Not a jeep dude but who doesn’t love off-road! I am about to weld up a 4-link in my sons D21. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and detailed pro tips from actual experience. Priceless baby. Appreciate you
Thanks! I was looking for the info on pre-heating and the tip on covering for slow cool was helpful also. I'm planning on tig welding but I bought some high nickle sticks just in case.
ARRGGGGH! Just finished a 1 ton Dana for a Rubi. I welded the tube to the pinion on the front because we used the Barnes truss on top and the instructions called for cutting off 2 inches of the cast steel on the short end. Doing that, I did weld the tube to the pinion all the way around. Three passes of 7018. I looked at the other side and thought, "Wonder if I should do this side as well?" Didn't, but the front axles are still in the garage....... I didn't use 55 because I only had one rod left. Me and the customer are gonna have a talk this morning. Customer is my grandson..
Toes of the weld look good and doesn’t seem to have porosity So function over form. Whipping the rod a bit might have you get the stacked look everyone likes. Great video!
I enjoyed your video. Looks great but I am in the camp of cold welding for best warp control. I only mig with stainless wire on cast iron. 3 stringer runs if best. Penetration is same hot or cold. I do rear diffs at home shop alone and never had a problem cold, heating is fine but just wanted to comment so others know more then one way to do it. Strange and Moser have turntable machines for perfect uniform welds. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Edgar, great instructions! I'm an amateur welder (never have used stick) so this isn't something I'm comfortable tackling myself (I know my limits LOL). I have been searching high and low for a local welder who can do this with no luck. I have tried welding shops, speed shops even manufacturing shops. Any suggestions what wording I could use to search this locally here in NJ with better success? I have the axle disassembled and will grind the joint on both side right before I get it done, just having a rough time finding someone with experience with this type of weld.
So no alignment bar needed if the differential is fully assembled ? Reason I ask is because I am about to weld 8.8 housing for drag /street application and wanted to minimize any chance of distorting the differential using to tubes.
I picked up a dana 30 hp makes me wonder if I should do this before I assemble it,I don't plan to wheel it hard but the plugs welds are pretty crappy for sure.
So how am I going to not put a load on it while it’s under the Jeep? I don’t see how I can support the body to unload the axle. What about supporting the center section as well while it cools?
Not all mig welders are created equal, so my best advice would be to look at the chart provided by the welding machine and see what is the maximum steel thickness it can weld. From my experience most 110V welders can only weld up to 3/16" thick steel. You want to use something that can weld at a minimum 1/4" thick steel.
I welded my 14 bolt and my 60 ...my only prep was clean with soap and water then sand . I did not do any pre and post heat and I only used basic er70-s6 .030 mig wire with typical c25 shielding gas. No cracks in 4 years . It is also not recommended to weld the axle tubes unless you are fully trussing the axle .
Do you know how I can lock a Chevrolet open differential and retain serviceability to the axles? I think I understand that welding would make it impossible to remove the axles
Will the everlast 200 run the same welds with 120ac? I understand 220 is preferred, I just don’t have that yet. And what would be the best setup amp wise. Thank you.
I’m looking at doing a cut and turn on a Dana 44 from a Scout to increase the caster from 0 degrees to about +6 degrees. I will be doing the preheat, but I was wondering if the weld could be done with a MIG or would you recommend a stick? I’ve also seen people post that it should be cooled in sand, though I think I like the idea of wrapping it in a blanket better. That would take a ton of sand.
Just to be on the same page, you are cutting/ rotating the Cs then rewelding them? If that's the plan then the welding process becomes a bit easier. The Cs are cast steel. Preheat, weld with regular mig wire or stick with 7018 then wrap it in a blanket and you're golden. You could post heat but it's really not necessary.
Tengo una ram 2003 Cummins se partio el housing del diferencial serca de el drive shaft el antiguo dueño lo reparo con soldadura fria que tanto soporta o devo soldarlo como en tu video. Gracias
Es dependiendo en cuanto confías en la persona que soldo el diferencial, si no es buen soldador podría fallar a cualquier hora. Yo lo hubiera reparado correctamente una vez y por la última vez.
When welding perches to the tube i would just go ahead and weld. If it was super cold I would apply some preheat but just to remove some of the moisture out of the metal.
