I have a 445. I have two good transaxles. Both need seals. This is the best video I’ve see for the transaxle. Outstanding. No talking except when needed. Great parts description in the comments so I could order the parts. 😅
Thank you Daniel for recording, editing and posting this video. Helped me tremendously in narrowing down my leak on left side and getting Diff. Lock seal - M806040 from dealer and replacing myself.
what ended up being the leak on your rear end? I Have a 425 that is leaking on the left side as well, and my suspicion is the differential lock seal. But I can't really see up there.
Ultimately I really don't know, there was a lot of oil so I figured as long as i was going to remove the whole assembly I might as well replace the aging seals.@@flyweed
Dang it, my 425 was slipping, took it out, apart, found one case plate was broken where the right bearing is. Replaced the side case. Less then an hour later started again. Looks like I'm digging deeper this time. Great video.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I've been dreading this task, putting it off. But now, I have to make these repairs on mine !!. I Can't afford to pay the stealerships outrageous repair cost. It's time to rip it apart & cut some grass.
It was good to see you pull the transaxle out and pull so many parts off for resealing. I've never seen the K91 pulled down so much. It takes a lot of the mystery out of it. I may have to pull my 445 apart this much. Thank you for showing this to us.
Thank you for making this video! Super helpful with all the part numbers and how to replace them all. I'm in the process now of doing all the rear end seals and gaskets on my 455 thanks to this video. Hope if finishes as well as yours!
This is a great video. I was able to replace the O rings on the right side of mine without pulling the transaxle. It's tight but doable. Thanks for the video.
Good video. My Differential lock won't disengage. Was hoping to see a little more of it in here but I will just have to dig into it. Once you had an AWS you would have the old style.
Thank you so much for this video. I did the whole thing to my 455. The only problem I had was, the inner snap ring on the shaft below the pump shaft got bent when I took the cover off. I ended up having to take the bearing out of the cover and putting the inner snap ring on after putting the cover back on. It was no big deal. I have zero leaks.
Great video, thanks. At 26:30 I found it much easier to remove the bracket since my seal would not clear the bracket without mashing it. I took it completely off since mine wasn't as clean as yours. It was about 5°F so I didn't feel like taking it outside to pressure wash it. I think just loosening the 2 bolts would be enough. My seal was just hanging on the shaft, not seated at all. So I wanted to get in there and clean the seat real good. Thanks again for the great video.
Did a 445 or 455 deisle rider. Had to do the line from steering motor over to the hydraulic box dodad. And the lines were a good inch and half off were bends were supposed to. But I made it happen
Very helpful, replaced my packings on right side threw the frame. but HELP! New trans filter will not thread. 3rd one home from JD dealer… it threads w/o gasket but with on my bolt wont catch filter threads :||
Great Video. It is much appreciated. Would you happen to have any torque specifications for tightening bolts. It looks like you were using a torque wrench.
Hey, great and informative video. I am the owner of a JD455 recently and I have problems with oil leaks, so I would have to change the seals. My problem is that I don't know where to order these original parts because no one will send them to Europe (Croatia), I could buy replacement parts, so I'm wondering if they are good and if they are the same dimensions. I would also order them from the USA because we don't have those parts here. Thanks for your help. Greetings😉😊
Certainly you can get some of the Deere parts on ebay, but it might help you to know many of the parts are the very same as the Tuff Torq K91 unit. Therefore parts for a K91 should also work. In fact you should be able to find a free K92 service manual pdf online. The pictures are very helpful, and I used it in addition to the Deere books.
Thanks for a Great video. I have a leak from the front of my k 91 either the motor or the valve body gasket. I was hesitant to take them off because when you look at the parts diagram it seems overwhelming - like a hundred tiny pieces could come falling out. Any thing I should be aware of when I remove those 3 main components of the front assembly?
Good luck! For me, tilting the whole axle backward a bit helped to work on the front, and a.so the removal of the components. During reassembly, it was necessary to tilt everything forwards, to keep all of the motor parts from falling to the ground. Other than that, the residual oil kept most everything together.
Great video & a wealth of information. Maybe I’m over thinking but there were 7 orings included in AM878565, but the charge pump only needs 6. Where does the 7th go, it’s approximately 5/8” OD, 0.080” thick.
