*Answers to common questions I get* YES, the guide pins were cleaned and lubed up with the supplied lube that powerstop provides All the new hardware they included was used - boot, shims, lube, This video shows the Front passenger side wheel. Each side was installed based on powerstop instructions. Here is their video for reference ua-cam.com/video/krLOy90KrvY/v-deo.html In this video the front of my car is facing to the right. My car has drums in the back, not rotors. Yes, I really did in fact have several friend stand at 2 different 3 way intersections so they could warn cars adjacent to my direction to hold up for just a moment as I came through that spot so I could preform the bed in procedure. The bed in procedure was preformed the way the info on the box said to do. When I switched over to Akebono pro act ultra premium ceramic pads the issues I had immediately went away. The pads and rotors came from amazon. Powerstop reached out to me, and ultimately I did get a replacement set of pads and rotors, however I decided to not use them, and they sit in a box in my garage unused. Powerstop refused to discuss what their pads were made of, as they wish to retain their proprietary forumalation of their pads as an industry secret.
Sounds like a binding caliper issue, maybe they didn't compress correctly or Flex-Line internal collapsing issue? I'm always looking to learn something new, How did you make out with your new pads? BTW, I never heard of peanut butter brakes, what the jelly are you talking about. Lol
Get Brake disc and brake pads with ECE R90 certification. It has R90-xxxxx numbers on the parts that had been tested and approved by EU. Unfortunately, we do not have regulation in USA for minimum standard for brake parts.
I've installed PowerStop slotted rotors and Z23 pads on three cars now (G37, Q70 and MKZ) and haven't had the slightest bit of problem with any of them. Worked great and outlasted the stock setup on all three vehicles. Probably going to put their non-slotted coated rotors and Z23 pads on my wife's Santa Fe Ultimate soon.
Have used the Z23 with slotted/drilled rotors on my 13 Lincoln MKX and they work great. Put the Z26 pads on my 2013 Mustang Boss 302 for a track day and they were excellent....hard braking and no fade whatsoever. And I just put them on the rears of my 11 Shelby GT500 and no issues so far. I think the break in procedure is crucial to success. I plan to buy them when the time comes for the front on my Shelby.
Because there are many people who have the opposite experience as me, this might be a good opportunity to gather large amounts of data from many people to see just how common or uncommon problems are with this set up. In the video there is a poll you can vote on. Have you had any issues with your PowerStop Rotors and Pads *No - The product works as advertised *Yes - The product does not work as advertised (usually this means its a problem that qualifies for a warranty replacement)
I am a Bangladeshi, I like your work very much .... I am learning the work of car engine in Bangladesh, I really want to make a living by working with good and skilled teachers like you.
I brought this exact brake kit (rotors and pads) and I have found that after extensive driving and the heat being aggressive, my car has a bit of a problem stopping. It's like the brakes slip a bit and the braking is not strong enough. However, when it's raining, they work beautiful. They have stronger braking power.
thank you for this video i went trough a set and i was assuming it was my driving methods. Good thing it was only one of my vehicles that had that type pads.... never again... Thank You.
I know this is a 2 year old comment, but in my 1 hour of research it's clearly advertised as being "softer" do to the carbon fiber mix, and meant to bite better under high temp braking applications. It will feel mushy at lower temps because the material is softer.
Never had any issues with them on my Crown Vic, VW Golf, Camry, or Town and Country. You can't attribute uneven wear to pads unless you replaced the guide pins, bushings, etc. They've been good and solid longevity in stop and go.
This is the comment I am looking for. Joe with the wrench and camera can say whatever they want. I like how he brings up coefficient of friction yet does not think about heat, did he break them in, has he changed his fluid ever?
I installed these z23 pads on my Corolla with the duralast gold high carbon coated rotors and have never had any problems they work great. Of course I used the duralast gold high carbon rotors cuz I do not like the drilled and slotted rotors at all (especially cheap ones) they just eat up the pads and are harsh and make too much noise and the high carbon content in the duralast gold rotors greatly helps dissipate heat and resists warping and hot spots, and no matter what I replace ALL the hardware included the guide pins and caliper mounting bolts and all other hardware and properly clean and lube everything whether it needs it or not I believe in spending the extra money to ensure perfection and of course I find a smooth deserted open road and follow the break in procedure perfectly to the letter. And I also torque all caliper hardware to the proper torque specs I don't just tighten things with a socket wrench like most people but then again I'm a Certified ASE tech with a degree in automotive technology and I'm a manager at a service facility so I firmly believe in spending the time and money to do the job flawlessly or I just don't do it at all.
I have an 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. These Jeeps are notorious for eating brakes. I put this Powerstop kit on almost 2 years ago and I still have over 2/3 of the pad left. They bite well and I have been shimmy free for 2 years. Great product!
I had same issue for my land rover I followed the bed in procedure too. The pads disintegrated after 150 mile trip. Sad I used to like them. Ended up akebono too. I went with centric rotors anti rust too. Been amazing since.
@unknowndestinyfabrication3872 agreed. Don't disregard the other reviews. If I listened to this guy I wouldn't have pulled the trigger. I went by hundreds of other positive reviews and bought the z23 kit for my 5th gen 2SS. Let me tell you I will buy nothing else except powerstop from now on. I am beyond happy with them.
Did you remember to clean and lube the caliper slides and lube the hardware where the pads ride in the caliper bracket? So many details to go over to isolate where the problem may be.
I was looking at replacing my stock factory front discs with the new Z26 kit , it includes the calipers, if your going to upgrade brakes, do it correctly and don't cut corners. The Wilwood kit is way to expensive and I will have to do some cutting on the wheel spindles. Talked to Power Stop customer service and Chris who I spoke with is extremely knowledgeable and helpful.. I'm taking this review with a grain of salt and still ordering the Z26 kit for my 1995 S10.
He needed new calipers plus more cleaning fluid all over his job, I would use Lucas extreme caliper grease for the pins. Remember to clean the rotors twice with brake cleaner and rags, three times is the charm.
Run same kit on an escape, installed last year and was great and still great. Finally have gone longer then a year with out brake warp with these and that last pad/rotor combo was Raybestos. That looks like they were over heated. Seen this on highway rigs. More to this then meets the eye.
Thanks for the video. I've always used EBC on my car and when I switched to the Z23 I noticed my pedal was spongy. I've had them for 3 months now and it's still spongy. I don't like how it feels at all. It feels like a battle from an old van. I will have my pads inspected.
Update: contacted Power Stop and they sent me a new pair. I had them replaced and these feel much better. I still feel that Ebc have better feel and more grip but the new set I got is better than a motorcraft set. They're not dusty. They stop better when they're hotter. Since I didn't use the car after the first set it is undeterminable if they have the same condition as the ones in the video, but the pedal feel and performance noticeably improved with the new set.