Great video, I bought a spool of that nickel MIG wire and will try it out. What do you think about peening the weld before wrapping it up? Good or bad idea?
Its not a bad idea, the only reason I dont do it is because it can leave a stress point in the weld if you peen it too hard. I peened the very first axle I did and i felt like I was losing too much heat.
Hey there! I have to weld on a new coil mounting bracket to my axle to replace the old one that rusted away. I’m familiar with welding, but first time welding on an axle. Any tips?
Evan thank you for watching, for the new spring perches I would give the normal tips for welding. Make sure the material is clean and you have the welder set according to the thickness you'll be welding.
Im getting ready to do this myself, but im tig welding. Same preheat temp? Around same amperage? 3/32 filler rod? What filler rod for the cast to mild steel? Would a 309 stainless filler rod work? any helps appreciated. Thanks
And Josh Bruce let me say thanks for watching the video. Now if I was going to tackle the exact same project but only using tig, this is how I would do it. The pre heat would stay the same about no less than 350ﾟF. My starting average would be around 70 amps, this should get you started. As soon as you start welding you'll be able to tell if it's too hot or too cold. And as for the filler rod I would go with something like the nickel 55 rod, a good place to Start looking would be Amazon I know they have blue demon welding products and I've had pretty good luck with them plus you can't beat the 2 day shipping to your house.
I have this flux 125 Titanium and have been practicing and getting good at my beads. Would that be good enough to use for axle work, etc? Like what you did here or for some truss and Cs?
I have a 2013 mustang gt with both rear tires worn more from outer half than inner half. The wear from outside to inner is gradual. Is this sign of bent axle housing?
Robert that is a great question. Now the very first rear axle that I welded the tubes was my rear axle. I didn't remove the rear seals and nothing was damaged. And to be honest it was about a year and a half later that I did the same task on another rear axle so I figured I'd follow the same procedure. Long story short I haven't damaged any seals or internals by leaving them in while the welding was done. And the real test was leaving the stock rear Rubicon locker in while I welded the tubes, and they are still good to go.
If you dont get crazy with the preheat, keep it at 350°, you should be ok. We haven't had issues on any axles so far and the axle in the video has had about 25,000 miles on it that I know.
Andrew thanks for watching! Using mig is very similar check out how we used mig to weld the truss to the casting. ua-cam.com/video/UYwhXUuYIZ0/v-deo.html
Are you using a jig? I have a 2012 mustang 8.8 rear end, wanting to weld the tubes slightly on it for drag racing. Does the rear end have to be removed? I've read that the tubes can distort if not welded properly aka on a jig with the diff gutted
I’m sure you figured it out by now but as a welder myself I’d quarter it to avoid pulling or warping.. weld one quarter then go to the opposite and weld that quarter, and then finish the last 2 quarters, wouldn’t run the fuck out of it, allow to cool and that’ll avoid pulling too, but yea I’d at least set it on something level and sturdy
Thanks for watching, you can definitely use a tig welding process to get this job done. Just make sure you keep an eye on the termination of the weld. We need to make sure we don't leave any "fish eyes" or craters as these can start a potential crack.
Ok I was always told to get good welds on cast metals is to use a Tig but no videos show anyone using one???? I’m about to attack a set of one tons 14 bolt and Dana 60 for my jk build and I’ll try on it but would like to find a video of some one doing too? Thx later Dan in phx az
@jasond7r it doesn't have to be done with an arc welder, you can also use a mig welder (wire fed) to accomplish this task. Take a look at at this video where a use a specific wire to weld the cast. ua-cam.com/video/UYwhXUuYIZ0/v-deo.html
@Bob Hunt I personally wouldn't use 7018 to accomplish this task. However I have seen people use it in a pinch/trail fix. I would stick to an electrode/wire designed to weld nodular iron to mild steel.
Not a jeep dude but who doesn’t love off-road! I am about to weld up a 4-link in my sons D21. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and detailed pro tips from actual experience. Priceless baby. Appreciate you
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for great information! I did exactly as instructed here and Im very pleased with the results. My 8.8 is now "offroad-proofed"
I'm glad it could help you, thanks for watching!!
Thanks! I was looking for the info on pre-heating and the tip on covering for slow cool was helpful also. I'm planning on tig welding but I bought some high nickle sticks just in case.
