Update: A few refinements I've made to my process: 1) Use cardstock or resume paper instead of cardboard (available at office supply stores) 2) make sure the materials are FLAT (I store my cork under a heavy book to make sure it is held flat) 3) treat the Neoprene with silicone waterproofing after gluing but before cutting, let it dry for a day before installing. 4) For larger pads (over 30mm) use plastic notebook dividers for the backing (also available office supply stores). 5) for thicker and larger pads you can also add a second cardstock layer between the Neoprene and cork. 6) Like all pads they will benefit from a level tone hole.
I repair woodwind instruments and I'm quite creative at that, but you're on a different level!! Thanks for your inspiration! Just watching your video's gives me lots of new ideas, ways to look at solutions and it's just great to watch you do the things you do. I'm a big fan!
Ive been making pads for over 20 years clarinet sax flute only 20mm on sax for palm keys the wad punch would cost a fortune for saxes.Flute was the mane deal and any colour they will last until you hit the dirt. I reppaded a 1920's metal clarinet in blue pads it looked awesome I will post a video one day. Mobile Woodwind Service Melb Aus. Cheers
I'm glad someone's finally made a video on making rudimentary pads. I will definitely need this at some point. What can be used for diy resonators and what would be the best way to attach them?
Good question. I would assume that a metal washer would be a good option. A small pop rivet would probably be a good way to attach it. Alternatively you could also use a rounded thumb tack if you cut off the excess portion of the pin.
Excellent. You have given me some ideas. I never like throwing things away without savaging good stuff. We had a leather sofa that was no longer needed but the leather was good. I cut the leather off and saved mist if it. I reckon it could form the top layer of a pad.
@@Jared_De_Leon guess what I just figured out????......... You're exactly right! I bought two sets for both of my tenors only to find out they both need changing!
Probably not, mylar has almost no give so it would be a poor choice. Even with a thin film I doubt it would seal very well, you need a material that will conform to the small microscopic imperfections on wooden tone holes.
Just make a few pads, two palm keys and octave pads that work!........ I'm inspired to use these idea on all the pads that held shut and use high quality roo pads ok the upper and lower stacks! Big thumbs up for the idea!👍🏾😎
I recommend buying thin walled tubing with the ID you need and sharpening the end. It’s the best way to get a nice clean cut short of buying a hole punch set.
@@raefblack7906 Partially cut a 2" or so wood disc with a hole saw on your electric drill. Use 3/4" or thicker wood, as you wish, but do not completly drill though... leave about 1/4" to go before the disc is completely drilled through. This allow you to easily hold the wood in place while drilling it. Hole saws use a 1/4" pilot drill in their centers to hold the saw in place as it drills though the wood. Use the 1/4 inch pilot hole that was made, and use that as your guide hole for the cutting tube, Make the hole a little larger than the hole punch tube you wish to mount. When the center hole is cut about 3/4 through the wood discc, but not all the way through the disk, stop drilling. This prevents the hole punch tube from pushing through and out the top of the wood disk when it is inserted. . Now, put the hole saw you were using, back in your drill, and then back into the wood disc which was only partially drilled through, and finish cutting. The mostly predrilled disk will act as the hole saw's guide to finish the jog. { All of this is done on top of a plank of scrap wood, for the hole saw to cut into as it breaks through the wood being drilled . Now the wood disk is free of the board it was cut from. Sand the wood disk sides and edges smooth to avoid splinter. Place the sharpened hole punch into hole in center of disc and use three shims to center as glue dries. When glue is dried, drill correct size small hole through side of wood dist and into the glued in side of hole punch. This allows you to lock in hole puch with a long screw. The dried glue holds the hole puch in center on the wood disc (handle), and the screw prevents the hole punch from breaking free as you twist the wood disc handle to cut out your rubber discs. Make sure you have the hole punch tube long enough so you can easily sharpen it with sandpaper or a sharpening wheel.
I have been searching for ever for information concerning the making of instrument pads of silicone there does not exist any such ever posted. The foam material seems to be dull on both sides which resembles open cell material. Also what is the purpose of the cork sheet? Could you not cement the foam layer directly on to the cardboard disc? Would you know about using silicone sealant for instrument pads? I hope you will be able to help me either with a video which so many many technicians are looking out for or with references to videos, posts, articles or even literature that gives in practical details the method of making silicone pads. The hardness or softness of the pads must be that of average human finger pad which is ShoreA 35. Hoping for some communication from you and thanking you.
