Couple of notes 1. Oil change -make sure the fill cap for the oil is off so it drains faster and so you don’t have it splashing, makes the stream steady. -when your replacing the o ring on the filter, make sure to coat it in some new oil 2. Spark plugs -when putting new plugs in, make sure that when you drop them in the hole to first back the plug out then screw it in to ensure you don’t strip any threads
Oil in the plug wells is very common. Clean it up and send it unless a mis develops. That goop on the plug was dielectric grease from the coil packs. Also, the coils pull out easily when you have the motor warm, does not have to be hot.
Slip sounds like an abused clutch. Interior air filters do not affect the engine or MPG. It would affect the ac/heater blower motor though. Your brake bleeding sequence was incorrect. You should bleed the caliper farthest from the master cylinder first. The sequence should be passenger rear, driver's rear, passenger front, and then driver's front. Thank you for this video. You reminded me that I should do a brake bleed flush on my car (Audi). I'll get that ECS Tuning bleeder system. That's very handy to have.
#1 it doesn’t have a valve or cam cover. That part is called the cam bridge. The cam bridge also has half of the cam bearings and is sealed with a special sealant. It’s a lot more of an involved process then a valve cover gasket. The bolts that hold it down will also need to be replaced as they are torque to yield. #2 the cabin filter is just for cabin air and has zero to do with fuel economy. It won’t restrict the air flow into the car or damage the blower motor. It needs to be replaced every 15k or 20k miles or every 2 years. #3 using a 2017 model the factory bleeding sequence is driver front, passenger front, driver rear, and passenger rear. VW recommends replacing the brake fluid every 2 years. The factory brake fluid is yellow brand new. The reason you replace it is because it absorbs water which lowers the boiling point and causes a spongy pedal. #4 that paste stuff you found on the spark plug is normal. It’s a silicon paste the factory applies to the ignition coils to help them slip on easier. #5 to pull the coils out easier twist them left and right and then pull them up. They pop out a lot easier that way.
Dude I had the exact same thing in my spark plug. I got quotes from vw and other off site auto maintenance places. 1000$ was the cost. Anyways I didn’t want to pay that I cleaned it to where it was spotless. I then scuffed around the o ring cover in the spark plug. I then used high temp rtv and spread it all over where it was leaking and around the entire circle just to be safe. Let it air dry for 24-48 hours. Put the spark plug back in. Checked again at 100 miles and it was spotless! Mine was also cylinder 4 btw. Hope you can give it a try to save some money if money is tight. Good luck!
Conventional brake bleed sequence is right rear first, left front last. I just checked on VW Vortex, and you are correct about the reverse sequence for these cars. Weird ... . You just saved me from making a mistake.
Just some tips, of course you dont want to burn yourself while draining the oil. But I always run the engine for a good 15-20 minutes to get it to operating temp to make sure you get all the oil out. Have a look at the drained volume of oil roughly, so the risk of overfill is minimized. When checking the level after fill up, this needs to be done when the engine is fully warmed up. But a rough level check can be done after a couple of minutes of running. Plugs: Good to blow the spark holes with air pressure to prevent dust and crap to fall into the engines cylinders, but this engine looked very clean. Very sorry to see your engine fail, I think I have seen more cars with this bearing issue. Make sure to check with your VW dealer for goodwill.
What you said at 12 min in. Its the clutch. My buddy has a mk7 6 speed with a neuspeed tune that adds 5-7psi depending on how you set it. It makes it about 310 wheel torque and 250 wheel hp. When you go mostly wide open throttle in 6th and the rpms dont match the acceleration of the speed, its clutch. I told him that since exactly what you're explaining happened to him. Stock clutch meant to handle at most 320lbft at the crank. 6th gear is always best test at WOT to see if clutch is good or not. When you have a dual clutch and tune it, you also get a TCU tune which adds clamping pressure to the clutches so it can handle the extra torque. Long story short. Your engine has so much torque and potential to increase rpms at that load and gear but the clutch doesn't have enough friction to handle all the torque in such a high or heavy gear. Just gotta get a good stage 2 clutch :)
From the vast amounts of EA888 engines i've worked on, its most likely the gasket maker that you put around the spark plug circles. Over time it gets brittle and may leak oil usually above 100k miles which is strange how you have it already. Change that and your spark plugs should be safe from oil but do look at instructions on how to do it because the valve cover itself is what holds down the camshafts down.
