Hi sir, Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Question: I was given a cast iron pan of a similar size as yours in this video. It has been taken care of well enough. However, I can 'feel' that the bottom is very slightly curved. And, yes, it bothers me. My guess is that this occurs over time when the pan is washed right away - possibly under running cold water - instead of letting the pan cool down for a few minutes before wiping it, and, if need be, to wash it. Any idea how I could restore what I think was the original shape ?
Thank you. I already did my first seasoning, it came out really nice, it's late now I'll continue tomorrow and post the outcome. Very nice video and very helpful too. 👏👍 It’s been a month , I seasoned and seasoned 6 times total.....!!!! (In the oven ,just like he said) It’s perfect!!!!👌👌 I love my frying pan!!! I made cornbread ,it came out perfect turned the skillet over and it poped right out ....eggs slide into the plate too!!!👍👌👏👏
Do you have to cool the pan after the 1st seasoning before putting oil again for the 2nd seasoning? Or you put oil right away while still hot out from the oven?
I did this the other day and I found it way easier to just do it on the stove top, and just worry about the actual part food touches rather than the whole thing. Just put it on a burner then heat it up redic hot. Put a little oil on a rag then quickly rub it on, then buff it out. It'll smoke crazy but then polymerise realllly quickly, the smoke will stop in a minute or so. It just means you can bang out 5-6 coats on it super easily, instead of the oven method.
This is the best and most informational video I’ve watched on seasoning so far. Very good video, correction, the greatest video. Thank you so much for sharing.
Question, so I have 2 lodge cast iron pans, a 10.25 and a 12. After I cook and clean I do my maintenance seasoning on the stove top burner by applying oil and buffing out any excess....after I do this how long should I let it smoke? Mind you I'm just doing this once than letting it cool after. Thanks.
Exactly same for me. If you don’t already, try flipping it upside down so it heats up the whole inside. That seems like it helps me. Now if I could get my wife to buy in to all the extra work Lol
Can I reapply oil buff on the hot pan, then place in oven again, to get a thicker seasoning? Or does it first have to cool all the way in a turned off oven?
The way I season is based on what I learned from Serious Eats, and this video shows advanced, speedy technique that makes the process seem quicker and easier than it is. This guy's a chef. I would never recommend the public use an oily dish towel the way he is here, to stick your hand inside a cast iron pan well beyond the smoke point of oil and also to place it in and remove the hot pan from a hot oven. I am never going to do that because however fast and easy it is I don't want to burn my hand. I'm sure he's burned his hands so many times that he's an expert, but I'm not. If I told my unskilled parents to season this way I truly expect that they would hurt themselves. I apply a tiny bit of canola oil (flax is not needed, any cooking oil will do) with my bare hand or a paper towel to cold or warm cookware. Not hot. Paper towels can disintegrate so clean fabric may be better, but paper towels work if you're careful to not leave bits or paper on the pan to burn into the seasoning. I then wipe all the oil away. Then I put it in the cold oven, heat it up to the maximum heat, hold it for a few minutes, and then turn it off and let it cool. I repeat a few times. When I'm cooking high heat in the oven I sometimes will cook on the upper rack and season on the lower rack. I put the food in after the metal has been heated long enough to stop smoking (oil fully polymerized). In this way I get a round of seasoning in by piggybacking off of heating up the oven for something else. I can do the seasoning, then set the temperature lower (if necessary) and put in the food. It takes me several coatings to get what is shown in this video as one coating. But if you have the time, you can get an even coating without having to move around a 500°F 8lb pan. After burning some of my oven mitts moving very hot and heavy carbon steel from the oven to the stove (I was fine), I don't do that anymore. Nor would I stick an unprotected hand right in the hot pan as shown in the video. It's so easy to touch the pan by mistake. Or the scalding-hot oil being absorbed by the fabric you're holding. You won't notice it's too hot before you're injured, because the burn will happen in an instant. If you're holding the pan, you'll drop it. You could try using tongs to oil the hot pan but it's probably not precise enough to ensure even oiling. Heatproof gloves? They could work, I suppose. I don't bother, since I want to season the handle, outside, and bottom of the pan anyway. You may be able to do it all at once in the oven. I often don't. I have a flat baking steel, and do one side at a time rather than season with a face against a rack. Seasoning evenly and cautiously, without handling the hot cookware, can be a chore, but I take the time to make sure I do it correctly and safely. After initial seasoning, maintenance is easy if you treat your cookware correctly. But clearly at least the inside of a pan or face of a flat surface can be done fine on a stovetop. Just be careful. I would not apply the oil when the pan is hot enough to cause burns instantaneously. If the pan is cool or warm, I can wipe my finger across it to make sure it's dry enough before turning on the heat. If you season a lot, it's probably worth experimenting with faster techniques and developing skill. But for beginners, take it slow and cautiously. You can season entirely in the oven without having to handle the pan when it gets hot enough to polymerize the fat on its surface. You also may prefer the smoking oil be in your oven rathe than on your stovetop. It smells, although if you use the recommended barely-there amount of oil the smell doesn't last long as it polymerizes quickly. Even after ten coats of seasoning my carbon steel is dark brown, not black. But brown is perfectly functional, and the user can work toward thickening the seasoning to black over time.
I've struggled with the issue of winding up with a sticky residue after seasoning in the oven. He's not kidding when he says if you think it's too much oil, it definitely is. It's also a good idea to just do a little maintenance layer of seasoning on the stovetop after every second use or so.
There is one additional hugely beneficial trick when seasoning cast iron and carbon steel. After wiping off as much of the oil as possible, there will still be pockets of oil that got rubbed into the pores. This is why this fellow still ended up with spots on his carbon steel pan in spite of wiping it down extremely thoroughly. No amount of wiping will get into the pores: ua-cam.com/video/9FqNF_PizuU/v-deo.html The solution to this is to warm the pan in the oven at about 300˚F for 15 minutes, and then to take it out to wipe up any oil that has expanded out of those pores. See this: ua-cam.com/video/j6Tz3HnnCFs/v-deo.html I linked directly to the time stamp where he does this. You can see that after the 300˚F 15 minute heating, a bunch of spots have formed even though he wiped down his pans extremely thoroughly. By wiping these away, the seasoning ends up spot free, with no thick spots and no sticky residue. This appears to be the real insight that finally eliminates the spotting and inconsistent seasoning that thorough wiping alone will not achieve.
You can also take the skillet out of the oven and wipe it out again after 10 minutes after 15 minutes it's probably too late. That is if you had too much oil . It's hard to not want to have more oil on
Before you start applying the first layer of oil you can make a chemical etching with vinegar to have a guarantee that you with a surface with zero oxidation.,
Hi there. I know this video is old but I have 2 questions on the carbon steel pans that are still leaving me a bit confused. 1. Similar to the cast iron, are you also applying seasoning to the bottom of the carbon steel pans? 2. The carbon steel pans in this video look like De Buyer Mineral B pans. On their website, it says to not keep them in the oven for longer than 10-20 minutes. Is it fine to just use the stovetop then?
