This video helped me tremendously. I'm new to knives and sharpening. I'm using the worksharp precision adjust which translates well to the model you're using. I was definitely doing some things wrong. Was having trouble getting rid of the burr on my zt 0562 (20cv). Your technique worked wonders. Thank you so much! You earned this subscriber!
Thank you very much I’m just starting out with a clamp support type sharpening method and will probably need some help at some time Thank you and it’s ironic I just took a chance and ordered a used knife off eBay and it’s exactly like that one you just sharpened. Thanks again
I learned from Cliff Stamp years ago to "sneak" up on the apex, rather than creating a burr, in order to avoid work-hardening the edge. (Looking for the reflection of light on the dull apex and working slowly from each side until that line of reflection disappears, revealing a sharp edge.)
@@CNYKnifeNerd So, you are claiming that bending the edge back and forth repeatedly will not make the apex, even though it is a small region of the knife, harder? (I understand that this is a nuance however, I don't think the predictable properties of metal can be ignored.)
This video really helped me out with a couple things I was doing wrong with the KME I only sharpened a couple knives so far, but now I can use this as a reference video. I just want to say I really appreciate you doing these extra videos I tried watching some of the other videos on UA-cam, but they were just over explaining everything and made some of them way to long. Thx again bro 👍🏼
You're welcome, I'm happy they will help you and anyone else who has questions. If you go back through the videos I have one about keeping the tip from getting rounded over as well.
I have a KME and have more than a few sharpening's under my belt but certainly not as many as you. I can't believe how long it took you to get rid of the burr, it must have been massive Even if it's the slightest burr you could even feel the length of the blade is more than enough to proceed to the next finer grit.
I had always thought that when using this type of sharpener, one was supposed to move the stone parallel to the edge or at a very shallow angle. In other words, to stroke from tip to handle and back, not to have a sawing motion perpendicular to the edge. I can see that going perpendicular to the edge could remove material quickly. But one would also be raising micro saw teeth on the edge and would have to be careful not to take too much off in one place.
When you use a stone do you just lay it on the stone matching the edge angle then saw back and forth vigorously, not moving the knife up or down on the stone?? This and freehand are the exact same process, except in this method the knife is fixed and the stone moves while the opposite is generally true in freehand sharpening.
There are less expensive clamp style sharpeners, I had a Lansky before buying the KME. The KME is much easier to use and IMO superior in all aspects and a little safer and much faster to flip blade from one side to the other. There's no comparison between the two KME is far superior
Newbie to sharpening and learning a lot from your channel. Where can I get the basswood and 1 and 1600 micron compounds you use for stropping? Hope I'm getting the terminology right. And do you have a specific episode/link that covers your stropping materials and technique?
You will get a burr with every stone, as I go up in grit and do less work my burr gets smaller as I progress through the stones. Once you get your apex on the first stone each stone after that as you remove the previous scratch pattern you are coming all the way to the apex and making a new small burr that you then weaken/minimize.
@@Outpost_76 No you do not need to get a burr with every stone. The first stone really does all the work. the subsequent stones just put a smoother edge on your knife.
On the titanium scale side, just near the pocket clip, the milled out recess has a knurling/machined pattern. Whereas in some other examples of 0562, i don't see a machined pattern. Do you know if that's something related to the production year?
I did a video about clamping and how I do it. Blade shape and grind geometry are the biggest factor in clamping. There is no right angle to orientate every particular blade style.
You did a nice job on that blade . 👍
Thank you
Nice technique and really impressive explanation. Greetings from India my friend.
Great video on the KME and some tips for success. You covered a lot of situations during that sharpening. Thank you for your time!!
You're welcome and thank you.
Great information. Thank you for your hard work.
You're welcome
This video helped me tremendously. I'm new to knives and sharpening. I'm using the worksharp precision adjust which translates well to the model you're using. I was definitely doing some things wrong.
Was having trouble getting rid of the burr on my zt 0562 (20cv). Your technique worked wonders. Thank you so much! You earned this subscriber!
learned a few things as everyones technique is a little different and im always learning. Great video Thanks!
Awesome vid for fixed angle sharpeners. Keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
Thank you very much I’m just starting out with a clamp support type sharpening method and will probably need some help at some time Thank you and it’s ironic I just took a chance and ordered a used knife off eBay and it’s exactly like that one you just sharpened. Thanks again
"I understand a lot of you guys know what a burr looks like"
That's a bold claim to make, in my experience.
