Cousin showed me a trick Buy a cheap Oscillating blade cutter, then make a paint pot mount on one of the blades. We used thermoplastic but any method would work. Will shake any paint even and now you also have an Oscillating cutter. We even used it, a ball bearing, and some thinner to revive dryor sludgy pots.
You got me into oil painting. I have the oils here with the same brand, I just need to start painting. Waiting for a day where I am free from responsibilities so I can enjoy the process haha. Awesome work as always. Please keep this series up. I've watched all. You make it sound so simple yet looks great. Just my style!
Olive drab by vallejo is far better then castellian green, good coverage, nice base coat green. Cons, not as vibrant Pros, preffect base for highlighting
Excellent tutorial. Thank you. It’s been my experience that Castellan Green gives good coverage after two coats but that may have to do with me painting the green over a black primer.
I paint my Cadians in the basic bitch Cadian 8th color scheme. I've never seen Castellan Green that thin. That is my armor basecoat and I use it on vehicles too. In fact, Castellan Green is normally so thick, I've found myself putting in lahmian medium straight into the pot and shaking it up with mixing balls. You definitely got a lemon on that pot, mate
Oh yes! I'm extremely happy to watch this tutorial while in lockdown, I was going crazy and painting my 30 something cadians is a perfect waste of time, great quick video! My Castellan green is actually quite thick but it is a few years old now, needs heavy thinning down. For the leather, do you think a black ink would give the same effect as brown? I'm trying to replicate the box art colors but in a more realistic look like this.
thanks you for this great tutorial you have struck a great balance between the brilliantly grimdark oil paint subtractive technique and efficient (for army) "speed" painting. my singular nit-pick is not warning to use white spirits in well ventilated area as they can be a bit problematic. However overall I want to express my thanks for making a "grimdark video I can understand and even imagine following myself.
I don’t use an airbrush… yet… (relatively newly returned to this hobby in a “slightly” more serious way than I was when I was about 13 😂) When applying the witch flesh first stage, I find it a bit of a struggle to get the coverage in even 2 coats… is this to be expected as it’s a “layer” paint?
Effectively this was one of the reasons I give up with GW's colours (+ the cost), Valleijo's ones are more economical, f.e. VGC Cayman Green it's a perfect match for Castellan Green and has a better coverage
Just bought an imperial guard combat patrol and this is the scheme I’m going with. The finished product looks amazing. Did you do any highlights to the model? It looks like there are subtle highlights, but that might just be because the oil was removed from the edges during the qtip stage. You should revisit this tutorial with the new guard models!
Vis a vis the Castellan green. Did you stir the pot with a stick or something similar to determine if the pigment had settled in the bottom of the pot? I am sure if you took that back to the shop you bought it from they would replace it because generally GW base paints do not look like that. If you have not yet, use some kind of probe to see what the paint is like at the bottom of the pot. I have some metal probes that wipe nice and clean for such things.
I really like the effect you've achieved here. I'm planning on running an Only War campaign for my friends sometime soon, and I wanted to use minis for the combats. I was going to run them through the events of OG Dawn of War on Tartarus, and I'm trying to match the 37th Imperial Guard/ Tartarus PDF uniforms. The armor and skin tones here match almost perfectly, although I might add some grey scratches on the flak armor. I'll have to variate for the camo fatigues though.
Odourless spirits is a better option over straight white spirit. Less headache inducing. Also a major step is to varnish prior to the oil wash. It helps seal the acrylic layer and helps the capillary action of the oils. Great finish on this one though, will make for an awesome looking force
Have you ever done a gloss varnish prior to the oil wash to protect the acrylics? This is similar to AK streaking grime but I like the ability to vary the tone with different oils as you did here. Nice job.
Don’t know if you will see this, but when do you varnish the miniature after painting them with oil? And will any varnish do? I’m pretty new to miniatures and painting in general.