Daniel, I have a 425 and I need a rear axel. If by chance you have an extra one laying around. My drive shaft U joint for the deck come apart and the transmission part flopped around and now it leaks real bad, and I can't find out where. I live in Western Kentucky can you help me?
I do not personally have those parts, but rear axles and complete assemblies can commonly be found on Craigslist. Also right now on ebay there are several available for around $50.
My 445 has a leak on the petal side. I just kept putting more fluid in it when it got low until snow season ended I planned on fixing it but now it won’t move or do anything after a few minutes. Did I ruin the pump or charge pump? I’d like to get it running again.
Anyone else have any trouble with the forward/reverse action after connecting it back up? It looks like there is only one way this arm at 24:56 connects. It went on fine but now that I am hooking up the linkage, it only moves for reverse. Forward seems to be frozen. Does the damper need to be adjusted or anything? The linkage lines right back up just like when I disconnected it. I'm so close to being done, just this last problem!
Interesting issue. You may want to try asking on the mytractorforum, under John Deere garden tractors: www.mytractorforum.com/forums/john-deere-forum.12/
Mine did same thing..lotta work to snatch out tuff tourque rearend..had dealer swap seals after i disassemble d .not a job for shadtree mechs .lol. great machine!! If vent plugs, itll blow out seals..
It could be performed in a day. Of course it took much longer to source all the parts, and create a video of it, so probably a week for me. But an actual day's worth of work.
Thanks so much for doing this video !! i have a JD 425 AWS 1996 . having trouble adjusting the governor after i replaced the carburetor . when i engage the PTO switch to run the deck i haven't enough power ? any tips ?
Although the 445 is fuel injected, I would imagine the governor arrangement is similar to the 425, and I seem to remember the internal governor gear is plastic, so might be the culprit if it has failed. You might try searching or posting in the John Deere section of mytractorforum to see if others have had similar issues, and good luck!
Replaced all these gaskets and put everything back together. I may have missed something though. My hydraulic levers work and power steering. What doesn’t work is the forward or reverse. Seems like something is locked on the transaxle. When the machine is off, I can still push it around manually though. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I am experiencing the exact same issue of no fwd/reverse after replacing all of the seals from the video. When i hit either pedal i have hydraulic whine and it bogs the motor. If its air in the system how do i bleed it?
@@Shaggy-nn4xf you described exactly what I was experiencing. The bearings in the motor case assembly were not clicked on to the cage. So when I installed the bearings/cage loosely, the bearings came off the cage and wedged themselves in. I had to replace the piston assembly and also the motor case because they got damaged. Whatever you do, don’t keep trying to force the fwd pedal!
@@Shaggy-nn4xf I’m more than happy to give you more detail over the phone or email. This took me such a long time to diagnose. Maybe I can save you some time.
For Permatex Aviation gasket, you apply several light coats to each surface, and allow a few minutes for it to dry to a tack before assembling. I would recommend 24 hours for a complete cure before operating. Unfortunately there is no brake cover gasket on the left side.
Yes, that is probably the first seal to fail of them all - on the left side where the brake linkage and diff-lock enters the casing. Diff. Lock seal - M806040 Brake shaft o-ring - CH10570
39:28 Are the tips of the snap ring still on the lower shaft bent after removal of the motor case housing? The housing required me to use a pulley puller to remove it, leaving the snap ring bent. Not sure how to handle this for reassembly.
Interesting. I did not need a gear puller, but in your case if the tips were bent during disassembly it would probably be wise to go ahead and replace the rings too.
@@danielraible I'm actually stuck at this point too. I can't get the cone off. I removed the large outer snap ring and the smaller inner snap ring that covers the bearing race. Is there something else? The cone pops out about 1/2 inch but can't get it to come any further. Is something lined up on the shaft that catches? I don't want to use a puller if it will damage anything. I saw in the video you set down two more rings after the large snap ring. Is that a washer or something? I don't see it in mine. Thanks for any insight.
Actually, I did take the smaller snap ring and flat washer out of cone. It pops forward and is loose from the body and will even spin 360 degrees around. It just seems like possibly the bearing race is caught on the groove the smaller snap ring sets into. I've been tugging and shifting it for quite a while and it doesn't seem to want to come off. It looks like it nearly just popped off for you. Very confused.
