You are very welcome - and thanks for watching. After the change my LR is running well again and performs better fuel mileage as well. Drive safely Best regards Rene
Thank you for your inspiration to do it from the top, I don't have a car lift and need to do it at my parking spot in the dark basement of my apartment. It was very difficult due to tight space, but it can be done with a lot of patient.
Ours never gave codes but I don't remember them ever being changed but I might be wrong and we have 216k miles on the car and our gas milage has gone from around 15 mpg to 12.7 mpg. We bought the good sensors like yours and gave them to mechanic but it looks like they are doing it from the bottom taking off Muffler : ( Looks more direct from the top he said everything was too much rust. Muffler needed some work anyway that he is taking care off as there was a clamp on it (screw broke and dealer decided to clamp it 10 years ago great LR Dealer solution : ) Haven't got it back yet..hope it goes smoothly. Excellent video.I should have showed this to them first but maybe rust would have made it hard anyway.
Thank you so much, and thanks for watching and sharing your experience. Yes sometimes it can turn out to be somewhat more difficult than it needs to be. Having rust in the area doesn’t make it easier, and could easily destroy the sensors them selves, creating an additional headache to get them out. I am glad you liked the video, and can say that the only thing which is a necessity to complete the job is the socket specifically designed for the o2 sensors that will allow the wire not to get twisted during installation. I hope you will enjoy the low mileage and enjoy the many many miles still left on the car. Drive safely, best regards Rene
@@techtips101thank you Rene I didn't buy that socket to give to mechanic when I got him the sensors..I hope when installing they had a socket good for the job.We drove around for 130 miles or so and all seems good. Car moves briskly..once it gets going..but I have my eye on mpg which right now sits still at 12.7mpg
Hi Rene, I have a question about disconnecting the electrical housing. Is there a clip that you press on the electrical assembly or do you have to use a screwdriver to slip the male portion out of the female housing?
Thanks for watching and commenting, yes there is a little clip you need to press and a small flat headed screwdriver will be handy in this case. If you are driving in a lot of dirt/sand etc it can be a challenge to take these plugs apart. A little patience will be needed in these cases. You can get an advantage if you spray sim wd40 on the plug first that usually does the trick. Drive safely Best regards Rene
Hi ad thank you for all clear instructions. My landrover 2008 l3 after 10 minutes drive start alarm on ,when I turn off engine. Won't start at all ,sometimes disconnect battery and reconnect after one hour, maybe start may not .why. either dealer couldn't find problem
Thank you for watching - the problem you are describing could be difficult to locate as it could be numerous faults causing it. Which kind of warning lights do you have on in the dash board ? And could you describe the fault more specific. Does the car smell of fuel ? Has I been leaking fluids ? Have you checked your relays ? Does the starter engage or try to engage ? Can you tell me more or give me more information? Hope that helps, best regards Rene
@@techtips101 thanks for answering. The first I dont have crank ,battery is new . Radio ,ac ,GPS, just come and gone. Warning lights around car start blinking and car doesn't start .sometimes I disconnect control module and connect again then will start ( sometimes not allways) ,after few minutes drive ,again Warning start to flashing, radio shot down and if I turn off engine , do not start again. 3 different delarships work on this issue, but couldn't find anything. Control moture is in great shape, relays are ok ,sensors I checked .and I love this car
@@nicolasdakota3446 you might want to check the brake light switch and all the rear tail and stop lights. next you want to take the battery out, and have a look on all the connectors in the tcm modul below the battery. They have a tendency to get moisture, thus the connectors corrode or even worse the modul might destroy itself due to moisture in the electronic. I hope that helps best regards Rene
@@techtips101 Thanks for answering. Made crazy few landrover delar ship ,and they couldn't find anything. I checked all connections, but brake light always on without any reason. I like to keep this landrover and still have hope for .by the way ,radio ,GPS and ac stop working when alarm lights come on to
Thanks for commenting. Yes I am absolutely fine - LR3 runs very well, and I can not complain. I have gotten a little higher miles per gallon too, so all in all quite OK :) best regards Rene
@@techtips101 thanks. I wish you showed all the extensions you used to do this so I can gather or buy what I need. Can you email me a picture of your wrench/ratchet with extension setup?