I had the same question about the bottom of the pan, I looked at the serious eats article/website and there's a photo of the pan upside down with someone wiping oil on the bottom of the pan with a towel ❤
Just bought a cast iron dutch pot, washed as directed, the pot is rough so when I pot oil onto the pot after warming in oven for 15 mins I get bits of lint all over the pot, I've tried all sorts cloths paper towels, it won't buff up because it's rough, put in oven for 50mins high temp...it's now sticky, help!
So I have a cast iron meat press for a grill or inside. Can I put it on the stove for the seasoning? It probably came preseasoned but just curious for the future. The handle is plastic or silicone
I have the same pans. The reason DeBuyer recommends that is because of the coating on the handles, it will start to tear, fall apart and stick to your towel or oven mitts. It happened to me, but since I use them like that quite a lot I just scrubbed the coating off with a steel scourer. They will be a bit more slippy and prone to heat up but I don't mind that as I never grab them without a towel. Hope this helped!
Is there a way to do it in the oven? I got a tiny cast iron skillet with a brownie mix an it didn’t say anything about seasoning and I only remembered after I used it first time . I seasoned it with fat too much oil an it went stick so I’m starting again
Was wondering the same thing. I only ever saw one in a store, and the handle definitely had some sort of glaze that I had assumed was some kind of enamel. Apparently not, if it melts off like that. Just curious though, but does the yellow dot of silicone on the handle stand up fine to those temps in the oven?
@@Boyetto-san It also got soft, but didn't drip out. The issue came from my removing the pan from the oven with a towel, and the towel deformed and stuck to that handle coating. The Debuyer website FAQ actually says that the handle can only handle 200C (392F) for 10mins.
You don't need to keep seasoning the outside. The factory pre-seasoning is more than sufficient to prevent rust. The only reason for continuing to season the outside is if you somehow remove the seasoning down to bare metal. Otherwise, don't bother seasoning the outside.
how many time do I need to do the seasoning process before the food stops sticking. I boiled water, dried it, rubbed oil put in oven 3 times and still food sticks. please help. I have the brandani hard-nitriding cast iron skillet.
My cloth gets brownish. Very much the first layers. Maybe i'm doing this wrong, is maybe a thorough cleaning necessary at first? But now when I've done this procedure of course I don't to do anything else than use it. Hope it will keep well.
Great video, simple to follow. I'm always looking for a new and improved way to season cast iron. Looks like the way of the ancients is still tried and true. I recently found the wonders of using avocado oil for my seasoning. Good stuff, high smoke point, great for other cooking, frying, etc.
@@monicavazquez3744 make sure the avocado oil you have is not fake. Do a search on UA-cam for Avocado oil scam. Maybe the one you have contains a lot of corn oil!
I purchased a 99% Blue Carbon Steel Pan a few months ago and here are the directions on how to season from the attached card: 1) Clean the pan thoroughly with some detergent and a washing-up brush. 2) Place the pan on the stove, dry it thoroughly. 3) Add a layer of salt on the surface of the pan. 4) Burner set to medium heat. Heat the pan until the salt color have changed. 5) Turn off the heat: Pour out the salt; let the pan cool down for 1 min. 6) Pour a bit of oil into the pan, use a paper towel to spread the oil all over the surface of the pan. Place the pan back on the stove, set the burner to medium high heat. Heat until the oil starts to smoke. 7) Turn off the heat; remove the pan from the stovetop. The pan is well seasoned now. That's a big difference from the video. Man, consumers have it rough when trying to figure many things out. Good luck to everyone!
@@frezzingaces salt absorbs humidity very fast (that's why in humid weathers it starts to clump up and stick together) it then absorbs all the humidity out of the pan and make sure it's totally dry
I have watched quite a few videos and have read a number of threads and articles about this. There is always something different from one to the other. This person says 500f for an hour and cool for 2 hrs between coats. Another person says 350f for an hour. Pan upside down. Pan right side up. This guy says 450f for 30 minutes right side up. There is no consensus.
For real. I have no idea what actually works best. I'm also really curious WHY we do each thing. Maybe that would give us some insight into which method is best.
The main goal is to make the applied oil harden into a glassy layer. The constants are that oil must be applied and then the pan must be exposed to high heat. The temp depends on the smoke point of the oil used. An oil with a lower smoke point will smoke and harden at a lower temperature but generally speaking, hotter is better. The length of time depends on how much oil. This guy wipes almost all of it off and it doesn't take as long. You need to go until the oil stops smoking. Other people apply more oil and will turn the pan upside down to prevent uneven patches from pooling and building up in the bottom of the pan.
@@junrenman Yikes! I agree on the non-synthetic. I just have found the cotton ones tend to leave a little fuzz. I'm trying to figure out which cotton or natural fibre cloth is best.
Pretty much any rag, avoid using paper towels though, they leave lint on your pan, which will end up in your food next time. They have those blue lint free paper towels but I prefer to not mess around with that when a 10 pack of quality microfiber towels will only cost a few dollars.
@@afiacco88 Good to know. We have some microfiber towels my husband but I don't love microfiber. I don't like the feel and I prefer something more natural. I was wondering if there was a natural option that didn't leave lint. The search continues... I have another question that maybe you or someone here can answer. Both my Lodge pan and my Artisinal Kitchen Supply pans seem to shed little black dots. Have you experienced this? What do you think this is from? Should I worry about it? Any thoughts on solving this? Thank you so much!
@@NaturalLivingwithZenana that's fine if you dont like using them, you can always use an old cotton t-shirt if you have one you dont care about anymore......as for the black dots coming off, that's quite a common problem, it's basically your seasoning coming off and leaving the bare metal unprotected. Without sounding rude it basically means that you're not seasoning your pan the right way THATS IF I'm correct about what the problem is. Just look up videos on how to season cast iron pans in the oven and you should be good to follow that.
i ve just bought a cast iron pan, i did the seasoning but i ve put much more oil on it and now the pan is a bit sticky on both sides, should i redo the seasoning or put it in the oven for one more time until the oil ''comes off''?
I have some questions, please help me :( : 1. For a carbon steel pan, can I use soybean oil for seasoning? 2. I've never seasoned a pan before, people told me that I should put the pan in the oven, heat it before putting oil on it to avoid some ugly dots on the pan? Is that correct? 3. In my place we tend to wash the pan using soap, until there is no oil stuck on the pan because we're afraid that the oil can be rancid when it's left outside, I just wonder if we just leave the oil like that, on the pan after seasoning, will the oil be rancid? 4. Can I wash the pan using soap right after seasoning? (I mean after I cook, wash it and put it on the shelf for later use) 5. When I season, should I only take a rag, dip it in my soybean oil, place it all over the pan and heat it, instead of putting a large cup of oil? Thank you.
As far as I know: 1. any kitchen oil can do. Canola seems mostly used. 2. On a hot surface you can spread the oil thinner, this you want! 3. After polymerization it isn't oil anymore and can't go rancid 4. Wash with little soap and dry (best on stove) 5. As little as possible with a rag (you obviously did not watch the video)
Nice video! What do you say, can I season with cooking fat, the white pork fat (lard)? I will cook more with pork fat then with vegetable oil. I have one new carbon steel pan, that I wish to start using soon :) My other carbon steel, and cast iron skillet have been seasoned with oil.
Yes, that's why they come pre-seasoned because some people don't have the time to do the work or the know-how. Jus wash your brand new pre-seasoned pan and use it right away.
