Excellent Bill - am just revising my dc layout and decided to motorise the points I can’t reach, and you’re so right, there aren’t many posts dedicated to dc points at all - but hey there is now! Clear, concise and totally understandable and most importantly Saved 😂 Many thanks 👍🏻
hallelujah!!!!! Finally someone that explains it properly for a newbie I’ve got 14 points and 3 Eze-wire switch boxes of 5 switches to wire up and wanted to know the easiest way to do this but all the tutorial show how to wire a point motor to a terminal block but not the whole story I’m using Peco Pl-11 surface motor The Green wire is the common. So I Connect this to one terminal of the power supply. The red and black wires then switch the point motor So in my case it would be the RED instead Of the black I would use as the bus wire I take it I only said to a member yesterday that there are loads of tutorials on how to wire a point motor but none of how to from the source, or how to more than one so thank you as this was explained easily
Thank you OOBill. I am a Ludditte and Want to use the Old Style Point Levers with simple surface mounted Point motors. I did all this as a Kid in the 1970, and it all worked out Fine. It Felt like I was the 'Old Fellow,' in Signal box, Cloth Cap, cup of Tea and Pork Pie, not to far away..! Physically pulling the Levers and Changing the Points..!! That was the joy..! I understand Technology has moved on at a Serious Pace..! I however have not, now in my Late 60's. I Dont want DCC taking (stealing) all that Tactile feel away..! After all, I can now sport a Cloth cap and not look rediculous today. Don't get me wrong DCC is wonderful, Bells, Whistles and the realistic sound is Great, no argument..! But its not what I am going for..! I want to Drive the Loco, not watch a Program, do it all for me..! Very Realistic it is for sure. But it's not what my Childhood recalls or Old age is trying to find..!! So Thank you So much, for your Memory Refresh. Because I too, found all the New Gizmo's shown multipule times by Many youngbloods. How Brilliant they are all set up, to happend without Effort apart of course a $50 for this CDU another $30 here another $40. Not to mention Chips 8 Pin, 12 pin, 18 pin or 21..! For every bloody Loco plus the Controler ect ect..! Give my Pension fund a Brake. I just want a Couple of Loco's, rolling stock a few LED lights and Powered points..! Bingo, so until I pull one too many Levers and, I drop off the Twigg..! Ending up in the G.W.R's waiting room. I will stick with simple and after all LED's are New Tech ain't they..? Cheers to all as long as Your 'OO' or '1/76' the rest of ya can Burn in Hell..!! 😂😂😂👿
Thank you Thank you Thank you Bill, I was starting to panic...All l could find was dcc info'. You've saved my Bacon ol son Thank you... I was also worried I wouldn't be able to use my Hornby switches and again there's yours...Great... Just one question what point motors are you using please? I was expecting to see baseboard mounted ones for some reason...Thanks again Paul
Yours is the only one I could find myself. Im on 4 of 10 points and looking for the best way forward. This has been a great helo to me. Thanks. Screen shots taken of the diagrams too.
I'd recommend watching this video too. ua-cam.com/video/3OQL_Z44_qw/v-deo.html Wiring using power distribution blocks. Makes adding new points or signals etc easier.
Really good vid and clear explanation. You are right in that there's not much information on this. A general Google search and questions on groups on social media proved fruitless. I actually found this on a direct search on UA-cam in the app rather than via a search engine. So thank you!
I love this its brought back my memory too just how my grandfather showed me and I had forgotten after years of not doing it, price of being a parent I suppose and going back to your childhood HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS VIDEO TO ANYONE THNKS OOBILL
Fantastic channel. Where abouts in the circuit you describe would a capacitor discharge unit be wired please, as I have seen that these improve the function of the point motor. All the best!!
I don't use one as I don't really need to switch more than one point at a time and they all work fine. But if you were to fit one it would interrupt the circuit between uncontrolled output and the points.
I've suddenly found a problem with two of my main lines. Despite power being off on one the inner won't work until I pull a lead out which is odd as I haven't changed anything with the wiring. Now I'm going over everything again. Thanks for your information. Not heard you yet as out in a noisy pub. Have saved your video. Thanks.
My problem is no more. As with my point motor. Have not tried yet but have a new black switch for it. If the others (yellow/green) ones do the same thing then I won't bother buying anymore.
