2267 3D Printing With the Monster - Elegoo Orangestorm Giga
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
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Ok , now print the Robert Statue life size!
Dressed as Isambard Kingdom Brunel!
lol - not even I am that egocentric mate lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering are you sure?
All hail Printzilla, devourer of spools.
lol - printzilla - i like that! lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering Put it on the machine, please!
Wow, I look forward to seeing the whole wind turbine !!! Thanks
cheers mate
Excellent to see your spirits high my friend. And great to have your inspirations uploading again. You motivate my mind. Thank you.
thank you mate
Damn, I thought my printer was a giant at 500 x 500 x 500 but that is insane. Can I suggest plexiglass sides to reduce warping from airflow and if you want quality all the way to the top it helps to add in your own supports. I like to lean the part over a bit so I can print supports under it, this eliminates the wobble but uses a heap more filament. Adding supports is in no way economical but it will supply a near perfect print.
nice suggestions cheers mate
@@ThinkingandTinkering it would be good if you only had to print out the supports once and be able to reuse them
@@SuperRama666 That is possible, as long as you don’t exceed the natural unsupported angle of the print. Most slicers will show what requires support but I would suggest supporting already printed material as opposed to getting the print to run up onto the support. This way you just slide the supports into place after the head has clearance. Leaning the print over also allows you to change the direction of force expressed on individual layers. Perhaps a merge of materials for the top and bottom of the supports to include a soft flexible surface to contact the print and bed.
Wow! Robert, that is amazing! I can't wait to see that assembled.
cheers mate
That is a big printer any bigger and you can print a car or even a house. I did see a CNC mill big enough to carve a full sized buck from rigid foam blocks to build a fiberglass body for a whole car body a year or so here on UA-cam, the guy built it himself. Thanks Robert
i must hunt that out mate - cheers
You are one of the few youtube creators that i would trust reviewing a products real capabilit. What i like and enjoy the most is your ability to teach the unteachable like myself, your approach is down to earth and is based on truth and well researched facts. Thank you for taking the time to teach us.
I can’t believe the size of that blade! Crazy times.
Nice. That turbine will be immense.
While I'm sure that it would take longer and use more filament, I wonder if you might get a better finish at the top by printing all three blades at one session using scaffolding to provide mutual support between the different structures. There'd be alot of waste, but would it be justified by better finish quality?
It would slow down the process considerably, but can the print head be slowed down as it works higher in the frame? Reducing that momentum might also reduce the jitter at higer levels on the frame.
good thinking mate - thanks for sharing
@@ThinkingandTinkering Attaching a full flat sheet to the frame on two adjacent sides will stiffen it a LOT too.
This is what I am talking about. A good look at a print from it. I don't think your little tripod will work for this new turbine. LOL! Thanks Rob! Keep them coming!
lol - no - i am going to have to think about the mount that's for sure lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering For sure!
That printer is a beast! Hopefully it's not too noisy in your house.
I just modded my printer with noctua fans. Still in progress though. Will be done this evening.
it was noisy when i was in the same room for sure
If it get up to high speed, you may need some internal support, or maybe fill it with foam, balancing them will be a chore at any rate. Please keep us posted.
How would a couple of layers of fibreglass work out? It would give strength and with sanding reduce drag?
What I have done before is use cyano acrylic resin as a skin coat - but it is going to need balancing for sure
@@ThinkingandTinkering
Beautiful Good Job 👍 as i told you THE WORLD 🌎 needs you maybe unbeknownst to you you give a lot ok anyways I'm literally happy to see you back and plodding along and trying and testing and doing and TEACHING OTHERS HOW TOO 🤔 Ha? All those young minds you've got thinking sorry young and old i should've said anyways all good all good all good and i don't know you but I'm glad your back seriously as i said you give a lot unbeknownst to you but you do and people appreciate you so as i said before chin up chest out march go or in this instance pedal that bike oh another thing I've been on channels having a look and you get mentioned so far n wide it's amazing you even have people telling others what you do and that they should take a look at your work etc again might not be nothing to you but just that free giving because you want to not cos you have to says a lot about a person ok that's why real people in real time are attracted by Good bringing Good ok anyways brilliant your back seriously spot on good man 👍👈
I introduced my son to your channel about 2years ago .He got into 3D printing He has three printers each one getting bigger. He loves using them .He makes models. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Gez
that is awesome mate!
Great to see you back in the "lab" Robert. My take on the cost of the 5kg spool being more than 5x1kg spools is simply that if you are going to print something really humongous you are going to need the 5kg spool which means they can charge you a premium as it's your only option.