I reccomend axxis metal master pads for regular street driven cars for safe stopping, but for aggressive street pads i highly reccomend axxis altimates or now under the brand PBR euro pads, best aggressive street pad you want to run on the street, great cold bite, and as they get warmer they bite harder, the initial bite is always good even in the cold but not too aggressive where it feels like on off, smooth but aggressive, although they do dust alot the dust isn't corrosive and easily washed off, and the prices are soo good compared to other pads it's a no brainer
I JUST HAD THE EXACT SAME ISSUE WITH A 2016 ACCORD EX-L V6. I CANT BELIEVE YOU GOT THAT MANY MILES OUT OF THEM. After installation, I followed the bed-in procedure. I was less-than impressed with the so-called upgrade in braking performance. I looked at the rotors (keep in mind this is with less than 10 miles on them) and noticed some scoring. The next day, I removed the wheels and examined the pads. To my surprise, I noticed what I considered to be an extreme amount of pitting in the friction material. My pads were more unevenly worn and worsely pitted than the ones in this video, AND WITH LESS THAN 20 MILES ON THEM. I purchased the K6516 kit from Summit Racing which included rotors and pads (and hardware) for all four corners of my Accord. The rotors are what grabbed my attention, and I thought they would look rather nice behind my 19" Alutecs. Total price was $326 (free shipping) which I thought was a good deal. I was skeptical, but kept an open mind. After a mere day and a half of frustration, I replaced the pads with Genuine Honda ceramic pads and have never been happier. I've got to see if I can some sort of refund for these junk pads.
I installed a set of these on an Toyota FRS about a year ago, and a Ford Fusion less than a week ago. Both set are working out great. Sorry to hear your having issues.
I used the Z26 all four wheel brake kit on my 2016 BMW 528xi and I love them. Replaced in April 2021till now w/5000 miles on them. No problem whatsoever.
First thing to check is the guide pins. Make sure your calipers move on the pins easily. If they don’t, you need new pins and bushings. Pulling to one side? Replace the flexible hoses. Hoses will deteriorate, and while you might not see it, they’ll increase in diameter. The more pressure you put on the pedal, the more the hose opens up, and less fluid entering your caliper, while others operate properly. Worn or sticking guide pins can cause this too. That’s two common problems people overlook when doing brakes. Pads wearing funny from the top of the pad to the bottom would indicate a wheel bearing issue. If the vehicle has flange bearings, the easy way to check is drive it, and if you notice noise, like a rumbling noise, or you feel vibration in the steering wheel as you go around turns or do a quick lane change, it’s your bearings. Look over EVERYTHING when you do a brake job. The rotor is mounted to a bearing. The pads are mounted to a caliper that’s supposed to be able to move easily, AND the brake hoses need to remain firm for everything to work like they should. Just seeing what you’ve shown tells me you have more wrong than just pads and rotors. If your mechanic couldn’t see that, you need to find a new mechanic.
Pads were overheated so pulling was either sticking slide pins/piston or line collapsing. Very rare but I've seen rubber lines act like a check valve when collapsed. Lines swelling though may affect pedal feel but unlikely to notice pulling.
I’ve used akebono and they always worked great. I used Wagner last time on my Tacoma and they are ok but don’t stop as fast as the factory akebono. They work fine overall but I was towing a trailer down a mountain yesterday and had a brake fade issue 2/3 down the mountain. I’m looking into putting drilled rotors and maybe Brembo,akebono premium or maybe hawk but never heard of them. I looked into power stop but if they are made in China I’ll pass.
I just put a set of the drilled/slotted rotors with z16 pads on my LR4 and was already looking to bump up to the Z23s because I don't wanna put too much wear on the new rotors. Now I have to think twice
I swapped from oem to these since I tow in the mountains. I noticed a softer pedal after new install. I will say you are correct with the heat. I think with the carbon in there. They perform better after ya heat them up. So for daily driving I think it’s a more advanced user pad. I didn’t have the pad melting on there like you did. But they definitely need more heat than average
We install powerstop professionally and have never had an issue like this thankfully. We use their standard coated rotors and the non carbon pads so I can't really help. I will say they have the nicest fit and finish of any major brand and perform better also. And they are made in China but are re-speced in the us not just straight in the box. Best product we use tbh
@@dallasray3223 we get amazing performance from the z17 pads and standard Geomet coated rotors. Cross drilled rotors have less surface area and less stopping power in my opinion. I guess if you are pulling a trailer on a massive downgrade the heat may get to ya but properly clean fluid makes a big difference in boiling temp. Hope this helps
@@dallasray3223 I should also stress we sand blast the caliper brackets, lube both sides of the hardware, remove old grease from the slide pin bores, clean the hub surface and lube the Piston face as our normal service. It's how I've always done it and powerstop pulls way ahead of others as far as comebacks
I haven't had an issue with them on my Mazda Speed6, I replaced to OEM pads with these and never looked back. Bye bye to almost all break dust (The OEM pads were HORRIBLE with this) and there was no noise. Put them on the wife's car too and no issues. The only pads I did have issues with were when I decided to not use these. About to put the same Z23s on my GS350. Without know how you drive daily and seeing how you actually broke these in, it's hard to denounce the entire manufacture after *ONE* bad experience. I've had multiple good ones though. I feel like I'll have another. I have a closed road I can do my break in on, so I can truly do it as described, but I figure it would be hard to pull it off anywhere else. This also could just be a defective set of pads. No manufacture has 100% success with them. Did you try going back to Power Stop with them?
Same problem here , took me over a month to get a replacement ,new brakes are doing the same thing , brakes seem to be sticking , I’ve bled out the whole brake system , broke them in as the company recommended and still garbage
my powerstop Z17's that I just purchased grind when I brake.. I've tried going through a break-in period but 500 miles later, still grinds... I'm going to be swapping them out. Enough is enough.
Thank you for this I bought these and thought I was crazy or that my calipers where bad because its so bad.after changing brakes usually the peddle raises up and becomes firm these don't.
Im on my second set of powerstops. Eventually worn, no issues. You got a flawes product. Possible counterfeit? Did you buy them from powerstop directly? This is kind of alarming
I got a set of these that were supposed to fit my 2003 Neon but, they are too thick. What should I do? It is an SXT but, I swapped my front calipers and rear drums to SRT4 calipers all around and they are just too thick when they were supposed to fit the SRT4 calipers according to the information when I ordered. I am also using the Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors they came with. I did fully press in the caliper pistons with a piston tool. If I would have ordered the full kit with their calipers, would that have made any difference? I am not sure myself as it said they are just OEM calipers remanufactured to performance specs for Neons. I am not sure if their remanfacturing process meant somehow resizing the calipers to fit their pads and rotors or not. When put side by side, these things are a brick compaired to stock pads.
Keep us updated. I think these pads are suppose to be used under heavy load. If used like normal pads than that might happen. That’s what it looks like. I bought a set will install next week
Just ordered this kit for my car so I guess I'll find out if I made a mistake or not. But your saying the pad is not worn evenly, sounds like a sticking caliper or bad hardware.
Just started using some Z23 and Z36 pads. The pad friction material appears to have seen some excessive heat causing friction material breakdown. Sometimes it can be a friction material failure (mfg composition issue). Did Power Stop request the pads for evaluation? Did you capture any brake pad or rotor temps? Any mountainous driving or heavy load towing? Did you happen to rotate wheels after 20 minute drive to see if brakes were dragging? Trying to better understand possible root cause of your failure. The only brake pad I've never had a problem with is Hawk LTS pads.
My Z23 front pads are half worn out already and I had only put 5,000 miles on the car, in the year that I've had them. They also have the following undesirable characteristics: 1. squeaks until they're warmed up (which my apt neighbors can hear as I'm in the process of leaving the parking garage). 2. dust everywhere on the wheel. They're supposed to be ceramic, but act like a soft non ceramic that would offer performance fit for operating on a race track, but they don't. Will be looking at Duralast and Brembo pads shortly. At least the calipers and rotors are ok. My front calipers had come unpainted, but that's what I get when I buy a $115 remanufactured part.
Duralast Gold...pay for one set of pads and you'll never have to pay again! I keep my receipt in the glove box, when the pads wear out they give you another set for free.