ARRGGGGH! Just finished a 1 ton Dana for a Rubi. I welded the tube to the pinion on the front because we used the Barnes truss on top and the instructions called for cutting off 2 inches of the cast steel on the short end. Doing that, I did weld the tube to the pinion all the way around. Three passes of 7018. I looked at the other side and thought, "Wonder if I should do this side as well?" Didn't, but the front axles are still in the garage....... I didn't use 55 because I only had one rod left. Me and the customer are gonna have a talk this morning. Customer is my grandson..
great video man, i learned hella and i dont even own a jeep haha great information tho
I'm glad you learned from it, thank you for watching
Great video. Neglected step"A"- powerwash the part as soon as you remove it.
Power washing would definitely help out in the cleaning/preparation!
sure, but then you had better blow all that moisture out of the crack. or give it a few days to dry off.
Great video. My dad almost roasted my arm off with a week torch when we first lit it up. That thing is a bad mama-jama
Nathan thank you for watching!!
awesome vid homie i want my axle done. great info
Thank you for watching!!
Out standing video. Would have saved me hours of I found it 1st great job!!!
Thank you for watching!
Toes of the weld look good and doesn’t seem to have porosity So function over form. Whipping the rod a bit might have you get the stacked look everyone likes. Great video!
Great video!
Thank you for watching
Good work, man!
Thank you for watching!!
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
I wish you were closer I would have you weld mine!
Where is he?
@@jamesb1856 🤷♂️
like your energy, like your attitude. fix your audio :) subscribed
So good and professional
I enjoyed your video. Looks great but I am in the camp of cold welding for best warp control. I only mig with stainless wire on cast iron. 3 stringer runs if best. Penetration is same hot or cold. I do rear diffs at home shop alone and never had a problem cold, heating is fine but just wanted to comment so others know more then one way to do it. Strange and Moser have turntable machines for perfect uniform welds. Thanks for sharing.
The fuck is cold welding?
@@MattC770 Not pre heating the housing before welding like he did with the torch.Just weld it up !
any videos on shortening a Ford 8.8? I see other videos out there but you cover more important things than others 👍
Thank you for watching unfortunately I don't have one on shortening an 8.8.
Good stuff my man, thanks for the idea
Great info, thanks man!!!
Thanks for watching! Dont forget to share the video, you never know it might help others too!
Hi Edgar, great instructions! I'm an amateur welder (never have used stick) so this isn't something I'm comfortable tackling myself (I know my limits LOL). I have been searching high and low for a local welder who can do this with no luck. I have tried welding shops, speed shops even manufacturing shops. Any suggestions what wording I could use to search this locally here in NJ with better success? I have the axle disassembled and will grind the joint on both side right before I get it done, just having a rough time finding someone with experience with this type of weld.
So no alignment bar needed if the differential is fully assembled ? Reason I ask is because I am about to weld 8.8 housing for drag /street application and wanted to minimize any chance of distorting the differential using to tubes.
The way I welded the tubes was the best way to minimize warping.
cool this is nice, like the weave, good job!
Thanks man!
Thank you for watching!! Dont forget to give it a share if you have buds that may want to tackle this task!
Is that a gas hot water heater looks like a vent on top
Its electric
I picked up a dana 30 hp makes me wonder if I should do this before I assemble it,I don't plan to wheel it hard but the plugs welds are pretty crappy for sure.
That's one of the weak points for sure!
Cool!!
Great video, Not sure we're your located but I wish you were by me because I need the same procedure done on my axle for my mustang ,
Great video man. I really need to get a good welder
Are you looking at a Mig welder, stick welder or a combination welder?
@@cisnerofam08 just mig. I have only done a little welding. I want to be able to afford a welder of my own to start learning more fabrication skills
propane is perfect for the job. i would just put it under an axle tube and leave it there. constant heat is important for welding dissimilar metals
So how am I going to not put a load on it while it’s under the Jeep?
I don’t see how I can support the body to unload the axle.
What about supporting the center section as well while it cools?
Can this be done with a 110v mig welder?
Not all mig welders are created equal, so my best advice would be to look at the chart provided by the welding machine and see what is the maximum steel thickness it can weld. From my experience most 110V welders can only weld up to 3/16" thick steel. You want to use something that can weld at a minimum 1/4" thick steel.