Just for anyone else having the same issue Alex and I had, here's what I found: For whatever reason when Daniel pulled his apart at this point, it just slid right off of the shaft. Mine didn't. There are two small snap rings on that shaft, not including the large one outside of the bearing race. You can see he is able to remove and reinstall the cone with that snap ring still in place midway down the shaft. Maybe some have a smaller opening in the end of the cone? It destroyed the snap ring coming off so I had to replace it. Part number 40M1823. For reassembly, I had to remove the bearings and washer, reinstall the cone, then put the snap ring on followed by washer, then bearings, then the second washer and second snap ring. Maybe it's a difference in 4WD vs 2WD? Not sure why it was so different. Hope that helps someone. Go ahead buy two snap rings while you're buying all of the gaskets. I couldn't see the inner snap ring while removing, not to mention be able to disengage it. I'm just routinely unlucky where it doesn't seem to go for me like it does in the videos I follow!
@@lorenjohnbailey6445 After the smaller shaft snap ring, there should be a washer, followed by the ball bearing, another washer and then a final snap ring on the motor shaft.
I know I had maintained the gear orientation in mine during reassembly, but it may not matter. There are a lot of seals in the charge pump, so it may be that one either fell out or got pinched. Here is a service manual for the Tuff-Torq K-92 which should show better illustrations of the parts: www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/45064883/k92-service-manual-pdf-tuff-torq-parts
Long shoot here with this being a year old. I am having this exact same issue. I do not have pressure to anything after doing this. How did you fix this issue? Thanks in advance.
I just did this too. My hydraulics work but the tractor doesn’t go forward or reverse. When I push the forward pedal it sounds like the pump is dead heading. Like something is locked.
I tried to order the parts as kits where I could, and probably spend somewhere around $130, plus the added costs of replacement oil and filter. This job was more about spending the time.
Correct, there was no gasket indicated for that location in the Deere literature, so I just used some Permatex aviation form-a-gasket. The K91 transmission manual states "Apply a bead of silicon sealant to brake cover mating surface of transaxle case.", so that is an option as well.
My only complaint was there was literally no volume. I tried other videos and they all were very loud and had to be turn down. 🙉Hear No Evil ? Otherwise Your Tutorial was GREAT!
Wow. what a great video. I have a leak somewhere over on the left side of my 425 rear end. Thinking either the brake seal, or the rear differential lock seal. Don't suppose you are in Wisconsin are you? LOL...I'd hire you to do mine. You did such a great job.
Thanks for the awesome video. Went ahead and transcribed those part numbers for anybody who needs to order. FWD/REV o-rings (2) - CH17653 Diff. Lock seal - M806040 Brake shaft o-ring - CH10570 Valve body gasket - M809659 Hydrostat motor gasket - M806066 Hydrostat seal cap - M806073 Pump o-ring kit - AM878565 Input shaft seal - M806119 Mid-PTO shaft seal - CH14765 There's also a nice thread here that I came across when I was searching for this procedure: www.greentractortalk.com/threads/john-deere-425-k91-transmission-seals-rebuild.199976/
Trying to pull the transaxle out of my 455, do you have to disconnect the driveshaft from the front? The three screws, hate to pull things apart I can’t get back together Thanks
@@ronlegois8152 Believe what you are looking for is @18:18 You simply need to remove the bolt through the U-joint and the splined sections will seperate
@@ronlegois8152 Once you raise up the rear of the frame, and let down the transaxle by removing the electrical & control connections and 4 main bolts, the rear of the driveshaft will easily slip off the transaxle splined shaft once the u-joint bolts are loosened. It comes off very easily from the rear.
This has to be the best how-to/repair video I have ever seen. Thanks for this!
Thank you, hope it helps!
I have a 445. I have two good transaxles. Both need seals.
This is the best video I’ve see for the transaxle. Outstanding. No talking except when needed. Great parts description in the comments so I could order the parts. 😅
Thanks!
Thank you Daniel for recording, editing and posting this video. Helped me tremendously in narrowing down my leak on left side and getting Diff. Lock seal - M806040 from dealer and replacing myself.
Very glad to hear!
what ended up being the leak on your rear end? I Have a 425 that is leaking on the left side as well, and my suspicion is the differential lock seal. But I can't really see up there.