Hey FYI the oil you found in the spark plugs leaking is from the cam brigade leaking. It’s kind of a big job because the whole top of the valve cover is what hold down your cam shafts it’s like 6 or 7 hours of labor
I have a dsg so I’m not exactly experienced with manual gti’s but I’ve heard that even with a stage 1 tune u can get clutch slip, and seeing as that car has a downpipe, I’m guessing it has stage 2 so if it’s the stock clutch, that clutch is probably shot
Guys in VW shops bleed the brakes from the back right (most distant brake from master cylinder) cuz' that way the air goes out, this way when you start from the front some air will stay in the system, worked so myself all the time, never had a problem, only few other cars have another order of brake bleeding from this one, just a friendly tip, cheers from Croatia ✌
He is probably fine with the oil change but in the VW manuel for my 2018 gti you need to check the oil when it is at operating temperature and not cold. After I found out and checked the oil properly, I discovered I overfilled. I needed to drain about 300ml of oil because I added 6 liters like him.
Was mine as well until I got older and went the sedan route. Now that the MK7 GLI is almost identical I ordered one of those this year. Driving cross country, while not often, is unfortunately not new to me having more room for stuff and dog helps a lot.
Actually this is a good video, since now you're gonna show up an A to Z rebuild of the engine and how to properly take care of it, also maybe check the transmission and clutch while you're at it, in the end you'll have a brand new Golf GTI :) keep it up
a quick tip, when you put the same plugs back in they do not require the original torque spec, because the gasket has been crushed. I would recommend a lower torque spec from there. As for oil on the plugs, it could be the valve cover o-ring gaskets. I would go that route first.
The slipping feeling under heavy acceleration in high gear is very likely to be clutch related. Going 3/4 throttle in 6th at 65mpg puts a high load on the engine, same for 35 in 3rd. This is a good way to test if the clutch is slipping, though it can cause damage to the engine if done too much. You should always downshift to accelerate and pass. The oil in the spark plug tube is likely due to the seal in the valve cover failing, whether it's RTV silicone or a gasket. When you removed the plug, the oil in the spark plug tube would have drained down the threads to the end of the plug and into the cylinder. I am not sure what the next video holds, but oil in spark plug tubes is very common and not in and of itself a reason to rebuild an engine.
Well seal needs to be replaced and valve cover since that is off. Valve cover notorious for leaking, and causing plastic water pumps to crack when hot oil drips on it. Same issue with son's GLI 2.0.
just found the exact issue with my a3 on my spark plugs, cylinder 4 had oil and the other 3 were fine. I'm guessing its because of the pcv system but I've left it for a while and nothing bad has happened
My mk 5 gti had the same problem with the clutch when you slammed on the gas it felt like a automatic, any gear the rpms would rise like crazy but found out my clutch was 250k on a clutch not bad
I would recommend not to rebuild the engine but buy used and sell a car till it still holds the value,you won’t be driving a this GTI till the wheels fall off. In 2-3 years you will be bored of it. $13k for rebuild is a lot to lose in 2 years, save at least $5k with used engine. Edited: Someone in instagram recommended to get Golf R, but what’s the point, GTI and R share the same 4 cylinder but a little more power🤷♂️
Do you have experience with the meguiars 110/210 2 step? Meguiars chemist's talk about it like everything else they have ever made is shit compared to it.
Always down shift when trying to go WOT! you're putting too much pressure on the engine and on the clutch. 6th gear at 65mph and WOT is a good way to break stuff. DOWNSHIFT
Sorry to say man .. 13k is not worthed ..i been wrenching for 19+years i have worked on all kind of cars .. vw are good when you get them brand new..and modified them .. but after a while they are not worthed.. especially if you trying to get the most power out of it.. 13k is just the beginning..good luck
My relatives have a 2013 jetta with 180k miles... only issue was a recall and a headlight bulb that burns out a lot; what a great car it is for them, i guess they got lucky!
Ryan Richter i pretty sure your relatives dont beat that car or try to put high performance upgrades..etc.. all depends how you keep up to maintenance and dont abuse the car.. like i told my customers .. before you do any upgrade to your car .. make sure what getting in to it .. the (tuner car world )is a whole different topic
I don’t know. I have a few friends with nothing but long lasting VWs and my ‘17 GTI is at 107k miles(tuned since a 50k) and I beat the hell out of it without a single hiccup.
Mine were 🤷♂️. Granted, my MK4 GLS needed a new heater core around 115k I think. Lasted 15 years before a wreck killed it. My MK6 2.5 SE didn't have enough miles or age to show any issues as it was at 87-88k miles and 8 years old. Another wreck :-(.
Couple of notes
1. Oil change
-make sure the fill cap for the oil is off so it drains faster and so you don’t have it splashing, makes the stream steady.