@@no8do Hi again, yes this can be a challenging task :) however its actually easy when you have the O2 sensor socket. If you use that you don't need an extension for the Bank 2 sensor 1 (take it from above) The Bank 1 sensor 1( take that from below, I did that with the LR3 at full extended suspension, without lift - just block it for safety) I used a 3/8 inch racket, and approx 8 inches long. Works very well. here is the link for the socket, and its well worth the money: www.amazon.com/dp/B01C4OB3XC/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=O.Ge9ykcnuKATTLQkNE6dQ&hsa_cr_id=8436475890201&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=2c4b2250-c2b7-4d0b-86b4-9dcfbd0fb859&pd_rd_w=So7uv&pd_rd_wg=cdMqO&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_img best regards Rene
Thank you for watching and commenting, the socket I use comes from a set of O2 sockets I actually bought from Amazon. I believe the size is a 22 mm with open slice side, in order not to destroy the wire when you install the new one. Here is the link for the set I used. a.co/d/0eeHYvB You can buy just the socket as well and they are a lot cheaper, 10-16$ and that will do the job too, however I use my set quite frequently, and that’s the reason I took the full set. Hope that helps and you get the o2’s fixed, it will take the check engine light away. Remember to reset the ECU computer for a new correct fuel trim use. If you forget, no worries it will just take a little longer to give you optimum parameters for the ecu. Drive safely, best Regards Rene
Thank for watching and commenting :) both your codes are related to the bank 1 and 2 exhaust system, however there can be numerous things wrong here. You aft/downstream O2 sensors seems to be the problem according to you codes too. first of all they send information (plus) to your ECM(engine Control Module) and the ECM is very sensitive too. If you sensors are non OEM, or a copy, you can easily be subject to too slow input, generating yet another PO code. when you have a faulty sensor the ECM per default goes to full rich mixture, not good for the milage per gallon, however you might not even notice it. If it has been doing so for a while the two problems might not have anything to do with each other, but can do. Here is what io would do, and it will take some hours but that's ok. - First check the wiring on the O2 sensors, they are fragile, has to be not burnt, shorted out towards and etc etc. - if it looks ok change the sensors, all of them (denso) 4, remember they are not the same, so make sure you get them as two sets. S1 and S2 either side. If the idle problem is a part of this here is some hints to do: - check you spark plugs for fouling residue, - clean your fuel injectors, they might be filled with residue, since fuel is filled with additives nowadays. Link to video below. - clean you air intake with auto throttle body cleaner, follow instructions on can. - change you air filter. - clean your MAF sensor ( be careful not to break the thread inside) with MAF sensor spray - NOT auto throttle body cleaner = not the same and important - possible change too. Video below. then I think you actually will have this running like new again, caution on tightening the spark plugs. Do NOT over tighten. Injector video : ua-cam.com/video/eDvd2oZLPK4/v-deo.html maf sensor video: ua-cam.com/video/occgGZOo7wQ/v-deo.html hope to hear you got it all fixed, and remember its not a speed contest, just take your time, and you will have this sorted very soon.. have a wonderful time, best regards Rene
It is rare that the ECM module is defect however it could have ingested water. The module is located Right hand side behind the fusebox, but the area is known for water intrusion. The TCM module is there too and mine had been exposed to water recently. Your MAF sensor could be faulty too, which means it would stall in idle and possible fault codes like you already have. Its cheap and easy to fix to have a clear mind . hope that helps :) best regards Rene
Thank you for watching and commenting. You are entitled to your opinion, and thank you for the feed back. The O2 sensor location on this video does not have enough space available for filming, however there is another video on the channel which does show, what you are looking for. However you need the special tool I show here in order to exchange the sensors. You simply put the wire through and place the socket on the sensor and turn it off. Beware some sensors can be so hard to get off you might need heat for them to let go. Sorry I thought I was almost self explanatory, but hope this helps. Drive safely, best regards Rene
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks very much for going step by step showing how to change the oxygen sensors on the LR3
You are very welcome - and thanks for watching. After the change my LR is running well again and performs better fuel mileage as well.
Drive safely
Best regards
Rene
This video was very helpful 🎉
I am so glad it helped you with O2 sensors. - and thank you for commenting and watching too.
Drive safely best regards Rene
Thank you for your inspiration to do it from the top, I don't have a car lift and need to do it at my parking spot in the dark basement of my apartment. It was very difficult due to tight space, but it can be done with a lot of patient.
You are more than welcome 🙏 yes the left side o2 is easier to get to from the top.