I wouldn't recommend that, actually. spend the time, to do a quick, easy, preliminary cleaning, then initial 'season' routine. there could likely exist, some 'elements' in the pan, from shipping, manufacture', and basically just some unwanted 'non-food' enhancing coatings and whatnot...that would be prudent to remove, before your first Use.
P. Walker Go watch a video on your question from Cowboy Kent Rollins. He has a great step by step process for seasoning new cast iron. I have two new skillets from Lodge with pre-seasoning. I followed it and my pans are awesome! Good luck
I buffed mine up quite like crazy and still nearly set off the smoke alarm. Can you just do the heating in the oven with somewhat lower temperatures but with perhaps longer periods of baking time? If I have to buffer it more than I did, which was a LOT, this will prove to be way too labour intensive. Thanks ~
It sounds like you might still have a bit too thick an oil layer; maybe try using less oil to start or using a drier part of the towel when you buff to thin out the layer? Depending on how much oil you started with you might need to unfold/refold to expose a dry section multiple times as you buff it out. I personally just touch my finger to the oil to pick up a very small drop of oil and then transfer that to the cloth; it ensures there's less oil to go around from the getgo
I do mine in oven at 375 in middle rack for 20 minutes. Then turn it upside down for another 45 minutes. Let cool replace process two more times at 400 bit stay at 400-425 upside down a hour at a time.
Good video. Thank you for starting out by saying what seasoning is NOT. The Carbon Steel pan lets you see the effect of the seasoning which you cannot see with the cast iron pan. This was very informative. BUT: You did not advise people on how to clean the pans after each use, or how frequently you need to re-apply the seasoning.
Great video! Do you need to season your cast-iron if it comes pre-seasoned? Or should you strip it of its seasonings and re-season it? Also wondering how to wash cast-iron pans afterward, some people say to keep it away from soap and water but I'm not sure how else you're supposed to clean the pan.
The only reason I'd strip off pre-seasoning is if i wanted to sand down the metal to make it more smooth. If you're not bothered by that sort of thing, go ahead and season over the pre-seasoning. It'll work just fine. As for washing, it's a complete myth that you can't soap seasoned cast iron. The reality is that scrubbing too hard is more likely to take off layers than modern dishwashing liquids. I don't always put my cast iron through soap, since left over oil is nice to use for a seasoning layer after cooking (just pour off the excess oil and wipe any food bits off, give it a buff all around, then shove it in a hot oven). But if something super sticky from the food got really stuck in there, go ahead and soap it. In that situation, soap would actually help because it lets you scrub more gently.
Oh, one last tip - if I got some really sticky stuff in my iron cookware that doesn't wanna come out with boiling water and a brush, I use a chain mail cleaner with hot water. Soap water would be the next 'escalation level' then. If that also fails, baking soda is your friend. But that will definitely eat up a certain amount of the seasoning thus requiring re-seasoning.
When seasoning cast iron on the stovetop, I dont have access to an oven and yes it sucks, do I have to wait for the skillet to cool completely before adding another layer of seasoning?
no, once the oil polymerizes you can add the next coat immediately. In fact, it's preferable to add coats while the pan is still warm/hot. Just be careful not to burn yourself.
I remember seeing those de Buyer carbon steel pans in person. I had doubts about whether that yellow silicone dot they leave on the handle can actually withstand oven use. Does it like melt off over time? I also remember the handles on those feeling like they already had some sort of glaze. Does that mean you don't need to season over the handles?
@kingsmeadowSeasoning also protects from rust. I was asking if the handles on these were already glazed and hence pre-protected from rust. It felt like they were, and if that's so, they wouldn't need seasoning, but I'm not sure.
This line of de Buyer pans (the Mineral B ones) definitely has some sort of plastic coating on the handle. When I tried seasoning it in the oven, it darkened in color and became quite sticky. Maybe my oven was too hot, I'd say generally using them in the oven shouldn't be a problem, but I'd season them on a burner.
According to the de Buyer website, the Mineral B pans are only oven safe for 10 min @ 400 degrees. Not sure how the handles on the pans in this video are not getting messed up. I have several de Buyer pans and I don't put them in the oven to season - I wish I could.
Cheap cotton dish towel or even paper towels. Don't use synthetic fabric like polyester or microfiber towels or you'll have a mess. You don't want any type of towel that melts.
Hey guys, if anyone could help I’d be so appreciative! I’m in the middle of a seasoning project. Started with vegetable oil. Left too much on. Sticky results. Stripped. Started over. Using crisco this time. Currently on my 4th seasoning. No stickiness so that’s good but is it possible to wipe too much off? It’s still grey and matte. Not black and glossy. Is that okay? Am I hoping for the wrong results. I’ve cooked with cast iron. But other people’s. This part, the seasoning part, I really have no experience with. I’ve read a ton but there’s this sort of question which I can’t really find an answer for.
Iv'e been following the guidelines from Seriouseats.com of how to season and maintain my pans. Some people may say it's high maintainance with iron pans, but it's probably the most easily maintained pan after non-stick. I always clean out the pan while it's still hot with soapy water. Put it back on a high flame, rub it with canola oil, buff it thoroughly and then let it sit on a high flame for a couple of minutes. Only took a few months of daily use to be able to do american style omelettes, frittatas etc. with no sticking.
I was told not to put it in the dishwasher or use any type of soap I use hot water and a dish brush or a stainless chainmail for hard to get off food remains.
What are you really seasoning the pan with? Several videos recommend putting the pan in a 500 degree oven for 30 minutes to pre-heat. At that temperature, wouldn’t the polymerized coating break down?
I’m praying someone can finally answer this for me.....can you safely wash an iron skillet with soap and water occasionally? I know you have to keep it dried and oiled but I still am not sure about washing it, even if it’s on rare occasion.
Yes, modern detergents do not have lye. You can use soap safely with a brush or sponge. If something is really caked on, deglaze the pan by boiling a thin layer of water in it and rub off the tough parts with your spatula.
...or just slowly heat on the range to get the pan hot ... turn the heat up, get screaming hot, and then apply your oil/grease/lard ... wipe it on, wipe it off, 'buff' it out ... heat again until the smoke almost stops, then oil & buff again ... allow to cool & that's it. Takes minutes, and is all that's needed.
I season on the stovetop, or better yet outside on a grill. When the oil smokes, it makes a very smooth hard surface. Other essential to nonstick is to smooth out the cooking surface with a sander or grinder.
wow! so sorry to hear that,! ... what went wrong? I'm just finishing the first try and went well... now I'm afraid to do the 3 or 4 more! I'll wait till you answer... hopefully soon. 👍 Tks.
@@chrisflynn6036 I'm doing it as I watch this video ....... and have all my windows and doors open and exhaust fans going in hopes that the smoke alarms don't go off. My eyeballs are burning :)
As a note: De Buyer Mineral B pans are featured here and they are shipped coated with 100% beeswax. You absolutely can start seasoning with that coating and seasoning with beeswax is actually a thing.
