Hi, I am really enjoying your adventure, and I a watching your playlist of "all video's from the start" I just suddenly jumpped to you having a house covered with siding. I thought, wait, when did that happen, so I came and looked at all your video's and I see I missed this one and "standing seam roofing as siding". You may want to add them to your "watch all video's from start" play list. Again, I am enjoying the progress. Good work.
11:31 : I bought those 1/2 - 3/4" clamps and had no idea the inner part was designed to be cut out for 3/4". I thought it supposed to stretch out to accommodate the larger pex. I did eventually have to cut the inner part out. Thanks for confirming the way to use them.
Hi bro I'm From Turkey The work you and your team do is really clean and high quality, it is a pleasure to watch, I hope one day I will build my own house too
Great job! I like trunk line system better than the fancy valve manifolds. Less waiting for hot water. Great job on railings also. I think I saw evidence you separated low voltage/network from line voltage. I also saw the Mr Cool installation. I’m thinking of doing that for my garage and shop. Resistance heat is getting expensive. Thanks for sharing.
Actually the hot side of a T&B system will take longer than if ran individually due to the volume of water in a 3/4" line vs 1/2" line, but it really isn't that big of a deal. The biggest benefit of the Manifold system is there are no connections in the walls, so no leak points and you do not need valves at the end user since the manifold has them built in, which covers the cost of the manifold. The main benefit of a T&B system is when you have a hot water recirculation loop, which you should have if you are doing things now. It doesn't cost much and you can add point use buttons at tap locations for "instant" hot water with no water waste.
From what I can see in your camera angle, it looks like in your double vanity, the hot and cold lines will be reversed, unless you make the swap under the sink on one of them. I'm not a plumber so excuse my ignorance if that is not a big deal.✌ I hope to be an owner/builder of an ICF house in a few years when I retire, so I really appreciate all the details in your videos. As the essential craftsman would say, keep up the good work! 👍
Once you are al finished with the PEX, are you planning on "back filling" the cavities that the PEX sits in with spray foam before you install the sheetrock?
Hey there, Quick question John. From a builders' stand point, wouldn't it be "easier" for you to make the building 7" wider on all walls and build a 2x4 exterior wall on the inside to the run all your electrical and plumbing through there? Or is there something I am missing. Thanks!
I think this is a really fair question, and I think other people do choose to just fir out the walls. For us we built the ICF house when dimensional lumber was a thousand percent more than the year before. We were really trying to limit cost of both the ICF block, concrete and any lumber that we might need. So really it just came down to a cost issue for us and not wanting to spend more to make the footprint of the house larger and not wanting to pay for all of the 2x4 framing for the interior. I think other people would make the choice to for out all the walls, but to be honest John's been able to do all the work by himself in not a great deal of time, so labor for us is free and a little bit of vacuum cleanup with the styrofoam is free for us as well. For people hiring plumbers and electricians, they probably would need to factor in additional labor cost for getting through that styrofoam.
So i Know its to late, but is that pex that was from the in floor heating not PexA pipe? If it was then you were supposed to use expansion connections/hardware with expansion rings. If it was PexA, using those crimp rings will not last long. I fear many leaks in very near future. Lastly how did you keep the pex temp normal when its in the attic? Love the videos.
This is the same type of build I’m contemplating for our ski cabin. Have a contractor install ICF walls (and maybe roof) and DIY the remainder of it. I’ve done complete plumbing and electrical upgrades, and remodels before so I think it’s an achievable goal. How many square feet is your space (incl garage)? And thanks for posting these! You’re doing awesome!
Thank you so much for watching! You can definitely do this kind of work if you have done remodels. We have learned so much by watching videos, talking to people, and reading what we can about various products. Our house is 2600 sq ft including the garage.
@@LakeLotBuild awesome - thanks for the info. I’m sure this will sound weird, but would you consider sharing (or selling) a copy of the plans? I’d have to have a local architect make some changes, but what you’re building is pretty close to what I’m hoping to build, and our lots are very similar. “No” is no problem but I thought I’d ask.
Hello. May I ask, why is the shower floor void of concrete? Is this to give you room to move the drain line around as needed? In other words, why not do it exactly as your nearby toilet? I am just trying to learn while planning my own slab home. Thanks.