Great to see you having some fun with the new Monster 🙂
lol - cheers mate
You could 3d print a rather large hobby rocket shell on that massive beast.
yes you could lol
You got a great tan out in the good weather, looking good !
lol - cheers mate
Certainly impressive start!
cheers mate
So glad to see you again. You are my only youtube subscription because you teach so many things so well. Thanks from across the pond.
thank you mate and thank you for subscribing
This is perfect for windballs! If you take a bicycle-rim in the middle it can be a start for a million pounds in price money! /Mikael
you are right it would be!
I am surprised that this printer's sides are not enclosed in a box. I would have thought it has to travel so far across the bed for large models that filament adhesion to itself would be a problem. I know the bed is heated but taller prints are far away from the bed. Thanks for showing it in action!
i am sure there are all kinds of adaptations to make mate - but at only 2,500 you have to expect some things on a wish list wouldn't be there
Top stuff Robert !
Look forward to the BIG Wind Turbine 🙂
cheers mate
What some people may not appreciate is that this printer has the capability to run four print heads. For REALLY big jobs, you can load the same filament on all four heads and when one head runs out of filament, another can take over. Most of us will never build anything that big, but for industrial applications like the machine was designed for, it might come in handy. The Elegoo people put some thought into their design. That's something I like to see -- even if I'll never have the opportunity to use their machine.
Do you know mate - i agree with your comment - nicely said mate - cheers
That is excellent. I have been making hydrofoil blades, similar shape to a turbine blade. To give extra strength I design in very narrow slots, 0.1 mm wide by a few mm long, into the side of the blade under tension. This gives extra strength, in case the inter-layer strength is not as good as it ideally would be. The slots run the length of the blade. In effect it is making the wall thickness much greater, without using up too much extra filament or adding much time to print.
For the hydrofoils I print them with zero infill, then fill them with expanding foam. It is virtually impossible to get them watertight, and the foam adds buoyancy.
Robert, come on, let's get creative.... Under the square assembly that the print-head is attached and slowly moves upward, make another square assembly that mounts to the underside of that square assembly. On the new assembly from the center of each side you could make an arm that would have some sort of a spring loaded rubber wheel at the arms end with adjustable tension. The 4 wheels would press against the completed portion thereby keeping it straight up and down and more than likely eliminate the wobble. When the print-head prints about the first 4 or 5 inches of the project, attach the pressure assembly you made to the bottom of the print-head assembly. You could even 3D print the new assembly. Just a thought.
it's a good thought mate - but remember Elegoo gave me this - I have to return the favour before i start chopping it up lol
For someone who knows nothing about 3D printing, an interesting insight for me into how it all works
awesome mate - i am glad it helped
Do be aware that the layer lines are weak so making a bunch of holes into the print then adding rods of wood in there to reinforce it would be quite a good idea!
Happy to see your smiling face again mate! Cheers!
awesome thank you mate
The second you said remember when we made this I gave out a little squeek and paused the video to write this lol this is gonna be a good one :)
And I was not disappointed lol wow! Gonna be fun seeing that come together and working chap :)
lol - awesome mate
I think that diagonal bracing is a must.
As the printing head gets higher it imparts more and more forces to the upright and that is not good for accuracy or finish quality.
maybe - i am not sure how much it is needed myself - but it wouldn't be hard to fit
A Worthy site. Love it
Always looking for an interesting
Topic
You fill that 👌👍
oh wow - cheers mate
Excellent choice of first print.
well done guv.🍻
cheers mate
Good to have you back Robert. X
cheers mate
Great to see new videos, love your content and your enthusiasm is contagious 😁
cheers mate
Looking pretty good Rob
Pretty impressive printer
Amazing how large one singe print can be with the right printer
Good luck with future print's
Can't wait to see what you print next with it
I am pretty pleased with it as a first print mate
Be careful about tip speeds, since you printed it vertically, and layer lines are the most common point of failure. you might consider printing these diagonally across the base of the printer, so that the layer lines won't be under so much stress. Alternatively, you could probably coat it in epoxy, or a fiber mesh bound with epoxy, just to safeguard a bit more
see video 2012
Love it! Can't wait for more projects! I'm trying to build a Darwin wind collector like you did videos on a while ago. I'm using a Bambu lab A1, and scaled it up to approximately .5 meter diameter and 1 meter height. Although to make it I have to print out about 36 different sections and glue them together. You could almost print it all in one go with this monster printer. Something like that or those rooftop "bladeless" Turbines like Ridgeblade or Aeromine would be awesome to try and print as fully formed as possible on your new printer.