Thanks very much this has been insanely helpful. I really like the look of your layout at the start too. Just wondering though what you made your platforms out of as I've got a similar-looking terminus in mind. Cheers
They are the Metcalfe card kit platforms. A bit of work involved in building them but you get a lot of platform in the kit and freedom to build whatever you want. I wish I'd got the red brick versions though....
This is such a great video and a brilliantly clear diagram. Please could you do a diagram to show how a CDU and toggle switches would be incorporated? I assume the red wire from uncontrolled DC would have to be spliced/go through terminal block so there’s one to each switch, rather than just the one for all passing contact switches..?
Basically a CDU would be installed in the circuit immediately from the uncontrolled output. In other words remove the red and black wires from the uncontrolled output in my diagram and connect them to the output of the CDU. Then connect the input of the CDU to the uncontrolled output of the controller. They don't really work with Hornby lever switches so I don't use one.
Thanks for the very clear explanation, just started to install point motors so, very useful. just a quick question, what do you put on the other end of the bus wire? I am guessing it's not a good idea to just leave it hanging ? Cheers
Good video, easy to follow. However, I have 6 KATO points that require wiring, is possible you could give me some pointers how I should go about doing this? Thanks, looking forward to your reply.. Brian
Bill. Just watched the slide presentation, and I've checked the previous comments. Informative video as always, but you are showing a DC supply? Should it not be 16v AC? Cheers.
Hi Bill, thanks for the video! Very helpful, just a question I plan to use the Hornby R965 controller for loco control and my 7 point motors for my shunting layout, do you think that the controller will be powerful enough or would I have to upgrade to something else?
Nicely explained, the only shame is that Hornby messed things up with the wire colours. All other manufactures use Green as the common wire from the power source and the Black & Red for the switch wires. People need to be aware of this if they use motors from different manufacturers.
I have just bought my first point motor. Its a Hornby and quite neat. On my old layout back in the eighties i had a bank of Hornby switches. Yellow and green for one signal and the rest worked the street lights. Don't think I've got the black switch. Does it have to be this one?
Hi Bill, I’m new to this game, so your video has help me a lot. However, I would like to incorporate point indicators, so how would I go about incorporating the wiring for LED lights? Thank you in advance….. Brian
I know this video is 2 yrs old but I've just found it and have been looking all over to get information on how to wire my layout. I've just bought the new TT 120 set and track packs and am making a layout on a 5X4 ft board. But trying to find a simple guide to wiring it up and how to wire points is like banging my head against a brick wall. Will this work for turnout motors? And what motors would you recommend for my layout? Many thanks for this video but one question, are the 4 passing switches connected with a Live wire between them as I don't see a live wire from the Controller output. Also you don't by any chance have a video on how to wire up the bus and dropper wires do you? Thanks very much.
I have no idea what motors are available for TT120 points I'm afraid. But yes this wiring will work it'll be the same principal. With the old Hornby lever switches they plug together so you don't need to have a wire linking them. But if you toggle type switches you will need to link them. If I remember rightly I show this in this video.
Good one . Quick question , what do you use to connect the subsidiary black wires to the bus . You mentioned terminal blocks , what type would these be and where do you get them ? Could you just solder the wire to the bus ?
I just cut and strip the wires then twist them together and solder them. Any sort of low amp terminal blocks will do for connecting wires but a Power Distribution Bus Power Terminal would be the ideal thing and what I intend to use soon to rewire everything. That way the block becomes the bus and keeps things very tidy.
@@oobill Cheers Bill . That last part could have been Gaelic ! I feel guilty as I’ve been into model railways for 50 odd years and I’m still asking these questions . As you can probably gather my electrics are essentially simple . I did have powered points in my eat;y layouts but haven’t bothered on my big loft layout , mainly because of all the wiring required . It would add something to operating though . Thanks for taking time to respond .
Hello Bill, you roughly know my layout- 2 main lines, four track station and at the other end the two main tracks plus two loops in each direction. If you remember I nearly had a fire possibly as a result of having two power sources activated. I am trying to resolve/avoid that problem moving ahead, so if I install two sets of points with a power source for tip line before a point and another power source on the other side of the second point just as you show at 2:54 would that work? Would I need to isolate any loops or wire in toggles? Sorry for the complicated question Thanks Charlie
Would need to see a plan of what you mean especially when it comes to whether or not you need or would benefit from toggles. Insulfrog points should isolate power from the turn out track when closed for straight ahead. For DC running you shouldn't really need to provide power either side of a point. The diagram in this video is for wiring point motors there are no power points shown on the track itself.