Ultimately I really don't know, there was a lot of oil so I figured as long as i was going to remove the whole assembly I might as well replace the aging seals.@@flyweed
Dang it, my 425 was slipping, took it out, apart, found one case plate was broken where the right bearing is. Replaced the side case. Less then an hour later started again. Looks like I'm digging deeper this time. Great video.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I've been dreading this task, putting it off. But now, I have to make these repairs on mine !!. I Can't afford to pay the stealerships outrageous repair cost. It's time to rip it apart & cut some grass.
I agree with you a.c...!
Please tell us how it went and if your JD is a 445. Thanks!
Good luck, I can't imagine what the labor fee would be, but whatever it is I don't have it haha.
It was good to see you pull the transaxle out and pull so many parts off for resealing. I've never seen the K91 pulled down so much. It takes a lot of the mystery out of it. I may have to pull my 445 apart this much. Thank you for showing this to us.
Speak up can't hear you man
Many Many thanks for this video. I have the same leaking problem and your work help me a lot.
Thank you for making this video! Super helpful with all the part numbers and how to replace them all. I'm in the process now of doing all the rear end seals and gaskets on my 455 thanks to this video. Hope if finishes as well as yours!
Great, good luck!
This is a great video. I was able to replace the O rings on the right side of mine without pulling the transaxle. It's tight but doable. Thanks for the video.
Very glad to hear. It is a bit tight working conditions, but can be done with a steady hand while in the frame.
Really helpful. Thanks.
Note - John Deere O-Ring - CH10570 has been replaced by John Deere O-Ring - MIU804787
Great, thank you! I updated the parts list.
Thankyou for the video. I obtained a 425 and am in process of learning its ways. Your work is surgeon quality!
Good video. My Differential lock won't disengage. Was hoping to see a little more of it in here but I will just have to dig into it. Once you had an AWS you would have the old style.
Thank you so much for this video. I did the whole thing to my 455. The only problem I had was, the inner snap ring on the shaft below the pump shaft got bent when I took the cover off. I ended up having to take the bearing out of the cover and putting the inner snap ring on after putting the cover back on. It was no big deal. I have zero leaks.
Awesome, glad to hear it worked out!
very good work. thanks from france
Thank you!
Great video, thanks. At 26:30 I found it much easier to remove the bracket since my seal would not clear the bracket without mashing it. I took it completely off since mine wasn't as clean as yours. It was about 5°F so I didn't feel like taking it outside to pressure wash it. I think just loosening the 2 bolts would be enough. My seal was just hanging on the shaft, not seated at all. So I wanted to get in there and clean the seat real good. Thanks again for the great video.
I agree, that bracket should be removed to avoid pinching/kinking the replacement seal. Glad it helped!
Thank you for the details in how you replaced the seals!
Did a 445 or 455 deisle rider. Had to do the line from steering motor over to the hydraulic box dodad. And the lines were a good inch and half off were bends were supposed to. But I made it happen
Lines were from JD even.
Quite a job. Beyond my capability and that of my mechanics as well I think.
Well done. The sound is hard to hear. Other than that, one of the best video's I've found.
Excellent video sir. Well done
Thank you for an outstanding presentation. My internet provider (Charter/Spectrum) is taking forever to load!
Nice video, answered all my questions, Thanks
Thank you for this video. Could you share what you used for what looks like a fluid applied gasket?
I should have searched the comments better, seems it is Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket
Permatex's Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Liquid Sealant
Very helpful, replaced my packings on right side threw the frame. but HELP! New trans filter will not thread. 3rd one home from JD dealer… it threads w/o gasket but with on my bolt wont catch filter threads :||
Great Video. It is much appreciated. Would you happen to have any torque specifications for tightening bolts. It looks like you were using a torque wrench.
Thank you. The bolt torques will vary depending upon location, but in general the main case bolts all require 25 Nm.
