LOL...wheels are one of those things wherein the more you spend, the cooler they get....generally at least. If cost is no object, then BBS 3-piece racing wheels. But back down to planet earth, if you can afford them I think 3-piece wheels have some huge advantages. I decided I wanted to slightly change my rear offset for a variety of reasons after I already had bought wheels. So, all I had to buy was new rim sections and bolt them on. It wasn't cheap, but it was VASTLY cheaper than buying new wheels. Since you are looking for very specific offsets, I don't think you will have any choice but to order custom, but I imagine you know that. I am using Jongbloed wheels, and really couldn't be happier with them so far, bearing in mind I have not yet driven the car...or even started it. They have several models and can make them to any specs you want, but expect to wait 3 months at least to get them. All of the manufacturers of custom racing type wheels have some good/bad internet write ups, and after trying to deal with some of them, I can definitely see why. Great work again BTW!
That's a great point about multi piece wheels, makes me feel (at least a little) better about just going ahead with this offset. Out of pure curiosity, what wheel offsets and sizes did you land on with yours? Im looking at 17x9.5 -57 fronts and 17x11 -22 rears tentatively.. thanks for the kind words John! Which jongbloeds did you go with? I've had a few folks recommend them to me lately
Love this build. This widebody manufacturer made such a good move making the holes deliberately small so everyone could trim to the exact right fitment regardless of wheel size. Get that grinder out and get to work.
It's great having the flexibility, but I've already spent like an hour running tape lines and trying to visualize a profile that clears the wheels and doesn't ruin the profile of the body
@@GrindhousePerformance Haha, yeah it can be really annoying. I ran into similar problems designing my flares from scratch. I recommend starting out just trimming the bare minimum to where the wheels clear, and then once you know you what you have left, then try and smooth out the lines. Even if you screw it up like I did on one corner, we just get another episode "Fixing my widebody with some fiberglass" XD
Since you did all the hard work and some of us also have the 280YZ kit, would you mind sharing what wheel specs you measured and what you're going to go with? I have a rough idea what size wheel I'm going to order, but the wheel size, width, offset /backspacing would be super helpful!
I'm going to have to put a big asterisk on this. The apex engineered crossmember moves the lower control arms out, and I have the T3 control arms and camber plates also pushing them out. For the front, I'm planning on 17x9.5 with an offset between -50mm and -57mm. I want to recheck the fronts, because I might've been a little too aggressive after looking at some other 280yz installs. The rear is looking like 17x11 -22mm offset. I've seen people build similar wheel fitment tools out of 2x4's, you might have some luck starting there and fine tuning for your individual combination!
It's a a mix of what look you're going for, how you're using the car, and how the geometry shakes out with the parts you have. Not an exact science, but I wanted just under 4" ground clearance to the lowest spot on the car because it will get driven on the street. I put it closer to 4in to give a little room for the exhaust which inevitably wound up hanging a little lower. Also consider how to minimize bump steer within the adjustment. If adjusting the ride height improves bump steer within your target range, it's most likely worth it- although there's plenty of other ways to help bump steer. If the car's only seeing track use on circuits that don't have huge curbs, or if you don't mind scraping you might get away with going lower. It'll also depend a bit how soft your suspension is. Mine ia pretty stiff so I'm not expecting a ton of vertical suspension movement. Our roads are pretty bad here so I might wind up raising it a little more if it scrapes like mad
So you had 2.5 inches or -63mm offset I’m literally running the same setup 275/40/17 315/35/17 are you running a spacer? And do you have the retro fit 370z setup? that’s what I’d like to use with 14 inch rotors wildwood 4 maybe 6 piston brakes. Thinking of running a 30-35mm spacer the tire I chose is Toyo R888R I wanted the Nankang AR-1 but it doesn’t come in 275 only 255 for a 17” wheel
Hey Kenneth, after going back and forth a bunch, I ended up with: Front Wheels (Nitto NT01 275/40R17) Diameter: 17" Width: 9.5" Offset: -30mm Rear Wheels (Nitto NT01 315/35R17) Diameter: 17" Width: 11" Offset: -22mm As much as I loved the look of the crazy negative offsets, I was going to have to do some really severe cutting to the bodywork, and I was concerned at lock the tire would be contacting the back of the headlight bucket and part of the inner fender. The scrub radius on a -63mm wheel is pretty insane! Be on the lookout for the wheel episode to see what you think of the fitment of my specs. Im not running any spacers and im not using the 370z retrofit
@@GrindhousePerformance lol I’m literally going through the same thing. mind on 1000% I think I just need to pull the trigger and if I gotta get custom wheels I will. I feel like this is the best setup for track/hill climb setup. Don’t know if this will help www.zcarblog.com/2018/11/19/performance/james-240z-gets-new-wheels.html
The width offset vs backspacing always makes my head hurt. Your explanation is excellent but you made an assumption on the actual width versus nominal, 1/2" per side in your example. With that said you're probably close enough with that assumption for most applications. Anyway, great video!
