While I love the idea and design of UDT, I like these tiles even more since you can fit them into a small box like that for easy storage and travel. Another great video Professor!
Great stuff! Honestly, the matte medium doesn't really do much for the wash. It's just acrylic resin medium, and rather unnecessary. You can add matte mod podge in and there would be no noticeable difference, as they're both just a matting agent. Add surfactant (dish soap), water, and you're done. For colors, just grab some Daler-Rowney Olive Green, Payne's Gray, and Sepia (or Brown Umber). It gives a MUCH more richer-looking tile than craft paint (and is cheaper than using anything from Citadel), and after all is said and done, you've got awesome stone tiles that match, but which have slight variations in color (as stone tends to have). You can even dab multiple washes on at the same time to increase that effect. Lots of ways to do this, this is just my alternative.
I mix paint colors in very small amounts because there is apparently nothing I hate more than reproducible results. I’ll be sure to try it for these new tiles!
Excellent video and explanation. I've built 6 full sets of modular tiles and these are quite nice. I would humbly suggest that you could skip the black-bomb and make your 'protective layer' by mixing mod-podge with your tan base-coat. Any missed spots will be filled in with the wash. Again, great craft and explanation.
This is a great idea and a fantastic project! When I make my washes (the formula from Jeremy also) I mix it in 8 oz. plastic twist-top bottles, and I have marked on the side some lines for each component in order. It is an idea I borrowed from those salad dressing bottles where you mix your own oil, vinegar and water with a packet of seasonings.. - I also mark how many drops of ink I used to make the color I want. So the information is there at hand every time I need to make more.
They do kind of look like paved roads, but if you mean open land thats more like a battlemap then dungeon tiles. "Ultimat dungoen terrain" would be nice for this just make it green/Yellow/Brown and not so obviously squared 👍
This is perfect!!!! I have a different painting method that works better for me but the construction materials and method are on point. I will be adopting this for my own table. Thank you very much!!!!
Thank you! I concur. Did you see my The Lost City video yet? I collaborated with DM Scotty and It's the best thing I've ever done: ua-cam.com/video/MGeXZcuI3No/v-deo.html
I carry all my D&D stuff in mobile file boxes and was considering making dungeon tiles and terrain suited for storage in such a container. Looks like this is the way to go! Thanks for your videos; you've really inspired me into making my own dungeon terrain.
Awesome video! I have recently started to look into ways to make tiles, including the method of vinyl floor tiles adhered to shelf liner, a method I found from Tabletop Engineer! These look great, I may have to make some of these with some dungeon walls! Thanks for the video! I also loved your Dungeons of IKEA video!
Instead of making a wash, then varnishing, I use Minwax Polyshades Tudor. It's a great blackish tinted varnish (just slightly more brown) for a single wash and varnish in one go. I don't have to worry about trying to reproduce the same colour each time, and it's a single step rather than two. It's also a good shade for the dip method of painting if you are so inclined...
@@zombielandiii2711 The Tudor is my favourite colour by far. I have used Antique Walnut, but it is a brown, and I've not used it for a few years now. I've used this on the UDT, walls, tiles, stairs, and on my out doors generic side of the UDT and tiles. I use the tiles to achieve different elevations on the UDT. The out doors side is sand, painted brown then dry brushed, larger grains are picked out in a grey, then dry brushed. Then I apply the minwax polyshades. Once it dried, I put glue on in patches and add a green turf flock. Once the flock is dry I apply a clear varnish by brush to the flock alone to make it more durable. The result is a muddy surface with patches of vegetation which I find great for a variety of encounters. Think of it as the "devilin mud" of terrain building.
A great project! Super handy. I've been thinking about doing something like this for dungeon crawls; lay out the tiles, let the players map on graph paper if they want, without having to have a back and forth dialogue with described measurements.
LOVE these build videos! Great balance on this channel of game-changing, game-bettering advice for DMs and players plus great, accessible build/crafting projects. Keep 'em coming!
Really nice tiles. I love how you hid the grid. I'm not a grid player but sometimes I think it can be helpful for reference. And I know some people like grids. That is probably the best hiding job for the grid I've seen in any set of tiles.
older video, but if you can get your hands on those vinyl counter cover mats, they have stone textured ones, and you can make a 2'x3' set of tiles, with some foamcore, and one of these cheap (they sometimes have them at dollar store) mats. I used these kinds of tiles when in college, because it just worked well with my budget.
