Emmert 6A Toolmakers Vise Restoration: Making the Missing Swivel Jaws
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- Опубліковано 7 кві 2022
- Emmert 6A Toolmakers Vise Restoration: Making the Missing Swivel Jaws
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You might consider making some rings that fit over the round bosses to protect the bosses from getting marred if you want to use the round "jaws."
Kieth could even make a set of soft jaws and rings for the pins as well.
I agree, in the 2:44 image of the vise you can see one of the round bosses heavily deformed, I assume it is from clamping. A set of hard and soft rings make sense.
I continue to really appreciate your offerings, Mr Keith. You not only model excellent craftsmanship but also respect for your audience with your wonderful editing and commentary. I like the homage you pay to the technology of 150 years ago and share the evolutionary process over hundreds of generations.
Thank you so much...jm
i wish i could have met you in person Keith, i live about 15-20 minutes away from WHF, i do enjoy your videos.
Ginger the Shop cat is indifferent... but I liked the subject and video: it's always great to see a restoration or "return to function" on these old machines and tools!
Ginger is doing cat scans and has to be indifferent, or unbiased.😀
@@Farm_fab Later on, the dog will pop in, and do a lab test. 😁
I do like that vise. Be handy as pocket in a shirt in any shop
Hey Keith Rucker! Theoretically you could make 2 more rotating jaws with 3 unique sides of different spaced pins or curves or??? Thanks for all the entertaining vids! Ride ride ride!
You amaze me with your ability to easily operate each of your machines as if you do it all day long in a factory setting
that radial drill is a thing of beauty.
Keith another fine video. Nice to see an old tool brought back to fully functional use.
A+++
Love the old machines
NICE work on those castings! You and Clarke have done some wonderful stuff together.
Always thrilled to see my iron machined👍
Your "iron" is always very machinable. Excellent job, Sir!
A friend of mine has the same vice and he fab'd several different shaped "shoes/jaws' like yours. He is a bike builder and tubing fabricator so he made his own tooling. Good job Windy Hill and of course Professor Rucker!
Man, that has turned into quite a handy and versatile little vise. Vey nice!
...and shortly after completion a job crops up needing specialist vice jaws, keith is wihing he had made jaws three sided, sloted one face and left the rest plaiin ready to machine for those special jobs! you just know it is going to happen lol, thanks again for the great content.
That vise is possibly the holy grail of vises. I saw one for sale on Ebay for $3000. Sounds a bit overly salty but it might sell
It was good to see you operating the machine not just watching the cutter work ! Thanks
Great work, as always, Keith!
Good job Keith! Take care, God bless!🙏🎚🇲🇾🇲🇾🇲🇾
You have the pattern made send it back to clark and re cast another set and cut smaller v ways so you can handle large and smaller diameter parts
Thanks for going through the work it takes to post your videos. Always interesting and educational.
Thank you for sharing. Very nice Keith. Enjoyed.👍👀
The pins and or jaws will also let you clamp something *open*.
That same ring can be clamped by spreading the pins on the ID. Or imagine you've got a large piece of thick walled square/rectangle tubing...
Such a fun vise.
Always a pleasure to see the Carlton radial drill put to work!
great Keith
Thanks for sharing!
Nice job they turned out great I can see that they will be very useful Thanks Keith
Nice project!
Nicely done, thanks for showing us.
Awesome. Nice project. Fun to do, fun to watch.
Another great video... Thanks
I really enjoy watching you machine your own castings. Looking forward to more such projects.
GREAT SERIES !!
That's gonna be very handy little vice Thanks for the video
Always enjoy seeing the restoration processes you go through. I was a bit surprised to see so much rust on your machines. Thanks for sharing.
those are an awesome addition to the vise.
Thanks for the video.
As always Keith, very enjoyable!
GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO, PET THE CAT AND DOGS, SEE YOU ALL NEXT TIME..
Yes sir,keep it as original as possible and thank you for makinging and sharing this video with us🤗😎🤗😎
Keith I am so happy I found your channel, I have enjoyed so many videos and you have such a great way of demonstrating things. ...thanks
I was into boat building videos which was great because the recomendations kept up throwing up more boat building, fibreglass, steel ducks, wooden ones, ect. then one day Keith helped out Leo on Tally ho and boom I had no idea machining could be learned. watched a slew of his videos and youtube did it again. ToT, Abom, Mr Crispin, Accidental Science, Robrenz. Then I decided to refresh all my electronics knowledge from where I left it years ago. BOOM Ben eater and the 8 bit computer wow. We badly need a maker space in my town, I'd well volunteer down there to get my hands on gear like this to make things and then help others.
Looks like you're really having fun in the shop Keith; moving some metal, adding serious value kind of therapeutic activity. Ginger sees the door open and slinks into the shot while protecting her turf. Nice video all around.