The shower floor needs a pan that will be absolutely waterproof. So, the hole is left there so that we can build the pan and install all the waterproofing. If we poured it like the toilet we would have to build that pan on top of the slab and thus you would have to step up to get into the shower.
I know you are in the US but where I'm from water/wastewater lines are not run thru the roof cavity or exterior walls with a few exceptions because of our cold winters all plumbing is run inside the building envelope except for subsurface drain lines/main water supply, vent stack and frost free hose taps..
Well this comment definitely sent my wife down the rabbit hole of research. Our viewers are so great at pointing out potential problems, so thank you! From the research we have looked at so far it appears that the non-barrier pipe is typically used for potable water because the US has such high chlorine in the drinking water here and chlorine used to degrade the PEX pipes. Now PEX pipe is made with antioxidants so that chlorine can't harm it. This is not the case for the oxygen barrier PEX pipe as you noted, and it is typically not used for potable water. We are on a well, so we don't have to worry about chlorine in our water system. However there may be additional reasons that the oxygen barrier PEX pipe may not be suitable for potable water. Some of the more recent manufacturers of oxygen barrier PEX pipe do make the application safe and have met the NSF standards. We are checking now to see if our particular oxygen barrier PEX pipe meets those standards. We had planned on using reverse osmosis system at our faucet in the kitchen for drinking water, since we are on a well. We of course want to make sure that all of our water is safe to drink in the house.
Hate to tell you this but you don't have to cut that plastic out of the talon "pex clip" it made to hold both 1/2" and 3/4". Just snap on the pex and nail to whatever. I prefer the ones made for the specific size pipe but they work. Oh bad idea to run both heads off one valve you are not going to get good flow out of either but worse on the far head especially with the 90 in line.
Hi, I am really enjoying your adventure, and I a watching your playlist of "all video's from the start" I just suddenly jumpped to you having a house covered with siding. I thought, wait, when did that happen, so I came and looked at all your video's and I see I missed this one and "standing seam roofing as siding". You may want to add them to your "watch all video's from start" play list. Again, I am enjoying the progress. Good work.
Great catch. Thank you!
All of your videos are so informative, especially, for anyone who is seriously thinking of building an ICF home.
Thank You!!🎉
11:31 : I bought those 1/2 - 3/4" clamps and had no idea the inner part was designed to be cut out for 3/4". I thought it supposed to stretch out to accommodate the larger pex. I did eventually have to cut the inner part out. Thanks for confirming the way to use them.
Thank you a ton John
Nice video! It's looking good
Hi bro I'm From Turkey The work you and your team do is really clean and high quality, it is a pleasure to watch, I hope one day I will build my own house too
Thank you so much for watching! Inshallah, one day you will build your own house. 🙏
Great job! I like trunk line system better than the fancy valve manifolds. Less waiting for hot water. Great job on railings also. I think I saw evidence you separated low voltage/network from line voltage. I also saw the Mr Cool installation. I’m thinking of doing that for my garage and shop. Resistance heat is getting expensive. Thanks for sharing.
Actually the hot side of a T&B system will take longer than if ran individually due to the volume of water in a 3/4" line vs 1/2" line, but it really isn't that big of a deal.
The biggest benefit of the Manifold system is there are no connections in the walls, so no leak points and you do not need valves at the end user since the manifold has them built in, which covers the cost of the manifold.
The main benefit of a T&B system is when you have a hot water recirculation loop, which you should have if you are doing things now. It doesn't cost much and you can add point use buttons at tap locations for "instant" hot water with no water waste.
From what I can see in your camera angle, it looks like in your double vanity, the hot and cold lines will be reversed, unless you make the swap under the sink on one of them. I'm not a plumber so excuse my ignorance if that is not a big deal.✌ I hope to be an owner/builder of an ICF house in a few years when I retire, so I really appreciate all the details in your videos. As the essential craftsman would say, keep up the good work! 👍
I now see later in your video, you got it right. The swap in the previous scene was obscured by a wall stud. So, never mind.
Once you are al finished with the PEX, are you planning on "back filling" the cavities that the PEX sits in with spray foam before you install the sheetrock?
Tidy Work!
How is the sewer vent pipe flashed and waterproofed on the roof deck?
We used the same silicone rubber roofing material all around the pipe. No leaks two years later.
Hey there, Quick question John.
From a builders' stand point, wouldn't it be "easier" for you to make the building 7" wider on all walls and build a 2x4 exterior wall on the inside to the run all your electrical and plumbing through there?
