ROASTING LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING 2021 (burberry should be burburied)
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2020
- London Fashion Week is a fashion month staple that has given us iconic designers like Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Vivienne Westwood, & Stella McCartney but a new crowd of designers has been making it all their own. We started our roast with Riccardo Tisci's work at Burberry. The Italian designer famed for making Givenchy relevant still hasn't found his footing over at Burberry, and between a lack of desirable trenchcoats, missed opportunities for cool prints, and layering that just feels overbearing, this season was a bust. Simone Rocha quickly stepped in as one of the strongest collections for the Brits, even though she's Irish. Her work was really just a re-emphasis on her brand DNA as well as a smart little nod to Cristobal Balenciaga when it came to silhouette. It's also hard not to notice that Rocha has brought 3 piece suiting to a whole new level. Molly Goddard, the Madame of Tulle, put out a shocking collection that felt more wacky than commercial. She definitely promised clients that her signature tulle dresses weren't going anywhere and that she could turn them into more wearable options like a shirt, but overall it felt a bit too funky. Then we looked at Christopher Kane's art class collection. The designer opted for Quality over Quantity, and it worked in his favor as paints and glitters reimagined office classics as well as gave bright and punchy new prints. Robert Wun is new to our list of British designers we discuss, but his pleats and folding styles are so abstract and new that they're hard to describe. And well that's a good thing in my book. His collection reimagined suits, gave new depths to how stitching can contour the body, and cascaded pleats through multiple looks that would make both rainbows and waterfalls jealous. JW Anderson by Jonathan Anderson rounded out the London Fashion Week calendar with a collection that was a subtle attempt at commercial pieces, that still had hints of kookiness that Anderson is known for. Whether it was military-inspired coats full of pockets, textured chevron motifs, or an orange dress that would be perfect for a Halloween party if you're dressing as a pumpkin, it was a full-throttle of fashion. Overall, the designers did their best to reestablish classics and try not to scare off their customers too much, and I respect just about any balancing act brands are willing to try and make work.
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The trench coat got its name in the WW1, when Thomas Burberry was asked by thd UK War Office to offer a viable, lighter alrernative to the military greatcoat using the innovative fabric he had invented, the gabardine. During the WW1, only officers were allowed to purchase those coats. Since the majority of the time was spent by combatants in the the trenches, the coat got its "nick"name.
If you look at pictures from the trenches of the WW1, soldiers were wearing helmets. Otherwise, they would wear military caps/hats. My belief is that the coat was not designed with a hood attached because of the compulsory military headgear.
This. Also wearing a hood in a battle situation might interfere with one’s vision/orientation. Especially if it were big enough to fit over a helmet.
@@lisad8524 As well as the fact that hats were common place in Britain and Europe and most people wouldnt leave without a hat and an umbrella. The rain excuse doesn't hold well 😅
Shame this chap didn't do his research to find out the detail you've given above - thank you.
Can someone get Billie Eilish and Simone Rocha together. They’d make a great pair and Billie can stop with those oversized hoodies.
THANK YOU!!! I'VE BEEN SAYING THIS FOR FOREVER!!
Ooooh that would be gorgeous!
But she wants to protect her body from the world. That’s why she wears all the baggy clothes not because she has no style or something. Just saying but good point tho.
sunrocks Yeah, we get that & we support her! With this type of designer she can elevate her modest fashion... even if she like covering up, she can’t get a pass for not turnout looks. There are Interesting designers who can produce work that would suit her preferences. She reAlly has the potential to dominate this lane. That all we saying!!
Ham Tiger We do too!!! BUT they not doing justice for Billie. They haven’t made anything interesting for her so SORRY they need to sit this one out.
Luke: Why are we showing such heavy styles for a spring collection?
