Hello. Great video! One question that I have is why you needed to put insulated fishplates at 6:36? If the track is isolated, where are you going to get your power from?
Hi Mark, apparently, the auto reverser solution is not compatible with Hornby HM700O, unless you have a loco with a stay alive. Can you advise regarding the turntable wiring for DCC without an auto reverser? Many thanks in advance.
Hi Mark, sorry for the late reply. I am not yet finished with my wiring, but have read on a thread somewhere, that this device is not compatible with HM7000 chips. I love your solution, but was planning to use the HM7000 TXS chips with the HM7000 software, but also be able to use DCC EX interchangeably.
Hi Mark . I have converted my dc turntable same as you with decoder and autoreverser, all works well...only problem ,one of the exits from the turntable I have split into 2 by way of a peco electro frog point and motor both go to buffers. I have isolated the frog ...where do i attach the frog feed wire ??? Thanks Ken
@@DonegalDadRail Hi thanks for the reply Mark. The point motor is a pl-10e with an accessory switch peco pl-13 this is in my gaugemaster prodigy set up. wired up to a switch on my control panel. I used a BLOCKsignalling REV 1 Autoreverser Ken
@@DonegalDadRail yes the frog is connected to the pl-13 then to a toggle switch to switch the point. But if the autorev switches polarity on the rails , it wont switch the polarity on the isolated frog , so will short....do i need to attach the frog also to the out on the reverser...sorry Mark i am not very good with electrics....thanks for your time
The point motor is a pl-10e should be connected to the switch for throwing the point. The peco pl-13 should have the frog on one terminal and feed from your buswire to the other two terminals. If you are still unsure if you pop into my lives on Thursday evenings I can show you.
I have a turntable i want to fit on my layout. With an auto reverser does it change the polarity of JUST the turn table? or the entire layout? I assume with DCC this wouldnt matter anyway right?
Hi Spinex, the turntable needs to be isolated from the rest of the layout by plastic fishplates or a cut in both rails. The autoreverser then looks after the power supply to the turntable and the exits not connected to the rest of the layout.
@@DonegalDadRail years ago. Perhaps can look it up on walthers home page. I remember wiring it years ago and was not easy. But I know a lot more today than i did then. I imagine you have to isolate the turntable motor then install the decoder. I'll try to find wiring schematics for turntable. Thanks, Chuck Garcia
Great explainer!. My brother and I have been struggling with a scratch build TT - it works but it is proving to be a 'psin'. So thinking of getting the Hornby and that reverse chip. What make is that reversing chip? Also, our TT represents a simple loco yard with a single entry and exit line - can I do away with the Hornby doing multiple stops as it revolves? cheers Steve
This is the reverser I used www.blocksignalling.co.uk/index.php/dcc-autoreverser-rev1 The Hornby TT is geared to stop at each exit, so you would have to changing the gearing.
Hi Mark. Just watched your video, which is great, by the way. I have an old Hornby "manually" operated turntable, operated by turn ing the water filler pipe. I do intend saving money by fitting a motor to it though, instead of splashing out on another one. And also wiring up the track as DCC (not sure as yet about the motor). What I can't work out though, is why I would actually need a Reverser in the first place? All my exits will be going to dead-end sidings, not leading back into the track layout. I hear what you are saying about the positive and negative appearing the other way round, when the turntable is turned through 180 degrees, but my old Hornby turntable stays as it is until the 4th or maybe 5th (cannot remember exactly which one) exit, but then due to the contacts layout under the base of the turntable, it automatically reverses the polarity anyway. Regards, Bob.
Hey, Mark! Great video. I have seen may people struggle with converting their turntables, but it looks like you did it really well.
Thank you Anthony
Watched your video and just chipped my turntable with the autoreverser and it works great thanks for the great vid.
Thank you Stephen
Excellent video, I will do it today
Thank you let me know how you get on.
Hello. Great video! One question that I have is why you needed to put insulated fishplates at 6:36? If the track is isolated, where are you going to get your power from?
The power comes through the autorevser. The insulating fishplates stops shorts when it is active.
@@DonegalDadRail OK, one more question that I have is do you need to wire each turnout section of the turntable?
@@JoshuaDD-nc3oz No but it give better reliability if you do.
Interesting stuff Mark👍
Thank you Charlie
Hi Mark,you made a daunting task look easy.Which chip did you use?I would love footage of you programming the chip
Thanks Kieran.I used an 8pin 4 function Hornby chip. Don't usually show programming as programming depends on what DCC system you use.
Hi Mark, apparently, the auto reverser solution is not compatible with Hornby HM700O, unless you have a loco with a stay alive. Can you advise regarding the turntable wiring for DCC without an auto reverser? Many thanks in advance.
Well that has me stumped!! Are you using a DCC system along with the Bluetooth or just a power supply?