So on these, as I was doing them I put the adhesive onto the paper of the foam board. So, it’s tile - adhesive - peelable paper - foam board. After I left them to cure I got to thinking and couldn’t remember if you peeled off the paper before you glued it to the foam. After seeing you glue it onto the paper I was extremely relieved lol. I crafted up like 12 6x6 rooms, 24 4x4 and a shiiiiit load of hallways
Glue wooden coffee sticks on the other side to make them 2 sided, perfectly to-scale floor boards. Snap them and place in a random staggered pattern for extra dungeon-y effect.
Sweet idea! You can use a Dremel or sharp scribing tool to add some over-enhanced wood grain lines, to give better contours for your wash to settle in.
Thanks for the excellent ideas, Professor! ;) I was wondering about buying some Dwarwen Forge material, but when i see how simple and cheap it is to make some dungeon floors... I don't hesitate anymore!
Awesome. Keeping it simple with 4x4 is really smart and makes it much easier to store. I made myself a set with a variety of sizes, but the truth is, 4x4 is the smallest reasonable room you'll need to build, especially once you've added some decoration. I have 3x3 pieces in my set but it's not worth it. I almost always have to augment them with some other piece to get a useful size. The only pieces I would add to a set like that is some 2x1 and 4x1s. The 2x1 is really useful for depicting a double door or entrance into a chamber, and you can use the other bits for a long thin passage or to expand a room slightly.
Nice choice on the hardwood floors for the kitchen. The click together flooring sold at the big box stores sounds like your walking on luan hard board.
There's a pretty cool turn-based boardgame called Heroscape from Hasbro if you wanna check it out. It's discontinued, but you can get a base set pretty cheap!
We all go with what works best for each of us, with compromises for resources and space. If your gaming group is happy with the way they play, it's perfect.
I really like these the best out of all the DIY tiles I have seen. They will have some weight (biggest downside I see to XPS) but not be too thick. I take it these are the "floating" type of laminate flooring as opposed to the self-stick type? They do see awful thin for "floating" type though? (This is where I intended to post! 😉 they both have Ultimate Dungeon Tiles in the title, must pay more attention to detail).😁
I am a back pack dugeon master. Or at least that's the style I call how I run games. One back pack for the whole game and these are absolutely amazing thank you so much
Awesome looking tiles. My first set I made was just dollar store foam core. Needless to say, they slide all over the place and are slightly bowed due to the moisture warping. ☹️
I find out on some crafting video that you can also add PVA glue to your wash, tried it and it really improves the wash so it doesnt flow out of the brush and out of the thing you are painting.
If using the cheap ReadyBoard, I would peel the paper off of both sides. That paper doesn't hold well and I'd be afraid that the tile would REALLY only be glued to the paper, thus peel off the entire thing eventually.
An update and an option. First, I still adore the tiles. Thank you again Prof! I thought that I would add an option to this design. I found this product on Amazon: tinyurl.com/y54pqkjy This is called "Wooden Dungeon Tiles Gaming Terrain" on Amazon. On their own, these tiles are not a product that I'd strongly recommend. While attractive, they suffer several shortcomings that I noted in my Amazon review. But those shortcomings are fixed by incorporating them with this build, which is what I did. So the steps are: (1) get the big box store samples, (2) cut them to the corresponding sizes, (3) glue foam board paper size down, (4) sand foam down so the height will match your other tiles with the fake wood attached, (4) paint the edges of tile and foam a desired color (I went with craft black paint), (5) glue on wood terrain, (6) spray protective coating (perhaps I should have done this before putting on wood but it doesn't matter too much). One thing I might still do is give the wood a dark wash. The wood is super nice, but it seems almost too clean. A wash would probably remedy that and would take just a moment to do. The advantages of this process is that it is much easier and faster than the tiles I previously made per the Prof's recipe. It cuts out a load of steps and significant sums of effort. It does add some cost, albeit too much for what the product is, but if you have a plastic printer that cost would go down to a buck or two. One step that I still struggled with was cutting the tiles. It's hard to do. I did it better this time with a heavy blade, but I still regard it as difficult and slow. Some type of power saw is recommended. Prof, if you have any insights on this step please share. Thank you.