This is closed cell foam. The cork is to give it thickness but yes you could theoretically use just foam and cardboard if you have thin pads. ShoreA 35 seems a bit hard for pads, I might try something like Shore 00 30.
Thank you sincerely for your so prompt reply. I live in a third world country and obtaining materials essential to instrument refurbishing is extremely difficult if not just impossible. I have been trying to obtain closed cell neoprene foam of 3mm thickness for ever and nothing has come of my continuing effort. The only source available to us over here is the local branch of Amazon and as demand for most all products is either limited or nonexistent, the range of products available is accordingly limited. I managed to obtain what was advertised as closed cell neoprene foam at great cost and it turned out to be open cell rubber foam in tape form. I have been engaged in woodwind refurbishing for more than fifty years and when I started, all essential material, springs, pads etc etc were easily available as this country was part of the Empire and economically sound. Presently things are not quite right with inflation running at several thousand percent. As closed cell neoprene is not available at any cost over here I have been planning to use silicone sealant with is available easily but also at high cost. I would like to thoroughly know about how to use this material before I try out the process. There are totally no videos but yours illustrating the use of synthetic material for flute pads. I have written to most of the instrument repair tool dealers as also consultants and amateurs but as regular pads are easily available where these people live they cannot see just why I am bothering to use silicone or neoprene. I used to play flute but switched to tenor and alto Keilwerths and these wonderful horns are as yet playable with the original pads as I have soaked the pads totally with liquid paraffin or paraffin oil or mineral oil as it is known in other parts. I saw a very interesting video by a Dutch player on making sax pads from MDF and silicone. But though I can follow the basics, I am not able to follow the translation. Perhaps you have seen this video. It is titled An alternate method for sax pads using MDF and silicone. The translation does not make sense. Thank you again sincerely for your reply and I shall be looking forward to any help you might be able to offer me. Thank you. My email address is vivianastridge@gmail.com.
In my earlier reply I had forgotten to refer to the hardness or softness of the silicone pad I have noted that you consider the hardness of Shore A 35 to be too hard for the intended use. Many years ago when I was in contact with a rubber molder, I had measured the hardness of my own finger pads and this was as mentioned. I purchased some insoles used by some patients, and these were made of silicone and were very very soft. From the published chart these had a hardness of 0030. Also from the chart the hardness of many common rubbers are given and the hardness of pencil top erasers is given as Shore A 40 and that of ordinary rubber bands as Shore A 30. The hardness of jelly bear candy is given as 0010. I am now not at all sure what the hardness should be now that you have referred to the matter. That Dutch video has the sealing ring of pure silicone and I do not know just what hardness this is . But as these special sax pads are available for sale they must surely work. It would be a great boon to me if you could bring yourself to see the video I refer to. I feel sure you will be able to make out just how the pad is fixed to the cup or the cup to the pad. Also what thickness of silicone is finally built up in the groove. The width of the groove seems to be around 6mm. No mention is made as to how the silicone cuild up is smoothed out or whether it is smoothed out at all. Working with silicone is very difficult as it stick to everything and cannot be smoothed out without special liquids. If you are not too interested in my project would it be possible for you to pass on our correspondence to someone who would be? I shall surely appreciate you help in whatever way you possibly can offer this. The very best to you, and thank you.
Dear Mr De Leon, I had written to you some time back requesting some details related to the use of MDF and silicone for saxophone pads. but for some reason you have not favored me with a reply. I referred to the post concerning the alternative method of making pads for saxophone and had suggested that reading this article would help in understanding the method which because of the language I could not follow. What exactly is the thickness of the silicone layer in the wood form? And how is this form finally fitted into the cup?. Also I would like to know about the closed cell neoprene material you used for your flute pads. Does this material have both sides shiny? Or one side shiny and the other dull? Please help me out with my problem . I live in a third world country and obtaining instrument materials is worse than finding hen’s teeth/ thank you sincerely.