-when your replacing the o ring on the filter, make sure to coat it in some new oil
2. Spark plugs
-when putting new plugs in, make sure that when you drop them in the hole to first back the plug out then screw it in to ensure you don’t strip any threads
Thank you for notes!
Oil in the plug wells is very common. Clean it up and send it unless a mis develops. That goop on the plug was dielectric grease from the coil packs. Also, the coils pull out easily when you have the motor warm, does not have to be hot.
Slip sounds like an abused clutch. Interior air filters do not affect the engine or MPG. It would affect the ac/heater blower motor though. Your brake bleeding sequence was incorrect. You should bleed the caliper farthest from the master cylinder first. The sequence should be passenger rear, driver's rear, passenger front, and then driver's front. Thank you for this video. You reminded me that I should do a brake bleed flush on my car (Audi). I'll get that ECS Tuning bleeder system. That's very handy to have.
What happens if the break fluid change is done in the wrong order? 🤔
@@valkyriesnp You just won't get all of the old fluid out of the lines.
@@destroyerofmines152 Oh got it. Thank you! 👍🏻
Female Drummer np
I was told to bleed them in that order, I could have been told wrong. 🤷♂️
#1 it doesn’t have a valve or cam cover. That part is called the cam bridge. The cam bridge also has half of the cam bearings and is sealed with a special sealant. It’s a lot more of an involved process then a valve cover gasket. The bolts that hold it down will also need to be replaced as they are torque to yield.
#2 the cabin filter is just for cabin air and has zero to do with fuel economy. It won’t restrict the air flow into the car or damage the blower motor. It needs to be replaced every 15k or 20k miles or every 2 years.
#3 using a 2017 model the factory bleeding sequence is driver front, passenger front, driver rear, and passenger rear. VW recommends replacing the brake fluid every 2 years. The factory brake fluid is yellow brand new. The reason you replace it is because it absorbs water which lowers the boiling point and causes a spongy pedal.
#4 that paste stuff you found on the spark plug is normal. It’s a silicon paste the factory applies to the ignition coils to help them slip on easier.
#5 to pull the coils out easier twist them left and right and then pull them up. They pop out a lot easier that way.
Finally a VW tech, i'm guessing. Good advice though.
peyton allie very close to VW and yes a tech.
Dude I had the exact same thing in my spark plug. I got quotes from vw and other off site auto maintenance places. 1000$ was the cost. Anyways I didn’t want to pay that I cleaned it to where it was spotless. I then scuffed around the o ring cover in the spark plug. I then used high temp rtv and spread it all over where it was leaking and around the entire circle just to be safe. Let it air dry for 24-48 hours. Put the spark plug back in. Checked again at 100 miles and it was spotless! Mine was also cylinder 4 btw. Hope you can give it a try to save some money if money is tight. Good luck!
Conventional brake bleed sequence is right rear first, left front last. I just checked on VW Vortex, and you are correct about the reverse sequence for these cars. Weird ... . You just saved me from making a mistake.
When you change the brake fluid is usually advised best to start from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder pump
So in reverse order of what he did ?
@@AnonYmous-zt6kr indeed, start from the rear passenger, to rear driver, and so on
I was told to do it in that sequence, but I could have been told wrong.
@@ChicagoAutoPros if you take me in for the job I'll do the mechanics on the weekends.
For these cars, the order he did it in the video is the official recommended VW sequence due to the ABS system
"How to maintenance GTI" the struggle is real on Fridays
Fuck it, lol
@@ChicagoAutoPros vibe check passed
Just some tips, of course you dont want to burn yourself while draining the oil. But I always run the engine for a good 15-20 minutes to get it to operating temp to make sure you get all the oil out.
Have a look at the drained volume of oil roughly, so the risk of overfill is minimized. When checking the level after fill up, this needs to be done when the engine is fully warmed up. But a rough level check can be done after a couple of minutes of running.
Plugs: Good to blow the spark holes with air pressure to prevent dust and crap to fall into the engines cylinders, but this engine looked very clean.
Very sorry to see your engine fail, I think I have seen more cars with this bearing issue. Make sure to check with your VW dealer for goodwill.
What you said at 12 min in. Its the clutch. My buddy has a mk7 6 speed with a neuspeed tune that adds 5-7psi depending on how you set it. It makes it about 310 wheel torque and 250 wheel hp. When you go mostly wide open throttle in 6th and the rpms dont match the acceleration of the speed, its clutch. I told him that since exactly what you're explaining happened to him. Stock clutch meant to handle at most 320lbft at the crank. 6th gear is always best test at WOT to see if clutch is good or not. When you have a dual clutch and tune it, you also get a TCU tune which adds clamping pressure to the clutches so it can handle the extra torque.
