Great video. We found we could do the job without cutting the frame. We had a good selection of tools and a bit of patience. Extra long nosed straight circlip pliers and a set of long seal picks were essential. Thanks for the video👍🏻
I have done several of these on the 445 and 455 and I found that saving the best used o ring and putting it on first followed by the 2 new O rings gives the best results. There is just enough room for 3 O rings and gives the best seal. I've done 6 of these repairs and had no problems. You're also correct on cutting a hole in the frame. Makes the whole job so much easier.
It can be done without cutting a hole in the frame. Rotate the snap ring so the holes are facing towards the rear and use a pair of snap ring pliers with the grips removed from the handles. I've done it a couple times successfully. You can actually get three O ring packings in there as well, which makes for a tighter seal.
Rusty Glovebox thanks for stopping by! This tractor sat for a couple of years before I rebuilt it...so considering it is 20+ years old, I guess I can expect to put a few 3 dollar o-rings on here and there.
Great video very well done. I have the same problem with my 425. Could you please let me know the part number for the packing replacement (O rings and washer)? I’m having trouble locating the part number. Thanks!
Larry Musick go on-Line to the John Deere Parts Catalog and drill down into the catalog. partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/73515/referrer/navigation/pgId/2349663 CH17653 O-ring Qty of 2 Required M806139 Washer Qty of 1 - Should be able to use the old o
Mackenzie Grant not hard to remove and replace the seal. The seal is actually made up up two thick o-rings. I highly recommend circling circle cutting the hole in the frame to allow you to access the lever and seal.
@@JunkyardTailgate Nice video. I plan on ending up with a 455 to park next to my 430 and will reference this video if I have this problem, However wouldn't cutting up the frame decrease the value of the tractor?
Dave Rahrig they fit over the shaft and are installed into housing. There are two o-rings required back to back. They are nearly impossible to get out without cutting them our. I used an ice pick type too with a little crook on the end of it to dig them out. Eventually cut them but that does not matter. Going back in it is easy to push them in with your fingers, then took a blunt flat screw drivers to sort of push the o-rings into the housing I’ve the shaft.
Richard Stamper yep....in my case I removed the fender in my quest to find the leak. I thought it was coming from the vent area but turned out it was the diff lock shaft seal.
I changed oil and filter in transaxle then mine started leaking but don’t know where but my reverse pedal seems to be sticking up much higher when full forward is applied.
Great video. We found we could do the job without cutting the frame. We had a good selection of tools and a bit of patience. Extra long nosed straight circlip pliers and a set of long seal picks were essential.
Thanks for the video👍🏻
I have done several of these on the 445 and 455 and I found that saving the best used o ring and putting it on first followed by the 2 new O rings gives the best results. There is just enough room for 3 O rings and gives the best seal. I've done 6 of these repairs and had no problems. You're also correct on cutting a hole in the frame. Makes the whole job so much easier.
Richard Stamper good to know it will hold 3 O-rings. If mine leaks again I will try that trick.
Thank you for that tip. I think I'm gonna squeeze a third on there and see if that fixes the leak
Wow! NICE WORK!!! Saved me a lot of trouble finding it.
Great watch. Did not know about parts advisor at Deere web sight. Thank you.
It can be done without cutting a hole in the frame. Rotate the snap ring so the holes are facing towards the rear and use a pair of snap ring pliers with the grips removed from the handles. I've done it a couple times successfully. You can actually get three O ring packings in there as well, which makes for a tighter seal.
Nice work checking the leak out and finding your parts
Rusty Glovebox thanks for stopping by! This tractor sat for a couple of years before I rebuilt it...so considering it is 20+ years old, I guess I can expect to put a few 3 dollar o-rings on here and there.
Great video very well done. I have the same problem with my 425. Could you please let me know the part number for the packing replacement (O rings and washer)? I’m having trouble locating the part number. Thanks!
Larry Musick go on-Line to the John Deere Parts Catalog and drill down into the catalog. partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/73515/referrer/navigation/pgId/2349663
CH17653 O-ring Qty of 2 Required
M806139 Washer Qty of 1 - Should be able to use the old o
Thank you for all your help. I greatly appreciate it!
Have you ever had to replace the seal around the pto shaft in the transaxle?
Thank you so much! This is where my 425 leak is. Just found it tonight. Was it hard to remove & install the old seal?
Mackenzie Grant not hard to remove and replace the seal. The seal is actually made up up two thick o-rings. I highly recommend circling circle cutting the hole in the frame to allow you to access the lever and seal.
@@JunkyardTailgate Nice video. I plan on ending up with a 455 to park next to my 430 and will reference this video if I have this problem, However wouldn't cutting up the frame decrease the value of the tractor?
Do these o rings seat in the housing or do they just fit around the shaft? And how do you get them out?
Dave Rahrig they fit over the shaft and are installed into housing. There are two o-rings required back to back. They are nearly impossible to get out without cutting them our. I used an ice pick type too with a little crook on the end of it to dig them out. Eventually cut them but that does not matter. Going back in it is easy to push them in with your fingers, then took a blunt flat screw drivers to sort of push the o-rings into the housing I’ve the shaft.
Also not necessary to remove the fender deck. Just remove the tire.
Richard Stamper yep....in my case I removed the fender in my quest to find the leak. I thought it was coming from the vent area but turned out it was the diff lock shaft seal.
I changed oil and filter in transaxle then mine started leaking but don’t know where but my reverse pedal seems to be sticking up much higher when full forward is applied.
I have a 235 john deer tractor that is leaking fluid in the back down below seat. What could be the leak
Oh man you do a good job explaining the process. Could you contact me and let me bounce a few ideas of you? Could use your help?
Do you have a part # for the rings or size
CH17653 You don't have to chop your tractor up.
It never rains but it pours, eh?
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man well said! If it’s not one thing it’s your mother-in-law.
Wait a minute, wait a minute. My mother in law says when it rains it pours is Morton Salt and not John Deere.