Maybe you got a bad set of pads? I mean I run power stop on my outback and Jetta and both are fine. Stopping power and pedal feel great. Sorry to hear the trouble you went through and thank god you or anyone else weren’t hurt.
at the end of the day, that's the important thing. I used to rock PowerStop for years. I can't imagine all they're products are bad, and I'm sure they still make some good stuff. But safety is a big concern, so I figured i wouldn't chance it.
News Flash: Brake Performance is NOT "MADE" in America. While I am not knocking their quality are they are about the same as PowerStop, they are "Machined" in America meaning these are rotors and pads from CHINA... but the surface, slots and cross drilling on the rotors is done in America. Second this is 100% user error. The "crumpling" is normal when you pick and poke at it because there are carbon "FIBER" infused ceramic pads. You probably are looking for O.E. ceramic or semi-metallic pads for your vehicle. The "sponginess" is because they have been overheated and compromised, either through your break in process (probably) because the 10-20 gradual stops are supposed to be spaced apart for the pads to cool sufficiently before applying a normal load. You can tell they were overheated just by the coloration of the pads. The ideal way to break in a pad is to travel on a highway at low speeds and gradually slow to a stop or take an exit then get back on again and maintain speed for about 1-2 miles before repeating. Blocking off a road... is WAY too short and the repeated braking without proper cooling causes this. The other cause is rust and or debris BEHIND the new brake hardware/guides/shims. This wall cause the pad to stick in place once the caliper is released causing the pads to just slightly touch the rotor with too much pressure and preventing them from cooling and instead generating consistent heat to the pad. From your video it is 100% apparent that you did not brush or wire wheel the caliper bracket. Also I have never heard of "peanutbutter" pads. While brake jobs can be done at home, this is a perfect example of why it is important to understand what you are doing or leave it to a professional. (and no, this does not mean all professional mechanic shops are "professional". You did a simple remove and replace which is done at most shops to save money and produce profit by getting it in and out, but a qualified professional would have tested to make sure that the caliper is retracting properly, moving properly, and that the pads are moving properly and not jammed stuck into the caliper bracket. Sometimes when pads are painted there can be a dribble on the tab that causes this also. a professional would know to check this.)
Sorry you ran into an issue with these. I have seen this type of flaking before but it's always with cheap parts store brand pads. Only times i've seen this outside the $19.99 specials is when pads over heat and literally start to melt away. Are you sure you didn't have a stuck caliper? I've had the Powerstop Z23 and Z26 pads on 3 cars and 1 truck and never had a problem. The truck is used extensively in hauling and even has over sized tires. Brakes are strong enough to activate the ABS at about have the pedal pressure of the factory pads. The brakes were so much better than stock that I had to relearn how to drive the truck. Not sure if you somehow got knock off pads or a bad batch but I would call Powerstop and talk directly to them as this is not typical of their products performance.
Would you say the rotors would still be bad? For example, on an older car of mine, I have Powerstop Drilled\slotted rotors front and back, but I had NAPA pads. They were great, and lasted a long time. It looks like your rotors were still in good shape after your experience. Would you say the rotors are good, but their pads, not so much?
i originally got this set because my old PowerStop rotors warped. they were a few years old, but not all that many miles on them. I figured I would just replace all the parts, which got me to the set in the video. I don't think they changed the rotors - only the pads. But after my issues I went to Brake Performance, which has a lifetime warranty on their rotors from warping or cracking.
I replaced my brakes last year with power stop evo Z23 on my 2014 Chevy SS. I drive aggressive every now and then and they perform way better than my stock ones. I wonder if you got a bad batch?
I just placed the order for these pads and rotors on my Benz GL550 yesterday. The claim on Rockauto was OEM or better quality. I figured I'd save the $220 in parts vs OEM and go with these Powerstops. But then I stumbled upon this video and a couple of others and immediately started having buyer's remorse. The brake kit is still on its way here, but I've already printed a return label at Rockauto's discounted price of $13. So I'll take the $13 lesson and happily spend the extra $220 for OEM parts to ensure my safety. My truck is 5800 lbs and I'm sure that the weight would destroy those pads in no time at all. And those Chinese rotors could be a crap shoot too. Thanks for posting the review so I wouldn't have to potentially make a very costly mistake.
I'm curious if the drifting when breaking issue was due to a bad caliper. Sometimes issues arise when you swap out parts because sediment gets knocked loose. Ceramic can be more forgiving in a situation like this because it's less resistant to wear than carbon fiber. I'd like to know if all 4 sets of pads you've replaced the power stops with are equal in thickness. Your response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Andrew.
There were only two sets, one for each side of the front of the vehicle. The rear of my vehicle uses drum brakes. As for the thickness of both sets used, I never took any measurements using a set of digital calipers, so I can't say for sure how far down one was compared to the other. I can however State for the record that the problem I was experiencing with power stop products went away the moment I switched over to Akebono pads.
@@andrewesquivel if all you changed were the front pads sounds like you just had more grip in the front and possibly more grip on tree right when you felt your rear was wanting to go straight. Either way the flaking seems odd. Were those rotors designed to work with the power stops?
@@Majatecks the rotors and pads are both from Power stop. They sell them together as a kit. The pads went through the bed in procedure as described on the box that they came in.
So I’m confused are these good to buy for my 2005 mustang v6 I’m stuck between z26 and z23 all I wanna know is that do they squeal or warp fast or crack or just simply suck within 3 years ? Lmk guys please
I had z23 on my 2017 Dodge Charger 392 , I replaced them myself and I personally had 0 issues. Good performance and almost no brake dust. I just installed z26 ones on my hellcat and will give an update in a week or so. Hopefully no issues.
Hi. I was so close to ordering the Power Stop Z23 for my 2015 Mustang, then saw this video. Do not want peanut butter pads. Thank you. Also go to try the Akebono and Brake Performance combo.
I know what you're trying to say but actually OEM pads aren't the same as the OE factory pads that came with your car. The car maker orders special pads to install as OE, whereas OEM are just aftermarket pads made to the manufacturer's specification to fit that car. These can all be made by the same company as well. In some cases OEM pads are exactly the same as branded pads you can buy in the shop for cheaper. I hope this makes sense. Same thing goes for things like shocks and struts.
I've got less than 200 miles on my Z23 pad/rotor kit. I wish I'd watched this first. I did experience a slightly mushier pedal, but stopping power seems good so far. Would it be better to swap the pads out now or hope I got a longer lasting formulation?
if its already spongy, you've already got a problem. No pad should ever make the brakes spongy. However, do test to make sure your brake lines are free of air. after that, if it still does it, swap out for something like Akebono Pro Act.
These rotors use a zinc coating as a rust inhibitor, as opposed to using oils. If you're using a rotor that is not zinc coated, absolutely yes you must use brake cleaner get that oil off. However, zinc coated rotors are designed to have the brake pads wear away the zinc during the bed in procedure. Zinc coated rotors do not have the oils to prevent rust that are normal rotor has, therefore there's nothing necessary to wash away beforehand. The advantage of this is that the entire rotor, minus the surface area where the brake pad meets the rotor, will stay protected from rust for a very long time as you continue to use them. There are many companies using this technique now to prevent rust as opposed to the old way of using an oil coating.
Looks to me like they sent you the wrong pads, or maybe your calipers needed replacing. I bought the exact same Z23 brake kit set that came with the same rotors, pads, and also new calipers (painted red) in 2017 for my 2005 Ram 1500. They are still in excellent shape right now. 2 years and 20k miles later they still look almost new.