Hey, great and informative video. I am the owner of a JD455 recently and I have problems with oil leaks, so I would have to change the seals. My problem is that I don't know where to order these original parts because no one will send them to Europe (Croatia), I could buy replacement parts, so I'm wondering if they are good and if they are the same dimensions. I would also order them from the USA because we don't have those parts here. Thanks for your help. Greetings😉😊
Certainly you can get some of the Deere parts on ebay, but it might help you to know many of the parts are the very same as the Tuff Torq K91 unit. Therefore parts for a K91 should also work. In fact you should be able to find a free K92 service manual pdf online. The pictures are very helpful, and I used it in addition to the Deere books.
Thanks for a Great video. I have a leak from the front of my k 91 either the motor or the valve body gasket. I was hesitant to take them off because when you look at the parts diagram it seems overwhelming - like a hundred tiny pieces could come falling out. Any thing I should be aware of when I remove those 3 main components of the front assembly?
Good luck! For me, tilting the whole axle backward a bit helped to work on the front, and a.so the removal of the components. During reassembly, it was necessary to tilt everything forwards, to keep all of the motor parts from falling to the ground. Other than that, the residual oil kept most everything together.
Nice seat
I've watched this 3 times, and I'm still scared to tear into my 455 :( What is that book you're using that shows the exploded view of the tractor?
There are two books, the factory service and parts manuals.
Great video & a wealth of information. Maybe I’m over thinking but there were 7 orings included in AM878565, but the charge pump only needs 6. Where does the 7th go, it’s approximately 5/8” OD, 0.080” thick.
I just double checked in the parts catalog, and it only shows 6 seals required for the charge pump, and not 7.
Great step-by-step illustration but I think I missed the part number for the new cap on the hydrostatic motor that you drilled out to remove.
Thanks for the catch, I had to look it up again. Part # M806073
What is the gasket grease you’re using? Thx!!
Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid, can be obtained from Napa and others, especially good for the brake cover which has no gasket.
Maybe little off topic, but does your deck has a mulch kit? Just curious because the end result of mowing is fabulous !
Thanks, and actually no mulch kit. I just do the standard deck adjustment from the manual, and keep the blades sharp.
Daniel, I have a 425 and I need a rear axel. If by chance you have an extra one laying around. My drive shaft U joint for the deck come apart and the transmission part flopped around and now it leaks real bad, and I can't find out where. I live in Western Kentucky can you help me?
I do not personally have those parts, but rear axles and complete assemblies can commonly be found on Craigslist. Also right now on ebay there are several available for around $50.
Great video! Was a lot of help! What seat do you have?
It is a seat from the newer X700 series tractors. They are expensive, but regularly turn up for good deals on ebay.
My 445 has a leak on the petal side. I just kept putting more fluid in it when it got low until snow season ended I planned on fixing it but now it won’t move or do anything after a few minutes. Did I ruin the pump or charge pump? I’d like to get it running again.
I have the seals btw
Anyone else have any trouble with the forward/reverse action after connecting it back up? It looks like there is only one way this arm at 24:56 connects. It went on fine but now that I am hooking up the linkage, it only moves for reverse. Forward seems to be frozen. Does the damper need to be adjusted or anything? The linkage lines right back up just like when I disconnected it. I'm so close to being done, just this last problem!
Interesting issue. You may want to try asking on the mytractorforum, under John Deere garden tractors: www.mytractorforum.com/forums/john-deere-forum.12/
what did you use to seal mating surfaces?
Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid, can be obtained from Napa and others, especially good for the brake cover which has no gasket.
@@danielraible Thank you Daniel!
Mine did same thing..lotta work to snatch out tuff tourque rearend..had dealer swap seals after i disassemble d .not a job for shadtree mechs .lol. great machine!! If vent plugs, itll blow out seals..
How long did the whole process take?
It could be performed in a day. Of course it took much longer to source all the parts, and create a video of it, so probably a week for me. But an actual day's worth of work.
Excellent video, thank you. Is the hydraulic system self-bleeding after refill? Sorry if I missed this mentioned in the video or comments section.
Thanks, and yes the 425/445/455 are self bleeding. Just operate the drive, lift and steering a bit after refill, and recheck the level.
Thanks so much for doing this video !! i have a JD 425 AWS 1996 . having trouble adjusting the governor after i replaced the carburetor . when i engage the PTO switch to run the deck i haven't enough power ? any tips ?
Although the 445 is fuel injected, I would imagine the governor arrangement is similar to the 425, and I seem to remember the internal governor gear is plastic, so might be the culprit if it has failed. You might try searching or posting in the John Deere section of mytractorforum to see if others have had similar issues, and good luck!