I love how it looked when you added the dish soap 😅. The wash you made works great. One consideration is adding some flow improver rather than dish soap, I love how it helps the ink flow into the cracks. And, on another note, the very first time I personally saw a wash recipe for black paint, water, and dish soap was on the GW website in the mid 2000s. They also had a second recipe for using glue, water, and ink as they give you varied results. Anyway... love your channel and will continue to share with friends.
I’ve been wondering if there is a way to do something similar with dungeon furnishings (easy, compact, versatile)? (DM Scotty kind of did it with dollar store jenga pieces)
Thought I'd tuned into the wrong channel briefly because the auto-caps made Professor DM say "... today on Dungeon Cr@p" and, if there's one thing I know, this channel ain't cr@p! Anyway, thanks again Professor, quality content as always!
My dungeon terrain is actually 2' sq (with reversible wood grain laminate) on a lazy Susan. These would work well with it. I've tried to make tiles from insulation foam... Boy did that suck. I use the dollar store foam for so many things that I'm really surprised I didn't try this.
You do fun videos,but one build I dont see any of would be....ships for sea adventures/encounters....would love to see those.....like a sea UDT platform,docks,and like I mentioned earlier some sailing ships....cant forget pirates,and coastal raiders in any fantasy settin... go Saltmarsh.
Tip: don’t use vinyl tiles. Mine have warped pretty significantly, otherwise I followed your instructions to a T. I got some cheap vinyl tiles and they have warped pretty hard. It’s a bummer because I was really looking forward to using these. This is my first time crafting terrain. I’m going to try ironing them over a damp towel and then immediately putting them under some weight again for a few days. The first day or so after I finished with the kwik seal, they were flat. After a few days of the kwik seal really curing, I guess the adhesive warped the tiles. I ordered some rubber sheeting off Amazon and I’m going to glue it onto the backside of the tiles to see if it will offset the glue. In reality, I should’ve let them cure under weight for a few days and they probably wouldn’t have warped. If you use vinyl tiles, DO NOT take them out from under the weight until at least 3-4 days
@@josepinto1545 I made 4 large tiles (4x4”), 8 small tiles (2x2”), 4 pillars (1x1x2”), and 4 walls (2x2”). All of those pieces are 1/2” thick except for the pillars. If I were to do it again I’d skip the walls and replace them with more pillars, since the walls were tedious to keep upright at that thin size. I also made some large and small stairs (2x2x2”) & (1x1x2”) but they don’t fit in the 4x4x4” cube.
Hello Professor Dungeon Master, I was re-watching your magic rules and spell casting class videos and i was curious how would you run Paladins and Rangers in one of your games. I've been going back in forth on what to do, but i can't come up with a way that make them feel unique. The best i could come up with is treat them like prestige classes, maybe when the fighter becomes 3rd level instead of taking a martial archetype he swears an oath to find the holy grail (or something similar). Even with that idea however I don't know how to explain where the magic from the smite or other spells come from. Will you please help this confused DM?
Fantastic video. And I'm going to pick some of those up.... As I am also renovating my kitchen...sort of. Also: what the hell, when did you buy a 5e DMG?!?! Also tip: while I am only guessing that the truck liner would be really bad with pet hair, and might be a big bigger than people needs.... I use one of those cupboard liners that you can get at the dollar store. One roll was all I needed for a 2x2ft space
I think this is almost perfect. I love how you can fit all those tiles in a small box and how they can be rearranged for different dungeons. I admit the dedication to do this is noteworthy but I dislike the finished product. I see all those small stones and know many careless people will misplace miniatures off what should be a precise 1 inch square grid. Other careless players will push a mini around and again result in misaligned placement of other miniatures. Now arguments break out about if someone is truly a 5' step away from a full attack sequence. Maybe filling in the 1 inch grid with red lines might make it more clear but then that takes away from the immersion.
You rock sir.I love every single one of your videos.We live in a apartment we have outgrown many years ago so I dont feel I would have any room to store terrain or create it but I enjoy watching and learning just the same. Who taught you how to build these creations or was it trial and error?
Great video and explanation! Quick question, when saying the combo of Liquitex and water should be closer to 60/40, what's the 60? Water or Liquitex? Thanks!
