How to diagnose TSDZ2 how to change blue plastic gear.
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Recently I met some TSDZ2 issues.
This video is about the latest and a little more help for diagnosing.
The walk assist mode is important for diagnosing. If it is not enabled yet we have to enter to the hidden menu on display. At VLCD-5 display press the "i" and "power on" buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds on the startup screen, then quick press the "i" button 4 times for hidden settings. At XH18 display press the "i" and "power on" buttons simultaneously for hidden menu. If the mode enabled we can switch on the motor with long pressing the "down" button.
For plastic gears use silicone based grease, because oil based grease can change the properties of the plastic.
Thank you, I watched this video before I disassembled my TSDZ2.
The best video explanation! I'm curious, you didn't add any grease on the blue wheel? And where it should be glued, in case you don't find it somewhere close by?
Thank you.
I could have made the video a bit more detailed.
I put the original gear back in, I thought the grease on it was enough. Plastics are porous and retain the lubricant quite well, which they slowly release. The new gears should be lubricated with some kind of synthetic-based grease. As e.g. the MOLYKOTE EM-50L.
It can be seen in my hand at 6:41, the splined cylinder itself is the metal hub in the blue gear, the freewheel is hanging out of it to the left. I roughened the inside of this splined hub with center punch and glued the freehub with Loctite 638 (hub glue). For gluing, superglue would probably do, but you have to work very quickly with that, otherwise the two things will stick together in the wrong position. The splined hub then needs to be inserted into the blue gear so that the freehub works correctly. There is also a mark on the freewheel, before disassembly you have to note which side of the gear the mark was visible on.
How can I get in contact with you? I have 2 questions about this mid drive motor, the guy who sold it to me, told me to wait until the blue gear is really damaged, but I guess I can fix it before that...
It's just the noise, too loud, the motor. It's running almost at the same power like before( 2 years ago, 20kg less) @@mcelec7603
Thank you for clear instructions.
Would have liked tomhave seen close-up of old blue gear teeth.
I'm glad it helped. In this case the blue gear was intact. The owner replaced the broken freewheel in the toothed gear recently, but the diameter of the new freewheel wasn't sufficient and it slipped in the metal hub of. Temporarily I roughened, cleaned and glued the freewheel into the hub with Loctite Retaining Compounds because the blue gear wasn't available.
Since then, the owner has bought the new gear, but the gluing has been working well ever since.
great video... what if the thumb throttle is not working (but the PAS and walking mode are)..?
Thank you!
I haven't installed a TSDZ2 with a thumb throttle yet, but I've encountered such a problem before. On one Kugo scooter, the sensor leg was broken in the throttle lever, on one e-bike the wire was broken at the base of the thumb throttle , and on another the connector had a contact fault. The TSDZ2 has pretty good connectors, so maybe the problem won't be there.
My motor runs fine, however it is very loud. It sounds like a "normal" electric motor, just very loud. Specially during the first couple of minutes of riding. Afterwards, I guess it warms up and quiets down some, but is still too loud for my liking. Is this motor usually loud? Anything that can be done about it?
How old is your TSDZ2? I bought the first one about 4 years ago, when the main gear and the reduction gear still had straight teeth. It already has 14,000 km on it, and it has a very unpleasant sound going uphill.
I already installed the helical gear ones last year, they are much quieter. A strong electric motor sound can be due to the looseness of the screws that hold the motor together, or due to a fault in the bearings. Anyway, it's interesting that it gets quieter as it warms up.
@@mihaleczkaroly5094 I fixed it! I simply tightened the 6x long screws that hold the motor together and it is whisper Quiet now. They didn't feel that loose except for maybe one so my hopes were not high, but it worked. I didn't even have to take the motor off, just the cover and the crank arm. Thanks!
@@cristian240sx Nice! Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you, the video is very helpful.
Excellent video this i will add to my saved playlist 🙂
Thx!
Merci pour votre vidéo très bien fait, j'ai réussi à changer ce pignon sur mon vélo électrique, même modèle de moteur.
Merci!
Cheers mate
where to buy the replacement for the Blue gear???
will i need to do the same for TSDZ2B ?
@@dablet From pswpower.com or from aliexpress.com.
The blue gear is different for TSDZ2B, because there is not freewheel inside.
I think You should use some em-50L grease on blues gear.
I didn't know it so far, so thanks for the idea. I read datasheet of EM-50L, and it's really perfect for plastic gears.
Where can I find EM-50L in a smaller quantity? Are there any good substitute for EM-50L?@@mcelec7603
So the blue plastic gear or the gear hub bearing that was worn? Would have been nice to see the worn out part.
In the case shown in the video, the freewheel in the hub of the blue gear slipped inside the hub. The hub was so worn out that the freewheel could fall out.
06:37 The grooved metal cylinder is the hub of the plastic gear. Unfortunately, you really can't see this in the video.
My problem with tsdz2b: walk assist sometimes works, sometimes not. When I pedal a few times the motor spins quickly for no reason and the pedals become hard. As if you were in a car, you misshift and the engine revs up. Thank you.
It seems as if the freewheel in the blue gears sometimes slips. If the situation in the freewheel improves after the shaft in the blue gear has been roughened with polishing paper and a few drops of oil have been applied, the complete gear or the freewheel should be replaced.