Long story short. Your engine has so much torque and potential to increase rpms at that load and gear but the clutch doesn't have enough friction to handle all the torque in such a high or heavy gear.
Just gotta get a good stage 2 clutch :)
Ask humble mechanic or shopdap. They yt as well
From the vast amounts of EA888 engines i've worked on, its most likely the gasket maker that you put around the spark plug circles. Over time it gets brittle and may leak oil usually above 100k miles which is strange how you have it already. Change that and your spark plugs should be safe from oil but do look at instructions on how to do it because the valve cover itself is what holds down the camshafts down.
Always look forward to all your videos. Please never stop making them.
Pro tip, spray your Chemical Guys new car and leather scent on the cabin filter
Hey FYI the oil you found in the spark plugs leaking is from the cam brigade leaking. It’s kind of a big job because the whole top of the valve cover is what hold down your cam shafts it’s like 6 or 7 hours of labor
It will be taken care of with the engine rebuild I hope.
I have a dsg so I’m not exactly experienced with manual gti’s but I’ve heard that even with a stage 1 tune u can get clutch slip, and seeing as that car has a downpipe, I’m guessing it has stage 2 so if it’s the stock clutch, that clutch is probably shot
At least the garage doors were closed when the GTI went up on the lift this time. :)
Yep, learned my lesson!
Guys in VW shops bleed the brakes from the back right (most distant brake from master cylinder) cuz' that way the air goes out, this way when you start from the front some air will stay in the system, worked so myself all the time, never had a problem, only few other cars have another order of brake bleeding from this one, just a friendly tip, cheers from Croatia ✌
LOL! This made me go downstairs to change the cabin filter in my Mk 7 GTI. The new one has been sitting in my passenger seat for 10 days...my bad!
He is probably fine with the oil change but in the VW manuel for my 2018 gti you need to check the oil when it is at operating temperature and not cold. After I found out and checked the oil properly, I discovered I overfilled. I needed to drain about 300ml of oil because I added 6 liters like him.
Looking sweet my friend,for sure the paint as been serviced,man that’s a kick in the dangling ones
A GTI is my dream since I was a kid
Nica car man! Amazing content
Was mine as well until I got older and went the sedan route. Now that the MK7 GLI is almost identical I ordered one of those this year. Driving cross country, while not often, is unfortunately not new to me having more room for stuff and dog helps a lot.
Great vid! Your #1 CA fan.
You truly are a "Trip" my Man! Sorry of your engine news! J
Ramps work great for oil change.
Actually this is a good video, since now you're gonna show up an A to Z rebuild of the engine and how to properly take care of it, also maybe check the transmission and clutch while you're at it, in the end you'll have a brand new Golf GTI :) keep it up
a quick tip, when you put the same plugs back in they do not require the original torque spec, because the gasket has been crushed. I would recommend a lower torque spec from there. As for oil on the plugs, it could be the valve cover o-ring gaskets. I would go that route first.
My friend had the same issue and his clutch was basically done he a mechanic at the Vw dealership I work at
Last time I check, when bleeding brakes. Start from the furtherst away from master cylinder and work your way to closest.
The slipping feeling under heavy acceleration in high gear is very likely to be clutch related. Going 3/4 throttle in 6th at 65mpg puts a high load on the engine, same for 35 in 3rd. This is a good way to test if the clutch is slipping, though it can cause damage to the engine if done too much. You should always downshift to accelerate and pass.
The oil in the spark plug tube is likely due to the seal in the valve cover failing, whether it's RTV silicone or a gasket. When you removed the plug, the oil in the spark plug tube would have drained down the threads to the end of the plug and into the cylinder. I am not sure what the next video holds, but oil in spark plug tubes is very common and not in and of itself a reason to rebuild an engine.
Well seal needs to be replaced and valve cover since that is off. Valve cover notorious for leaking, and causing plastic water pumps to crack when hot oil drips on it. Same issue with son's GLI 2.0.
just found the exact issue with my a3 on my spark plugs, cylinder 4 had oil and the other 3 were fine. I'm guessing its because of the pcv system but I've left it for a while and nothing bad has happened
23:15 Yep... nailed it hahaha
🤣
You lost about 4 hp by going from a red oil filter gasket to a black one. Great vid
When bleeding the brakes start from the back
My mk 5 gti had the same problem with the clutch when you slammed on the gas it felt like a automatic, any gear the rpms would rise like crazy but found out my clutch was 250k on a clutch not bad
Next time try mobile one inc,heard they're really good with volkswagens.
