helpful! thank you for linking it in your answer to my question on the other video. will you please link the video that shows Brian @ KME putting a sharpening choil on a knife with the tapered KME diamond rod?
It seems to be a very common thing coming from factory. It'd be nice if they'd send the knives already sharpened completely from heel to tip, but atleast we can fix them. I personally like fixing the heel of the blade rather than adding a choil.
You from Dallas? You sound like Vinnie Paul. You haven’t posted for years, but your instruction helped clarify what I needed to get razor (and mirror) sharp. Cheers brother, thank you.
@@bullybar4078 I'm from WV. Id really like to get back into making vids sometime soon hopefully. Work life has really kicked my butt the last couple years. I'm glad to hear that my videos have helped you! Thats really awesome brotha! Thank you for the comment!
Nice job! Drives me crazy as well, I just gave one of my ZT's it's first sharpening last weekend that was the same way, I used the tapered diamond rod and gave it a small sharpening choil then sharpened like normal. The tapered diamond rod worked great.
Greg Swearingen Thanks! I’ve done a few with sharpening choils but most of the time I try and stay away from doing that. If I can fix it I will because I don’t wanna lose any cutting edge. I’ve done a few with a tapered diamond rod but now use my dremel with the small round cutting tip.
Greg Swearingen dremel is so much easier lol I’ve done a couple choil with the diamond file on the lansky blade medic and it works well. That’s what I carry in my backpack that I carry daily.
Knifeguy thanks bro!! I’m the same way. Bugs me to no end when there’s unsharpened cutting edge. I need to get the tapered rod and try your trick out and see if I like that.
Couldn't you also move the blade and clamp the blade closer to the heel so you don't nick the plunge line with the stones? I've done that before just to get the bevel properly profiled, then re-clamp the blade in the center and sharpen it normally.
Luc Albert yes you can. I forgot to mention that but it is in the description of the video. I haven’t had a problem with nicking the plunge line but can make it easier to get into the heel of the blade. Either way leaning the stone will still be the technique used.
yeah you need to keep your stone level whichever way you clamp the blade. This goes for any fixed clamp system. When I'm worried about nicking the edges I just use packing or aluminum tape to mask the edge. Works great. Great video - thanks for sharing.
Luc Albert thanks! But when fixing the unsharpened heel of A blade if you sharpen with the stone flat while on the heel you will create a recurve. I’ve see it many times. After fixing it then you can return to sharpening with the stone flat. What happens is the part of the stone that rides on the unsharpened portion is raised due to the thickness of the heel. This makes your stone contact only on the edges the part on the heel will fix that but the other edge of the stone will dig in. It begins to develop a recurve due to the edge of the stone digging in. Only way to stop that is to raise the side that’s not on the heel of the blade. Thanks for watching tho!
I didn't say "flat" - I said "level", that's different. The heel will be higher, so if you keep the stone leveled, it will only hit that spot. If you are not careful, you can easily put way too much pressure (with your stone) at the heel and start creating a faux sharpening choil - LOL It's a balance
Luc Albert gotcha. Got what you’re saying. Yes, that’s what I’m doing here in my video is raising it enough to contact only the heel until it’s fixed. Definitely don’t want really any pressure at all. I’ve not had this problem of digging in to much at the heal.
I dont own an angle cube, so I'm not sure of what angle exactly. I normally use sharpie and try and match what it came with from factory. I matched the bevel angle on the main part of the cutting edge and then used that angle to profile the heel of the knife.
It doesn't if you clamp it properly. Best way to do it in my opinion is to place the knife in the clamp and pinch down on the clamp with your fingers to seat it on the knife blade and then tighten the tensioner nut up. Haven't ever had any problems with them when doing this. Thanks for your question!
No it does not move. The way the KME jaws are made prevents this very thing on a ffg blade. The KME holds a ffg blade very well. I have several ffg Spydercos and I have never had a blade move in the jaws. fyi.
helpful! thank you for linking it in your answer to my question on the other video. will you please link the video that shows Brian @ KME putting a sharpening choil on a knife with the tapered KME diamond rod?
Briliant! So many knives with no choils have an unsharpened heel.....
It seems to be a very common thing coming from factory. It'd be nice if they'd send the knives already sharpened completely from heel to tip, but atleast we can fix them. I personally like fixing the heel of the blade rather than adding a choil.