@@Tyler-jq6ol They also say one can use it as a seasoning. They go both ways- conventional to start with whatever one prefers and to just start cooking the beeswax. Why would they use expensive beeswax and stamp the symbol on their pans when they're just the same as their other pans delivered with no beeswax? They give two options- use your own, so then remove the beeswax, or go with the beeswax. I've gone both ways and I have beeswax at home and it works pretty well on pans and is a very well-known seasoning method.
I'm having difficulty seasoning. I notice the seasoning is coming off on the handle. I feel like if I don't really get on top of seasoning it right that it's going to rust. It's driving me nuts.
Even if it that's its not too big of a deal. So you can try and experiment. If it rusts, just scour it down completely, removing all previous seasoning, all rust, until you are left with fresh cast iron, and then reseason
Not if it's a short cook. A quick acidic pan sauce won't dissolve the seasoning. But don't leave acidic things on the seasoning more than a few minutes or you will start to dissolve the seasoning. If you're simmering tomatoes, don't use a seasoned pan! You can use it for everything but those long cook time acidic foods. You can use an unseasoned stainless steel or nonstick-coated or enameled pan for tomato sauce.
A little confusing in the beginning, if my cast iron comes pre-seasoned, you said i'm good to go and i'll "keep maintaining and building up that seasoning". So, i won't ever have to season it? Does it mean I do something different before I wash the pan, orr?
i sanded my pan down to a 1200 finish. i guessing im going to have to do this 100 times... it is kinda neat to see my self in a cast iron. im testing to see if it makes any difference if any at all
@@spiralout112 You mean like Crisco? A bottle of Organic Flaxseed came with a Kickstarter CI I supported, got OK results with it BUT the smoke smelled like *burnt rotten fish*!
Seems to me you would want to let the pans cool down before adding another coat of oil, that way you could control exactly the thin oil layer you want to apply. Applying oil on a hot pan, the oil would start polymerizing before you could coat the entire surface and it might even get sticky right then and there because of the heat from the pan
There's a lot of mumbo jumbo and ritual on the internet about seasoning cast iron so thanks for demystifying (and simplifying) the whole "art" of seasoning. I have a newly purchased Griswold #9 gem iron in the oven being seasoned as I write this!
But this is the mumbo jumbo. Seasoning is literally just opening up the pors in the metal so that oil goes into it and thus making it non-stick. You do this after thoroughly washing the pan, and the food can't get lodges into the pors anymore because the oil is trapped there. I didn't know there was a pan seasoning cult, dear lord.
@seriouseats Question (this may just be specific to electric ranges) - when I first got my De Buyer Carbone Plus carbon steel pan I followed a similar seasoning as shown. But after use and a quick rinse, then putting it back on the burner with a light coating of oil at high heat the seasoning burned off. Is this just an electric range thing since they can get so hot?
If the seasoning burns off, the skillet was way too hot. You only need enough heat to be a little over your oil's smoking point. Somewhere beyond 400° Celsius (not Fahrenheit) the seasoning (and everything else) will simply burn to ashes and fall off. That process is called pyrolysis and is used in self cleaning ovens. So make sure never to heat up your skillet that high or you will have to start all over with a new seasoning process. It can, however, make sense to heat up a new, unseasoned skillet that high to heat treat it. But that requires an open heat source like a gas stove top. In that case you heat up the skillet to the point where it starts to change color from silver to brown, dark blue, light blue and then grayish silver again. If the whole skillet went through that color circle, you turn off the heat, let it cool down for like 15 minutes and give it a wash with mild soap water. Then dry it on the stove top and start the seasoning process of your choice. The heat treatment creates an iron oxide layer which on top of the seasoning furthermore protects the skillet from rust. The same process is used by manufacturers like DeBuyer (Blue Line) and Lodge (heat treated cast iron series).
This mechanic sure knows his way around cast iron.
2:15 is where seasoning instructions start
Not all heroes wear capes
@@83jwilson LOL
Best advice for seasoning pans I have seen in the net. Thanks for the video.
Hi sir, Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Question: I was given a cast iron pan of a similar size as yours in this video. It has been taken care of well enough. However, I can 'feel' that the bottom is very slightly curved. And, yes, it bothers me. My guess is that this occurs over time when the pan is washed right away - possibly under running cold water - instead of letting the pan cool down for a few minutes before wiping it, and, if need be, to wash it. Any idea how I could restore what I think was the original shape ?
Thank you. I already did my first seasoning, it came out really nice, it's late now I'll continue tomorrow and post the outcome. Very nice video and very helpful too. 👏👍
It’s been a month , I seasoned and seasoned 6 times total.....!!!! (In the oven ,just like he said) It’s perfect!!!!👌👌 I love my frying pan!!!
I made cornbread ,it came out perfect turned the skillet over and it poped right out ....eggs slide into the plate too!!!👍👌👏👏
Do you have to cool the pan after the 1st seasoning before putting oil again for the 2nd seasoning? Or you put oil right away while still hot out from the oven?
@@aldofigueroa6144 let it cool
I did this the other day and I found it way easier to just do it on the stove top, and just worry about the actual part food touches rather than the whole thing. Just put it on a burner then heat it up redic hot. Put a little oil on a rag then quickly rub it on, then buff it out. It'll smoke crazy but then polymerise realllly quickly, the smoke will stop in a minute or so. It just means you can bang out 5-6 coats on it super easily, instead of the oven method.
This is the best and most informational video I’ve watched on seasoning so far. Very good video, correction, the greatest video. Thank you so much for sharing.
Question, so I have 2 lodge cast iron pans, a 10.25 and a 12. After I cook and clean I do my maintenance seasoning on the stove top burner by applying oil and buffing out any excess....after I do this how long should I let it smoke? Mind you I'm just doing this once than letting it cool after. Thanks.
If I season on the stove, do I warm up the pan, oil it then stop when it starts to smoke, let it cool, then repeat
Exactly same for me. If you don’t already, try flipping it upside down so it heats up the whole inside. That seems like it helps me. Now if I could get my wife to buy in to all the extra work Lol
Can I reapply oil buff on the hot pan, then place in oven again, to get a thicker seasoning? Or does it first have to cool all the way in a turned off oven?
You want thin layers. Let it cool first.
@@jamesaroeuett1567 it doesn't need to cool down first, the previous layer just has to have polymerised before adding on a new coat.
The way I season is based on what I learned from Serious Eats, and this video shows advanced, speedy technique that makes the process seem quicker and easier than it is. This guy's a chef. I would never recommend the public use an oily dish towel the way he is here, to stick your hand inside a cast iron pan well beyond the smoke point of oil and also to place it in and remove the hot pan from a hot oven. I am never going to do that because however fast and easy it is I don't want to burn my hand. I'm sure he's burned his hands so many times that he's an expert, but I'm not. If I told my unskilled parents to season this way I truly expect that they would hurt themselves.
I apply a tiny bit of canola oil (flax is not needed, any cooking oil will do) with my bare hand or a paper towel to cold or warm cookware. Not hot. Paper towels can disintegrate so clean fabric may be better, but paper towels work if you're careful to not leave bits or paper on the pan to burn into the seasoning. I then wipe all the oil away. Then I put it in the cold oven, heat it up to the maximum heat, hold it for a few minutes, and then turn it off and let it cool. I repeat a few times. When I'm cooking high heat in the oven I sometimes will cook on the upper rack and season on the lower rack. I put the food in after the metal has been heated long enough to stop smoking (oil fully polymerized). In this way I get a round of seasoning in by piggybacking off of heating up the oven for something else. I can do the seasoning, then set the temperature lower (if necessary) and put in the food.