Doesn't the green wire always show in the middle of the point .motor? On your diagram you have the green wire in the middle on a couple of points, but on the end connection on the others - which is correct ?
Can you help me,I am running 5 points off my a bus wire and will add more on but does the bus wire have to be a large wire ,I am using peco surface points and I am using a gangemaster transfer type T 4, layout is on a broad which is 80cm wide and 2400 cm long and is a termus layout, I will have about 18 points on it when finished ,it is a d.c.c layout
Terrific explanation and just what I was looking for. Just one question - instead of using the uncontrolled dc output, can I use the uncontrolled ac output, as the motor and passing contact switch can use either, and is the wiring the same ?
You have no clue how much help this was. Your right there is nothing for dc layouts, and your explanation was so clear so thank you so much!
Excellent Bill - am just revising my dc layout and decided to motorise the points I can’t reach, and you’re so right, there aren’t many posts dedicated to dc points at all - but hey there is now! Clear, concise and totally understandable and most importantly Saved 😂 Many thanks 👍🏻
A commonly asked question and problem simply and well explained in non technical jargon
Great explanation, I've always wanted to try motorised points but there has never been any explanation to installing them
hallelujah!!!!!
Finally someone that explains it properly for a newbie
I’ve got 14 points and 3 Eze-wire switch boxes of 5 switches to wire up and wanted to know the easiest way to do this but all the tutorial show how to wire a point motor to a terminal block but not the whole story
I’m using Peco Pl-11 surface motor
The Green wire is the common. So I Connect this to one terminal of the power supply. The red and black wires then switch the point motor
So in my case it would be the RED instead Of the black I would use as the bus wire I take it
I only said to a member yesterday that there are loads of tutorials on how to wire a point motor but none of how to from the source, or how to more than one so thank you as this was explained easily
Thank you OOBill.
I am a Ludditte and Want to use the Old Style Point Levers with simple surface mounted Point motors.
I did all this as a Kid in the 1970, and it all worked out Fine.
It Felt like I was the 'Old Fellow,' in Signal box, Cloth Cap, cup of Tea and Pork Pie, not to far away..!
Physically pulling the Levers and Changing the Points..!! That was the joy..!
I understand Technology has moved on at a Serious Pace..!
I however have not, now in my Late 60's.
I Dont want DCC taking (stealing) all that Tactile feel away..!
After all, I can now sport a Cloth cap and not look rediculous today.
Don't get me wrong DCC is wonderful, Bells, Whistles and the realistic sound is Great, no argument..!
But its not what I am going for..!
I want to Drive the Loco, not watch a Program, do it all for me..! Very Realistic it is for sure.
But it's not what my Childhood recalls or Old age is trying to find..!!
So Thank you So much, for your Memory Refresh.
Because I too, found all the New Gizmo's shown multipule times by Many youngbloods.
How Brilliant they are all set up, to happend without Effort apart of course a $50 for this CDU another $30 here another $40.
Not to mention Chips 8 Pin, 12 pin, 18 pin or 21..! For every bloody Loco plus the Controler ect ect..!
Give my Pension fund a Brake. I just want a Couple of Loco's, rolling stock a few LED lights and Powered points..!
Bingo, so until I pull one too many Levers and, I drop off the Twigg..!
Ending up in the G.W.R's waiting room.
I will stick with simple and after all LED's are New Tech ain't they..?
Cheers to all as long as Your 'OO' or '1/76' the rest of ya can Burn in Hell..!!
😂😂😂👿
Keep on Chuggin'!!! :D
Thank you Thank you Thank you Bill, I was starting to panic...All l could find was dcc info'. You've saved my Bacon ol son Thank you... I was also worried I wouldn't be able to use my Hornby switches and again there's yours...Great... Just one question what point motors are you using please? I was expecting to see baseboard mounted ones for some reason...Thanks again Paul
Yours is the only one I could find myself. Im on 4 of 10 points and looking for the best way forward. This has been a great helo to me. Thanks. Screen shots taken of the diagrams too.