@@vivianastridge2167 Perhaps you could use either bicycle or automotive tire inner tubes for making rubber discs? Also, EDPM or similar, as used for waterproofing on home shower construction, or outdoor pool construction? You can cast "rubber" sheets from waxed steel or glass sheets with spacers ( perhaps washers or newer coins?} ???? You can cast silicone caulking, but also silicion or urethane flexable casting rubbers often used for mold making for sculpture or jewerly making.
The great thing about these pads is you can make them in any size you want, you just need to make a cutter. The largest size I've gone to is 70 mm for a sax
Update: A few refinements I've made to my process: 1) Use cardstock or resume paper instead of cardboard (available at office supply stores) 2) make sure the materials are FLAT (I store my cork under a heavy book to make sure it is held flat) 3) treat the Neoprene with silicone waterproofing after gluing but before cutting, let it dry for a day before installing. 4) For larger pads (over 30mm) use plastic notebook dividers for the backing (also available office supply stores). 5) for thicker and larger pads you can also add a second cardstock layer between the Neoprene and cork. 6) Like all pads they will benefit from a level tone hole.
nice !!!! thickness dimentions of neoprene ,cork and card board pleasee???
@@nikosdoukas2026 1/16" for both neoprene and cork. Cardstock usually measures in points, a 10pt cardstock is 0.010" and 24pt is 0.024".
I did it on my Vito alto sax of '80.
I did it whitouth desmounting the sax.
My sax, now, sounds very good.
Thanks so much!!!
Ugo
I repair woodwind instruments and I'm quite creative at that, but you're on a different level!! Thanks for your inspiration! Just watching your video's gives me lots of new ideas, ways to look at solutions and it's just great to watch you do the things you do. I'm a big fan!
Ive been making pads for over 20 years clarinet sax flute only 20mm on sax for palm keys the wad punch would cost a fortune for saxes.Flute was the mane deal and any colour they will last until you hit the dirt. I reppaded a 1920's metal clarinet in blue pads it looked awesome I will post a video one day. Mobile Woodwind Service Melb Aus. Cheers
Great Video! Now all I need to do is own a bass clarinet or sax!
Might you have a preferred method of mounting the pad to the instrument? I see shellac all over UA-cam, wondering about alternatives for a sax.
I'm glad someone's finally made a video on making rudimentary pads. I will definitely need this at some point.
What can be used for diy resonators and what would be the best way to attach them?
thats the same question i wanted to ask also. :)
Good question. I would assume that a metal washer would be a good option. A small pop rivet would probably be a good way to attach it. Alternatively you could also use a rounded thumb tack if you cut off the excess portion of the pin.
@@Jared_De_Leon Thank you, I'll try washers and see how it goes
Excellent. You have given me some ideas. I never like throwing things away without savaging good stuff. We had a leather sofa that was no longer needed but the leather was good. I cut the leather off and saved mist if it. I reckon it could form the top layer of a pad.
Hi Jared. I was wondering if I could do away with the cork layer and use a 3 mm neoprene sheet and the cardboard backing. What do you think? Thanks.
It would be very squishy. Probably not the best idea unfortunately.
hello, thank you for this informative video, could you clarify the thicknesses of materials that you used for these pads
The foam and cork are both 1/16” and the cardboard is about 1/32”
Jared De Leon thanks a ton
@@Jared_De_Leon These are the sizes for saxophone, correct?
Would these pads be better than the pads that come with the cheap chinese clarinets from eBay and Amazon?
Absolutely. The pads that come with cheap Chinese clarinets often rarely last more than a few months before needing replacement.
@@Jared_De_Leon I figured.
@@Jared_De_Leon guess what I just figured out????......... You're exactly right! I bought two sets for both of my tenors only to find out they both need changing!
This is still the best video on DIY pads I’ve seen.
Have you changed anything in your method or materials over the years?
Not really, though I am experimenting with EPDM foam.
@@Jared_De_Leon Hello and thank you for the video! Did you found EPDM to be better than neoprene? Thanks!
Hi, would EVA foam also work instead of the neoprene. I'm having a hard time sourcing neoprene sheets.
It’s a bit squishy, it’s not the best option but if it’s all you can find it will work.
Bicycle inner tube?
