Great video. We just did our 2nd diy rough-in plumbing adventure. My tips: run things on the square, not diagonal & it makes things much easier. To save money, keep your plumbing fixtures close together. Our kitchen, bathroom, and laundry are all very close...and we located them on the side of the house that was very close to the septic tank as well. This means less pipes, you can hand dig & save on an excavator, & in the long run your hot water isn't going to take long to get to your point of use. You definitely will buy the wrong things and make multiple runs for parts & pieces.
Great video. Enjoyed the editing and information. We just dug the basement and are doing all ICF. I’m also attempting to do most of it myself. I’ll be catching up on videos and following along. Thanks
@@Mountainview-mesa Thanks! Oh, btw, the UA-cam trolls only get more plentiful the bigger your channel gets. I had a good laugh at some of your comebacks. I’ll be borrowing some 🤣.
Easy hack to get the correct drop on drain pipe: - Take a scrap piece of 2"x4" wood and cut one foot long. - Measure and mark 1" down on one end and 1.25" on the other end. - Connect the end marks and cut. - Attach wood to the bottom of a torpedo level with double-sided tape. Now bottom of the torpedo level has a built in slope of 1/4" per foot. Put it on a pipe and when the bubble on the top indicates "level" the pipe will be sloped correctly. If you want to upgrade even further: - Slice the wood in half on a tablesaw. - Cut an angle in each half of the sloped bottom. - Glue or screw the halves back together. The resulting V in the sloped bottom will sit on round pipes better. You could also make the two halves from scrap plywood if it is thick enough.
I'd put the drains that cross through the concrete walls in a sleeve. Sticking the PVC pipe directly in the concrete means that it can get damage if the concrete ever expands or settles ever so slightly.
Thank you for your advice! I hope people reading this make sure to do that. You'll be happy to know that local code requires that we wrap the pipe in some sort of protective material (closet wrap, sill gasket, etc.) If you watch our concrete slab video I do point it out (albeit briefly).
2 pipe diameters sleeve. When, and I mean when, you have to do a repair you will be happy to not have to to bust your concrete foundation footing. Poly the sleeve to keep critters out. 3” would have been fine for your building drain, but 4 is plenty fine. Also install your traps for your tubs and shower and have them tested and stubbed up before you install concrete.
Passive radon mitigation systems like yours actually work for small amounts of radon gas. The stack effect created by a long vertical pipe works to draw air up and out of your house. Basically, the air pressure at the base of the pipe will be greater than the air pressure at the top of the pipe. Since air always moves from high pressure to low pressure, this causes air to rise up the pipe. Radon gas is heavier than normal air. Thus, it always sinks to the lowest points in your home. The bottom of that pipe is placed below your slab where radon naturally accumulates. Because of the previously mentioned stack effect, radon gas will naturally be drawn up and out of your house through that pipe. Source: Trust me, bro. But seriously, I'm actually a licensed builder.
I'm very interested in seeing how this house turns out. I used to work for Habitat for Humanity and I've seen what amateur builders can be capable of with raw determination. I'm wishing you two the best of luck. You earned a subscriber and I'll be waiting for the next video.
So you spent around $25k on site prep and footers (267,000-241,703)? Is there something that im not seeing because that seems pretty high, especially for diy...
It is difficult to quantify the numbers on this. Sight prep, waterproofing, plumbing, ground work, landscaping, drainage, septic and a host of other projects are all happening at the same time. We pulled our numbers just before recording that outro and didn't even think to subtract any of the other stuff. We will try to be more accurate in future videos. Thank you for paying attention, your comment really got me thinking.
@Mountainview-mesa thanks for the reply. I'm starting my own diy/owner build icf home in the next few months and trying to get as much price-related info as possible. If you got all of the stuff you listed done for $25k (septic, site prep, waterproofing, footers, grading, etc) that makes me feel a LOT better about going into this project, haha! Thanks for the videos, look forward to seeing your progress!
My wife reviewed the finances, and it turns out that site prep and footers actually DID cost $25k. I would keep an eye on our channel, we are planning to drop a short finance companion video detailing where all the money has gone thus far. Going forward, we will be dropping finance videos throughout this build. We don't want to lead people astray with our numbers.
@Mountainview-mesa thank you for that. It looked like your land was fairly flat and you were doing slab on grade and not a basement. If you don't mind saying, how much was excavation/grading/Leveling and how much were the footers?
I believe you are out west and that will be the UPC code, Texas follow both codes depending on where you live. You will get different opinions from plumbers based on the code they follow. I am under the IRC and IPC and I hate this code. I am a UPC believer all the way. Plumbing for 51 years and a code inspector for 32, you did do a few things wrong but it will work. You are to lay your pipe on firm undisturbed soil.
Watching you makes me feel like I could do this myself. If I had the money and the ambition. 😁
You can do it if we can!
Great video. We just did our 2nd diy rough-in plumbing adventure. My tips: run things on the square, not diagonal & it makes things much easier. To save money, keep your plumbing fixtures close together. Our kitchen, bathroom, and laundry are all very close...and we located them on the side of the house that was very close to the septic tank as well. This means less pipes, you can hand dig & save on an excavator, & in the long run your hot water isn't going to take long to get to your point of use. You definitely will buy the wrong things and make multiple runs for parts & pieces.