I agree mate - they would!
Thats awesome! I expected bad things to happen at the top.
it did go pretty well! first print and straight off
youll be able to print all those pieces like the planetary gears and make a monster 3d turbine!
yep - lol
That is an awesome printer! What size of nozzle does it have?
curses i forgot to mention that - it comes with 0.2,0.4,0.6,0.8 and 1mm
@@ThinkingandTinkering awesome, I have a cr-10 and I just switched to a .8 nozzle that is a knockoff cht nozzle that prints really fast, it’s pretty fun to print with
Because of your videos I purchased an Elegoo Neptune 4 and am enjoying it.
I do differ from you on one aspect, data transfer. I was using the USB memory, as you do, but the printer is a good distance from my computer. Eventually, I connected the printer to my network via cat5e. The printer has a built in web page which displays the printer status, printing status, many printer controls, and, most conveniently, the ability to load the printer files to the printer directly from the computer and to then start the print. I just leave the USB memory in the printer and it behaves like a hard drive.
Also, because one accesses the printer via its local network ip address I even have the same functionality from my iPad.
You’ve mentioned the networking feature multiple times. Have you tried them? They may be simple but they are very useful and convenient.
Glad to have you back and enthused.
I was thinking of doing the same mate - but i just haven't got round to it - i think you might have inspired me there - cheers
Planing Robot lol, yeah you were not wrong.
Cannot wait to see the new turbine, I built a couple of the now "Mini" version and attached them to stepper motors and some lithium batteries to power hydroponic systems. This is going to be a whole new box of frogs. It looks like the printer is printing almost full size 1.75mm filament, that's awesome.
it is pretty awesome mate that's for sure
we have the exact same stool as the one back there.
awesome mate - we clearly have taste lol
glad to see you back, making inventing fun again
Thanks for showing this printer.
That is absolutely amazing, I want one!
itis an awesome thing lol
Putting on the ritz!
lol
Good to see you back at it! That is quite the print! Are you concerned about the layer adhesion when that starts to rotate quickly? I wonder if it might need a resin coating to strengthen it?
We use Rapid PLA+ on the CR-10 and it's fantastic, especially when it's been dehydrated to around 10%. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this printer!!
it is a good filament for all round work
That small turbine was spinning at quite a rate; will the bigger version be able to cope with the forces? Might it be worth printing the blades with a central channel that you could then slide a reinforcing rod or two into? Maybe terminate them in a reinforced cap at* the end of each blade?
One thing's for certain, I don't think you'll be quite as close to the bigger turbine during testing!
awesome that will be massive will bigger turbines make more power even if they take longer to complete a circle
absolutely mate
What are you getting ready to do? I'm getting ready for something big too!!!
it will take a while mate because these are big prints - and i don't want to let the cat out of the bag in case it fails lol
Great video as always Robert. That printer is huge, the downside for me is now seeing how I can personally justifying such a purchase.
KLIPPER!!!!! Whooooo!!
indeed
I'm sure you'll build amazing stuff with it, Robert. Can't wait to see what you'll come out with
For the average joe, though, that's the DivorceaTron 3000
Great work, more than 4 times the height of the base supports width starts to become unstable. you could try printing all 3 in a triangle arrangement with connecting supports between them all the way up so they act as a single stable body.
Beautiful
cheers mate
Fantastic... really good...
cheers mate
This is going to be cool.
for sure mate
I pulled the buy trigger on a QIDI Q1 Pro 3D Printer bundled with a filament dryer plus a kg of black PLA. It's scheduled to arrive Friday.
It will allow me to prototype a motor design I've had in mind for a while.
Qidi is good - i have one
@@ThinkingandTinkering
😎👍
Ya Gonna need a bigger Benchy!
lol
good stuff Robert, you might find the part will last longer with the grain along the length
check out video 2012 to see what i do to make it last longer mate
I’d guess like any casting, creating the support jig would be to prevent the vibration by adding single strands of spaghetti to a frame, for rigidity, cottled afterwards.
cheers mate
@@ThinkingandTinkering still waiting for a plastic stationary methane engine to be developed in response to our negligent polity.
Nicholas Tesla made everything on the kitchen table for us to follow, not for others to profit on.
I love your self autonomy demonstrations.