I usually varnish after an oil step, using an airbrush I use this varnish: Windsor and Newton Matt Varnish (tinyurl.com/5amakvrf) Its usually used for varnishing canvas paintings but works fine for miniatures too, and there is ton of it!
Fantastic tutorial! What about doing a reverse colour scheme? Ie. White armor, green fatigues? Would you do the same process but instead paint the trousers green instead of the armor?
Would you get the same effect using creed ammo contrast paint instead of the castellen green base paint? Also just want to add this is by far the best Astra Militarum paint scheme I've seen! Much better than the vanilla bright version.
No the first passes are always dry, if you find its not picking up as much as you want go back over again with another dry one, I find white spirit will just completely strip it all.
@@JohnBrown-bp4do Not good. Tried varnish and longer drying time. Didnt help. :/ However i used a plant-based non-toxic thinner, might have had something to do with it.
Thats not quick at all, sorry. Your guardsmen are looking good but mine look similar and I paint them twice as quickly just by priming them in castellan green
Your video is a little disingenuous. There is no way you painted on 5 layers of base coat, let it dry, then metalics and let it dry, then oils and let it dry and then wipe it off with a cotton wool bud and then fleck oils on again, touch up and then coat with varnish, all in under an hour.
My other comment, which seems superfluous now is, you ever review a video and try to separate the technique from the colour scheme? I find myself doing this because, regardless of why colours are chosen, it is the artist's hobby and personal preference and the lore be damned. However, the second you introduced oils the title speed paint was a misnomer. You can get the same finish on the model with shades like Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade and Sepia Wash. No spirits required, no wiping and no need to protect the delicate oil paint job with varnish. Though I would recommend it if you are dealing with metal figures.
You definitely got a bad paint. My Castellan green is thick as mud
Regarding the Castellan Green. Stir it with a stick and then shake the hell out of it. It should cover like a dream, even if it's a green.
Cousin showed me a trick
Buy a cheap Oscillating blade cutter, then make a paint pot mount on one of the blades. We used thermoplastic but any method would work.
Will shake any paint even and now you also have an Oscillating cutter. We even used it, a ball bearing, and some thinner to revive dryor sludgy pots.
You got me into oil painting. I have the oils here with the same brand, I just need to start painting. Waiting for a day where I am free from responsibilities so I can enjoy the process haha. Awesome work as always. Please keep this series up. I've watched all. You make it sound so simple yet looks great. Just my style!
I think this is the best Astra Militarum painting tutorial. Great job man! I was wondering does waaagh! flesh work just as fine as castellan green?
Thanks! And yeah I'd think any green would suffice as long as its desaturated
@@PaintbyMinis Thanks man! Keep up the great work :)
Olive drab by vallejo is far better then castellian green, good coverage, nice base coat green. Cons, not as vibrant
Pros, preffect base for highlighting
Thank you for the oil tutorial
You have a bad pot of castellen green, I usually have to thin mine
Looks great! Do you have video like this for Kasrkin? It will be greatwith your style
One very good color for painting Cadians is the Vallejo Model Color German Camouflage Green, has very good coverage for the armor
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
It’s been my experience that Castellan Green gives good coverage after two coats but that may have to do with me painting the green over a black primer.
Good to know! Had a feeling the light undercoat might have been a factor!
castellan green is frustratingly poor at covering. same with gal vorbak red...
You got a bad pot. TBH, my Castellan Green is way too thick and I have to thin it a lot or it gunks up the models.
Quick and approachable 👍
How would you scale this up to vehicles though ? Just do the same thing ? lol.
I paint my Cadians in the basic bitch Cadian 8th color scheme. I've never seen Castellan Green that thin. That is my armor basecoat and I use it on vehicles too. In fact, Castellan Green is normally so thick, I've found myself putting in lahmian medium straight into the pot and shaking it up with mixing balls. You definitely got a lemon on that pot, mate
Yeah I got very easy coverage (1 coat) over dark grey, there is defo something up with that pot, it doesnt look right.
