How to Build a Pole Barn Pt 3 - Setting Posts
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- This is the third in a series on how to build a pole barn or pole garage. This video shows how to notch and prepare the posts and get them set permanent in the ground.
For a complete materials list, plans, and a very cool 3D Sketchup model of this project click the link below.
www.redneckdiy....
At the bottom of that page there's a link that will take you to where you can download this information.
You can get a free version of Trimble Sketchup here:
www.sketchup.com
Excellent work and good job of thoroughly explaining it all. I do have one suggestion for you, when actually putting the posts into the hole, if you drop a 1x4 or 1x6 vertically against the other side of the hole you have something to slide the bottom of the post against to avoid dumping dirt on top of your carefully made foundation. Plus, the post slides to the bottom a LOT easier. Best Regards,
Jim Smith Sr Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
To be honest the only thing I can see wrong is that you have not treated the bottom of your upright poles to above ground level to prevent rot and make them last longer? And with that much space around the poles I would probably throw in some bigger stones to help wedge the poles in place? And just fill in around with the concrete
They’re called bump boards
Man you're an awesome teacher. Excellent videos that are easy to understand. The model was perfect for the visual learners like me so thanks. Great job! Thank you again!
spending the time to get your concrete pads to the same plane is one way to do it... or you could have just dug your holes and poured the concrete pad in the bottom without worrying to much about height. Then just shoot your pad elevations with the laser and cut your post custom to each hole. just saying that making a bunch of pads in the bottom of holes to the same plane seems like a bitch, just to turn around and "adjust" posts up or down to match any pads that didn't quite set to the right height. you have the equipment/tools and knowledge to do it.
Agree totally, but I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Tip; cutting your posts off at bottom and placing in ground sabotages the treatment (breaches the integrity of pressure treatment and voids any warranty from manufacturer).A lot of back and forth with shovel and laser to bring all pads to par, I appreciate the idea but the practical reality in my experience without a laser, just drop em in the holes at whatever depth (within reason) water level (about $15) the bottom of truss level and cut the excess top off above truss rafter. Much simpler and faster but does require cuttiing on a ladder.
Kevin Vesey them one of those super laser levels
Kevin Vesey i
Really appreciate the videos, I'm planning my shop build currently was going back and forth on build styles. Think I'll take this route. Thanks! Very nice job!
This is great. What I like about this guy is he doesn’t claim his way is the only right way. Lots of humility in his presentation. “May not be the best way... this is what I know... what my gut tells me.” Need more folks like this. Subscribed.
set all your corner posts first, then run string all the way around
Question: What would the harm done if you did not cut off extra 4 inches of your posts ? I now you said you want it to be 10 ft tall, but is there a deciding factor why 10'4'' would not work ?
Thanks so much for taking the time to do this series, really makes a regular guy feel like he can do it himself!
I Like the way you work, all around! Easy to understand, even for a techy person to understand. I know the concept isn't new, however it's will be most useful for folks wanting to give a go of it, encouraging, Again I Like.
Thanks for doing this Ive always left inch and a half between posts and string line for sidewalls
im from the south and this dude is country as freaking cornbread
Cormbrea
Mmmmmm ...cornbread....with bacon, cheese, and jalapeño. Damn.
$1000 says the tops of my posts wouldn’t be on the same plane.
Really mad at myself that it took me this long to find your channel. Great stuff.
RocketApplianceMT Thanks! I appreciate the kind words and appreciate you watching.
Mans got a goodness to him ! Thanks guy for sharing your knowledge and time with us. Sounds like an Arkansas or Tennessee accent maybe I'm wrong . Cheers from Missouri..... build on !
Thanks Dean!
I noticed you didn't put anything at the base of the posts to prevent uplift. Did you have any concerns there? Also, will the posts hold up from rot with the concrete poured directly touching the post? No protection in between?
Excellent series Sir. Any thoughts to waterproofing the posts before setting them in concrete? Or maybe treated or redwood posts?
Assuming the posts are pressure treated pine, do you ever coat them with an added layer of a water barrier before putting them into the ground?
I have a 30 year old pole barn with treated posts, none of them are rotted out, of course we don't get much rain here
Most of the rot on poles set in ground occurs in the first six to eight inches from ground level. Most folks setting poles in dirt will tamp until they get near the top of the hole and just loose fill at the top. This leaves a place for water to collect. The pole butts usually don’t rot as no air can get to them.