I'd recommend watching this video too. ua-cam.com/video/3OQL_Z44_qw/v-deo.html Wiring using power distribution blocks. Makes adding new points or signals etc easier.
Hi Bill. Thanks so much. Clear concise and easy to understand!!!
Really good vid and clear explanation. You are right in that there's not much information on this. A general Google search and questions on groups on social media proved fruitless. I actually found this on a direct search on UA-cam in the app rather than via a search engine. So thank you!
That is an excellent simple explanation.. Thank you so much for that👍
Your correct when you say that there isnt much info about. Thanks for the gen.
I love this its brought back my memory too just how my grandfather showed me and I had forgotten after years of not doing it, price of being a parent I suppose and going back to your childhood HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS VIDEO TO ANYONE THNKS OOBILL
Fantastic channel. Where abouts in the circuit you describe would a capacitor discharge unit be wired please, as I have seen that these improve the function of the point motor. All the best!!
I don't use one as I don't really need to switch more than one point at a time and they all work fine. But if you were to fit one it would interrupt the circuit between uncontrolled output and the points.
Your video is great, it really helped, so thankyou, I know this is two years old, but it is still helping people, so again thankyou.
I've suddenly found a problem with two of my main lines. Despite power being off on one the inner won't work until I pull a lead out which is odd as I haven't changed anything with the wiring. Now I'm going over everything again. Thanks for your information. Not heard you yet as out in a noisy pub. Have saved your video. Thanks.
My problem is no more.
As with my point motor. Have not tried yet but have a new black switch for it. If the others (yellow/green) ones do the same thing then I won't bother buying anymore.
Thanks very much this has been insanely helpful. I really like the look of your layout at the start too. Just wondering though what you made your platforms out of as I've got a similar-looking terminus in mind. Cheers
They are the Metcalfe card kit platforms. A bit of work involved in building them but you get a lot of platform in the kit and freedom to build whatever you want. I wish I'd got the red brick versions though....
@@oobill Thanks, I've tried using the Peco edging kits but to not a lot of success unfortunatley.
I am bran new to model railway the way you explained this was fantastic thank you
This is such a great video and a brilliantly clear diagram. Please could you do a diagram to show how a CDU and toggle switches would be incorporated?
I assume the red wire from uncontrolled DC would have to be spliced/go through terminal block so there’s one to each switch, rather than just the one for all passing contact switches..?
Basically a CDU would be installed in the circuit immediately from the uncontrolled output. In other words remove the red and black wires from the uncontrolled output in my diagram and connect them to the output of the CDU. Then connect the input of the CDU to the uncontrolled output of the controller. They don't really work with Hornby lever switches so I don't use one.
@@oobill thank you!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks. This seems to be about wiring motors. I was after wiring points sections
Very concise. Many thanks!
Well explained video. If I wanted to use toggle switches would I need a particular sort.
As long as the switches are on/off/on and automatically spring back to the centre "off" position any should be fine.
Clear, concise - good job. Now how about the same with AC?
Superb - this will be my reference when I get to this stage. Thanks
Well explained . I would imagine you could build your own bus bars from say a strip of copper for the main + - feeds to your 16v dc output ?
Thanks for the very clear explanation, just started to install point motors so, very useful. just a quick question, what do you put on the other end of the bus wire? I am guessing it's not a good idea to just leave it hanging ? Cheers
Thank you a very clear explanation.
Excellent, it will help me as newbie,thanks
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you 😊
Good video, easy to follow. However, I have 6 KATO points that require wiring, is possible you could give me some pointers how I should go about doing this? Thanks, looking forward to your reply.. Brian
Great video and be very helpful when i get to wiring stage thanks Bill
Bill. Just watched the slide presentation, and I've checked the previous comments. Informative video as always, but you are showing a DC supply? Should it not be 16v AC? Cheers.
Thanks. That's a simple explanation
Hi Bill, thanks for the video! Very helpful, just a question I plan to use the Hornby R965 controller for loco control and my 7 point motors for my shunting layout, do you think that the controller will be powerful enough or would I have to upgrade to something else?
Nicely explained, the only shame is that Hornby messed things up with the wire colours. All other manufactures use Green as the common wire from the power source and the Black & Red for the switch wires. People need to be aware of this if they use motors from different manufacturers.