Oh yes! I'm extremely happy to watch this tutorial while in lockdown, I was going crazy and painting my 30 something cadians is a perfect waste of time, great quick video!
My Castellan green is actually quite thick but it is a few years old now, needs heavy thinning down. For the leather, do you think a black ink would give the same effect as brown? I'm trying to replicate the box art colors but in a more realistic look like this.
Yeah I can imagine a black ink or the black contrast paint would work just as well, if you give it a go I'd love to hear how it went!
Just unlucky with the green
thanks you for this great tutorial you have struck a great balance between the brilliantly grimdark oil paint subtractive technique and efficient (for army) "speed" painting. my singular nit-pick is not warning to use white spirits in well ventilated area as they can be a bit problematic. However overall I want to express my thanks for making a "grimdark video I can understand and even imagine following myself.
I don’t use an airbrush… yet… (relatively newly returned to this hobby in a “slightly” more serious way than I was when I was about 13 😂) When applying the witch flesh first stage, I find it a bit of a struggle to get the coverage in even 2 coats… is this to be expected as it’s a “layer” paint?
Yeah thats to be expected especially after a dark primer, may take a few more thin coats
Effectively this was one of the reasons I give up with GW's colours (+ the cost), Valleijo's ones are more economical, f.e. VGC Cayman Green it's a perfect match for Castellan Green and has a better coverage
Thanks for the heads up!
How well does this work with red & yellow?
That green is broken my one is one coat and done
Awesome tutorial, I will definitly give oil paints a try with the help of your video's. Keep it up
You gonna be doing any more Imperial Guard man? Would be awesome to see say a grimdark leman russ.
I hadn't planned on it in the near future but may get around to it one day!
YES!!!
Accessible, informative and achievable. Keep making, keep posting. Liked and subscribed.
Really good helped me put a lot thanks
Just bought an imperial guard combat patrol and this is the scheme I’m going with. The finished product looks amazing. Did you do any highlights to the model? It looks like there are subtle highlights, but that might just be because the oil was removed from the edges during the qtip stage. You should revisit this tutorial with the new guard models!
Supercool, really, supercool.
I'm gonna order oils now
I doubt you'll see this but I found the exact same issue with my Castellan green being super thin - it made painting my tanks quite a chore.
So I ended up giving mine a stir with an old brush for a good long while, this seemed to help!
@@PaintbyMinis thanks for the advice, I'll definitely give that a try!
Vis a vis the Castellan green. Did you stir the pot with a stick or something similar to determine if the pigment had settled in the bottom of the pot? I am sure if you took that back to the shop you bought it from they would replace it because generally GW base paints do not look like that. If you have not yet, use some kind of probe to see what the paint is like at the bottom of the pot. I have some metal probes that wipe nice and clean for such things.
I really like the effect you've achieved here. I'm planning on running an Only War campaign for my friends sometime soon, and I wanted to use minis for the combats. I was going to run them through the events of OG Dawn of War on Tartarus, and I'm trying to match the 37th Imperial Guard/ Tartarus PDF uniforms. The armor and skin tones here match almost perfectly, although I might add some grey scratches on the flak armor. I'll have to variate for the camo fatigues though.
Was the burnt umber ink dilluted before applying in the leather parts?
Nope straight from the pot
@@PaintbyMinis thanks bro. Miniature looked great. Definitely gonna try it out.
Would a nuln oil wash suffice? Instead of the actual oils you've used?
I think a Nulm Oil or Agrax would look great too, might not look as grimy as the oils but will still look good
@@PaintbyMinis cool. Thanks for the reply 👍🏼
Anyone else wish the Cadians threw their grenades with their left hand, and kept their right hand on the trigger of their lasrifle?
Dude, that looks great. Guess I need to break down and give oils a go.
Odourless spirits is a better option over straight white spirit. Less headache inducing.