Different wood treatment methods make a difference too.
CCA-Chromated Copper Arsenate-think green color treated wood. Utility poles (round) treated this way have a 50 year life span.
Pentachlorophenol oil treatment - light tan colored (not dark) utility poles. Long life but tend to shell out. (Outer shell of the pole separates).
Whether you mix in the hole or on a wheel barrow the main thing is use the least amount of water you can. Every unbonded molecule of water is just water. If your ground is soggy mix it in the hole. Great video. You know it's a good series because most everyone is watching the whole series.
I've always wondered the relationship of depth of post to weight of concrete footing when you have some buildings being constructed with posts bolted to metal anchors fixed to concrete.
I would have done it slightly different. I would have put gravel in the hole and used the pole to pack it down because that pole is big and heavy and you would know after packing that it wouldn't settle over time. Then I would pour a little more gravel around the pole and on top of that I would pour the concrete. The reason is that the pole will shrink over time and any water that is trapped between the pole and the concrete could escape out the bottom as long as you don't set the pole in concrete and just set it in the gravel .
haha "It will drive you PLUMB crazy!" Freudian slip!
I think you are doing it right by mixing. I have to go with what quikcrete says. They do the formulating and the strength testing of their products and they are specific in what they recommend. Mix it actually mix it before you pour. Good video I had to subscribe to your channel after watching a couple of episodes. Doug
It's like building it and knowing what I'm doing. I like know what I'm going to do .(notches . I like that NOTCHED; but what about the horizontal bracing every verticle2ft for strength and siding on the outside? Won't those notched 1.5 inches or otherwise flush w/6 x6 at the top vrs horizontal bracing out 1.5 inches along the sides ?
Wear eye protection when using a circular saw......chips fly everywhere.
What? Sorry forgot the hearing protection.
Ditto!!!!! Love the videos so far, but man please wear eye protection!,,
Great video! You're the carpenter uncle I never had - so thanks for passing your knowledge on to me.
timventura Thanks for the kind words and encouragement!
Just curious, I was told by my experienced construction buddy to put rebar or heavy nails crosswise in the bottom of the pole to secure it to the concrete.. Also what kind of concrete did you use?
as long as painted with rubberized paint your right and all cuts are painted. he is using gravel mix its pea gravel for sidewalks patios and curbs
3:18 to 3:21 Thats what she said. Sorry. Couldn't resist. Great video.
One more thing, you’re fortunate. You live in a beautiful part of our country.
Watching this about halfway through, wondering if you checked the actual length of the posts or you're trusting the lumbermill to cut them exactly 14'
Not sure if it’s better or not, but people who notch seem to think it’s an improvement. On the other hand, I’ve noticed over the years that bridges, trucks, light standards, etc., all bolted together, usually with no notches or additional support. I’ve notched a lot of posts both standing and laying down, either way it’s a pain. I wonder if there is a engineering spec source for comparing strength?
Placing wood columns in the ground without any kind of footing pad is like trying to walk on three foot of snow without snow shoes. There is a product called FootingPad which is a composite material that replaces a concrete hockey puck and is code compliant. Pouring concrete around the column can lead to rotting of the column. You would be better off using gravel compacted in six inch lifts. Crushed stone could be used in place of the footingpad.
Really enjoying your videos. My son & I are getting ready to build a 64 by 32 foot pole barn in a few months. We'll be watching all your videos many many times. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, I'm looking forward to the rest of this series. I built a fence around my pasture last summer and notice that many of the techniques I used in squaring it up and setting the posts, you did here as well. I found your series because I'm planning to build a pole barn next summer for hay storage/livestock protection. I do have a question for you though. I noticed when you poured your holes, that you brought the concrete all the way to the top. I did that as well with the posts of my fence when I first started working on it. Then I read somewhere that you are supposed to pour to below grade, then back fill the rest of the whole with dirt to help prevent rotting of the posts. I would have guessed the opposite would be true. But, I noticed that the concrete where I poured all the way to the top, began cracking. For the rest of my posts, I poured to within 6" or so of the top of grade. The concrete in those holes didn't crack. Just curious if you have experienced anything with that.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I really appreciate it. Sounds like you have another summer filled with hard work ahead of you! I made the mistake of trying to do this over winter and progress has been tough to make. I finally have the roof panels on and I'll have a couple more videos out soon. You can go to my Google+ page and see some pics. There's a link on my main channel page.