Hi, where did you buy that book?
That is the Service Manual and Parts manual, both can be ordered from the dealer.
What is the sealant that’s brushed on? Is it used on both gasketed and non gasketed surfaces?
I typically use Permatex Aviation Gasket on mating surfaces, including gaskets.
@@danielraible ok thank you. Great video, me and my son are going to tackle the whole job together soon on his.
@@VALERIO919 Great, and good luck!
Replaced all these gaskets and put everything back together. I may have missed something though. My hydraulic levers work and power steering. What doesn’t work is the forward or reverse. Seems like something is locked on the transaxle. When the machine is off, I can still push it around manually though. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
It could be several things, 2 I would check for first are possible air in the system, or the safety switch is disconnected or broken.
I am experiencing the exact same issue of no fwd/reverse after replacing all of the seals from the video. When i hit either pedal i have hydraulic whine and it bogs the motor. If its air in the system how do i bleed it?
@@Shaggy-nn4xf you described exactly what I was experiencing. The bearings in the motor case assembly were not clicked on to the cage. So when I installed the bearings/cage loosely, the bearings came off the cage and wedged themselves in. I had to replace the piston assembly and also the motor case because they got damaged. Whatever you do, don’t keep trying to force the fwd pedal!
@@Shaggy-nn4xf I’m more than happy to give you more detail over the phone or email. This took me such a long time to diagnose. Maybe I can save you some time.
@@thomasubi8100 Thanks. I'm going to pull the motor case off again and investigate.
What kind of gasket maker are you using? Same on everything? Even dressing the gaskets?
I've been using Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on everything, with good success.
What is the sealing compound you are using? Permatex?
Yes, Permatex aviation sealant.
Do I half to let sealant dry how long before reassembly ? And how long before use? And there no gasket on left side ?
For Permatex Aviation gasket, you apply several light coats to each surface, and allow a few minutes for it to dry to a tack before assembling. I would recommend 24 hours for a complete cure before operating. Unfortunately there is no brake cover gasket on the left side.
Very nice video!
Great vid, what tire brand and size are on the rear?
For the rears I went with 26x12.200-12 Carlisle 2 Ply HD Field Trax tires with 24,26x12.00-12 Rubber Master Tubes with TR-13 valve stems.
18x8.50-8 Vredestein 6 Ply V61 Heavy Duty 5-Rib tires for the front, with Rubber Master 18x8.50/9.50-8 Tube with TR-13 valve stems.
Question, When you use the break to keep it from rolling once I use that it starts the leaks bad... where would that issue be?
Yes, that is probably the first seal to fail of them all - on the left side where the brake linkage and diff-lock enters the casing. Diff. Lock seal - M806040
Brake shaft o-ring - CH10570
@@danielraible I appreciate that. I plan on just redoing all of it, but at least I know that it is not some random thing all around.
Where did you get your parts catalog
I had ordered it from the local dealer a few years ago.
39:28 Are the tips of the snap ring still on the lower shaft bent after removal of the motor case housing? The housing required me to use a pulley puller to remove it, leaving the snap ring bent. Not sure how to handle this for reassembly.
Interesting. I did not need a gear puller, but in your case if the tips were bent during disassembly it would probably be wise to go ahead and replace the rings too.
@@danielraible I'm actually stuck at this point too. I can't get the cone off. I removed the large outer snap ring and the smaller inner snap ring that covers the bearing race. Is there something else? The cone pops out about 1/2 inch but can't get it to come any further. Is something lined up on the shaft that catches? I don't want to use a puller if it will damage anything. I saw in the video you set down two more rings after the large snap ring. Is that a washer or something? I don't see it in mine. Thanks for any insight.
Actually, I did take the smaller snap ring and flat washer out of cone. It pops forward and is loose from the body and will even spin 360 degrees around. It just seems like possibly the bearing race is caught on the groove the smaller snap ring sets into. I've been tugging and shifting it for quite a while and it doesn't seem to want to come off. It looks like it nearly just popped off for you. Very confused.