Also a major step is to varnish prior to the oil wash. It helps seal the acrylic layer and helps the capillary action of the oils. Great finish on this one though, will make for an awesome looking force
Have you ever done a gloss varnish prior to the oil wash to protect the acrylics? This is similar to AK streaking grime but I like the ability to vary the tone with different oils as you did here. Nice job.
Thank you so much for this, I’ll be trying it this weekend! I kind of want to cry now though, I want to re-paint my whole Cadian army like this 😭😭
Don’t know if you will see this, but when do you varnish the miniature after painting them with oil? And will any varnish do? I’m pretty new to miniatures and painting in general.
I usually varnish after an oil step, using an airbrush I use this varnish: Windsor and Newton Matt Varnish (tinyurl.com/5amakvrf)
Its usually used for varnishing canvas paintings but works fine for miniatures too, and there is ton of it!
When would you put a decal on ?
Decals should go on before the oil stages
If you were to apply decals on the shoulder pads, at what point would you do that? Or does this style need freehand or no decals at all?
Decals would work fine, I would add them once you've finished the base coats, before varnishing and the oil step
Totally gonna try this on a whole new IG army! Wish me luck! 😁
Im about 60 Guardsmen into this paintscheme, i'm loving it!
instead of using white spirit,could i use mineral spirit from Gamsol for instance?
Yeah I use mineral spirits myself and work a charm!
Fantastic tutorial! What about doing a reverse colour scheme? Ie. White armor, green fatigues? Would you do the same process but instead paint the trousers green instead of the armor?
Yeah cant see why that wouldn't work!
Would you get the same effect using creed ammo contrast paint instead of the castellen green base paint?
Also just want to add this is by far the best Astra Militarum paint scheme I've seen! Much better than the vanilla bright version.
Thanks! I can't see why the contrast paint wouldn't work, might look a bit patchy with just 1 coat but if you do 2 it should look the same!
@@PaintbyMinis thanks for the reply! I much prefer painting using contrast paints so hopefully will look the same:)
for the oil wash part. Couldn't you use a Tamiya Black or Brown Panel wash? Instead of buying the oils?
Can't say for sure as I've never used the Tamiya panel washes, if they are oil based then imagine it would be fine!
@@PaintbyMinis Alright thank you, also will you do a video on how to paint Cadia tanks and armor? Maybe even the flag bearers or weapon teams.
Excellent video .
when you use the cue tips,do u put white spirit on it?
No the first passes are always dry, if you find its not picking up as much as you want go back over again with another dry one, I find white spirit will just completely strip it all.
I've tried the tutorial but when it comes to removing some of the oilwash the colour under the wash gets smeared out :(
If the acrylic layers are getting rubbed off I'd recommend sealing them with a matt varnish or alternatively leave the acrylics to dry overnight
@@PaintbyMinis Alright! I'll try both methods. Thanks!
@@Ivarinovic Hey how did it turn out?
@@JohnBrown-bp4do Not good. Tried varnish and longer drying time. Didnt help. :/ However i used a plant-based non-toxic thinner, might have had something to do with it.
@@Ivarinovic Hey thank you. I'm new to this hobby and needed a little more perspective from more than just videos.
Thats not quick at all, sorry. Your guardsmen are looking good but mine look similar and I paint them twice as quickly just by priming them in castellan green
Your video is a little disingenuous. There is no way you painted on 5 layers of base coat, let it dry, then metalics and let it dry, then oils and let it dry and then wipe it off with a cotton wool bud and then fleck oils on again, touch up and then coat with varnish, all in under an hour.
My other comment, which seems superfluous now is, you ever review a video and try to separate the technique from the colour scheme? I find myself doing this because, regardless of why colours are chosen, it is the artist's hobby and personal preference and the lore be damned. However, the second you introduced oils the title speed paint was a misnomer. You can get the same finish on the model with shades like Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade and Sepia Wash. No spirits required, no wiping and no need to protect the delicate oil paint job with varnish. Though I would recommend it if you are dealing with metal figures.
This is very cool but I don't think you can call it "speed painting". Great work nonetheless