Can you use Mylar instead of Neoprene for the sealing layer?
Probably not, mylar has almost no give so it would be a poor choice. Even with a thin film I doubt it would seal very well, you need a material that will conform to the small microscopic imperfections on wooden tone holes.
@@Jared_De_Leon
Thank you.
I had thought for a long time that the Mylar might be a good choice for Flute.
I guess not.
Just make a few pads, two palm keys and octave pads that work!........ I'm inspired to use these idea on all the pads that held shut and use high quality roo pads ok the upper and lower stacks! Big thumbs up for the idea!👍🏾😎
I think you're right, quality pads for the open keys and these for the closed keys which wear out/compress faster
Great video! What tool are you using to cut out the pads?
I recommend buying thin walled tubing with the ID you need and sharpening the end. It’s the best way to get a nice clean cut short of buying a hole punch set.
Question: how did you make the hole punch.
Find any thin metal tube with the right ID and grind the edge sharp. I’ve used anything from plumbing pipe to pieces of an old tire pressure gauge.
@@Jared_De_Leon Kool! How'd you get the pressure ring on it . Did you solder it on yourself?
Raef Black no it was on there. It think it was a knob for a drawer or something. I use literally whatever works to make my punches.
@@Jared_De_Leon Ok thanks.. will keep a look out , Is that Bass clarinet home made?
@@raefblack7906 Partially cut a 2" or so wood disc with a hole saw on your electric drill. Use 3/4" or thicker wood, as you wish, but do not completly drill though... leave about 1/4" to go before the disc is completely drilled through. This allow you to easily hold the wood in place while drilling it. Hole saws use a 1/4" pilot drill in their centers to hold the saw in place as it drills though the wood. Use the 1/4 inch pilot hole that was made, and use that as your guide hole for the cutting tube, Make the hole a little larger than the hole punch tube you wish to mount. When the center hole is cut about 3/4 through the wood discc, but not all the way through the disk, stop drilling. This prevents the hole punch tube from pushing through and out the top of the wood disk when it is inserted. . Now, put the hole saw you were using, back in your drill, and then back into the wood disc which was only partially drilled through, and finish cutting. The mostly predrilled disk will act as the hole saw's guide to finish the jog. { All of this is done on top of a plank of scrap wood, for the hole saw to cut into as it breaks through the wood being drilled . Now the wood disk is free of the board it was cut from. Sand the wood disk sides and edges smooth to avoid splinter. Place the sharpened hole punch into hole in center of disc and use three shims to center as glue dries. When glue is dried, drill correct size small hole through side of wood dist and into the glued in side of hole punch. This allows you to lock in hole puch with a long screw. The dried glue holds the hole puch in center on the wood disc (handle), and the screw prevents the hole punch from breaking free as you twist the wood disc handle to cut out your rubber discs. Make sure you have the hole punch tube long enough so you can easily sharpen it with sandpaper or a sharpening wheel.
I have been searching for ever for information concerning the making of instrument pads of silicone there does not exist any such ever posted. The foam material seems to be dull on both sides which resembles open cell material. Also what is the purpose of the cork sheet? Could you not cement the foam layer directly on to the cardboard disc? Would you know about using silicone sealant for instrument pads? I hope you will be able to help me either with a video which so many many technicians are looking out for or with references to videos, posts, articles or even literature that gives in practical details the method of making silicone pads. The hardness or softness of the pads must be that of average human finger pad which is ShoreA 35. Hoping for some communication from you and thanking you.
This is closed cell foam. The cork is to give it thickness but yes you could theoretically use just foam and cardboard if you have thin pads. ShoreA 35 seems a bit hard for pads, I might try something like Shore 00 30.