Ok, so here is another question are your rotors on backwards ? I can’t tell where the front of your truck is. Some manufacturers, like Brembo want the outside perimeter of the “vein” pointing forward so it is the first to make contact with the pad. Meaning if the front of your truck is to the right , they are backwards. This still doesn’t clear up the “peanut butter” but investigate that. Thanks for the review !
My Z23s on my Gen4 Camry were literally done after 2 years. 10 % pad left on the front driver side and 30 to 50 percent on the driver side. . Mine were very good at braking up until i started hearing some horrendous nails on chalk board sounds even when not braking ! The first issue was that rocks got stuck between the pad and cut into my rotors. Second issue is the bottom of the brake pad seized into the brake clip and was not sliding correctly. These were OEM clips that I used and the horrendous winters we had for the past 2 years up in Ontario + salt rusted and pitted the surface the brake pads were sliding on. To summarize: My aggressive braking and driving style + salt and winter trash contributed to severe brake wear in the past 2 years.
It could be as simple as keeping your foot off the brake pedal. Far too many people keep their left foot on the petal all the time, making unneeded contact and heat to the pads.
mine do the same thing ceramic ones but it is only squashy at first second then bites good but I live in the mountains and constantly cross mountains and normal pads will warp rotors after a few times going over the mountain these haven't caused my rotors to warp and they have had 2 sets of these pads on the same set of rotors. im happy not to get buying rotors
The backing plate and mettle between the pad itself and the piston on the caliper is thicker on some brakes making it so you have to either push it in far and make it feel spongy or thick mettle will not require that much push down force.
I think people are misinterpreting the term spongy maybe lack stopping power you only get spongy brakes with air in the line or bad master cylinder or brake booster never had pads cause sponginess.
yeah im having a hard time with that one. this video feels like a shill for another company. if you read all of the comments, they are weirdly similar...TONS of ppl saying i just ordered them, etc. so wait, you waited to after you ordered them to watch videos? i have been a service writer at a chrysler dealer, and an asst mgr of a midas shop, and have NEVER heard the term "peanut butter pads" lool
i used 14,000 miles them. For first 1000 miles they were great. After first 1000 miles they started making noise when i brake between 40-50 mph. It sounds like worn pads but not. They sent me all rotors and pads for free under warranty. I changed them same thing happened. I would never buy them again.
11/12/2018 update I changed front pads to akebono act. Still noisy but less than powerstops. I think drilled and slotted rotors making that noise. Right now i am %100 sure never buy drilled and slotted rotors. If you buy good products go for OEM suppliers like ACDelco, Bosch, Akebono, Brembo
Weird. 5k on a F150 that has known stock issues and with these so far so good. And no noise. Check the slider bolts if they are floating calipers, broken clip if applicable and lube where the caliper piston meets the back of these pad
On fords people always do a big mistake the put the inside pad on the outside the one with ears go inside the straight ones are outside I made the same mistake fixed the error and it's a world of difference now the bite into the caliper and get stuck or only use the top to brake your mechanic just said that cause why teach you you error
I have been doing brakes forever. Bought every single after market product that’s out there. Two things I’ve learned. Brakes need to be broke in and in my experience don’t bother with after market products. The engineers who made the car designed the braking system. In my case I just go to the dealer parts department and buy the originals. In the long run it’s cheaper and safer.
I called power stop about an hour ago to ask a few questions about cobra calipers and the guy was barely listening and after repeating myself the guy played stupid and hung up the phone. When I called back I got someone else that barely knew what a caliper was but he said he was just customer service and there was only one tech guy and I already dealt with him. I’ll pass. I wouldn’t waste my breath. I don’t order from companies like that. At all. And never will.
Look at the glazing on the pads and how the rubber shims are melted where caliper contacts they were severely overheated and those drilled and slotted rotors eat pads fast you burnt the pads and made them brittle
bought a set of akebono for my 04 mach1 from rock auto. they looked old and dated full of dust. no hardware and no lube. sent an email to Akebono tech support. they said by the serial number they are an old compound no longer used. Also bought rotors for the mach from rockauto. They do not fit. They scrape the hub. Finally bought a set of powerstop and they are correct. have the correct offset. May just use the ceramic Carquest pads with the powerstop rotors.. Akebono and rockauto are not what they used to be.
Looks correct to me, You can see the top of the slot is pointing towards the rear of the vehicle. That way during rotation the gasses can be directed out from under the pads
*Answers to common questions I get*
YES, the guide pins were cleaned and lubed up with the supplied lube that powerstop provides
All the new hardware they included was used - boot, shims, lube,
This video shows the Front passenger side wheel.
Each side was installed based on powerstop instructions. Here is their video for reference
ua-cam.com/video/krLOy90KrvY/v-deo.html
In this video the front of my car is facing to the right.
My car has drums in the back, not rotors.
Yes, I really did in fact have several friend stand at 2 different 3 way intersections so they could warn cars adjacent to my direction to hold up for just a moment as I came through that spot so I could preform the bed in procedure. The bed in procedure was preformed the way the info on the box said to do.
When I switched over to Akebono pro act ultra premium ceramic pads the issues I had immediately went away.
The pads and rotors came from amazon.
Powerstop reached out to me, and ultimately I did get a replacement set of pads and rotors, however I decided to not use them, and they sit in a box in my garage unused. Powerstop refused to discuss what their pads were made of, as they wish to retain their proprietary forumalation of their pads as an industry secret.
Brake Rotos and pads OEM original ? No Aftermarket
Sounds like a binding caliper issue, maybe they didn't compress correctly or Flex-Line internal collapsing issue? I'm always looking to learn something new, How did you make out with your new pads? BTW, I never heard of peanut butter brakes, what the jelly are you talking about. Lol
Get Brake disc and brake pads with ECE R90 certification. It has R90-xxxxx numbers on the parts that had been tested and approved by EU. Unfortunately, we do not have regulation in USA for minimum standard for brake parts.
The problem most of all brands start with quality parts to gain customers trusts and years later the quality go down
The lube packets are for the pads ONLY. Must use silicone for slide pins. And the pads are clearly bone dry in that regard.
I have had the z23 4 wheel kits on two cars for 5 years with no issues
I did have them installed by a shop though
@@rationalguy2941 what kind of shop?
I've installed PowerStop slotted rotors and Z23 pads on three cars now (G37, Q70 and MKZ) and haven't had the slightest bit of problem with any of them. Worked great and outlasted the stock setup on all three vehicles. Probably going to put their non-slotted coated rotors and Z23 pads on my wife's Santa Fe Ultimate soon.
Have used the Z23 with slotted/drilled rotors on my 13 Lincoln MKX and they work great. Put the Z26 pads on my 2013 Mustang Boss 302 for a track day and they were excellent....hard braking and no fade whatsoever. And I just put them on the rears of my 11 Shelby GT500 and no issues so far. I think the break in procedure is crucial to success. I plan to buy them when the time comes for the front on my Shelby.
Because there are many people who have the opposite experience as me, this might be a good opportunity to gather large amounts of data from many people to see just how common or uncommon problems are with this set up.
In the video there is a poll you can vote on.
Have you had any issues with your PowerStop Rotors and Pads
*No - The product works as advertised
*Yes - The product does not work as advertised (usually this means its a problem that qualifies for a warranty replacement)
I am a Bangladeshi, I like your work very much .... I am learning the work of car engine in Bangladesh, I really want to make a living by working with good and skilled teachers like you.
