Thank you for showing how to 'snap' the ring on. I was very unsettled about doing this and was convinced I had the wrong rings before your video cleared things up. Cheers!
I found with the QRW rings that I had to anticipate the rotation of the scope in the rings while torquing the ring screws. As careful as I was it was and continues to be a PITA. I also noticed a slight compression(bulge) of the tube at the area of the seam for the upper and lower ring halves. Doesn't seem to compromise the integrity of the scope so far as I can tell. With the abuse I put it through with a M1A Scout Squad its held up. Especially considering its a Hi-Lux 2-7×32 scout scope. Leatherwood/HI-Lux hasgot my vote.
I noticed while shooting the scope was slipping in the rings. I'm going to have to get my torque tool out and check it. I too think it's going to be a PITA. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the video. One correction from the manufacturer's included instructions is to explicitly NOT snap the top ring pieces onto the scope. Instead use two Allen wrenches in the screw holes to slightly spread the rings so they go on without damaging the scope. torque values are specified to be 28 inch lb (asked by another viewer).
I didn't torque them down to any specifications, just to where I thought would be good, but the scope slipped the first few rounds I fired. I had to tighten them more. Torque or not, I'd suggest taking your tool with you when you shoot in case it's not right enough. I saw mine slipping because of the paint. If yours isn't painted you might use a piece of tape behind the ring and see if there is a gap after a few rounds.
If I remember right they were in there pretty good (like maybe with a dab of treadlocker on them). I think I applied pressure until the "popped" loose and then they backed out easily.
@@ChristopherFarms Being oil tolerant means that oil won't dissolve or otherwise weaken the Loctite. That's not the same as it being able to penetrate a coating of oil on the surface of the fasteners you are trying to keep in place, and achieving full strength. I agree with Tony that using oil for cleaning was a bad idea -- I would have used bore or brake cleaner, or alcohol. The other thing you want to do when mounting the rings is push them forward before tightening the screws so that their recoil lugs are in contact with the front of the slots in the bases. If you don't do this, the rings will invariably move under recoil. Regardless, thanks for making the video. I'm going to be mounting a scope on a Remington 700 soon and had never worked on one, so this was very helpful.
I'm pretty sure there isn't unless when they are snugged down tight they just happen to be to the rear. I pulled mine out and took a look, loosened and tightened a couple of times, pretty sure they just end up where they end up. Taking them off and tightening some other way would defeat the purpose of the quick release I suppose.
smitty4699 Those go through and are fixed to the main piece. Took another look. The threads of that screw is what the lever uses to tighten with. And actually, the level itself remains loose so there must be a nut under it that's actually holding stuff it place. You may be able to take the screw out and position the level a little differently so it would be to the rear when tight and then put the screw back in place.
Well, not exactly. I thought it was fixed until I went shooting again. I've had other things going on and haven't gotten back to this project. With the reminder (the additional comments) I'm going to have to get a torque wrench/tool and see where I'm at right now. I'll be sure to report back when I do.
Scope mounting isn't difficult. It requires a few basic tools and a full understanding of mounting an objective lens greater than 40mm. The standard scope for decades was and is the 3-9x40. It is more than adequate for nearly all hunting. Yet sports writers and others have many people believing that a larger objective lens means better performance. When a larger objective lens is chosen it will need higher rings so that that large lens clears the barrel. When that happens your eye may not be in alignment with the scope when you get a good cheek weld. The bigger the objective lens the higher the scope must be mounted. When that occurs you'll never be able to look through the center of the eyepiece or ocular lens. By then you've realize you've just spent lots of $$$ for something you can't use. Scopes with large objective lenses should only be used on bench rifles with an adjustable comb. The comb can be raised high enough to look through the center of the ocular lense. With continually improving lens and coating technology the need for an objective lens greater than 40mm and a scope tube greater than 1 inch won't be worth the difference in price. The big factor is your personal eyesight. If you have poor eyesight you need to wear your glasses and then chose an appropriate lens. A scope will never compensate for poor eye sight. If corrective lenses aren't enough to improve eye sight then you shouldn't be hunting if you cannot see what your aiming at. You have become a liability. Its time to hang up the rifle and participate in something other than hunting and firearms.
Good video for what you advertise it as. IF ANYONE IS LOOKING TO GO INTO MORE DETAIL ON HOW TO DO THIS... Go check out RYAN CLECKNER's channel, he's a marine sniper/instructor. He has a FANTASTIC video on how to mount and adjust the scope to your shooting habits.
Thank you for showing how to 'snap' the ring on. I was very unsettled about doing this and was convinced I had the wrong rings before your video cleared things up. Cheers!
Sorry about the delayed reply, just getting the ability to comment again after the Google+ merge.
You're welcome, glad it helped.
yes me too... my thoughts exactly! I was sure I had the wrong rings as well.
Good articulation, very easy to follow. Strong work!
+George Holt Thanks!
I found with the QRW rings that I had to anticipate the rotation of the scope in the rings while torquing the ring screws. As careful as I was it was and continues to be a PITA. I also noticed a slight compression(bulge) of the tube at the area of the seam for the upper and lower ring halves. Doesn't seem to compromise the integrity of the scope so far as I can tell. With the abuse I put it through with a M1A Scout Squad its held up. Especially considering its a Hi-Lux 2-7×32 scout scope. Leatherwood/HI-Lux hasgot my vote.
