You can do as I did with both wheels off or snug everything down then lower on ground and then fully tighten everything down with it on ground under load. Control arm bushings are most important to tighte under a load, well any bushings really
Wow, can't believe how nice those rims are. Totally rust free. You just don't find them that nice in the New England area. Amazing how much corrosion damage salt on the roads does.
Dang those salted roads! Bummer they still use that in places. Horrible for the lifespan of cars and trucks. Although some of rust proofing coating has got better with time on newer cars, but not always the case. Yeah pretty spoiled for the rust here, but I do get a little bit of salt in the air where I live now I think since I'm not too far from coast
Get some locking vice grip pliers and squeeze them on as hard as can on the area behind the nut to prevent from spinning when trying to remove. Last case scenario yeah you can grind off the nut/shaft 👍
Question guys I hear a loud clunking noise when I’m stopped and I turn its coming from the driver side suspension idk if it’s the sway bar or suspension? What do I look for ?
Yeah it wouldn't hurt. I never had a problem doing it that way, but you're right some you have to do it on ground or at least have suspension loaded. Usually when the sway bars use bushings.
Lol. Every single Allen key hole stripped on me and the nuts were a b*tch to move. I’m going to have to cut or grind them out. What a ridiculous design.
Ohh mann sorry to hear. Yeah I liked the design of the replacements I put on. Could try using an impact wrench on them. Or maybe grind a slit in the allen head with angle grinder cutoff disc then you could put a big flathead in to hold. Hit is with some wd40 or similar overnight too
Straight to the point. Well done.
Thank you, happy to help 👍
Thanks for the video. Should the wheels level on ground or lifted off ground when installing the link?
You can do as I did with both wheels off or snug everything down then lower on ground and then fully tighten everything down with it on ground under load. Control arm bushings are most important to tighte under a load, well any bushings really
Thanks looks pretty straight forward. Appreciate you keeping it efficient
you're welcome 👍🏻 yeah it's not bad at all
Excellent, you made it so easy
Glad I could help👍
Wow, can't believe how nice those rims are. Totally rust free. You just don't find them that nice in the New England area. Amazing how much corrosion damage salt on the roads does.
Dang those salted roads! Bummer they still use that in places. Horrible for the lifespan of cars and trucks. Although some of rust proofing coating has got better with time on newer cars, but not always the case. Yeah pretty spoiled for the rust here, but I do get a little bit of salt in the air where I live now I think since I'm not too far from coast
Hey Jonny! I was attempting this, but the allen part got stripped. Any recommendations? I'm planning on drilling it out or angle grinding.
Get some locking vice grip pliers and squeeze them on as hard as can on the area behind the nut to prevent from spinning when trying to remove. Last case scenario yeah you can grind off the nut/shaft 👍
Thanks for yourvideo to help me.
You're welcome, glad to help 👍
Question guys I hear a loud clunking noise when I’m stopped and I turn its coming from the driver side suspension idk if it’s the sway bar or suspension? What do I look for ?
Yes Id check sway bars, control arms, strut mounts and struts. Also check the steering rack and tie rod ends.
So the end links don't need to be torqued while vehicle is on the ground? most vehicles I've done need to be. just wondering.
Yeah it wouldn't hurt. I never had a problem doing it that way, but you're right some you have to do it on ground or at least have suspension loaded. Usually when the sway bars use bushings.
@@JonnyDIY Thanks! Doing them tomorrow on my RX 330
Is there a small Allen needed for the bottom bolt as well?
Yes I show at 0:44 you need to hold allen while you loosen or tighten. I think the new ones I didnt have to
@@JonnyDIY thanks.
Subbed. Good video
@@Farmer3190 thanks for subbing, happy I could help 🙌👍
Thanks man !
Youre welcome! 👍🏻
Are the Moogs better that the oem 🤔
OEM is best, I would get OEM if they're not outrageously overpriced over these. If getting Moog parts, always get the high end ones though 👍
NO! Only buy OEM! OEM is only about $80 for front and rears.
Lol. Every single Allen key hole stripped on me and the nuts were a b*tch to move. I’m going to have to cut or grind them out. What a ridiculous design.
Ohh mann sorry to hear. Yeah I liked the design of the replacements I put on. Could try using an impact wrench on them. Or maybe grind a slit in the allen head with angle grinder cutoff disc then you could put a big flathead in to hold. Hit is with some wd40 or similar overnight too
I used a torch. Heat worked ber good