Another awesome video. Now here in OZ I've only been able to obtain black foam and was wondering if I could skip to the tan paint process, or does starting with white foam obtain a different "black" paint undertone?
I've been using 1" Grid graph paper tiles with a double covering of clear plastic laminate (front and back) over this cut piece of graph paper glued to a heavy cardstock backing. My system is equally as cheap but not nearly as durable as your tile system. I like this form of your terrain because it's easily transportable. The spinning round mat board is cool but too hard to transport when you have a bunch of other stuff (like minis, dice, and books) to move as well. The REAL QUESTION now is... when are you going to develop a method of mass-producing these tiles so we, you're loyal followers, can buy a bunch of them and make you rich?
There are a lot of mass-produced options for dungeon tiles you can buy, but as soon as you put profit in the loop, that can price people out of the idea. Often the same people for whom this low-cost method is for.
Sad news (for me, at least) is that I've been to every Lowes and Home Depot in three counties, and it looks like they've all done away with these tiles. They still have samples, but they're thick, rectangular plaquards with the tile on one side. I had to resort to buying 100 3" Wooden Squares from Amazon, but they seem to work well too. So far, so good. 😊
Most people won’t realize the real star of the show, and brilliant move, is the bed liner as a play surface. 👍
Yep! Thanks for the tips, BTW!
That really is a brilliant idea.
The bedliner is a great way to give a nice playing surface and keep the tiles from sliding around, nice!
As a flooring store owner I support using the big box stores free samples ....
Just not buying floor from them.
While I love the idea and design of UDT, I like these tiles even more since you can fit them into a small box like that for easy storage and travel. Another great video Professor!
Yoshira Cool! Pass it along on your Tweeter-thing.
I agree. I'm always traveling to games.
Great stuff! Honestly, the matte medium doesn't really do much for the wash. It's just acrylic resin medium, and rather unnecessary. You can add matte mod podge in and there would be no noticeable difference, as they're both just a matting agent. Add surfactant (dish soap), water, and you're done. For colors, just grab some Daler-Rowney Olive Green, Payne's Gray, and Sepia (or Brown Umber). It gives a MUCH more richer-looking tile than craft paint (and is cheaper than using anything from Citadel), and after all is said and done, you've got awesome stone tiles that match, but which have slight variations in color (as stone tends to have). You can even dab multiple washes on at the same time to increase that effect. Lots of ways to do this, this is just my alternative.
love that smooth segway to the "singing portion" of the video
I've been resisting the craft rabbit hole, I'm really on the edge after this one professor.
By sandwiching the tile backer with foam core, you can make these a nice set of doublesided tiles.
I like this idea, as you could make the other side wood like with a one and wire brush. Then use a brown or tan wash.
I mix paint colors in very small amounts because there is apparently nothing I hate more than reproducible results.
I’ll be sure to try it for these new tiles!
So this is the Snake terrain.
Solid, gorgeous, fits in a box.
Hello Nick Robinson fan
Excellent video and explanation. I've built 6 full sets of modular tiles and these are quite nice. I would humbly suggest that you could skip the black-bomb and make your 'protective layer' by mixing mod-podge with your tan base-coat. Any missed spots will be filled in with the wash. Again, great craft and explanation.
Great tutorial professor. I like that they fit in the box. Specially liked that little reference to the Rolling Stones.
This is a great idea and a fantastic project! When I make my washes (the formula from Jeremy also) I mix it in 8 oz. plastic twist-top bottles, and I have marked on the side some lines for each component in order. It is an idea I borrowed from those salad dressing bottles where you mix your own oil, vinegar and water with a packet of seasonings..
-
I also mark how many drops of ink I used to make the color I want. So the information is there at hand every time I need to make more.
Oh! Put a small (10-12mm) marble or ball bearing in the bottle to act as an agitator for keeping things mixed before each use. Forgot that part.
City streets and sewers now on my agenda! In a sacred steampunked case!
Min-Max terrain build there. Getting the most from your materials and hobby time. Very impressive.
Would love to see a video doing something like this that would work for wilderness encounters
James Lowery hmmmmm.....thinking......