It takes me several coatings to get what is shown in this video as one coating. But if you have the time, you can get an even coating without having to move around a 500°F 8lb pan. After burning some of my oven mitts moving very hot and heavy carbon steel from the oven to the stove (I was fine), I don't do that anymore. Nor would I stick an unprotected hand right in the hot pan as shown in the video. It's so easy to touch the pan by mistake. Or the scalding-hot oil being absorbed by the fabric you're holding. You won't notice it's too hot before you're injured, because the burn will happen in an instant. If you're holding the pan, you'll drop it. You could try using tongs to oil the hot pan but it's probably not precise enough to ensure even oiling. Heatproof gloves? They could work, I suppose. I don't bother, since I want to season the handle, outside, and bottom of the pan anyway. You may be able to do it all at once in the oven. I often don't. I have a flat baking steel, and do one side at a time rather than season with a face against a rack.
Seasoning evenly and cautiously, without handling the hot cookware, can be a chore, but I take the time to make sure I do it correctly and safely. After initial seasoning, maintenance is easy if you treat your cookware correctly.
But clearly at least the inside of a pan or face of a flat surface can be done fine on a stovetop. Just be careful. I would not apply the oil when the pan is hot enough to cause burns instantaneously. If the pan is cool or warm, I can wipe my finger across it to make sure it's dry enough before turning on the heat.
If you season a lot, it's probably worth experimenting with faster techniques and developing skill. But for beginners, take it slow and cautiously. You can season entirely in the oven without having to handle the pan when it gets hot enough to polymerize the fat on its surface. You also may prefer the smoking oil be in your oven rathe than on your stovetop. It smells, although if you use the recommended barely-there amount of oil the smell doesn't last long as it polymerizes quickly.
Even after ten coats of seasoning my carbon steel is dark brown, not black. But brown is perfectly functional, and the user can work toward thickening the seasoning to black over time.
If an adult doesn't know a hot pan is hot and it can burn then there is a problem :)
I've struggled with the issue of winding up with a sticky residue after seasoning in the oven. He's not kidding when he says if you think it's too much oil, it definitely is. It's also a good idea to just do a little maintenance layer of seasoning on the stovetop after every second use or so.
There is one additional hugely beneficial trick when seasoning cast iron and carbon steel. After wiping off as much of the oil as possible, there will still be pockets of oil that got rubbed into the pores. This is why this fellow still ended up with spots on his carbon steel pan in spite of wiping it down extremely thoroughly. No amount of wiping will get into the pores:
ua-cam.com/video/9FqNF_PizuU/v-deo.html
The solution to this is to warm the pan in the oven at about 300˚F for 15 minutes, and then to take it out to wipe up any oil that has expanded out of those pores. See this:
ua-cam.com/video/j6Tz3HnnCFs/v-deo.html
I linked directly to the time stamp where he does this. You can see that after the 300˚F 15 minute heating, a bunch of spots have formed even though he wiped down his pans extremely thoroughly. By wiping these away, the seasoning ends up spot free, with no thick spots and no sticky residue. This appears to be the real insight that finally eliminates the spotting and inconsistent seasoning that thorough wiping alone will not achieve.
@@Berkana Thanks for the useful comment.
You can also take the skillet out of the oven and wipe it out again after 10 minutes after 15 minutes it's probably too late. That is if you had too much oil . It's hard to not want to have more oil on
Before you start applying the first layer of oil you can make a chemical etching with vinegar to have a guarantee that you with a surface with zero oxidation.,
I must be dense, because i can't figure out what sort of grease or oil you said to use. If you could let me know, i ' thank you in advance.
Hi there. I know this video is old but I have 2 questions on the carbon steel pans that are still leaving me a bit confused.
1. Similar to the cast iron, are you also applying seasoning to the bottom of the carbon steel pans?
2. The carbon steel pans in this video look like De Buyer Mineral B pans. On their website, it says to not keep them in the oven for longer than 10-20 minutes. Is it fine to just use the stovetop then?
I had the same question about the bottom of the pan, I looked at the serious eats article/website and there's a photo of the pan upside down with someone wiping oil on the bottom of the pan with a towel ❤
Just bought a cast iron dutch pot, washed as directed, the pot is rough so when I pot oil onto the pot after warming in oven for 15 mins I get bits of lint all over the pot, I've tried all sorts cloths paper towels, it won't buff up because it's rough, put in oven for 50mins high temp...it's now sticky, help!
Does this have to be done after every use?
can you do this for carbon steel wok?
This video single handedly cleared a lot of doubts. Like he said there was a lot of confusion here and there but I know better now. Thank you!
What kind of oil do you use?
Wait , what are you buffing with? Won't burn the rag down?
Thought you can’t put in those Mineral B pans cuz the handles are coated?
I think it's silicon. Silicon is good to 750 degrees? Depends on the type though....
So I have a cast iron meat press for a grill or inside. Can I put it on the stove for the seasoning? It probably came preseasoned but just curious for the future. The handle is plastic or silicone
Question: the De Buyer pans you're using only recommend 200ºC for up to 10 minutes or are those a different type of pan?
I have the same pans. The reason DeBuyer recommends that is because of the coating on the handles, it will start to tear, fall apart and stick to your towel or oven mitts. It happened to me, but since I use them like that quite a lot I just scrubbed the coating off with a steel scourer. They will be a bit more slippy and prone to heat up but I don't mind that as I never grab them without a towel.
Hope this helped!
When you take the pan from the oven, do you let it cool at all before applying more oil?
Yes
Good video, a thought, the oven should be 25 to 50' hotter than smoke point of oil,
Is there a way to do it in the oven? I got a tiny cast iron skillet with a brownie mix an it didn’t say anything about seasoning and I only remembered after I used it first time . I seasoned it with fat too much oil an it went stick so I’m starting again
What oil we using here ?
Daniel how did that Mineral B pan react to that 450F? When I seasoned my last one, the coating on the handle melted and now sticks to everything.
Was wondering the same thing. I only ever saw one in a store, and the handle definitely had some sort of glaze that I had assumed was some kind of enamel. Apparently not, if it melts off like that. Just curious though, but does the yellow dot of silicone on the handle stand up fine to those temps in the oven?
@@Boyetto-san It also got soft, but didn't drip out. The issue came from my removing the pan from the oven with a towel, and the towel deformed and stuck to that handle coating. The Debuyer website FAQ actually says that the handle can only handle 200C (392F) for 10mins.
I've never had an issue!
The carbone plus is the same pan but without the wax coating and silicone handle.
You don't need to keep seasoning the outside. The factory pre-seasoning is more than sufficient to prevent rust. The only reason for continuing to season the outside is if you somehow remove the seasoning down to bare metal. Otherwise, don't bother seasoning the outside.
how many time do I need to do the seasoning process before the food stops sticking. I boiled water, dried it, rubbed oil put in oven 3 times and still food sticks. please help. I have the brandani hard-nitriding cast iron skillet.