Great Episode Keith!! .. Very interesting the details of casting and stress relief, I've done some lost wax casting in the past.
Keith, nice job as always. One suggestion; why sissy on the drilling? Start with a small bit to remove the center and continue with the final size you need. Looking at your wonderful radial drill; it doesn't complain when you do it like that. Industry style; get the job done right and in time. Another suggestion; add a groove for a springsteel "o-ring", or even a common o-ring, so the parts stay on when you rotate the jaws. Just suggestions, no nagging, like your channel, Best, Job
Great video Keith ,keep'um coming..
After making tons of v-grooved jaws in my machining and fab years in my shop I have always made the steel jaws and just used soft materials matching the machined or cutting materials as inserts on the steel jaws I would make. I had a Heavy use of round stock, squares on the ends and angle stock for all my custom jaws and could not have survived without them. Glad to see you making them as well, Keith...
I was so excited to view you operate the Carlton Radial Arm Drill, I have never be able to view the operation of that Drill. I thank you for your video..... :)
Fine job 👌👌
Greetings from Dresden and Happy Easter!
Good morning Keith thanks for another good video I really love learning from your Channel
Good morning from the UK
Those look great Keith. They look way better than the one you showed in the picture. Great job. 👍
Keith, VERY interesting vice! As a model maker, I plan to make a similar set of these jaws out of aluminum to be used on a vice that I ca drill and tap holes for a shoulder bolt with the head ut off and a slot for a flat screw driver to install them (I MAY see about getting a Machine cap screw with shoulder and step drill the vice jaws to fit that way, one or another I can use a set similar but smaller for the same reason and plan to modify a vice I currently have for such a task on a smaller scale ("size" of the jaws) for my own uses!
Keith you have some of the great toys, er…..tools to play, er……work with! What a collection you have assembled, I’m sure that almost everyone watching is envious. I like that you are using traditional methods and materials to resurrect , iffn it was good enough for the original build, should be good for the next hundred or so years. I lust for your biggie Wilton Bullet, we had I believe the 4” ones in metal shop in high school, and if teenagers couldn’t break them, a responsible adult would get a few lifetimes of great service.
Sometimes on vises, only one jaw is V grooved. Hard to tell, but the photo looks like only only had a groove. Nice work either way.
If one day the v groove is too big for the smaller cylinder type bar he wants to clamp, well.. I can see a set coming hehe.
I agree with Pete S. I feel like the groove feature is now too dominant and smaller one on one side only may have been a viable option.
From a work holding standpoint a V on one side only is superior as it gives a 3 point hold vs the 4 point hold you get with opposing Vs. Similar to how a 3 legged stool is steadier than a 4 legged stool. Also in his example of holding the ring between the pin and one jaw you could see him struggle to prevent one edge of the ring falling into the groove which would not be an issue if one jaw didn’t have it.
Like the vise
Great video
A small ball detent and a groove in the jaws could be a nice addition to keep the jaws from falling of the bosses when not in use.
Cool 😎
Great to grip tapered shafts too.
Great Job I have never seen a vice like that one
The Carlton radial drill is certainly one of the finest tools in your shop. That machine is sweet!
That radial arm drill is the the design I have ever seen.👍
If the "v's" are a little deep, that just makes room for some custom copper shims for holding more delicate work.
A single round "jaw" with a similar groove might be handy for bending round stock or tubing to a specific radius without kinking it ... if you don't have a tubing bender that is stout enough for what you are working on. (For What It's Worth.)
That is certainly a versatile vise. It must have been quite expensive when it was new.
It's quite expensive now!
Hiya Keith
Fine job Keith! Your meticulous work process is very instructive. Do you have a video illustrating drill bit sharpening? Best wishes.
Large valve-making companies who have their own foundry still use the 'seasoning' method on their cast-iron pieces--most commonly large disks to form the gates out of. When I was a child I used to walk around the yard and be astounded why they would let all these pieces of metal sit outdoors and go rusty. My father must have explained it to me a dozen times but it never sank in for some reason!
Great job as usual. Could or will you stamp on One of the sides of each of the jaws what they go to go to, I would, plus I would have a home for them by where the Vice is mounted for easy access and less apt to be misplaced. From the looks of your shop you seem to have everything well organized.
Accessory number two would be a couple of copper or brass sleeves to protect the pins if you are not using the jaws.
Clark at Windy Hill does some very nice casting work! If it wasn't for the brutal shipping fees, I'd ask him to do some work for my projects here in Norway! 👍😎
That drill press has little to none runout.
I imagine those would be a great way to hold a tapered piece as well.
Just an FYI, beware of a light first cut on castings, you need to go deep enough (greater than 0.010" sometimes) to cut beyond the casting oxides on the surface. Or you will trash those expensive inserts.