Can you tell me how wide your front and rear axle width now are with the newer suspension bits? You know from Mounting surface-to-Mounting surface. Cuz i think a Datsun only has a axle width of 53" which is tiny so you got to run quite the negative offset.
What wheels do you think the Datsun should get??
Something very aggressive but yet classic maybe even something in the JDM styling
AVANT GARDE F242 maybe
Those are a great option !
LOL...wheels are one of those things wherein the more you spend, the cooler they get....generally at least. If cost is no object, then BBS 3-piece racing wheels.
But back down to planet earth, if you can afford them I think 3-piece wheels have some huge advantages. I decided I wanted to slightly change my rear offset for a variety of reasons after I already had bought wheels. So, all I had to buy was new rim sections and bolt them on. It wasn't cheap, but it was VASTLY cheaper than buying new wheels. Since you are looking for very specific offsets, I don't think you will have any choice but to order custom, but I imagine you know that. I am using Jongbloed wheels, and really couldn't be happier with them so far, bearing in mind I have not yet driven the car...or even started it. They have several models and can make them to any specs you want, but expect to wait 3 months at least to get them.
All of the manufacturers of custom racing type wheels have some good/bad internet write ups, and after trying to deal with some of them, I can definitely see why.
Great work again BTW!
That's a great point about multi piece wheels, makes me feel (at least a little) better about just going ahead with this offset. Out of pure curiosity, what wheel offsets and sizes did you land on with yours? Im looking at 17x9.5 -57 fronts and 17x11 -22 rears tentatively.. thanks for the kind words John! Which jongbloeds did you go with? I've had a few folks recommend them to me lately
This is my dream build. You are killing it man. Can't wait to see this completed.
Hey thanks for the kind words! This one's been a dream of mine for a long, long time. It's awesome seeing the build gaining traction!
Excellent, Another Awesome episode. Don't mind me, I'm just stealing ideas for my own build. Keep up the good work! It's coming along nicely.
Nothing wrong with that! 👍
Great series Dave!
I can't wait to see our wheels on your sick build!!
🤫🤫🤫🤫😘 you and me both!
Love this build. This widebody manufacturer made such a good move making the holes deliberately small so everyone could trim to the exact right fitment regardless of wheel size. Get that grinder out and get to work.
It's great having the flexibility, but I've already spent like an hour running tape lines and trying to visualize a profile that clears the wheels and doesn't ruin the profile of the body
@@GrindhousePerformance Haha, yeah it can be really annoying. I ran into similar problems designing my flares from scratch. I recommend starting out just trimming the bare minimum to where the wheels clear, and then once you know you what you have left, then try and smooth out the lines.
Even if you screw it up like I did on one corner, we just get another episode "Fixing my widebody with some fiberglass" XD
LMAO- good advice and you're absolutely right 🤘
You got this down, watch the subscribers grow!
Hey we've all gotta start somewhere! Thank you
I dig your music choices, would be awesome if you could share the tracks in the video description. Thanks.
FINALLY
I've been able to clear up some major commitments meaning a lot more time to get new videos to you guys! It'll all be worth the wait, I promise!