My cloth gets brownish. Very much the first layers. Maybe i'm doing this wrong, is maybe a thorough cleaning necessary at first? But now when I've done this procedure of course I don't to do anything else than use it. Hope it will keep well.
Erika Björk same questions I have on everything you said.
For cast iron pans, do you wash with soap after every use and let dry? Or do you have to re-season after every use and wash?
No need to reseason after every cooking session. Just wash and dry
can you take the pan out of the over and just apply another layer of oil ? don't you need to let i cool down ?
Great video, simple to follow. I'm always looking for a new and improved way to season cast iron. Looks like the way of the ancients is still tried and true. I recently found the wonders of using avocado oil for my seasoning. Good stuff, high smoke point, great for other cooking, frying, etc.
Hi... but what about the taste?
I can't get my head around avocado tasting cornbread 😜
@@monicavazquez3744 make sure the avocado oil you have is not fake. Do a search on UA-cam for Avocado oil scam. Maybe the one you have contains a lot of corn oil!
I purchased a 99% Blue Carbon Steel Pan a few months ago and here are the directions on how to season from the attached card:
1) Clean the pan thoroughly with some detergent and a washing-up brush.
2) Place the pan on the stove, dry it thoroughly.
3) Add a layer of salt on the surface of the pan.
4) Burner set to medium heat. Heat the pan until the salt color have changed.
5) Turn off the heat: Pour out the salt; let the pan cool down for 1 min.
6) Pour a bit of oil into the pan, use a paper towel to spread the oil all over the surface of the pan. Place the pan back on the stove, set the burner to medium high heat. Heat until the oil starts to smoke.
7) Turn off the heat; remove the pan from the stovetop. The pan is well seasoned now.
That's a big difference from the video. Man, consumers have it rough when trying to figure many things out. Good luck to everyone!
what the heck is the salt for?
lol. I have no idea.
@@frezzingaces It helps to dry up any remaining water molecules.
@@frezzingaces salt absorbs humidity very fast (that's why in humid weathers it starts to clump up and stick together) it then absorbs all the humidity out of the pan and make sure it's totally dry
I have watched quite a few videos and have read a number of threads and articles about this. There is always something different from one to the other. This person says 500f for an hour and cool for 2 hrs between coats. Another person says 350f for an hour. Pan upside down. Pan right side up. This guy says 450f for 30 minutes right side up. There is no consensus.
For real. I have no idea what actually works best. I'm also really curious WHY we do each thing. Maybe that would give us some insight into which method is best.
I bought an IKEA cast iron pot and it says to heat it up to a max of 150 degrees celcius :/ I'm following it for now and see how it turns out
@@sissyfart How's that working?
The main goal is to make the applied oil harden into a glassy layer. The constants are that oil must be applied and then the pan must be exposed to high heat. The temp depends on the smoke point of the oil used. An oil with a lower smoke point will smoke and harden at a lower temperature but generally speaking, hotter is better. The length of time depends on how much oil. This guy wipes almost all of it off and it doesn't take as long. You need to go until the oil stops smoking. Other people apply more oil and will turn the pan upside down to prevent uneven patches from pooling and building up in the bottom of the pan.
Been cooking 50+ years cast iron... high heat is the way to go. Above the oils smoke point.
Great video! Buffing it out seems to be the secret to a good season. Can you use any type of rag? Or are some better than others for buffing?
Cotton or any non-synthetic rag. Had a microfiber one start to melt on me...
@@junrenman Yikes! I agree on the non-synthetic. I just have found the cotton ones tend to leave a little fuzz. I'm trying to figure out which cotton or natural fibre cloth is best.
Pretty much any rag, avoid using paper towels though, they leave lint on your pan, which will end up in your food next time. They have those blue lint free paper towels but I prefer to not mess around with that when a 10 pack of quality microfiber towels will only cost a few dollars.
@@afiacco88 Good to know. We have some microfiber towels my husband but I don't love microfiber. I don't like the feel and I prefer something more natural. I was wondering if there was a natural option that didn't leave lint. The search continues...
I have another question that maybe you or someone here can answer. Both my Lodge pan and my Artisinal Kitchen Supply pans seem to shed little black dots. Have you experienced this? What do you think this is from? Should I worry about it? Any thoughts on solving this? Thank you so much!
@@NaturalLivingwithZenana that's fine if you dont like using them, you can always use an old cotton t-shirt if you have one you dont care about anymore......as for the black dots coming off, that's quite a common problem, it's basically your seasoning coming off and leaving the bare metal unprotected. Without sounding rude it basically means that you're not seasoning your pan the right way THATS IF I'm correct about what the problem is. Just look up videos on how to season cast iron pans in the oven and you should be good to follow that.
i ve just bought a cast iron pan, i did the seasoning but i ve put much more oil on it and now the pan is a bit sticky on both sides, should i redo the seasoning or put it in the oven for one more time until the oil ''comes off''?
Do you oil the entirety of the carbon steel like you do the cast iron?
Yes, or it will rust just like cast iron.
I have some questions, please help me :( :
1. For a carbon steel pan, can I use soybean oil for seasoning?
2. I've never seasoned a pan before, people told me that I should put the pan in the oven, heat it before putting oil on it to avoid some ugly dots on the pan? Is that correct?
3. In my place we tend to wash the pan using soap, until there is no oil stuck on the pan because we're afraid that the oil can be rancid when it's left outside, I just wonder if we just leave the oil like that, on the pan after seasoning, will the oil be rancid?
4. Can I wash the pan using soap right after seasoning? (I mean after I cook, wash it and put it on the shelf for later use)
5. When I season, should I only take a rag, dip it in my soybean oil, place it all over the pan and heat it, instead of putting a large cup of oil?
Thank you.
As far as I know:
1. any kitchen oil can do. Canola seems mostly used.
2. On a hot surface you can spread the oil thinner, this you want!
3. After polymerization it isn't oil anymore and can't go rancid
4. Wash with little soap and dry (best on stove)
5. As little as possible with a rag (you obviously did not watch the video)
Nice video! What do you say, can I season with cooking fat, the white pork fat (lard)? I will cook more with pork fat then with vegetable oil. I have one new carbon steel pan, that I wish to start using soon :) My other carbon steel, and cast iron skillet have been seasoned with oil.
If I buy a preseasoned skillet online can I use it the day it ships without any prep other than heating? What’s the best way to clean after use?
Yes, that's why they come pre-seasoned because some people don't have the time to do the work or the know-how. Jus wash your brand new pre-seasoned pan and use it right away.
I wouldn't recommend that, actually. spend the time, to do a quick, easy, preliminary cleaning, then initial 'season' routine. there could likely exist, some 'elements' in the pan, from shipping, manufacture', and basically just some unwanted 'non-food' enhancing coatings and whatnot...that would be prudent to remove, before your first Use.
P. Walker
Go watch a video on your question from Cowboy Kent Rollins. He has a great step by step process for seasoning new cast iron. I have two new skillets from Lodge with pre-seasoning. I followed it and my pans are awesome! Good luck
Good video
How much oil do you want to use? And what do you use to buff the pan?
Does the type of oil matter? Does it matter if the oil is old or does it need to be fresh?
Can you still put the pan in the oven if it has a padded handle?