Canadian watching this: 👁👄👁
All the europeans and Brits who have snow untill May watching this
❄️👄❄️
I'm in texas- our "cold front" hit and it was high 70s°F 🙃
well...its because people are stupid and dont know a thing about fabrics. wool IS a summer fabric. it is amazing at stabilizing body temperature, keeping one cool or warm. once we started all this nonsense with these synthetic/manmade fabrics people became very stupid about what fabrics did. absolutely no one realizes that africans have always worn wool of some sort (hair/skin from animals) for ever. when europeans first came to america, they ditched the silk for wool. cause silk is hot and wool keeps you comfortable. and linen was mostly for undergarments. cotton was expensive, especially the cotton that was weaved thin and light enough for hot temperatures (atleast until the whole american slavery thing happened). people in the desert cover their skin from head to toe. this is how you stay cool, you keep your skin out of the sun. the sun hitting your skin it what makes you get hot a sweaty. the only manmade fabrics that are OK are the ones made of plant cellulose (viscose, rayon most bamboo fabrics) because they act like a sort of cotton. but for real, its just like everyone asking history reenactors "arent you hot?" no theyre not hot. your hot because you are wearing a polyester tank tap and heavy cotton denim short showing all your skin to the sun while none of your clothes are keeping you dry and cool. they are not hot because they are wearing linen under garments (which are keeping them nice and dry) and a cotton or wool over garment which is protecting their skin from the sun while stabilizing their bodies temperature. people really need to learn about their clothes and fabrics. this ignorance over what we wear is just uncalled for.
@@bethanyday3471 true!
For real, it’s summer right now apparently and my winter wardrobe with all the coats is already out, it’s legit like 10 degrees here.
I loved Rocha’s references to ballet and historical ballet
Timestamps if u need to find a brand😁:
0:53 Burberry
11:39 Simone Rocha
18:54 Molly Goddard
24:45 Christopher Kane
29:24 Robert Wun
38:22 JW Anderson
thankkksssss
Okay, Robert Wun is definitely on my radar now. That collection was amazing
Goddard’s collection reminds me of how, during this pandemic, I’ve felt liberated to wear whatever the hell I want! Safely at home, I can dress up in anything that makes me feel free, fun, and beautiful. No work dress code....no need to impress others at parties...just ME playing dress up and being authentically and unashamedly my most creative inner child self. 🌈
okay highkey love this mentality and happy that a brand can help reinforce those notions through their collections!!
I attempted to get rid of clothes during the pandemic. Instead it just reminded me of all the clothes I own, like, but never wear because it’s just never that appropriate for anything. Everyday became dress up day. I always stood up so everyone could see my outfit during zoom meetings. I love tulle, and have a few too many tulle skirts, and have loved Goddard’s clothes since I first saw them. I would have totally worn the first outfit exactly how it is. My favorite things that I rediscovered in my closet were my old bridesmaid dresses. Since I was assured that I would totally be able to wear them after the weddings and wanted to see if I could work them into an everyday outfit. If the reactions of the people in supermarkets and pharmacies are to be trusted I failed. But they did make those anxiety inducing outings more fun. I’m totally going to continue my dress up outfits now that things are opening back up. I hope you do too.
Simone Rocha and Robert Wun's collections were stunning!!!
Yes! Omg! So whimsical and magical. I was getting Kingdom Hearts, magical girl realness!
TheALBox Especially Robert Wun's! They do look more like Kingdom Hearts, especially the outfit with a big zipper.
When Burberry created the first trench coat, it was a completely different era (social norms and structure), people used to dress and accessorize in a different manner, compared with the way people tend to dress in their every day lives now days. They used to always carry a well constructed umbrella and would also most likely wear hats, that were appropriately made to suit the time of the day they were worn as well as to protect from the weather conditions. Could these be the reasons they wouldn't be using hooded garments?
Maybe he just ran out of fabric and passed it off as a stylistic choice
Yep, you wouldn't be caught dead *anywhere* without a hat on. Like, at all. And hairstyles were also much higher maintenance!
I stopped the video to look for this comment. PEOPLE WERE WEARING HATS
@@commonpoppy Exactly! anyone with basic design and fashion history knowledge would be able to work out the utilitarian differences of garments throughout the different eras, that were heavily influenced by politics, shortage or availability of materials, socioeconomic factors etc
request if possible:
i watch while working a lot, and when you do runway reviews it would be helpful if while you were talking about a show/designer (for the entirety of the discussion) you had their name showing somewhere small. that way when i look over i can remind myself where we are in the video?
please and thanks, if you so choose to do so :)
"Burberry should be burburied" LOL i agree. Burberry looked more Givenchy than Givenchy 🤷
OMG THIS COMMENT ur absolutely right
Have you seen the men louis vuitton tokyo collection it's was amazing some of the clothes were eh, but it really fit Japanese street fashion I hope luke reviews
@@screamingbanshee1282 no, i haven't. But I'll check it out for sure
made my fashion day! thanks dario!