@@DUNGEONCRAFT1 I imagine you could do a lot with a few dirt/grass path tiles and some bushes or trees. I know I'd certainly get use out of them
They do kind of look like paved roads, but if you mean open land thats more like a battlemap then dungeon tiles.
"Ultimat dungoen terrain" would be nice for this just make it green/Yellow/Brown and not so obviously squared 👍
Step 1: Buy a copy of Battlemasters. Step 2: Roll out 10'x10' battle mat. Step 3: Profit!
Yes! As in swamp, grass, dirt paths or sand.
This is perfect!!!! I have a different painting method that works better for me but the construction materials and method are on point. I will be adopting this for my own table. Thank you very much!!!!
Thank you! I concur. Did you see my The Lost City video yet? I collaborated with DM Scotty and It's the best thing I've ever done: ua-cam.com/video/MGeXZcuI3No/v-deo.html
I carry all my D&D stuff in mobile file boxes and was considering making dungeon tiles and terrain suited for storage in such a container. Looks like this is the way to go! Thanks for your videos; you've really inspired me into making my own dungeon terrain.
Awesome video!
I have recently started to look into ways to make tiles, including the method of vinyl floor tiles adhered to shelf liner, a method I found from Tabletop Engineer!
These look great, I may have to make some of these with some dungeon walls!
Thanks for the video! I also loved your Dungeons of IKEA video!
I spent last weekend hanging with him. Jim is a great guy.
Instead of making a wash, then varnishing, I use Minwax Polyshades Tudor. It's a great blackish tinted varnish (just slightly more brown) for a single wash and varnish in one go. I don't have to worry about trying to reproduce the same colour each time, and it's a single step rather than two. It's also a good shade for the dip method of painting if you are so inclined...
Interesting... Any experience with it? Tiles, walls? A couple of colors exist, what color do you recommend? Thanks.
@@zombielandiii2711 The Tudor is my favourite colour by far. I have used Antique Walnut, but it is a brown, and I've not used it for a few years now.
I've used this on the UDT, walls, tiles, stairs, and on my out doors generic side of the UDT and tiles. I use the tiles to achieve different elevations on the UDT. The out doors side is sand, painted brown then dry brushed, larger grains are picked out in a grey, then dry brushed. Then I apply the minwax polyshades. Once it dried, I put glue on in patches and add a green turf flock. Once the flock is dry I apply a clear varnish by brush to the flock alone to make it more durable. The result is a muddy surface with patches of vegetation which I find great for a variety of encounters.
Think of it as the "devilin mud" of terrain building.
@@kericmason Thanks for the answer. I have to try it sometime as it sounds interesting. 👍🏻
A great project! Super handy. I've been thinking about doing something like this for dungeon crawls; lay out the tiles, let the players map on graph paper if they want, without having to have a back and forth dialogue with described measurements.
LOVE these build videos! Great balance on this channel of game-changing, game-bettering advice for DMs and players plus great, accessible build/crafting projects. Keep 'em coming!
Really nice tiles. I love how you hid the grid. I'm not a grid player but sometimes I think it can be helpful for reference. And I know some people like grids. That is probably the best hiding job for the grid I've seen in any set of tiles.
Thanks. I thought it was a nice compromise.
This all I ever wanted in dungeon tiles. Terrific Professor! Thx!
older video, but if you can get your hands on those vinyl counter cover mats, they have stone textured ones, and you can make a 2'x3' set of tiles, with some foamcore, and one of these cheap (they sometimes have them at dollar store) mats. I used these kinds of tiles when in college, because it just worked well with my budget.
Great idea!
So on these, as I was doing them I put the adhesive onto the paper of the foam board. So, it’s tile - adhesive - peelable paper - foam board. After I left them to cure I got to thinking and couldn’t remember if you peeled off the paper before you glued it to the foam. After seeing you glue it onto the paper I was extremely relieved lol. I crafted up like 12 6x6 rooms, 24 4x4 and a shiiiiit load of hallways
Have to admit your version of "Painted Black" made me laugh.
Agreed! 🤣
I see the dice roll by flung from murder hobos
I have to hang my head as party dankness grows
Nice pipes!
Made some of these tiles. Especially excited about the recommended adhesive. I think they turned out pretty good!
Well done Dan. I like the weight of these tiles as well.
Very convenient use of the reaper mini box. Now I know what to use mine for!
