I did a timing belt on my 1,4 on my seat, slightly older engine (BBY) with a little different setup but very similar. I always mark the belt, sprockets and the engine block for reference, then I transfer the marks from the old belt to the new and just put it in the same way I took it out. No way to mess it up if you line up the marks and count the tooth in between. And of course like any belt job it's a good idea to spin the engine by hand a couple rotations to make sure the marks line up again.
One question if someone can reply me… I did it exactly how you say but at the time to spin de engine bu hand the marks never line up again, what could happened??
100% mate, patience in workshops is often not afforded to Techs based on costs, book times and customer expectations. To successfully do these jobs solo I believe the right tools need to be supplied or there is a high risk of mistiming which can lead to poor performance, running rough, poor fuel economy etc... Sometimes expectations do not match reality and as techs we should encourage the use of correct tooling (which I know you absolutely do) especially for the individuals that are attempting this type of work without having a good amount of experience doing timing belts. Risk vs Reward : |
If there is ACT or double variators (this one video does only have one varitator - adjustable valve timing) you need dealer specific computerized advanced timing tools.
Is that a 1.4? I thought they had inlet and exhaust cam phasers. This looks more like the 1.2 (CJZ[A-D] engine codes). So that little red plastic tool that fits between the cams and has pointers to show the cams are correctly aligned. Part "C" in your kit. The question is, why do the cams get out of sync during vehicle operation? Is it because there is no woodruff key on the cams and things can shift over time? Is it the inlet cam phaser still turned? I've heard people do all the marks they want, but the cams are still out of sync. There's a super expensive VAS611007 electronic tool that is used to get the timing in spec, but I'm confused as to whether that is needed for an engine like this (CJZA-CJZD) which has only an inlet cam phaser. DIYing on cars is dying. Getting a bit complicated with expensive tool requirements, all for very little gain. Or... I'm just getting old ... "they don't make them like they used to" 😁
Spot on advice Gerard! Always markup before removing the original belt even with the timing locked in position! ❤
I did a timing belt on my 1,4 on my seat, slightly older engine (BBY) with a little different setup but very similar. I always mark the belt, sprockets and the engine block for reference, then I transfer the marks from the old belt to the new and just put it in the same way I took it out. No way to mess it up if you line up the marks and count the tooth in between. And of course like any belt job it's a good idea to spin the engine by hand a couple rotations to make sure the marks line up again.
One question if someone can reply me… I did it exactly how you say but at the time to spin de engine bu hand the marks never line up again, what could happened??
@@cjbm2764 Nothing they will never do again probably just watch the marks you did on block snd sprockets not the belt ones
VW say you need to change the cam bolts which adds another layer of complexity to the job as the gears are simply floating, what is your take on that?
Brilliant video, thanks!!! I will be doing same job on 2013 Golf 1.4 tsi. EA211 engine. Your tips are 10 times better than any Haynes manual!!!
Cheers Alan, I really appreciate the feedback 🙏🙌👌
This will be very useful hv one exactly like that that hv to do today l will be the hero of day❤
Thanks for the great video!
Thank you :)
I’ve paid two mechanics to do mine recently the second was a v w dealer and I’m still getting the yellow exhaust alarm on my golf !
I just paint mark them, then i know the cams spring but i put them back to marks while someone holds them and i put the belt back on. Always fine
Nice one 🙌👌👍💪 Having a second person to help is a key there.
Good job 🙌
I've only done the timing chain on the 1.4 Golf. Same deal with the special tools, paint marker and plenty of patience
100% mate, patience in workshops is often not afforded to Techs based on costs, book times and customer expectations.
To successfully do these jobs solo I believe the right tools need to be supplied or there is a high risk of mistiming which can lead to poor performance, running rough, poor fuel economy etc...
Sometimes expectations do not match reality and as techs we should encourage the use of correct tooling (which I know you absolutely do) especially for the individuals that are attempting this type of work without having a good amount of experience doing timing belts.
Risk vs Reward : |
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage Totally agree. You can't expect quality workmanship from staff if the correct equipment is not provided.
Great video Gerard, very informative, Thank You🙏🙏👍🙂
Thanks Pat 🇮🇪🇮🇪🍀🍀🙏🙏🙌🙌
Thanks for the video, I wanted to know if the 1.5 tsi displacement has an external belt and if the latest 1.5 tsi evo has an oil bath belt. Thank you
Good video.
I had an 2018 1.5 tsi should i need some special tool for replacement
If there is ACT or double variators (this one video does only have one varitator - adjustable valve timing) you need dealer specific computerized advanced timing tools.
I dont use any locking tools on these, paint marks only always been good
Fair play, What do you use to adjust the cams or lock them in place?
Loads of marking thought i was the only one , is there a keyway in the crankshaft pulley just wondering
YES! I think crankshaft pulley has a keyway!!! Much better design than stupid Ford!!!
Great video thanks 👍
Thank for taking the time to comment :)
If you think this is complicated, have a look at the TSI with ACT procedure 😂😂. I see laser have an alternative to the vag tool out now... £1000!!!
Is that a 1.4? I thought they had inlet and exhaust cam phasers. This looks more like the 1.2 (CJZ[A-D] engine codes).
So that little red plastic tool that fits between the cams and has pointers to show the cams are correctly aligned. Part "C" in your kit. The question is, why do the cams get out of sync during vehicle operation? Is it because there is no woodruff key on the cams and things can shift over time? Is it the inlet cam phaser still turned? I've heard people do all the marks they want, but the cams are still out of sync. There's a super expensive VAS611007 electronic tool that is used to get the timing in spec, but I'm confused as to whether that is needed for an engine like this (CJZA-CJZD) which has only an inlet cam phaser.
DIYing on cars is dying. Getting a bit complicated with expensive tool requirements, all for very little gain.
Or... I'm just getting old ... "they don't make them like they used to" 😁