@@sjnothing253 my pleasure!!!
love that you included emerging designers like robert wun!!! I've been waiting for someone to discuss his work :)
HE'S AN ICON!!!! I truly think his work is so wonderful and difficult to describe and that thrills me and makes me excited for the future!!
I love how you bring in environmental and gender inequality issues so seamlessly throughout the reviews. Also, at first I thought “Oh the Burberry collection wasn’t that bad, there was some cute pieces and interesting ideas” and then I saw Rocha’s collection and I’m like ‘Oh no Burberry is trash if this is the standard.’ Wow what beauty and elegance and creativity.
Robert Wun is going to do great things. Can't wait to see him on a red carpet!
I absolutely love simone Rocha's collection. I can see her doing her take on so many fashions during the last 250 years - all the way from Georgian to early Victorian to late Victorian to Gibson girls and 20s and 30s and 50s and 60s, and more that I just missed by looking at pretty clothes.
The more unwearable these clothes look, the more I want to wear them.
This is how you become a cosplayer.
This is how you become a trendsetter.
I agree. I'm glad that not everyone has Luke's taste, because peple would look good yet safe and not very personal. Personal style is more important than fashion.
Can we all take a moment for Robert Wun’s work. I almost cried watching your review of his work it’s so amazing omg 😭😭😭 Ive never imagined clothing to ever look like that before this is what fashion is ❤️ thank you Luke for introducing me to his work OMG
I'm very excited by some of the early Victorian-esque low shoulder mutton sleeves in Rocha's collection. Absolutely lovely.
heavy fabrics: The rich are already plotting to party the last days of humankind on the snowpiercer...
would love a collab with a youtube fashion historian like Bernadette Banner or Abby Cox on the historical references in Simone Rochas clothing.
Oh man, I would absolutely ADORE that. Or a breakdown of the Moschino collection from whenever that was that had so many cool historical bits!
omg YES!
yes!! when quarantine is over they can team up in NYC
The Christopher Kane stuff is so Basquiat meets Pollack.
The bags in Simone Rocha look like Regency-era Reticule bags! Especially at 13:40. The little corset/stays style top is super regency inspired too! Love it!
I'm obsessed with Simone Rocha's collection.
Robert Wun was groundbreaking! Want to see this collection in motion.
Hey luke I usually agree with your opinions, but y'know here in europe spring is very cold some days then very hot other days. Even though climate change is affecting the length of summer, the beginning of spring is still hella cold, sometimes it even snows. So i think big coats kinda make sense
In the US it can be pretty cold in early spring too. When I lived in upstate New York it sometimes snowed until May.
@@patty1247 then I dont know why luke thinks big coats are dumb lol
@Kata Nina that makes sense!
Kata Nina There was no Haute couture in this video.
Kata Nina Not because it is bad, I would suggest looking up ‘Haute Couture’. (Google😊) Its a bit long to explain here. Don’t feel bad, Luc does mix up the terms ‘Couture’ n ‘Haute Couture’ at times too. Grts from COLD Belgium.
Robert Wun's collection is so good, I wanna see lil nas wearing one of those cowboy masterpieces
Is there a world I can live in where Billie Eilish wears Simone Rocha?
I assume Mr. Burberry just assumed you’d be wearing a hat...
Or a helmet
or you’d have an umbrella
I would describe Robert Wun's style as "JRPG-esque". Not in a bad way, but all the straps and folded bits are giving me BIG Final Fantasy vibes.
littlebluecaboose And like another comment I read, Kingdom Hearts!
34:47 Bloodborne, but make it fashion!
oh my god thank you so much for covering Simone Rocha, Im a bit of a newbee so i Hadn't heard of her. Wow. My jaw literally dropped @16:08 I thought I hated the "oversized" thing, but I realized I just hate how most designers execute it.
here we came! gardon ramsay of fashion and haute couture.
this is the kindest compliment i have ever received!!
@@hautelemode omg ur welcome luke!!
Robert Wun’s line was giving me dressage, BDSM, Musketeers realness, but those petal booties were giving me fancy roast chicken drumstick garnish vibes and I can’t handle it😂😂😂
I think the reason the Burberry coats don’t have hoods is that they might have interfered with the headgear worn by military officers
Or safety concerns since they were primarily used in trenches. I can see it being a hazard if hell broke out
This Burberry's prints with faces covered in seashells etc are paintings by Arcimboldi, an Italian artist
"This is fashion porn ppl, you have got to be 18 and up to legally be looking at this shit" :D Iconic
Can we please get Lil Nas X in that denim Robert Wun suit? It would be FREAKIN' iconic!