I brought this exact brake kit (rotors and pads) and I have found that after extensive driving and the heat being aggressive, my car has a bit of a problem stopping. It's like the brakes slip a bit and the braking is not strong enough. However, when it's raining, they work beautiful. They have stronger braking power.
thank you for this video i went trough a set and i was assuming it was my driving methods. Good thing it was only one of my vehicles that had that type pads.... never again... Thank You.
I know this is a 2 year old comment, but in my 1 hour of research it's clearly advertised as being "softer" do to the carbon fiber mix, and meant to bite better under high temp braking applications. It will feel mushy at lower temps because the material is softer.
Never had any issues with them on my Crown Vic, VW Golf, Camry, or Town and Country. You can't attribute uneven wear to pads unless you replaced the guide pins, bushings, etc. They've been good and solid longevity in stop and go.
This is the comment I am looking for. Joe with the wrench and camera can say whatever they want. I like how he brings up coefficient of friction yet does not think about heat, did he break them in, has he changed his fluid ever?
I'm glad I found your video cuz I was just about to buy them.
I installed these z23 pads on my Corolla with the duralast gold high carbon coated rotors and have never had any problems they work great. Of course I used the duralast gold high carbon rotors cuz I do not like the drilled and slotted rotors at all (especially cheap ones) they just eat up the pads and are harsh and make too much noise and the high carbon content in the duralast gold rotors greatly helps dissipate heat and resists warping and hot spots, and no matter what I replace ALL the hardware included the guide pins and caliper mounting bolts and all other hardware and properly clean and lube everything whether it needs it or not I believe in spending the extra money to ensure perfection and of course I find a smooth deserted open road and follow the break in procedure perfectly to the letter. And I also torque all caliper hardware to the proper torque specs I don't just tighten things with a socket wrench like most people but then again I'm a Certified ASE tech with a degree in automotive technology and I'm a manager at a service facility so I firmly believe in spending the time and money to do the job flawlessly or I just don't do it at all.
I have an 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. These Jeeps are notorious for eating brakes. I put this Powerstop kit on almost 2 years ago and I still have over 2/3 of the pad left. They bite well and I have been shimmy free for 2 years. Great product!
That's what I'm wondering because I just put these on my 2019 Civic SI with some Centric rotors and they seem to be good😎
I had same issue for my land rover I followed the bed in procedure too. The pads disintegrated after 150 mile trip. Sad I used to like them. Ended up akebono too. I went with centric rotors anti rust too. Been amazing since.
Thanks for sharing... Im taking this out of my Cart..
Read the comments first and do your own research. Seems to me like he’s having other issues.
@unknowndestinyfabrication3872 agreed. Don't disregard the other reviews. If I listened to this guy I wouldn't have pulled the trigger.
I went by hundreds of other positive reviews and bought the z23 kit for my 5th gen 2SS. Let me tell you I will buy nothing else except powerstop from now on.
I am beyond happy with them.
Great vid, thanks. I had these in my cart just waiting to hit order before I looked up a couple reviews.
Guy One same here... I've had it in my cart on Amazon for like 2 months now, seemed sketchy but now i know
You’re missing out. Powerstops are really good upgrades for brakes.
Imagine living in a Country where Quality =
$$$$
Did you remember to clean and lube the caliper slides and lube the hardware where the pads ride in the caliper bracket? So many details to go over to isolate where the problem may be.
I was looking at replacing my stock factory front discs with the new Z26 kit , it includes the calipers, if your going to upgrade brakes, do it correctly and don't cut corners. The Wilwood kit is way to expensive and I will have to do some cutting on the wheel spindles. Talked to Power Stop customer service and Chris who I spoke with is extremely knowledgeable and helpful.. I'm taking this review with a grain of salt and still ordering the Z26 kit for my 1995 S10.
He needed new calipers plus more cleaning fluid all over his job, I would use Lucas extreme caliper grease for the pins. Remember to clean the rotors twice with brake cleaner and rags, three times is the charm.
Wow!
I have the same issue!
Did the flushing n thought maybe it was just me.
Thanx for the video!
Run same kit on an escape, installed last year and was great and still great. Finally have gone longer then a year with out brake warp with these and that last pad/rotor combo was Raybestos. That looks like they were over heated. Seen this on highway rigs. More to this then meets the eye.
David Henri I'm glad to hear they worked out for you. Unfortunately I was one of a number of people who have not been so lucky
Thanks for the video. I've always used EBC on my car and when I switched to the Z23 I noticed my pedal was spongy. I've had them for 3 months now and it's still spongy. I don't like how it feels at all. It feels like a battle from an old van. I will have my pads inspected.
Update: contacted Power Stop and they sent me a new pair. I had them replaced and these feel much better. I still feel that Ebc have better feel and more grip but the new set I got is better than a motorcraft set. They're not dusty. They stop better when they're hotter. Since I didn't use the car after the first set it is undeterminable if they have the same condition as the ones in the video, but the pedal feel and performance noticeably improved with the new set.
I reccomend axxis metal master pads for regular street driven cars for safe stopping, but for aggressive street pads i highly reccomend axxis altimates or now under the brand PBR euro pads, best aggressive street pad you want to run on the street, great cold bite, and as they get warmer they bite harder, the initial bite is always good even in the cold but not too aggressive where it feels like on off, smooth but aggressive, although they do dust alot the dust isn't corrosive and easily washed off, and the prices are soo good compared to other pads it's a no brainer
Thanks for making this... I almost bought them.
I JUST HAD THE EXACT SAME ISSUE WITH A 2016 ACCORD EX-L V6. I CANT BELIEVE YOU GOT THAT MANY MILES OUT OF THEM. After installation, I followed the bed-in procedure. I was less-than impressed with the so-called upgrade in braking performance. I looked at the rotors (keep in mind this is with less than 10 miles on them) and noticed some scoring. The next day, I removed the wheels and examined the pads. To my surprise, I noticed what I considered to be an extreme amount of pitting in the friction material. My pads were more unevenly worn and worsely pitted than the ones in this video, AND WITH LESS THAN 20 MILES ON THEM. I purchased the K6516 kit from Summit Racing which included rotors and pads (and hardware) for all four corners of my Accord. The rotors are what grabbed my attention, and I thought they would look rather nice behind my 19" Alutecs. Total price was $326 (free shipping) which I thought was a good deal. I was skeptical, but kept an open mind. After a mere day and a half of frustration, I replaced the pads with Genuine Honda ceramic pads and have never been happier. I've got to see if I can some sort of refund for these junk pads.
Dam I got the same car year too and just bought this whole brake kit.
@@SoPiPz any update after the installation?
I installed a set of these on an Toyota FRS about a year ago, and a Ford Fusion less than a week ago. Both set are working out great. Sorry to hear your having issues.
Rob Toll how are they holding up on the fusion?
How are they now?
@@Otagner Still doing good on both cars!
So 3+ years on the Toyota ? How’s the calipers ? Still intact and going strong ? Also Did paint start chipping ?
Just had the same experience on my jeep.
I used the Z26 all four wheel brake kit on my 2016 BMW 528xi and I love them. Replaced in April 2021till now w/5000 miles on them. No problem whatsoever.
I used the Z17 for my 2018 F150 rear pads with no issues, I did notice they wear out fast or maybe is just the type of vehicle.