I noticed while shooting the scope was slipping in the rings. I'm going to have to get my torque tool out and check it. I too think it's going to be a PITA. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the video. One correction from the manufacturer's included instructions is to explicitly NOT snap the top ring pieces onto the scope. Instead use two Allen wrenches in the screw holes to slightly spread the rings so they go on without damaging the scope. torque values are specified to be 28 inch lb (asked by another viewer).
Also, you will get less scope movement problems if you lap the rings (see the video on scope mounting by Weaver)
+Ty Draper Yes, that would be a lot better than snapping it on.
+Ty Draper I'll check out that video. I do have problems with movement.
Great, thanks for the fast reply I will definitely try this out.
You need to lap the rings before setting your scope. This way the rings are perfectly aligned. Nobody wants a bent scope… right?
Hey, did you forget to level the rifle cant and clock the scope turret bottom to level? I didn’t see any leveling.
Well, now that you ask I don't remember. I might have left that out.
How much torque did you apply on the rings and base? Is there a method of applying the correct torque without a torque screw driver?
I didn't torque them down to any specifications, just to where I thought would be good, but the scope slipped the first few rounds I fired. I had to tighten them more. Torque or not, I'd suggest taking your tool with you when you shoot in case it's not right enough. I saw mine slipping because of the paint. If yours isn't painted you might use a piece of tape behind the ring and see if there is a gap after a few rounds.
Any tips on removing the screws from the rifle before installation of the base
If I remember right they were in there pretty good (like maybe with a dab of treadlocker on them). I think I applied pressure until the "popped" loose and then they backed out easily.
I don't believe the locktite would be effective since you oiled the screw holes
I don't know if all Loctite is oil tolerant but I know some of it is.
@@ChristopherFarms Being oil tolerant means that oil won't dissolve or otherwise weaken the Loctite. That's not the same as it being able to penetrate a coating of oil on the surface of the fasteners you are trying to keep in place, and achieving full strength. I agree with Tony that using oil for cleaning was a bad idea -- I would have used bore or brake cleaner, or alcohol.
The other thing you want to do when mounting the rings is push them forward before tightening the screws so that their recoil lugs are in contact with the front of the slots in the bases. If you don't do this, the rings will invariably move under recoil.
Regardless, thanks for making the video. I'm going to be mounting a scope on a Remington 700 soon and had never worked on one, so this was very helpful.
is there a way to line up the levers so they are pointing to the rear?
I'm pretty sure there isn't unless when they are snugged down tight they just happen to be to the rear. I pulled mine out and took a look, loosened and tightened a couple of times, pretty sure they just end up where they end up. Taking them off and tightening some other way would defeat the purpose of the quick release I suppose.
Christopher Farms thanks for the info but I was wondering then, what’s the purpose of the screws on the lever then?
smitty4699 Those go through and are fixed to the main piece. Took another look. The threads of that screw is what the lever uses to tighten with. And actually, the level itself remains loose so there must be a nut under it that's actually holding stuff it place. You may be able to take the screw out and position the level a little differently so it would be to the rear when tight and then put the screw back in place.
BTW: Did you fix your problem? (The loose rings)
Well, not exactly. I thought it was fixed until I went shooting again. I've had other things going on and haven't gotten back to this project. With the reminder (the additional comments) I'm going to have to get a torque wrench/tool and see where I'm at right now. I'll be sure to report back when I do.
Scope mounting isn't difficult. It requires a few basic tools and a full understanding of mounting an objective lens greater than 40mm. The standard scope for decades was and is the 3-9x40. It is more than adequate for nearly all hunting. Yet sports writers and others have many people believing that a larger objective lens means better performance.
When a larger objective lens is chosen it will need higher rings so that that large lens clears the barrel. When that happens your eye may not be in alignment with the scope when you get a good cheek weld. The bigger the objective lens the higher the scope must be mounted. When that occurs you'll never be able to look through the center of the eyepiece or ocular lens.
By then you've realize you've just spent lots of $$$ for something you can't use. Scopes with large objective lenses should only be used on bench rifles with an adjustable comb. The comb can be raised high enough to look through the center of the ocular lense.
With continually improving lens and coating technology the need for an objective lens greater than 40mm and a scope tube greater than 1 inch won't be worth the difference in price. The big factor is your personal eyesight. If you have poor eyesight you need to wear your glasses and then chose an appropriate lens. A scope will never compensate for poor eye sight.
If corrective lenses aren't enough to improve eye sight then you shouldn't be hunting if you cannot see what your aiming at. You have become a liability. Its time to hang up the rifle and participate in something other than hunting and firearms.
Is your scope a 4x12x42?
gosh, you know I can't remember and it's been I while since I looked. If I get a chance I'll see if I can find it.
Good video for what you advertise it as. IF ANYONE IS LOOKING TO GO INTO MORE DETAIL ON HOW TO DO THIS... Go check out RYAN CLECKNER's channel, he's a marine sniper/instructor. He has a FANTASTIC video on how to mount and adjust the scope to your shooting habits.