I think you may have pointed out something to me that I did not know. I have not known about backfilling with dirt so I need to do some research on that. The good news it that although I poured concrete to the top of the holes, it's not all the way up to grade. I still have to come in and raise the floor up a little bit with some fill dirt so I can still cover the tops of the holes with dirt if I need to. Thanks for pointing this out and sharing this tip.
Good luck on your project and lemme know how it goes. I'd like to see some pics of your progress.
It makes sense that if water can get between the post and concrete that the concrete will crack when the water freezes, if it is below ground far enough it will not freeze therefore it will not crack.
Very good man, just bought 8 Acres an old Massey tractor, and getting ready to build my own pole barn1
+paxtonspeed Yes!!!! Thanks for watching!
Hey I loved the videos. I pretty much learned a lot. I am a construction engineer in the military and will be overseeing a pole barn being built pretty soon. I have two questions to ask. It will possibly be 36-39 degrees during the day. At night it will get as low as 33 degrees. I am going to be digging 3 ft down to get pass the frost line. Do you think I would have a problem? We are constructing a pole barn with a 28 laminated 6x6 columns. The front of it is going to be 18 ft and the rear is going to be 12 ft similar to a lean-too. I liked your method using the laser level. Will you still be able to get the post plane and level with two different column heights 12 ft and 18 ft?
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciated the compliments! I'm not sure exactly what you are asking about the depth of your holes. If you are asking me if three feet is deep enough then I can't answer that. If you are in GA then yes. If you are in PA then probably not. Does that make sense? It really depends on your location. If you are asking if you can pour concrete in 36 degree weather then yes you can but you should keep it covered and warn until it sets. You can also mix it with warm water and mix it a little thick. I poured some of mine in about that temp and it turned out fine. I covered in with dirt and foam insulation.
Yes, you could get your the top of the posts level even if they are different lengths. The same concept applies. You will just have to cut more off the bottom. Does that makes sense? Not sure if I answered your questions or not. Let me know if I've made it clear as mud and I'll try again. Good luck!
I have got several buildings using notched 6x6 but if building has to pass inspection you can not notch poles. Notched post do not meet building code.
If you use the proper bolts and hardware it will last longer than the wood your building with.🧑🔧
I'd cut the 4" off of the top so as not to remove the pressure treatment on the end that's under ground. Not that it's a serious concern, just a little added protection. Great video though.
Mark Davis the whole board is treated ?
The only thing I've been told is it's best to coat the post with something like tar because the acid in the concrete will mes with the wood. Just saying.
Thanks for the video series, really enough detail to learn something. Especially the squaring process and leveling with uneven ground.
Thanks for watching. Glad you got something out of the videos!
Notched posts are structurally more sound as far as stabilizing the roof.
So as long the lumber is pressure treated it’s ok to sit it in concrete? I could’ve sworn I was told it’s not recommended due to severe damage to post over time
This was extremely helpful. Thank you.
Damned good video, Feddie. You have a very good way of explaining the process. Maybe you can show your CNC plasma cutter sometime?
FYI, I lived in Jackson for grade school through high school and went to Tennessee Tech (Cookeville) in electrical engineering. Am in Southern California now, but would LOVE to see your place sometime.
Am trying to work toward getting a chance to do what YOU are in retirement. Take care and good job.
Who thumbs down this crap? This guy is awesome... born and raised in East TN.... accent is very familiar.
Hello me and my girlfriend are possibly going to build a 32x40 pole barn with a small loft to live in costa rica.
We both don't have any experience in wood working and construction. I wonder where we can find plans with the following things :
How thick the poles must be and how much the spacing is? What are the rules for this, seems i can't find it ..
Which truses will be needed for the loft if we want it to be 13ft x 32ft
that 5 foot mark reference is ingenious! great tips.
Are your posts pressure treated? They don't look like it. Just wondering if that is necessary. I am milling my own posts and am very interested in using your method.
Well one small detail about the concrete I've heard is that it is pretty important to put enough of it so that you can make slopes away from the pole so that water cant collect around the wood.
+He Ka Great tip. Thanks for sharing!