Thank you sincerely for your so prompt reply. I live in a third world country and obtaining materials essential to instrument refurbishing is extremely difficult if not just impossible. I have been trying to obtain closed cell neoprene foam of 3mm thickness for ever and nothing has come of my continuing effort. The only source available to us over here is the local branch of Amazon and as demand for most all products is either limited or nonexistent, the range of products available is accordingly limited. I managed to obtain what was advertised as closed cell neoprene foam at great cost and it turned out to be open cell rubber foam in tape form. I have been engaged in woodwind refurbishing for more than fifty years and when I started, all essential material, springs, pads etc etc were easily available as this country was part of the Empire and economically sound. Presently things are not quite right with inflation running at several thousand percent. As closed cell neoprene is not available at any cost over here I have been planning to use silicone sealant with is available easily but also at high cost. I would like to thoroughly know about how to use this material before I try out the process. There are totally no videos but yours illustrating the use of synthetic material for flute pads. I have written to most of the instrument repair tool dealers as also consultants and amateurs but as regular pads are easily available where these people live they cannot see just why I am bothering to use silicone or neoprene. I used to play flute but switched to tenor and alto Keilwerths and these wonderful horns are as yet playable with the original pads as I have soaked the pads totally with liquid paraffin or paraffin oil or mineral oil as it is known in other parts. I saw a very interesting video by a Dutch player on making sax pads from MDF and silicone. But though I can follow the basics, I am not able to follow the translation. Perhaps you have seen this video. It is titled An alternate method for sax pads using MDF and silicone. The translation does not make sense. Thank you again sincerely for your reply and I shall be looking forward to any help you might be able to offer me. Thank you. My email address is vivianastridge@gmail.com.
In my earlier reply I had forgotten to refer to the hardness or softness of the silicone pad I have noted that you consider the hardness of Shore A 35 to be too hard for the intended use. Many years ago when I was in contact with a rubber molder, I had measured the hardness of my own finger pads and this was as mentioned. I purchased some insoles used by some patients, and these were made of silicone and were very very soft. From the published chart these had a hardness of 0030. Also from the chart the hardness of many common rubbers are given and the hardness of pencil top erasers is given as Shore A 40 and that of ordinary rubber bands as Shore A 30. The hardness of jelly bear candy is given as 0010. I am now not at all sure what the hardness should be now that you have referred to the matter. That Dutch video has the sealing ring of pure silicone and I do not know just what hardness this is . But as these special sax pads are available for sale they must surely work. It would be a great boon to me if you could bring yourself to see the video I refer to. I feel sure you will be able to make out just how the pad is fixed to the cup or the cup to the pad. Also what thickness of silicone is finally built up in the groove. The width of the groove seems to be around 6mm. No mention is made as to how the silicone cuild up is smoothed out or whether it is smoothed out at all. Working with silicone is very difficult as it stick to everything and cannot be smoothed out without special liquids. If you are not too interested in my project would it be possible for you to pass on our correspondence to someone who would be? I shall surely appreciate you help in whatever way you possibly can offer this. The very best to you, and thank you.
Dear Mr De Leon,
I had written to you some time back requesting some details related to the use of MDF and silicone for saxophone pads. but for some reason you have not favored me with a reply. I referred to the post concerning the alternative method of making pads for saxophone and had suggested that reading this article would help in understanding the method which because of the language I could not follow. What exactly is the thickness of the silicone layer in the wood form? And how is this form finally fitted into the cup?. Also I would like to know about the closed cell neoprene material you used for your flute pads. Does this material have both sides shiny? Or one side shiny and the other dull? Please help me out with my problem . I live in a third world country and obtaining instrument materials is worse than finding hen’s teeth/ thank you sincerely.
@@vivianastridge2167 Perhaps you could use either bicycle or automotive tire inner tubes for making rubber discs? Also, EDPM or similar, as used for waterproofing on home shower construction, or outdoor pool construction? You can cast "rubber" sheets from waxed steel or glass sheets with spacers ( perhaps washers or newer coins?} ???? You can cast silicone caulking, but also silicion or urethane flexable casting rubbers often used for mold making for sculpture or jewerly making.
You, sir, are a legend. You have earned a faithful subscriber in me! This video is amazing for an aspiring instrument maker like me!
thanks for this Jared. much appreciated
Wouldn’t you need to make bigger ones for my project?
The great thing about these pads is you can make them in any size you want, you just need to make a cutter. The largest size I've gone to is 70 mm for a sax
@Jared De Leon Okay, but do you ever want to build a hyperoctosubcontrabassoon reed?
I see no reason to, it would basically be a conversation piece at best.
Brilliant!
Roo, goat, etc., move over!
Thanks !!.