Only if it was sold as being suitable to go in the oven.
I buffed mine up quite like crazy and still nearly set off the smoke alarm. Can you just do the heating in the oven with somewhat lower temperatures but with perhaps longer periods of baking time? If I have to buffer it more than I did, which was a LOT, this will prove to be way too labour intensive. Thanks ~
I’m interested to know my self
It sounds like you might still have a bit too thick an oil layer; maybe try using less oil to start or using a drier part of the towel when you buff to thin out the layer? Depending on how much oil you started with you might need to unfold/refold to expose a dry section multiple times as you buff it out. I personally just touch my finger to the oil to pick up a very small drop of oil and then transfer that to the cloth; it ensures there's less oil to go around from the getgo
I do mine in oven at 375 in middle rack for 20 minutes. Then turn it upside down for another 45 minutes. Let cool replace process two more times at 400 bit stay at 400-425 upside down a hour at a time.
I didn't catch it - did he say what kind of oil to use?
Any. Canola is fine. Or whatever you use at home.
Good video. Thank you for starting out by saying what seasoning is NOT. The Carbon Steel pan lets you see the effect of the seasoning which you cannot see with the cast iron pan. This was very informative. BUT: You did not advise people on how to clean the pans after each use, or how frequently you need to re-apply the seasoning.
they have a video on how to wash the pan, it's available on their website but i'm not sure if it's available on youtube as well
What oil is being used? Olive oil?
Great video! Do you need to season your cast-iron if it comes pre-seasoned? Or should you strip it of its seasonings and re-season it? Also wondering how to wash cast-iron pans afterward, some people say to keep it away from soap and water but I'm not sure how else you're supposed to clean the pan.
The only reason I'd strip off pre-seasoning is if i wanted to sand down the metal to make it more smooth. If you're not bothered by that sort of thing, go ahead and season over the pre-seasoning. It'll work just fine.
As for washing, it's a complete myth that you can't soap seasoned cast iron. The reality is that scrubbing too hard is more likely to take off layers than modern dishwashing liquids. I don't always put my cast iron through soap, since left over oil is nice to use for a seasoning layer after cooking (just pour off the excess oil and wipe any food bits off, give it a buff all around, then shove it in a hot oven). But if something super sticky from the food got really stuck in there, go ahead and soap it. In that situation, soap would actually help because it lets you scrub more gently.
Oh, one last tip - if I got some really sticky stuff in my iron cookware that doesn't wanna come out with boiling water and a brush, I use a chain mail cleaner with hot water. Soap water would be the next 'escalation level' then. If that also fails, baking soda is your friend. But that will definitely eat up a certain amount of the seasoning thus requiring re-seasoning.
When seasoning cast iron on the stovetop, I dont have access to an oven and yes it sucks, do I have to wait for the skillet to cool completely before adding another layer of seasoning?
no, once the oil polymerizes you can add the next coat immediately. In fact, it's preferable to add coats while the pan is still warm/hot. Just be careful not to burn yourself.
Is it ok to apply seasoning with paper towel?
How many times you suggest to season it first time and how many times its last ?
So how do you get the wax coating off of the outside of the pan
Scrubbing it off with salt and a potato (really) is easier in the long run because it's less frustrating.
Mate very informative and great tutorial. Very easy explanation and how to.
I remember seeing those de Buyer carbon steel pans in person. I had doubts about whether that yellow silicone dot they leave on the handle can actually withstand oven use. Does it like melt off over time? I also remember the handles on those feeling like they already had some sort of glaze. Does that mean you don't need to season over the handles?
@kingsmeadowSeasoning also protects from rust. I was asking if the handles on these were already glazed and hence pre-protected from rust. It felt like they were, and if that's so, they wouldn't need seasoning, but I'm not sure.
This line of de Buyer pans (the Mineral B ones) definitely has some sort of plastic coating on the handle. When I tried seasoning it in the oven, it darkened in color and became quite sticky. Maybe my oven was too hot, I'd say generally using them in the oven shouldn't be a problem, but I'd season them on a burner.
According to the de Buyer website, the Mineral B pans are only oven safe for 10 min @ 400 degrees. Not sure how the handles on the pans in this video are not getting messed up. I have several de Buyer pans and I don't put them in the oven to season - I wish I could.
Any special kind of cloth? THis is great!
Cheap cotton dish towel or even paper towels. Don't use synthetic fabric like polyester or microfiber towels or you'll have a mess. You don't want any type of towel that melts.
TimothyNH Lint free towel. Don’t use paper towel when seasoning cast iron. Watch some videos from Cowboy Kent Rollins.
Hey guys, if anyone could help I’d be so appreciative! I’m in the middle of a seasoning project. Started with vegetable oil. Left too much on. Sticky results. Stripped. Started over. Using crisco this time. Currently on my 4th seasoning. No stickiness so that’s good but is it possible to wipe too much off? It’s still grey and matte. Not black and glossy. Is that okay? Am I hoping for the wrong results. I’ve cooked with cast iron. But other people’s. This part, the seasoning part, I really have no experience with. I’ve read a ton but there’s this sort of question which I can’t really find an answer for.
Ok, how many times do you need to repeat the process for an unseasoned pan?
Lyndell I always do 3. Maybe 4 if your only using your oven
Iv'e been following the guidelines from Seriouseats.com of how to season and maintain my pans. Some people may say it's high maintainance with iron pans, but it's probably the most easily maintained pan after non-stick.
I always clean out the pan while it's still hot with soapy water. Put it back on a high flame, rub it with canola oil, buff it thoroughly and then let it sit on a high flame for a couple of minutes. Only took a few months of daily use to be able to do american style omelettes, frittatas etc. with no sticking.
I was told not to put it in the dishwasher or use any type of soap I use hot water and a dish brush or a stainless chainmail for hard to get off food remains.
I use the bbq (with a thermostat) instead of the oven. less heat in the house...unless its winter.
Does he ever mention what oil?
What are you really seasoning the pan with? Several videos recommend putting the pan in a 500 degree oven for 30 minutes to pre-heat. At that temperature, wouldn’t the polymerized coating break down?
In America they use wrong measurements, so 500 f is equal to 260 deg Celsius. And no the oil will break down at around 800 f equal 400-500 deg Celsius
I’m praying someone can finally answer this for me.....can you safely wash an iron skillet with soap and water occasionally? I know you have to keep it dried and oiled but I still am not sure about washing it, even if it’s on rare occasion.
Yes, modern detergents do not have lye. You can use soap safely with a brush or sponge. If something is really caked on, deglaze the pan by boiling a thin layer of water in it and rub off the tough parts with your spatula.
Dan The Man thank you so much!!
I have always used dish detergent and water, no problems!
...or just slowly heat on the range to get the pan hot ... turn the heat up, get screaming hot, and then apply your oil/grease/lard ... wipe it on, wipe it off, 'buff' it out ... heat again until the smoke almost stops, then oil & buff again ... allow to cool & that's it. Takes minutes, and is all that's needed.
I season on the stovetop, or better yet outside on a grill. When the oil smokes, it makes a very smooth hard surface. Other essential to nonstick is to smooth out the cooking surface with a sander or grinder.
What oil should I use? I have coconut and olive in my house.