Thank you
Thanks again!
cheers mate
To save on filament could you print a skeleton and use a doped fabric or Mylar film? With Blades that size you can flash more than the usual LED😉
nice one mate - cheers
That print did come out surprisingly well given the lack of support. That says a lot about the printer's capability. But you shouldn't use that blade on the turbine. The inter-layer strength won't be enough at that scale. I recommend using your printed blade to make a mold. Then using that to make however many blades you want out of something sturdier, like foam core fiber reinforced epoxy. 😊
the chances are mate i will coat the surface with a layer of cyano acrylic resin
@@ThinkingandTinkeringOkay, so when you do that, consider adding a single layer of fabric to the surface to improve the tensile strength in the z axis of the print. Printed parts do very well under compressive loads, but the tensile strength in the z-axis will always be significantly lower than in the xy-plane. Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing the test of the finished product. I bet you'll get at least 500W. 👍
What would be cool, is an almost life size terminator, when he just came from the future in terminator 2!
that would be cool!
Amazing!
cheers mate
Awesome
yep lol
One thing I never understood about printers - and this goes back to pinwriter ribbon on paper, through bubblejets, and now 3D printers, is why do they go 100% speed into the end of track snd instantly snap backwards to 100% speed? That causes excessive wear as well as wobble. It almost seems stupid that even after 60+ years, we're still doing it wrong. It would seem that you could eliminate wobble by a smoother (e.g. logarithmic) speed reduction at the end, either by slowing down as the edge of print is approached - would need to also decrease feed speed and possibly change heat, which might be more complicated than it's worth - or stop feeding and overshoot to slow down - which might introduce other undesirable whispy cruft. Either way, might take longer. But there's got to be a way to eliminate the wobble. Maybe even an active dampener approach. CLEARLY, the passive dampener a.k.a. big honkin' slab of steel and/or concrete in the base - does nothing to stabilize wobble as we reach about ⅔ to ¾ height. The "rigid" frame doesn't help, either, as the steel still has some flex. Even if we bolted braces to truss again floor, ceiling, walls, to suppress upper frame wobble in all x-y axis, all that kinetic energy would still be sent back to the head, probably to wear out parts faster. I don't know, just speculating how to eliminate wobble to get a cleaner print and a less chintzy head movement than the tired old hard snapping of decades past. There's got to be a better way. Maybe even ditch the single head x-y print model and use 2-4 heads mounted of arms that can travel on a ring, or something... but I bet that'd be fun to manage vibrations. Then again, though each head might be slower at end of run, going in circles might reduce or eliminate end of run, movement might never reach vibration harmonics, and 2-4 heads would print faster. If going into production, I'd also pack dozens of blades in a print, to have multiple simultaneous tests going, with spare parts to quickly repair as we test limits of prototype materials. Not sure if a metal filament with some electromagnetic and thermal annealing might make stronger prototypes, or if I'd just use this to make molds for eventual metal casting, or just convert to CNC milling, or semi-automated carbon fiberhlass, or some other/eco friendly alternative.
Wow can’t wait to see this thing spin up. Am just wondering what the tip speed will be 😂. Any plans to print some VAWT stuff as well?
for sure mate - i just wanted something to test it and stretch it a bit
Another orientation may be better. I would try (without any experience) to lay it on the bottom diagonal for maximize the length.
Someone told me fibers is stronger as wood in the length direction, and weak between the different layers.
As every layer is bigger (when it lay down) the part might cool off too much. You may need to enclose the machine to keep more heat inside and get better binding between layers.
good ideas mate but check out video 2012 too
Impressive potential for large format printing. I doubt that filament will hold together for very long under load. Perhaps needs to be printed horizontally or on an angle.
check out video 2012 mate - it does fine!
Because of the way printers lay down layers, for a turbine blade to keep as much strength as possible and hopefully prevent delamination, you would prefer to print the blades on an incline, with tree supports for stability.
Each layer being longer would mean there's better layer on layer surface to bond with each other, meaning any stresses are spread along the whole join rather than the thin width from printing vertically.
With a small turbine, the stresses won't be so apparent, but with a large blade, I fear the blade would separate where the print layers haven't been perfect.
see video 2012 mate - i have a better way
wow!
oh yeah lol
That is incredible. I wonder if the centrifugal forces will tear the blades apart if you get the same high speeds as the smaller one. It's gotta be worth a try! Looking forward to the generator build for that (In your own time, of course). Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
i am going to give it a try mate and i will be stiffening the blades with a coat of cyano acrylic resin
Sometimes it is better to print longer/taller objects like that blade in a horizontal orientation with supports underneath. Though it did come out pretty nice printed vertically. The other thing is fused filament has sort of has a "grain" to it and may prove to be stronger running lengthwise. Still, quite an impressive print!
cheers mate
Cool.