Drive safely
Best regards René
gracias a migo , muy buen video mañana boy a quitarles los dos y este video me ayudado mucho .. por primera vez lp boy hacer ..👍🏻👍🏻.
Thank you for commenting
buena suerte avísame
best regards rene
Ours never gave codes but I don't remember them ever being changed but I might be wrong and we have 216k miles on the car and our gas milage
has gone from around 15 mpg to 12.7 mpg. We bought the good sensors like yours and gave them to mechanic but it looks like they are
doing it from the bottom taking off Muffler : ( Looks more direct from the top he said everything was too much rust. Muffler needed
some work anyway that he is taking care off as there was a clamp on it (screw broke and dealer decided to clamp it 10 years ago great LR Dealer solution : )
Haven't got it back yet..hope it goes smoothly. Excellent video.I should have showed this to them first but maybe rust would have made it hard anyway.
Thank you so much, and thanks for watching and sharing your experience. Yes sometimes it can turn out to be somewhat more difficult than it needs to be. Having rust in the area doesn’t make it easier, and could easily destroy the sensors them selves, creating an additional headache to get them out. I am glad you liked the video, and can say that the only thing which is a necessity to complete the job is the socket specifically designed for the o2 sensors that will allow the wire not to get twisted during installation.
I hope you will enjoy the low mileage and enjoy the many many miles still left on the car.
Drive safely, best regards Rene
@@techtips101thank you Rene I didn't buy that socket to give to mechanic when I got him the sensors..I hope when installing they had a socket good for the job.We drove around for 130 miles or so and all seems good. Car moves briskly..once it gets going..but I have my eye on mpg which right now sits still at 12.7mpg
Hi Rene, I have a question about disconnecting the electrical housing. Is there a clip that you press on the electrical assembly or do you have to use a screwdriver to slip the male portion out of the female housing?
Thanks for watching and commenting, yes there is a little clip you need to press and a small flat headed screwdriver will be handy in this case. If you are driving in a lot of dirt/sand etc it can be a challenge to take these plugs apart. A little patience will be needed in these cases. You can get an advantage if you spray sim wd40 on the plug first that usually does the trick.
Drive safely
Best regards Rene
Thank you Rene for the tutorial. I’m having a lot of trouble. Where is the clip? Feeling around with my hand I don’t feel it anywhere
Hi ad thank you for all clear instructions. My landrover 2008 l3 after 10 minutes drive start alarm on ,when I turn off engine. Won't start at all ,sometimes disconnect battery and reconnect after one hour, maybe start may not .why. either dealer couldn't find problem
Thank you for watching - the problem you are describing could be difficult to locate as it could be numerous faults causing it. Which kind of warning lights do you have on in the dash board ?
And could you describe the fault more specific. Does the car smell of fuel ? Has I been leaking fluids ? Have you checked your relays ? Does the starter engage or try to engage ?
Can you tell me more or give me more information?
Hope that helps, best regards Rene
@@techtips101 thanks for answering. The first I dont have crank ,battery is new . Radio ,ac ,GPS, just come and gone. Warning lights around car start blinking and car doesn't start .sometimes I disconnect control module and connect again then will start ( sometimes not allways) ,after few minutes drive ,again Warning start to flashing, radio shot down and if I turn off engine , do not start again. 3 different delarships work on this issue, but couldn't find anything. Control moture is in great shape, relays are ok ,sensors I checked .and I love this car
@@nicolasdakota3446 you might want to check the brake light switch and all the rear tail and stop lights. next you want to take the battery out, and have a look on all the connectors in the tcm modul below the battery. They have a tendency to get moisture, thus the connectors corrode or even worse the modul might destroy itself due to moisture in the electronic.
I hope that helps
best regards Rene
@@techtips101 Thanks for answering. Made crazy few landrover delar ship ,and they couldn't find anything. I checked all connections, but brake light always on without any reason. I like to keep this landrover and still have hope for .by the way ,radio ,GPS and ac stop working when alarm lights come on to
@@nicolasdakota3446 check the HDC relay that might be your problem 👍👍
Perfect
👍👍 glad you liked it.
Drive safely
Best regards
Rene
Are u still ok after the repair?
Thanks for commenting. Yes I am absolutely fine - LR3 runs very well, and I can not complain. I have gotten a little higher miles per gallon too, so all in all quite OK :)
best regards
Rene
@@techtips101 thanks. I wish you showed all the extensions you used to do this so I can gather or buy what I need. Can you email me a picture of your wrench/ratchet with extension setup?