THE TITLE 😂😂 sending love Luke 💕
it's so dumb but can't believe i haven't written it in a video title yet lol
I stan this man for these dad puns
robert wun’s collection is my ready to wear. i will wear that to walk in the park or to a google meet, idc it looks INCREDIBLE.
The Burberry seashell face dress feels like it might be referencing Giuseppe Arcimboldo! He was a court painter for the Habsburgs, I think, in the 1500s and is known for painting portraits out of vegetables/books/flowers/etc.
"Che mangino brioche" is the Italian equivalent of "let them eat cake". Whenever you need a translation in Italian I'm here :)
When you put Robert Wun's in the thumbnail I Clicked and skip to his first! Finally, someone talking about him, I've been looking any fashion shows or videos about him and there is not a lot!
Can we give props to Simone Rocha for the use of a variety of models! So glad to see such a gorgeous palette of people to showcase such gorgeous clothes. Some other designers could take a message.
Luke, when are we going to get the reaction to Jamie Chua’s closet? I’ve lost count of how many times we begged! It’s been to long of a wait!
shhhhhh don't give away this month's exciting video!!
@@hautelemode god bless you Luke!
Robert Wun gives me LIFE!!! Thank you for introducing me to this amazing artist! And a master of textile manipulation. Very smart
Damn that marie antoinette peasant dress comparison was genuinely so clever and intriguing, love that
Lasciategli mangiare le brioche!
The dress with the seashell face from Burberry could also be his take on Giuseppe Arcimboldo's Summer, Winter, Fall and Spring paintings.
lmao, I am dying at "playing polo on unicorns..."
I just found this channel and I’ve been binging hard!! I especially love this style of discussing fashion because I like multitasking, so I’ll listen and do other things. This is a great video style for those with visual impairments who still want to enjoy the art of fashion
... and bam! Cannibalistic sock puppet! 🤪🤣🤣🤣🤠
I love so much, it dosen't doesn't matter how bad I'm feeling, every single time I watch one of your videos it makes me smile thx for that.
Strangely, I do like the Burberry pallet. Would make lovely eyeshadow/nail polishes. But how many trench coats/scarves does one need that one cannot find in a thrift store for less? Such dreadful rags for so much cash! Quelle dommage!
Luke ive never actually checked your sub count but you have grown so much in a year !! proud of you girl
Look, 2020 is all blending together in one big mishmash of terrible, awful events that when I saw the title of this video I genuinely thought for a split second that I had somehow missed two months and it was somehow 2021… It was a blissful split second
Can we take a minute to talk about Robert Wun's hats? Those are amazing!
Robert Wun FABULOUS ! and the Rocha collection Gorgeous !! 💕💝💖thanks Luke..love your Knit jumper 💞
I love your commentaries: so erudite, informed, and amusing. Can I just point out that it does NOT rain ALL the time in the UK - at the moment it is a hot, sweaty, humid 28 degrees (no idea what that is in Farenheit - let's call it 'uncomfortably hot and clammy'). In fact, we could do with a damn good downpour to clear the stuffy air. Yuk!
okay but I'm a sucker for history and Simone Rocha's beading and silhouettes all seem so.... like renaissance and victorian and I need them all
Your a natural at this! Knowledgeable, cute and so funny! Thank you =)
“desperate to go to the 🚽 “
💀
4:35 "let them eat cake"? In Italian we say "(if there's no bread) che mangino le brioches"🥐
AHHHH THE PETER DO SWEATER IS ICONICCCCCC ON U
I just want every single Robert Wun hat... Exquisite! Also, where is the size diversity?? There is something to say about the androgynous trend but I haven't seen any actual breasts?!
"DESPERAT TO GO TO THE TOILAAAT" I'm fucking crying Luke stop!!!
Robert’s collection literally took my breath away
That Simone Rocha coat at 13:17 is looking a lot like Ciri's cloak in The Witcher 👀
Haute you know how LONG I've been waiting for this...please don't get me the wrong way, I love the shit outta you, I love you😘, all the way from Durban, South Africa, but girl, I just want the reviews already 😂😂(but then I understand the amount of time it takes to fully watch and analyze each collection and so for that I let it slide).
I have been waiting for this!! I am happy that you talk about robert wun~~
After seeing a 1997 Dior Fall fashion show designed by John Galliano, nothing impresses me. Seeing the movement, attitude and art exuded by the shows in the 80’s and 90’s is UNMATCHED.