I learned from Cliff Stamp years ago to "sneak" up on the apex, rather than creating a burr, in order to avoid work-hardening the edge. (Looking for the reflection of light on the dull apex and working slowly from each side until that line of reflection disappears, revealing a sharp edge.)
Work hardening is definitely not what you think it is if you think it can happen as a result of sharpening.
@@CNYKnifeNerd So, you are claiming that bending the edge back and forth repeatedly will not make the apex, even though it is a small region of the knife, harder? (I understand that this is a nuance however, I don't think the predictable properties of metal can be ignored.)
@@A.J.Collins if you are bending and edge back and forth rather then shaving metal on each side something has gone wrong
@@gabecirillo3131 I agree.
Just getting started with KME did my second knife last night
Amazing sharpening vid G
Very helpful
I’d rather watch these videos...than eat. 😎
This video really helped me out with a couple things I was doing wrong with the KME I only sharpened a couple knives so far, but now I can use this as a reference video. I just want to say I really appreciate you doing these extra videos I tried watching some of the other videos on UA-cam, but they were just over explaining everything and made some of them way to long. Thx again bro 👍🏼
You're welcome, I'm happy they will help you and anyone else who has questions. If you go back through the videos I have one about keeping the tip from getting rounded over as well.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
I have a KME and have more than a few sharpening's under my belt but certainly not as many as you. I can't believe how long it took you to get rid of the burr, it must have been massive Even if it's the slightest burr you could even feel the length of the blade is more than enough to proceed to the next finer grit.
Nice tutorial. 👍🏻
Thank you for this!
You're welcome
I had always thought that when using this type of sharpener, one was supposed to move the stone parallel to the edge or at a very shallow angle. In other words, to stroke from tip to handle and back, not to have a sawing motion perpendicular to the edge.
I can see that going perpendicular to the edge could remove material quickly. But one would also be raising micro saw teeth on the edge and would have to be careful not to take too much off in one place.
When you use a stone do you just lay it on the stone matching the edge angle then saw back and forth vigorously, not moving the knife up or down on the stone??
This and freehand are the exact same process, except in this method the knife is fixed and the stone moves while the opposite is generally true in freehand sharpening.
Yea, you’re right it’s called a “toothy edge” it’s when you don’t go down to a fine enough stone.
Yeah, that looks way easier to keep consistent than my Lansky. How do you avoid effing up the tip? I have rounded a few.
I have a video on how to keep your tip crisp on the KME or any other fixed system.
ua-cam.com/video/YpicCLtVkbg/v-deo.html
@@Outpost_76 you da man! Thanks.
@@johnsellers1272 you're welcome
i wish zt didnt discontinue the 0562 in g10
I have a original run 0562 in g10/elmax. Still great
Thanks for the depth and detail of the explanations at every step. Is KME what you would recommend for a beginner?
If you want a fixed angle sharpener any of them will work. All have a learning curve in the ways they work so any can be used as a beginner.
There are less expensive clamp style sharpeners, I had a Lansky before buying the KME. The KME is much easier to use and IMO superior in all aspects and a little safer and much faster to flip blade from one side to the other. There's no comparison between the two KME is far superior
Do you worry about scratch pattern as in keeping the scratches perpendicular to the edge?
I don't, the way mine come out the all angle front to back at about a 45 degree angle.
Newbie to sharpening and learning a lot from your channel. Where can I get the basswood and 1 and 1600 micron compounds you use for stropping? Hope I'm getting the terminology right. And do you have a specific episode/link that covers your stropping materials and technique?
Just started reprofiling my ZT knife and it takes forever with their double bevel.
Where did you get that bigger knob for back of KME ?
So just to confirm. I’m only suppose to get a bur with the first stone, not every single stone?
You will get a burr with every stone, as I go up in grit and do less work my burr gets smaller as I progress through the stones. Once you get your apex on the first stone each stone after that as you remove the previous scratch pattern you are coming all the way to the apex and making a new small burr that you then weaken/minimize.
@@Outpost_76 No you do not need to get a burr with every stone. The first stone really does all the work. the subsequent stones just put a smoother edge on your knife.
On the titanium scale side, just near the pocket clip, the milled out recess has a knurling/machined pattern. Whereas in some other examples of 0562, i don't see a machined pattern. Do you know if that's something related to the production year?
That could be possible, I've had years apart ZT models with minor differences like that. This one has a pretty high serial number so it's possible.
Thank you
👍👊
Why does no one talk about the actual most important part in fixed angle system. Clamping at the right angle
I did a video about clamping and how I do it. Blade shape and grind geometry are the biggest factor in clamping. There is no right angle to orientate every particular blade style.
I did it with Woodglut.