You are so awesome! These are my favorite type of videos you do: the ones where you make things
Glue wooden coffee sticks on the other side to make them 2 sided, perfectly to-scale floor boards. Snap them and place in a random staggered pattern for extra dungeon-y effect.
Sweet idea! You can use a Dremel or sharp scribing tool to add some over-enhanced wood grain lines, to give better contours for your wash to settle in.
@@MonkeyJedi99 Try a wire brush
@@EnDungeoned Wire brushes work well on foam, but I've had poor registration of detail with a wire brush on (non-balsa) wood.
@@MonkeyJedi99 I've used them to good effect on coffee sticks myself. Fair enough
Thanks for the excellent ideas, Professor! ;) I was wondering about buying some Dwarwen Forge material, but when i see how simple and cheap it is to make some dungeon floors... I don't hesitate anymore!
I've been experimenting with clear vinyl. I plan on sharing some images on the Facebook page, soon.
I have some images up on the Facebook page.
Wow this is great! I appreciate it being all in one video and not a goose chase for things like the wash.
Awesome. Keeping it simple with 4x4 is really smart and makes it much easier to store.
I made myself a set with a variety of sizes, but the truth is, 4x4 is the smallest reasonable room you'll need to build, especially once you've added some decoration. I have 3x3 pieces in my set but it's not worth it. I almost always have to augment them with some other piece to get a useful size.
The only pieces I would add to a set like that is some 2x1 and 4x1s. The 2x1 is really useful for depicting a double door or entrance into a chamber, and you can use the other bits for a long thin passage or to expand a room slightly.
Nice choice on the hardwood floors for the kitchen. The click together flooring sold at the big box stores sounds like your walking on luan hard board.
I really like the look of these.
Damn these look super easy to make! Thanks for doing the research on the cheapest and best materials Professor!
There's a pretty cool turn-based boardgame called Heroscape from Hasbro if you wanna check it out. It's discontinued, but you can get a base set pretty cheap!
Good looking stuff if you play on hexes. Cool tip!
@@MonkeyJedi99 The game is seriously underrated, glad to help you discover it!
Great episode! I think I'll try these tiles.
Professor D, rocking the dungeon tile floors!
I love minis and terrain pieces, but we've really starting doing more theater of the mind style of play
We all go with what works best for each of us, with compromises for resources and space. If your gaming group is happy with the way they play, it's perfect.
I really like these the best out of all the DIY tiles I have seen. They will have some weight (biggest downside I see to XPS) but not be too thick. I take it these are the "floating" type of laminate flooring as opposed to the self-stick type? They do see awful thin for "floating" type though? (This is where I intended to post! 😉 they both have Ultimate Dungeon Tiles in the title, must pay more attention to detail).😁
Can't believe you pulled this one off! Well done! I might start doing a tile or two next month! Thanks for posting this brilliant vid DM.
Great as always and your neck tie is on point!
I am a back pack dugeon master. Or at least that's the style I call how I run games. One back pack for the whole game and these are absolutely amazing thank you so much
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
I prefer the UDT, but this is a nice alternative for a convention set of tiles. Cookie for the metric
Good video. If tiles are your thing, these look as good as any I've seen. Cheers!!
Someone at our Lowe's must have been watching this video, because every one of their tile samples is cut at 3-1/4" 😂
Lol. Probably.
Awesome looking tiles. My first set I made was just dollar store foam core. Needless to say, they slide all over the place and are slightly bowed due to the moisture warping. ☹️
this is great for homeschooling craft idea with an actual use case after!
Another great video - thanks - love a new simple tile technique and wash
I find out on some crafting video that you can also add PVA glue to your wash, tried it and it really improves the wash so it doesnt flow out of the brush and out of the thing you are painting.
I like it, simple and portable. Thanks for sharing.
Great looking! Nice stones reference.
Nice tile option. Thanks for sharing.
Nice terrain, nice singing!
If using the cheap ReadyBoard, I would peel the paper off of both sides. That paper doesn't hold well and I'd be afraid that the tile would REALLY only be glued to the paper, thus peel off the entire thing eventually.
I really love all your crafts. Hope you can do more crafts soon. 🤟🏻
I Thought about doing this... I was going to prepare a video on this... nice work
An update and an option. First, I still adore the tiles. Thank you again Prof!