First thing to check is the guide pins. Make sure your calipers move on the pins easily. If they don’t, you need new pins and bushings. Pulling to one side? Replace the flexible hoses. Hoses will deteriorate, and while you might not see it, they’ll increase in diameter. The more pressure you put on the pedal, the more the hose opens up, and less fluid entering your caliper, while others operate properly. Worn or sticking guide pins can cause this too. That’s two common problems people overlook when doing brakes. Pads wearing funny from the top of the pad to the bottom would indicate a wheel bearing issue. If the vehicle has flange bearings, the easy way to check is drive it, and if you notice noise, like a rumbling noise, or you feel vibration in the steering wheel as you go around turns or do a quick lane change, it’s your bearings. Look over EVERYTHING when you do a brake job. The rotor is mounted to a bearing. The pads are mounted to a caliper that’s supposed to be able to move easily, AND the brake hoses need to remain firm for everything to work like they should. Just seeing what you’ve shown tells me you have more wrong than just pads and rotors. If your mechanic couldn’t see that, you need to find a new mechanic.
Pads were overheated so pulling was either sticking slide pins/piston or line collapsing. Very rare but I've seen rubber lines act like a check valve when collapsed. Lines swelling though may affect pedal feel but unlikely to notice pulling.
Did the new pads and rotors fix the issue? Almost seems like itwasa hung caliper? Update
I’ve used akebono and they always worked great. I used Wagner last time on my Tacoma and they are ok but don’t stop as fast as the factory akebono. They work fine overall but I was towing a trailer down a mountain yesterday and had a brake fade issue 2/3 down the mountain. I’m looking into putting drilled rotors and maybe Brembo,akebono premium or maybe hawk but never heard of them. I looked into power stop but if they are made in China I’ll pass.
Your phone and most of everything you use is made in china.
I have powerstops on my truck, no issues. Noticed your pad has no grease where it slides along the track. Did you follow the break in procedure?
I just picked up a power stop kit of rear rotors with this type of pads for my Dodge ram today will post how things work out..
Update?
Thank you for the review
I just put a set of the drilled/slotted rotors with z16 pads on my LR4 and was already looking to bump up to the Z23s because I don't wanna put too much wear on the new rotors. Now I have to think twice
I swapped from oem to these since I tow in the mountains. I noticed a softer pedal after new install. I will say you are correct with the heat. I think with the carbon in there. They perform better after ya heat them up. So for daily driving I think it’s a more advanced user pad. I didn’t have the pad melting on there like you did. But they definitely need more heat than average
We install powerstop professionally and have never had an issue like this thankfully. We use their standard coated rotors and the non carbon pads so I can't really help. I will say they have the nicest fit and finish of any major brand and perform better also. And they are made in China but are re-speced in the us not just straight in the box. Best product we use tbh
@@dallasray3223 we get amazing performance from the z17 pads and standard Geomet coated rotors. Cross drilled rotors have less surface area and less stopping power in my opinion. I guess if you are pulling a trailer on a massive downgrade the heat may get to ya but properly clean fluid makes a big difference in boiling temp. Hope this helps
@@dallasray3223 I should also stress we sand blast the caliper brackets, lube both sides of the hardware, remove old grease from the slide pin bores, clean the hub surface and lube the Piston face as our normal service. It's how I've always done it and powerstop pulls way ahead of others as far as comebacks
@@dallasray3223 here in Iowa our rotors rust aggressively from salt in the winter. So we go with coated rotors to slow down the decay
Where did you buy the rakes at? They could have been counterfeit.
I haven't had an issue with them on my Mazda Speed6, I replaced to OEM pads with these and never looked back. Bye bye to almost all break dust (The OEM pads were HORRIBLE with this) and there was no noise. Put them on the wife's car too and no issues. The only pads I did have issues with were when I decided to not use these. About to put the same Z23s on my GS350. Without know how you drive daily and seeing how you actually broke these in, it's hard to denounce the entire manufacture after *ONE* bad experience. I've had multiple good ones though. I feel like I'll have another. I have a closed road I can do my break in on, so I can truly do it as described, but I figure it would be hard to pull it off anywhere else. This also could just be a defective set of pads. No manufacture has 100% success with them. Did you try going back to Power Stop with them?
I recently installed the z26 performance pads on my SRT8 Dodge Challenger and have yet to have braking issues. Maybe the z26 formula is superior?
Did you clean the rotors before installing them?
I put these rotors, calipers and pads on the front of my CRV used for mail. They perform great, but I did eat them up in 13k miles.
Same problem here , took me over a month to get a replacement ,new brakes are doing the same thing , brakes seem to be sticking , I’ve bled out the whole brake system , broke them in as the company recommended and still garbage
my powerstop Z17's that I just purchased grind when I brake.. I've tried going through a break-in period but 500 miles later, still grinds... I'm going to be swapping them out. Enough is enough.
Thank you for this I bought these and thought I was crazy or that my calipers where bad because its so bad.after changing brakes usually the peddle raises up and becomes firm these don't.
Im on my second set of powerstops. Eventually worn, no issues. You got a flawes product. Possible counterfeit? Did you buy them from powerstop directly? This is kind of alarming
Jst about order a complete set for my Ford f-150.
Not going to now!!!
Thanks
I had so many issues with Power Stop and their rotors...
I got a set of these that were supposed to fit my 2003 Neon but, they are too thick. What should I do? It is an SXT but, I swapped my front calipers and rear drums to SRT4 calipers all around and they are just too thick when they were supposed to fit the SRT4 calipers according to the information when I ordered. I am also using the Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors they came with. I did fully press in the caliper pistons with a piston tool. If I would have ordered the full kit with their calipers, would that have made any difference? I am not sure myself as it said they are just OEM calipers remanufactured to performance specs for Neons. I am not sure if their remanfacturing process meant somehow resizing the calipers to fit their pads and rotors or not. When put side by side, these things are a brick compaired to stock pads.
We’re the pads matched to the rotors?
Not the best video to look at after ordering the kit. Haha. Thank you for taking the time and making the video.
Ouch..... same here. How urs making out? I haven't installed mine yet
Keep us updated. I think these pads are suppose to be used under heavy load. If used like normal pads than that might happen. That’s what it looks like. I bought a set will install next week
@@coromantobass3788 how are they
Just ordered this kit for my car so I guess I'll find out if I made a mistake or not. But your saying the pad is not worn evenly, sounds like a sticking caliper or bad hardware.
What performance breaks do you recommend
99 z28 10 years same rotars and pads 80thou hard miles these brakes badass
Bad brake hose? Causing the pads to heat up?
Just started using some Z23 and Z36 pads. The pad friction material appears to have seen some excessive heat causing friction material breakdown. Sometimes it can be a friction material failure (mfg composition issue). Did Power Stop request the pads for evaluation? Did you capture any brake pad or rotor temps? Any mountainous driving or heavy load towing? Did you happen to rotate wheels after 20 minute drive to see if brakes were dragging? Trying to better understand possible root cause of your failure. The only brake pad I've never had a problem with is Hawk LTS pads.
My Z23 front pads are half worn out already and I had only put 5,000 miles on the car, in the year that I've had them. They also have the following undesirable characteristics: 1. squeaks until they're warmed up (which my apt neighbors can hear as I'm in the process of leaving the parking garage). 2. dust everywhere on the wheel. They're supposed to be ceramic, but act like a soft non ceramic that would offer performance fit for operating on a race track, but they don't. Will be looking at Duralast and Brembo pads shortly. At least the calipers and rotors are ok. My front calipers had come unpainted, but that's what I get when I buy a $115 remanufactured part.
Duralast Gold...pay for one set of pads and you'll never have to pay again! I keep my receipt in the glove box, when the pads wear out they give you another set for free.
I found the same issue with Z26 pads. They were very spongy and wore unevenly - I installed these in January of 19.