Or is there something I am missing.
Thanks!
I think this is a really fair question, and I think other people do choose to just fir out the walls. For us we built the ICF house when dimensional lumber was a thousand percent more than the year before. We were really trying to limit cost of both the ICF block, concrete and any lumber that we might need. So really it just came down to a cost issue for us and not wanting to spend more to make the footprint of the house larger and not wanting to pay for all of the 2x4 framing for the interior. I think other people would make the choice to for out all the walls, but to be honest John's been able to do all the work by himself in not a great deal of time, so labor for us is free and a little bit of vacuum cleanup with the styrofoam is free for us as well. For people hiring plumbers and electricians, they probably would need to factor in additional labor cost for getting through that styrofoam.
@@LakeLotBuild Great, thanks for the detailed answer :)
I prefer full power with 3/4 or even 1” to shower
So i Know its to late, but is that pex that was from the in floor heating not PexA pipe? If it was then you were supposed to use expansion connections/hardware with expansion rings. If it was PexA, using those crimp rings will not last long. I fear many leaks in very near future. Lastly how did you keep the pex temp normal when its in the attic? Love the videos.
This is the same type of build I’m contemplating for our ski cabin. Have a contractor install ICF walls (and maybe roof) and DIY the remainder of it. I’ve done complete plumbing and electrical upgrades, and remodels before so I think it’s an achievable goal.
How many square feet is your space (incl garage)? And thanks for posting these! You’re doing awesome!
Thank you so much for watching! You can definitely do this kind of work if you have done remodels. We have learned so much by watching videos, talking to people, and reading what we can about various products. Our house is 2600 sq ft including the garage.
@@LakeLotBuild awesome - thanks for the info. I’m sure this will sound weird, but would you consider sharing (or selling) a copy of the plans? I’d have to have a local architect make some changes, but what you’re building is pretty close to what I’m hoping to build, and our lots are very similar. “No” is no problem but I thought I’d ask.
Hello. May I ask, why is the shower floor void of concrete? Is this to give you room to move the drain line around as needed? In other words, why not do it exactly as your nearby toilet? I am just trying to learn while planning my own slab home. Thanks.
The shower floor needs a pan that will be absolutely waterproof. So, the hole is left there so that we can build the pan and install all the waterproofing. If we poured it like the toilet we would have to build that pan on top of the slab and thus you would have to step up to get into the shower.
I hate waiting for hot water....should you have maybe made your truck line a loop and have a small circulator pump?
The primary bathroom is right by the hot water heater, but I know people really enjoy insta hot! Great idea.
I know you are in the US but where I'm from water/wastewater lines are not run thru the roof cavity or exterior walls with a few exceptions because of our cold winters all plumbing is run inside the building envelope except for subsurface drain lines/main water supply, vent stack and frost free hose taps..
Are you sure that OxPex is NSF 14, ASTM F-876/877/2033 and CSA B137.5 compliant? Typically OxPex should never be used for potable water...
Well this comment definitely sent my wife down the rabbit hole of research. Our viewers are so great at pointing out potential problems, so thank you! From the research we have looked at so far it appears that the non-barrier pipe is typically used for potable water because the US has such high chlorine in the drinking water here and chlorine used to degrade the PEX pipes. Now PEX pipe is made with antioxidants so that chlorine can't harm it. This is not the case for the oxygen barrier PEX pipe as you noted, and it is typically not used for potable water. We are on a well, so we don't have to worry about chlorine in our water system. However there may be additional reasons that the oxygen barrier PEX pipe may not be suitable for potable water. Some of the more recent manufacturers of oxygen barrier PEX pipe do make the application safe and have met the NSF standards. We are checking now to see if our particular oxygen barrier PEX pipe meets those standards. We had planned on using reverse osmosis system at our faucet in the kitchen for drinking water, since we are on a well. We of course want to make sure that all of our water is safe to drink in the house.
@@LakeLotBuild it should be printed on the pipe every 2 feet or so.
Hate to tell you this but you don't have to cut that plastic out of the talon "pex clip" it made to hold both 1/2" and 3/4". Just snap on the pex and nail to whatever. I prefer the ones made for the specific size pipe but they work.
Oh bad idea to run both heads off one valve you are not going to get good flow out of either but worse on the far head especially with the 90 in line.