I thought that I would add an option to this design. I found this product on Amazon: tinyurl.com/y54pqkjy This is called "Wooden Dungeon Tiles Gaming Terrain" on Amazon. On their own, these tiles are not a product that I'd strongly recommend. While attractive, they suffer several shortcomings that I noted in my Amazon review. But those shortcomings are fixed by incorporating them with this build, which is what I did.
So the steps are: (1) get the big box store samples, (2) cut them to the corresponding sizes, (3) glue foam board paper size down, (4) sand foam down so the height will match your other tiles with the fake wood attached, (4) paint the edges of tile and foam a desired color (I went with craft black paint), (5) glue on wood terrain, (6) spray protective coating (perhaps I should have done this before putting on wood but it doesn't matter too much).
One thing I might still do is give the wood a dark wash. The wood is super nice, but it seems almost too clean. A wash would probably remedy that and would take just a moment to do.
The advantages of this process is that it is much easier and faster than the tiles I previously made per the Prof's recipe. It cuts out a load of steps and significant sums of effort. It does add some cost, albeit too much for what the product is, but if you have a plastic printer that cost would go down to a buck or two.
One step that I still struggled with was cutting the tiles. It's hard to do. I did it better this time with a heavy blade, but I still regard it as difficult and slow. Some type of power saw is recommended. Prof, if you have any insights on this step please share. Thank you.
I love how it looked when you added the dish soap 😅. The wash you made works great. One consideration is adding some flow improver rather than dish soap, I love how it helps the ink flow into the cracks. And, on another note, the very first time I personally saw a wash recipe for black paint, water, and dish soap was on the GW website in the mid 2000s. They also had a second recipe for using glue, water, and ink as they give you varied results. Anyway... love your channel and will continue to share with friends.
new floor looks nice!
Paint It Black was fun, but you missed out on singing, "Baking rocks in the hot sun" for a Clash tribute.
Those are some cool tiles.
I’ve been wondering if there is a way to do something similar with dungeon furnishings (easy, compact, versatile)? (DM Scotty kind of did it with dollar store jenga pieces)
Thought I'd tuned into the wrong channel briefly because the auto-caps made Professor DM say "... today on Dungeon Cr@p" and, if there's one thing I know, this channel ain't cr@p!
Anyway, thanks again Professor, quality content as always!
I keep my washes in cheap condiment bottles at the dollar store and they've kept for over a year no problem.
I also add a small marble that fits into the bottle to agitate the ingredients before each use, inspired by spray paint cans.
Always love the crafting videos. Good job PDM!
I like the new wash recipe!
The round stones idea is great, but I would add round stones on the edges of the tiles, because the edges are straight.
Nice dungeon tie.
Awesome stuff man just leaving a comment to help you beat the algorithm
Excellent, more crafting please!
My dungeon terrain is actually 2' sq (with reversible wood grain laminate) on a lazy Susan. These would work well with it. I've tried to make tiles from insulation foam... Boy did that suck. I use the dollar store foam for so many things that I'm really surprised I didn't try this.
Smooth as always.. Way to go Prof!
Looking forward to the new UDT video!
I feel like PDM should start an ultimate dungeon terrain online store with how many variants there are.
You do fun videos,but one build I dont see any of would be....ships for sea adventures/encounters....would love to see those.....like a sea UDT platform,docks,and like I mentioned earlier some sailing ships....cant forget pirates,and coastal raiders in any fantasy settin... go Saltmarsh.
Yes please do the wooden floor boards video!!!
These look great and would be super durable.
But 5 dislikes? Seriously?
Professor Dungeon Master on the 1s & 2s
Tip: don’t use vinyl tiles. Mine have warped pretty significantly, otherwise I followed your instructions to a T. I got some cheap vinyl tiles and they have warped pretty hard. It’s a bummer because I was really looking forward to using these. This is my first time crafting terrain. I’m going to try ironing them over a damp towel and then immediately putting them under some weight again for a few days. The first day or so after I finished with the kwik seal, they were flat. After a few days of the kwik seal really curing, I guess the adhesive warped the tiles. I ordered some rubber sheeting off Amazon and I’m going to glue it onto the backside of the tiles to see if it will offset the glue. In reality, I should’ve let them cure under weight for a few days and they probably wouldn’t have warped. If you use vinyl tiles, DO NOT take them out from under the weight until at least 3-4 days
Thank you for stopping me from trying the same thing.