Maybe you got a bad set of pads? I mean I run power stop on my outback and Jetta and both are fine. Stopping power and pedal feel great. Sorry to hear the trouble you went through and thank god you or anyone else weren’t hurt.
at the end of the day, that's the important thing. I used to rock PowerStop for years. I can't imagine all they're products are bad, and I'm sure they still make some good stuff. But safety is a big concern, so I figured i wouldn't chance it.
Thanks for the warning.
News Flash: Brake Performance is NOT "MADE" in America. While I am not knocking their quality are they are about the same as PowerStop, they are "Machined" in America meaning these are rotors and pads from CHINA... but the surface, slots and cross drilling on the rotors is done in America. Second this is 100% user error.
The "crumpling" is normal when you pick and poke at it because there are carbon "FIBER" infused ceramic pads. You probably are looking for O.E. ceramic or semi-metallic pads for your vehicle. The "sponginess" is because they have been overheated and compromised, either through your break in process (probably) because the 10-20 gradual stops are supposed to be spaced apart for the pads to cool sufficiently before applying a normal load. You can tell they were overheated just by the coloration of the pads.
The ideal way to break in a pad is to travel on a highway at low speeds and gradually slow to a stop or take an exit then get back on again and maintain speed for about 1-2 miles before repeating. Blocking off a road... is WAY too short and the repeated braking without proper cooling causes this. The other cause is rust and or debris BEHIND the new brake hardware/guides/shims. This wall cause the pad to stick in place once the caliper is released causing the pads to just slightly touch the rotor with too much pressure and preventing them from cooling and instead generating consistent heat to the pad. From your video it is 100% apparent that you did not brush or wire wheel the caliper bracket.
Also I have never heard of "peanutbutter" pads. While brake jobs can be done at home, this is a perfect example of why it is important to understand what you are doing or leave it to a professional. (and no, this does not mean all professional mechanic shops are "professional". You did a simple remove and replace which is done at most shops to save money and produce profit by getting it in and out, but a qualified professional would have tested to make sure that the caliper is retracting properly, moving properly, and that the pads are moving properly and not jammed stuck into the caliper bracket. Sometimes when pads are painted there can be a dribble on the tab that causes this also. a professional would know to check this.)
I appreciate your input.
100% agree with you. Break pads don't just crumble unless you use them wrong or install them wrong.
@@klempel11 What would be the wrong way to install these that would make them crumble, because I sure can't think of any?
Thanks powerstop...
Definitely user error I know there not exactly top of the line pars but you can tell he is clueless
Hi I gat the same problem with my power stop break pad you think I can use the akabon pads on my rotors if the still go Honda Odyssey 2012
Sorry you ran into an issue with these. I have seen this type of flaking before but it's always with cheap parts store brand pads. Only times i've seen this outside the $19.99 specials is when pads over heat and literally start to melt away. Are you sure you didn't have a stuck caliper?
I've had the Powerstop Z23 and Z26 pads on 3 cars and 1 truck and never had a problem. The truck is used extensively in hauling and even has over sized tires. Brakes are strong enough to activate the ABS at about have the pedal pressure of the factory pads. The brakes were so much better than stock that I had to relearn how to drive the truck.
Not sure if you somehow got knock off pads or a bad batch but I would call Powerstop and talk directly to them as this is not typical of their products performance.
So so how did it go withthe akebono brakes?
Would you say the rotors would still be bad? For example, on an older car of mine, I have Powerstop Drilled\slotted rotors front and back, but I had NAPA pads. They were great, and lasted a long time. It looks like your rotors were still in good shape after your experience. Would you say the rotors are good, but their pads, not so much?
i originally got this set because my old PowerStop rotors warped. they were a few years old, but not all that many miles on them. I figured I would just replace all the parts, which got me to the set in the video. I don't think they changed the rotors - only the pads. But after my issues I went to Brake Performance, which has a lifetime warranty on their rotors from warping or cracking.
I’ve had this happen to me you got them too hot during brake in
I replaced my brakes last year with power stop evo Z23 on my 2014 Chevy SS. I drive aggressive every now and then and they perform way better than my stock ones. I wonder if you got a bad batch?
im thinking he got a bad batch i installed the same kit on my buddys 2018 charger scat pack and he drives aggressive and he has had no issues.
i’ve got an 04 IS300 with the rotors and pads from the Z23 and same here
I put them on my 2004 Volvo s40 and never had in issue. It made my brakes stiffer and they would stop be on a dime
@@samw I'm debating putting these on my 04 is also, how have they held up
I just placed the order for these pads and rotors on my Benz GL550 yesterday. The claim on Rockauto was OEM or better quality. I figured I'd save the $220 in parts vs OEM and go with these Powerstops. But then I stumbled upon this video and a couple of others and immediately started having buyer's remorse. The brake kit is still on its way here, but I've already printed a return label at Rockauto's discounted price of $13. So I'll take the $13 lesson and happily spend the extra $220 for OEM parts to ensure my safety. My truck is 5800 lbs and I'm sure that the weight would destroy those pads in no time at all. And those Chinese rotors could be a crap shoot too. Thanks for posting the review so I wouldn't have to potentially make a very costly mistake.
I'm curious if the drifting when breaking issue was due to a bad caliper. Sometimes issues arise when you swap out parts because sediment gets knocked loose. Ceramic can be more forgiving in a situation like this because it's less resistant to wear than carbon fiber. I'd like to know if all 4 sets of pads you've replaced the power stops with are equal in thickness. Your response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Andrew.
There were only two sets, one for each side of the front of the vehicle. The rear of my vehicle uses drum brakes. As for the thickness of both sets used, I never took any measurements using a set of digital calipers, so I can't say for sure how far down one was compared to the other. I can however State for the record that the problem I was experiencing with power stop products went away the moment I switched over to Akebono pads.
@@andrewesquivel if all you changed were the front pads sounds like you just had more grip in the front and possibly more grip on tree right when you felt your rear was wanting to go straight. Either way the flaking seems odd. Were those rotors designed to work with the power stops?
@@Majatecks the rotors and pads are both from Power stop. They sell them together as a kit. The pads went through the bed in procedure as described on the box that they came in.
I think Scott Kilmer loves those Okobono (SP?).
So I’m confused are these good to buy for my 2005 mustang v6 I’m stuck between z26 and z23 all I wanna know is that do they squeal or warp fast or crack or just simply suck within 3 years ? Lmk guys please
I had z23 on my 2017 Dodge Charger 392 , I replaced them myself and I personally had 0 issues. Good performance and almost no brake dust. I just installed z26 ones on my hellcat and will give an update in a week or so. Hopefully no issues.
How have they held up?
how are they?
How are they holding up?
Yo? What happened?
@@medicchester Breaks didnt stop him in time 😂
Hi. I was so close to ordering the Power Stop Z23 for my 2015 Mustang, then saw this video. Do not want peanut butter pads. Thank you. Also go to try the Akebono and Brake Performance combo.
Lmao, I legit just canceled my order because of this video
Oem workers wonderful. Never had issues.
I know what you're trying to say but actually OEM pads aren't the same as the OE factory pads that came with your car.
The car maker orders special pads to install as OE, whereas OEM are just aftermarket pads made to the manufacturer's specification to fit that car. These can all be made by the same company as well.
In some cases OEM pads are exactly the same as branded pads you can buy in the shop for cheaper. I hope this makes sense. Same thing goes for things like shocks and struts.
Minds failed as well on 2001 acura mdx replacing all 4 wheels brake pads and rotors
Am having the same issue i have break pad dust all over the side of the front doors and the back the same am changing them
Same problem here , I went from Honda’s crappy oem pads and rotors to this .. Any suggestions and a good set of pads a rotors to get ?