@@no8do Hi again, yes this can be a challenging task :) however its actually easy when you have the O2 sensor socket. If you use that you don't need an extension for the Bank 2 sensor 1 (take it from above) The Bank 1 sensor 1( take that from below, I did that with the LR3 at full extended suspension, without lift - just block it for safety) I used a 3/8 inch racket, and approx 8 inches long. Works very well.
here is the link for the socket, and its well worth the money:
www.amazon.com/dp/B01C4OB3XC/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=O.Ge9ykcnuKATTLQkNE6dQ&hsa_cr_id=8436475890201&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=2c4b2250-c2b7-4d0b-86b4-9dcfbd0fb859&pd_rd_w=So7uv&pd_rd_wg=cdMqO&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_img
best regards Rene
What size is that tool?
Thank you for watching and commenting, the socket I use comes from a set of O2 sockets I actually bought from Amazon. I believe the size is a 22 mm with open slice side, in order not to destroy the wire when you install the new one.
Here is the link for the set I used.
a.co/d/0eeHYvB
You can buy just the socket as well and they are a lot cheaper, 10-16$ and that will do the job too, however I use my set quite frequently, and that’s the reason I took the full set.
Hope that helps and you get the o2’s fixed, it will take the check engine light away. Remember to reset the ECU computer for a new correct fuel trim use. If you forget, no worries it will just take a little longer to give you optimum parameters for the ecu.
Drive safely, best Regards Rene
@@techtips101 thankyou
So I do have P0036 and P0056. It will turn off at a idle
Thank for watching and commenting :)
both your codes are related to the bank 1 and 2 exhaust system, however there can be numerous things wrong here. You aft/downstream O2 sensors seems to be the problem according to you codes too. first of all they send information (plus) to your ECM(engine Control Module) and the ECM is very sensitive too. If you sensors are non OEM, or a copy, you can easily be subject to too slow input, generating yet another PO code. when you have a faulty sensor the ECM per default goes to full rich mixture, not good for the milage per gallon, however you might not even notice it. If it has been doing so for a while the two problems might not have anything to do with each other, but can do.
Here is what io would do, and it will take some hours but that's ok.
- First check the wiring on the O2 sensors, they are fragile, has to be not burnt, shorted out towards and etc etc.
- if it looks ok change the sensors, all of them (denso) 4, remember they are not the same, so make sure you get them as two sets. S1 and S2 either side.
If the idle problem is a part of this here is some hints to do:
- check you spark plugs for fouling residue,
- clean your fuel injectors, they might be filled with residue, since fuel is filled with additives nowadays. Link to video below.
- clean you air intake with auto throttle body cleaner, follow instructions on can.
- change you air filter.
- clean your MAF sensor ( be careful not to break the thread inside) with MAF sensor spray - NOT auto throttle body cleaner = not the same and important - possible change too. Video below.
then I think you actually will have this running like new again, caution on tightening the spark plugs. Do NOT over tighten.
Injector video : ua-cam.com/video/eDvd2oZLPK4/v-deo.html
maf sensor video: ua-cam.com/video/occgGZOo7wQ/v-deo.html
hope to hear you got it all fixed, and remember its not a speed contest, just take your time, and you will have this sorted very soon..
have a wonderful time,
best regards
Rene
It is rare that the ECM module is defect however it could have ingested water. The module is located Right hand side behind the fusebox, but the area is known for water intrusion. The TCM module is there too and mine had been exposed to water recently. Your MAF sensor could be faulty too, which means it would stall in idle and possible fault codes like you already have. Its cheap and easy to fix to have a clear mind .
hope that helps :)
best regards
Rene
One thing that changed my life-I became a vegetarian. 😊
good for you, I respect that 👍
You didn't show changing O2 SENSORS (4 of them), you showed location of one SENSOR. You didn't even show changing that one. Useless video.
Thank you for watching and commenting. You are entitled to your opinion, and thank you for the feed back.
The O2 sensor location on this video does not have enough space available for filming, however there is another video on the channel which does show, what you are looking for. However you need the special tool I show here in order to exchange the sensors. You simply put the wire through and place the socket on the sensor and turn it off. Beware some sensors can be so hard to get off you might need heat for them to let go.
Sorry I thought I was almost self explanatory, but hope this helps.
Drive safely, best regards Rene