Just a tip . Cooling down the axil quickly maintains its hardness . Letting it cool down slowly is tempering the metal making it softer.
The diff housing (center section) is cast iron, thats why you want to preheat then cool it slowly.
tacks are done like lug nuts, got it.
I welded my 14 bolt and my 60 ...my only prep was clean with soap and water then sand . I did not do any pre and post heat and I only used basic er70-s6 .030 mig wire with typical c25 shielding gas. No cracks in 4 years .
It is also not recommended to weld the axle tubes unless you are fully trussing the axle .
Do you know how I can lock a Chevrolet open differential and retain serviceability to the axles? I think I understand that welding would make it impossible to remove the axles
Will the everlast 200 run the same welds with 120ac? I understand 220 is preferred, I just don’t have that yet. And what would be the best setup amp wise.
Thank you.
I’m looking at doing a cut and turn on a Dana 44 from a Scout to increase the caster from 0 degrees to about +6 degrees. I will be doing the preheat, but I was wondering if the weld could be done with a MIG or would you recommend a stick? I’ve also seen people post that it should be cooled in sand, though I think I like the idea of wrapping it in a blanket better. That would take a ton of sand.
Just to be on the same page, you are cutting/ rotating the Cs then rewelding them? If that's the plan then the welding process becomes a bit easier. The Cs are cast steel. Preheat, weld with regular mig wire or stick with 7018 then wrap it in a blanket and you're golden. You could post heat but it's really not necessary.
@@cisnerofam08 Cool! Thanks! I guess while I'm at it, I should run a bead at the differentials like you did in this video.
You use 6010 rod?
Chi I do not recommend using a 6010 rod. It is very brittle in this application.
I'm getting ready to weld traction bar brackets on my 14 bolt k2500. I heard tubes will warp. Should i worry?
For a traction bar bracket I wouldn't worry too much just don't get carried away with a super hot setting on the welding machine.
Tengo una ram 2003 Cummins se partio el housing del diferencial serca de el drive shaft el antiguo dueño lo reparo con soldadura fria que tanto soporta o devo soldarlo como en tu video. Gracias
Es dependiendo en cuanto confías en la persona que soldo el diferencial, si no es buen soldador podría fallar a cualquier hora. Yo lo hubiera reparado correctamente una vez y por la última vez.
When I am welding new perches do I have to preheat the metal tube as well or is that strictly for the cast metal for the axle/differential.
When welding perches to the tube i would just go ahead and weld. If it was super cold I would apply some preheat but just to remove some of the moisture out of the metal.
@@cisnerofam08 thanks brother
You don't have to pull the carrier?
Is this also possible to do on the jeep dana 44 that has an aluminium housing?
Or similar technique and other rods?
If you wanted to do something like this for your scenario I would try tig brazing with silicone bronze at very low amperage.
@@cisnerofam08 how about just redoing the plugg welds (they are not pretty or good) if so what rods should i use?
and then adding a truss to the axle.
Use a truss. You must have a ZJ or WJ .
Great video, I bought a spool of that nickel MIG wire and will try it out. What do you think about peening the weld before wrapping it up? Good or bad idea?
Its not a bad idea, the only reason I dont do it is because it can leave a stress point in the weld if you peen it too hard. I peened the very first axle I did and i felt like I was losing too much heat.
Hey there! I have to weld on a new coil mounting bracket to my axle to replace the old one that rusted away. I’m familiar with welding, but first time welding on an axle. Any tips?
Evan thank you for watching, for the new spring perches I would give the normal tips for welding. Make sure the material is clean and you have the welder set according to the thickness you'll be welding.
Great Vid!! Keep it up!!
Did this to my mustang for not worrying as much about breaking them when launching at a drag strip 😂
can this be accomplished with a 180 amp mig welder? i dont have a tig or stick :(
yeah
do you have a video on how to twist the tubes back?
Unfortunately I dont have a video on that process
Is it necessary to preheat, since the Dana 44 is cast steel? I’ve heard 2 different opinions.
A dana 44 is not cast steel, its nodular Iron (cast iron). Its very similar to cast steel and that's why everyone asumes its just cast steel.
@@cisnerofam08 thanks Edgar. I’m doing this, this weekend.