Where did you buy them from?
I've got less than 200 miles on my Z23 pad/rotor kit. I wish I'd watched this first. I did experience a slightly mushier pedal, but stopping power seems good so far. Would it be better to swap the pads out now or hope I got a longer lasting formulation?
if its already spongy, you've already got a problem. No pad should ever make the brakes spongy. However, do test to make sure your brake lines are free of air. after that, if it still does it, swap out for something like Akebono Pro Act.
Did you clean the oil off the rotors before installing the brake pads because that will contaminate the pads?
These rotors use a zinc coating as a rust inhibitor, as opposed to using oils. If you're using a rotor that is not zinc coated, absolutely yes you must use brake cleaner get that oil off. However, zinc coated rotors are designed to have the brake pads wear away the zinc during the bed in procedure. Zinc coated rotors do not have the oils to prevent rust that are normal rotor has, therefore there's nothing necessary to wash away beforehand. The advantage of this is that the entire rotor, minus the surface area where the brake pad meets the rotor, will stay protected from rust for a very long time as you continue to use them. There are many companies using this technique now to prevent rust as opposed to the old way of using an oil coating.
Looks to me like they sent you the wrong pads, or maybe your calipers needed replacing. I bought the exact same Z23 brake kit set that came with the same rotors, pads, and also new calipers (painted red) in 2017 for my 2005 Ram 1500. They are still in excellent shape right now. 2 years and 20k miles later they still look almost new.
Ok, so here is another question are your rotors on backwards ? I can’t tell where the front of your truck is. Some manufacturers, like Brembo want the outside perimeter of the “vein” pointing forward so it is the first to make contact with the pad. Meaning if the front of your truck is to the right , they are backwards. This still doesn’t clear up the “peanut butter” but investigate that. Thanks for the review !
Check the pinned comment for answers to common questions line this.
Thanks, I sent them back and got a great set of Wagner OEX....
Wagner is the worst
My Z23s on my Gen4 Camry were literally done after 2 years. 10 % pad left on the front driver side and 30 to 50 percent on the driver side. . Mine were very good at braking up until i started hearing some horrendous nails on chalk board sounds even when not braking ! The first issue was that rocks got stuck between the pad and cut into my rotors. Second issue is the bottom of the brake pad seized into the brake clip and was not sliding correctly. These were OEM clips that I used and the horrendous winters we had for the past 2 years up in Ontario + salt rusted and pitted the surface the brake pads were sliding on. To summarize: My aggressive braking and driving style + salt and winter trash contributed to severe brake wear in the past 2 years.
Those pads look way too worn out for 100 miles. Did you make sure to mobilize the guide pins and re-lubricate them when you changed the breaks?
It could be as simple as keeping your foot off the brake pedal. Far too many people keep their left foot on the petal all the time, making unneeded contact and heat to the pads.
Have the same set sitting net to me that I'm installing tomorrow. Wish me luck. Seems like 50/50 shot at getting a decent set
how is the brake brother
How is it now?
@@ep9372 hope they didn't kill him
Same issue on my 2012 Colorado
mine do the same thing ceramic ones but it is only squashy at first second then bites good but I live in the mountains and constantly cross mountains and normal pads will warp rotors after a few times going over the mountain these haven't caused my rotors to warp and they have had 2 sets of these pads on the same set of rotors. im happy not to get buying rotors
Anybody got a good alternative suggestion.... I need the whole kit front and back disk plus calipers... I almost bought this from summit
I’ve had that happen with a lot of different brand pads. Some have a spongy pedal others are perfect. Not sure what the explanation is.
The backing plate and mettle between the pad itself and the piston on the caliper is thicker on some brakes making it so you have to either push it in far and make it feel spongy or thick mettle will not require that much push down force.
Change out brake lines to calipers? they lose their rigidity and you then lose compression and decompression.
I think people are misinterpreting the term spongy maybe lack stopping power you only get spongy brakes with air in the line or bad master cylinder or brake booster never had pads cause sponginess.
yeah im having a hard time with that one. this video feels like a shill for another company. if you read all of the comments, they are weirdly similar...TONS of ppl saying i just ordered them, etc.
so wait, you waited to after you ordered them to watch videos?
i have been a service writer at a chrysler dealer, and an asst mgr of a midas shop, and have NEVER heard the term "peanut butter pads" lool
i used 14,000 miles them. For first 1000 miles they were great. After first 1000 miles they started making noise when i brake between 40-50 mph. It sounds like worn pads but not. They sent me all rotors and pads for free under warranty. I changed them same thing happened. I would never buy them again.
11/12/2018 update
I changed front pads to akebono act. Still noisy but less than powerstops. I think drilled and slotted rotors making that noise. Right now i am %100 sure never buy drilled and slotted rotors. If you buy good products go for OEM suppliers like ACDelco, Bosch, Akebono, Brembo
Weird. 5k on a F150 that has known stock issues and with these so far so good. And no noise.
Check the slider bolts if they are floating calipers, broken clip if applicable and lube where the caliper piston meets the back of these pad
On fords people always do a big mistake the put the inside pad on the outside the one with ears go inside the straight ones are outside I made the same mistake fixed the error and it's a world of difference now the bite into the caliper and get stuck or only use the top to brake your mechanic just said that cause why teach you you error
Lol did this exact thing on my friends Ford flipped the pads around and fixed
I have been doing brakes forever. Bought every single after market product that’s out there.
Two things I’ve learned.
Brakes need to be broke in and in my experience don’t bother with after market products.
The engineers who made the car designed the braking system.
In my case I just go to the dealer parts department and buy the originals.
In the long run it’s cheaper and safer.
Yeah, until you find out that an outside company makes that product for them, and let's say Lexus, just upcharges for that same exact product.
Carbon ceramic brake pads I believe need to be prepped before use. Just go back to regular ceramic formula pads. Problem solved.
they did go through the bed in procedure in accordance with the guidelines Powerstop recommended. beyond that, just normal driving.
I called power stop about an hour ago to ask a few questions about cobra calipers and the guy was barely listening and after repeating myself the guy played stupid and hung up the phone. When I called back I got someone else that barely knew what a caliper was but he said he was just customer service and there was only one tech guy and I already dealt with him. I’ll pass. I wouldn’t waste my breath. I don’t order from companies like that. At all. And never will.
why is the rim upside down srache scache
If you don't adequately break them in, this happens. You can tell by the smell of the heated resin if it was done correctly.
Look at the glazing on the pads and how the rubber shims are melted where caliper contacts they were severely overheated and those drilled and slotted rotors eat pads fast you burnt the pads and made them brittle
bought a set of akebono for my 04 mach1 from rock auto. they looked old and dated full of dust. no hardware and no lube. sent an email to Akebono tech support. they said by the serial number they are an old compound no longer used. Also bought rotors for the mach from rockauto. They do not fit. They scrape the hub. Finally bought a set of powerstop and they are correct. have the correct offset. May just use the ceramic Carquest pads with the powerstop rotors.. Akebono and rockauto are not what they used to be.
I be wrong but it appeared you had the rotor on the wrong side. If that’s the case it could cause this issue also.
Looks correct to me if that is the front passenger side of the car in the video.
I agree, looks wrong to me.
Looks correct to me, You can see the top of the slot is pointing towards the rear of the vehicle. That way during rotation the gasses can be directed out from under the pads
same thing is happening on my 98 accord. just not as bad as yours.