You from Dallas? You sound like Vinnie Paul. You haven’t posted for years, but your instruction helped clarify what I needed to get razor (and mirror) sharp. Cheers brother, thank you.
@@bullybar4078 I'm from WV. Id really like to get back into making vids sometime soon hopefully. Work life has really kicked my butt the last couple years. I'm glad to hear that my videos have helped you! Thats really awesome brotha! Thank you for the comment!
I just came across this tip earlier today and it has really changed my sharpening on my Spydercos, thank you!
You're very welcome! I'm glad that this vid could help! I saw the Spydie you posted in the KME group, you killed it! Nice job on the sharpening!
Nice job! Drives me crazy as well, I just gave one of my ZT's it's first sharpening last weekend that was the same way, I used the tapered diamond rod and gave it a small sharpening choil then sharpened like normal. The tapered diamond rod worked great.
Greg Swearingen Thanks! I’ve done a few with sharpening choils but most of the time I try and stay away from doing that. If I can fix it I will because I don’t wanna lose any cutting edge. I’ve done a few with a tapered diamond rod but now use my dremel with the small round cutting tip.
Samson DubV never tried my dremel but I kept it pretty small, probably about 1/8"
Greg Swearingen dremel is so much easier lol I’ve done a couple choil with the diamond file on the lansky blade medic and it works well. That’s what I carry in my backpack that I carry daily.
Very good demo P! I can't stand it when knives aren't sharpened all the way back.
Knifeguy thanks bro!! I’m the same way. Bugs me to no end when there’s unsharpened cutting edge. I need to get the tapered rod and try your trick out and see if I like that.
Thats exactly how I Sharpening the unfinished edge. Great tip and video
Brian Wallace it’s the easiest way to fix it. Thanks for the view and comment! Appreciate it!
Couldn't you also move the blade and clamp the blade closer to the heel so you don't nick the plunge line with the stones? I've done that before just to get the bevel properly profiled, then re-clamp the blade in the center and sharpen it normally.
Luc Albert yes you can. I forgot to mention that but it is in the description of the video. I haven’t had a problem with nicking the plunge line but can make it easier to get into the heel of the blade. Either way leaning the stone will still be the technique used.
yeah you need to keep your stone level whichever way you clamp the blade. This goes for any fixed clamp system. When I'm worried about nicking the edges I just use packing or aluminum tape to mask the edge. Works great.
Great video - thanks for sharing.
Luc Albert thanks! But when fixing the unsharpened heel of
A blade if you sharpen with the stone flat while on the heel you will create a recurve. I’ve see it many times. After fixing it then you can return to sharpening with the stone flat. What happens is the part of the stone that rides on the unsharpened portion is raised due to the thickness of the heel. This makes your stone contact only on the edges the part on the heel will fix that but the other edge of the stone will dig in. It begins to develop a recurve due to the edge of the stone digging in. Only way to stop that is to raise the side that’s not on the heel of the blade. Thanks for watching tho!
I didn't say "flat" - I said "level", that's different. The heel will be higher, so if you keep the stone leveled, it will only hit that spot. If you are not careful, you can easily put way too much pressure (with your stone) at the heel and start creating a faux sharpening choil - LOL It's a balance
Luc Albert gotcha. Got what you’re saying. Yes, that’s what I’m doing here in my video is raising it enough to contact only the heel until it’s fixed. Definitely don’t want really any pressure at all. I’ve not had this problem of digging in to much at the heal.
When you reprofiled what angle did you use?
I dont own an angle cube, so I'm not sure of what angle exactly. I normally use sharpie and try and match what it came with from factory. I matched the bevel angle on the main part of the cutting edge and then used that angle to profile the heel of the knife.
Doesnt the ffg blade tip in the clamp? Never tired to sharpen a true ffg on my kme.
It doesn't if you clamp it properly. Best way to do it in my opinion is to place the knife in the clamp and pinch down on the clamp with your fingers to seat it on the knife blade and then tighten the tensioner nut up. Haven't ever had any problems with them when doing this. Thanks for your question!
No it does not move. The way the KME jaws are made prevents this very thing on a ffg blade. The KME holds a ffg blade very well. I have several ffg Spydercos and I have never had a blade move in the jaws. fyi.
You're welcome! I'll link the vid below for his video.
ua-cam.com/video/Xp5KBZhV3fs/v-deo.htmlsi=5FqiCo-wp1ESOdsP