All your videos are great addicted to them but on a completely unrelated note... what is that glowing behind you at 5.36 to the right of your head in the trees...? Can't make it out? Thanks for all the awesome content from the UK
You wouldn't say which way is the right way, but I will. Coming from thirty years of remodeling and renovation work. Your way is the right way. Never, never, never depend on a fastener to carry a load.
Great video by the way! Very helpful. Great advice! I think for me - the more input from all the videos gives me more to think about how best to do, in my situation. My area is on a slope, rocky, & wet.
Next time, don't use a laser.
Get a long clear plastic tube and pour water in it until it gets to the height you want. Lift both ends, and the water will be LEVEL always. Statrt at the high point and you will have all 4 marks level ... without fail.
We use clear palstic tubing to level aircraft when resotring them or doing a weight and balance for legal flight.
Good video!
Hello, i am planning to build a pole barn / hay barn, i would like to use european larch logs as posts, can i put them directly to the ground when i put a liquid plastic or asphalt on the bottom part of the posts which will be in the ground 4 feet deep. What do you think about that, i have an acidic soil, some of my friend suggesting building a concrete footings instead. Will that post last 30-40 years in that ground treated like that. 30-35cm or 1 foot in diameter posts. bark will be removed, rest of the post will be painted with regular wood protecting paint. Thank you for answer and for posting this tutorial
In the state of Michigan inspectors don't want to see you pouring concrete in the hole around the post. Reason being is the lime in the concrete will knock heads with the copper in the treated chemicals and eventually rot the post. Now this might take years to happen but nonetheless will. What they want is nail a 2x4 or 2x6 around all 4 sides maybe a foot tall is all at the bottom of the post and just fill it in with sand. Compact it as you go. That helps with the uplift as well by doing that. Other than that good video.
Also I like dropping post in then chainsawing excess off the top after I put rafters up. But that's why your stuff probably looks a lot better than mine lol
This is the first time that I've seen one of your videos and I liked it. Very good explanation of your plan. May God Bless you and your family.
Just my way... have used sand and/or gravel as backfill in post holes. Gives me a bit more wiggle room at the tops to square m all up.
GREAT JOB EXPLAINING THE PROCESS OF SQUARING A STRUCTURE. I LIKE USING A WATER LEVEL TO FINALIZE THE LENGTH OF MY POST.
Concrete experts say to mix it that's why when you order concrete for big jobs it comes premixed unless not possible (maybe it will set before it gets there) and even then the next truck mixes on site before actual delivery.
Notching or letting-in for your top band is absolutely the right way to go. Especially if you live in a part of the country where snow load is a factor. People who rely on bolts for their safety are frequently disappointed.
It is a pleasure watching your videos and gaining from thought pointers. Thank you
Pouring the concrete in dry is a crap shoot and not worth the risk,
Big help. Getting ready to build a pole tractor shed. Never built anything significant on my own. I appreciate your videos.
“… not that panicky kind of math.” That’s hilarious, thank you. 😊
You should sing country music , you have the voice !
rednecktalkshow Ha! I'm more than a little off key! Thanks for watching.
I always pour concrete wet/mixed. I have had bad luck not getting dry mix to cure right or pack well.
If you want you can learn from woodprix scripts how to make it yourself.
How did he secure the girth boards in part 4?
How did he secure the girth boards in part 4?
How far did you space the bays? Thinking of doing 3 12’ bays.
Your not worried about the posts rotting out in the concrete
Greetings from Wales in the UK. I have really enjoyed your videos so far in the building of this barn. I have to rebuild mine on the Farm here next Summer, so this is just great. I am happy to see that your approach is similar to mine. Whatever way you decide to do something (setting the posts in concrete for example) there is always some 'expert' who is happy to tell you that's not the way to do it. Well the whole thing looks great to me, and I'm going to do it your way ! looking forward to watching the rest of the series. Thanks for posting. Steve.
I learned alot from my dad. Dad would also use concrete blocks broke in two and he would put them in the holes
We built our 80 by 40 foot pole barn 12 years ago the same way u did.Now were finding out the poles are starting to rot out,The concrete wicks the moisture and keeps the wood from drying out.all of our posts have to be cut 4 inches above ground level and concrete peirs have to be poured under the poles.And I've have talked to many people with the same problem.PEOPLE DONT BURY YOUR POLES IN THE GROUND
What kind of treatment did your poles have? We just found a place that treats lumber better than home Depot or the other lumber yards. Hoping ours holds up. A big concern of mine too. Using .60 CCA treated.