Thanks Kam! These are great tips and very useful for our viewers starting their projects
Great video. Enjoyed the editing and information. We just dug the basement and are doing all ICF. I’m also attempting to do most of it myself. I’ll be catching up on videos and following along. Thanks
Good luck to you on your project! Thank you so much for subscribing. We are finding the ICF "community" to be quite helpful and friendly so far!
@@Mountainview-mesa Thanks! Oh, btw, the UA-cam trolls only get more plentiful the bigger your channel gets. I had a good laugh at some of your comebacks. I’ll be borrowing some 🤣.
Easy hack to get the correct drop on drain pipe:
- Take a scrap piece of 2"x4" wood and cut one foot long.
- Measure and mark 1" down on one end and 1.25" on the other end.
- Connect the end marks and cut.
- Attach wood to the bottom of a torpedo level with double-sided tape.
Now bottom of the torpedo level has a built in slope of 1/4" per foot. Put it on a pipe and when the bubble on the top indicates "level" the pipe will be sloped correctly.
If you want to upgrade even further:
- Slice the wood in half on a tablesaw.
- Cut an angle in each half of the sloped bottom.
- Glue or screw the halves back together.
The resulting V in the sloped bottom will sit on round pipes better. You could also make the two halves from scrap plywood if it is thick enough.
These are brilliant "hacks"! We can't find skilled help very easily, they are all so busy. Thank you for the advice!
those levels are dope!
Best investment for this project
love it
I'd put the drains that cross through the concrete walls in a sleeve. Sticking the PVC pipe directly in the concrete means that it can get damage if the concrete ever expands or settles ever so slightly.
Thank you for your advice! I hope people reading this make sure to do that. You'll be happy to know that local code requires that we wrap the pipe in some sort of protective material (closet wrap, sill gasket, etc.) If you watch our concrete slab video I do point it out (albeit briefly).
2 pipe diameters sleeve. When, and I mean when, you have to do a repair you will be happy to not have to to bust your concrete foundation footing. Poly the sleeve to keep critters out. 3” would have been fine for your building drain, but 4 is plenty fine. Also install your traps for your tubs and shower and have them tested and stubbed up before you install concrete.
Good video 👌
Thank you so much!
The laughing man at the end fixed everything wrong in this world.
Passive radon mitigation systems like yours actually work for small amounts of radon gas. The stack effect created by a long vertical pipe works to draw air up and out of your house. Basically, the air pressure at the base of the pipe will be greater than the air pressure at the top of the pipe. Since air always moves from high pressure to low pressure, this causes air to rise up the pipe. Radon gas is heavier than normal air. Thus, it always sinks to the lowest points in your home. The bottom of that pipe is placed below your slab where radon naturally accumulates. Because of the previously mentioned stack effect, radon gas will naturally be drawn up and out of your house through that pipe.
Source: Trust me, bro. But seriously, I'm actually a licensed builder.
I love comments like this. People who know things are my favorite people.
I'm very interested in seeing how this house turns out. I used to work for Habitat for Humanity and I've seen what amateur builders can be capable of with raw determination. I'm wishing you two the best of luck. You earned a subscriber and I'll be waiting for the next video.
@@shane5896 Thank you so much! We are pouring the floor on Friday, so hopefully that video drops early next week!!
👍🏼
good job still, suffering is just suffering :)
Thank you. This was definitely a learning experience!
Would love if u guys could hook me up with a plumber so I could learn the state way.. I’m from Jamaica 🇯🇲
I would recommend calling your local plumbing companies. Many of them are ready to hire help. You would learn a lot from them!
Radeon? 🤦♂️. Are you telling me Radeon is going to be in that pipe? That's incredible! Radeon?! Who knew!?
Your mom did a great job with you
Use a crawl space lol.
So you spent around $25k on site prep and footers (267,000-241,703)?
Is there something that im not seeing because that seems pretty high, especially for diy...
It is difficult to quantify the numbers on this. Sight prep, waterproofing, plumbing, ground work, landscaping, drainage, septic and a host of other projects are all happening at the same time. We pulled our numbers just before recording that outro and didn't even think to subtract any of the other stuff. We will try to be more accurate in future videos. Thank you for paying attention, your comment really got me thinking.
@Mountainview-mesa thanks for the reply. I'm starting my own diy/owner build icf home in the next few months and trying to get as much price-related info as possible. If you got all of the stuff you listed done for $25k (septic, site prep, waterproofing, footers, grading, etc) that makes me feel a LOT better about going into this project, haha! Thanks for the videos, look forward to seeing your progress!
My wife reviewed the finances, and it turns out that site prep and footers actually DID cost $25k. I would keep an eye on our channel, we are planning to drop a short finance companion video detailing where all the money has gone thus far. Going forward, we will be dropping finance videos throughout this build. We don't want to lead people astray with our numbers.
@Mountainview-mesa thank you for that. It looked like your land was fairly flat and you were doing slab on grade and not a basement. If you don't mind saying, how much was excavation/grading/Leveling and how much were the footers?
@joshuabeemer4062 my wife is putting that all together now. We will be releasing the companion video of cost breakdown this week.
Como
I believe you are out west and that will be the UPC code, Texas follow both codes depending on where you live. You will get different opinions from plumbers based on the code they follow. I am under the IRC and IPC and I hate this code. I am a UPC believer all the way. Plumbing for 51 years and a code inspector for 32, you did do a few things wrong but it will work. You are to lay your pipe on firm undisturbed soil.
I was hoping to see the chic with wide hips in this video instead of the thumbnail
What an odd reason to watch a plumbing video.
@@Mountainview-mesa plumbing?