Neither will work well, flaxseed oil (foodsafe) is generally considered to be the best for seasoning
Flexi Oil expensive than a some casting iron pan!
Flaxseed is best but cost too much. Most people seem to use canola oil (including this video)
first time I seasoned mine it came out perfect. Second time I almost set my house on fire. 🤦🏾♂️
Bro your comment gave me a good laugh. Needed that rn. Happy that your still well! Good thing it didnt start a fire
Hahaha I’m learning at the moment. About to try it. Hopefully it doesn’t happen to me
wow! so sorry to hear that,! ... what went wrong?
I'm just finishing the first try and went well... now I'm afraid to do the 3 or 4 more!
I'll wait till you answer... hopefully soon. 👍 Tks.
@@chrisflynn6036 I'm doing it as I watch this video ....... and have all my windows and doors open and exhaust fans going in hopes that the smoke alarms don't go off. My eyeballs are burning :)
With you on this smh.
It might work like that on a gas burner but my electric flat top will warp a steel pan trying to get the oil to polymeris.
Yes, I agree - electric burners are a whole other animal. I've just given up on using steel and iron cookware on electric burners.
I use my cast iron on my electric stove and I've never had an issue. I don't have a flat top, though, so I dunno.
As a note: De Buyer Mineral B pans are featured here and they are shipped coated with 100% beeswax. You absolutely can start seasoning with that coating and seasoning with beeswax is actually a thing.
de Buyer tells you to remove the beeswax and reseason
@@Tyler-jq6ol They also say one can use it as a seasoning. They go both ways- conventional to start with whatever one prefers and to just start cooking the beeswax. Why would they use expensive beeswax and stamp the symbol on their pans when they're just the same as their other pans delivered with no beeswax? They give two options- use your own, so then remove the beeswax, or go with the beeswax. I've gone both ways and I have beeswax at home and it works pretty well on pans and is a very well-known seasoning method.
I'm having difficulty seasoning. I notice the seasoning is coming off on the handle. I feel like if I don't really get on top of seasoning it right that it's going to rust. It's driving me nuts.
Even if it that's its not too big of a deal. So you can try and experiment. If it rusts, just scour it down completely, removing all previous seasoning, all rust, until you are left with fresh cast iron, and then reseason
Its like a heat-resistant, food-grade plastic.... that is what the polymerization (seasoning) process gives you. Its WONDERFUL!
super easy barely an inconvenience, whos ready for the roaring 20's? 2020!
That's tight. People will love it.
well okay then!
Let's not forget how the roaring 1920's ended.
This comment did not age well.
Ryan, is that you?
Once you cook tomatoe base products you loose the seasoning in pan carbon pans:(
Not if it's a short cook. A quick acidic pan sauce won't dissolve the seasoning. But don't leave acidic things on the seasoning more than a few minutes or you will start to dissolve the seasoning. If you're simmering tomatoes, don't use a seasoned pan! You can use it for everything but those long cook time acidic foods. You can use an unseasoned stainless steel or nonstick-coated or enameled pan for tomato sauce.
A little confusing in the beginning, if my cast iron comes pre-seasoned, you said i'm good to go and i'll "keep maintaining and building up that seasoning". So, i won't ever have to season it?
Does it mean I do something different before I wash the pan, orr?
You never mention what type of oil you were using to season the pants?
You can see it in this shot 3:14 Canola Oil
good vid on seasoning. how do you maintain the seasoning, clean after cooking, etc, etc. do you have to reseason after cleaning or each use?
Wash your pan, dry it very well, and then add a thin layer of oil to maintain your seasoning
i sanded my pan down to a 1200 finish. i guessing im going to have to do this 100 times... it is kinda neat to see my self in a cast iron. im testing to see if it makes any difference if any at all
coady 4570 did it make any difference?
I put it in the oven at 500 for an hour, and never have a problem. Do this several times and you're all set!
Exactly!!!!!! 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
yea but what are you using to season it
Canola oil. You can read the label in a few frames
Don't really understand, why do you want to season? What does it do?
What kind of oil?
Something neutral with a high smoke point, usually vegetable or canola oil.
@@spiralout112 You mean like Crisco? A bottle of Organic Flaxseed came with a Kickstarter CI I supported, got OK results with it BUT the smoke smelled like *burnt rotten fish*!
Grapeseed oil works well!
Seems to me you would want to let the pans cool down before adding another coat of oil, that way you could control exactly the thin oil layer you want to apply. Applying oil on a hot pan, the oil would start polymerizing before you could coat the entire surface and it might even get sticky right then and there because of the heat from the pan
There's a lot of mumbo jumbo and ritual on the internet about seasoning cast iron so thanks for demystifying (and simplifying) the whole "art" of seasoning. I have a newly purchased Griswold #9 gem iron in the oven being seasoned as I write this!
But this is the mumbo jumbo. Seasoning is literally just opening up the pors in the metal so that oil goes into it and thus making it non-stick. You do this after thoroughly washing the pan, and the food can't get lodges into the pors anymore because the oil is trapped there. I didn't know there was a pan seasoning cult, dear lord.
@seriouseats Question (this may just be specific to electric ranges) - when I first got my De Buyer Carbone Plus carbon steel pan I followed a similar seasoning as shown. But after use and a quick rinse, then putting it back on the burner with a light coating of oil at high heat the seasoning burned off. Is this just an electric range thing since they can get so hot?
If the seasoning burns off, the skillet was way too hot. You only need enough heat to be a little over your oil's smoking point. Somewhere beyond 400° Celsius (not Fahrenheit) the seasoning (and everything else) will simply burn to ashes and fall off. That process is called pyrolysis and is used in self cleaning ovens. So make sure never to heat up your skillet that high or you will have to start all over with a new seasoning process.
It can, however, make sense to heat up a new, unseasoned skillet that high to heat treat it. But that requires an open heat source like a gas stove top. In that case you heat up the skillet to the point where it starts to change color from silver to brown, dark blue, light blue and then grayish silver again. If the whole skillet went through that color circle, you turn off the heat, let it cool down for like 15 minutes and give it a wash with mild soap water. Then dry it on the stove top and start the seasoning process of your choice.
The heat treatment creates an iron oxide layer which on top of the seasoning furthermore protects the skillet from rust. The same process is used by manufacturers like DeBuyer (Blue Line) and Lodge (heat treated cast iron series).
Michael needs to make moreeee videos, so enjoyable to watch
Okay, I was having an issue with the little spots on the bottom. Now I know how to fix.
Is that a Wolf E series oven?
It looks exactly like my KitechenAid
Thank you that was very helpful! I am all set!
Thank you for this video.🌼
What if you dropped it in the fryer
Thank you this was great info and I love the format. Well done video.
Won't the handle on the carbon steel melt in the oven?
It take something like 1400 degrees to melt steel
The handle on a carbon steel pan is made out of the same steel as the pan is. No it is not going to melt.
Is that Gearhead's voice?? "These gears just started turning!!"
Is that just a vegetable oil that you’re applying?
Yes
What type of oil did you use? I somehow missed that. Great video though, the length was right and clear.
the bottle says canola
@@glxbe I am embarrassed... thank-you .
Unrelated, but what brand is your jacket? I'm a fan.
Excellent, informative video.