It is great to see mister Robert smile again. 🙂
I think some G.code modifier to slow the print speed down from certain height layer or progressively slowing it might do the trick.
What was the nozzle diameter again ?
If there is a concern about the strength of the printed PLA part in use as a wind turbine blade, the print could be used as a plug to make a mold for blades constructed of an alternate material.
i stiffen it with cyanoacrylic resin mate - have a look at video 2012 - others have suggest a layer of carbon fibre
Fantastic, really get a sense of scale with you holding the enormous blade! Beautifull first print. I wonder if your slicer can slow the speed at the top range for less vibration?
i will have to check that out mate - cheers
i think pause, gluegun and some sticks halfway up should stabilise the top half, be interesting to see how it would pause and pickup. is the vertical approach strong enough for the blade as it will encounter more torque in the wind. would it fit diagonal and print flat for a stronger print
I suggest You apply an epoxy coating on the blades for some extra strength since they are printed standing up with sparse infill I presume. Layer bonding could be an issue at that size under wind stress. Printing them laying down diagonally on the build plates with supports could be a better choice for the overall strength and print quality. Secondly i you can try to print them like you did vertically but with 1 mm nozzle if elegoo provided you with one. It would be great for stiffness and layer adhesion. And just a wild tough since layer lines with 1 mm nozzle are relatively thick maybe you could get some of that whale fin effect on micro level since you basically have micro bumps all over the tip of the blade
I use a layer of cyano acrylic mate - see video 2012 for details - the result is amazing
Were you going to add the whale fin bumps? Also did you consider the double blades for the large one? Very exciting can't wait to see more and as always thanks for sharing.👍
Hello Robert! ❤
hiya Charlie
I suppose you could incorporate a temp support structure like an outrigger to help prevent excessive vibration? Maybe print the next two next to each other?
Btw that reel looks tiny on that huge frame lol
good idea mate and yes it does lol
Hi Rob, I would like to know if you can make it with an angled tip to cut the noise down, like an airplane winglet. I will make one for my boat. Also how much filament was used or how much did it weigh? André
it used 800 grams of filament mate and yes i did ponder a winglet but left it the same design for a comparison later
Bracing here for:
Estimated print time 7 years, 11 months, 13 days, 4 hours, 52 seconds
Filament used 387.21832 km
lol
Great video ,those blades will be able to push a monster generator ,probably get around 400 watts.
i am hoping for kW mate - ut then i am an optimistic guy lol
👍👍
The extruder shouldn't be tugging on the spool as the x y axis move. Changing the spool location might solve some balance issues
cheers mate
Print " Mini You" 🤗 That blade is bloody dangerous, three of they and you will fly. Is there a plan for a small aeroplane??
Wonder if you built more than one at once you can create supports between the models to help at higher elevations. It is obviously meant for large objects or multiple objects at once and this might show up in the finished product.
Would be really interesting for you to print the whole thing in one go as you can obtain the clearances between items with ease on that size machine?
i am sure it would mate
Print looks great! The USB port look easily 'kickable' can you change where it is located ?
you could but i hate to do chop into a new machine - instead i used a low profile USB
I was thinking about this, I came up with the idea of making some fitments and connecting them with glue and nuts and bolts and washers inset in pockets that you then cover with some sort of putty or epoxy and sand flat. You could also upgrade the extruder to a thicker filament and make more outside walls, this would add rigidity and make prints faster with less wobble using a slower speed, also you need to try a draft wall, using a draft wall really helps maintain tolerances from what ive tried.
cheers mate
@@ThinkingandTinkering I wonder how well they wil hold up, this could be good!
@@ThinkingandTinkering Its also possible to pause the print and and stuff inside, ie a nut or a threaded rod etc, the continue printing.
Thanks Robert, this will be a massive three bladed rotor, will it hold up at that size though? We'll see it for sure.
Thanks 👍💪✌
we are going to try it and see mate!
I want one... By the way you are heroes 😊
Have you considered splitting the model of the turbine blade in half along its length and glueing together, in that way you can print it flat on the bed with longitudinal layers, it will be much stronger and you can get away with fewer walls and less infill?
see video 2012 mate
@@ThinkingandTinkering 2012 watched but I missed the bit that answered my possibly misleading question proposing printing the blades horizontally in two halves....