I have just bought my first point motor. Its a Hornby and quite neat.
On my old layout back in the eighties i had a bank of Hornby switches. Yellow and green for one signal and the rest worked the street lights.
Don't think I've got the black switch.
Does it have to be this one?
very helpful . thanks
Hi Bill,
Your videos are great,just a question on the Hornby point switches,does the red or the green wire go in the bottem?
thanks Tim
It depends which way you want the point to throw in relation to the switch position. So it doesn't actually matter.
great video that made it so easy
Hi Bill, I’m new to this game, so your video has help me a lot. However, I would like to incorporate point indicators, so how would I go about incorporating the wiring for LED lights? Thank you in advance….. Brian
Thank you for your help
I know this video is 2 yrs old but I've just found it and have been looking all over to get information on how to wire my layout. I've just bought the new TT 120 set and track packs and am making a layout on a 5X4 ft board. But trying to find a simple guide to wiring it up and how to wire points is like banging my head against a brick wall. Will this work for turnout motors? And what motors would you recommend for my layout?
Many thanks for this video but one question, are the 4 passing switches connected with a Live wire between them as I don't see a live wire from the Controller output.
Also you don't by any chance have a video on how to wire up the bus and dropper wires do you?
Thanks very much.
I have no idea what motors are available for TT120 points I'm afraid. But yes this wiring will work it'll be the same principal. With the old Hornby lever switches they plug together so you don't need to have a wire linking them. But if you toggle type switches you will need to link them. If I remember rightly I show this in this video.
Good one . Quick question , what do you use to connect the subsidiary black wires to the bus . You mentioned terminal blocks , what type would these be and where do you get them ? Could you just solder the wire to the bus ?
I just cut and strip the wires then twist them together and solder them. Any sort of low amp terminal blocks will do for connecting wires but a Power Distribution Bus Power Terminal would be the ideal thing and what I intend to use soon to rewire everything. That way the block becomes the bus and keeps things very tidy.
@@oobill Cheers Bill . That last part could have been Gaelic ! I feel guilty as I’ve been into model railways for 50 odd years and I’m still asking these questions . As you can probably gather my electrics are essentially simple . I did have powered points in my eat;y layouts but haven’t bothered on my big loft layout , mainly because of all the wiring required . It would add something to operating though . Thanks for taking time to respond .
Thank you well explained
Which point motors do you recommend for this idea?
Hello Bill, you roughly know my layout- 2 main lines, four track station and at the other end the two main tracks plus two loops in each direction.
If you remember I nearly had a fire possibly as a result of having two power sources activated.
I am trying to resolve/avoid that problem moving ahead, so if I install two sets of points with a power source for tip line before a point and another power source on the other side of the second point just as you show at 2:54 would that work?
Would I need to isolate any loops or wire in toggles?
Sorry for the complicated question
Thanks
Charlie
Would need to see a plan of what you mean especially when it comes to whether or not you need or would benefit from toggles. Insulfrog points should isolate power from the turn out track when closed for straight ahead. For DC running you shouldn't really need to provide power either side of a point. The diagram in this video is for wiring point motors there are no power points shown on the track itself.
@@oobill will scratch one up
Doesn't the green wire always show in the middle of the point .motor?
On your diagram you have the green wire in the middle on a couple of points, but on the end connection on the others - which is correct ?
Either. Just determines which way the point throws in relation to the lever or switch.
Can you help me,I am running 5 points off my a bus wire and will add more on but does the bus wire have to be a large wire ,I am using peco surface points and I am using a gangemaster transfer type T 4,
layout is on a broad which is 80cm wide and 2400 cm long and is a termus layout, I will have about 18 points on it when finished ,it is a d.c.c layout
Meant to say the points are manual
Hi what uncontrolled dc output do you recommend
What amp chocolate blocks would you recommend for hornby point motors
These ones I use are 10amp.
👍
Terrific explanation and just what I was looking for. Just one question - instead of using the uncontrolled dc output, can I use the uncontrolled ac output, as the motor and passing contact switch can use either, and is the wiring the same ?
@@chrisgarner2873 yes you will be able to as far as I know
@@reliantrailways Thank you for that
mine isnt working :( such a frstrating hobby model railways
Clear instruction but that red and green on the diagram ain't much use for us colour blind types
brill