If the bottom of that post is going to be exposed to the weather you should have built up that concrete and tapered it. So water would not set around the post. That would cause rot. Treated post or not.
So what's the consensus? Wet or Dry concrete
Is there any more satisfying sound than concrete sliding off a shovel?
Super job, Feddy. Thanks for sharing with us.
Excellent, Great Content and Top Notch Presentation, very easy and enjoyable to listen to.
Much More Enjoyable than watching PBS ;-)
TriggerShims Wow, thanks for the kind words. I appreciate you watching!
Thank you sir. Great info, great explanations
Stodoys plans has a lot of plans to choose from.
Until the devil comes back? Would that be the "second coming"? Lol
GRRRREAT Video, really enjoy your down to earth explanation and better yet the reason why you do things your Way. BTW, I Have not seen any barns that are still up for over 50 years where they used dry cement. hehehe looking forward for the next video. Thanks....
Thanks for watching and for the great compliments! I appreciate it. My vids are long and I cover a lot of detail but I really try to take the mystery out of this stuff, you know. I think most folks with a little skill and a lot of common sense can do these projects. I appreciate your vote of confidence on mixing concrete. It's all I've ever known to do. The weather has made it tough to make progress but I am going to try to set trusses later this week. Stay tuned!
Very nice set of videos on building your project. I’m planning to build a 36’x48’ Post building that will serve as a small shop, two horse stalls and a tack room. We are in the very northwest corner of Washington State and the building sight is rite close to the beach. Here on the NW Coast we get a lot of weather, a lot of wind and over 10 feet (124”+) of rain every year. Lots of rain… With our back to the rain forest and we are facing the Pacific Ocean I'm not very sure on setting the 6x6 PT posts in the ground and have been contemplating using something like “Simpson LCB66R Column Base galvanized anchors” set in concrete. On the other hand I could set them in concrete and make sure I pay attention to the grade and maybe 24” overhang on my roofing to try to divert rain water. The other idea I’ve heard is to set the posts in ¾” gravel for drainage. Because my land is on an Indian Reservation I have no building codes to go by, however I want to build this building to last.
Do you have any ideas on my situation??
Jim Woods Thanks for watching, Jim. I really would not know enough about the Pacific NW to offer a valuable opinion. I would not be as worried about the rain as I would how your soil behaved. I'd just make friends with a builder and find out how they approach pouring footers, etc. That might give you some insight. Good luck!
Bla bla bla bla... please Just do it !!!!
This should be on DIY channel this is great
Only down side is your not as cute as Nicole Curtis =) Rehab additc
Walt Lars Ha! Yeah, I'd have to agree. I'd be happy with a guest appearance with her......
Your explynation of what your doing is great I have learned a lot more than being a TOH/PBS HGTV &DIY Channels You get into the details thatbis not covered in 24 or 47 min shows 24/47 is what a 30/60 time slot gets You after comericals
I look forward to seeing more like this
The models allows a person to visilize what is happening by removeing all the clutter that is present in a long enough to take the scene like setting the truses
I like your methods.
Like the videos. Especially like what you say about "I don't know how other people do it BUT this is how I'm going to do it." Always more than one way to achieve the same end result. Wish we didn't have such rocky ground here. Every post hole I've dug has been with shovel and post hole digger...I'm darn good at it too! Great job, nice looking place!
+Jessie Winegeart Really appreciate the encouragement, Jessie. Thanks for watching!
We know your way is the way lol good work
Hey Feddie, I really enjoyed your Pole Barn segment. Great Job!! Are you going to show your upto date video on the pole barn? Thanks Feddie!
Thanks for watching. If the weather holds I am going to get the roof on this weekend and I'll have a new video out soon after that. Stay tuned….
Finally someone who notched the top of the pole ! Looks like the best way to me,are you for hire
Notched pole does not meet code. Yes i do it some times if not being inspected.