Just for anyone else having the same issue Alex and I had, here's what I found:
For whatever reason when Daniel pulled his apart at this point, it just slid right off of the shaft. Mine didn't. There are two small snap rings on that shaft, not including the large one outside of the bearing race. You can see he is able to remove and reinstall the cone with that snap ring still in place midway down the shaft. Maybe some have a smaller opening in the end of the cone? It destroyed the snap ring coming off so I had to replace it. Part number 40M1823. For reassembly, I had to remove the bearings and washer, reinstall the cone, then put the snap ring on followed by washer, then bearings, then the second washer and second snap ring. Maybe it's a difference in 4WD vs 2WD? Not sure why it was so different. Hope that helps someone. Go ahead buy two snap rings while you're buying all of the gaskets. I couldn't see the inner snap ring while removing, not to mention be able to disengage it. I'm just routinely unlucky where it doesn't seem to go for me like it does in the videos I follow!
@@lorenjohnbailey6445 After the smaller shaft snap ring, there should be a washer, followed by the ball bearing, another washer and then a final snap ring on the motor shaft.
Just pulled the charge pump apart in mine. Not getting pressure to anything now. Do the dots on the charge pump gears have to be facing a certain way
I know I had maintained the gear orientation in mine during reassembly, but it may not matter. There are a lot of seals in the charge pump, so it may be that one either fell out or got pinched. Here is a service manual for the Tuff-Torq K-92 which should show better illustrations of the parts: www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/45064883/k92-service-manual-pdf-tuff-torq-parts
Long shoot here with this being a year old. I am having this exact same issue. I do not have pressure to anything after doing this. How did you fix this issue? Thanks in advance.
I just did this too. My hydraulics work but the tractor doesn’t go forward or reverse. When I push the forward pedal it sounds like the pump is dead heading. Like something is locked.
@@trentonkern did you figure it out ?
How much did you spent on o rings and parts altogether???
I tried to order the parts as kits where I could, and probably spend somewhere around $130, plus the added costs of replacement oil and filter. This job was more about spending the time.
So from what I could see there's no gasket on the brake cover? Deere couldn't find one.
Correct, there was no gasket indicated for that location in the Deere literature, so I just used some Permatex aviation form-a-gasket. The K91 transmission manual states "Apply a bead of silicon sealant to brake cover mating surface of transaxle case.", so that is an option as well.
What rear tires are those?
HDAP, heavy duty all purpose
@@danielraible thank you! Those will look great on my 455!
at 32:21 are you just applying anti seize?
Yes, just the standard Permatex silver.
You need to turn your volume up or just something with the audio can't hear you
My only complaint was there was literally no volume. I tried other videos and they all were very loud and had to be turn down. 🙉Hear No Evil ? Otherwise Your Tutorial was GREAT!
43:45 I heard that 🤣
Very poor sound quality. Just saying.
Wow. what a great video. I have a leak somewhere over on the left side of my 425 rear end. Thinking either the brake seal, or the rear differential lock seal. Don't suppose you are in Wisconsin are you? LOL...I'd hire you to do mine. You did such a great job.
My 425 started leaking this year. JD wants $2600 to do all the seals 😂
Thanks for the awesome video. Went ahead and transcribed those part numbers for anybody who needs to order.
FWD/REV o-rings (2) - CH17653
Diff. Lock seal - M806040
Brake shaft o-ring - CH10570
Valve body gasket - M809659
Hydrostat motor gasket - M806066
Hydrostat seal cap - M806073
Pump o-ring kit - AM878565
Input shaft seal - M806119
Mid-PTO shaft seal - CH14765
There's also a nice thread here that I came across when I was searching for this procedure:
www.greentractortalk.com/threads/john-deere-425-k91-transmission-seals-rebuild.199976/
Great, thank you for the additional information and transcriptions! I've added them to the video description.
Trying to pull the transaxle out of my 455, do you have to disconnect the driveshaft from the front? The three screws, hate to pull things apart I can’t get back together
Thanks
@@ronlegois8152 Believe what you are looking for is @18:18 You simply need to remove the bolt through the U-joint and the splined sections will seperate
@@ronlegois8152 Once you raise up the rear of the frame, and let down the transaxle by removing the electrical & control connections and 4 main bolts, the rear of the driveshaft will easily slip off the transaxle splined shaft once the u-joint bolts are loosened. It comes off very easily from the rear.