanks for the question! This particular table has height adjusters at the base of each leg. You can check the table top for flatness by using a large straight edge on end. If the table is twisted for some reason it can be corrected with the feet adjusters.
Very good way to add the plug for draining fluid. What about fill plug ?
Very cool.
You could also use a heat sink to keep the HAZ to a minimum and help avoid warpage.
I'm just doing some research since I plan to do some welding on a solid axle and I've never worked with solid axles before. Im just curious, what's the purpose of a truss? is it mainly for off roading to protect the axle from rocks and stuff?
it keeps the axle from bending or breaking under heavy hits or stresses.
That's the way to do it
NICELY DONE VIDEO @ THE VERY BEGINING WE COULDNT HEAR U WELL BUT THE SOUND WAS BETTER THREW THE REST OF IT ALL !!!!!!!!!
hey I'm trussing a 9" right now what did you do about the breather vent hole did you plug weld it and redrill and tap somewhere else?
What are the plans for this build?
I assume you're going to cap the ends of the axle truss? Also, I'd add a strip of metal over the lower section of the housing where the ring gear is to prevent denting the housing into it.
awesome!
Have a look a Defender Mods and Travels for great guidance on axle issues, including reinforcement aimed at reducing fatigue failure.
One question. The drain plug was a great idea! But how about filling? Curious as to what you'll do for that?
The middle section (3rd member) has a factory fill hole. - Tim
all materials ultimately have a cycle to failure. some are very high like good old american steel. that's why those poor welds were sufficient. I see the same poor craftsmanship on old ford parts but they never stopped the vehicle. even bad frame welds that never mattered and the truck was in use. Never fails to amaze me how far you can run a ford. Great Vid thanks and be well!
troytree guy poor welds are overlooked unless it's structural. I build 60 ton cranes for a living and I can tell you that if my weld has one spot of porosity, the whole seam would have to be cut out and redone.
Joshua Pulliam man I'd hate to have your job.. but would love to have that amount of skill
You're as close as Loomis? Hello from Auburn, only minutes away.
5:50 nice 4runner in the background.
Buen video hermano
are the ends of the truss water tight or will it rust inside out can be a home for critters?
I gets sealed up on the ends
Wow i welded on my own truss i made before and never even thought about the axle warping, Luckily it didnt, or it may have... o.o, O well
DeansFrags you don't have to worry about warping as much with mild steel and running short circuit transfer.
this is the same thing, mild steel and short circuit mig. you obviously dont know what youre talking about.
also usually if they warp. and they will always warp to some extent. its never enough to really cause an issue
@@boomstickkid
That's what they make alignment bars for.
Are you able to weld them while the axels are still installed you your vehicle?
Wow those are some beefy shafts.
Dest Droid HA! said your mom!
Subscribe with notifications! You are awesome and so it your content! Great attention to detail!!!!
That was impressive, I just don't like the way the kits work for disk brakes. In my area I need the emergency brakes to work, and I don't see how yours could work? Maybe adapting Ford 8.8 brackets?
I have been looking in to this. Depending on the housing ends, you can use the Ford 8.8 backing plates and brakes. If you have the Late Big Bearing / Torino ends then you can bolt on the brakes.
Are you keeping the stock gears?
I have a 2013 mustang gt with both rear tires worn more from outer half than inner half. The wear from outside to inner is gradual. Is this sign of bent axle housing?
Great job, but a little bit of a overkill with the preload. Clamp it, weld it, let it cool; unless it's stainless or another steel alloy, it should warp very little.
What we did worked just fine for us, overkill or now. Thanks - Tim
What wire did you use?
If you use an alignment bar and pucks you don’t need to “preload” the axle.
Bang for buck you can not beat the ford 9in. My buddy has a couple in his hord collection lol
Could I use a Ford 9 inch from a 66-69 f-100
why wouldnt you use a narrowing jig to check to see if the housing was true and housing ends true with the carrier bearings and not warped?
Cool videos! I have a ranch property off of a dirt road 20 miles to the nearest town. What used 4x4 pickup truck would you recommend for driving in heavy mud/snow for every day commuting to town. I want to spend about $4,000. max. This truck will be used heavily everyday so I don't want a expensive new one.
Hey Jerome! Go find your self an older 3/4 ton or 1 ton 4x4 pickup with a healthy V8. Doesn't matter which brand they all had their strengths and weaknesses.The simple V8 should be reliable and easy to fix and the solid front axle will handle most of the abuse you would throw at it as a ranch rig! A manual trans will also simplify things!
Agreed - Tim
Hey Tim, wondering what you guys did with the breather hole. I got my truss from Ruffstuff recently and was mocking it up and realized that the truss covers up the factory breather. Did you drill and tap another one? Any insight you can give would be great.
I dont know what Tim did but I welded it up and put another one somewhere else - Matt
BleepinJeep Thanks Matt. Can you give any idea where you placed it? I might just have to wait and see as I also have an upper truss and 4 link mounts to go on as well as the backbone. Appreciate the quick reply!
huh. i never noticed there wasent a drain on a ford 9 ive never acually thought about it. perhaps it was that era or model it was in.
newer cars today don't have drain plugs on things like this. It's nothing new really. I just guess back then they figured most of those vehicles would never see the mileage needed to change out the lubricant.
If the plug is at the bottom how do you fill it, take the whole axle off or is there also a tiny fill plug higher on it somewhere?
fill plug is in the "third member" (pinion side) between the webbing. You can see it at 2:20. Has a square hole for a 3/8" drive
its a 9 inch.it has a fill plug.
What is the purpose of that truss?
are you going to run them full width?
Heck yeah!
did you use the hobart handler 110
No I didn't. I used Rock and Road's Millermatic 212. The Hobart 140 I have probably could have handled the truss part though! - Tim
@@bleepinjeepHow do you think the Hobart Handler 140 would do with 1/4” rocker panel sliders?
I just pulled the 9in out of my 78 bronco because the leaf perches sheared.
and same damn thing, passenger side perch weld was full of porosity and the other side was the same deal. almost as if there was no argon on the mig . also, it seams like the opposite sides of each perch the welds had zero penetration to the the axle tubing.
so basically the perches were only held on by 1 weld each.. and the weld was worm holed all to fuck.
I thought a previous owner might have done it but, judging by how the axle came out, I could tell no one had ever taken it apart...
so those shirty welds are factory...
WHAT IN THE LITERAL FUCK!!!!
should have shaving the bottom vs plate
Uhmmm.... Lost me. Most people truss across the top because flex up and down is common when the wheel hits an obstacle. Anyhow - you're correct that the weld is airy. In those years hand welded arc was more common. Also many of these axles were reused time and time again. Therefore the brackets were likely re-welded and possibly repositioned unless you know the donor vehicle was all original. I like the idea of the added drain. The factory left that out to lower production costs, just like most transmissions as well. Unfortunately placing a drain on one of the axles strong points was the original issue. Also you lower the center toward the scrub line. I wonder if the back truss absorbs any up-down motion as well?
whats the purpose of a truss?
Check out QuickPerformance.com for back brace. Or have them make you a new Ford 9 inch.
You do mean AXLE housing not the AXLE??????? don't ya hmmmmmm, hmmmmmm !
#%$##%$%$#%!!!!!!!
What does D.A it mean?
Dual action sander I believe
Dual Action or Random Orbital Sander
What happened to the other guy guy that used to host this show? :(
Nothing. We have multiple contributors. - Tim
build me a rear end, please
Is it my hearing, or is he saying shalves?
Lol that poor ratchet strap. Shit is real when you use a cheater on one.
What did you do with the hole from the hardline?