@@cliffclark6441 I ended up notching one side had to truss were 1.5 Inch too short still passed inspection tho thanks great video
Had a quick question. Obviously I am watching because I too will be doing this summer. I have talked to many folks and seems like everyone has a different opinion. The enemy of wood is not only water, but water with air. Now I have heard tell that Concrete will hold water, and hold it against your post. Not certain how the air would get to it, but the theory is that this is a recipe for early rot. I’ve been told to use crushed stone so water can flow away. Seems to me like that would allow water to flow IN, and I can certainly see air pockets in this method. Others have said just use dirt. The theory goes that dirt will allow water to wick away, but will also prevent much of the air from getting to the pole and help prolong the poles life. Others have told me about this really neat foam made specifically for putting poles in the ground, but I don't have any idea where Id get that. Thoughts? Obviously you went with cement. Would you still do the same today? Just wondering what your take on it was.
Thanks for the comment. You know, I really don't know how to decipher this debate because I have heard both schools of thought too. Like you, I think both sides have merit and at the same time, both sides make no sense at all to me. Not trying to cop out on the answer because I really don't know. My thinking is that a treated post is made for ground contact and that means moisture regardless.
Think about it this way. Do you have a deck on your house? Has it been there for years and years? Bet the posts are set in concrete. These barns won't last forever but hopefully I will pay enough attention to it that signs of deterioration will be noticed early on and I can address them right away. There are ways to repair/replace a rotting post. Not easy or fun, but it can be done and it's not rocket science. Wish I could tell you a definite answer but I don't have it either. Over the years I have seen it done both ways, but I have seen it more often with concrete casings. Hope that helps a little.
Fred Miller
I'm just a retired electrician and I am thinking about building a post-frame house to live in, but what disturbs me about your pole barn is putting untreated posts into concrete. Concrete is not water proof and it seems to me that those post would rot in about 5 or 6 years. Whats wrong with using pressure treated pine?
p.s. I like your double-checking/measure twice, cut once approach!
+Fred MILLER Thanks for watching, Fred. I really appreciate it. Those posts are treated lumber. I agree that I would not use anything other than pressure treated posts that are made for ground contact. Good luck on your project and lemme know how it turns out!
Enjoy your videos. I'm getting ready to build a 40 x72. I've already built a 24x36. I was alway told here in Ore. anyway that we use pressure treated poles and not to concrete them in but just pack them in with 3/4 - what are your thoughts.
Randy J
That seems to be the new thought in our area too. I believe it stems from the fact that in some areas the pressure treating isn't as good as other areas due to regulations on the chemicals used. I could be wrong that that is how it was explained to me.
I really enjoyed your videos. I'm retaining in the spring and I really need a shop. I did a 24/36 as I told you I was a lot younger then. I hope I'm not bite ing off more than I can chew with a 40/72, I will surely be getting some help.
Randy Johnson That's gonna be a nice shop. Lemme know how it goes and send me some pics along the way.
Randy Johnson Thanks for watching, Randy. There are a lot of schools of thought on that. I don't know that there is a "best" way to go. I just know I've always seen them in concrete. That's really all I know.
Should a person use gravel compacted also before concrete in the holes? Also the post will rot with concrete due to lime exposure. I use roofing felt to protect the wood.
Did you have help with setting the posts? I am doing a polebarn project and looks like I will be doing most of the work by myself. Great video by the way..thank you for sharing!
I had one of my boys help me.
I am to the understanding that a person should leave the bottom of the post open, so the water can flow down & not get trapped in with the encapsulated post. Just a thought. Here where I live, (in Rockport TX.) I would likely not even use concrete, I'd just go down 5 feet or so, the sand would be as firm as concrete soon enough. The telephone/electrical poles that are around 35 feet tall are only in the ground 5 feet or less here, & they use nothing in the hole but the sand they took out of it. Now I know we might consider lift from the wind, & if I thought I needed to I might pin the poles in the ground with some concrete without having the concrete cover the bottom of the pole. But I think the tin would rip off before the poles pulled up. Thanks for the videos.
+VerifyVeracity Thanks for watching, Verify. Your comments are great and they may help others form some of their own ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Nicely done. I like your simple method even with the M word Math. Makes things work very well. Thanks. John in Pensacola, Fl.
john cocking Thanks. I appreciate you watching!
I'm lovin you're videos. We are going to build a 40x60. This is going to help me big time. Thank you..
Gordon Mercer Thanks! Lemme know how yours turns out.