Upsz! I found answer in youtube video. I need to use piece of wood and hanner! ;)
for the price point do you consider the TSDZ2 reliable ?[not comparing it to the bosch]
I have been using the TSDZ2 for 8.000 km. I have had many minor problems with it and with my friends motor since then. This is a very cool development, but the torque sensor is a very poor design. I had to repair the torque sensor several times and even replace it once. My previous bike had a simple hub motor, never had a problem, but mid-motors with torque sensors give a more natural feel. So I recommend this if you are willing and able to fix it if you have a problem with it.
ua-cam.com/video/6KaWK-GvpVo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/ldJ4rTrNlC8/v-deo.html
Has visto un video de reparación de motores de bicicletas muy informativo
I saw a good video. Nice to meet you my good friend.
This is Seoul, Korea.
여기는 대한민국 서울입니다🇰🇷😁🇰🇷
Thanks my friend. Seoul is on my bucket list.
Excuse me! A queastion! How did you pull out the motor. I can not pull out! Please tell me your trick! Thanks!
As you can see at 05:50 I could pull out the motor without any tool. Maybe I was just lucky. Recently I dismounted another motor, it came out with the bearing at the end of the shaft. Probably the bearing could have got stuck in the housing in your case. I would suggest that you try to pull the engine out of position using a circular motion. If I remember correctly, there is no place to use a tool.
Hello! My cranks are stuck. It started to make weird noice and suddenly cranks just stopped. What could be the problem in my case? Thank you.
Hello! I would think the torque sensor might be broken. Does the walk assist mode work?
ua-cam.com/video/6KaWK-GvpVo/v-deo.html
My controller is turning on but no power to the motor. The motor does not even work in walk mode. I suspect blown mosfet. When removing motor cover their is a faint odor but everything looks fine. Any suggestions?
I thought a lot about how I would start. If the motor winding is shorted, then the controller's circuit protection should protect the controller. But if it's one or more of the mosfets that gets shorted, that could also destroy the motor, burn out the winding. The motor winding is quite difficult to measure because normal multimeters cannot measure such small resistances.
opensourceebikefirmware.bitbucket.io/development_tsdz2/About_Tongsheng_TSDZ2_mid_drive_motors--Motor.html
First, I would measure the mosfets (or change the whole controller) and inspect the winding of the motor. I have replaced bearings on many stepper motors in the past, as the rotor is made up of permanent magnets, it is not advisable to pull it out of the stator as the magnetic strength may weaken. While rotating the motor by hand or with a battery operated drill, an oscilloscope could be used to measure the voltage between the phase coils to see if they are in phase. If they are not the same, then there must be a shorted coil.
How did it go wrong? I do a lot of driving uphill in 30 degree heat and the aluminium housing of the controller is quite hot but it has held up until now.
Another interesting blog: www.electricbike.com/tsdz2-750w-mid-drive-torque-sensing/
Was there any grease on the new blue gear?
I repaired the old gear, (glued the freewheel into the hub) leaving a thin layer of grease on the gears. It's still working well.
If you buy a new gear, there will be no grease.
is it smart to use a throttle wiht this ebike motor?
There is a TSDZ2 version to which you can connect a throttle. I don't know up to what speed range it can be used, but it's definitely easier to start with the throttle. My old ebike had a throttle, that's why I think.
I have a new motor u just fitted , but have noticed a clicking sound when pedalling with motor on , turn motor off and pedal and its silent , what could this be ?
Sorry, this clicking noise is new for me. I'm assuming that it also appears in the walking assist mode. If so and this is the newer type of motor (TSDZ2-B), then you should remove the right crank arm, the chainring and the plastic cover under the chainring to see if you can see more.The TSDZ2-B no longer has a freewheel in the blue plastic gear, instead there are 2 sprag clutches in the large gear on the right side.
@mcelec7603 no only clicking when on mode 1 to 4 and of those power levels , but if on walking mode no clicking
I got the same problem, clicking sound only when pedalling on any assist. Turned off or throttle it does not happen.
@@ukaszjaworski9601 If you have found the reason, please write it down because I would be interested in the solution. Anyway, I'm thinking about it, what could be the problem.
@@mihaleczkaroly5094 ok sounds gone. I tighten cranks and all screws and motor works like new even thou I have 2400 km milage
How I can find the blue one from internet?
I 've bought a few things from pswvover.com, yet. However, if you search for "tsdz2 nylon gear" on Aliexpress, there will be plenty of results.
Why do made a nylon gear? Answer is: it’s a poor man motor overheating protection. When the motor’s coils get hot, magnets can be damaged. To avoid it - nylon gear. When temperature rises too much/too often (high gear ratios, high loads, etc) nylon gear/clutch in it smelts. That’s why when you go with brass gear you choose to install temperature sensor and program your controller to reduce power when temperature rises and cut it off, when it’s too high. I may be wrong, but that’s why the TDSZ2 is so cheap (by avoiding expensive parts and keeping things simple).
You are right, the neodymium magnets above 80 C degree begin to demagnetise irreversibly. So on long climbs, especially when the outside temperature is high, be careful not to overheat the motor. However, I have not worn the nylon gear a bit in 8000 km, even though my motor is only 350w. Another advantage of plastic gears is that they are quieter and do not wear out the gears on the motor shaft. The TSDZ2 is pretty good for how cheap it is. Under normal use, the shortest-lived part is the torque sensor, with thousands of miles on it as I explain in another video, and you can get a replacement part for around $100, and relatively easy to install it. Another reason for the cheapness may be, that I have encountered quite a few manufacturing defects. Rubbed wire on the torque sensor, badly glued slipping freehub and a loose freehub in the nylon gear. That's why it's OK to have a good mechanic or a warranty on your tsdz2.
A Brose, a Bosch, or a Yamaha motor is more reliable in quality, but much more expensive to purchase and can be repaired at an astronomical price if it can be repaired at all.