I Live in WV and We dont have the rusting problem you guys further south do!!-Its sad to see the rust on machine tools , I have found Linseed oil will protect bare metal !
Another set of the jaws in aluminum would be convenient to have also.
Can also grip a rod that's tapered. And the flat piece that's like a wedge. Didn't mention that
Keith, with the pattern handy, another set could have replaceable steel or soft jaws too. I am surprised you ground off the gates on the jaw faces, especially since you machined that surface. Have you considered using a shop-vac on the mill(s)/drill press to vacuum up the cast iron cuttings while work is in process? Thanks for the video. Hope to see you at the Bar-Z. Jon
If you surface the backside of the jaws, you can rotate the jaw and maybe protect the pins. Maybe a set of matching soft jaws are next!
A O-ring on the inside of the jaws holes could help retain the jaws.
Now you need to make a set of aluminum soft jaw blocks.
If my shop was that big, I could sweep the floor.
If making jaws out of rectangular blocs of steel I would make them 2 sided with a much smaller V groove on the second side and also make a second mounting hole close to one end to hold short parts.
I guess if he uses them for a while and decides the grooves are too deep, and assuming there's enough travel, he could take a little off the face of the jaws and effectively make them a little shallower. Easier than putting metal back on... :)
Keith, Great job on those jaws, but I cant stop wondering why you didn't purchase 1.25 x 2.25 grey iron bar from McMaster and saw them up, instead of going through the hassle of casting?
Kieth, found that very interesting, just wonder if this type of vice is still made 👍👴🏻
Sadly its not and the vintage ones are quite expensive
"Cutting like butter"
Now you need to make a set with soft jaws.
I believe that I would also make a set of brass or aluminum jaws.
I think I would have done three pairs of castings for plain jaws, deep V-groves as Keith made and shallower V-grooves for more thin round stock.
Wow- .250 in one pass!
That's still a very light cut for a big machine like that.
I ran a big radil arm drill and drill a 1inch hole in stainless steel with no polit hole.
🙂 Check out CEE Australia and Kurtis's new shaper making cuts.... he won Chip of the Week with it.
@@MrPossumeyes have you seen Jason's (Fireball Tool) cuts on the huge mill? Like 6" or something like that DOC
@@MF175mp No - better go for a squiz! Cheers for that. 👍
23:46 Cat!
Why cast iron jaws? I’d tater use a medium carbon steel for jaws and harden them to about 56-58. If you want swift jaws, they can be made too. But CI isn’t generally the best material for jaws.
you could put a magnet across to keep them on vise so you do not have to look for them.
those could pins also open the door for so many other custom Jaws if needed
I was thinking someone could make a set of jaws and actually use some thick walled pipe bored out to fit over those bosses to make an extended jaw, I don't think it would be effective much over say 6 inches or so but that would give you something more than 9 inches deep. You wouldn't have a whole lot of clamping force but it would suffice for some projects. Anyway just a thought
V groove: “see what it sounds like.” First half of an old Victor Borge joke that ends: “ or we could hear what it looks like.” I wonder if the manufacturer ever considered some type of groove and retaining pin to keep the jaws from falling off when they are not on top. Thanks for the video.
8:41 - the passage between the riser and the part seemed thin and therefore subject to early cooling; perhaps a more generous passage would allow more transfer of liquid back into the part.
10:11 - No power feed?
Any odd-shaped work piece (or work method) that causes more load at the ends of each jaw than at the centre will cause tensile stress in the jaws at their weakest points (i.e. the centres where the 1.25" diameter hole and deep V-groove are). So these cast iron jaws will need to be treated reasonably gently to prevent cracking. Maybe the original jaws were cast steel, not cast iron.
Are you goiungto paint the new jaws to reduce rusting?
While these small projects have been interesting, and you have been spending time on the Diresta band saw refurbishment, ,( you may still want to contact you tuber Engles coach shop for advice on the type of tires that may be required with the wood fellows on those bandsaw wheels) have been wondering when you might get back to the stoker steam engine project. Now that you have a vertical milling machine, you might be able to finish the re-milling in your shop even if you need to fabricate your own bits for the slide re-milling
. Apart from that and the offset re-lathing of the crankshaft, (hopefully will not need more than a couple of thousandths to true it up.) you seem to be ready for rebuilding of the engine.
@@flat-earther considering that the use of a metal planer was attempted by You Tuber A bom, and there seemed to be a problem with the necessary planer stroke to the needed height and the only problem with using the vertical milling machine video was the flat cutter head was too large,. A smaller end mill in Keith’s Vert8cal mill would seem to be Ideal. Even if a very deep planer blade were fashioned, the chance of bending such a blade is very high and thereby damaging the casting much greater.