Liqui moly is better than mobil 1 lol
It figures, just past the engine warranty period!
What did you find out about the oil in the plug well? I’m about to do this job myself. Thanks!
I would recommend not to rebuild the engine but buy used and sell a car till it still holds the value,you won’t be driving a this GTI till the wheels fall off. In 2-3 years you will be bored of it. $13k for rebuild is a lot to lose in 2 years, save at least $5k with used engine.
Edited:
Someone in instagram recommended to get Golf R, but what’s the point, GTI and R share the same 4 cylinder but a little more power🤷♂️
4WD is a nice add with the R.
That issue with slipping you mentioned in the video sounds to me like it’s misfiring as you said it happens when you you accelerate
You should start at the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest.
Can we get a detail video of that green demon in the background at 4:39?
Do you have experience with the meguiars 110/210 2 step? Meguiars chemist's talk about it like everything else they have ever made is shit compared to it.
Why add 6L’s of oil? It’s 4.8L or max 5L’s… at least that’s how much I add in my MK6 GTI. Says 4.8L-5L’s in the book as well
I would say the slipping is dirty fuel
yeah I got rid of my GTI before 60k - the service guys recommended it lol...
Not a bad idea, I’m in it for the long haul! 😩
107k of abuse on mine without skipping a beat. Sorry for your loss.
105k on our 2015 problem free. APR stage 1 tuned since 60k
burb17 and right after posting my comment I got my first CEL 😂
K C 🤦🏼♂️
Its only valve cover seal,only problem with oil in that hole is potential misfiring .Why rebuild engine?
MILE VOJVODA you will have to watch the upcoming videos to fin out.
Chicago Auto Pros i’m in the same boat, what did you find out?
Always down shift when trying to go WOT! you're putting too much pressure on the engine and on the clutch. 6th gear at 65mph and WOT is a good way to break stuff. DOWNSHIFT
that’s what i just commented. wtf. 6 gear at 60 and tryna push boost at low rpm. tsk tsk.
10:19 do you have a link for this toolbox?
6 liters??? on gti??
All the UA-cam mechanics yet no one mentions change fluids in the “clean room” 😂
Seeing how you might need a new engine, maybe you should name this how not to maintain your gti LMAO, these are just jokes brother.
😂
Scotty is right. These cars r endless money pits
Still wrong about Kia Hyundai
My only recommendation is to use K&N air filters, both engine air filter and cabin air filter...
Wish I had a beard like that
"When in doubt grow it out!" - Sultan of Silver, George Bruno
why would you be in 6 gear at 60 and trying to push boost to pass someone on the highway? don’t be at low rpm and high boost. so bad
Sorry to say man .. 13k is not worthed ..i been wrenching for 19+years i have worked on all kind of cars .. vw are good when you get them brand new..and modified them .. but after a while they are not worthed.. especially if you trying to get the most power out of it.. 13k is just the beginning..good luck
My relatives have a 2013 jetta with 180k miles... only issue was a recall and a headlight bulb that burns out a lot; what a great car it is for them, i guess they got lucky!
Ryan Richter i pretty sure your relatives dont beat that car or try to put high performance upgrades..etc.. all depends how you keep up to maintenance and dont abuse the car.. like i told my customers .. before you do any upgrade to your car .. make sure what getting in to it .. the (tuner car world )is a whole different topic
I’m going to try and be a little nicer to it.
Chicago Auto Pros 😁😁
I don’t know. I have a few friends with nothing but long lasting VWs and my ‘17 GTI is at 107k miles(tuned since a 50k) and I beat the hell out of it without a single hiccup.
2nd from Puerto Rico 👍🇵🇷
Your always fast!
@@henryfreeman6113 You too😄👍
I was lucky since working from home in my regular job next to my cellphone and was going to the fridge to drink water.
”VWs are very reliable cars”
So easy to hate is it?
Mine were 🤷♂️. Granted, my MK4 GLS needed a new heater core around 115k I think. Lasted 15 years before a wreck killed it.
My MK6 2.5 SE didn't have enough miles or age to show any issues as it was at 87-88k miles and 8 years old. Another wreck :-(.
clutch slip
Lol, nice use of the English language in your title.
Its all for the comedic effect lol
Your front desk guy with the glasses should probably not be a helping hand when servicing your car, get help from someone with actual knowledge
get a honda
First!
I would of been first but I left a long comment 😬
When you see oil like that on your plugs, it means it’s time to trade it in. Lol at VW garbage