I ❤️ this so much!
Thanks Matthew!
Since you did all the hard work and some of us also have the 280YZ kit, would you mind sharing what wheel specs you measured and what you're going to go with? I have a rough idea what size wheel I'm going to order, but the wheel size, width, offset /backspacing would be super helpful!
I'm going to have to put a big asterisk on this. The apex engineered crossmember moves the lower control arms out, and I have the T3 control arms and camber plates also pushing them out. For the front, I'm planning on 17x9.5 with an offset between -50mm and -57mm. I want to recheck the fronts, because I might've been a little too aggressive after looking at some other 280yz installs. The rear is looking like 17x11 -22mm offset. I've seen people build similar wheel fitment tools out of 2x4's, you might have some luck starting there and fine tuning for your individual combination!
When you Jack or load the suspension to ride height. How do you know when to stop or what the correct height is
It's a a mix of what look you're going for, how you're using the car, and how the geometry shakes out with the parts you have. Not an exact science, but I wanted just under 4" ground clearance to the lowest spot on the car because it will get driven on the street. I put it closer to 4in to give a little room for the exhaust which inevitably wound up hanging a little lower. Also consider how to minimize bump steer within the adjustment. If adjusting the ride height improves bump steer within your target range, it's most likely worth it- although there's plenty of other ways to help bump steer. If the car's only seeing track use on circuits that don't have huge curbs, or if you don't mind scraping you might get away with going lower. It'll also depend a bit how soft your suspension is. Mine ia pretty stiff so I'm not expecting a ton of vertical suspension movement. Our roads are pretty bad here so I might wind up raising it a little more if it scrapes like mad
So you had 2.5 inches or -63mm offset I’m literally running the same setup 275/40/17
315/35/17 are you running a spacer? And do you have the retro fit 370z setup? that’s what I’d like to use with 14 inch rotors wildwood 4 maybe 6 piston brakes. Thinking of running a 30-35mm spacer the tire I chose is Toyo R888R I wanted the Nankang AR-1 but it doesn’t come in 275 only 255 for a 17” wheel
Hey Kenneth, after going back and forth a bunch, I ended up with:
Front Wheels (Nitto NT01 275/40R17)
Diameter: 17"
Width: 9.5"
Offset: -30mm
Rear Wheels (Nitto NT01 315/35R17)
Diameter: 17"
Width: 11"
Offset: -22mm
As much as I loved the look of the crazy negative offsets, I was going to have to do some really severe cutting to the bodywork, and I was concerned at lock the tire would be contacting the back of the headlight bucket and part of the inner fender. The scrub radius on a -63mm wheel is pretty insane! Be on the lookout for the wheel episode to see what you think of the fitment of my specs. Im not running any spacers and im not using the 370z retrofit
@@GrindhousePerformance lol I’m literally going through the same thing. mind on 1000% I think I just need to pull the trigger and if I gotta get custom wheels I will. I feel like this is the best setup for track/hill climb setup. Don’t know if this will help www.zcarblog.com/2018/11/19/performance/james-240z-gets-new-wheels.html
What’s the name of the tool? Where do I buy it.
The one I used is from "the wheel fit" and is their 45 Pro model. There are similar tools available now on Amazon that I haven't tried though. 👍
if you ran 16" you might be able to get away with no cutting plus they would still fit that big brake kit!
Not a bad thought, I don't mind cutting, but I did ease off a little on the offsets to hopefully help everything fit
The width offset vs backspacing always makes my head hurt. Your explanation is excellent but you made an assumption on the actual width versus nominal, 1/2" per side in your example. With that said you're probably close enough with that assumption for most applications.
Anyway, great video!
Those tyres are much larger diameter, it looks like a Mexican lowrider setup
Can you tell me how wide your front and rear axle width now are with the newer suspension bits? You know from Mounting surface-to-Mounting surface.
Cuz i think a Datsun only has a axle width of 53" which is tiny so you got to run quite the negative offset.
Axle widths are ~55" front, 56" rear as it sits 👍