How about a link in the description for your video on how to make those neat lil doors & archways?
The algorithm must be fed!
The algorithm's hunger can never be satiated!
Might have to try this I'm tired of drawing maps
2:25 Do people actually play by counting out the spaces and moving the minis as if they were chess pieces?
This explains so much.
Yup I play that way
Wood tiles video, please. :)
I‘d go a bit easier on the round stone outlines than on the 1“ grid lines.
You have exposed my secret sir! ive been doing this for years! lol
Sorry.
I just finished a set of “dungeon-in-a-box” style tiles that all stack into a 4x4 cube the other day! Great minds something something ;p
How many pieces and sizes did you made? I'm trying to make my own set, but I'm not sure how many I will need it.
@@josepinto1545 I made 4 large tiles (4x4”), 8 small tiles (2x2”), 4 pillars (1x1x2”), and 4 walls (2x2”). All of those pieces are 1/2” thick except for the pillars. If I were to do it again I’d skip the walls and replace them with more pillars, since the walls were tedious to keep upright at that thin size. I also made some large and small stairs (2x2x2”) & (1x1x2”) but they don’t fit in the 4x4x4” cube.
Hello Professor Dungeon Master, I was re-watching your magic rules and spell casting class videos and i was curious how would you run Paladins and Rangers in one of your games. I've been going back in forth on what to do, but i can't come up with a way that make them feel unique. The best i could come up with is treat them like prestige classes, maybe when the fighter becomes 3rd level instead of taking a martial archetype he swears an oath to find the holy grail (or something similar). Even with that idea however I don't know how to explain where the magic from the smite or other spells come from. Will you please help this confused DM?
Fantastic video. And I'm going to pick some of those up.... As I am also renovating my kitchen...sort of.
Also: what the hell, when did you buy a 5e DMG?!?!
Also tip: while I am only guessing that the truck liner would be really bad with pet hair, and might be a big bigger than people needs.... I use one of those cupboard liners that you can get at the dollar store. One roll was all I needed for a 2x2ft space
I think this is almost perfect. I love how you can fit all those tiles in a small box and how they can be rearranged for different dungeons. I admit the dedication to do this is noteworthy but I dislike the finished product. I see all those small stones and know many careless people will misplace miniatures off what should be a precise 1 inch square grid. Other careless players will push a mini around and again result in misaligned placement of other miniatures. Now arguments break out about if someone is truly a 5' step away from a full attack sequence. Maybe filling in the 1 inch grid with red lines might make it more clear but then that takes away from the immersion.
You rock sir.I love every single one of your videos.We live in a apartment we have outgrown many years ago so I dont feel I would have any room to store terrain or create it but I enjoy watching and learning just the same. Who taught you how to build these creations or was it trial and error?
Great video and explanation! Quick question, when saying the combo of Liquitex and water should be closer to 60/40, what's the 60? Water or Liquitex? Thanks!
some of the best tiles
Another awesome video.
Now here in OZ I've only been able to obtain black foam and was wondering if I could skip to the tan paint process, or does starting with white foam obtain a different "black" paint undertone?
I've been using 1" Grid graph paper tiles with a double covering of clear plastic laminate (front and back) over this cut piece of graph paper glued to a heavy cardstock backing. My system is equally as cheap but not nearly as durable as your tile system. I like this form of your terrain because it's easily transportable. The spinning round mat board is cool but too hard to transport when you have a bunch of other stuff (like minis, dice, and books) to move as well.
The REAL QUESTION now is... when are you going to develop a method of mass-producing these tiles so we, you're loyal followers, can buy a bunch of them and make you rich?
There are a lot of mass-produced options for dungeon tiles you can buy, but as soon as you put profit in the loop, that can price people out of the idea. Often the same people for whom this low-cost method is for.
Sad news (for me, at least) is that I've been to every Lowes and Home Depot in three counties, and it looks like they've all done away with these tiles.
They still have samples, but they're thick, rectangular plaquards with the tile on one side.
I had to resort to buying 100 3" Wooden Squares from Amazon, but they seem to work well too. So far, so good. 😊