The way that I dropped everything as soon as I saw you uploaded
'Give it two googly eyes and BAM cannibalistic sock puppet!' will make the history books on 2020's fashion.
Luke, please add chapters to your fashion roast/review vids! It would be greatly appreciated. Insightful vid as always!
Fashion History Lesson: The trench coat was designed for the trenches, hence the name. Thomas Burberry designed it alongside another luxury brand to be supplied to the British Troops during WW1, they don’t have hoods because they wore helmets instead.
Love how you always talk about how you hate asymmetry, but still always show up in something asymmetrical XD you still look amazing tho
Hoods weren’t needed when he invented the trench coat because men wore hats. There.
Why is fashion today so “kitchen sink”? Editing is your friend.
“...That looked like two coats had once been one but have become divided by Wun’s folds" 😂😂..I can’t stand you for wunce
Just watching this amid our CONSTANT blizzards this year and so thankful for the HEAVY... its like they knew...?!
WOW. ROBERT WUN.... wow. I’m utterly speechless... his clothes are stunningly gorgeous
I'd love it if you did a fashion analyzation video on Gossip Girl! The fashion is amazing and each character's unique style makes it interesting.
3:40 “somebody explain that one” well... you don’t need a hoodie when you are always wearing a hat outdoors, like it was custom back then. In fact, it would be a nuisance.
That Burberry disaster is a visual manifeststion of my 2020 mental health crisis. Holy shit.
Riccardo's time is up soon, you can see he is referencing himself at Givenchy
Can we get a Scream Queens fashion roast for Halloween???? Love you Luke❤❤❤❤
My life is now complete! I've heard the word octopusian and am fulfilled. Thank you!
me wearing my 8 dollar leggings with 3 holes and 7 year old sweatshirt watching this: wow that a-line chiffon coat that creates that delicate but layered silhouette is really saying something
yeah me too. thats why i decided i'm only shopping from thredup, depop, poshmark, etsy, ebay and all thrift stores/good wills/salvation armies or making the clothes myself. because i am DONE wearing those cheap ass disgusting fast fashion clothes. im wearing nice shit that isn't going to destroy the environment. only silk, linen, wool, cotton and plant cellulose based fabrics (viscose, rayon, bamboo) from here on out for me. f**k fast fashion, walmart and amazon. looking good and knowing you aren't giving your money to garbage companies who are basically using slave labor all while destroying the environment makes you feel great and be confident.
That seashell portrait pattern is a reference to fruit/vegetable portraits by Giuseppe Archimbolo
"Unless rich ppl start playing polo matches in unicorns"... I think I will keep laughing till 2021 on that line alone :D :D
the robert wun collection has everything. the clothing, the hats, the MODELS, wow.
It would be so cool if you did a goofier review - like rating outfits from the anime Jojos Bizarre Adventure ( especially from season 4 & 5, because those outfits are ICONIC.) or reviewing Bratz dolls outfits, since they were such a huge fashion awakening for young girls and boys everywhere. I’d love a playful review like that! Thanks for all the great videos btw!☺️
1:05 oh my god I fell off my chairs lmaoooo
Whoa simon rocha woke me upppp!!!
Send Simone Rocha to Burberry, or literally anyone other than Tisci
I reaally like layers on outfits but Burberry made some CHOICES.
LITTLE ASK:are you gonna keep reacting to "making the cut"?
I guess I can maybe do new episodes!
I would die for the sweater you are wearing hahahaha I love it
Historical fashion person here! In 1856 it was customary for men to wear soft crowned hats on country endeavours and top hats to city endeavours that would require the iconic Burberry coat. Hoods were not in any way the norm or custom until at least the 1930s in its modern form, ergo the Thomas Burberry trench coat sans hood. The hooded jacket as we know it today was created in 1930s by Champion, and popularised by New York workers who worked in cold warehouses.
The title made me GAG😭😭
No hood for the trench coat was back then everybody would wear hats, and sometimes an umbrella as well. But never no hat
the red babydoll dress was hot & and the woman with the red tulle top and white skirt looked *powerful*
As a trench coat lover, these new trenches were marvelous!
Something about Burberry and it’s “vertical” line the fabric creates really speaks to me. The horrific shell printed dress was beautiful too!
@19:42 is giving me flashbacks to Skins culture when everyone who was 15-21 thought they were constantly going to a rave