Im getting ready to do this myself, but im tig welding. Same preheat temp? Around same amperage? 3/32 filler rod? What filler rod for the cast to mild steel? Would a 309 stainless filler rod work? any helps appreciated. Thanks
And Josh Bruce let me say thanks for watching the video. Now if I was going to tackle the exact same project but only using tig, this is how I would do it. The pre heat would stay the same about no less than 350ﾟF. My starting average would be around 70 amps, this should get you started. As soon as you start welding you'll be able to tell if it's too hot or too cold. And as for the filler rod I would go with something like the nickel 55 rod, a good place to Start looking would be Amazon I know they have blue demon welding products and I've had pretty good luck with them plus you can't beat the 2 day shipping to your house.
I have this flux 125 Titanium and have been practicing and getting good at my beads. Would that be good enough to use for axle work, etc? Like what you did here or for some truss and Cs?
I have a 2013 mustang gt with both rear tires worn more from outer half than inner half. The wear from outside to inner is gradual. Is this sign of bent axle housing?
To me it sounds like it's out of alignment. I would take it in to get aligned and see what they can do.
@@cisnerofam08 2013 mustangs has live rear axle nothing to adjust.
After welding, do you replace anything inside the diff due to it getting so hot? Seals?
Robert that is a great question. Now the very first rear axle that I welded the tubes was my rear axle. I didn't remove the rear seals and nothing was damaged. And to be honest it was about a year and a half later that I did the same task on another rear axle so I figured I'd follow the same procedure. Long story short I haven't damaged any seals or internals by leaving them in while the welding was done. And the real test was leaving the stock rear Rubicon locker in while I welded the tubes, and they are still good to go.
Thanks man you’re awesome
@@BerryMcCaulkiner300 anytime!
hey Edgar, Do I have to worry about the axle seals in the dana 44 jk when I do this weld? Thanks man, I'm a noob so I don't know :)
If you dont get crazy with the preheat, keep it at 350°, you should be ok. We haven't had issues on any axles so far and the axle in the video has had about 25,000 miles on it that I know.
Are you using AC polarity?
This was using DC
Is the process the same when using a MIG welder?
Andrew thanks for watching! Using mig is very similar check out how we used mig to weld the truss to the casting. ua-cam.com/video/UYwhXUuYIZ0/v-deo.html
Can I do this welding with a Miller 135 mig welder?
How do you get an axle tube in to a diff?
Are you using a jig? I have a 2012 mustang 8.8 rear end, wanting to weld the tubes slightly on it for drag racing. Does the rear end have to be removed? I've read that the tubes can distort if not welded properly aka on a jig with the diff gutted
I’m sure you figured it out by now but as a welder myself I’d quarter it to avoid pulling or warping.. weld one quarter then go to the opposite and weld that quarter, and then finish the last 2 quarters, wouldn’t run the fuck out of it, allow to cool and that’ll avoid pulling too, but yea I’d at least set it on something level and sturdy
Ok can u use a Tig welder ?
Thanks for watching, you can definitely use a tig welding process to get this job done. Just make sure you keep an eye on the termination of the weld. We need to make sure we don't leave any "fish eyes" or craters as these can start a potential crack.
Ok I was always told to get good welds on cast metals is to use a Tig but no videos show anyone using one???? I’m about to attack a set of one tons 14 bolt and Dana 60 for my jk build and I’ll try on it but would like to find a video of some one doing too? Thx later Dan in phx az
Does this have to be done with an arc welder or can a wire feed be used ?
@jasond7r it doesn't have to be done with an arc welder, you can also use a mig welder (wire fed) to accomplish this task. Take a look at at this video where a use a specific wire to weld the cast. ua-cam.com/video/UYwhXUuYIZ0/v-deo.html
Great video, would 7018 rod work on this ?
@Bob Hunt I personally wouldn't use 7018 to accomplish this task. However I have seen people use it in a pinch/trail fix. I would stick to an electrode/wire designed to weld nodular iron to mild steel.
OK, thanks for that, I'll take your advice.@@cisnerofam08
Good stuff, Edgar. What wire would you recommend for a MIG welder? That's what I'll be using for welding my Super Duty axles. Thanks!
To me the wire I used in this video would be ideal. ua-cam.com/video/UYwhXUuYIZ0/v-deo.html
No under cut. A+++++++
Sir
I have a problem in the axle
Can I contact you in your email address??