Hi Mark, sorry for the late reply. I am not yet finished with my wiring, but have read on a thread somewhere, that this device is not compatible with HM7000 chips. I love your solution, but was planning to use the HM7000 TXS chips with the HM7000 software, but also be able to use DCC EX interchangeably.
What brand and type of chip (Decoder) did you use for the turntable ?
It was an old Hornby 4 function 8 pin decoder I had lying around.
Hi again Mark... all the rail turnouts from the turntable on my layout go to a shed or buffers...do i connect each to the bus wire....Thanks Ken
If you have it set the same as mine then yes. The autorevser sorts the electric polarity.
@@DonegalDadRail Thanks Mark
Hi
Can you advise me please ?? Do you add Feed /bus wires to the tracks that come off the turntable??
I did on mine because the autoreversor changes the current to stop shorts. The entry exit to the turntable should be isolated by plastic fishplates
Hi Mark... What chip did you use ...Thanks Ken
I think it was an old Hornby 8 pin 4 function. Any decoder should do the job.
Hi Mark . I have converted my dc turntable same as you with decoder and autoreverser, all works well...only problem ,one of the exits from the turntable I have split into 2 by way of a peco electro frog point and motor both go to buffers. I have isolated the frog ...where do i attach the frog feed wire ??? Thanks Ken
Are you using a switch on the motor to power the frog?
@@DonegalDadRail Hi thanks for the reply Mark. The point motor is a pl-10e with an accessory switch peco pl-13 this is in my gaugemaster prodigy set up. wired up to a switch on my control panel. I used a BLOCKsignalling REV 1 Autoreverser Ken
The frog wire should be connected to the pl-13 (are you using it to switch the frog polarity?)
@@DonegalDadRail yes the frog is connected to the pl-13 then to a toggle switch to switch the point. But if the autorev switches polarity on the rails , it wont switch the polarity on the isolated frog , so will short....do i need to attach the frog also to the out on the reverser...sorry Mark i am not very good with electrics....thanks for your time
The point motor is a pl-10e should be connected to the switch for throwing the point. The peco pl-13 should have the frog on one terminal and feed from your buswire to the other two terminals. If you are still unsure if you pop into my lives on Thursday evenings I can show you.
Hi Mark what auto reverser did you use please
This one from Block Signalling blocksignalling.co.uk/DCC-Products/REV1
Here's another video on it ua-cam.com/video/Hdd30rM8ahE/v-deo.html
Is there a particular dc chip you need and auto reverser , ps what did you use
I used a spare Hornby chip and the Autoreverser from blocksignaling.co.uk
I have a turntable i want to fit on my layout. With an auto reverser does it change the polarity of JUST the turn table? or the entire layout? I assume with DCC this wouldnt matter anyway right?
Hi Spinex, the turntable needs to be isolated from the rest of the layout by plastic fishplates or a cut in both rails. The autoreverser then looks after the power supply to the turntable and the exits not connected to the rest of the layout.
Great video. I have a walthers dc turntable can that be converted to dcc also. Would appreciate your input. Chuck Garcia
In theory you should be able to, do you have a wiring diagram for that turntable?
@@DonegalDadRail years ago. Perhaps can look it up on walthers home page. I remember wiring it years ago and was not easy. But I know a lot more today than i did then. I imagine you have to isolate the turntable motor then install the decoder. I'll try to find wiring schematics for turntable. Thanks, Chuck Garcia
Yes isolate the motor to run from the decoder and power the rails through an autoreverser.
@@DonegalDadRail thanks I'll try all that. Layout is in Virginia, I'm in Stamford, Connecticut and you're in Ireland. Great stuff. Thanks again
Great explainer!. My brother and I have been struggling with a scratch build TT - it works but it is proving to be a 'psin'. So thinking of getting the Hornby and that reverse chip. What make is that reversing chip? Also, our TT represents a simple loco yard with a single entry and exit line - can I do away with the Hornby doing multiple stops as it revolves? cheers Steve
This is the reverser I used www.blocksignalling.co.uk/index.php/dcc-autoreverser-rev1 The Hornby TT is geared to stop at each exit, so you would have to changing the gearing.
@@DonegalDadRail Cheers for that! Shame about the gearing though,
Hi Mark. Just watched your video, which is great, by the way. I have an old Hornby "manually" operated turntable, operated by turn ing the water filler pipe. I do intend saving money by fitting a motor to it though, instead of splashing out on another one. And also wiring up the track as DCC (not sure as yet about the motor). What I can't work out though, is why I would actually need a Reverser in the first place? All my exits will be going to dead-end sidings, not leading back into the track layout. I hear what you are saying about the positive and negative appearing the other way round, when the turntable is turned through 180 degrees, but my old Hornby turntable stays as it is until the 4th or maybe 5th (cannot remember exactly which one) exit, but then due to the contacts layout under the base of the turntable, it automatically reverses the polarity anyway. Regards, Bob.
Hi Robert if the turntable does it, then you wouldn't need one. Do a test first to make sure it works. Don't want to blow any chips